
Kilometers 149 000 154 000 158 000 160 000 163 000 168 000
(Miles) (93,000) (96,000) (99,000) (100,000) (102,000) (105,000)
Change engine oil and engine
oil filter.XXX X X
Inspect the brake linings. X
Inspect the engine air cleaner
filter, replace if necessary. *X XXX X
Replace theengine air
cleaner filter*X
Inspect and adjust the power
steering pump belt tension on
2.4 liter engines.X
Inspect the generator belt on
2.4 liter engines, replace if
necessary.X
Inspect engine accessory
drive belts on 3.3 liter
engines, replace if necessary.
³X
Change the automatic
transmission fluid and fliter.X
Change the manual
transmission fluid.X
Change the All Wheel Drive
(AWD) power transfer unit,
overrunning clutch and rear
carrier fluid. (See note at the
end of this chart)X
Flush and replace the engine
coolant at 60 months or
100,000 miles.X
Replace the air conditioning
filter.X
RSMAINTENANCE SCHEDULES0a-5
MAINTENANCE SCHEDULES FOR ALL MARKETS EXCEPT U.S., CANADA and MEXICO (Continued)
ProCarManuals.com

DESCRIPTION Ð DIESEL ENGINES
Maintenance Schedule Information not included in
this section, is located in the appropriate Owner's
Manual.
There are two maintenance schedules that show
therequiredservice for your vehicle.
First is ScheduleªBº. It is for vehicles that are
operated under the conditions that are listed below
and at the beginning of the schedule.
²Extensive engine idling.
²Driving in dusty conditions.
²More than 50% of your driving is at sustained
high speeds during hot weather, above 32É C (90É F).
²Trailer towing.
²Taxi, police, or delivery service (commercial ser-
vice).
NOTE: Most vehicles are operated under the condi-
tions listed for Schedule(B(.
Second is ScheduleªAº. It is for vehicles that are
not operated under any of the conditions listed under
Schedule9B9.
Use the schedule that best describes your driving
conditions. Where time and mileage are listed, follow
the interval that occurs first.
CAUTION: Failure to perform the required mainte-
nance items may result in damage to the vehicle.
At Each Stop for Fuel
²Check the engine oil level about 5 minutes after
a fully warmed engine is shut off. Checking the oil
level while the vehicle is on level ground will
improve the accuracy of the oil level reading. Add oil
only when the level is at or below the ADD or MIN
mark.
²Check the windshield washer solvent and add if
required.
Once a Month
²Check the tire pressure and look for unusual
wear or damage.
²Inspect the battery and clean and tighten the
terminals as required.
²Check the fluid levels of coolant reservoir, brake
master cylinder, power steering and transmission
and add as needed.
²Check all lights and all other electrical items for
correct operation.
At Each Oil Change
²Change the engine oil filter.
²Inspect the exhaust system.
²Inspect the brake hoses.
²Inspect the CV joints and front suspension com-
ponents.
²Check the manual transmission fluid level.
²Check the coolant level, hoses, and clamps.
²Inspect engine accessory drive belts. Replace as
necessary.
²Inspect for the presence of water in the fuel fil-
ter/water separator unit.
²Rotate the tires at each oil change interval (20
000 km).
SCHEDULE ªBº
Follow schedule ªBº if you usually operate your
vehicle under one or more of the following conditions.
²Extensive engine idling.
²Driving in dusty conditions.
²More than 50% of your driving is at sustained
high speeds during hot weather, above 32É C (90É F).
²Trailer towing.
²Taxi, police, or delivery service (commercial ser-
vice).
RSMAINTENANCE SCHEDULES0a-9
MAINTENANCE SCHEDULES FOR ALL MARKETS EXCEPT U.S., CANADA and MEXICO (Continued)
ProCarManuals.com

front and rear drive units. The unit is totally sealed
and partially filled with silicone fluid. There is no
adjustment, maintenance or fluid checks required
during the life of the unit.
The overrunning clutch allows the rear wheels to
overrun the front wheels during a rapid front wheel
lock braking maneuver. The overrunning action pre-
vents any feed-back of front wheel braking torque to
the rear wheels. It also allows the braking system to
control the braking behavior as a two wheel drive
(2WD) vehicle.
The overrunning clutch housing has a separate oil
sump and is filled independently from the differen-
tial. The fill plug is located on the side of the over-
running clutch case. When filling the overrunning
clutch with lubricant use MopartATF+4 (Automatic
Transmission FluidÐType 9602) or equivalent.
