2003 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE not starting

REMOVAL) and (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER
HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
²Timing chain cover (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN COVER(S)
- REMOVAL).
²Cylinder head(s) (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLIN-
DER HEAD - REMOVAL) and (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
CYLINDER HEAD - REMOVAL).
(3) If necessary, remove top ridge of cylinder bores
with a reliable ridge reamer before removing pistons
from cylinder block.Be sure to keep tops of pis-
tons covered during this operation.Pistons and
connecting rods must be removed from top of cylinder
block. When removing piston and connecting rod
assemblies from the engine, rotate crankshaft so the
each connecting rod is centered in cylinder bore.
CAUTION: DO NOT use a number stamp or a punch
to mark connecting rods or caps, as damage to
connecting rods could occur
NOTE: Connecting rods and bearing caps are not
interchangeable and should be marked before
removing to ensure correct reassembly.(4) Mark connecting rod and bearing cap positions
using a permanent ink marker or scribe tool (Fig.
71).
CAUTION: Care must be taken not to damage the
fractured rod and cap joint face surfaces, as engine
damage may occur.
(5) Remove connecting rod cap. Install Special Tool
8507 Connecting Rod Guides into the connecting rod
being removed. Remove piston from cylinder bore.
Repeat this procedure for each piston being removed.
CAUTION: Care must be taken not to nick crank-
shaft journals, as engine damage may occur
(6) Immediately after piston and connecting rod
removal, install bearing cap on the mating connect-
ing rod to prevent damage to the fractured cap and
rod surfaces.
(7) Carefully remove piston rings from piston(s),
starting from the top ring down.
CLEANING
CAUTION: DO NOT use a wire wheel or other abra-
sive cleaning devise to clean the pistons or con-
necting rods. The pistons have a Moly coating, this
coating must not be damaged.
(1) Using a suitable cleaning solvent clean the pis-
tons in warm water and towel dry.
(2) Use a wood or plastic scraper to clean the ring
land grooves.
CAUTION: DO NOT remove the piston pin from the
piston and connecting rod assembly.
INSPECTION
Check the connecting rod journal for excessive
wear, taper and scoring (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/EN-
GINE BLOCK/CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
Fig. 70 Bore GaugeÐTypical
1 - FRONT
2 - BORE GAUGE
3 - CYLINDER BORE
4-38MM
(1.5 in)
Fig. 71 Identify Connecting Rod to Cylinder
PositionÐTypical
WJENGINE - 4.7L 9 - 119
PISTON & CONNECTING ROD (Continued)

STRUCTURAL COVER
DESCRIPTION
The structural dust cover is made of die cast alu-
minum and joins the lower half of the transmission
bell housing to the engine bedplate.
OPERATION
The structural cover provides additional power-
train stiffness and reduces noise and vibration.
REMOVAL
(1) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(2) Remove the left hand exhaust pipe from
exhaust manifold.
(3) Loosen the right hand exhaust manifold-to-ex-
haust pipe retaining bolts.
(4) Remove the eight bolts retaining structural
cover (Fig. 82) in the sequence shown.
(5) Pivot the exhaust pipe downward and remove
the structural cover.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: The structural cover must be installed as
described in the following steps. Failure to do so
will cause severe damage to the cover.
(1) Position the structural cover in the vehicle.
(2) Install all four bolts retaining the cover-to-en-
gine. DO NOT tighten the bolts at this time.
(3) Install the four cover-to-transmission bolts. Do
NOT tighten at this time.CAUTION: The structural cover must be held tightly
against both the engine and the transmission bell
housing during tightening sequence. Failure to do
so may cause damage to the cover.
(4) Starting with the two rear cover-to-engine
bolts, tighten bolts (1) (Fig. 83) to 54 N´m (40 ft. lbs.),
then tighten bolts (2) (Fig. 83) and (3) to 54 N´m ( 40
ft. lbs.) in the sequence shown.
(5) Install the exhaust pipe on left hand exhaust
manifold.
(6) Tighten exhaust manifold-to-exhaust pipe
retaining bolts to 20±26 N´m (15±20 ft. lbs.).
