Carefully remove radiator pressure cap from filler
neck and check coolant level. Push down on cap to
disengage it from stop tabs. Wipe inside of filler neck
and examine lower inside sealing seat for nicks,
cracks, paint, dirt and solder residue. Inspect radia-
tor-to- reserve/overflow tank hose for internal
obstructions. Insert a wire through the hose to be
sure it is not obstructed.
Inspect cams on outside of filler neck. If cams are
damaged, seating of pressure cap valve and tester
seal will be affected.
Attach pressure tester (7700 or an equivalent) to
radiator filler neck (Fig. 6).
Operate tester pump to apply 103.4 kPa (15 psi)
pressure to system. If hoses enlarge excessively or
bulges while testing, replace as necessary. Observe
gauge pointer and determine condition of cooling sys-
tem according to following criteria:
Holds Steady:If pointer remains steady for two
minutes, serious coolant leaks are not present in sys-
tem. However, there could be an internal leak that
does not appear with normal system test pressure. If
it is certain that coolant is being lost and leaks can-
not be detected, inspect for interior leakage or per-
form Internal Leakage Test.
Drops Slowly:Indicates a small leak or seepage
is occurring. Examine all connections for seepage or
slight leakage with a flashlight. Inspect radiator,
hoses, gasket edges and heater. Seal small leak holes
with a Sealer Lubricant (or equivalent). Repair leak
holes and inspect system again with pressure
applied.
Drops Quickly:Indicates that serious leakage is
occurring. Examine system for external leakage. If
leaks are not visible, inspect for internal leakage.
Large radiator leak holes should be repaired by a
reputable radiator repair shop.INTERNAL LEAKAGE INSPECTION
Remove engine oil pan drain plug and drain a
small amount of engine oil. If coolant is present in
the pan, it will drain first because it is heavier than
oil. An alternative method is to operate engine for a
short period to churn the oil. After this is done,
remove engine dipstick and inspect for water glob-
ules. Also inspect transmission dipstick for water
globules and transmission fluid cooler for leakage.
WARNING: WITH RADIATOR PRESSURE TESTER
TOOL INSTALLED ON RADIATOR, DO NOT ALLOW
PRESSURE TO EXCEED 110 KPA (20 PSI). PRES-
SURE WILL BUILD UP QUICKLY IF A COMBUSTION
LEAK IS PRESENT. TO RELEASE PRESSURE,
ROCK TESTER FROM SIDE TO SIDE. WHEN
REMOVING TESTER, DO NOT TURN TESTER MORE
THAN 1/2 TURN IF SYSTEM IS UNDER PRESSURE.
Operate engine without pressure cap on radiator
until thermostat opens. Attach a Pressure Tester to
filler neck. If pressure builds up quickly it indicates a
combustion leak exists. This is usually the result of a
cylinder head gasket leak or crack in engine. Repair
as necessary.
If there is not an immediate pressure increase,
pump the Pressure Tester. Do this until indicated
pressure is within system range of 110 kPa (16 psi).
Fluctuation of gauge pointer indicates compression or
combustion leakage into cooling system.
Because the vehicle is equipped with a catalytic
converter,do notremove spark plug cables or short
out cylinders to isolate compression leak.
If the needle on dial of pressure tester does not
fluctuate, race engine a few times to check for an
abnormal amount of coolant or steam. This would be
emitting from exhaust pipe. Coolant or steam from
exhaust pipe may indicate a faulty cylinder head gas-
ket, cracked engine cylinder block or cylinder head.
A convenient check for exhaust gas leakage into
cooling system is provided by a commercially avail-
able Block Leak Check tool. Follow manufacturers
instructions when using this product.
COMBUSTION LEAKAGE TEST - WITHOUT
PRESSURE TESTER
DO NOT WASTE reusable coolant. If solution is
clean, drain coolant into a clean container for reuse.
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE CYLINDER BLOCK
DRAIN PLUGS OR LOOSEN RADIATOR DRAIN-
COCK WITH SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER PRESSURE.
