
(5) Remove the door cylinder lock switch from the
back of the lock cylinder.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the door cylinder lock switch onto the
back of the lock cylinder with its pigtail wire harness
oriented toward the bottom (Fig. 2).
(2) Position the lock lever onto the pin on the back
of the door lock cylinder with the lever oriented
toward the rear.
(3) Install the retainer clip onto the pin on the
back of the door lock cylinder. Be certain that the
center tab of the retainer is engaged in the retention
hole on the lock lever.
(4) Reinstall the outside door handle unit onto the
outer door panel. (Refer to 23 - BODY/DOOR -
FRONT/EXTERIOR HANDLE - INSTALLATION).
(5) Reconnect the battery negative cable.
HOOD AJAR SWITCH
DESCRIPTION
The hood ajar switch is a self-adjusting, normally
closed, single pole, double throw momentary switch
that is used only on vehicles built for sale in certain
international markets where it is required equipment
(Fig. 3). The mounting bracket is fastened to the left
inner fender. A molded plastic striker with three inte-
gral retainers is secured to the underside of the hood
panel inner reinforcement to actuate the switch
plunger as the hood panel is closed.The switchreceives a path to ground through the left inner
fender shield in the engine compartment.
The hood ajar switch adjusts itself as the striker
pushes the switch body down through the switch
when the hood panel is closed after the initial instal-
lation. This self-adjustment feature is only functional
the first time the hood is closed following installa-
tion. If the switch requires adjustment following the
initial installation, the switch must be replaced.
OPERATION
The normally closed hood ajar switch is normally
held open when the hood panel is closed and latched.
When the hood is opened, the switch plunger extends
from the switch body and the switch contacts are
closed. The hood ajar switch is connected in series
between ground and the hood ajar switch sense input
of the Body Control Module (BCM). The BCM uses
an internal resistor pull up to monitor the state of
the hood ajar switch contacts. The hood ajar switch
can be diagnosed using conventional diagnostic tools
and methods.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HOOD AJAR
SWITCH
The diagnosis found here addresses an inoperative
hood ajar switch. If the problem being diagnosed is
related to hood ajar switch accuracy, be certain to
confirm that the problem is not an improperly
adjusted hood ajar switch. If no hood ajar switch
adjustment problem is found, the following procedure
will help to locate a short or open in the hood ajar
switch circuit. Refer to the appropriate wiring infor-
mation.
WARNING: ON VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH AIR-
BAGS, DISABLE THE AIRBAG SYSTEM BEFORE
ATTEMPTING ANY STEERING WHEEL, STEERING
COLUMN, OR INSTRUMENT PANEL COMPONENT
DIAGNOSIS OR SERVICE. DISCONNECT AND ISO-
LATE THE BATTERY NEGATIVE (GROUND) CABLE,
THEN WAIT TWO MINUTES FOR THE AIRBAG SYS-
TEM CAPACITOR TO DISCHARGE BEFORE PER-
FORMING FURTHER DIAGNOSIS OR SERVICE. THIS
IS THE ONLY SURE WAY TO DISABLE THE AIRBAG
SYSTEM. FAILURE TO TAKE THE PROPER PRE-
CAUTIONS COULD RESULT IN ACCIDENTAL AIR-
BAG DEPLOYMENT AND POSSIBLE PERSONAL
INJURY.
(1) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative
cable. Disconnect the hood ajar switch. Check for
continuity between the harness ground circuit a good
ground. There should be continuity. If OK, go to Step
2. If not OK, repair the open ground circuit to
ground.
Fig. 3 Hood Ajar Switch
1 - SWITCH
2 - STUD (2)
3 - BRACKET
4 - FENDER
5 - CONNECTOR
6 - NUT (2)
WJVEHICLE THEFT SECURITY 8Q - 9
DOOR CYLINDER LOCK SWITCH (Continued)

The ITM microprocessor continuously monitors
inputs from its on-board motion sensor as well as
inputs from the BCM and the alarm siren module.
The ITM motion sensor transmits ultrasonic signals
into the vehicle cabin through a transmit transducer,
then listens to the returning signals as the bounce off
of objects in the vehicle interior. If an object is mov-
ing in the interior, a detection circuit in the ITM
senses this movement through the modulation of the
returning ultrasonic signals that occurs due to the
Doppler effect. The motion detect function of the ITM
can be disabled by depressing the ªLockº button on
the Remote Keyless Entry (RKE) transmitter three
times within fifteen seconds, while the security indi-
cator is still flashing rapidly or by cycling the key in
the driver door cylinder from the center to the lock
position. The ITM will signal the alarm siren module
to provide a single siren ªchirpº as an audible confir-
mation that the motion sensor function has been dis-
abled.