FRONT MOUNT
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
CAUTION: Remove the fan blade, fan clutch and fan
shroud before raising engine. Failure to do so may
cause damage to the fan blade, fan clutch and fan
shroud.
(2) Remove the engine oil filter (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL FILTER - REMOVAL).
(3) Support the engine with a suitable jack and a
block of wood across the full width of the engine oil
pan.
Fig. 82 Structural Cover
Fig. 83 Structural Cover
9 - 124 ENGINE - 4.7LWJ

(5) With a wiping cloth, clean the gasket sealing
surface of oil and grime.
INSTALLATION
(1) Lightly lubricate oil filter gasket with engine
oil.
(2) Thread filter onto adapter nipple. When gasket
makes contact with sealing surface, (Fig. 94)hand
tighten filter one full turn, do not over tighten.
(3) Add oil, verify crankcase oil level and start
engine. Inspect for oil leaks.
OIL PAN
DESCRIPTION
The engine oil pan is made of laminated steel and
has a single plane sealing surface. The sandwich
style oil pan gasket has an integrated windage tray
and steel carrier. The sealing area of the gasket is
molded with rubber and is designed to be reused as
long as the gasket is not cut, torn or ripped.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(3) Remove structural cover (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
ENGINE BLOCK/STRUCTURAL COVER - REMOV-
AL).
(4) Remove exhaust system Y-pipe.
(5) Remove starter (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
STARTING/STARTER MOTOR - REMOVAL).
(6) Drain engine oil.
(7) Un-clip transmission lines from support on oil
pan stud. Move lines for oil pan clearance.
CAUTION: DO NOT pry on the oil pan gasket when
removing the oil pan, The oil pan gasket is mounted
to the cylinder block in three locations and will
remain attached to block when lowering oil pan.
Gasket can not be removed with oil pan.
(8) Remove oil pan bolts and oil pan.
(9) Remove oil pump pickup tube.
(10) Remove oil pan gasket.
CLEANING
(1) Clean oil pan in solvent and wipe dry with a
clean cloth.
(2) Clean the oil pan gasket surface.DO NOTuse
a grinder wheel or other abrasive tool to clean seal-
ing surface.
(3) Clean oil screen and tube thoroughly in clean
solvent.
INSPECTION
(1) Inspect oil drain plug and plug hole for
stripped or damaged threads. Repair as necessary.
(2) Inspect the oil pan mounting flange for bends
or distortion. Straighten flange, if necessary.
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean oil pan and all sealing surfaces. Inspect
oil pan gasket and replace as necessary.
(2) Install oil pan gasket.
Fig. 93 Oil Filter - 4.7L Engine
1 - ENGINE OIL FILTER
Fig. 94 Oil Filter Sealing SurfaceÐTypical
1 - SEALING SURFACE
2 - RUBBER GASKET
3 - OIL FILTER
9 - 132 ENGINE - 4.7LWJ
OIL FILTER (Continued)

NOTE: When installing oil pan gasket/windage tray,
start four pan bolts at each corner before tightening
oil pickup tube. This will keep pan gasket in align-
ment.
(3) Install oil pump pick-up tube using a new
O-ring. First tighten bolt at O-ring end of tube to 28
N´m (20 ft. lbs.). Tighten remain tube support fasten-
ers to 28 N´m (20 ft. lbs.).
(4) Install oil pan and tighten fasteners to 15 N´m
(11 ft. lbs.) (Fig. 95).
(5) Reconnect transmission oil cooler lines to oil
pan stud bolt.
(6) Install starter (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
STARTING/STARTER MOTOR - INSTALLATION).
(7) Install exhaust system Y-pipe.
(8) Install structural cover (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
ENGINE BLOCK/STRUCTURAL COVER - INSTAL-
LATION).
(9) Lower vehicle.
(10) Fill engine with proper amount of oil (Refer to
LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE/FLUID TYPES -
SPECIFICATIONS).
(11) Connect negative cable to battery.
OIL PRESSURE SENSOR/
SWITCH
DESCRIPTION
The 3±wire, solid-state engine oil pressure sensor
(sending unit) is located in an engine oil pressure
gallery.
