2003 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE piston ring

(2) If complaint was based on noise when braking,
check suspension components. Jounce front and rear
of vehicle and listen for noise that might be caused
by loose, worn or damaged suspension or steering
components.
(3) Inspect brake fluid level and condition. Note
that the brake reservoir fluid level will decrease in
proportion to normal lining wear.Also note that
brake fluid tends to darken over time. This is
normal and should not be mistaken for contam-
ination.
(a) If fluid level is abnormally low, look for evi-
dence of leaks at calipers, brake lines, master cyl-
inder, and HCU.
(b) If fluid appears contaminated, drain out a
sample to examine. System will have to be flushed
if fluid is separated into layers, or contains a sub-
stance other than brake fluid. The system seals,
cups, hoses, master cylinder, and HCU will also
have to be replaced after flushing. Use clean brake
fluid to flush the system.
(4) Check parking brake operation. Verify free
movement and full release of cables and lever. Also
note if vehicle was being operated with parking
brake partially applied.
(5) Check brake pedal operation. Verify that pedal
does not bind and has adequate free play. If pedal
lacks free play, check pedal and power booster for
being loose or for bind condition. Do not road test
until condition is corrected.
(6) Check booster vacuum check valve and hose.
(7) If components checked appear OK, road test
the vehicle.
ROAD TESTING
(1) If complaint involved low brake pedal, pump
pedal and note if it comes back up to normal height.
(2) Check brake pedal response with transmission
in neutral and engine running. Pedal should remain
firm under constant foot pressure.
(3) During road test, make normal and firm brake
stops in 25-40 mph range. Note faulty brake opera-
tion such as low pedal, hard pedal, fade, pedal pulsa-
tion, pull, grab, drag, noise, etc.
(4) Attempt to stop the vehicle with the parking
brake only (do not exceed 25 mph) and note grab,
drag, noise, etc.
PEDAL FALLS AWAY
A brake pedal that falls away under steady foot
pressure is generally the result of a system leak. The
leak point could be at a brake line, fitting, hose, or
caliper. If leakage is severe, fluid will be evident at
or around the leaking component.Internal leakage (seal by-pass) in the master cylin-
der caused by worn or damaged piston cups, may
also be the problem cause.
An internal leak in the ABS system may also be
the problem with no visual fluid leak.
LOW PEDAL
If a low pedal is experienced, pump the pedal sev-
eral times. If the pedal comes back up, the most
likely causes are worn linings, rotors, or calipers are
not sliding on the slide pins. The proper course of
action is to inspect and replace all worn component.
SPONGY PEDAL
A spongy pedal is most often caused by air in the
system. However substandard brake hoses can cause
a spongy pedal. The proper course of action is to
bleed the system, and replace substandard quality
brake hoses if suspected.
HARD PEDAL OR HIGH PEDAL EFFORT
A hard pedal or high pedal effort may be due to
lining that is water soaked, contaminated, glazed, or
badly worn. The power booster, check valve, check
valve seal/grommet or vacuum leak could also cause
a hard pedal or high pedal effort.
PEDAL PULSATION
Pedal pulsation is caused by components that are
loose, or beyond tolerance limits.
The primary cause of pulsation are disc brake
rotors with excessive lateral runout or thickness vari-
ation. Other causes are loose wheel bearings or cali-
pers and worn, damaged tires.
NOTE: Some pedal pulsation may be felt during
ABS activation.
BRAKE DRAG
Brake drag occurs when the lining is in constant
contact with the rotor or drum. Drag can occur at one
wheel, all wheels, fronts only, or rears only.
Drag is a product of incomplete brake release.
Drag can be minor or severe enough to overheat the
linings, rotors and park brake drums.
Minor drag will usually cause slight surface charring
of the lining. It can also generate hard spots in rotors
and park brake drums from the overheat-cool down pro-
cess. In most cases, the rotors, wheels and tires are
quite warm to the touch after the vehicle is stopped.
