2003 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE Prop

(9) Lower the engine until it is properly located on
the engine mounts.
(10) Install the through bolts and tighten the nuts.
(11) Lower the jack stand and remove the piece of
wood.
(12) Install the engine flywheel and transmission
torque converter housing access cover.
(13) Install the engine starter motor. (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/STARTING/STARTER MOTOR -
INSTALLATION).
(14) Connect the exhaust pipe to the hanger and to
the engine exhaust manifold.
(15) Install transmission oil cooling lines (if
equipped) and oxygen sensor wiring supports that
attach to the oil pan studs.
(16) Install the oil pan drain plug (Fig. 81).
Tighten the plug to 34 N´m (25 ft. lbs.) torque.
(17) Lower the vehicle.
(18) Connect negative cable to battery.
(19) Fill the oil pan with engine oil to the specified
level.
WARNING: USE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN THE
ENGINE IS OPERATING. DO NOT STAND IN A
DIRECT LINE WITH THE FAN. DO NOT PUT YOUR
HANDS NEAR THE PULLEYS, BELTS OR FAN. DO
NOT WEAR LOOSE CLOTHING.
(20) Start the engine and inspect for leaks.
ENGINE OIL PRESSURE
SENSOR
DESCRIPTION
The 3±wire, solid-state engine oil pressure sensor
(sending unit) is located in an engine oil pressure
gallery.
OPERATION
The oil pressure sensor uses three circuits. They
are:
²A 5±volt power supply from the Powertrain Con-
trol Module (PCM)
²A sensor ground through the PCM's sensor
return
²A signal to the PCM relating to engine oil pres-
sure
The oil pressure sensor has a 3±wire electrical
function very much like the Manifold Absolute Pres-
sure (MAP) sensor. Meaning different pressures
relate to different output voltages.
A 5±volt supply is sent to the sensor from the PCM
to power up the sensor. The sensor returns a voltage
signal back to the PCM relating to engine oil pres-
sure. This signal is then transferred (bussed) to theinstrument panel on either a CCD or PCI bus circuit
(depending on vehicle line) to operate the oil pressure
gauge and the check gauges lamp. Ground for the
sensor is provided by the PCM through a low-noise
sensor return.
OIL PUMP
REMOVAL
A gear-type oil pump is mounted at the underside
of the cylinder block opposite the No.4 main bearing.
(1) Drain the engine oil.
(2) Remove the oil pan (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL PAN - REMOVAL).
(3) Remove the pump-to-cylinder block attaching
bolts. Remove the pump assembly with gasket (Fig.
82).
CAUTION: If the oil pump is not to be serviced, DO
NOT disturb position of oil inlet tube and strainer
assembly in pump body. If the tube is moved within
the pump body, a replacement tube and strainer
assembly must be installed to assure an airtight
seal.
Fig. 82 Oil Pump Assembly
1 - OIL FILTER ADAPTOR
2 - BLOCK
3 - GASKET
4 - OIL INLET TUBE
5 - OIL PUMP
6 - STRAINER ASSEMBLY
7 - ATTACHING BOLTS
9 - 56 ENGINE - 4.0LWJ
OIL PAN (Continued)

TIMING BELT/CHAIN AND
SPROCKETS
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Remove the fan and shroud (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ENGINE/RADIATOR FAN - REMOVAL).
(3) Remove the serpentine drive belt (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
REMOVAL).
(4) Remove the crankshaft vibration damper (Refer
to 9 - ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION
DAMPER - REMOVAL).
(5) Remove the timing case cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN
COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
(6) Rotate crankshaft until the ª0º timing mark is
closest to and on the center line with camshaft
sprocket timing mark (Fig. 88).
(7) Remove the oil slinger from the crankshaft.
(8) Remove the camshaft sprocket bolt and washer
(Fig. 89).
(9) Remove the crankshaft sprocket, camshaft
sprocket and timing chain as an assembly.
(10) Installation of the timing chain with the tim-
ing marks on the crankshaft and camshaft sprockets
properly aligned ensures correct valve timing. A worn
or stretched timing chain will adversely affect valvetiming. If the timing chain deflects more than 12.7
mm (1/2 inch) replace it.
INSTALLATION
Assemble the timing chain, crankshaft sprocket
and camshaft sprocket with the timing marks
aligned (Fig. 88).
(1) Apply MopartSilicone Rubber Adhesive Seal-
ant to the keyway in the crankshaft and insert the
key. With the key in the keyway on the crankshaft,
install the assembly on the crankshaft and camshaft.
