DRIVELINE SNAP
A snap or clunk noise when the vehicle is shifted
into gear (or the clutch engaged), can be caused by:
²High engine idle speed.
²Transmission shift operation.
²Loose engine/transmission/transfer case mounts.
²Worn U-joints.
²Loose spring mounts.
²Loose pinion gear nut and yoke.²Excessive ring gear backlash.
²Excessive side gear to case clearance.
The source of a snap or a clunk noise can be deter-
mined with the assistance of a helper. Raise the vehi-
cle on a hoist with the wheels free to rotate. Instruct
the helper to shift the transmission into gear. Listen
for the noise, a mechanics stethoscope is helpful in
isolating the source of a noise.
DIAGNOSTIC CHART
Condition Possible Causes Correction
Wheel Noise 1. Wheel loose. 1. Tighten loose nuts.
2. Faulty, brinelled wheel bearing. 2. Replace bearing.
Axle Shaft Noise 1. Misaligned axle tube. 1. Inspect axle tube alignment.
Correct as necessary.
2. Bent or sprung axle shaft. 2. Inspect and correct as necessary.
3. End-play in pinion bearings. 3. Refer to pinion pre-load
information and correct as
necessary.
4. Excessive gear backlash
between the ring gear and pinion.4. Check adjustment of the ring
gear and pinion backlash. Correct
as necessary.
5. Improper adjustment of pinion
gear bearings.5. Adjust the pinion bearings
pre-load.
6. Loose pinion yoke nut. 6. Tighten the pinion yoke nut.
7. Scuffed gear tooth contact
surfaces.7. Inspect and replace as
necessary.
Axle Shaft Broke 1. Misaligned axle tube. 1. Replace the broken shaft after
correcting tube mis-alignment.
2 Vehicle overloaded. 2. Replace broken shaft and avoid
excessive weight on vehicle.
3. Erratic clutch operation. 3. Replace broken shaft and avoid
or correct erratic clutch operation.
4. Grabbing clutch. 4. Replace broken shaft and inspect
and repair clutch as necessary.
WJREAR AXLE - 226RBA 3 - 93
REAR AXLE - 226RBA (Continued)
ADJUSTMENTS
Ring and pinion gears are supplied as matched
sets only. The identifying numbers for the ring and
pinion gear are etched into the face of each gear (Fig.
6). A plus (+) number, minus (±) number or zero (0) is
etched into the face of the pinion gear. This number
is the amount (in thousandths of an inch) the depth
varies from the standard depth setting of a pinion
etched with a (0). The standard setting from the cen-
ter line of the ring gear to the back face of the pinion
is 109.52 mm (4.312 in.). The standard depth pro-
vides the best gear tooth contact pattern. Refer to
Backlash and Contact Pattern in this section for
additional information.
Compensation for pinion depth variance is
achieved with a select shim/oil baffle. The shims areplaced between the rear pinion bearing and the pin-
ion gear head (Fig. 7).
If a new gear set is being installed, note the depth
variance etched into both the original and replace-
ment pinion. Add or subtract this number from the
thickness of the original depth shim/oil slinger to
compensate for the difference in the depth variances.
Refer to the Pinion Gear Depth Variance chart.
Note where Old and New Pinion Marking columns
intersect. Intersecting figure represents plus or
minus the amount needed.
Note the etched number on the face of the pinion
gear head (±1, ±2, 0, +1, +2, etc.). The numbers rep-
resent thousands of an inch deviation from the stan-
dard. If the number is negative, add that value to the
required thickness of the depth shims. If the number
is positive, subtract that value from the thickness of
the depth shim. If the number is 0 no change is nec-
essary.
Fig. 6 PINION GEAR ID NUMBERS
1 - PRODUCTION NUMBERS
2 - DRIVE PINION GEAR DEPTH VARIANCE
3 - GEAR MATCHING NUMBER (SAME AS RING GEAR
NUMBER)
Fig. 7 ADJUSTMENT SHIM LOCATIONS
1 - PINION GEAR DEPTH SHIM
2 - DIFFERENTIAL BEARING SHIM
3 - RING GEAR
4 - DIFFERENTIAL BEARING SHIM
5 - COLLAPSIBLE SPACER
WJREAR AXLE - 226RBA 3 - 97
REAR AXLE - 226RBA (Continued)
Common causes of brake drag are:
²Parking brake partially applied.
