2003 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE flat tow

along the left roof side rail to the rear of the vehicle.
At the rear of the vehicle, the headliner hose is
routed above the headliner and along the upper lift-
gate opening panel toward the right side of the vehi-
cle. The headliner hose then passes through a hole
with a rubber grommet in the upper liftgate opening
panel and through another hole with a rubber grom-
met into the upper inner liftgate panel to the rear
washer nozzle.
Washer hose is available for service only as roll
stock, which must then be cut to length. The head-
liner washer hose is integral to the headliner unit
and, if faulty or damaged, the headliner unit must be
replaced. The molded plastic washer hose fittings
cannot be repaired. If these fittings are faulty or
damaged, they must be replaced.
OPERATION
Washer fluid in the washer reservoir is pressurized
and fed by the rear washer pump/motor through the
rear washer system plumbing and fittings to the rear
washer nozzle on the liftgate outer panel above the
liftgate glass. Whenever routing the washer hose or a
wire harness containing a washer hose, it must be
routed away from hot, sharp, or moving parts; and,
sharp bends that might pinch the hose must be
avoided.
REAR WASHER NOZZLE
DESCRIPTION
The rear washer nozzle is a fluidic type unit that
includes an integral check valve (Fig. 3). The nozzle
is constructed of molded plastic and has a rubber
seal and integral snap features on the back of it. The
nozzle is secured by a snap fit in a dedicated mount-
ing hole in the liftgate outer panel above the liftgate
flip-up glass. Within the rear nozzle body, a small
check ball is held against an integral valve seat at
the inlet end of the nozzle by a small coiled spring.
The rear washer nozzle and check valve unit cannot
be adjusted or repaired. If faulty or damaged, the
entire nozzle and check valve unit must be replaced.
OPERATION
The rear washer nozzle is designed to dispense
washer fluid into the wiper pattern area on the out-
side of the liftgate glass. Pressurized washer fluid is
fed to the nozzle from the washer reservoir by the
rear washer pump/motor through a single hose,
which is attached to a barbed nipple on the back of
the rear washer nozzle. The rear washer nozzle
incorporates a fluidic design, which causes the nozzle
to emit the pressurized washer fluid as an oscillating
stream to more effectively cover a larger area of the
glass area to be cleaned. The integral rear nozzle
check valve prevents washer fluid from draining out
of the rear washer supply hoses back to the washer
reservoir. This drain-back would result in a lengthy
delay from when the rear washer switch is actuated
until washer fluid was dispensed through the rear
washer nozzle, because the rear washer pump would
have to refill the rear washer plumbing from the res-
ervoir to the nozzle. The check valve also prevents
washer fluid from siphoning through the rear washer
nozzle after the rear washer system is turned Off.
When the rear washer pump pressurizes and pumps
washer fluid from the reservoir through the rear
washer plumbing, the fluid pressure overrides the
spring pressure applied to the check ball within the
valve and unseats the check ball, allowing washer
fluid to flow to the rear washer nozzle. When the
rear washer pump stops operating, spring pressure
seats the check ball in the valve and fluid flow in
either direction within the rear washer plumbing is
prevented.
REMOVAL
The check valve for the rear washer nozzle is inte-
gral to the nozzle.
(1) Using a trim stick or another suitable wide
flat-bladed tool, gently pry at the sides of the rear
washer nozzle to release the snap features that
secure it in the mounting hole of the liftgate outer
panel.
Fig. 3 Rear Washer Nozzle
1 - HEADLINER WASHER HOSE
2 - ROOF PANEL
3 - REAR WASHER NOZZLE
4 - LIFTGATE
WJREAR WIPERS/WASHERS 8R - 39
REAR WASHER HOSES/TUBES (Continued)

(9) Remove the PDC and the right headlamp and
dash wire harness from the engine compartment as a
unit.
DISASSEMBLY
POWER DISTRIBUTION CENTER DISASSEMBLY
PDC HOUSING LOWER COVER REMOVAL
The Power Distribution Center (PDC) cover, the
PDC housing lower cover, the PDC relay wedges, the
PDC relay cassettes and the PDC B(+) terminal stud
module are available for service replacement. The
PDC cover can be simply unlatched and removed
from the PDC housing without the PDC being
removed or disassembled. Service of the remaining
PDC components requires that the PDC be removed
from its mounting and disassembled. Refer toWiring
Repairin Wiring Diagrams for the location of the
wiring repair procedures.