(2)
Install the camshaft sprocket bolt and washer
(Fig. 89). Tighten the bolt to 68 N´m (50 ft. lbs.) torque.
(3) To verify correct installation of the timing
chain, rotate the crankshaft 2 revolutions. The cam-
shaft and crankshaft sprocket timing mark should
align (Fig. 88).
(4) Install the crankshaft oil slinger.
(5) Replace the oil seal in the timing case cover
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/CRANK-
SHAFT OIL SEAL - FRONT - REMOVAL).
(6) Install the timing case cover and gasket (Refer
to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT /
CHAIN COVER(S) - INSTALLATION).
(7) With the key installed in the crankshaft key-
way, install the vibration damper (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION DAMPER -
INSTALLATION).
(8) Install the serpentine drive belt (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
INSTALLATION).
(9) Install the fan, hub assembly and shroud
(Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/RADIATOR FAN -
INSTALLATION).
(10) Connect negative cable to battery.
Fig. 88 CrankshaftÐCamshaft Alignment
1 - CAMSHAFT SPROCKET
2 - TIMING MARKS
3 - CRANKSHAFT SPROCKET
Fig. 89 Camshaft Sprocket and Thrust Plate
1 - CAMSHAFT
2 - CAMSHAFT SPROCKET W/INTEGRAL KEY
3 - BOLT AND WASHER
4 - THRUST PLATE
9 - 60 ENGINE - 4.0LWJ

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CYLINDER
COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE
The combustion pressure leakage test provides an
accurate means for determining engine condition.
Combustion pressure leakage testing will detect:
²Exhaust and intake valve leaks (improper seat-
ing).
²Leaks between adjacent cylinders or into water
jacket.
²Any causes for combustion/compression pressure
loss.
(1) Check the coolant level and fill as required. DO
NOT install the radiator cap.
(2) Start and operate the engine until it attains
normal operating temperature, then turn the engine
OFF.
(3) Remove the spark plugs.
(4) Remove the oil filler cap.
(5) Remove the air cleaner.(6) Calibrate the tester according to the manufac-
turer's instructions. The shop air source for testing
should maintain 483 kPa (70 psi) minimum, 1,379
kPa (200 psi) maximum and 552 kPa (80 psi) recom-
mended.
(7) Perform the test procedures on each cylinder
according to the tester manufacturer's instructions.
Set piston of cylinder to be tested at TDC compres-
sion,While testing, listen for pressurized air escaping
through the throttle body, tailpipe and oil filler cap
opening. Check for bubbles in the radiator coolant.
All gauge pressure indications should be equal,
with no more than 25% leakage.
FOR EXAMPLE:At 552 kPa (80 psi) input pres-
sure, a minimum of 414 kPa (60 psi) should be main-
tained in the cylinder.
Refer to CYLINDER COMBUSTION PRESSURE
LEAKAGE DIAGNOSIS CHART .
CYLINDER COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE DIAGNOSIS CHART
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION
AIR ESCAPES THROUGH
THROTTLE BODYIntake valve bent, burnt, or not
seated properlyInspect valve and valve seat.
Reface or replace, as necessary.
Inspect valve springs. Replace as
necessary.
AIR ESCAPES THROUGH
TAILPIPEExhaust valve bent, burnt, or not
seated properlyInspect valve and valve seat.
Reface or replace, as necessary.
Inspect valve springs. Replace as
necessary.
AIR ESCAPES THROUGH
RADIATORHead gasket leaking or cracked
cylinder head or blockRemove cylinder head and inspect.
Replace defective part
MORE THAN 50% LEAKAGE
FROM ADJACENT CYLINDERSHead gasket leaking or crack in
cylinder head or block between
adjacent cylindersRemove cylinder head and inspect.
Replace gasket, head, or block as
necessary
MORE THAN 25% LEAKAGE AND
AIR ESCAPES THROUGH OIL
FILLER CAP OPENING ONLYStuck or broken piston rings;
cracked piston; worn rings and/or
cylinder wallInspect for broken rings or piston.
Measure ring gap and cylinder
diameter, taper and out-of-round.
Replace defective part as necessary
WJENGINE - 4.7L 9 - 69
ENGINE - 4.7L (Continued)

STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - REPAIR DAMAGED
OR WORN THREADS
CAUTION: Be sure that the tapped holes maintain
the original center line.