If movement is detected, the ITM sends an mes-
sage to the BCM over the PCI data bus to flash the
exterior lighting and send a message to the alarm
siren module over a dedicated serial bus line to
sound the siren. When the BCM detects a breach in
the perimeter protection through a door, tailgate,
flip-up glass, or hood ajar switch input, it sends an
message to the ITM and the ITM sends an message
to the BCM over the PCI data bus to flash the exte-
rior lighting and send a message to the alarm siren
module over a dedicated serial bus line to sound the
siren. The ITM also monitors inputs from the alarm
siren module for siren battery or siren input/output
circuit tamper alerts, and siren battery condition
alerts, then sets active and stored Diagnostic Trouble
Codes (DTC) for any monitored system faults it
detects. An active fault only remains for the current
ignition switch cycle, while a stored fault causes a
DTC to be stored in memory by the ITM. If a fault
does not reoccur for fifty ignition cycles, the ITM will
automatically erase the stored DTC.
The ITM is connected to the vehicle electrical sys-
tem through the overhead wire harness. The ITM
receives battery voltage on a B(+) circuit through a
fuse in the Junction Block (JB), and is grounded to
the chassis at G303. These connections allow the
ITM to remain operational, regardless of the ignition
switch position. The hard wired inputs and outputs
for the ITM may be diagnosed and tested using con-
ventional diagnostic tools and procedures. However,
conventional diagnostic methods will not prove con-
clusive in the diagnosis of the ITM, the PCI data bus
network, or the electronic message inputs to and out-
puts from the ITM. The most reliable, efficient, and
accurate means to diagnose the ITM, the PCI data
bus network, and the message inputs to and outputsfrom the ITM requires the use of a DRBIIItscan
tool. Refer to the appropriate diagnostic information.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative
cable.
(2) While pulling downward lightly on the rear cor-
ner of the Intrusion Transceiver Module (ITM) trim
cover, insert a small thin-bladed screwdriver through
each of the service holes on the rear edge of the trim
cover to release the two integral rear latch features
of the module from the mounting bracket above the
headliner (Fig. 7).
(3) Pull the ITM trim cover rearward far enough
to disengage the two front latch features of the mod-
ule from the mounting bracket above the headliner.
(4) Pull the ITM and trim cover down from the
headliner far enough to access and disconnect the
overhead wire harness connector for the ITM from
the module connector.
(5) Remove the ITM from the headliner.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the Intrusion Transceiver Module
(ITM) to the headliner.
(2) Reconnect the overhead wire harness connector
for the ITM to the module connector.
(3) Align the two front latch features of the ITM
with the two front latch receptacles of the mounting
bracket above the headliner (Fig. 8).
(4) Push the ITM trim cover forward far enough to
insert the two rear latch features of the module into
Fig. 7 INTRUSION TRANSCEIVER MODULE
REMOVE
1 - SMALL SCREWDRIVER
2 - HEADLINER
3 - SERVICE HOLES
4 - ITM
8Q - 12 VEHICLE THEFT SECURITYWJ
INTRUSION TRANSCEIVER MODULE (Continued)

(9) Install the six plastic nuts that secure the cowl
grille cover to the studs on the cowl top panel near
the base of the windshield. These nuts are to be
installed by pushing them onto the studs in the fol-
lowing sequence:
(a) First, install the short nuts to the third stud
from the right, then the second stud from the left.
(b) Next, install long nuts to the right outboard
stud, then the left outboard stud.
(c) Finally, install the two remaining long nuts
to the third stud from the left, then the second
stud from the right.
(10) Starting at the ends and working toward the
center, push the hood to plenum seal onto the for-
ward flanges of the cowl grille cover and the plenum
panel.
(11) Close and latch the hood.
(12) Reinstall the wiper arms onto the wiper piv-
ots. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/FRONT WIPERS/
WASHERS/FRONT WIPER ARMS -
INSTALLATION).
(13) Reconnect the battery negative cable.
RAIN SENSOR MODULE
DESCRIPTION
The Rain Sensor Module (RSM) is the primary
component of the automatic wiper system (Fig. 14).