SERIOUS BURNS FROM COOLANT CAN OCCUR.
Drain sufficient coolant to allow thermostat
removal. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/ENGINE
COOLANT THERMOSTAT - REMOVAL). Remove
Fig. 6 Pressure Testing Cooling SystemÐTypical
1 - TYPICAL COOLING SYSTEM PRESSURE TESTER
WJCOOLING 7 - 11
COOLING (Continued)
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
BELT BROKEN (NOTE: IDENTIFY
AND CORRECT PROBLEM
BEFORE NEW BELT IS
INSTALLED)1. Excessive tension. 1. Replace belt and automatic belt
tensioner.
2. Incorrect belt. 2. Replace belt.
3. Tensile member damaged during
belt installation.3. Replace belt.
4. Severe misalignment. 4. Check and replace.
5. Bracket, pulley, or bearing failure. 5. Replace defective component
and belt.
NOISE (OBJECTIONABLE
SQUEAL, SQUEAK, OR RUMBLE
IS HEARD OR FELT WHILE
DRIVE BELT IS IN OPERATION)1. Belt slippage. 1. Replace belt or automatic belt
tensioner.
2. Bearing noise. 2. Locate and repair.
3. Belt misalignment. 3. Replace belt.
4. Belt-to-pulley mismatch. 4. Install correct belt.
REMOVALÐ4.0L ENGINE
NOTE: The belt routing schematics are published
from the latest information available at the time of
publication. If anything differs between these sche-
matics and the Belt Routing Label, use the sche-
matics on Belt Routing Label. This label is located
in the engine compartment.
CAUTION: DO NOT LET TENSIONER ARM SNAP
BACK TO THE FREEARM POSITION, SEVERE DAM-
AGE MAY OCCUR TO THE TENSIONER.
Belt tension is not adjustable. Belt adjustment is
maintained by an automatic ( spring load ) belt ten-
sioner.
(1) Disconnect negative battery cable from battery.
(2) Rotate belt tensioner until it contacts its stop.
Remove belt, then slowly rotate the tensioner into
the freearm position. (Fig. 4).
INSTALLATIONÐ4.0L ENGINE
NOTE: The belt routing schematics are published
from the latest information available at the time of
publication. If anything differs between these sche-
matics and the Belt Routing Label, use the sche-
matics on Belt Routing Label. This label is located
in the engine compartment.
Belt tension is not adjustable. Belt adjustment is
maintained by an automatic ( spring load ) belt ten-
sioner.
(1) Check condition of all pulleys.CAUTION: When installing the serpentine accessory
drive belt, the belt MUST be routed correctly. If not,
the engine may overheat due to the water pump
rotating in the wrong direction (Fig. 4).
Fig. 4 Belt RoutingÐ4.0L
1 - GENERATOR
2 - IDLER
3 - POWER STEERING
4 - A/C
5 - CRANKSHAFT
6 - WATER PUMP
7 - TENSIONER
8 - ACCESSORY DRIVE BELT
WJACCESSORY DRIVE 7 - 19
DRIVE BELTS - 4.0L (Continued)
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
BELT BROKEN (NOTE: IDENTIFY
AND CORRECT PROBLEM
BEFORE NEW BELT IS
INSTALLED)1. Excessive tension. 1. Replace belt and automatic belt
tensioner.
2. Incorrect belt. 2. Replace belt.
3. Tensile member damaged during
belt installation.3. Replace belt.
4. Severe misalignment. 4. Check and replace.
5. Bracket, pulley, or bearing failure. 5. Replace defective component
and belt.
NOISE (OBJECTIONABLE
SQUEAL, SQUEAK, OR RUMBLE
IS HEARD OR FELT WHILE
DRIVE BELT IS IN OPERATION)1. Belt slippage. 1. Replace belt or automatic belt
tensioner.