Severe drag can char the brake lining all the way
through. It can also distort and score rotors to the
point of replacement. The wheels, tires and brake
components will be extremely hot. In severe cases,
the lining may generate smoke as it chars from over-
heating.
WJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 3
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

Common causes of brake drag are:
²Parking brake partially applied.
²Loose/worn wheel bearing.
²Seized caliper.
²Caliper binding.
²Loose caliper mounting.
²Mis-assembled components.
²Damaged brake lines.
If brake drag occurs at the front, rear or all
wheels, the problem may be related to a blocked mas-
ter cylinder return port, faulty power booster (binds-
does not release) or the ABS system.
BRAKE FADE
Brake fade is usually a product of overheating
caused by brake drag. However, brake overheating
and resulting fade can also be caused by riding the
brake pedal, making repeated high deceleration stops
in a short time span, or constant braking on steep
mountain roads. Refer to the Brake Drag information
in this section for causes.
BRAKE PULL
Front brake pull condition could result from:
²Contaminated lining in one caliper
²Seized caliper piston
²Binding caliper
²Loose caliper
²Rusty caliper slide surfaces
²Improper brake shoes
²Damaged rotor
²Wheel alignment.
²Tire pressure.
A worn, damaged wheel bearing or suspension compo-
nent are further causes of pull. A damaged front tire
(bruised, ply separation) can also cause pull.
A common and frequently misdiagnosed pull condi-
tion is where direction of pull changes after a few
stops. The cause is a combination of brake drag fol-
lowed by fade at one of the brake units.
As the dragging brake overheats, efficiency is so
reduced that fade occurs. Since the opposite brake
unit is still functioning normally, its braking effect is
magnified. This causes pull to switch direction in
favor of the normally functioning brake unit.
An additional point when diagnosing a change in
pull condition concerns brake cool down. Remember
that pull will return to the original direction, if the
dragging brake unit is allowed to cool down (and is
not seriously damaged).
REAR BRAKE DRAG OR PULL
Rear drag or pull may be caused by improperly
adjusted park brake shoes or seized parking brake
cables, contaminated lining, bent or binding shoes or
improperly assembled components. This is particu-
larly true when only one rear wheel is involved.However, when both rear wheels are affected, the
master cylinder or ABS system could be at fault.
BRAKES DO NOT HOLD AFTER DRIVING THROUGH DEEP
WATER PUDDLES
This condition is generally caused by water soaked
lining. If the lining is only wet, it can be dried by
driving with the brakes very lightly applied for a
mile or two. However, if the lining is both soaked and
dirt contaminated, cleaning and or replacement will
be necessary.
BRAKE LINING CONTAMINATION
Brake lining contamination is mostly a product of
leaking calipers or worn seals, driving through deep
water puddles, or lining that has become covered with
grease and grit during repair. Contaminated lining
should be replaced to avoid further brake problems.
WHEEL AND TIRE PROBLEMS
Some conditions attributed to brake components
may actually be caused by a wheel or tire problem.
A damaged wheel can cause shudder, vibration and
pull. A worn or damaged tire can also cause pull.
NOTE: Propshaft angle can also cause vibration/
shudder.
Severely worn tires with very little tread left can
produce a grab-like condition as the tire loses and
recovers traction. Flat-spotted tires can cause vibra-
tion and generate shudder during brake operation.
Tire damage such as a severe bruise, cut, ply separa-
tion, low air pressure can cause pull and vibration.
BRAKE NOISES
Some brake noise is common on some disc brakes
during the first few stops after a vehicle has been
parked overnight or stored. This is primarily due to
the formation of trace corrosion (light rust) on metal
surfaces. This light corrosion is typically cleared from
the metal surfaces after a few brake applications
causing the noise to subside.
BRAKE SQUEAK/SQUEAL
Brake squeak or squeal may be due to linings that
are wet or contaminated with brake fluid, grease, or oil.
Glazed linings and rotors with hard spots can also con-
tribute to squeak. Dirt and foreign material embedded
in the brake lining will also cause squeak/squeal.
