2003 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE Rear suspension

(2) If complaint was based on noise when braking,
check suspension components. Jounce front and rear
of vehicle and listen for noise that might be caused
by loose, worn or damaged suspension or steering
components.
(3) Inspect brake fluid level and condition. Note
that the brake reservoir fluid level will decrease in
proportion to normal lining wear.Also note that
brake fluid tends to darken over time. This is
normal and should not be mistaken for contam-
ination.
(a) If fluid level is abnormally low, look for evi-
dence of leaks at calipers, brake lines, master cyl-
inder, and HCU.
(b) If fluid appears contaminated, drain out a
sample to examine. System will have to be flushed
if fluid is separated into layers, or contains a sub-
stance other than brake fluid. The system seals,
cups, hoses, master cylinder, and HCU will also
have to be replaced after flushing. Use clean brake
fluid to flush the system.
(4) Check parking brake operation. Verify free
movement and full release of cables and lever. Also
note if vehicle was being operated with parking
brake partially applied.
(5) Check brake pedal operation. Verify that pedal
does not bind and has adequate free play. If pedal
lacks free play, check pedal and power booster for
being loose or for bind condition. Do not road test
until condition is corrected.
(6) Check booster vacuum check valve and hose.
(7) If components checked appear OK, road test
the vehicle.
ROAD TESTING
(1) If complaint involved low brake pedal, pump
pedal and note if it comes back up to normal height.
(2) Check brake pedal response with transmission
in neutral and engine running. Pedal should remain
firm under constant foot pressure.
(3) During road test, make normal and firm brake
stops in 25-40 mph range. Note faulty brake opera-
tion such as low pedal, hard pedal, fade, pedal pulsa-
tion, pull, grab, drag, noise, etc.
(4) Attempt to stop the vehicle with the parking
brake only (do not exceed 25 mph) and note grab,
drag, noise, etc.
PEDAL FALLS AWAY
A brake pedal that falls away under steady foot
pressure is generally the result of a system leak. The
leak point could be at a brake line, fitting, hose, or
caliper. If leakage is severe, fluid will be evident at
or around the leaking component.Internal leakage (seal by-pass) in the master cylin-
der caused by worn or damaged piston cups, may
also be the problem cause.
An internal leak in the ABS system may also be
the problem with no visual fluid leak.
LOW PEDAL
If a low pedal is experienced, pump the pedal sev-
eral times. If the pedal comes back up, the most
likely causes are worn linings, rotors, or calipers are
not sliding on the slide pins. The proper course of
action is to inspect and replace all worn component.
SPONGY PEDAL
A spongy pedal is most often caused by air in the
system. However substandard brake hoses can cause
a spongy pedal. The proper course of action is to
bleed the system, and replace substandard quality
brake hoses if suspected.
HARD PEDAL OR HIGH PEDAL EFFORT
A hard pedal or high pedal effort may be due to
lining that is water soaked, contaminated, glazed, or
badly worn. The power booster, check valve, check
valve seal/grommet or vacuum leak could also cause
a hard pedal or high pedal effort.
PEDAL PULSATION
Pedal pulsation is caused by components that are
loose, or beyond tolerance limits.
The primary cause of pulsation are disc brake
rotors with excessive lateral runout or thickness vari-
ation. Other causes are loose wheel bearings or cali-
pers and worn, damaged tires.
NOTE: Some pedal pulsation may be felt during
ABS activation.
BRAKE DRAG
Brake drag occurs when the lining is in constant
contact with the rotor or drum. Drag can occur at one
wheel, all wheels, fronts only, or rears only.
Drag is a product of incomplete brake release.
Drag can be minor or severe enough to overheat the
linings, rotors and park brake drums.
Minor drag will usually cause slight surface charring
of the lining. It can also generate hard spots in rotors
and park brake drums from the overheat-cool down pro-
cess. In most cases, the rotors, wheels and tires are
quite warm to the touch after the vehicle is stopped.
Severe drag can char the brake lining all the way
through. It can also distort and score rotors to the
point of replacement. The wheels, tires and brake
components will be extremely hot. In severe cases,
the lining may generate smoke as it chars from over-
heating.
WJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 3
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

Common causes of brake drag are:
²Parking brake partially applied.
²Loose/worn wheel bearing.
²Seized caliper.
²Caliper binding.
²Loose caliper mounting.
²Mis-assembled components.
²Damaged brake lines.
If brake drag occurs at the front, rear or all
wheels, the problem may be related to a blocked mas-
ter cylinder return port, faulty power booster (binds-
does not release) or the ABS system.
BRAKE FADE
Brake fade is usually a product of overheating
caused by brake drag. However, brake overheating
and resulting fade can also be caused by riding the
brake pedal, making repeated high deceleration stops
in a short time span, or constant braking on steep
mountain roads. Refer to the Brake Drag information
in this section for causes.
BRAKE PULL
Front brake pull condition could result from:
²Contaminated lining in one caliper
²Seized caliper piston
²Binding caliper
²Loose caliper
²Rusty caliper slide surfaces
²Improper brake shoes
²Damaged rotor
²Wheel alignment.
²Tire pressure.
A worn, damaged wheel bearing or suspension compo-
nent are further causes of pull. A damaged front tire
(bruised, ply separation) can also cause pull.
A common and frequently misdiagnosed pull condi-
tion is where direction of pull changes after a few
stops. The cause is a combination of brake drag fol-
lowed by fade at one of the brake units.
As the dragging brake overheats, efficiency is so
reduced that fade occurs. Since the opposite brake
unit is still functioning normally, its braking effect is
magnified. This causes pull to switch direction in
favor of the normally functioning brake unit.
An additional point when diagnosing a change in
pull condition concerns brake cool down. Remember
that pull will return to the original direction, if the
dragging brake unit is allowed to cool down (and is
not seriously damaged).
REAR BRAKE DRAG OR PULL
Rear drag or pull may be caused by improperly
adjusted park brake shoes or seized parking brake
cables, contaminated lining, bent or binding shoes or
improperly assembled components. This is particu-
larly true when only one rear wheel is involved.However, when both rear wheels are affected, the
master cylinder or ABS system could be at fault.
BRAKES DO NOT HOLD AFTER DRIVING THROUGH DEEP
WATER PUDDLES
This condition is generally caused by water soaked
lining. If the lining is only wet, it can be dried by
driving with the brakes very lightly applied for a
mile or two. However, if the lining is both soaked and
dirt contaminated, cleaning and or replacement will
be necessary.
BRAKE LINING CONTAMINATION
Brake lining contamination is mostly a product of
leaking calipers or worn seals, driving through deep
water puddles, or lining that has become covered with
grease and grit during repair. Contaminated lining
should be replaced to avoid further brake problems.
WHEEL AND TIRE PROBLEMS
Some conditions attributed to brake components
may actually be caused by a wheel or tire problem.
A damaged wheel can cause shudder, vibration and
pull. A worn or damaged tire can also cause pull.
NOTE: Propshaft angle can also cause vibration/
shudder.
Severely worn tires with very little tread left can
produce a grab-like condition as the tire loses and
recovers traction. Flat-spotted tires can cause vibra-
tion and generate shudder during brake operation.
Tire damage such as a severe bruise, cut, ply separa-
tion, low air pressure can cause pull and vibration.
BRAKE NOISES
Some brake noise is common on some disc brakes
during the first few stops after a vehicle has been
parked overnight or stored. This is primarily due to
the formation of trace corrosion (light rust) on metal
surfaces. This light corrosion is typically cleared from
the metal surfaces after a few brake applications
causing the noise to subside.
BRAKE SQUEAK/SQUEAL
Brake squeak or squeal may be due to linings that
are wet or contaminated with brake fluid, grease, or oil.
Glazed linings and rotors with hard spots can also con-
tribute to squeak. Dirt and foreign material embedded
in the brake lining will also cause squeak/squeal.
A very loud squeak or squeal is frequently a sign of
severely worn brake lining. If the lining has worn
through to the brake shoes in spots, metal-to-metal
contact occurs. If the condition is allowed to continue,
rotors may become so scored that replacement is nec-
essary.
