2003 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE Brake booster vacuum line replacement

(2) If complaint was based on noise when braking,
check suspension components. Jounce front and rear
of vehicle and listen for noise that might be caused
by loose, worn or damaged suspension or steering
components.
(3) Inspect brake fluid level and condition. Note
that the brake reservoir fluid level will decrease in
proportion to normal lining wear.Also note that
brake fluid tends to darken over time. This is
normal and should not be mistaken for contam-
ination.
(a) If fluid level is abnormally low, look for evi-
dence of leaks at calipers, brake lines, master cyl-
inder, and HCU.
(b) If fluid appears contaminated, drain out a
sample to examine. System will have to be flushed
if fluid is separated into layers, or contains a sub-
stance other than brake fluid. The system seals,
cups, hoses, master cylinder, and HCU will also
have to be replaced after flushing. Use clean brake
fluid to flush the system.
(4) Check parking brake operation. Verify free
movement and full release of cables and lever. Also
note if vehicle was being operated with parking
brake partially applied.
(5) Check brake pedal operation. Verify that pedal
does not bind and has adequate free play. If pedal
lacks free play, check pedal and power booster for
being loose or for bind condition. Do not road test
until condition is corrected.
(6) Check booster vacuum check valve and hose.
(7) If components checked appear OK, road test
the vehicle.
ROAD TESTING
(1) If complaint involved low brake pedal, pump
pedal and note if it comes back up to normal height.
(2) Check brake pedal response with transmission
in neutral and engine running. Pedal should remain
firm under constant foot pressure.
(3) During road test, make normal and firm brake
stops in 25-40 mph range. Note faulty brake opera-
tion such as low pedal, hard pedal, fade, pedal pulsa-
tion, pull, grab, drag, noise, etc.
(4) Attempt to stop the vehicle with the parking
brake only (do not exceed 25 mph) and note grab,
drag, noise, etc.
PEDAL FALLS AWAY
A brake pedal that falls away under steady foot
pressure is generally the result of a system leak. The
leak point could be at a brake line, fitting, hose, or
caliper. If leakage is severe, fluid will be evident at
or around the leaking component.Internal leakage (seal by-pass) in the master cylin-
der caused by worn or damaged piston cups, may
also be the problem cause.
An internal leak in the ABS system may also be
the problem with no visual fluid leak.
LOW PEDAL
If a low pedal is experienced, pump the pedal sev-
eral times. If the pedal comes back up, the most
likely causes are worn linings, rotors, or calipers are
not sliding on the slide pins. The proper course of
action is to inspect and replace all worn component.
SPONGY PEDAL
A spongy pedal is most often caused by air in the
system. However substandard brake hoses can cause
a spongy pedal. The proper course of action is to
bleed the system, and replace substandard quality
brake hoses if suspected.
HARD PEDAL OR HIGH PEDAL EFFORT
A hard pedal or high pedal effort may be due to
lining that is water soaked, contaminated, glazed, or
badly worn. The power booster, check valve, check
valve seal/grommet or vacuum leak could also cause
a hard pedal or high pedal effort.
PEDAL PULSATION
Pedal pulsation is caused by components that are
loose, or beyond tolerance limits.
The primary cause of pulsation are disc brake
rotors with excessive lateral runout or thickness vari-
ation. Other causes are loose wheel bearings or cali-
pers and worn, damaged tires.
NOTE: Some pedal pulsation may be felt during
ABS activation.
BRAKE DRAG
Brake drag occurs when the lining is in constant
contact with the rotor or drum. Drag can occur at one
wheel, all wheels, fronts only, or rears only.
Drag is a product of incomplete brake release.
Drag can be minor or severe enough to overheat the
linings, rotors and park brake drums.
Minor drag will usually cause slight surface charring
of the lining. It can also generate hard spots in rotors
and park brake drums from the overheat-cool down pro-
cess. In most cases, the rotors, wheels and tires are
quite warm to the touch after the vehicle is stopped.
Severe drag can char the brake lining all the way
through. It can also distort and score rotors to the
point of replacement. The wheels, tires and brake
components will be extremely hot. In severe cases,
the lining may generate smoke as it chars from over-
heating.
WJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 3
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

INSTALLATION
A gear-type oil pump is mounted at the underside
of the cylinder block opposite the No.4 main bearing.
(1) Install the oil pump on the cylinder block using
a replacement gasket. Tighten the bolts to 23 N´m
(17 ft. lbs.) torque.
(2) Install the oil pan (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL PAN - INSTALLATION).
(3) Fill the oil pan with oil to the specified level.
INTAKE MANIFOLD
DESCRIPTION
The intake manifold (Fig. 83) is made of cast alu-
minum and uses eleven bolts to mount to the cylin-
der head. This mounting style improves sealing and
reduces the chance of leaks.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - INTAKE
MANIFOLD LEAKAGE
An intake manifold air leak is characterized by
lower than normal manifold vacuum. Also, one or
more cylinders may not be functioning.
WARNING: USE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN THE
ENGINE IS OPERATING. DO NOT STAND IN A
DIRECT LINE WITH THE FAN. DO NOT PUT YOUR
HANDS NEAR THE PULLEYS, BELTS OR THE FAN.
DO NOT WEAR LOOSE CLOTHING.
(1) Start the engine.
(2) Spray a small stream of water at the suspected
leak area.
(3) If a change in RPM is observed the area of the
suspected leak has been found.
(4) Repair as required.
REMOVAL
NOTE: THE ENGINE INTAKE AND EXHAUST MANI-
FOLD MUST BE REMOVED AND INSTALLED
TOGETHER. THE MANIFOLDS USE A COMMON
GASKET AT THE CYLINDER HEAD.
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cable.
(2) Remove air cleaner inlet hose from the resona-
tor assembly.
(3) Remove the air cleaner assembly.
(4) Remove the throttle cable, vehicle speed control
cable (if equipped) and the transmission line pres-
sure cable (Refer to 21 - TRANSMISSION/TRANS-
AXLE/AUTOMATIC - AW4/THROTTLE VALVE
CABLE - REMOVAL).
(5) Disconnect the following electrical connections
and secure their harness out of the way:
²Throttle Position Sensor
²Idle Air Control Motor
²Coolant Temperature Sensor (at thermostat
housing)
²Intake Air Temperature Sensor
²Oxygen Sensor
²Crank Position Sensor
²Six (6) Fuel Injector Connectors
²Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor.
(6) Disconnect HVAC, and Brake Booster vacuum
supply hoses at the intake manifold.
(7) Perform the fuel pressure release procedure.
(Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(8) Disconnect and remove the fuel system supply
line from the fuel rail assembly.
(9) Remove the accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
REMOVAL).
(10) Remove the power steering pump from the
intake manifold and set aside.
(11) Raise the vehicle.
(12) Disconnect the exhaust pipes from the engine
exhaust manifolds.
(13) Lower the vehicle.
(14) Remove the intake manifold and exhaust
manifold bolts and manifolds (Fig. 84).
INSTALLATION
If the manifold is being replaced, ensure all the fit-
ting, etc. are transferred to the replacement mani-
fold.
(1) Install a new engine exhaust/intake manifold
gasket over the alignment dowels on the cylinder
head.
(2) Position the engine exhaust manifolds to the
cylinder head. Install fastener Number 3 and finger
tighten at this time (Fig. 84).
Fig. 83 Intake Manifold 4.0L Engine
WJENGINE - 4.0L 9 - 57
OIL PUMP (Continued)