OPERATION
The oil pressure sensor uses three circuits. They are:
²A 5±volt power supply from the Powertrain Con-
trol Module (PCM)
²A sensor ground through the PCM's sensor
return
²
A signal to the PCM relating to engine oil pressure
The oil pressure sensor has a 3±wire electrical
function very much like the Manifold Absolute Pres-
sure (MAP) sensor. Meaning different pressures
relate to different output voltages.
A 5±volt supply is sent to the sensor from the PCM
to power up the sensor. The sensor returns a voltage
signal back to the PCM relating to engine oil pres-
sure. This signal is then transferred (bussed) to the
instrument panel on either a CCD or PCI bus circuit
(depending on vehicle line) to operate the oil pressure
gauge and the check gauges lamp. Ground for the
sensor is provided by the PCM through a low-noise
sensor return.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
(2) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(3) Remove front splash shield.
(4) Disconnect oil pressure sender wire (Fig. 96).
(5) Remove the pressure sender (Fig. 96).
INSTALLATION
(1) Install oil pressure sender.
(2) Connect oil pressure sender wire.
(3) Install front splash shield.
(4) Lower vehicle.
(5) Connect the negative battery cable.
Fig. 95 Oil Pan Tightening Sequence
Fig. 96 Oil Pressure Sending Unit
1 - BELT
2 - OIL PRESSURE SENSOR
3 - OIL FILTER
4 - ELEC. CONNECTOR
WJENGINE - 4.7L 9 - 133
OIL PAN (Continued)

(7) Connect throttle cable and speed control cable
to throttle body.
(8) Install fuel rail (Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/
FUEL DELIVERY/FUEL RAIL - INSTALLATION).
(9) Install ignition coil towers (Refer to 8 - ELEC-
TRICAL/IGNITION CONTROL/IGNITION COIL -
INSTALLATION).
(10) Install coolant temperature sensor (Refer to 7
- COOLING/ENGINE/ENGINE COOLANT TEMP
SENSOR - INSTALLATION).
(11) Connect electrical connectors for the following
components:
²Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor
²Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor
²Throttle Position (TPS) Sensor
²Coolant Temperature (CTS) Sensor
²Idle Air Control (IAC) Motor
²Ignition coil towers
²Fuel injectors
(12) Install top oil dipstick tube retaining bolt and
ground strap.
(13) Install right side engine lifting stud.
(14) Install generator including electrical connec-
tions (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/CHARGING/GEN-
ERATOR - INSTALLATION).
(15) Connect Vapor purge hose, Brake booster
hose, Speed control servo hose, Positive crankcase
ventilation (PCV) hose.
(16) Install air conditioning compressor including
electrical connections.
(17) Fill cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(18) Install accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
INSTALLATION).
(19) Install cowl to hood seal (Refer to 23 - BODY/
WEATHERSTRIP/SEALS/COWL WEATHERSTRIP -
INSTALLATION).
(20) Install air cleaner housing and throttle body
resonator. Tighten resonator bolts 4.5 N´m (40 in.
lbs.).
(21) Connect negative cable to battery.
EXHAUST MANIFOLD - LEFT
DESCRIPTION
The exhaust manifolds are log style with a pat-
ented flow enhancing design to maximize perfor-
mance. The exhaust manifolds are made of high
silicon molybdenum cast iron. A perforated core
graphite exhaust manifold gasket is used to improve
sealing to the cylinder head. The exhaust manifolds
are covered by a three layer laminated heat shield
for thermal protection and noise reduction. The heat
shields are fastened with a torque prevailing nutthat is backed off slightly to allow for the thermal
expansion of the exhaust manifold.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative cable for battery.
(2) Hoist vehicle.
(3) Disconnect exhaust pipe at manifold.
(4) Lower vehicle.
(5) Remove air cleaner housing and tube.
(6) Remove the front two exhaust heat shield
retaining fasteners. Raise vehicle and remove the
fasteners at rear of heat shield.
(7) Remove heat shield (Fig. 107).
(8) Lower vehicle and remove the upper exhaust
manifold retaining bolts (Fig. 107).
(9) Raise vehicle and remove the lower exhaust
manifold retaining bolts (Fig. 107).