A very loud squeak or squeal is frequently a sign of
severely worn brake lining. If the lining has worn
through to the brake shoes in spots, metal-to-metal
contact occurs. If the condition is allowed to continue,
rotors may become so scored that replacement is nec-
essary.
5 - 4 BRAKES - BASEWJ
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

BRAKE PADS / SHOES
DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTION - FRONT DISC BRAKE SHOES
The calipers are twin piston type. The calipers are
free to slide laterally on the anchor, this allows con-
tinuous compensation for lining wear.
DESCRIPTION - REAR DISC BRAKE SHOES
The rear disc brakes consist of single piston float-
ing-type calipers and solid rotors. The rear caliper is
mounted on an anchor attached to an adapter
attached the rear axle tube flange. The anchors are
secured to the adapters with mounting bolts. The
disc brake rotor splash shield is part of the adaptor.
The disc brake rotor has a built in brake drum used
for the parking brakes (Fig. 6). The parking brake
shoes are mounted to the adaptor.
OPERATION
OPERATION - FRONT DISC BRAKE SHOES
When the brakes are applied fluid pressure is
exerted against the caliper pistons. The fluid pres-
sure is exerted equally and in all directions. This
means pressure exerted against the caliper pistons
and within the caliper bores will be equal (Fig. 7).
Fluid pressure applied to the pistons is transmit-
ted directly to the inboard brake shoe. This forces the
shoe lining against the inner surface of the disc
brake rotor. At the same time, fluid pressure within
the piston bores forces the caliper to slide inward on
the slide pins. This action brings the outboard brake
shoe lining into contact with the outer surface of the
disc brake rotor.
Fluid pressure acting simultaneously on the pis-
tons and caliper to produces a strong clamping
action. When sufficient force is applied, friction will
stop the rotors from turning and bring the vehicle to
a stop.Application and release of the brake pedal gener-
ates only a very slight movement of the caliper and
pistons. Upon release of the pedal, the caliper and
pistons return to a rest position. The brake shoes do
not retract an appreciable distance from the rotor. In
fact, clearance is usually at, or close to zero. The rea-
sons for this are to keep road debris from getting
between the rotor and lining and in wiping the rotor
surface clear each revolution.
The caliper piston seals control the amount of pis-
ton extension needed to compensate for normal lining
wear.
During brake application, the seals are deflected
outward by fluid pressure and piston movement (Fig.
8). When the brakes (and fluid pressure) are
released, the seals relax and retract the pistons.
The front outboard brake shoes have wear indica-
tors.
OPERATION - REAR DISC BRAKE SHOES
When the brakes are applied fluid pressure is
exerted against the caliper pistons. The fluid pres-
sure is exerted equally and in all directions. This
means pressure exerted against the caliper pistons
and within the caliper bores will be equal (Fig. 7).
Fluid pressure applied to the pistons is transmit-
ted directly to the inboard brake shoe. This forces the
Fig. 6 Rear Disc Brake Rotor
1 - PARKING BRAKE DRUM SURFACE
2 - REAR DISC BRAKE ROTOR
Fig. 7 Brake Caliper Operation
1 - CALIPER
2 - PISTON
3 - PISTON BORE
4 - SEAL
5 - INBOARD SHOE
6 - OUTBOARD SHOE
5 - 10 BRAKES - BASEWJ

shoe lining against the inner surface of the disc
brake rotor. At the same time, fluid pressure within
the piston bores forces the caliper to slide inward on
the slide pins. This action brings the outboard brake
shoe lining into contact with the outer surface of the
disc brake rotor.
Fluid pressure acting simultaneously on the pis-
tons and caliper to produces a strong clamping
action. When sufficient force is applied, friction will
stop the rotors from turning and bring the vehicle to
a stop.
Application and release of the brake pedal gener-
ates only a very slight movement of the caliper and
pistons. Upon release of the pedal, the caliper and
pistons return to a rest position. The brake shoes do
not retract an appreciable distance from the rotor. In
fact, clearance is usually at, or close to zero. The rea-
sons for this are to keep road debris from getting
between the rotor and lining and in wiping the rotor
surface clear each revolution.