²Loose/worn wheel bearing.
²Seized caliper.
²Caliper binding.
²Loose caliper mounting.
²Mis-assembled components.
²Damaged brake lines.
If brake drag occurs at the front, rear or all
wheels, the problem may be related to a blocked mas-
ter cylinder return port, faulty power booster (binds-
does not release) or the ABS system.
BRAKE FADE
Brake fade is usually a product of overheating
caused by brake drag. However, brake overheating
and resulting fade can also be caused by riding the
brake pedal, making repeated high deceleration stops
in a short time span, or constant braking on steep
mountain roads. Refer to the Brake Drag information
in this section for causes.
BRAKE PULL
Front brake pull condition could result from:
²Contaminated lining in one caliper
²Seized caliper piston
²Binding caliper
²Loose caliper
²Rusty caliper slide surfaces
²Improper brake shoes
²Damaged rotor
²Wheel alignment.
²Tire pressure.
A worn, damaged wheel bearing or suspension compo-
nent are further causes of pull. A damaged front tire
(bruised, ply separation) can also cause pull.
A common and frequently misdiagnosed pull condi-
tion is where direction of pull changes after a few
stops. The cause is a combination of brake drag fol-
lowed by fade at one of the brake units.
As the dragging brake overheats, efficiency is so
reduced that fade occurs. Since the opposite brake
unit is still functioning normally, its braking effect is
magnified. This causes pull to switch direction in
favor of the normally functioning brake unit.
An additional point when diagnosing a change in
pull condition concerns brake cool down. Remember
that pull will return to the original direction, if the
dragging brake unit is allowed to cool down (and is
not seriously damaged).
REAR BRAKE DRAG OR PULL
Rear drag or pull may be caused by improperly
adjusted park brake shoes or seized parking brake
cables, contaminated lining, bent or binding shoes or
improperly assembled components. This is particu-
larly true when only one rear wheel is involved.However, when both rear wheels are affected, the
master cylinder or ABS system could be at fault.
BRAKES DO NOT HOLD AFTER DRIVING THROUGH DEEP
WATER PUDDLES
This condition is generally caused by water soaked
lining. If the lining is only wet, it can be dried by
driving with the brakes very lightly applied for a
mile or two. However, if the lining is both soaked and
dirt contaminated, cleaning and or replacement will
be necessary.
BRAKE LINING CONTAMINATION
Brake lining contamination is mostly a product of
leaking calipers or worn seals, driving through deep
water puddles, or lining that has become covered with
grease and grit during repair. Contaminated lining
should be replaced to avoid further brake problems.
WHEEL AND TIRE PROBLEMS
Some conditions attributed to brake components
may actually be caused by a wheel or tire problem.
A damaged wheel can cause shudder, vibration and
pull. A worn or damaged tire can also cause pull.
NOTE: Propshaft angle can also cause vibration/
shudder.
Severely worn tires with very little tread left can
produce a grab-like condition as the tire loses and
recovers traction. Flat-spotted tires can cause vibra-
tion and generate shudder during brake operation.
Tire damage such as a severe bruise, cut, ply separa-
tion, low air pressure can cause pull and vibration.
BRAKE NOISES
Some brake noise is common on some disc brakes
during the first few stops after a vehicle has been
parked overnight or stored. This is primarily due to
the formation of trace corrosion (light rust) on metal
surfaces. This light corrosion is typically cleared from
the metal surfaces after a few brake applications
causing the noise to subside.
BRAKE SQUEAK/SQUEAL
Brake squeak or squeal may be due to linings that
are wet or contaminated with brake fluid, grease, or oil.
Glazed linings and rotors with hard spots can also con-
tribute to squeak. Dirt and foreign material embedded
in the brake lining will also cause squeak/squeal.
A very loud squeak or squeal is frequently a sign of
severely worn brake lining. If the lining has worn
through to the brake shoes in spots, metal-to-metal
contact occurs. If the condition is allowed to continue,
rotors may become so scored that replacement is nec-
essary.
5 - 4 BRAKES - BASEWJ
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)
tions also allows the driver to set steering wheel tilt
and seat position to the most comfortable position.
The position of the brake and accelerator pedals can
be adjusted without compromising safety or comfort
in actuating the pedals. Repositioning the pedals
does not change the effort required for actuation.