(10) Remove exhaust manifold and gasket (Fig.
107). Manifold is removed from below the engine
compartment.
CLEANING
(1) Clean the exhaust manifold using a suitable
cleaning solvent, then allow to air dry.
(2) Clean all gasket residue from the manifold
mating surface.
INSPECTION
(1) Inspect the exhaust manifold for cracks in the
mating surface and at every mounting bolt hole.
(2) Using a straight edge and a feeler gauge, check
the mating surface for warp and twist.
(3) Inspect the manifold to exhaust pipe mating
surface for cracks, gouges, or other damage that
would prevent sealing.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install exhaust manifold and gasket from below
engine compartment.
(2) Install lower exhaust manifold fasteners (Fig.
107). DO NOT tighten until all fasteners are in
place.
(3) Lower vehicle and install upper exhaust mani-
fold fasteners (Fig. 107). Tighten all manifold bolts
starting at center and working outward to 25 N´m
(18 ft. lbs.).
CAUTION: Over tightening heat shield fasteners,
may cause shield to distort and/or crack.
(4) Install exhaust manifold heat shield (Fig. 107).
Tighten fasteners to 8 N´m (72 in. lbs.), then loosen
45 degrees.
(5) Install air cleaner housing and tube.
(6) Connect exhaust pipe to manifold.
(7) Connect negative cable to battery.
9 - 138 ENGINE - 4.7LWJ
INTAKE MANIFOLD (Continued)

INSPECTION
(1) Inspect the exhaust manifold for cracks in the
mating surface and at every mounting bolt hole.
(2) Using a straight edge and a feeler gauge, check
the mating surface for warp and twist.
(3) Inspect the manifold to exhaust pipe mating
surface for cracks, gouges, or other damage that
would prevent sealing.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install exhaust manifold and gasket from below
engine compartment.
(2) Install lower exhaust manifold fasteners. DO
NOT tighten until all fasteners are in place.
(3) Lower vehicle and install upper exhaust mani-
fold fasteners. Tighten all manifold bolts starting at
center and working outward to 25 N´m (18 ft. lbs.).
CAUTION: Over tightening heat shield fasteners,
may cause shield to distort and/or crack.
(4) Install exhaust manifold heat shield. Tighten
fasteners to 8 N´m (72 in. lbs.), then loosen 45
degrees.
(5) Install starter and fasteners.
(6) Connect exhaust pipe to manifold.
(7) Connect heater hoses at engine.
(8) Install fastener attaching A/C accumulator.
(9) Install A/C compressor and fasteners.
(10) Install accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
INSTALLATION).
(11) Install washer bottle and battery tray assem-
bly.
(12) Install PDC.
(13) Install battery and connect cables.
(14) Fill cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
VALVE TIMING
DESCRIPTION - TIMING DRIVE SYSTEM
The timing drive system has been designed to pro-
vide quiet performance and reliability to support a
non-free wheelingengine. Specifically the intake
valves are non-free wheeling and can be easily dam-
aged with forceful engine rotation if camshaft-to-
crankshaft timing is incorrect. The timing drive
system consists of a primary chain and two second-
ary timing chain drives (Fig. 109).
OPERATION - TIMING DRIVE SYSTEM
The primary timing chain is a single inverted tooth
type. The primary chain drives the large fifty tooth
idler sprocket directly from a 25 tooth crankshaftsprocket. Primary chain motion is controlled by a
pivoting leaf spring tensioner arm and a fixed guide.
The arm and the guide both use nylon plastic wear
faces for low friction and long wear. The primary
chain receives oil splash lubrication from the second-
ary chain drive and oil pump leakage. The idler
sprocket assembly connects the primary and second-
ary chain drives. The idler sprocket assembly con-
sists of two integral thirty tooth sprockets and a fifty
tooth sprocket that is splined to the assembly. The
spline joint is a non ± serviceable press fit anti rattle
type. A spiral ring is installed on the outboard side of
the fifty tooth sprocket to prevent spline disengage-
ment. The idler sprocket assembly spins on a station-
ary idler shaft. The idler shaft is press-fit into the
cylinder block. A large washer on the idler shaft bolt
and the rear flange of the idler shaft are used to con-
trol sprocket thrust movement. Pressurized oil is
routed through the center of the idler shaft to pro-
vide lubrication for the two bushings used in the
idler sprocket assembly.