The differential assembly contains a conventional
open differential with hypoid ring gear and pinion
gear set. The hypoid gears are lubricated by SAE
80W-90 gear lubricant.DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - REAR DRIVELINE
MODULE NOISE
Different sources can be the cause of noise that the
rear driveline module assembly is suspected of mak-
ing. Refer to the following causes for noise diagnosis.
DRIVELINE MODULE ASSEMBLY NOISE
The most important part of driveline module ser-
vice is properly identifying the cause of failures and
noise complaints. The cause of most driveline module
failures is relatively easy to identify. The cause of
driveline module noise is more difficult to identify.
If vehicle noise becomes intolerable, an effort
should be made to isolate the noise. Many noises that
are reported as coming from the driveline module
may actually originate at other sources. For example:
²Tires
²Road surfaces
²Wheel bearings
Fig. 1 AWD Driveline Module Assembly
1 - TORQUE ARM 8 - WASHER 15 - PLUG-OVERRUNNING CLUTCH
HOUSING DRAIN
2 - INPUT FLANGE 9 - BI-DIRECTIONAL OVERRUNNING
CLUTCH (BOC)16 - SNAP RING
3 - FLANGE NUT 10 - VISCOUS COUPLER 17 - BEARING
4 - WASHER 11 - SHIM (SELECT) 18 - OVERRUNING CLUTCH HOUSING
5 - SHIELD 12 - O-RING 19 - SEAL-INPUT FLANGE
6 - VENT 13 - DIFFERENTIAL ASSEMBLY
7 - O-RING 14 - PLUG-DIFFERENTIAL FILL
3 - 24 REAR DRIVELINE MODULERS
REAR DRIVELINE MODULE (Continued)
ProCarManuals.com

master cylinder reservoir from completely draining
out.
(3) Disconnect the brake fluid flex hose from the
caliper assembly and remove it from the vehicle.
CAUTION: Do not use excessive force when clamp-
ing caliper in vise. Excessive vise pressure will
cause bore distortion.
(4) Mount the caliper in a vise equipped with pro-
tective jaws.
(5) Remove the piston dust boot from the caliper
and discard.
NOTE: Do not use a screw driver or other metal tool
for seal removal. Using such tools can scratch the
bore or leave burrs on the seal groove edges.
(6) Using a soft tool such as a plastic trim stick,
work the piston seal out of its groove in caliper pis-
ton bore (Fig. 33). Discard the old seal.
(7) Clean the piston bore and drilled passage ways
using alcohol or a suitable solvent. Wipe it dry using
only a lint-free cloth.
(8) Inspect the piston bore for scoring or pitting.
Bores that show light scratches or corrosion can usu-
ally be cleared of the light scratches or corrosion
using crocus cloth.CLEANING - CALIPER
WARNING: DUST AND DIRT ACCUMULATING ON
BRAKE PARTS DURING NORMAL USE MAY CON-
TAIN ASBESTOS FIBERS FROM PRODUCTION OR
AFTERMARKET BRAKE LININGS. BREATHING
EXCESSIVE CONCENTRATIONS OF ASBESTOS
FIBERS CAN CAUSE SERIOUS BODILY HARM.
EXERCISE CARE WHEN SERVICING BRAKE
PARTS. DO NOT SAND OR GRIND BRAKE LINING
UNLESS EQUIPMENT USED IS DESIGNED TO CON-
TAIN THE DUST RESIDUE. DO NOT CLEAN BRAKE
PARTS WITH COMPRESSED AIR OR BY DRY
BRUSHING. CLEANING SHOULD BE DONE BY
DAMPENING THE BRAKE COMPONENTS WITH A
FINE MIST OF WATER, THEN WIPING THE BRAKE
COMPONENTS CLEAN WITH A DAMPENED CLOTH.
DISPOSE OF CLOTH AND ALL RESIDUE CONTAIN-
ING ASBESTOS FIBERS IN AN IMPERMEABLE
CONTAINER WITH THE APPROPRIATE LABEL. FOL-
LOW PRACTICES PRESCRIBED BY THE OCCUPA-
TIONAL SAFETY AND HEALTH ADMINISTRATION
(OSHA) AND THE ENVIRONMENTAL PROTECTION
AGENCY (EPA) FOR THE HANDLING, PROCESSING,
AND DISPOSING OF DUST OR DEBRIS THAT MAY
CONTAIN ASBESTOS FIBERS.