5 - 4 BRAKES - BASEWJ
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

(8) Secure caliper to nearby suspension part with
wire.Do not allow brake hose to support caliper
weight.
(9) Remove the inboard brake shoe from the cali-
per (Fig. 12).
(10) Remove the outboard brake shoe (Fig. 13)
from the caliper anchor.REMOVAL - REAR DISC BRAKE SHOES
(1) Raise and support vehicle.
(2) Remove rear wheel and tire assembly.
(3) Drain small amount of fluid from master cylin-
der brake reservoir with acleansuction gun.
(4) Bottom caliper pistons into the caliper by pry-
ing the caliper over (Fig. 14).
Fig. 11 Caliper Slide
1 - SLIDE PIN
2 - SLIDE PIN
3 - CALIPER
Fig. 12 Inboard Brake Shoe
1 - CALIPER
2 - INBOARD SHOE
Fig. 13 Outboard Brake Shoe
1 - CALIPER ANCHOR
2 - OUTBOARD BRAKE SHOE
Fig. 14 Bottoming Caliper Piston
1 - CALIPER
2 - CALIPER ANCHOR
5 - 12 BRAKES - BASEWJ
BRAKE PADS / SHOES (Continued)

(7) Raise and support the vehicle.
(8) Remove the wheel and tire assemblies.
(9) Remove the brake calipers, caliper anchors and
rotors.
(10) Remove the ABS sensor wiring harness (Fig.
74)from the rear brake cables.
(11) Remove the cable retainer bolts (Fig. 74) from
the rear spring pads.
(12) Pull the cables out of the upper suspension
arm brackets.
(13) Push the cable in and lift up the end of cable
with a small screw driver to disengage the cable from
the parking brake actuator (Fig. 75).
(14) Remove the cable from the vehicle.
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - FRONT PARKING BRAKE
CABLE
(1) Install thecable into the parking brake lever
bracket and equalizer bracket.
(2) Install the front cable to the floor pan and
install retainer nuts.
(3) Engage the front cable ends to the parking
brake lever and equalizer.
(4) Install the front carpet, (Refer to 23 - BODY/
INTERIOR/CARPETS AND FLOOR MATS -
INSTALLATION).
(5) Pull on the lever to release the lock out spring.
(6) Install the center console, (Refer to 23 - BODY/
INTERIOR/FLOOR CONSOLE - INSTALLATION).
(7) Fold down the rear carpet cover and rear seat.
INSTALLATION - REAR PARKING BRAKE
CABLES
(1) Install the cables through the caliper anchor
mount. Then push the end of cable strand in to
engage the cable end to the parking brake actuator.
(2) Feed the other end of the cables through the
body and into the equalizer bracket (Fig. 76).
Fig. 74 Left Rear Parking Brake Cable
1 - CABLE BRACKET
2 - UPPER SUSPENSION ARM
3 - PARKING BRAKE CABLE
4 - CABLE RETAINER
5 - ABS SENSOR WIRING
Fig. 75 Parking Brake
1 - CABLE END
2 - SCREW DRIVER
3 - PARKING BRAKE ACTUATOR
4 - BRAKE SHOES
Fig. 76 Equalizer Bracket
1 - EQUALIZER
2 - RIGHT REAR CABLE
3 - LEFT REAR CABLE
4 - FRONT CABLE
WJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 37
CABLES (Continued)

(3) Push the cables into the upper suspension arm
brackets.
(4) Install the cable retainer bolts to the rear
spring pads.
(5) Install the ABS sensor wiring harness to the
rear brake cables.
(6) Install the rotors, caliper anchors and brake
calipers.
(7) Install the wheel and tire assemblies.
(8) Remove support and lower the vehicle.
(9) Engage the cable ends into the parking brake
equalizer.
(10) Pull on the lever to release the lock out
spring.
(11) Install center console, (Refer to 23 - BODY/IN-
TERIOR/FLOOR CONSOLE - INSTALLATION).
(12) Fold down the rear carpet cover and rear seat.
(13) Verify parking brake operation.
