2003 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE light

(9) Remove pinion shaft seal with Remover 7794-A
and slide hammer (Fig. 40).
(10)
Remove front pinion bearing using a pair of pick
tools to pull the bearing off the pinion gear shaft.
NOTE: If the pinion bearing becomes bound on the
pinion shaft, lightly tap the end of the shaft with a
rawhide/rubber mallet.
(11) Remove the collapsible spacer.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install anewcollapsible spacer on pinion
shaft.
(2) Install pinion front bearing on the pinion shaft.
(3) Apply a light coating of gear lubricant on the
lip of pinion seal and install seal with an appropriate
installer (Fig. 41).
(4) Install yoke with Installer C-3718 and Spanner
Wrench 6958 (Fig. 42).(5) Install yoke washer andnewnut on the pinion
gear. Tighten the nut to 271 N´m (200 ft. lbs.).
CAUTION: Never loosen pinion gear nut to decrease
pinion rotating torque and never exceed specified pre-
load torque. If preload torque or rotating torque is
exceeded a new collapsible spacer must be installed.
(6) Using yoke with Spanner Wrench 6958 and a
torque wrench set at 380 N´m (280 ft. lbs.), (Fig. 43)
slowly tighten the nut in 6.8 N´m (5 ft. lbs.) incre-
ments until the rotating torque is achieved. Measure
the rotating torque frequently to avoid over crushing
the collapsible spacer (Fig. 44).
Fig. 43 PINION NUT
1 - SPANNER WRENCH
2 - PIPE
3 - TORQUE WRENCH
Fig. 40 PINION SEAL REMOVER
1 - REMOVER
2 - SLIDE HAMMER
3 - PINION SEAL
Fig. 41 PINION SEAL INSTALLER
1 - HANDLE
2 - INSTALLER
Fig. 42 Pinion Yoke Installer
1 - INSTALLER
2 - PINION YOKE
3 - DIFFERENTIAL HOUSING
4 - SPANNER WRENCH
3 - 114 REAR AXLE - 226RBAWJ
COLLAPSIBLE SPACER (Continued)

NOTE: If more than 380 N´m (280 ft. lbs.) torque is
required to crush the collapsible spacer, the spacer
is defective and must be replaced.
(7) Check rotating torque with an inch pound
torque wrench (Fig. 44). The rotating torque of the
pinion gear should be, the reading recorded during
removal plus an additional 0.56 N´m (5 in. lbs.).
(8)
Install propeller shaft with reference marks align.
(9) Install rear brake rotors and calipers.
(10) Add gear lubricant, if necessary.
(11) Install wheel and tire assemblies.
(12) Remove supports and lower vehicle.
DIFFERENTIAL
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support vehicle.
(2) Remove fill hole plug from the differential
housing cover.
(3) Remove differential housing cover and drain
fluid.
(4) Clean the housing cavity with flushing oil, light
engine oil or lint free cloth.
NOTE: Do not use water, steam, kerosene or gaso-
line for cleaning.
(5) Remove axle shafts.(6)
Note the reference letters stamped on the bearing
caps and housing machined sealing surface (Fig. 45).
(7) Loosen the differential bearing cap bolts.
(8) Position Spreader W-129-B with Adapter Kit
6987B on differential locating holes (Fig. 46). Install
holddown clamps and tighten the turnbuckle finger-
tight.
Fig. 44 PINION ROTATING TORQUE
1 - TORQUE WRENCH
2 - PINION YOKE
Fig. 45 BEARING CAP REFERENCE
1 - REFERENCE LETTERS
2 - REFERENCE LETTERS
Fig. 46 SPREADER LOCATION
1 - DIFFERENTIAL HOUSING
2 - DOWEL
3 - SAFETY HOLD DOWN
4 - SPREADER
5 - TURNBUCKLE
WJREAR AXLE - 226RBA 3 - 115
COLLAPSIBLE SPACER (Continued)

(6) Install lubricated Step Plate C-6960-3 in lower
side gear (Fig. 68).