The caliper piston seals control the amount of pis-
ton extension needed to compensate for normal lining
wear.
During brake application, the seals are deflected
outward by fluid pressure and piston movement (Fig.
8). When the brakes (and fluid pressure) are
released, the seals relax and retract the pistons.
The front outboard brake shoes have wear indica-
tors.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL- FRONT DISC BRAKE SHOES
(1) Raise and support vehicle.
(2) Remove wheel and tire assembly.(3) Drain small amount of fluid from master cylin-
der brake reservoir withcleansuction gun.
(4) Bottom caliper pistons into the caliper by pry-
ing the caliper over (Fig. 9).
(5) Remove the caliper support spring by prying
the spring out of the caliper (Fig. 10).
(6) Remove the caliper slide pin bushing caps and
remove the slide pins (Fig. 11).
(7) Remove caliper from the anchor.
Fig. 8 Lining Wear Compensation By Piston Seal
1 - PISTON
2 - CYLINDER BORE
3 - PISTON SEAL BRAKE PRESSURE OFF
4 - CALIPER HOUSING
5 - DUST BOOT
6 - PISTON SEAL BRAKE PRESSURE ON
Fig. 9 Bottoming Caliper Piston
1 - ROTOR
2 - CALIPER
Fig. 10 Caliper Support Spring
1 - SUPPORT SPRING
2 - CALIPER
WJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 11
BRAKE PADS / SHOES (Continued)

(8) Install wheel and tire assembly.
(9) Remove support and lower vehicle.
(10) Pump brake pedal until caliper pistons and
brake shoes are seated and a firm brake pedal is
obtained.
(11) Fill brake fluid.
INSTALLATION - REAR DISC BRAKE SHOES
(1) Install the inboard brake shoe onto the caliper
(Fig. 17).
(2) Install the outboard brake shoe onto the caliper
anchor (Fig. 18).
(3) Lubricate the slide pins and slide pin bushings
with Dow Corningtgrease G807 or the grease pro-
vided with the brake shoes.
(4) Install caliper on the anchor.
(5) Install the caliper slide pin and tighten to
29-41 N´m (21-30 ft. lbs.).
(6) Install the caliper slide pin bushing caps.
(7) Install the caliper support spring in the top
end of the caliper and under the anchor. Then installother end into the lower caliper hole. Hold the spring
into the caliper hole with your thumb while prying
the end of the spring out and down under the anchor
with a screw drive.
(8) Install wheel and tire assembly.
(9) Remove support and lower vehicle.
(10) Pump brake pedal until caliper piston and
brake shoes are seated and a firm brake pedal is
obtained.
(11) Fill brake fluid level if necessary.
DISC BRAKE CALIPERS
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - FRONT DISC BRAKE CALIPER
(1) Raise and support vehicle.
(2) Remove front wheel and tire assembly.
(3) Drain small amount of fluid from master cylin-
der brake reservoir withcleansuction gun.
(4) Bottom caliper pistons into the caliper by pry-
ing the caliper over (Fig. 19).
Fig. 18 Outboard Brake Shoe
1 - OUTBOARD BRAKE SHOE
2 - CALIPER ANCHOR
3 - ROTOR
Fig. 19 Bottoming Caliper Piston
1 - ROTOR
2 - CALIPER
5 - 14 BRAKES - BASEWJ
BRAKE PADS / SHOES (Continued)

(5) Remove brake hose banjo bolt and gasket
washers. Discard gasket washers.
(6) Remove the caliper support spring by prying
the spring out of the caliper (Fig. 20).
(7) Remove the caliper slide pin bushing caps and
remove the slide pins (Fig. 21).
(8) Remove caliper from the anchor.
(9) Remove the inboard brake shoe (Fig. 22).
REMOVAL - REAR DISC BRAKE CALIPER
(1) Raise and support vehicle.
(2) Remove rear wheel and tire assembly.
