2003 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE gauge

Adapter 6790
Pinion Depth Set 6955
Bearing Dummy Set 6956
Gauge Block 8144
Shims Dummy 8107
Wrench Spanner 6958
Fixture Holding 6963-A
Remover 7794-A
Splitter Bearing 1130
Installer Gear/Bearing 7913-A
3 - 108 REAR AXLE - 226RBAWJ
REAR AXLE - 226RBA (Continued)

(8) Install Forcing Screw C-6960-4 and tighten
screw to 122 N´m (90 ft. lbs.) maximum to compress
Belleville springs in clutch packs (Fig. 62).
(9) With a feeler gauge remove thrust washers
from behind the pinion gears (Fig. 63).(10) Insert Turning Bar C-6960-2 into the pinion
mate shaft hole in the case (Fig. 64).
(11) Loosen the Forcing Screw in small increments
until the clutch pack tension is relieved and the dif-
ferential case can be turned using Turning Bar.
(12) Rotate differential case until the pinion gears
can be removed.
(13) Remove pinion gears from differential case.
(14) Remove Forcing Screw, Step Plate and
Threaded Adapter.
(15) Remove top side gear, clutch pack retainer
and clutch pack. Keep plates in correct order during
removal (Fig. 65).
(16) Remove differential case from the Holding
Fixture. Remove side gear, clutch pack retainer and
clutch pack. Keep plates in correct order during
removal.
CLEANING
Clean all components in cleaning solvent and dry
components with compressed air.
INSPECTION
Inspect clutch pack plates for wear, scoring or dam-
age. Replace both clutch packs if any one component
in either pack is damaged. Inspect side and pinion
gears for cracks chips or damage and replace as nec-
essary. Inspect differential case and pinion shaft and
replace if worn or damaged.
ASSEMBLY
Clean all components in cleaning solvent and dry
components with compressed air. Inspect clutch pack
plates for wear, scoring or damage. Replace both
clutch packs if any one component in either pack is
Fig. 62 COMPRESS BELLEVILLE SPRING
1 - TORQUE WRENCH
2 - TOOL ASSEMBLED
3 - DIFFERENTIAL CASE
Fig. 63 PINION GEAR THRUST WASHER
1 - THRUST WASHER
2 - FEELER GAUGE
Fig. 64 PINION GEARS
1 - PINION GEARS
2 - TURNING BAR
WJREAR AXLE - 226RBA 3 - 121
DIFFERENTIAL - TRAC-LOK (Continued)

STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - DOUBLE INVERTED
FLARING
A preformed metal brake tube is recommended and
preferred for all repairs. However, double-wall steel
tube can be used for emergency repair when factory
replacement parts are not readily available.
Special bending tools are needed to avoid kinking
or twisting of metal brake tubes. Special flaring tools
are needed to make a double inverted flare or ISO
flare.
(1) Cut off damaged tube with Tubing Cutter.
(2) Ream cut edges of tubing to ensure proper
flare.
(3) Install replacement tube nut on the tube.
(4) Insert tube in flaring tool.
(5) Place gauge form over the end of the tube.
(6) Push tubing through flaring tool jaws until
tube contacts recessed notch in gauge that matches
tube diameter.
(7) Tighten the tool bar on the tube
(8) Insert plug on gauge in the tube. Then swing
compression disc over gauge and center tapered flar-
ing screw in recess of compression disc (Fig. 4).
(9) Tighten tool handle until plug gauge is
squarely seated on jaws of flaring tool. This will start
the inverted flare.
(10) Remove the plug gauge and complete the
inverted flare.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ISO FLARING
A preformed metal brake tube is recommended and
preferred for all repairs. However, double-wall steel
tube can be used for emergency repair when factory
replacement parts are not readily available.
Special bending tools are needed to avoid kinking
or twisting of metal brake tubes. Special flaring tools
are needed to make a double inverted flare or ISO
flare.
To make a ISO flare use Snap-OntFlaring Tool
TFM-428 or equivalent.
(1) Cut off damaged tube with Tubing Cutter.
(2) Remove any burrs from the inside of the tube.
(3) Install tube nut on the tube.
(4) Position the tube in the flaring tool flush with
the top of the tool bar (Fig. 5). Then tighten the tool
bar on the tube.
(5) Install the correct size adaptor on the flaring
tool yoke screw.
(6) Lubricate the adaptor.
(7) Align the adaptor and yoke screw over the tube
(Fig. 5).
(8) Turn the yoke screw in until the adaptor is
squarely seated on the tool bar.
Fig. 4 Inverted
Fig. 5 ISO Flaring
1 - ADAPTER
2 - LUBRICATE HERE
3 - PILOT
4 - FLUSH WITH BAR
5 - TUBING
6 - BAR ASSEMBLY
WJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 9
BRAKE LINES (Continued)