2. Bearing noise. 2. Locate and repair.
3. Belt misalignment. 3. Replace belt.
4. Belt-to-pulley mismatch. 4. Install correct belt.
REMOVAL - 4.7L ENGINE
NOTE: The belt routing schematics are published
from the latest information available at the time of
publication. If anything differs between these sche-
matics and the Belt Routing Label, use the sche-
matics on Belt Routing Label. This label is located
in the engine compartment.
CAUTION: DO NOT LET TENSIONER ARM SNAP
BACK TO THE FREEARM POSITION, SEVERE DAM-
AGE MAY OCCUR TO THE TENSIONER.
Belt tension is not adjustable. Belt adjustment is
maintained by an automatic ( spring load ) belt ten-
sioner.
(1) Disconnect negative battery cable from battery.
(2) Rotate belt tensioner until it contacts its stop.
Remove belt, then slowly rotate the tensioner into
the freearm position. (Fig. 7).
Fig. 7 Belt Routing - 4.7L
1 - GENERATOR PULLEY
2 - ACCESSORY DRIVE BELT
3 - POWER STEERING PUMP PULLEY
4 - CRANKSHAFT PULLEY
5 - IDLER PULLEY
6 - TENSIONER
7 - A/C COMPRESSOR PULLEY
8 - WATER PUMP PULLEY
7 - 22 ACCESSORY DRIVEWJ
DRIVE BELTS - 4.7L (Continued)
NOTE: When ever the high pressure line fittings are
removed from the hydraulic fan drive the o-rings
located on the fittings must be replaced.
(7) Lubricate the o-rings on the fittings with power
steering fluid then connect inlet and outlet high pres-
sure lines to fan drive (Fig. 9). Tighten inlet line to
49 N´m (36 ft. lbs.) tighten outlet line to 29 N´m (21.5
ft. lbs.).
(8) Connect low pressure return hose to fan drive
(Fig. 9).
(9) Lower vehicle.
(10) Install radiator upper hose.
(11) Connect electrical connector for hydraulic fan
control solenoid.
(12) Tighten fan shroud upper mounting bolts to 6
N´m (50 in. lbs.).
(13) Refill cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
CAUTION: Do not run engine with power steering
fluid below the full mark in the reservoir. Sever
damage to the hydraulic cooling fan or the engine
can occur.(14) Refill power steering fluid reservoir and bleed
air from steering system (Refer to 19 - STEERING/
PUMP - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(15) Run engine and check for leaks.
RADIATOR FAN - 4.0L
DESCRIPTION
The radiator cooling fan used on the 4.0L engine is
an hybrid fan design. The hybrid fan system consist
of a low speed viscous driven mechanical fan and a
electrical fan (Fig. 10).
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative battery cable from battery.
(2) The thermal viscous fan drive/fan blade assem-
bly is attached (threaded) to water pump hub shaft.
Remove fan blade/viscous fan drive assembly from
water pump by turning mounting nut counterclock-
wise as viewed from front (Fig. 11). Threads on vis-
cous fan drive areRIGHT HAND.
(3) Do not attempt to remove fan/viscous fan drive
assembly from vehicle at this time.
(4) Do not unbolt fan blade assembly from viscous
fan drive at this time.
(5) Remove fan shroud-to-upper crossmember nuts.
(6) Remove fan shroud and fan blade/viscous fan
drive assembly as a complete unit from vehicle.
Fig. 9 HYDRAULIC LINES/HOSES AND ELECTRICAL
CONNECTOR
1 - LOW PRESSURE RETURN HOSE
2 - HIGH PRESSURE LINE (OUTLET)
3 - HIGH PRESSURE LINE (INLET)
4 - HYDRAULIC FAN DRIVEFig. 10 Radiator Cooling Fan
1 - RADIATOR
2 - ELECTRIC COOLING FAN CONNECTOR
3 - FAN SHROUD
4 - ELECTRIC COOLING FAN
WJENGINE 7 - 31
RADIATOR FAN - 4.7L (Continued)
An optional engine block heater (Fig. 13) is avail-
able with all models. The heater is equipped with a
power cord. The cord is attached to an engine com-
partment component with tie-straps. The heater
warms the engine providing easier engine starting
and faster warm-up in low temperatures. The heater
is mounted in a core hole of the engine cylinder block
in place of a freeze plug with the heating element
immersed in engine coolant.