(3) Drain small amount of fluid from master cylin-
der brake reservoir with acleansuction gun.
(4) Bottom caliper pistons into the caliper by pry-
ing the caliper over (Fig. 23).
Fig. 20 Caliper Support Spring
1 - SUPPORT SPRING
2 - CALIPER
Fig. 21 Slide Pins
1 - SLIDE PIN
2 - SLIDE PIN
3 - CALIPER
Fig. 22 Inboard Brake Shoe
1 - CALIPER
2 - INBOARD SHOE
Fig. 23 Bottoming Caliper Piston
1 - CALIPER
2 - CALIPER ANCHOR
WJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 15
DISC BRAKE CALIPERS (Continued)

DISASSEMBLY
DISASSEMBLY - FRONT DISC BRAKE CALIPER
(1) Drain the brake fluid from caliper.
(2) C-clamp a block of wood over one piston (Fig.
27).
(3) Take another piece of wood and pad it with
one-inch thickness of shop towels. Place this piece in
the outboard shoe side of the caliper in front of the
other piston. This will cushion and protect caliper
piston during removal (Fig. 28).(4) To remove the caliper piston directshort
bursts of low pressure airwith a blow gun
through the caliper brake hose port. Use only enough
air pressure to ease the piston out.
CAUTION: Do not blow the piston out of the bore
with sustained air pressure. This could result in a
cracked piston.
WARNING: NEVER ATTEMPT TO CATCH THE PIS-
TON AS IT LEAVES THE BORE. THIS COULD
RESULT IN PERSONAL INJURY.
(5) Remove the C-clamp and block of wood from
the caliper and clamp it over the dust boot of the
first piston removed. This will seal the empty piston
bore.
(6) Move the padded piece of wood in front of the
other piston.
(7) Remove the second piston using the same pro-
cedure withshort bursts of low pressure air.
(8) Remove piston dust boots with a suitable pry
tool (Fig. 29)and discard.
Fig. 27 C-Clamp One Piston
1 - BLOCK OF WOOD
2 - C-CLAMP
3 - CALIPER
Fig. 28 Protect Caliper Piston
1 - CALIPER
2 - PADDED BLOCK OF WOOD
3 - C-CLAMP
Fig. 29 Piston Dust Boot Removal
1 - CALIPER
2 - PISTON DUST BOOT
WJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 17
DISC BRAKE CALIPERS (Continued)

(9) Remove piston seals from caliper (Fig. 30) and
discard.
CAUTION: Do not scratch piston bore while remov-
ing the seals.
(10) Remove caliper slide pin bushings (Fig. 31).
(11) Remove caliper bleed screw.
DISASSEMBLY - REAR DISC BRAKE CALIPER
(1) Drain brake fluid out of caliper.
(2) Take a piece of wood and pad it with one-inch
thickness of shop towels. Place this piece in the out-
board shoe side of the caliper in front of the piston.This will cushion and protect caliper piston during
removal (Fig. 32).
(3) To remove caliper piston directshort bursts
of low pressure airwith a blow gun through the
caliper brake hose port (Fig. 33). Use only enough air
pressure to ease the piston out.
CAUTION: Do not blow the piston out of the bore
with sustained air pressure. This could result in a
cracked piston.
WARNING: NEVER ATTEMPT TO CATCH THE PIS-
TON AS IT LEAVES THE BORE. THIS MAY RESULT
IN PERSONAL INJURY.
Fig. 30 Piston Seal
1 - CALIPER
2 - PISTON BORE
3 - PISTON SEAL
Fig. 31 Caliper Slide Pin Bushings
1 - CALIPER
2 - BUSHING
3 - CALIPER SLIDE PIN
Fig. 32 Padding Caliper Interior
1 - SHOP TOWELS OR CLOTHS
2 - CALIPER
Fig. 33 Caliper Piston Removal
1 - CALIPER PISTON
2 - AIR GUN
3 - PADDING MATERIAL
5 - 18 BRAKES - BASEWJ
DISC BRAKE CALIPERS (Continued)