(7) Install the upper side gear and clutch disc pack
(Fig. 68).
(8) Hold assembly in position. Insert Threaded
Adapter C-6960-1 into top side gear.
(9) Install Forcing Screw C-6960-4 and tighten
screw to slightly compress clutch disc.
(10) Place pinion gears in position in side gears
and verify that the pinion mate shaft hole is aligned.
(11) Rotate case with Turning Bar C-6960-2 until
the pinion mate shaft holes in pinion gears align
with holes in case. It may be necessary to slightly
tighten the forcing screw in order to install the pin-
ion gears.
(12) Tighten forcing screw to 122 N´m (90 ft. lbs.)
maximum to compress the Belleville springs.
(13) Lubricate and install thrust washers behind
pinion gears and align washers with a small screw
driver. Insert mate shaft into each pinion gear to ver-
ify alignment.
(14) Remove Forcing Screw, Step Plate and
Threaded Adapter.
(15) Install pinion gear mate shaft and align holes
in shaft and case.(16) Install pinion mate shaft lock screw finger
tight to hold shaft during differential installation.
(17) Lubricate all differential components with
hypoid gear lubricant.
DIFFERENTIAL CASE
BEARINGS
REMOVAL
(1) Remove differential case from axle housing.
(2) Remove side bearings from the differential case
with Puller/Press C-293-PA, Adapters 8353 and Plug
C-293-3 (Fig. 69).
INSTALLATION
NOTE: If differential side bearings or differential
case are replaced, differential side bearing shim
requirements may change. Refer to Adjustments
(Differential Bearing Preload and Gear Backlash) for
procedures.
Fig. 68 CLUTCH PACK AND UPPER SIDE GEAR
1 - SIDE GEAR AND CLUTCH PACK
2 - DIFFERENTIAL CASE
3 - STEP PLATE
Fig. 69 Differential Bearing Removal
1 - ADAPTERS
2 - BEARING
3 - DIFFERENTIAL
4 - PLUG
5 - PULLER
WJREAR AXLE - 226RBA 3 - 123
DIFFERENTIAL - TRAC-LOK (Continued)

(1) Apply Mopar Door Ease or equivalent lubricant
to outside surface of pinion bearing cups.
(2) Install pinion rear bearing cup with Installer
C-4308 and Driver Handle C-4171 (Fig. 80) and ver-
ify cup is seated.
(3) Install pinion front bearing cup with Installer
D-129 and Handle C-4171 (Fig. 81) and verify cup is
seated.(4) Install pinion front bearing and oil slinger, if
equipped.
(5) Apply a light coating of gear lubricant on the
lip of pinion seal. Install seal with an appropriate
(Fig. 82).
(6) Install depth shim on the pinion gear.
(7) Install rear bearing on the pinion gear with
Installer 6448 and a press (Fig. 83).
Fig. 80 Rear Pinion Bearing Cup
1 - INSTALLER
2 - HANDLE
Fig. 81 FRONT PINION BEARING CUP
1 - INSTALLER
2 - HANDLE
Fig. 82 PINION SEAL INSTALLER
1 - HANDLE
2 - INSTALLER
Fig. 83 REAR PINION BEARING
1 - PRESS
2 - INSTALLER
3 - PINION GEAR
4 - PINION BEARING
WJREAR AXLE - 226RBA 3 - 127
PINION GEAR/RING GEAR (Continued)

(2) If complaint was based on noise when braking,
check suspension components. Jounce front and rear
of vehicle and listen for noise that might be caused
by loose, worn or damaged suspension or steering
components.
(3) Inspect brake fluid level and condition. Note
that the brake reservoir fluid level will decrease in
proportion to normal lining wear.Also note that
brake fluid tends to darken over time. This is
normal and should not be mistaken for contam-
ination.
(a) If fluid level is abnormally low, look for evi-
dence of leaks at calipers, brake lines, master cyl-
inder, and HCU.
(b) If fluid appears contaminated, drain out a
sample to examine. System will have to be flushed
if fluid is separated into layers, or contains a sub-
stance other than brake fluid. The system seals,
cups, hoses, master cylinder, and HCU will also
have to be replaced after flushing. Use clean brake
fluid to flush the system.