The RSM is located on the inside of the windshield,
between the rear view mirror mounting button and
the windshield header and is concealed behind a
molded plastic trim cover that snaps over the modulehousing. The triangular-shaped molded black plastic
housing of the RSM has a rectangular opening
located on the upper end of the housing for the mod-
ule connector receptacle, which contains four termi-
nal pins. These terminal pins connect the rain sensor
to the vehicle electrical system through a dedicated
take out and connector of the overhead wire harness
that extends from above the headliner. Five openings
on the windshield side of the RSM housing are fitted
with eight convex clear plastic lenses. A metal spring
clip on each side of the housing near the bottom
secures the RSM to a plastic mounting bracket that
is bonded to the windshield glass. Concealed within
the RSM housing is the electronic circuitry of the
module, which includes four InfraRed (IR) diodes,
two photocells, and a microprocessor.
The RSM software is Flash compatible, which
means it can be reprogrammed using Flash repro-
gramming procedures. However, if any of the hard-
ware of the RSM is damaged or faulty, the entire
module must be replaced. The RSM bracket is ser-
viced as a unit with the windshield glass. If the
bracket is faulty, damaged, or separated from the
windshield glass, the windshield unit must be
replaced.
OPERATION
The microprocessor-based Rain Sensor Module
(RSM) senses moisture in the wipe pattern on the
outside of the windshield glass and sends wipe com-
mands to the Body Control Module (BCM). Four
InfraRed (IR) diodes within the RSM generate IR
light beams that are aimed by four of the convex
optical lenses near the base of the module through
the windshield glass. Four additional convex optical
lenses near the top of the RSM are focused on the IR
light beams on the outside of the windshield glass
and allow the two photocells within the module to
sense changes in the intensity of these IR light
beams. When sufficient moisture accumulates within
the wipe pattern of the windshield glass, the RSM
detects a change in the monitored IR light beam
intensity.
The internal programming of the RSM then sends
the appropriate electronic wipe command messages
to the BCM over the Programmable Communications
Interface (PCI) data bus. The BCM responds by acti-
vating or deactivating the front wiper system. The
BCM also sends electronic sensitivity level messages
to the RSM over the PCI data bus based upon the
driver-selected sensitivity setting of the control knob
on the control stalk of the right (wiper) multi-func-
tion switch. The higher the selected sensitivity set-
ting the more sensitive the RSM is to the
accumulated moisture on the windshield glass, and
Fig. 14 Rain Sensor Module
1 - SPRING CLIP (2)
2 - INFRARED LENS (4)
3 - HOUSING
4 - CONNECTOR RECEPTACLE
5 - PHOTOCELL LENS (4)
8R - 18 FRONT WIPERS/WASHERSWJ
FRONT WIPER MODULE (Continued)

CAUTION: DO NOT use engine or transmission oil,
mineral spirits, or kerosene.
(3) Honing should be done by moving the hone up
and down fast enough to get a crosshatch pattern.
The hone marks should INTERSECT at 40É to 60É
for proper seating of rings (Fig. 3).
(4) A controlled hone motor speed between 200 and
300 RPM is necessary to obtain the proper cross-
hatch angle. The number of up and down strokes per
minute can be regulated to get the desired 40É to 60É
angle. Faster up and down strokes increase the cross-
hatch angle.
(5) After honing, it is necessary that the block be
cleaned to remove all traces of abrasive. Use a brush
to wash parts with a solution of hot water and deter-
gent. Dry parts thoroughly. Use a clean, white, lint-
free cloth to check that the bore is clean. Oil the
bores after cleaning to prevent rusting.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ENGINE CORE AND
OIL GALLERY PLUGS
Using a blunt tool such as a drift and a hammer,
strike the bottom edge of the cup plug. With the cup
plug rotated, grasp firmly with pliers or other suit-
able tool and remove plug (Fig. 4).CAUTION: Do not drive cup plug into the casting as
restricted cooling can result and cause serious
engine problems.
Thoroughly clean inside of cup plug hole in cylin-
der block or head. Be sure to remove old sealer.
Lightly coat inside of cup plug hole with Mopart
Stud and Bearing Mount. Make certain the new plug
is cleaned of all oil or grease. Using proper drive
plug, drive plug into hole so that the sharp edge of
the plug is at least 0.5 mm (0.020 in.) inside the
lead-in chamfer.
It is not necessary to wait for curing of the sealant.
The cooling system can be refilled and the vehicle
placed in service immediately.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cable.
(2) Mark the hinge locations on the hood panel for
alignment reference during installation. Remove the
engine compartment lamp. Remove the hood.
(3) Remove the radiator drain cock and radiator
cap to drain the coolant. DO NOT waste usable cool-
ant. If the solution is clean, drain the coolant into a
clean container for reuse.
(4) Remove the upper radiator hose and coolant
recovery hose.
(5) Remove the lower radiator hose.
(6) Remove upper radiator support retaining bolts
and remove radiator support.