Damaged or worn threads can be repaired. Essen-
tially, this repair consists of:
²Drilling out worn or damaged threads.
²Tapping the hole with a special Heli-Coil Tap, or
equivalent.
²Installing an insert into the tapped hole to bring
the hole back to its original thread size.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - FORM-IN-PLACE
GASKETS AND SEALERS
There are numerous places where form-in-place
gaskets are used on the engine. Care must be taken
when applying form-in-place gaskets to assure
obtaining the desired results.Do not use form-in-
place gasket material unless specified.Bead size,
continuity, and location are of great importance. Too
thin a bead can result in leakage while too much can
result in spill-over which can break off and obstruct
fluid feed lines. A continuous bead of the proper
width is essential to obtain a leak-free gasket.
There are numerous types of form-in-place gasket
materials that are used in the engine area. Mopart
Engine RTV GEN II, MopartATF-RTV, and Mopart
Gasket Maker gasket materials, each have different
properties and can not be used in place of the other.
MOPARtENGINE RTV GEN II
MopartEngine RTV GEN II is used to seal com-
ponents exposed to engine oil. This material is a spe-
cially designed black silicone rubber RTV that
retains adhesion and sealing properties when
exposed to engine oil. Moisture in the air causes the
material to cure. This material is available in three
ounce tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one
year this material will not properly cure. Always
inspect the package for the expiration date before
use.
MOPARtATF RTV
MopartATF RTV is a specifically designed black
silicone rubber RTV that retains adhesion and seal-
ing properties to seal components exposed to auto-
matic transmission fluid, engine coolants, and
moisture. This material is available in three ounce
tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one year
this material will not properly cure. Always inspect
the package for the expiration date before use.
MOPARtGASKET MAKER
MopartGasket Maker is an anaerobic type gasket
material. The material cures in the absence of airwhen squeezed between two metallic surfaces. It will
not cure if left in the uncovered tube. The anaerobic
material is for use between two machined surfaces.
Do not use on flexible metal flanges.
MOPARtGASKET SEALANT
MopartGasket Sealant is a slow drying, perma-
nently soft sealer. This material is recommended for
sealing threaded fittings and gaskets against leakage
of oil and coolant. Can be used on threaded and
machined parts under all temperatures. This mate-
rial is used on engines with multi-layer steel (MLS)
cylinder head gaskets. This material also will pre-
vent corrosion. MopartGasket Sealant is available in
a 13 oz. aerosol can or 4oz./16 oz. can w/applicator.
FORM-IN-PLACE GASKET AND SEALER
APPLICATION
Assembling parts using a form-in-place gasket
requires care but it's easier then using precut gas-
kets.
MopartGasket Maker material should be applied
sparingly 1 mm (0.040 in.) diameter or less of sealant
to one gasket surface. Be certain the material sur-
rounds each mounting hole. Excess material can eas-
ily be wiped off. Components should be torqued in
place within 15 minutes. The use of a locating dowel
is recommended during assembly to prevent smear-
ing material off the location.
MopartEngine RTV GEN II or ATF RTV gasket
material should be applied in a continuous bead
approximately 3 mm (0.120 in.) in diameter. All
mounting holes must be circled. For corner sealing, a
3.17 or 6.35 mm (1/8 or 1/4 in.) drop is placed in the
center of the gasket contact area. Uncured sealant
may be removed with a shop towel. Components
should be torqued in place while the sealant is still
wet to the touch (within 10 minutes). The usage of a
locating dowel is recommended during assembly to
prevent smearing material off the location.
MopartGasket Sealant in an aerosol can should be
applied using a thin, even coat sprayed completely
over both surfaces to be joined, and both sides of a
gasket. Then proceed with assembly. Material in a
can w/applicator can be brushed on evenly over the
sealing surfaces. Material in an aerosol can should be
used on engines with multi-layer steel gaskets.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ENGINE GASKET
SURFACE PREPARATION
To ensure engine gasket sealing, proper surface
preparation must be performed, especially with the
use of aluminum engine components and multi-layer
steel cylinder head gaskets.
Neveruse the following to clean gasket surfaces:
²Metal scraper
9 - 70 ENGINE - 4.7LWJ
ENGINE - 4.7L (Continued)

²Abrasive pad or paper to clean cylinder block
and head
²High speed power tool with an abrasive pad or a
wire brush (Fig. 2)
NOTE: Multi-Layer Steel (MLS) head gaskets require
a scratch free sealing surface.
