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FIRST (1): This position gives you even more power
but lower fuel economy than
SECOND (2). You can use
it on very steep hills, or in deep snow or mud.
If the
selector lever is put in FIRST
(1) while the vehicle
is moving forward, the transmission won’t shift into first
gear until the vehicle is going slowly enough.
Notice: If your wheels won’t turn, don’t try to drive.
This might happen if you were stuck in very deep
sand or mud or were up against a solid object. You
could damage your transmission. Also, if you
stop when going uphill, don’t hold your vehicle there
with only the accelerator pedal. This could overheat
and damage the transmission. Use your brakes
or shift into
PARK (P) to hold your vehicle in
position on a hill.
Shift Lock Release
This vehicle is equipped with a shift lock release
system. If your vehicle has a dead battery and you need
to have your vehicle towed, there is a shift lock
release lever that will allow you to move the shift lever
out of PARK (P).
I o access the shift lock release lever, do the following:
1. Press on the sides of the boot around the shift
2. Lift up the boot on the shift lever and you will see
lever
to release the boot.
an orange lever.
3. Lift the orange lever up and move the shift lever out
of
PARK (P).
4. Snap the shift lever boot back in place.
All-Wheel Drive
Your vehicle may have this feature. There is no lever or
switch to engage
or disengage the front axle. It is
fully automatic and adjusts as needed for road
conditions. Your vehicle has an active transfer case
allowing two-wheel-drive operation on dry roads.
The transfer case will shift automatically into all-wheel
drive on slippery surfaces. You may feel an extra
shift when the all-wheel drive engages.
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Put on extra clothing or wrap a blanket around you.
If you have no blankets or extra clothing, make
body insulators from newspapers, burlap bags, rags,
floor mats
- anything you can wrap around
yourself or tuck under your clothing to keep warm.
-.-
You can run the engine to keep warm, but be careful. Snow can trap ~,,raust
,,ses u..,er your
vehicle. This can cause deadly
CO (carbon
monoxide) gas to get inside.
CO could
overcome you and
kill you. You can’t see it or
smell
it, so you might not know it is in your
vehicle. Clear away snow from around the
base of your vehicle, especially any that is
blocking your exhaust pipe. And check around
again from time to time to be sure snow
doesn’t collect there.
Open a window
just a little on the side of the
vehicle that’s away from the wind. This will
help keep
CO out.
Run your engine only as long as you must. This saves
fuel. When you run the engine, make it go a little
faster than just idle. That is, push the accelerator
slightly. This uses less fuel for the heat that you get and
it keeps the battery charged. You will need a
well-charged battery to restart the vehicle, and possibly
for signaling later on with your headlamps. Let the
heater run for a while.
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5. Check that the jumper cables don’t have loose or
missing insulation.
If they do, you could get a
shock. The vehicles could be damaged too.
Before you connect the cables, here are some
basic things you should know. Positive
(+) will go to
positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if
the vehicle has one. Negative (-) will go to a heavy,
unpainted metal engine part or
to a remote
negative
(-) terminal if the vehicle has one. Don’t
connect positive
(+) to negative (-) or you’ll get
a short that would damage the battery and maybe
other parts
too. And don’t connect the negative (-)
cable to the negative (-) terminal on the dead
battery because this can cause sparks.
6. Connect the red
positive
(+) cable to the
positive
(+) terminal of the
dead battery.
Use a
remote positive
(+)
terminal if the vehicle
has one.
7. Don’t let the other end
touch metal. Connect it
to
the positive (+) terminal
of the good battery. Use a
remote positive (+)
terminal if the vehicle
has one.
8. Now connect the black
negative
(-) cable to the
negative
(-) terminal
of the good battery. Use
a remote negative
(-)
terminal if the vehicle
has one.
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Don’t let the other end touch anything until the next
step. The other end of the negative
(-) cable
doesn’t go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy,
unpainted metal engine part or to the remote
negative
(-) terminal on the vehicle with the dead
battery. The remote negative
(-) terminal on
your vehicle is located on the front engine lift
bracket and is marked
“GND.”
9. Connect the other end of
the negative
(-) cable to
1 the remote negative (-)
terminal on the vehicle
with the dead battery.
10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run
the engine for a while.
11. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead battery. If
it Won’t start after a few tries, it probably needs
service.
Notice: Damage to your vehicle may result from
electrical shorting
if jumper cables are removed
incorrectly. To prevent electrical shorting, take care
that the cables don’t touch each other or any
other metal. The repairs wouldn’t be covered by
your warranty.
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Jumper Cable Removal
A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part or Remote
9. Good Battery or Remote Positive (+) and Remote
C. Dead Battery or Remote Positive (+) Terminal
Negative
(-) Terminal
Negative
(-) Terminals
To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles, do
the following:
1. Disconnect the black negative (-) cable from the
vehicle that had the dead battery.
2. Disconnect the black negative (-) cable from the
vehicle with the good battery.
3. Disconnect the red positive
(+) cable from the
4. Disconnect the red positive
(+) cable from the other
vehicle with the
good battery.
vehicle.
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