(4) Check parking brake operation. Verify free
movement and full release of cables and lever. Also
note if vehicle was being operated with parking
brake partially applied.
(5) Check brake pedal operation. Verify that pedal
does not bind and has adequate free play. If pedal
lacks free play, check pedal and power booster for
being loose or for bind condition. Do not road test
until condition is corrected.
(6) Check booster vacuum check valve and hose.
(7) If components checked appear OK, road test
the vehicle.
ROAD TESTING
(1) If complaint involved low brake pedal, pump
pedal and note if it comes back up to normal height.
(2) Check brake pedal response with transmission
in neutral and engine running. Pedal should remain
firm under constant foot pressure.
(3) During road test, make normal and firm brake
stops in 25-40 mph range. Note faulty brake opera-
tion such as low pedal, hard pedal, fade, pedal pulsa-
tion, pull, grab, drag, noise, etc.
(4) Attempt to stop the vehicle with the parking
brake only (do not exceed 25 mph) and note grab,
drag, noise, etc.
PEDAL FALLS AWAY
A brake pedal that falls away under steady foot
pressure is generally the result of a system leak. The
leak point could be at a brake line, fitting, hose, or
caliper. If leakage is severe, fluid will be evident at
or around the leaking component.Internal leakage (seal by-pass) in the master cylin-
der caused by worn or damaged piston cups, may
also be the problem cause.
An internal leak in the ABS system may also be
the problem with no visual fluid leak.
LOW PEDAL
If a low pedal is experienced, pump the pedal sev-
eral times. If the pedal comes back up, the most
likely causes are worn linings, rotors, or calipers are
not sliding on the slide pins. The proper course of
action is to inspect and replace all worn component.
SPONGY PEDAL
A spongy pedal is most often caused by air in the
system. However substandard brake hoses can cause
a spongy pedal. The proper course of action is to
bleed the system, and replace substandard quality
brake hoses if suspected.
HARD PEDAL OR HIGH PEDAL EFFORT
A hard pedal or high pedal effort may be due to
lining that is water soaked, contaminated, glazed, or
badly worn. The power booster, check valve, check
valve seal/grommet or vacuum leak could also cause
a hard pedal or high pedal effort.
PEDAL PULSATION
Pedal pulsation is caused by components that are
loose, or beyond tolerance limits.
The primary cause of pulsation are disc brake
rotors with excessive lateral runout or thickness vari-
ation. Other causes are loose wheel bearings or cali-
pers and worn, damaged tires.
NOTE: Some pedal pulsation may be felt during
ABS activation.
BRAKE DRAG
Brake drag occurs when the lining is in constant
contact with the rotor or drum. Drag can occur at one
wheel, all wheels, fronts only, or rears only.
Drag is a product of incomplete brake release.
Drag can be minor or severe enough to overheat the
linings, rotors and park brake drums.
Minor drag will usually cause slight surface charring
of the lining. It can also generate hard spots in rotors
and park brake drums from the overheat-cool down pro-
cess. In most cases, the rotors, wheels and tires are
quite warm to the touch after the vehicle is stopped.
Severe drag can char the brake lining all the way
through. It can also distort and score rotors to the
point of replacement. The wheels, tires and brake
components will be extremely hot. In severe cases,
the lining may generate smoke as it chars from over-
heating.
WJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 3
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

Common causes of brake drag are:
²Parking brake partially applied.
²Loose/worn wheel bearing.
²Seized caliper.
²Caliper binding.
²Loose caliper mounting.
²Mis-assembled components.
²Damaged brake lines.
If brake drag occurs at the front, rear or all
wheels, the problem may be related to a blocked mas-
ter cylinder return port, faulty power booster (binds-
does not release) or the ABS system.
BRAKE FADE
Brake fade is usually a product of overheating
caused by brake drag. However, brake overheating
and resulting fade can also be caused by riding the
brake pedal, making repeated high deceleration stops
in a short time span, or constant braking on steep
mountain roads. Refer to the Brake Drag information
in this section for causes.