LEVER
REMOVAL
(1) Remove center console,(Refer to 23 - BODY/IN-
TERIOR/FLOOR CONSOLE - REMOVAL).
(2) Lift up rear seat and carpet covering the park-
ing brake cables.
(3) Place a screw driver through the front cable
eyelet (Fig. 77) and pry back on the front cable.(4) Have an assistant pry down the lock out spring
through the hole in the side of the park brake lever
(Fig. 78) with a small screw driver. Then slowly
release the front cable.
NOTE: Their should be slack in the cable if the lock
out spring is engaged.
(5) Disconnect parking brake switch wiring con-
nector.
(6) Disengage front cable end from parking brake
lever.
(7) Compress the cable retainer with a 13 mm
wrench (Fig. 79) and remove the cable from the park-
ing brake lever bracket.
Fig. 77 FRONT CABLE
1 - REAR CABLES
2 - FRONT CABLE EYELET
3 - FRONT CABLE
4 - EQUALIZER
Fig. 78 Lock Out Spring
1 - LOCK OUT SPRING
Fig. 79 Parking Brake Lever Bracket
1 - FRONT CABLE
2 - WRENCH
5 - 38 BRAKES - BASEWJ
CABLES (Continued)

G-SWITCH
DESCRIPTION
The G-switch (Fig. 4) is located under the rear
seat. The switch has directional arrow and must be
mounted with the arrow pointing towards the front
of the vehicle.
OPERATION
The switch is monitored by the CAB at all times.
The switch contains three mercury switches which
monitor vehicle deceleration rates (G-force). Sudden
changes in deceleration rates trigger the switch,
sending a signal to the CAB.
REMOVAL
(1) Fold the rear seat bottom assembly up for
access to the switch.
(2) Lift up the carpeting and disconnect the switch
harness (Fig. 5).
(3) Remove the switch mounting bolts and remove
the switch.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: The mercury switch (inside the
G-Switch), will not function properly if the switch is
installed incorrectly. Verify that the switch locating
arrow is pointing to the front of the vehicle (Fig. 6).
(1) Note the position of the locating arrow on the
switch. Position the switch so the arrow faces for-
ward.
(2) Install the switch and tighten the mounting
bolts to 5.6 N´m (50 in. lbs.).
Fig. 2 Left Sensor Connector
1 - LEFT FRONT WHEEL SPEED SENSOR CONNECTOR
2 - ENGINE EXHAUST PIPE
3 - LEFT FRONT FRAME RAIL
4 - FRONT DRIVESHAFT
Fig. 3 Right Sensor Connector
1 - RIGHT FRONT WHEEL SPEED SENSOR CONNECTOR
2 - ENGINE EXHAUST Y-PIPE
3 - RIGHT FRONT FRAME RAIL
4 - RIGHT LOWER SUSPENSION ARM
Fig. 4 G-Switch
1 - SWITCH PART NUMBER
2 - ARROW INDICATES FRONT OF SWITCH FOR PROPER
MOUNTING
5 - 44 BRAKES - ABSWJ
FRONT WHEEL SPEED SENSOR (Continued)

(from rear of vehicle forward) to verify accuracy of
the line placement.
(4) Rock vehicle side-to-side three times to allow
suspension to stabilize.
(5) Jounce front suspension three times by pushing
downward on front bumper and releasing.
(6) Measure the distance from the center of head-
lamp lens to the floor. Transfer measurement to the
alignment screen (with tape). Use this line for
up/down adjustment reference.
(7) Measure distance from the centerline of the
vehicle to the center of each headlamp being aligned.
Transfer measurements to screen (with tape) to each
side of vehicle centerline. Use these lines for left/
right adjustment reference.
HEADLAMP ADJUSTMENT
A properly aimed low beam will project the top
edge of the beam intensity pattern on the screen
from 25 mm (1 in.) above to 75 mm (3 in.) below
headlamp centerline. The side-to-side left edge of the
beam intensity pattern should be from 50 mm (2 in.)
left to 50 mm (2 in.) right of headlamp centerline
(Fig. 17).
(1) Clean front of the headlamps.