(1) Remove the battery from the battery support.
Refer toBattery Systemfor the location of the bat-
tery removal procedures.
(2) Unlatch and remove the cover from the PDC.
(3) Remove the two nuts that secure the two-holed
eyelet of the battery wire harness PDC take out to
the B(+) terminal studs near the front of the PDC.
(4) Remove the battery wire harness PDC take out
eyelet from the two PDC B(+) terminal studs.
(5) Disengage the latches on the PDC housing
mounts from the tabs on the PDC mounting stan-
chions on the battery support, and pull the PDC
housing upward to disengage the mounts from the
stanchions.
(6) Where the right headlamp and dash wire har-
ness exits the PDC, remove the tape that secures the
wire harness to the trough formation on the PDC
housing lower cover.
(7) Using a trim stick or another suitable wide
flat-bladed tool, gently pry the latches on each side
and the front of the PDC housing that secure the
housing lower cover to the PDC and remove the
housing lower cover (Fig. 10).
PDC B+ TERMINAL MODULE REMOVAL
The Power Distribution Center (PDC) cover, the
PDC housing lower cover, the PDC relay wedges, the
PDC relay cassettes and the PDC B(+) terminal stud
module are available for service replacement. The
PDC cover can be simply unlatched and removed
from the PDC housing without the PDC being
removed or disassembled. Service of the remaining
PDC components requires that the PDC be removed
from its mounting and disassembled. Refer toWiring
Repairin Wiring Diagrams for the location of the
wiring repair procedures.(1) Remove the PDC housing lower cover.
(2) From the top of the PDC housing, use a small
screwdriver or a terminal pick tool (Special Tool Kit
6680) to release the two latches that secure the B(+)
terminal module in the PDC.
(3) Gently and evenly press the two B(+) terminal
studs down through the bus bar in the PDC.
(4) From the bottom of the PDC housing, remove
the B(+) terminal module from the PDC.
PDC RELAY WEDGE REMOVAL
The Power Distribution Center (PDC) cover, the
PDC housing lower cover, the PDC relay wedges, the
PDC relay cassettes and the PDC B(+) terminal stud
module are available for service replacement. The
PDC cover can be simply unlatched and removed
from the PDC housing without the PDC being
removed or disassembled. Service of the remaining
PDC components requires that the PDC be removed
from its mounting and disassembled. Refer toWiring
Repairin Wiring Diagrams for the location of the
wiring repair procedures.
(1) Remove the PDC housing lower cover.
(2) Remove each of the relays from the PDC relay
wedge to be removed.
(3) From the bottom of the PDC housing, use a
small screwdriver or a terminal pick tool (Special
Fig. 10 PDC Housing Lower Cover Remove/Install -
Typical
1 - TROUGH FORMATION
2 - LATCHES (5)
3 - PDC HOUSING LOWER COVER
4 - WIRE HARNESS
WJ8W-97 POWER DISTRIBUTION 8W - 97 - 9
POWER DISTRIBUTION CENTER (Continued)

CLEANING
Thoroughly clean the engine cylinder head and cyl-
inder block mating surfaces. Clean the intake and
engine exhaust manifold and engine cylinder head
mating surfaces. Remove all gasket material and car-
bon.
Check to ensure that no coolant or foreign material
has fallen into the tappet bore area.
Remove the carbon deposits from the combustion
chambers and top of the pistons.
INSPECTION
Use a straightedge and feeler gauge to check the
flatness of the engine cylinder head and block mating
surfaces.
INSTALLATION
NOTE: This procedure can be done with the engine
in or out of the vehicle.
The engine cylinder head gasket is a composition
gasket. The gasket is to be installed DRY.DO NOT
use a gasket sealing compound on the gasket.
If the engine cylinder head is to be replaced and
the original valves used, measure the valve stem
diameter. Only standard size valves can be used with
a service replacement engine cylinder head unless
the replacement head valve stem guide bores are
reamed to accommodate oversize valve stems.