Fig. 3 Cylinder Bore Crosshatch Pattern
1 - CROSSHATCH PATTERN
2 - INTERSECT ANGLE
Fig. 4 Core Hole Plug Removal
1 - CYLINDER BLOCK
2 - REMOVE PLUG WITH PLIERS
3 - STRIKE HERE WITH HAMMER
4 - DRIFT PUNCH
5 - CUP PLUG
WJENGINE - 4.0L 9 - 11
ENGINE - 4.0L (Continued)

BODY
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
BODY
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
WATER LEAKS........................1
WIND NOISE..........................2
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - BODY
LUBRICATION.........................2
STANDARD PROCEDURE - DRILLING AND
WELDING............................3
SPECIFICATIONS
BODY LUBRICANTS....................3
SPECIFICATIONS - TORQUE.............4
SPECIAL TOOLS
BODY...............................4DECKLID/HATCH/LIFTGATE/TAILGATE........5
DOOR - FRONT.........................11
DOORS - REAR.........................19
EXTERIOR.............................25
HOOD.................................33
INSTRUMENT PANEL SYSTEM.............36
INTERIOR..............................69
PAINT.................................81
SEATS................................83
STATIONARY GLASS.....................93
SUNROOF.............................96
WEATHERSTRIP/SEALS..................105
BODY STRUCTURE.....................112
BODY
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
WATER LEAKS
Water leaks can be caused by poor sealing,
improper body component alignment, body seam
porosity, missing plugs, or blocked drain holes. Cen-
trifugal and gravitational force can cause water to
drip from a location away from the actual leak point,
making leak detection difficult. All body sealing
points should be water tight in normal wet-driving
conditions. Water flowing downward from the front of
the vehicle should not enter the passenger or luggage
compartment. Moving sealing surfaces will not
always seal water tight under all conditions. At
times, side glass or door seals will allow water to
enter the passenger compartment during high pres-
sure washing or hard driving rain (severe) condi-
tions. Overcompensating on door or glass
adjustments to stop a water leak that occurs under
severe conditions can cause premature seal wear and
excessive closing or latching effort. After completing
a repair, water test vehicle to verify leak has stopped
before returning vehicle to use.
VISUAL INSPECTION BEFORE WATER LEAK TESTS
Verify that floor and body plugs are in place, body
drains are clear, and body components are properly
aligned and sealed. If component alignment or seal-
ing is necessary, refer to the appropriate section of
this group for proper procedures.
WATER LEAK TESTS
WARNING: DO NOT USE ELECTRIC SHOP LIGHTS
OR TOOLS IN WATER TEST AREA. PERSONAL
INJURY CAN RESULT.
When the conditions causing a water leak have
been determined, simulate the conditions as closely
as possible.
²If a leak occurs with the vehicle parked in a
steady light rain, flood the leak area with an open-
ended garden hose.
²If a leak occurs while driving at highway speeds
in a steady rain, test the leak area with a reasonable
velocity stream or fan spray of water. Direct the
spray in a direction comparable to actual conditions.
²If a leak occurs when the vehicle is parked on an
incline, hoist the end or side of the vehicle to simu-
late this condition. This method can be used when
the leak occurs when the vehicle accelerates, stops or
turns. If the leak occurs on acceleration, hoist the
front of the vehicle. If the leak occurs when braking,
hoist the back of the vehicle. If the leak occurs on left
turns, hoist the left side of the vehicle. If the leak
occurs on right turns, hoist the right side of the vehi-
cle. For hoisting recommendations refer to Group 0,
Lubrication and Maintenance, General Information
section.
WATER LEAK DETECTION
To detect a water leak point-of-entry, do a water
test and watch for water tracks or droplets forming
on the inside of the vehicle. If necessary, remove inte-
rior trim covers or panels to gain visual access to the
WJBODY 23 - 1

EXTERIOR NAME PLATES
REMOVAL
NOTE: Exterior nameplates are attached to body
panels with adhesive tape.
(1) Apply a length of masking tape on the body,
parallel to the top edge of the nameplate to use as a
guide, if necessary.
(2) If temperature is below 21ÉC (70ÉF) warm
emblem with a heat lamp or gun. Do not exceed 52ÉC
(120ÉF) when heating emblem.
(3) Insert a plastic trim stick or a hard wood
wedge behind the emblem to separate the adhesive
backing from the body.
(4) Clean adhesive residue from body with MOPAR
Super Clean solvent or equivalent.
INSTALLATION
(1) Remove protective cover from adhesive tape on
back of emblem.