Change of pedal position is accomplished by means
of a motor driven screw. Operating the adjustable
pedal switch activates the pedal drive motor. The
pedal drive motor turns a screw that changes the
position of the brake and accelerator pedals. The
pedal can be moved rearward (closer to the driver) or
forward (away from driver). The brake pedal is
moved on its drive screw to a position where the
driver feels most comfortable (Fig. 52).
The accelerator pedal is moved at the same time
and the same distance as the brake pedal. The accel-
erator pedal adjustment screw is turned by a flexible
shaft slaved off the brake adjustment screw.
Neither the pedal drive motor nor drive mecha-
nism are subject to the mechanical stress of brake or
accelerator application.
²SYSTEM FEATURES:
²Range of Adjustment: The pedals may be
adjusted up to 3 in. (75 mm)
²Pedal Adjustment Speed: 0.5 in./sec (12.5
mm/sec)
²Pedal Adjustment Inhibitors: Pedal adjust-
ment is inhibited when the vehicle is in reverse or
when cruise control is activated.
²Memory: An optional memory feature is avail-
able. This allows storing of one or two preferred
pedal positions in the Adjustable Pedal Module
(APM). A preferred position can be stored and
recalled using the door-mounted switches. A stored
pedal position can be recalled (but not stored)
using the Remote Keyless Entry (RKE).
²
Adjustable Pedal Feedback Message: The Elec-
tronic Vehicle Information Center (EVIC) will display
a message when the APS is disabled. ie:9Adjustable
Pedal Disabled - Cruise Control Engaged9or9Adjust-
able Pedal Disabled - Vehicle in Reverse9.
²Damage Prevention: Foot pressure or debris
can stall pedal adjustment. In order to avoid dam-
age to system components during pedal adjust-
ment, the APM will monitor pedal position sensor
voltage. If the APM does not detect expected volt-
age change within 1.5 seconds, it will cut power to
the adjustable pedal motor.
OPERATION
The brake pedal is attached to the booster push
rod. When the pedal is depressed, the primary
booster push rod is depressed which moves the
booster secondary rod. The booster secondary rod
depresses the master cylinder piston.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - NON-ADJUSTABLE PEDAL
(1) Remove retainer clip that holds booster to
pedal pin (Fig. 53).
Fig. 52 ADJUSTABLE PEDALS ASSEMBLY
1 - HARNESS
2 - ADJUSTABLE PEDAL BRACKET
3 - CABLE
4 - ACCELERATOR PEDAL
5 - BRAKE PEDAL
6 - ADJUSTABLE PEDAL MOTOR
7 - BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH
8 - ADJUSTABLE PEDALS MODULE
Fig. 53 Push Rod Retainer Clip
1 - RETAINER CLIP
2 - PUSH ROD
3 - PEDAL PIN
5 - 26 BRAKES - BASEWJ
PEDAL (Continued)
²SLIGHT TAIL WIND AT IDLE
²SLOW TRAFFIC
²TRAFFIC JAMS
²HIGH SPEED
²STEEP GRADES
Driving techniques that avoid overheating are:
²Idle with A/C off when temperature gauge is at
end of normal range.
²Increase engine speed for more air flow is recom-
mended.(1) TRAILER TOWING:
Consult Trailer Towing section of owners manual.
Do not exceed limits.
(2) AIR CONDITIONING; ADD-ON OR AFTER
MARKET:
A maximum cooling package should have been
ordered with vehicle if add-on or after market A/C is
installed. If not, maximum cooling system compo-
nents should be installed for model involved per
manufacturer's specifications.
(3) RECENT SERVICE OR ACCIDENT REPAIR:
Determine if any recent service has been per-
formed on vehicle that may effect cooling system.
This may be:
²Engine adjustments (incorrect timing)
²Slipping engine accessory drive belt(s)
²Brakes (possibly dragging)
²Changed parts. Incorrect water pump, or pump
rotating in wrong direction due to belt not correctly
routed
²Reconditioned radiator or cooling system refill-
ing (possibly under filled or air trapped in system).
NOTE: If investigation reveals none of the previous
items as a cause for an engine overheating com-
plaint, refer to following Cooling System Diagnosis
charts.
These charts are to be used as a quick-reference
only. Refer to the group text for information.