Remove all carbon buildup and reface the valves.
(1) Remove the shop towels from the cylinder
bores. Coat the bores with clean engine oil.
(2) Position the engine cylinder head gasket (with
the numbers facing up) using the alignment dowels
in the cylinder block, to position the gasket.
CAUTION: Engine cylinder head bolts should be
reused only once. Replace the head bolts if they
were used before or if they have a paint dab on the
top of the bolt.
(3) With bolt No.14 held in place (tape around
bolt), install the engine cylinder head over the same
dowels used to locate the gasket. Remove the tape
from bolt No.14.
(4) Coat the threads of stud bolt No.11 with Loc-
tite 592 sealant, or equivalent.
(5) Tighten the engine cylinder head bolts in
sequence according to the following procedure (Fig.
10).
CAUTION: During the final tightening sequence,
bolt No.11 will be tightened to a lower torque than
the rest of the bolts. DO NOT overtighten bolt
No.11.(a) Tighten all bolts in sequence (1 through 14)
to 30 N´m (22 ft. lbs.) torque.
(b) Tighten all bolts in sequence (1 through 14)
to 61 N´m (45 ft. lbs.) torque.
(c) Check all bolts to verify they are set to 61
N´m (45 ft. lbs.) torque.
(d) Tighten bolts in sequence:
²Bolts 1 through 10 to 149 N´m (110 ft. lbs.)
torque.
²Bolt 11 to 135 N´m (100 ft. lbs.) torque.
²Bolts 12 through 14 to 149 N´m (110 ft. lbs.)
torque.
CYLINDER HEAD BOLTS
POSITION DESCRIPTION
1,4,5,12,13 1/2 in.-13 BOLT
8,9 1/2 in.-13 BOLT WITH DOWEL
POINT
2,3,6,7,10,11,14 1/2 in.-13 WITH 7/16 in.-14 STUD
END
All bolts are 12 point drives for rocker cover clearance
(e) Check all bolts in sequence to verify the cor-
rect torque.
(f) If not already done, clean and mark each bolt
with a dab of paint after tightening. Should you
encounter bolts which were painted in an earlier
service operation, replace them.
(6) Install the spark plugs (Refer to 8 - ELECTRI-
CAL/IGNITION CONTROL/SPARK PLUG - INSTAL-
LATION).
(7) Connect the temperature sending unit wire
connector.
(8) Install the ignition coil rail (Refer to 8 - ELEC-
TRICAL/IGNITION CONTROL/COIL RAIL -
INSTALLATION).
(9) Install the intake and exhaust manifolds (Refer
to 9 - ENGINE/MANIFOLDS/INTAKE MANIFOLD -
INSTALLATION).
(10) Install the fuel line.
(11) Attach the power steering pump and bracket.
Fig. 10 Engine Cylinder Head Bolt Tightening
Sequence
WJENGINE - 4.0L 9 - 21
CYLINDER HEAD (Continued)

INSPECTION
Replace the clutch discs if warped, worn, scored,
burned/charred, the lugs are damaged, or if the fac-
ing is flaking off. Replace the top and bottom pres-
sure plates if scored, warped, or cracked. Be sure the
driving lugs on the pressure and clutch plates are
also in good condition. The lugs must not be bent,
cracked or damaged in any way.
Replace the piston spring and wave spring if either
part is distorted, warped or broken.
Check the lug grooves in the clutch retainer. The
clutch and pressure plates should slide freely in the
slots. Replace the retainer if the grooves are worn or
damaged. Also check action of the check balls in the
retainer and piston. Each check ball must move
freely and not stick.
Replace the retainer bushing if worn, scored, or
doubt exists about bushing condition.
Inspect the piston and retainer seal surfaces for
nicks or scratches. Minor scratches can be removed
with crocus cloth. However, replace the piston and/or
retainer if the seal surfaces are seriously scored.
Check condition of the fiber thrust washer and
metal output shaft thrust washer. Replace either
washer if worn or damaged.