Only use the following for cleaning gasket surfaces:
²Solvent or a commercially available gasket
remover
²Plastic or wood scraper (Fig. 2)
²Drill motor with 3M RolocŸ Bristle Disc (white
or yellow) (Fig. 2)
CAUTION: Excessive pressure or high RPM (beyond
the recommended speed), can damage the sealing
surfaces. The mild (white, 120 grit) bristle disc is
recommended. If necessary, the medium (yellow, 80
grit) bristle disc may be used on cast iron surfaces
with care.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ENGINE CORE AND
OIL GALLERY PLUGS
Using a blunt tool such as a drift and a hammer,
strike the bottom edge of the cup plug. With the cup
plug rotated, grasp firmly with pliers or other suit-
able tool and remove plug (Fig. 3).
CAUTION: Do not drive cup plug into the casting as
restricted cooling can result and cause serious
engine problems.Thoroughly clean inside of cup plug hole in cylin-
der block or head. Be sure to remove old sealer.
Lightly coat inside of cup plug hole with Mopart
Stud and Bearing Mount. Make certain the new plug
is cleaned of all oil or grease. Using proper drive
plug, drive plug into hole so that the sharp edge of
the plug is at least 0.5 mm (0.020 in.) inside the
lead-in chamfer.
It is not necessary to wait for curing of the sealant.
The cooling system can be refilled and the vehicle
placed in service immediately.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cable.
(2) Remove the front fascia.
(3) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(4) Remove exhaust crossover pipe from exhaust
manifolds.
(5) Disconnect two ground straps from the lower
left hand side and one ground strap from the lower
right hand side of the engine.
(6) Disconnect crankshaft position sensor. (Fig. 4)
(7) Remove structural cover (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
ENGINE BLOCK/STRUCTURAL COVER - REMOV-
AL).
(8) Remove starter. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
STARTING/STARTER MOTOR - REMOVAL).
(9) Remove rubber splash shield.
(10) Drain cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(11) Remove torque converter bolts.
(12) Remove transmission to engine mounting
bolts.
Fig. 2 Proper Tool Usage For Surface Preparation
1 - ABRASIVE PAD
2 - 3M ROLOCŸ BRISTLE DISC
3 - PLASTIC/WOOD SCRAPER
Fig. 3 Core Hole Plug Removal
1 - CYLINDER BLOCK
2 - REMOVE PLUG WITH PLIERS
3 - STRIKE HERE WITH HAMMER
4 - DRIFT PUNCH
5 - CUP PLUG
WJENGINE - 4.7L 9 - 71
ENGINE - 4.7L (Continued)

AIR CLEANER ELEMENT
REMOVAL - 4.7L
(1) Unlatch four clips retaining air cleaner cover to
air cleaner housing (Fig. 8).
(2) Lift cover up and position to the side.
(3) Remove air cleaner element.
INSTALLATION - 4.7L
(1) Clean inside of air cleaner housing before
installing new element.
(2) Install air cleaner element into housing.
(3) Latch clips and clamp cover down to secure. Be
sure air cleaner cover is properly seated to air
cleaner housing.
Valve Spring Tester C-647
Dial Indicator C-3339
Valve Spring Compressor C-3422-B
Bore Size Indicator C-119
Oil Pressure Gauge C-3292
Piston Ring Compressor C-385
Pressure Tester Kit 7700
Bloc±Chek±Kit C-3685±A
WJENGINE - 4.7L 9 - 83
ENGINE - 4.7L (Continued)

AIR CLEANER HOUSING
REMOVAL - 4.7L
(1) Disconnect air cleaner cover-to-air duct clamp
(Fig. 8).
(2) Disconnect air duct at housing.
(3)Each of the 3 air cleaner housing mount-
ing bolts is attached with 2 nuts (an upper nut
and lower nut). DO NOT REMOVE BOLTS. To
prevent stripping bolts, only remove lower
nuts. The lower housing nuts are located under
left front inner fender (Fig. 8).
(a) To gain access to lower nuts, raise vehicle.
(b) Remove clips retaining rubber inner fender
shield.
(c) Pry back shield enough to gain access to
lower nuts.
(d) Remove 3 nuts.(e) Remove air cleaner assembly from vehicle.
(4) If resonator is to be removed, disconnect
breather tube at resonator, disconnect air duct clamp
at resonator (Fig. 8)and remove 2 resonator mount-
ing bolts (at sides of resonator). Remove resonator
from throttle body by loosening clamp at throttle
body.