Fig. 4 Spring Clamp Size Location
1 - SPRING CLAMP SIZE LOCATION
7 - 4 COOLINGWJ
COOLING (Continued)
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - COOLING SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS CHART
COOLING SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS CHART
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
TEMPERATURE GAUGE
READS LOW1. Has a Diagnostic Trouble Code
(DTC) been set indicating a stuck
open thermostat?1. Refer to (Refer to 25 - EMISSIONS
CONTROL - DESCRIPTION) for On-Board
Diagnostics and DTC information. Replace
thermostat if necessary.
2. Is the temperature sending unit
connected?2. Check the temperature sensor connector.
(Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/ENGINE
COOLANT TEMP SENSOR -
DESCRIPTION). Repair connector if
necessary.
3. Is the temperature gauge
operating OK?3. Check gauge operation. Repair as
necessary.
4. Coolant level low in cold ambient
temperatures accompanied with
poor heater performance.4. Check coolant level in the coolant
reserve/overflow tank and the radiator.
Inspect system for leaks. Repair leaks as
necessary.
5. Improper operation of internal
heater doors or heater controls.5. Inspect heater and repair as necessary.
(Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR
CONDITIONING - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING)
TEMPERATURE GAUGE
READS HIGH OR THE
COOLANT LAMP
ILLUMINATES.
COOLANT MAY OR MAY
NOT BE LOST OR
LEAKING FROM THE
COOLING SYSTEM1. Trailer is being towed, a steep hill
is being climbed, vehicle is operated
in slow moving traffic, or engine is
being idled with very high ambient
(outside) temperatures and the air
conditioning is on. Higher altitudes
could aggravate these conditions.1. This may be a temporary condition and
repair is not necessary. Turn off the air
conditioning and attempt to drive the vehicle
without any of the previous conditions.
Observe the temperature gauge. The gauge
should return to the normal range. If the
gauge does not return to the normal range,
determine the cause for overheating and
repair.
2. Is the temperature gauge reading
correctly?2. Check gauge. (Refer to Group 8J -
INSTRUMENT CLUSTER). Repair as
necessary.
3. Is the temperature warning
illuminating unnecessarily?3. Check warning lamp operation. (Refer to
Group 8J - INSTRUMENT CLUSTER).Repair
as necessary.
4. Coolant low in coolant reserve/
overflow tank and radiator?4. Check for coolant leaks and repair as
necessary. (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
5. Pressure cap not installed tightly.
If cap is loose, boiling point of
coolant will be lowered. Also refer to
the following Step 6.5. Tighten cap
WJCOOLING 7 - 5
COOLING (Continued)
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
NOISY VISCOUS
FAN/DRIVE1. Fan blades loose - 4.0L. 1. Replace fan blade assembly. (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ENGINE/RADIATOR FAN -
REMOVAL)
2. Fan blades striking a surrounding
object.2. Locate point of fan blade contact and
repair as necessary.
3. Air obstructions at radiator or air
conditioning condenser.3. Remove obstructions and/or clean debris
or insects from radiator or A/C condenser.
4. Thermal viscous fan drive has
defective bearing - 4.0L4. Replace fan drive. Bearing is not
serviceable. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/
RADIATOR FAN - REMOVAL).
INADEQUATE HEATER
PERFORMANCE.1.Thermostat failed in open position
2. Has a Diagnostic trouble Code
(DTC) been set?2. (Refer to 25 - EMISSIONS CONTROL -
DESCRIPTION) for correct procedures and
replace thermostat if necessary
3. Coolant level low 3. (Refer to 7 - COOLING - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING).
4. Obstructions in heater hose/
fittings4. Remove heater hoses at both ends and
check for obstructions
5. Heater hose kinked 5. Locate kinked area and repair as
necessary
6. Water pump is not pumping water
to/through the heater core. When
the engine is fully warmed up, both
heater hoses should be hot to the
touch. If only one of the hoses is
hot, the water pump may not be
operating correctly or the heater
core may be plugged. Accessory
drive belt may be slipping causing
poor water pump operation.6. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/WATER
PUMP - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING). If a
slipping belt is detected, (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE
BELTS - REMOVAL). If heater core
obstruction is detected, (Refer to 7 -
COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE) for
cooling system reverse flushing.
STEAM IS COMING
FROM THE FRONT OF
VEHICLE NEAR THE
GRILL AREA WHEN
WEATHER IS WET,
ENGINE IS WARMED UP
AND RUNNING, AND
VEHICLE IS
STATIONARY.