Check condition of the seal rings on the input shaft
and clutch retainer hub. Replace the seal rings only
if worn, distorted, or damaged. The input shaft front
seal ring is teflon with chamfered ends. The rear ring
is metal with interlocking ends.
Check the input shaft for wear, or damage. Replace
the shaft if worn, scored or damaged in any way.
ASSEMBLY
(1) Soak clutch discs in transmission fluid while
assembling other clutch parts.
(2) Install new seal rings on clutch retainer hub
and input shaft, if necessary, (Fig. 227) and (Fig.
228).
(a) Be sure clutch hub seal ring is fully seated in
groove and is not twisted.
(3) Lubricate splined end of input shaft and clutch
retainer with transmission fluid. Then press input
shaft into retainer (Fig. 229). Use a suitably sized
press tool to support retainer as close to input shaft
as possible.
(4) Install input shaft snap-ring (Fig. 226).
(5) Invert retainer and press input shaft in oppo-
site direction until snap-ring is seated.
(6) Install new seals on clutch piston. Be sure lip
of each seal faces interior of clutch retainer.
(7) Lubricate lip of piston seals with generous
quantity of MopartDoor Ease. Then lubricate
retainer hub and bore with light coat of transmission
fluid.
(8) Install clutch piston in retainer. Use twisting
motion to seat piston in bottom of retainer. A thin
strip of plastic (about 0.0209thick), can be used to
guide seals into place if necessary.
CAUTION: Never push the clutch piston straight in.
This will fold the seals over causing leakage and
clutch slip. In addition, never use any type of metal
tool to help ease the piston seals into place. Metal
tools will cut, shave, or score the seals.
(9) Install piston spring in retainer and on top of
piston (Fig. 230). Concave side of spring faces down-
ward (toward piston).
(10) Install wave spring in retainer (Fig. 230). Be
sure spring is completely seated in retainer groove.
(11) Install bottom pressure plate (Fig. 225).
Ridged side of plate faces downward (toward piston)
and flat side toward clutch pack.
(12) Install first clutch disc in retainer on top of
bottom pressure plate. Then install a clutch plate fol-
lowed by a clutch disc until entire clutch pack is
installed (4 discs and 3 plates are required) (Fig.
225).
(13) Install top pressure plate.
(14) Install selective snap-ring. Be sure snap-ring
is fully seated in retainer groove.
(15) Using a suitable gauge bar and dial indicator,
measure clutch pack clearance (Fig. 231).
(a) Position gauge bar across the clutch drum
with the dial indicator pointer on the pressure
plate (Fig. 231).
(b) Using two small screw drivers, lift the pres-
sure plate and release it.
Fig. 226 Removing Input Shaft Snap-Ring
1 - REAR CLUTCH RETAINER
2 - INPUT SHAFT SNAP-RING
3 - SNAP-RING PLIERS
21 - 120 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 42REWJ
REAR CLUTCH (Continued)

Wipe the governor pressure sensor and solenoid
valve with dry, lint free shop towels only. The O-rings
on the sensor and solenoid valve are the only service-
able components. Be sure the vent ports in the sole-
noid valve are open and not blocked by dirt or debris.
Replace the valve and/or sensor only when DRB scan
tool diagnosis indicates this is necessary. Or, if either
part has sustained physical damage (dented,
deformed, broken, etc.).
CAUTION: Do not turn the small screw at the end of
the solenoid valve for any reason. Turning the
screw in either direction will ruin solenoid calibra-
tion and result in solenoid failure. In addition, the
filter on the solenoid valve is NOT serviceable. Do
not try to remove the filter as this will damage the
valve housing.
INSPECTION
Inspect the throttle and manual valve levers and
shafts. Do not attempt to straighten a bent shaft or
correct a loose lever. Replace these components if
worn, bent, loose or damaged in any way.
Inspect all of the valve body mating surfaces for
scratches, nicks, burrs, or distortion. Use a straight-
edge to check surface flatness. Minor scratches may
be removed with crocus cloth using only very light
pressure.Minor distortion of a valve body mating surface
may be corrected by smoothing the surface with a
sheet of crocus cloth. Position the crocus cloth on a
surface plate, sheet of plate glass or equally flat sur-
face. If distortion is severe or any surfaces are
heavily scored, the valve body will have to be
replaced.