OPERATION
The master cylinder bore contains a primary and
secondary piston. The primary piston supplies
hydraulic pressure to the front brakes. The secondary
piston supplies hydraulic pressure to the rear brakes.
The master cylinder reservoir stores reserve brake
fluid for the hydraulic brake circuits.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - MASTER
CYLINDER/POWER BOOSTER
NOTE: Inspect and repair any external fluid leaks
before performing test.
(1) Start engine and check booster vacuum hose
connections. A hissing noise indicates vacuum leak.
Correct any vacuum leak before proceeding.
(2)
Stop engine and shift transmission into Neutral.
(3) Pump brake pedal until all vacuum reserve in
booster is depleted.
(4) Press and hold brake pedal under light foot
pressure. The pedal should hold firm, if the pedal
falls away the master cylinder or HCU may be faulty
(internal leakage).
(5) Start engine and note pedal action. It should
fall away slightly under light foot pressure then hold
firm. If no pedal action is discernible, power booster,
vacuum supply, or vacuum check valve is faulty. Pro-
ceed to the POWER BOOSTER VACUUM TEST.
(6) If the POWER BOOSTER VACUUM TEST
passes, rebuild booster vacuum reserve as follows:
Release brake pedal. Increase engine speed to 1500
rpm, close the throttle and turn off the engine.
(7) Wait a minimum of 90 seconds and try brake
action again. Booster should provide two or more vac-
uum assisted pedal applications. If vacuum assist is
not provided, some component of the booster is faulty.
POWER BOOSTER VACUUM TEST
(1) Connect vacuum gauge to booster check valve
with short length of hose and T-fitting (Fig. 48).
(2) Start and run engine at curb idle speed for one
minute.
(3) Observe the vacuum supply. If vacuum supply
is not adequate, repair vacuum supply.
(4) Clamp hose shut between vacuum source and
check valve.
(5) Stop engine and observe vacuum gauge.
(6) If vacuum drops more than one inch HG (33
millibars) within 15 seconds, booster diaphragm,
check valve or check valve seal/grommet is faulty.
POWER BOOSTER CHECK VALVE TEST
(1) Disconnect vacuum hose from check valve.
(2)
Remove check valve and valve seal from booster.
(3) Use a hand operated vacuum pump for test.(4) Apply 51-67 kPa (15-20 in.) vacuum at large
end of check valve (Fig. 49).
(5) Vacuum should hold steady. If gauge on pump
indicates vacuum loss the check valve and seal
should be replaced.
Fig. 48 Typical Booster Vacuum Test Connections
1 - TEE FITTING
2 - SHORT CONNECTING HOSE
3 - CHECK VALVE
4 - CHECK VALVE HOSE
5 - CLAMP TOOL
6 - INTAKE MANIFOLD
7 - VACUUM GAUGE
Fig. 49 Vacuum Check Valve And Seal
1 - BOOSTER CHECK VALVE
2 - APPLY TEST VACUUM HERE
3 - VALVE SEAL
5 - 24 BRAKES - BASEWJ
MASTER CYLINDER (Continued)