INSTALLATION - 4.7L
(1) Position air cleaner assembly to body and
install 3 nuts. Tighten nuts to 10 N´m (93 in. lbs.)
torque.To prevent excessive vibration transmit-
ted through housing, the nuts must be properly
torqued. Do not overtighten nuts.
(2) If resonator was removed: Install resonator and
bolts. Tighten bolts to 4 N´m (35 in. lbs.) torque.
Tighten clamp at throttle body to 4 N´m (35 in. lbs.)
torque.
(3) Position fender liner and install clips.
(4) Connect air duct at housing (Fig. 8).
(5) Tighten air duct clamp.
CYLINDER HEAD - LEFT
DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTION - CYLINDER HEAD
The cylinder heads are made of an aluminum alloy.
The cylinder head features two valves per cylinder
with pressed in powdered metal valve guides. The
cylinder heads also provide enclosures for the timing
chain drain, necessitating unique left and right cylin-
der heads.
DESCRIPTION - VALVE GUIDES
The valve guides are made of powered metal and
are pressed into the cylinder head. The guides are
not replaceable or serviceable, and valve guide ream-
ing is not recommended. If the guides are worn
beyond acceptable limits, replace the cylinder heads.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HYDRAULIC LASH
ADJUSTER
A tappet-like noise may be produced from several
items. Check the following items.
(1) Engine oil level too high or too low. This may
cause aerated oil to enter the adjusters and cause
them to be spongy.
(2) Insufficient running time after rebuilding cylin-
der head. Low speed running up to 1 hour may be
required.
Fig. 8 Air Cleaner Assembly - 4.7L
1 - AIR DUCT
2 - CLAMPS
3 - AIR CLEANER COVER
4 - CLIPS
5 - HOUSING
6 - HOUSING BOLTS (3)
7 - LOWER HOUSING NUTS (3)
8 - RESONATOR BOLTS
9 - RESONATOR
9 - 84 ENGINE - 4.7LWJ
AIR CLEANER ELEMENT (Continued)

(11) Verify the V8 mark on the camshaft sprocket
is at the 12 o'clock position (Fig. 11). Rotate the
crankshaft one turn if necessary.
(12) Remove the crankshaft damper. (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION DAMPER -
REMOVAL).
(13) Remove the timing chain cover. (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN
COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
(14) Lock the secondary timing chains to the idler
sprocket using Special Tool 8515 (Fig. 10).
NOTE: Mark the secondary timing chain prior to
removal to aid in installation.
(15) Mark the secondary timing chain, one link on
each side of the V8 mark on the camshaft drive gear
(Fig. 11).
(16) Remove the left side secondary chain ten-
sioner. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIM-
ING BELT/CHAIN AND SPROCKETS - REMOVAL).
(17) Remove the cylinder head access plug (Fig.
12).
(18) Remove the left side secondary chain guide.
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING
BELT/CHAIN AND SPROCKETS - REMOVAL).
(19) Remove the retaining bolt and the camshaft
drive gear.CAUTION: Do not allow the engine to rotate. Severe
damage to the valve train can occur.
CAUTION: Do not overlook the four smaller bolts at
the front of the cylinder head. Do not attempt to
remove the cylinder head without removing these
four bolts.
NOTE: The cylinder head is attached to the cylinder
block with fourteen bolts.
(20) Remove the cylinder head retaining bolts.
(21) Remove the cylinder head and gasket. Discard
the gasket.
CAUTION: Do not lay the cylinder head on its gas-
ket sealing surface, due to the design of the cylin-
der head gasket any distortion to the cylinder head
sealing surface may prevent the gasket from prop-
erly sealing resulting in leaks.
CLEANING
To ensure engine gasket sealing, proper surface
preparation must be performed, especially with the
use of aluminum engine components. (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
Fig. 9 Engine Top Dead Center
1 - TIMING CHAIN COVER
2 - CRANKSHAFT TIMING MARKS
Fig. 10 Using Special Tool 8515 to Hold Chains to
Idler Sprocket.
1 - LOCK ARM
2 - RIGHT CAMSHAFT CHAIN
3 - SECONDARY CHAINS RETAINING PINS (4)
4 - IDLER SPROCKET
5 - LEFT CAMSHAFT CHAIN
6 - SPECIAL TOOL 8515
9 - 86 ENGINE - 4.7LWJ
CYLINDER HEAD - LEFT (Continued)