(2) Position emblem properly on body.(3) Press emblem firmly to body with palm of
hand.
(4) If temperature is below 21ÉC (70ÉF) warm
emblem with a heat lamp or gun to assure adhesion.
Do not exceed 52ÉC (120ÉF) when heating emblem.
FRONT FENDER
REMOVAL
(1) Using a wax crayon or equivalent, mark posi-
tion of fender.
(2) Remove front fender liner.
(3) Pull back fascia and remove screws attaching
fender to fascia.
(4) Remove screws attaching lower fender bracket
located behind fascia.
(5) Remove screws attaching fender to rocker
panel (Fig. 6).
(6) Remove screws attaching rear of fender to
A-pillar brackets.
(7) Open hood.
Fig. 6 Fender Mounting
1 - BODY
2 - FENDER
23 - 28 EXTERIORWJ

HOOD
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
GAS PROP
REMOVAL.............................33
INSTALLATION.........................33
HINGE
REMOVAL.............................33
INSTALLATION.........................33
HOOD
REMOVAL.............................33
INSTALLATION.........................34
ADJUSTMENTS
HOOD ADJUSTMENT..................34INSULATION
REMOVAL.............................34
INSTALLATION.........................34
LATCH
REMOVAL.............................34
INSTALLATION.........................34
LATCH RELEASE CABLE
REMOVAL.............................35
INSTALLATION.........................35
GAS PROP
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support hood.
(2) Using a small flat blade, pry the retainer
attaching hood support prop to lower ball stud.
(3) Slide retainer attaching hood support prop
upper ball stud downward.
(4) Disconnect hood support prop from lower ball
stud and rotate support prop upward and disconnect
from upper ball stud (Fig. 1).
INSTALLATION
(1) Position hood support prop on upper ball stud
(Fig. 1).(2) Slide retainer upward to secure support prop to
upper ball stud.
(3) Position support prop on lower ball stud and
press retainer inward to secure.
HINGE
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support hood.
(2) Using a wax crayon or equivalent, mark posi-
tion of hinge.
(3) Remove hood hinge prop rod.
(4) Remove nuts attaching hinge to hood (Fig. 1).
(5) Remove bolts attaching hinge to body.
(6) Separate hinge from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position hinge on vehicle and align reference
marks.
(2) Install bolts attaching hinge to body.
(3) Install nuts attaching hinge to hood.
(4) Install hood hinge prop rod.
HOOD
REMOVAL
(1) Raise hood.
(2) If equipped, disconnect underhood lamp har-
ness connector. (Connector is located under cowl
cover).
(3) Using a wax crayon or equivalent, mark loca-
tion of hood hinges on hood for installation align-
ment.
(4) Support hood in the open position.
(5) Remove hood support prop rods.
Fig. 1 Hood Support Prop
1 - HOOD
2 - COVER
3 - HINGE
4 - PROP
WJHOOD 23 - 33

(6) Remove bolts attaching hinges to hood.
(7) With the aid of a helper, remove hood from
vehicle.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position hood on hinges.
(2) Install bolts finger-tight.
(3) Align hinges with installation reference marks
and tighten bolts.
(4) Install hood support prop rods.
(5) Connect underhood lamp connector.
(6) Inspect hood for proper alignment and adjust
as necessary.
ADJUSTMENTS
HOOD ADJUSTMENT
The hood attaching holes are enlarged to aid front,
back and side to side adjustment.
(1) If hood is low in relation to cowl panel, insert
shims between hinge and hood.
(2) Adjust hood bumper in or out to adjust hood-
to-fender height alignment.
(3) Adjust the hood latch as necessary. Tighten the
nuts to 11N´m (8 ft. lbs.).
(4) Align the latch striker so that striker enters
the latch squarely and without binding.
INSULATION
REMOVAL
(1) Raise the hood.
(2) Remove the insulation panel fasteners.
(3) Remove the hood insulation panel.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the insulation panel on the underside
of the hood.
(2) Install the insulation panel fasteners.
(3) Close the hood.
LATCH
REMOVAL
(1) Remove nuts attaching latch to radiator cross-
member support (Fig. 2).
(2) Disconnect hood release cable from latch.
(3) Separate latch from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
(1) Connect latch release cable to latch.
(2) Position latch on radiator crossmember sup-
port.
(3) Install nuts attaching latch to radiator cross-
member support. Tighten nuts to 11 N´m (8 ft. lbs.)
torque (Fig. 2).
Fig. 2 Hood Latch
1 - HOOD RELEASE CABLE
2-LATCH
3 - BUMPER
23 - 34 HOODWJ
HOOD (Continued)