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cornering (turning) traction.
TEMPERATURE
The temperature grades are AA (the highest), A, B, and C, representing the tire's resistance to the generation of heat
and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a specified indoor laboratory test wheel.
Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive
temperature can lead to sudden tire failure. The grade C corresponds to a minimum level of performance that all
passenger car tires must meet under the Federal Motor Safety Standard No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher
levels of performance on the laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by law.
WARNING!
The temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is properly inflated and not overloaded. Excessive
speed, under-inflation, or excessive loading, either separately or in combination, can cause heat buildup and possible
tire failure.
pg. 96 Changing wheels
Insert flat end of lug wrench and turn/pull straight out
Changing wheels
The spare wheel is located under the carpet on the trunk floor. The jack and crank are secured in the wheel recess.
There are two jack attachment points on each side of the car.
To change a wheel:
Engage the parking brake.
Put the gear selector in (P)ark.
Remove the wheel cap (where applicable) using the lug wrench in the tool kit.
With the car still on the ground, use the lug wrench to loosen the wheel bolts 1/2 1 turn by exerting downward
pressure. Turn the bolts counterclockwise to loosen.
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Loosen wheel bolts
Position the jack on the bar in the attachment (A in the illustration below) and crank while simultaneously guiding
the base of the jack to the ground. The base of the jack must be flat on a level, firm, non-slippery surface. Before
raising the car, check that the jack is still correctly positioned in the attachment.
Raise the vehicle until the wheel to be changed is lifted off the ground.
Unscrew the wheel bolts completely and carefully remove the wheel so as not to damage the thread on the studs.
Attaching the jack
NOTE: To avoid excessive wear and the necessity of rebalancing, mark and reinstall wheels in the same location and
position as before removal. To lessen the chance of imbalance, each wheel hub is equipped with a guide stud to ensure
that a removed wheel can be reinstalled in its original position (as when changing over to winter tires/wheels).
pg. 97 Changing wheels
Correct tightening order for wheel bolts
Installing the wheel
Clean the contact surfaces on the wheel and hub.
Lift the wheel and place it on the hub. Make sure that you align the wheel with the guide stud on the wheel hub prior
to installation.
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Install the wheel bolts and tighten handtight. use the lug wrench, tighten crosswise(see illustration above) until all
bolts are snug.
Lower the vehicle to the ground and alternately tighten the bolts crosswise to 100 ft. lbs. (136 Nm).
Install the wheel cap (where applicable).
WARNING!
The jack must correctly engage the bar in the jack attachment (A). The car's weight must not rest on the jack
attachment (B). See illustration on page 96
.
Be sure the jack is on a firm, level, non-slippery surface.
Never allow any part of your body to be extended under a car supported by a jack.
Use the jack intended for the car when replacing a wheel. For any other job, use stands to support the side of the
car being worked on.
Apply the parking brake and put the gear selector in the (P)ark position.
Block the wheels standing on the ground, use rigid wooden blocks or large stones.
The jack should be kept well-greased.
CAUTION:
The car must not be driven with wheels of different dimensions or with a spare tire other than the one that came
with the car. The use of different size wheels can seriously damage your car's transmission.
Correct tightening torque on wheel bolts must be observed. The wheel bolts should never be greased or lubricated.
The extended, chromed wheel bolts must not be used with steel rims, as they make it impossible to fit the hub caps.
pg. 94
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