CAUTION: Many of the valves and plugs, such as
the throttle valve, shuttle valve plug, 1-2 shift valve
and 1-2 governor plug, are made of coated alumi-
num. Aluminum components are identified by the
dark color of the special coating applied to the sur-
face (or by testing with a magnet). Do not sand alu-
minum valves or plugs under any circumstances.
This practice could damage the special coating
causing the valves/plugs to stick and bind.
Inspect the valves and plugs for scratches, burrs,
nicks, or scores. Minor surface scratches on steel
valves and plugs can be removed with crocus cloth
butdo not round off the edges of the valve or
plug lands.Maintaining sharpness of these edges is
vitally important. The edges prevent foreign matter
from lodging between the valves and plugs and the
bore.
Inspect all the valve and plug bores in the valve
body. Use a penlight to view the bore interiors.
Replace the valve body if any bores are distorted or
scored. Inspect all of the valve body springs. The
springs must be free of distortion, warpage or broken
coils.
Check the two separator plates for distortion or
damage of any kind. Inspect the upper housing,
lower housing, 3-4 accumulator housing, and transfer
plate carefully. Be sure all fluid passages are clean
and clear. Check condition of the upper housing and
transfer plate check balls as well. The check balls
and ball seats must not be worn or damaged.
Trial fit each valve and plug in its bore to check
freedom of operation. When clean and dry, the valves
and plugs should drop freely into the bores.
Valve body bores do not change dimensionally with
use. If the valve body functioned correctly when new,
it will continue to operate properly after cleaning and
inspection. It should not be necessary to replace a
valve body assembly unless it is damaged in han-
dling.
The only serviceable valve body components are
listed below. The remaining valve body components
are serviced only as part of a complete valve body
assembly. Serviceable parts are:
²dual solenoid and harness assembly
²solenoid gasket
²solenoid case connector O-rings and shoulder
bolt
²switch valve and spring
Fig. 310 Accumulator Housing Components
1 - ACCUMULATOR PISTON
2 - 3-4 ACCUMULATOR HOUSING
3 - TEFLON SEALS
4 - PISTON SPRING
5 - COVER PLATE AND SCREWS
21 - 166 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 42REWJ
VALVE BODY (Continued)

(5) Install the manual selector shaft and retaining
screw. Tighten the manual selector shaft retaining
screw to 28 N´m (250 in.lbs.).
(6) Install the park pawl, spring, and shaft (Fig.
32).
(7) Install the park rod and e-clip (Fig. 32).
(8) Install the park rod guide and snap-ring (Fig.
32).
(9) Install a new dipstick tube seal using Seal
Installer 8254 (Fig. 33).
NOTE: Before final assembly of transmission cen-
terline, the 2C/4C clutch components should be
installed into position and measured as follows:
(10) Install the 2C reaction plate into the trans-
mission case (Fig. 34). The reaction plate is direc-
tional. The plate must be installed with the flat side
toward the front of the transmission.
(11) Install the 2C clutch pack into the transmis-
sion case (Fig. 34).(12) Install the flat 2C clutch snap-ring into the
transmission case (Fig. 34).
(13) Install the 4C retainer/bulkhead into the
transmission case. Make sure that the oil feed holes
are pointing toward the valve body area.
(14) Install the 4C retainer/bulkhead tapered
snap-ring into the transmission case. Make sure that
the open ends of the snap-ring are located in the case
opening toward the valve body area.
Fig. 32 Manual Shaft/Park Lock Components
1 - GUIDE
2 - SNAP-RING
3 - SHAFT
4 - SPRING
5 - PARK PAWL
6 - MANUAL SHAFT/LEVER
7 - PARK ROD
Fig. 33 Install Dipstick Tube Seal Using Tool 8254
1 - TOOL 8254
2 - SEAL
Fig. 34 Install 2C Clutch Pack
1 - SNAP-RING
2 - PLATE
3 - DISC
4 - REACTION PLATE
WJAUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 545RFE 21 - 191
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 545RFE (Continued)

(15) Using a feeler gauge through the opening in
the rear of the transmission case, measure the 2C
clutch pack clearance between the 2C reaction plate
and the transmission case at four different points.