²SLIGHT TAIL WIND AT IDLE
²SLOW TRAFFIC
²TRAFFIC JAMS
²HIGH SPEED
²STEEP GRADES
Driving techniques that avoid overheating are:
²Idle with A/C off when temperature gauge is at
end of normal range.
²Increase engine speed for more air flow is recom-
mended.(1) TRAILER TOWING:
Consult Trailer Towing section of owners manual.
Do not exceed limits.
(2) AIR CONDITIONING; ADD-ON OR AFTER
MARKET:
A maximum cooling package should have been
ordered with vehicle if add-on or after market A/C is
installed. If not, maximum cooling system compo-
nents should be installed for model involved per
manufacturer's specifications.
(3) RECENT SERVICE OR ACCIDENT REPAIR:
Determine if any recent service has been per-
formed on vehicle that may effect cooling system.
This may be:
²Engine adjustments (incorrect timing)
²Slipping engine accessory drive belt(s)
²Brakes (possibly dragging)
²Changed parts. Incorrect water pump, or pump
rotating in wrong direction due to belt not correctly
routed
²Reconditioned radiator or cooling system refill-
ing (possibly under filled or air trapped in system).
NOTE: If investigation reveals none of the previous
items as a cause for an engine overheating com-
plaint, refer to following Cooling System Diagnosis
charts.
These charts are to be used as a quick-reference
only. Refer to the group text for information.
Fig. 4 Spring Clamp Size Location
1 - SPRING CLAMP SIZE LOCATION
7 - 4 COOLINGWJ
COOLING (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - COOLING SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS CHART
COOLING SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS CHART
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
TEMPERATURE GAUGE
READS LOW1. Has a Diagnostic Trouble Code
(DTC) been set indicating a stuck
open thermostat?1. Refer to (Refer to 25 - EMISSIONS
CONTROL - DESCRIPTION) for On-Board
Diagnostics and DTC information. Replace
thermostat if necessary.
2. Is the temperature sending unit
connected?2. Check the temperature sensor connector.
(Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/ENGINE
COOLANT TEMP SENSOR -
DESCRIPTION). Repair connector if
necessary.
3. Is the temperature gauge
operating OK?3. Check gauge operation. Repair as
necessary.
4. Coolant level low in cold ambient
temperatures accompanied with
poor heater performance.4. Check coolant level in the coolant
reserve/overflow tank and the radiator.
Inspect system for leaks. Repair leaks as
necessary.
5. Improper operation of internal
heater doors or heater controls.5. Inspect heater and repair as necessary.
(Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR
CONDITIONING - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING)
TEMPERATURE GAUGE
READS HIGH OR THE
COOLANT LAMP
ILLUMINATES.
COOLANT MAY OR MAY
NOT BE LOST OR
LEAKING FROM THE
COOLING SYSTEM1. Trailer is being towed, a steep hill
is being climbed, vehicle is operated
in slow moving traffic, or engine is
being idled with very high ambient
(outside) temperatures and the air
conditioning is on. Higher altitudes
could aggravate these conditions.1. This may be a temporary condition and
repair is not necessary. Turn off the air
conditioning and attempt to drive the vehicle
without any of the previous conditions.
Observe the temperature gauge. The gauge
should return to the normal range. If the
gauge does not return to the normal range,
determine the cause for overheating and
repair.
2. Is the temperature gauge reading
correctly?2. Check gauge. (Refer to Group 8J -
INSTRUMENT CLUSTER). Repair as
necessary.
3. Is the temperature warning
illuminating unnecessarily?3. Check warning lamp operation. (Refer to
Group 8J - INSTRUMENT CLUSTER).Repair
as necessary.
4. Coolant low in coolant reserve/
overflow tank and radiator?4. Check for coolant leaks and repair as
necessary. (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
5. Pressure cap not installed tightly.
If cap is loose, boiling point of
coolant will be lowered. Also refer to
the following Step 6.5. Tighten cap
WJCOOLING 7 - 5
COOLING (Continued)