(2) Place headlamps on LOW beam.(3) Cover front of the headlamp that is not being
adjusted.
(4) Turn adjustment screw (Fig. 18) and (Fig. 19)
until the top edge of the beam intensity pattern is
positioned within 25 mm (1 in.) above or 75 mm (3
in.) below the headlamp horizontal centerline.
(5) Cover front of the headlamp and adjust the
other headlamp beam as instructed below.
(6) Rotate the adjustment screw until the top edge
of the beam intensity pattern is positioned within 25
mm (1 in.) above or 75 mm (3 in.) below the head-
lamp horizontal centerline.
LICENSE PLATE LAMP
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - BULB
(1) Remove lamp assembly from liftgate lamp mod-
ule.
(2) Rotate bulb socket counterclockwise to discon-
nect bulb socket from lamp.
(3) Remove bulb from socket.
Fig. 16 Headlamp Alignment ScreenÐTypical
1 - CENTER OF VEHICLE TO CENTER OF HEADLAMP LENS
2 - FLOOR TO CENTER OF HEADLAMP LENS
3 - 7.62 METERS (25 FEET)4 - FRONT OF HEADLAMP
5 - VEHICLE CENTERLINE
WJLAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIOR 8L - 17
HEADLAMP UNIT (Continued)

(3) Disconnect the two washer reservoir washer
hoses from the two engine compartment washer
hoses at the inline connectors located on the top of
the left front fender wheel house (Fig. 23).
(4) Open the washer reservoir filler cap and
unsnap the filler cap hinge from the hook on the
filler neck.
(5) Remove the one screw that secures the washer
reservoir filler neck to the left inner fender shield.
(6) Raise and support the vehicle.
(7) Remove the liner from the left front fender
wheel house.
(8) Disconnect the left headlamp and dash wire
harness connectors for the two washer pump/motor
units from the pump/motor connector receptacles
(Fig. 24).
(9) Remove the two screws that secure the inboard
mounting flange of the washer reservoir to the left
front inner wheel house.
(10) Pull the bottom of the washer reservoir rear-
ward far enough to access the left headlamp and
dash wire harness connector for the washer fluid
level switch on the front of the reservoir.
(11) Disconnect the left headlamp and dash wire
harness connector for the washer fluid level switch
from the switch connector receptacle.
(12) Pull the bottom of the washer reservoir rear-
ward far enough to disengage the outboard mounting
tab from the mounting slot on the left front inner
fender shield.(13) Rotate the washer reservoir far enough so
that the inboard mounting flange clears the front
suspension components, then lower the reservoir far
enough to disengage the filler neck from the hole in
the left front wheel house extension.
(14) Remove the washer reservoir from the left
front fender wheel house.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the washer reservoir into the left front
fender wheel house.
(2) Raise the washer reservoir filler neck through
the hole in the left front fender wheelhouse extension
into the engine compartment and rotate the reservoir
as needed to orient the inboard mounting flange over
the top of the front suspension components.
(3) Pull the bottom of the washer reservoir rear-
ward far enough to engage the outboard mounting
tab with the mounting slot in the left front inner
fender shield (Fig. 24).
(4) Pull the bottom of the washer reservoir rear-
ward far enough to access the washer fluid level
switch connector receptacle on the front of the reser-
voir.
(5) Reconnect the left headlamp and dash wire
harness connector for the washer fluid level switch to
the switch connector receptacle.
Fig. 23 Washer Reservoir Filler Neck Mounting
1 - WASHER RESERVOIR
2 - SCREW
3 - WASHER HOSES FROM PUMPS
4 - WASHER HOSES TO NOZZLES
5 - LEFT FENDER INNER SHIELD
Fig. 24 Washer Reservoir
1 - LEFT FENDER INNER SHIELD
2 - SCREW (2)
3 - WASHER PUMP WIRE HARNESS CONNECTORS
4 - WASHER FLUID LEVEL SWITCH WIRE HARNESS
CONNECTOR
5 - WASHER RESERVOIR
8R - 28 FRONT WIPERS/WASHERSWJ
WASHER RESERVOIR (Continued)