OPERATION
Connecting the power cord to a grounded 110-120
volt AC electrical outlet with a grounded, three wire
extension cord activates the heating element warm-
ing the engine coolant.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐENGINE BLOCK
HEATER
If the unit does not operate (Fig. 14) (Fig. 15), pos-
sible causes can be either the power cord or the
heater element. Test the power cord for continuity
with a 110-volt voltmeter or 110-volt test light. Test
heater element continuity with an ohmmeter or a
12-volt test light.
CAUTION: To prevent damage, the power cord must
be secured in it's retainer clips and away from any
components that may cause abrasion or damage,
such as linkages, exhaust components, etc.
REMOVAL
REMOVALÐ4.7L ENGINE
(1) Disconnect negative battery cable from battery.
(2) Drain coolant from radiator (Refer to 7 -
COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
Fig. 12 Engine Block HeaterÐ4.7L
1 - ENGINE BLOCK HEATER
Fig. 13 Block Heater
1 - ENGINE BLOCK HEATER
Fig. 14 Engine Block Heater 4.0L Engine
1 - ENGINE BLOCK HEATER
WJENGINE 7 - 33
ENGINE BLOCK HEATER (Continued)
(3) Raise vehicle.
(4) Remove engine cylinder block drain plug(s)
located on the sides of cylinder block above the oil
pan rail (Fig. 16).
(5) Remove power cord from block heater.(6) Loosen screw at center of block heater. Remove
heater assembly (Fig. 17).
REMOVALÐ4.0L ENGINE
(1) Disconnect negative battery cable from battery.
(2) Drain coolant from radiator (Refer to 7 -
COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(3) Raise vehicle.
(4) Remove engine cylinder block drain plug(s)
located on the sides of cylinder block above the oil
pan rail (Fig. 18).
(5) Remove power cord from block heater.
(6) Loosen screw at center of block heater. Remove
heater assembly (Fig. 19).
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATIONÐ4.7L ENGINE
(1) Thoroughly clean cylinder block core hole and
block heater seat.
(2) Insert block heater assembly with element loop
pointing at twelve o'clock (Fig. 17).
(3) With block heater fully seated, tighten center
screw to 2 N´m (17 in. lbs.) torque.
(4) Refill cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(5) Start and warm the engine. Check for leaks.
INSTALLATIONÐ4.0L ENGINE
(1) Thoroughly clean cylinder block core hole and
block heater seat.
Fig. 15 Engine Block Heater 4.7L Engine
1 - ENGINE BLOCK HEATER
Fig. 16 Drain Plug - 4.7L Engine
1 - CYLINDER BLOCK DRAIN PLUG
2 - EXHAUST MANIFOLD AND HEAT SHIELD
Fig. 17 Engine Block Heater - 4.7L
1 - ENGINE BLOCK HEATER
7 - 34 ENGINEWJ
ENGINE BLOCK HEATER (Continued)
REMOVAL
REMOVALÐ4.0L ENGINE
WARNING: DO NOT LOOSEN THE RADIATOR
DRAINCOCK WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND PRES-
SURIZED. SERIOUS BURNS FROM THE COOLANT
CAN OCCUR.
Do not waste reusable coolant. If the solution is
clean, drain the coolant into a clean container for
reuse.
(1) Drain the coolant from the radiator until the
level is below the thermostat housing (Refer to 7 -
COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
WARNING: CONSTANT TENSION HOSE CLAMPS
ARE USED ON MOST COOLING SYSTEM HOSES.
WHEN REMOVING OR INSTALLING, USE ONLY
TOOLS DESIGNED FOR SERVICING THIS TYPE OF
CLAMP, SUCH AS SPECIAL CLAMP TOOL (NUMBER
6094) (Fig. 52). SNAP-ON CLAMP TOOL (NUMBER
HPC-20) MAY BE USED FOR LARGER CLAMPS.