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
17. Viscous fan drive not operating
properly.17. Check fan drive operation and replace as
necessary. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/
FAN DRIVE VISCOUS CLUTCH -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
18. Cylinder head gasket leaking. 18. Check for cylinder head gasket leaks.
(Refer to 7 - COOLING - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING). For repair, (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD - REMOVAL).
19. Heater core leaking. 19. Check heater core for leaks. (Refer to 24
- HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/
PLUMBING/HEATER CORE - REMOVAL).
Repair as necessary.
20. Hydraulic fan speed too low or
inopertive.20. Check for
DTC code.
Check fan operation speeds.
Refer to fan speed operation table.
Low power steering pump output. Refer to
power steering pump diagnosis - 4.7L engine.
TEMPERATURE GAUGE
READING IS
INCONSISTENT
(FLUCTUATES, CYCLES
OR IS ERRATIC)1. During cold weather operation,
with the heater blower in the high
position, the gauge reading may
drop slightly.1. A normal condition. No correction is
necessary.
2. Temperature gauge or engine
mounted gauge sensor defective or
shorted. Also, corroded or loose
wiring in this circuit.2. Check operation of gauge and repair if
necessary. Refer to Group 8J, Instrument
cluster.
3. Gauge reading rises when vehicle
is brought to a stop after heavy use
(engine still running)3. A normal condition. No correction is
necessary. Gauge should return to normal
range after vehicle is driven.
4. Gauge reading high after
re-starting a warmed up (hot)
engine.4. A normal condition. No correction is
necessary. The gauge should return to
normal range after a few minutes of engine
operation.
5. Coolant level low in radiator (air
will build up in the cooling system
causing the thermostat to open late).5. Check and correct coolant leaks. (Refer to
7 - COOLING - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
6. Cylinder head gasket leaking
allowing exhaust gas to enter
cooling system causing a thermostat
to open late.6. (a) Check for cylinder head gasket leaks.
(Refer to 7 - COOLING - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING).
(b) Check for coolant in the engine oil.
Inspect for white steam emitting from the
exhaust system. Repair as necessary.
WJCOOLING 7 - 7
COOLING (Continued)

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
7. Water pump impeller loose on
shaft.7. Check water pump and replace as
necessary. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/
WATER PUMP - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING).
8. Loose accessory drive belt. (water
pump slipping)8. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ACCESSORY
DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING). Check and correct as necessary.
9. Air leak on the suction side of the
water pump allows air to build up in
cooling system causing thermostat
to open late.9. Locate leak and repair as necessary.
PRESSURE CAP IS
BLOWING OFF STEAM
AND/OR COOLANT TO
COOLANT TANK.
TEMPERATURE GAUGE
READING MAY BE
ABOVE NORMAL BUT
NOT HIGH. COOLANT
LEVEL MAY BE HIGH IN
COOLANT RESERVE/
OVERFLOW TANK1. Pressure relief valve in radiator
cap is defective.1. Check condition of radiator cap and cap
seals. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/
RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING). Replace cap as necessary.
COOLANT LOSS TO THE
GROUND WITHOUT
PRESSURE CAP
BLOWOFF. GAUGE
READING HIGH OR HOT1. Coolant leaks in radiator, cooling
system hoses, water pump or
engine.1. Pressure test and repair as necessary.
(Refer to 7 - COOLING - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING).
DETONATION OR
PRE-IGNITION (NOT
CAUSED BY IGNITION
SYSTEM). GAUGE MAY
OR MAY NOT BE
READING HIGH1. Engine overheating. 1. Check reason for overheating and repair
as necessary.
2. Freeze point of coolant not
correct. Mixture is too rich or too
lean.2. Check coolant concentration. (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ENGINE/COOLANT -
DESCRIPTION) and adjust ratio as required.
HOSE OR HOSES
COLLAPSE WHILE
ENGINE IS RUNNING1. Vacuum created in cooling system
on engine cool-down is not being
relieved through coolant reserve/
overflow system.1. (a) Radiator cap relief valve stuck. (Refer
to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/RADIATOR
PRESSURE CAP - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING). Replace if necessary
(b) Hose between coolant reserve/overflow
tank and radiator is kinked. Repair as
necessary.
(c) Vent at coolant reserve/overflow tank is
plugged. Clean vent and repair as necessary.
(d) Reserve/overflow tank is internally
blocked or plugged. Check for blockage and
repair as necessary.
7 - 8 COOLINGWJ
COOLING (Continued)