2003 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE drain

NOTE: If more than 380 N´m (280 ft. lbs.) torque is
required to crush the collapsible spacer, the spacer
is defective and must be replaced.
(7) Check rotating torque with an inch pound
torque wrench (Fig. 44). The rotating torque of the
pinion gear should be, the reading recorded during
removal plus an additional 0.56 N´m (5 in. lbs.).
(8)
Install propeller shaft with reference marks align.
(9) Install rear brake rotors and calipers.
(10) Add gear lubricant, if necessary.
(11) Install wheel and tire assemblies.
(12) Remove supports and lower vehicle.
DIFFERENTIAL
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support vehicle.
(2) Remove fill hole plug from the differential
housing cover.
(3) Remove differential housing cover and drain
fluid.
(4) Clean the housing cavity with flushing oil, light
engine oil or lint free cloth.
NOTE: Do not use water, steam, kerosene or gaso-
line for cleaning.
(5) Remove axle shafts.(6)
Note the reference letters stamped on the bearing
caps and housing machined sealing surface (Fig. 45).
(7) Loosen the differential bearing cap bolts.
(8) Position Spreader W-129-B with Adapter Kit
6987B on differential locating holes (Fig. 46). Install
holddown clamps and tighten the turnbuckle finger-
tight.
Fig. 44 PINION ROTATING TORQUE
1 - TORQUE WRENCH
2 - PINION YOKE
Fig. 45 BEARING CAP REFERENCE
1 - REFERENCE LETTERS
2 - REFERENCE LETTERS
Fig. 46 SPREADER LOCATION
1 - DIFFERENTIAL HOUSING
2 - DOWEL
3 - SAFETY HOLD DOWN
4 - SPREADER
5 - TURNBUCKLE
WJREAR AXLE - 226RBA 3 - 115
COLLAPSIBLE SPACER (Continued)

(12) Install cover and tighten bolts in a criss-cross
pattern to 41 N´m (30 ft. lbs.).
(13) Refill the differential with Mopar Hypoid
Gear Lubricant or equivalent to bottom of the fill
plug hole.
(14) Install fill hole plug.
(15) Remove support and lower the vehicle.
DIFFERENTIAL - TRAC-LOK
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
The most common problem is a chatter noise when
turning corners. Before removing the unit for repair,
drain, flush and refill the axle with the specified
lubricant. A container of Mopar Trac-loktLubricant
(friction modifier) should be added after repair ser-
vice or during a lubricant change.
After changing the lubricant, drive the vehicle and
make 10 to 12 slow, figure-eight turns. This maneu-
ver will pump lubricant through the clutches. This
will correct the condition in most instances. If the
chatter persists, clutch damage could have occurred.
DIFFERENTIAL TEST
The differential can be tested without removing the
differential case by measuring rotating torque. Make
sure brakes are not dragging during this measure-
ment.
(1) Place blocks in front and rear of both front
wheels.
(2) Raise one rear wheel until it is completely off
the ground.
(3) Engine off, transmission in neutral, and park-
ing brake off.
(4) Remove wheel and bolt Special Tool 6790 or
equivalent tool to studs.
(5) Use torque wrench on special tool to rotate
wheel and read rotating torque (Fig. 56).
(6) If rotating torque is less than 41 N´m (56 ft.
lbs.) or more than 271 N´m (200 ft. lbs.) on either
wheel the unit should be serviced.
DISASSEMBLY
(1) Clamp side gear Holding Fixture 6965 in a vise
and position the differential case on the Holding Fix-
ture (Fig. 57).
(2) Remove ring gear if the ring gear is to be
replaced. The Trac-loktdifferential can be serviced
with the ring gear installed.
Fig. 56 ROTATING TORQUE TEST
1 - SPECIAL TOOL WITH BOLT IN CENTER HOLE
2 - TORQUE WRENCH
Fig. 57 DIFFERENTIAL CASE FIXTURE
1 - HOLDING FIXTURE
2 - VISE
3 - DIFFERENTIAL
WJREAR AXLE - 226RBA 3 - 119
DIFFERENTIAL (Continued)