BRAKE PULL
Front brake pull condition could result from:
²Contaminated lining in one caliper
²Seized caliper piston
²Binding caliper
²Loose caliper
²Rusty caliper slide surfaces
²Improper brake shoes
²Damaged rotor
²Wheel alignment.
²Tire pressure.
A worn, damaged wheel bearing or suspension compo-
nent are further causes of pull. A damaged front tire
(bruised, ply separation) can also cause pull.
A common and frequently misdiagnosed pull condi-
tion is where direction of pull changes after a few
stops. The cause is a combination of brake drag fol-
lowed by fade at one of the brake units.
As the dragging brake overheats, efficiency is so
reduced that fade occurs. Since the opposite brake
unit is still functioning normally, its braking effect is
magnified. This causes pull to switch direction in
favor of the normally functioning brake unit.
An additional point when diagnosing a change in
pull condition concerns brake cool down. Remember
that pull will return to the original direction, if the
dragging brake unit is allowed to cool down (and is
not seriously damaged).
REAR BRAKE DRAG OR PULL
Rear drag or pull may be caused by improperly
adjusted park brake shoes or seized parking brake
cables, contaminated lining, bent or binding shoes or
improperly assembled components. This is particu-
larly true when only one rear wheel is involved.However, when both rear wheels are affected, the
master cylinder or ABS system could be at fault.
BRAKES DO NOT HOLD AFTER DRIVING THROUGH DEEP
WATER PUDDLES
This condition is generally caused by water soaked
lining. If the lining is only wet, it can be dried by
driving with the brakes very lightly applied for a
mile or two. However, if the lining is both soaked and
dirt contaminated, cleaning and or replacement will
be necessary.
BRAKE LINING CONTAMINATION
Brake lining contamination is mostly a product of
leaking calipers or worn seals, driving through deep
water puddles, or lining that has become covered with
grease and grit during repair. Contaminated lining
should be replaced to avoid further brake problems.
WHEEL AND TIRE PROBLEMS
Some conditions attributed to brake components
may actually be caused by a wheel or tire problem.
A damaged wheel can cause shudder, vibration and
pull. A worn or damaged tire can also cause pull.
NOTE: Propshaft angle can also cause vibration/
shudder.
Severely worn tires with very little tread left can
produce a grab-like condition as the tire loses and
recovers traction. Flat-spotted tires can cause vibra-
tion and generate shudder during brake operation.
Tire damage such as a severe bruise, cut, ply separa-
tion, low air pressure can cause pull and vibration.
BRAKE NOISES
Some brake noise is common on some disc brakes
during the first few stops after a vehicle has been
parked overnight or stored. This is primarily due to
the formation of trace corrosion (light rust) on metal
surfaces. This light corrosion is typically cleared from
the metal surfaces after a few brake applications
causing the noise to subside.
BRAKE SQUEAK/SQUEAL
Brake squeak or squeal may be due to linings that
are wet or contaminated with brake fluid, grease, or oil.
Glazed linings and rotors with hard spots can also con-
tribute to squeak. Dirt and foreign material embedded
in the brake lining will also cause squeak/squeal.
A very loud squeak or squeal is frequently a sign of
severely worn brake lining. If the lining has worn
through to the brake shoes in spots, metal-to-metal
contact occurs. If the condition is allowed to continue,
rotors may become so scored that replacement is nec-
essary.
5 - 4 BRAKES - BASEWJ
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

SPECIAL TOOLS
BASE BRAKESBRAKE FLUID LEVEL SWITCH
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the wire connector from the fluid level
sensor.
(2) From the same side of the master cylinder res-
ervoir release the sensor locking taps with a small
screw driver.
(3) Pull the sensor out of the reservoir from the
connector side of the sensor.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the sensor with a new o-ring into the
reservoir until the locking tabs are engaged.
(2) Install the wire connector to the fluid level sen-
sor.