TEMPERATURE GAUGE
IS IN NORMAL RANGE1. During wet weather, moisture
(snow, ice or rain condensation) on
the radiator will evaporate when the
thermostat opens. This opening
allows heated water into the radiator.
When the moisture contacts the hot
radiator, steam may be emitted. This
usually occurs in cold weather with
no fan or airflow to blow it away.1. Occasional steam emitting from this area
is normal. No repair is necessary.
COOLANT COLOR 1. Coolant color is not necessarily
an indication of adequate corrosion
or temperature protection. Do not
rely on coolant color for determining
condition of coolant.1. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/
COOLANT - DESCRIPTION) for coolant
concentration information. Adjust coolant
mixture as necessary.
WJCOOLING 7 - 9
COOLING (Continued)
corrosion inhibitors called HOAT, for Hybrid Organic
Additive Technology) is recommended. This coolant
offers the best engine cooling without corrosion when
mixed with 50% distilled water to obtain to obtain a
freeze point of -37ÉC (-35ÉF). If it loses color or
becomes contaminated, drain, flush, and replace with
fresh properly mixed coolant solution.
CAUTION: Do not use coolant additives that are
claimed to improve engine cooling.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - COOLING SYSTEM -
REVERSE FLUSHING
CAUTION: The cooling system normally operates at
97-to-124 kPa (14-to -18 psi) pressure. Exceeding
this pressure may damage the radiator or hoses.
Reverse flushing of the cooling system is the forc-
ing of water through the cooling system. This is done
using air pressure in the opposite direction of normal
coolant flow. It is usually only necessary with very
dirty systems with evidence of partial plugging.
CHEMICAL CLEANING
If visual inspection indicates the formation of
sludge or scaly deposits, use a radiator cleaner
(Mopar Radiator Kleen or equivalent) before flushing.
This will soften scale and other deposits and aid the
flushing operation.
CAUTION: Be sure instructions on the container are
followed.
REVERSE FLUSHING RADIATOR
Disconnect the radiator hoses from the radiator fit-
tings. Attach a section of radiator hose to the radia-
tor bottom outlet fitting and insert the flushing gun.
Connect a water supply hose and air supply hose to
the flushing gun.
CAUTION: The cooling system normally operates at
97-to-124 kPa (14- to-18 psi) pressure. Exceeding
this pressure may damage the radiator or hoses.
Allow the radiator to fill with water. When radiator
is filled, apply air in short blasts allowing radiator to
refill between blasts. Continue this reverse flushing
until clean water flows out through rear of radiator
cooling tube passages. For more information, refer to
operating instructions supplied with flushing equip-
ment. Have radiator cleaned more extensively by a
radiator repair shop.
REVERSE FLUSHING ENGINE
Drain the cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE). Remove the thermostat
housing and thermostat. Install the thermostat hous-
ing. Disconnect the radiator upper hose from the
radiator and attach the flushing gun to the hose. Dis-
connect the radiator lower hose from the water
pump. Attach a lead away hose to the water pump
inlet fitting.
CAUTION: Be sure that the heater control valve is
closed (heat off). This is done to prevent coolant
flow with scale and other deposits from entering
the heater core.
Connect the water supply hose and air supply hose
to the flushing gun. Allow the engine to fill with
water. When the engine is filled, apply air in short
blasts, allowing the system to fill between air blasts.
Continue until clean water flows through the lead
away hose. For more information, refer to operating
instructions supplied with flushing equipment.
Remove the lead away hose, flushing gun, water
supply hose and air supply hose. Remove the thermo-
stat housing (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/EN-
GINE COOLANT THERMOSTAT - REMOVAL).
Install the thermostat and housing with a replace-
ment gasket (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/EN-
GINE COOLANT THERMOSTAT -
INSTALLATION). Connect the radiator hoses. Refill
the cooling system with the correct antifreeze/water
mixture (Refer to 7 - COOLING - STANDARD PRO-
CEDURE).
SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE
DESCRIPTION N´m Ft. In.
Lbs. Lbs.
Automatic Belt Tensioner to
Mounting
BracketÐBolt
4.0L 28 Ð 250
4.7L 41 30 Ð
Automatic Belt Tensioner
PulleyÐ
Bolt
(4.7L) 61 45 Ð
Block HeaterÐBolt
7 - 14 COOLINGWJ
COOLING (Continued)