(2) If complaint was based on noise when braking,
check suspension components. Jounce front and rear
of vehicle and listen for noise that might be caused
by loose, worn or damaged suspension or steering
components.
(3) Inspect brake fluid level and condition. Note
that the brake reservoir fluid level will decrease in
proportion to normal lining wear.Also note that
brake fluid tends to darken over time. This is
normal and should not be mistaken for contam-
ination.
(a) If fluid level is abnormally low, look for evi-
dence of leaks at calipers, brake lines, master cyl-
inder, and HCU.
(b) If fluid appears contaminated, drain out a
sample to examine. System will have to be flushed
if fluid is separated into layers, or contains a sub-
stance other than brake fluid. The system seals,
cups, hoses, master cylinder, and HCU will also
have to be replaced after flushing. Use clean brake
fluid to flush the system.
(4) Check parking brake operation. Verify free
movement and full release of cables and lever. Also
note if vehicle was being operated with parking
brake partially applied.
(5) Check brake pedal operation. Verify that pedal
does not bind and has adequate free play. If pedal
lacks free play, check pedal and power booster for
being loose or for bind condition. Do not road test
until condition is corrected.
(6) Check booster vacuum check valve and hose.
(7) If components checked appear OK, road test
the vehicle.
ROAD TESTING
(1) If complaint involved low brake pedal, pump
pedal and note if it comes back up to normal height.
(2) Check brake pedal response with transmission
in neutral and engine running. Pedal should remain
firm under constant foot pressure.
(3) During road test, make normal and firm brake
stops in 25-40 mph range. Note faulty brake opera-
tion such as low pedal, hard pedal, fade, pedal pulsa-
tion, pull, grab, drag, noise, etc.
(4) Attempt to stop the vehicle with the parking
brake only (do not exceed 25 mph) and note grab,
drag, noise, etc.
PEDAL FALLS AWAY
A brake pedal that falls away under steady foot
pressure is generally the result of a system leak. The
leak point could be at a brake line, fitting, hose, or
caliper. If leakage is severe, fluid will be evident at
or around the leaking component.Internal leakage (seal by-pass) in the master cylin-
der caused by worn or damaged piston cups, may
also be the problem cause.
An internal leak in the ABS system may also be
the problem with no visual fluid leak.
LOW PEDAL
If a low pedal is experienced, pump the pedal sev-
eral times. If the pedal comes back up, the most
likely causes are worn linings, rotors, or calipers are
not sliding on the slide pins. The proper course of
action is to inspect and replace all worn component.
SPONGY PEDAL
A spongy pedal is most often caused by air in the
system. However substandard brake hoses can cause
a spongy pedal. The proper course of action is to
bleed the system, and replace substandard quality
brake hoses if suspected.
HARD PEDAL OR HIGH PEDAL EFFORT
A hard pedal or high pedal effort may be due to
lining that is water soaked, contaminated, glazed, or
badly worn. The power booster, check valve, check
valve seal/grommet or vacuum leak could also cause
a hard pedal or high pedal effort.
PEDAL PULSATION
Pedal pulsation is caused by components that are
loose, or beyond tolerance limits.
The primary cause of pulsation are disc brake
rotors with excessive lateral runout or thickness vari-
ation. Other causes are loose wheel bearings or cali-
pers and worn, damaged tires.
NOTE: Some pedal pulsation may be felt during
ABS activation.
BRAKE DRAG
Brake drag occurs when the lining is in constant
contact with the rotor or drum. Drag can occur at one
wheel, all wheels, fronts only, or rears only.
Drag is a product of incomplete brake release.
Drag can be minor or severe enough to overheat the
linings, rotors and park brake drums.
Minor drag will usually cause slight surface charring
of the lining. It can also generate hard spots in rotors
and park brake drums from the overheat-cool down pro-
cess. In most cases, the rotors, wheels and tires are
quite warm to the touch after the vehicle is stopped.
Severe drag can char the brake lining all the way
through. It can also distort and score rotors to the
point of replacement. The wheels, tires and brake
components will be extremely hot. In severe cases,
the lining may generate smoke as it chars from over-
heating.
WJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 3
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