There are two secondary drive chains, both are
inverted tooth type, one to drive the camshaft in each
SOHC cylinder head. There are no shaft speed
changes in the secondary chain drive system. Each
secondary chain drives a thirty tooth cam sprocket
directly from the thirty tooth sprocket on the idler
sprocket assembly. A fixed chain guide and a hydrau-
lic oil damped tensioner are used to maintain tension
in each secondary chain system. The hydraulic ten-
sioners for the secondary chain systems are fed pres-
surized oil from oil reservoir pockets in the block.
Each tensioner also has a mechanical ratchet system
that limits chain slack if the tensioner piston bleeds
down after engine shut down. The tensioner arms
and guides also utilize nylon wear faces for low fric-
tion and long wear. The secondary timing chains
receive lubrication from a small orifice in the ten-
sioners. This orifice is protected from clogging by a
fine mesh screen which is located on the back of the
hydraulic tensioners.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ENGINE TIMING -
VERIFICATION
CAUTION: The 4.7L is a non free-wheeling design
engine. Therefore, correct engine timing is critical.
NOTE: Components referred to as left hand or right
hand are as viewed from the drivers position inside
the vehicle.
WJENGINE - 4.7L 9 - 141
EXHAUST MANIFOLD - RIGHT (Continued)

STANDARD PROCEDURE - FUEL SYSTEM
PRESSURE RELEASE
Use following procedure if the fuel injector
rail is, or is not equipped with a fuel pressure
test port.
(1) Remove fuel fill cap.
(2) Remove fuel pump relay from Power Distribu-
tion Center (PDC). For location of relay, refer to label
on underside of PDC cover.
(3) Start and run engine until it stalls.
(4) Attempt restarting engine until it will no
longer run.
(5) Turn ignition key to OFF position.
CAUTION: Steps 1, 2, 3 and 4 must be performed to
relieve high pressure fuel from within fuel rail. Do
not attempt to use following steps to relieve this
pressure as excessive fuel will be forced into a cyl-
inder chamber.
(6) Unplug connector from any fuel injector.
(7) Attach one end of a jumper wire with alligator
clips (18 gauge or smaller) to either injector terminal.(8) Connect other end of jumper wire to positive
side of battery.
(9) Connect one end of a second jumper wire to
remaining injector terminal.
CAUTION: Powering an injector for more than a few
seconds will permanently damage the injector.
(10) Momentarily touch other end of jumper wire
to negative terminal of battery for no more than a
few seconds.
(11) Place a rag or towel below fuel line quick-con-
nect fitting at fuel rail.
(12) Disconnect quick-connect fitting at fuel rail.
Refer to Quick-Connect Fittings.
(13) Return fuel pump relay to PDC.
(14) One or more Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC's)
may have been stored in PCM memory due to fuel
pump relay removal. The DRBtscan tool must be
used to erase a DTC.
SPECIFICATIONS
FUEL SYSTEM PRESSURE
339 kPa   34 kPa (49.2 psi   5 psi).
TORQUE - FUEL DELIVERY
DESCRIPTION N-m Ft. Lbs. In. Lbs.
Accelerator Pedal Bracket Mounting Nuts
(without adjustable pedals)12  2 - 105  20
Fuel Filter/Fuel Press. Reg. Bolts 3 - 26
Fuel Hose Clamps 3 - 26
Fuel Injector Rail Mounting Bolts -4.0L Engine 11 - 100
Fuel Injector Rail Mounting Bolts -4.7L V-8
Engine11 - 100
Fuel Pump Module Locknut 74 55 -
Fuel Tank Filler Tube-to-Body Mounting Bolts 2 - 15
Fuel Tank-to-Body Mounting Bolts 88 65 -
Fuel Tank Support Bracket Bolts (large brackets) 88 65 -
Fuel Tank Support Bracket Bolts (small bracket) 5 - 45
Fuel Tank Support Bracket Nuts (large brackets) 61 45 -
Fuel Tank Heat Shield Nuts (shield-to-tank) 9 - 85
Fuel Tank Heat Shield Nuts (shield-to-body) 3 - 25
14 - 4 FUEL DELIVERYWJ
FUEL DELIVERY (Continued)

OPERATION
Voltage to operate the electric pump is supplied
through the fuel pump relay.