The average of these measurements is the 2C clutch
pack clearance. The correct clutch clearance is 0.455-
1.335 mm (0.018-0.053 in.). The reaction plate is not
selective. If the clutch pack clearance is not within
specification, the reaction plate, all the friction discs,
and steels must be replaced.
(16) Remove the 4C retainer/bulkhead and all of
the 2C clutch components from the transmission
case.
(17) Install the low/reverse clutch assembly (Fig.
35). Make sure that the oil feed hole points toward
the valve body area and that the bleed orifice is
aligned with the notch in the rear of the transmis-
sion case.
(18) Install the snap-ring to hold the low/reverse
clutch retainer into the transmission case (Fig. 35).
The snap-ring is tapered and must be installed with
the tapered side forward. Once installed, verify that
the snap-ring is fully seated in the snap-ring groove.
(19) Air check the low/reverse clutch and verify
correct overrunning clutch operation.
(20) Install the number 12 bearing over the output
shaft and against the rear planetary gear set. The
flat side of the bearing goes toward the planetary
gearset and the raised tabs on the inner race should
face the rear of the transmission.(21) Install the reverse/input planetary assembly
through the low/reverse clutch assembly (Fig. 36).
(22) Install the park sprag onto the output shaft
(Fig. 37).
(23) Install the snap-ring to hold the park sprag
onto the output shaft (Fig. 38).
Fig. 35 Install Low/Reverse Clutch Retainer
1 - LOW/REVERSE OVERRUNNING CLUTCH ASSEMBLY
2 - SNAP-RING
Fig. 36 Install Input/Reverse Planetary Assembly
1 - INPUT/REVERSE PLANETARY ASSEMBLY
2 - BEARING NUMBER 9
3 - BEARING NUMBER 12
Fig. 37 Install Park Sprag Gear
1 - PARK SPRAG GEAR
21 - 192 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 545RFEWJ
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 545RFE (Continued)

(24) Install the 2C reaction plate into the trans-
mission case (Fig. 39). The reaction plate is direc-
tional. The plate must be installed with the flat side
toward the front of the transmission.
(25) Install the 2C clutch pack into the transmis-
sion case (Fig. 39).(26) Install the number 8 bearing inside the reac-
tion carrier with the outer race against the reaction
planetary carrier.
(27) Install the reaction planetary gear set and the
number 9 bearing, with the inner race against the
reaction planetary carrier, into the transmission case
(Fig. 40).
(28) Install the flat 2C clutch snap-ring into the
transmission case (Fig. 39).
(29) Install the reaction sun gear into the reaction
planetary gear set.Make surethe small shoulder is
facing the front of the transmission (Fig. 40).
(30) Install the number 7 bearing onto the reaction
sun gear with the inner race against the sun gear
(Fig. 40).
(31) Install the output shaft selective thrust plate
onto the reaction annulus with the oil grooves facing
the annulus gear and the tabs and notches aligned as
shown in (Fig. 41).
(32) Install the number 6 bearing against the out-
put shaft selective thrust plate with the flat side
against the thrust plate (Fig. 40) and the raised tabs
on the inner race facing the front of the transmis-
sion.
(33) Install the reaction annulus into the reaction
planetary gear set (Fig. 40).
(34) Install the 4C retainer/bulkhead into the
transmission case. Make sure that the oil feed holes
are pointing toward the valve body area. Rotate the
reaction annulus during the installation of the 4C
retainer/bulkhead to ease installation.
(35) Install the 4C retainer/bulkhead tapered
snap-ring into the transmission case (Fig. 42) with
the taper toward the front of the case. Make sure
that the open ends of the snap-ring are located in the
case opening toward the valve body area.
(36) Air check the 2C and 4C clutch operation.
Fig. 38 Install Park Sprag Snap-Ring
1 - SNAP-RING
Fig. 39 Install 2C Clutch Pack
1 - SNAP-RING
2 - PLATE
3 - DISC
4 - REACTION PLATE
WJAUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 545RFE 21 - 193
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 545RFE (Continued)