shoe lining against the inner surface of the disc
brake rotor. At the same time, fluid pressure within
the piston bores forces the caliper to slide inward on
the slide pins. This action brings the outboard brake
shoe lining into contact with the outer surface of the
disc brake rotor.
Fluid pressure acting simultaneously on the pis-
tons and caliper to produces a strong clamping
action. When sufficient force is applied, friction will
stop the rotors from turning and bring the vehicle to
a stop.
Application and release of the brake pedal gener-
ates only a very slight movement of the caliper and
pistons. Upon release of the pedal, the caliper and
pistons return to a rest position. The brake shoes do
not retract an appreciable distance from the rotor. In
fact, clearance is usually at, or close to zero. The rea-
sons for this are to keep road debris from getting
between the rotor and lining and in wiping the rotor
surface clear each revolution.
The caliper piston seals control the amount of pis-
ton extension needed to compensate for normal lining
wear.
During brake application, the seals are deflected
outward by fluid pressure and piston movement (Fig.
8). When the brakes (and fluid pressure) are
released, the seals relax and retract the pistons.
The front outboard brake shoes have wear indica-
tors.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL- FRONT DISC BRAKE SHOES
(1) Raise and support vehicle.
(2) Remove wheel and tire assembly.(3) Drain small amount of fluid from master cylin-
der brake reservoir withcleansuction gun.
(4) Bottom caliper pistons into the caliper by pry-
ing the caliper over (Fig. 9).
(5) Remove the caliper support spring by prying
the spring out of the caliper (Fig. 10).
(6) Remove the caliper slide pin bushing caps and
remove the slide pins (Fig. 11).
(7) Remove caliper from the anchor.
Fig. 8 Lining Wear Compensation By Piston Seal
1 - PISTON
2 - CYLINDER BORE
3 - PISTON SEAL BRAKE PRESSURE OFF
4 - CALIPER HOUSING
5 - DUST BOOT
6 - PISTON SEAL BRAKE PRESSURE ON
Fig. 9 Bottoming Caliper Piston
1 - ROTOR
2 - CALIPER
Fig. 10 Caliper Support Spring
1 - SUPPORT SPRING
2 - CALIPER
WJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 11
BRAKE PADS / SHOES (Continued)

(8) Secure caliper to nearby suspension part with
wire.Do not allow brake hose to support caliper
weight.
(9) Remove the inboard brake shoe from the cali-
per (Fig. 12).
(10) Remove the outboard brake shoe (Fig. 13)
from the caliper anchor.REMOVAL - REAR DISC BRAKE SHOES
(1) Raise and support vehicle.
(2) Remove rear wheel and tire assembly.
(3) Drain small amount of fluid from master cylin-
der brake reservoir with acleansuction gun.
(4) Bottom caliper pistons into the caliper by pry-
ing the caliper over (Fig. 14).
Fig. 11 Caliper Slide
1 - SLIDE PIN
2 - SLIDE PIN
3 - CALIPER
Fig. 12 Inboard Brake Shoe
1 - CALIPER
2 - INBOARD SHOE
Fig. 13 Outboard Brake Shoe
1 - CALIPER ANCHOR
2 - OUTBOARD BRAKE SHOE
Fig. 14 Bottoming Caliper Piston
1 - CALIPER
2 - CALIPER ANCHOR
5 - 12 BRAKES - BASEWJ
BRAKE PADS / SHOES (Continued)