Fuel is drawn in through a filter at the bottom of
the module and pushed through the electric motor
gearset to the pump outlet.
Check Valve Operation:The pump outlet con-
tains a one-way check valve to prevent fuel flow back
into the tank and to maintain fuel supply line pres-
sure (engine warm) when pump is not operational. It
is also used to keep the fuel supply line full of gaso-
line when pump is not operational. After the vehicle
has cooled down, fuel pressure may drop to 0 psi
(cold fluid contracts), but liquid gasoline will remain
in fuel supply line between the check valve and fuel
injectors.Fuel pressure that has dropped to 0
psi on a cooled down vehicle (engine off) is a
normal condition.Refer to the Fuel Pressure Leak
Down Test for more information.
The electric fuel pump is not a separate, service-
able component.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - FUEL PUMP
CAPACITY TEST
Before performing this test, verify fuel pump
pressure. Refer to Fuel Pump Pressure Test.
Use this test in conjunction with the Fuel Pres-
sure Leak Down Test.
(1) Release fuel system pressure. Refer to Fuel
Pressure Release Procedure.
(2) Disconnect fuel supply line at fuel rail. Refer to
Quick-Connect Fittings. Some engines may require
air cleaner housing removal before line disconnection.
(3) Obtain correct Fuel Line Pressure Test Adapter
Tool Hose. Tool number 6539 is used for 5/16º fuel
lines and tool number 6631 is used for 3/8º fuel lines.
(4) Connect correct Fuel Line Pressure Test
Adapter Tool Hose into disconnected fuel supply line.
Insert other end of Adaptor Tool Hose into a gradu-
ated container.
(5) Remove fuel fill cap.
(6) To activate fuel pump and pressurize system,
obtain DRBtscan tool and actuate ASD Fuel System
Test.
(7) A good fuel pump will deliver at least 1/4 liter
of fuel in 7 seconds. Do not operate fuel pump for
longer than 7 seconds with fuel line disconnected as
fuel pump module reservoir may run empty.
(a) If capacity is lower than specification, but
fuel pump can be heard operating through fuel fill
cap opening, check for a kinked/damaged fuel sup-
ply line somewhere between fuel rail and fuel
pump module.(b) If line is not kinked/damaged, and fuel pres-
sure is OK, but capacity is low, replace fuel filter/
fuel pressure regulator. The filter/regulator may be
serviced separately on certain applications. Refer
to Fuel Filter/Fuel Pressure Regulator Removal/In-
stallation for additional information.
(c) If both fuel pressure and capacity are low,
replace fuel pump module assembly. Refer to Fuel
Pump Module Removal/Installation.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - FUEL PUMP
AMPERAGE TEST
This amperage (current draw) test is to be done in
conjunction with the Fuel Pump Pressure Test, Fuel
Pump Capacity Test and Fuel Pressure Leak Down
Test. Before performing the amperage test, be sure
the temperature of the fuel tank is above 50É F (10É
C).
The DRBtScan Tool along with the DRB Low Cur-
rent Shunt (LCS) adapter (Fig. 8) and its test leads
will be used to check fuel pump amperage specifica-
tions.
(1) Be sure fuel tank contains fuel before starting
test. If tank is empty or near empty, amperage read-
ings will be incorrect.
(2) Obtain LCS adapter.
(3) Plug cable from LCS adapter into DRB scan
tool at SET 1 receptacle.
(4) Plug DRB into vehicle 16±way connector (data
link connector).
Fig. 8 LOW CURRENT SHUNT
1 - LOW CURRENT SHUNT ADAPTER
2 - PLUG TO DRB
3 - TEST LEAD RECEPTACLES
WJFUEL DELIVERY 14 - 9
FUEL PUMP (Continued)