ALWAYS WEAR SAFETY GLASSES WHEN SERVIC-
ING CONSTANT TENSION CLAMPS.
CAUTION: A number or letter is stamped into the
tongue of constant tension clamps. If replacement
is necessary, use only an original equipment clamp
with matching number or letter.
(2) Remove radiator upper hose and heater hose at
thermostat housing.
(3) Disconnect wiring connector at engine coolant
temperature sensor.
(4) Remove thermostat housing mounting bolts,
thermostat housing, gasket and thermostat (Fig. 24).
Discard old gasket.
(5) Clean the gasket mating surfaces.
REMOVALÐ4.7L ENGINE
WARNING: DO NOT LOOSEN RADIATOR DRAIN-
COCK WITH SYSTEM HOT AND PRESSURIZED.
SERIOUS BURNS FROM COOLANT CAN OCCUR.
Do not waste reusable coolant. If solution is clean,
drain coolant into a clean container for reuse.
If thermostat is being replaced, be sure that
replacement is specified thermostat for vehicle model
and engine type.
(1) Disconnect negative battery cable at battery.
(2) Drain cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(3) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(4) Remove splash shield.(5) Remove lower radiator hose clamp and lower
radiator hose at thermostat housing.
(6) Remove thermostat housing mounting bolts,
thermostat housing and thermostat (Fig. 25).
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATIONÐ4.0L ENGINE
(1) Install the replacement thermostat so that the
pellet, which is encircled by a coil spring, faces the
engine. All thermostats are marked on the outer
flange to indicate the proper installed position.
(a) Observe the recess groove in the engine cyl-
inder head (Fig. 26).
(b) Position thermostat in groove with arrow and
air bleed hole on outer flange pointing up.
(2) Install replacement gasket and thermostat
housing.
CAUTION: Tightening the thermostat housing
unevenly or with the thermostat out of its recess,
may result in a cracked housing.
(3) Tighten the housing bolts to 22 N´m (16 ft. lbs.)
torque.
(4) Install hoses to thermostat housing.
Fig. 24 Thermostat
1 - LONG BOLT
2 - GASKET
3 - THERMOSTAT
4 - THERMOSTAT HOUSING
5 - SHORT BOLT
7 - 38 ENGINEWJ
ENGINE COOLANT THERMOSTAT (Continued)
(5) Install electrical connector to coolant tempera-
ture sensor.
(6) Be sure that the radiator draincock is tightly
closed. Fill the cooling system to the correct levelwith the required coolant mixture (Refer to 7 -
COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(7) Start and warm the engine. Check for leaks.
INSTALLATIONÐ4.7L ENGINE
(1) Clean mating areas of timing chain cover and
thermostat housing.
(2) Install thermostat (spring side down) into
recessed machined groove on timing chain cover (Fig.
25).
(3) Position thermostat housing on timing chain
cover.
(4) Install two housing-to-timing chain cover bolts.
Tighten bolts to 13 N´m (115 in. lbs.) torque.
CAUTION: Housing must be tightened evenly and
thermostat must be centered into recessed groove
in timimg chain cover. If not, it may result in a
cracked housing, damaged timing chain cover
threads or coolant leaks.
(5) Install lower radiator hose on thermostat hous-
ing.
(6) Install splash shield.
(7) Lower vehicle.
(8) Fill cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(9) Connect negative battery cable to battery.
(10) Start and warm the engine. Check for leaks.
Fig. 25 Thermostat and Thermostat Housing
1 - THERMOSTAT HOUSING
2 - THERMOSTAT LOCATION3 - THERMOSTAT AND GASKET
4 - TIMING CHAIN COVER
Fig. 26 Thermostat Recess
1 - GROOVE
WJENGINE 7 - 39
ENGINE COOLANT THERMOSTAT (Continued)