(8) Install wheel and tire assembly.
(9) Remove support and lower vehicle.
(10) Pump brake pedal until caliper pistons and
brake shoes are seated and a firm brake pedal is
obtained.
(11) Fill brake fluid.
INSTALLATION - REAR DISC BRAKE SHOES
(1) Install the inboard brake shoe onto the caliper
(Fig. 17).
(2) Install the outboard brake shoe onto the caliper
anchor (Fig. 18).
(3) Lubricate the slide pins and slide pin bushings
with Dow Corningtgrease G807 or the grease pro-
vided with the brake shoes.
(4) Install caliper on the anchor.
(5) Install the caliper slide pin and tighten to
29-41 N´m (21-30 ft. lbs.).
(6) Install the caliper slide pin bushing caps.
(7) Install the caliper support spring in the top
end of the caliper and under the anchor. Then installother end into the lower caliper hole. Hold the spring
into the caliper hole with your thumb while prying
the end of the spring out and down under the anchor
with a screw drive.
(8) Install wheel and tire assembly.
(9) Remove support and lower vehicle.
(10) Pump brake pedal until caliper piston and
brake shoes are seated and a firm brake pedal is
obtained.
(11) Fill brake fluid level if necessary.
DISC BRAKE CALIPERS
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - FRONT DISC BRAKE CALIPER
(1) Raise and support vehicle.
(2) Remove front wheel and tire assembly.
(3) Drain small amount of fluid from master cylin-
der brake reservoir withcleansuction gun.
(4) Bottom caliper pistons into the caliper by pry-
ing the caliper over (Fig. 19).
Fig. 18 Outboard Brake Shoe
1 - OUTBOARD BRAKE SHOE
2 - CALIPER ANCHOR
3 - ROTOR
Fig. 19 Bottoming Caliper Piston
1 - ROTOR
2 - CALIPER
5 - 14 BRAKES - BASEWJ
BRAKE PADS / SHOES (Continued)

(5) Remove brake hose banjo bolt and gasket
washers. Discard gasket washers.
(6) Remove the caliper support spring by prying
the spring out of the caliper (Fig. 20).
(7) Remove the caliper slide pin bushing caps and
remove the slide pins (Fig. 21).
(8) Remove caliper from the anchor.
(9) Remove the inboard brake shoe (Fig. 22).
REMOVAL - REAR DISC BRAKE CALIPER
(1) Raise and support vehicle.
(2) Remove rear wheel and tire assembly.
(3) Drain small amount of fluid from master cylin-
der brake reservoir with acleansuction gun.
(4) Bottom caliper pistons into the caliper by pry-
ing the caliper over (Fig. 23).
Fig. 20 Caliper Support Spring
1 - SUPPORT SPRING
2 - CALIPER
Fig. 21 Slide Pins
1 - SLIDE PIN
2 - SLIDE PIN
3 - CALIPER
Fig. 22 Inboard Brake Shoe
1 - CALIPER
2 - INBOARD SHOE
Fig. 23 Bottoming Caliper Piston
1 - CALIPER
2 - CALIPER ANCHOR
WJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 15
DISC BRAKE CALIPERS (Continued)

DISASSEMBLY
DISASSEMBLY - FRONT DISC BRAKE CALIPER
(1) Drain the brake fluid from caliper.
(2) C-clamp a block of wood over one piston (Fig.
27).
(3) Take another piece of wood and pad it with
one-inch thickness of shop towels. Place this piece in
the outboard shoe side of the caliper in front of the
other piston. This will cushion and protect caliper
piston during removal (Fig. 28).(4) To remove the caliper piston directshort
bursts of low pressure airwith a blow gun
through the caliper brake hose port. Use only enough
air pressure to ease the piston out.
CAUTION: Do not blow the piston out of the bore
with sustained air pressure. This could result in a
cracked piston.
WARNING: NEVER ATTEMPT TO CATCH THE PIS-
TON AS IT LEAVES THE BORE. THIS COULD
RESULT IN PERSONAL INJURY.
(5) Remove the C-clamp and block of wood from
the caliper and clamp it over the dust boot of the
first piston removed. This will seal the empty piston
bore.
(6) Move the padded piece of wood in front of the
other piston.
(7) Remove the second piston using the same pro-
cedure withshort bursts of low pressure air.
(8) Remove piston dust boots with a suitable pry
tool (Fig. 29)and discard.
Fig. 27 C-Clamp One Piston
1 - BLOCK OF WOOD
2 - C-CLAMP
3 - CALIPER
Fig. 28 Protect Caliper Piston
1 - CALIPER
2 - PADDED BLOCK OF WOOD
3 - C-CLAMP
Fig. 29 Piston Dust Boot Removal
1 - CALIPER
2 - PISTON DUST BOOT
WJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 17
DISC BRAKE CALIPERS (Continued)