RED BRAKE WARN INDICATOR
SWITCH
DESCRIPTION
A red warning lamp is used for the service brake
portion of the hydraulic system. The lamp is located
in the instrument cluster.
OPERATION
The lamp is turned on momentarily when the igni-
tion switch is turn to the on position. This is a self
test to verify the lamp is operational.
The red warning light alerts the driver if the fluid
level is low or the parking brakes are applied. A red
warning lamp with an amber warning lamp may
indicate a electronic brake distribution fault.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - RED BRAKE
WARNING LAMP
The red warning lamp illuminates when the park-
ing brake is applied or when the fluid level in the
master cylinder is low. It will also illuminate at start
up as part of a bulb check.
If the light comes on, first verify that the parking
brakes are fully released. Then check pedal action
and fluid level. If a problem is confirmed, inspect the
brake hydraulic system for leaks.
A red warning lamp with a amber warning lamp
may indicate a electronic brake distribution fault.
Installer Caliper Dust Boot 8280
Handle C-4171
Adapter Pressure Bleeder 6921
WJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 7
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

BRAKE PADS / SHOES
DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTION - FRONT DISC BRAKE SHOES
The calipers are twin piston type. The calipers are
free to slide laterally on the anchor, this allows con-
tinuous compensation for lining wear.
DESCRIPTION - REAR DISC BRAKE SHOES
The rear disc brakes consist of single piston float-
ing-type calipers and solid rotors. The rear caliper is
mounted on an anchor attached to an adapter
attached the rear axle tube flange. The anchors are
secured to the adapters with mounting bolts. The
disc brake rotor splash shield is part of the adaptor.
The disc brake rotor has a built in brake drum used
for the parking brakes (Fig. 6). The parking brake
shoes are mounted to the adaptor.
OPERATION
OPERATION - FRONT DISC BRAKE SHOES
When the brakes are applied fluid pressure is
exerted against the caliper pistons. The fluid pres-
sure is exerted equally and in all directions. This
means pressure exerted against the caliper pistons
and within the caliper bores will be equal (Fig. 7).
Fluid pressure applied to the pistons is transmit-
ted directly to the inboard brake shoe. This forces the
shoe lining against the inner surface of the disc
brake rotor. At the same time, fluid pressure within
the piston bores forces the caliper to slide inward on
the slide pins. This action brings the outboard brake
shoe lining into contact with the outer surface of the
disc brake rotor.
Fluid pressure acting simultaneously on the pis-
tons and caliper to produces a strong clamping
action. When sufficient force is applied, friction will
stop the rotors from turning and bring the vehicle to
a stop.Application and release of the brake pedal gener-
ates only a very slight movement of the caliper and
pistons. Upon release of the pedal, the caliper and
pistons return to a rest position. The brake shoes do
not retract an appreciable distance from the rotor. In
fact, clearance is usually at, or close to zero. The rea-
sons for this are to keep road debris from getting
between the rotor and lining and in wiping the rotor
surface clear each revolution.
The caliper piston seals control the amount of pis-
ton extension needed to compensate for normal lining
wear.
During brake application, the seals are deflected
outward by fluid pressure and piston movement (Fig.
8). When the brakes (and fluid pressure) are
released, the seals relax and retract the pistons.
The front outboard brake shoes have wear indica-
tors.
OPERATION - REAR DISC BRAKE SHOES
When the brakes are applied fluid pressure is
exerted against the caliper pistons. The fluid pres-
sure is exerted equally and in all directions. This
means pressure exerted against the caliper pistons
and within the caliper bores will be equal (Fig. 7).
Fluid pressure applied to the pistons is transmit-
ted directly to the inboard brake shoe. This forces the
Fig. 6 Rear Disc Brake Rotor
1 - PARKING BRAKE DRUM SURFACE
2 - REAR DISC BRAKE ROTOR
Fig. 7 Brake Caliper Operation
1 - CALIPER
2 - PISTON
3 - PISTON BORE
4 - SEAL
5 - INBOARD SHOE
6 - OUTBOARD SHOE
5 - 10 BRAKES - BASEWJ