To clean or flush the internal passages of the brake
caliper, use fresh brake fluid or MopartNon-Chlori-
nated Brake Parts Cleaner. Never use gasoline, ker-
osene, alcohol, oil, transmission fluid or any fluid
containing mineral oil to clean the caliper. These flu-
ids will damage rubber cups and seals.
INSPECTION - CALIPER
Inspect the disc brake caliper for the following:
²Brake fluid leaks in and around boot area and
inboard lining
²Ruptures, brittleness or damage to the piston
dust boot
²Damaged, dry or brittle guide pin dust boots
If caliper fails inspection, disassemble and recondi-
tion caliper, replacing the seals and dust boots.
ASSEMBLY
ASSEMBLY - CALIPER GUIDE PIN BUSHINGS
(DISC/DISC BRAKES)
(1) Fold the guide pin bushing in half lengthwise.
NOTE: To avoid damage to the bushing, do not use
a sharp object to install the guide pin bushing.
(2) Insert the folded bushing into the caliper
mounting boss using your fingers from the rear of
the caliper.
Fig. 33 Removing Piston Seal
1 - PLASTIC TRIM STICK
2 - CALIPER
3 - PISTON SEAL GROOVE
4 - PISTON SEAL
RSBRAKES - BASE5-25
DISC BRAKE CALIPER - FRONT (Continued)
ProCarManuals.com

NOTE: Do not use a screw driver or other metal tool
for seal removal. Using such tools can scratch the
bore or leave burrs on the seal groove edges.
(6) Using a soft tool such as a plastic trim stick,
work the piston seal out of its groove in caliper pis-
ton bore (Fig. 39). Discard the old seal.
(7) Clean the piston bore and drilled passage ways
using alcohol or a suitable solvent. Wipe it dry using
only a lint-free cloth.
(8) Inspect the piston bore for scoring or pitting.
Bores that show light scratches or corrosion can usu-
ally be cleared of the light scratches or corrosion
using crocus cloth.
CLEANING - CALIPER
WARNING: DUST AND DIRT ACCUMULATING ON
BRAKE PARTS DURING NORMAL USE MAY CON-
TAIN ASBESTOS FIBERS FROM PRODUCTION OR
AFTERMARKET BRAKE LININGS. BREATHING
EXCESSIVE CONCENTRATIONS OF ASBESTOS
FIBERS CAN CAUSE SERIOUS BODILY HARM.
EXERCISE CARE WHEN SERVICING BRAKE
PARTS. DO NOT SAND OR GRIND BRAKE LINING
UNLESS EQUIPMENT USED IS DESIGNED TO CON-
TAIN THE DUST RESIDUE. DO NOT CLEAN BRAKE
PARTS WITH COMPRESSED AIR OR BY DRY
BRUSHING. CLEANING SHOULD BE DONE BY
DAMPENING THE BRAKE COMPONENTS WITH AFINE MIST OF WATER, THEN WIPING THE BRAKE
COMPONENTS CLEAN WITH A DAMPENED CLOTH.
DISPOSE OF CLOTH AND ALL RESIDUE CONTAIN-
ING ASBESTOS FIBERS IN AN IMPERMEABLE
CONTAINER WITH THE APPROPRIATE LABEL. FOL-
LOW PRACTICES PRESCRIBED BY THE OCCUPA-
TIONAL SAFETY AND HEALTH ADMINISTRATION
(OSHA) AND THE ENVIRONMENTAL PROTECTION
AGENCY (EPA) FOR THE HANDLING, PROCESSING,
AND DISPOSING OF DUST OR DEBRIS THAT MAY
CONTAIN ASBESTOS FIBERS.
To clean or flush the internal passages of the brake
caliper, use fresh brake fluid or MopartNon-Chlori-
nated Brake Parts Cleaner. Never use gasoline, ker-
osene, alcohol, oil, transmission fluid or any fluid
containing mineral oil to clean the caliper. These flu-
ids will damage rubber cups and seals.
INSPECTION - CALIPER
Inspect the disc brake caliper for the following:
²Brake fluid leaks in and around boot area and
inboard lining
²Ruptures, brittleness or damage to the piston
dust boot
²Damaged, dry or brittle guide pin dust boots
If caliper fails inspection, disassemble and recondi-
tion caliper, replacing the seals and dust boots.
ASSEMBLY - CALIPER PISTON AND SEAL
NOTE: Never use an old piston seal.
(1) Dip the new piston seal in clean brake fluid
and install it in the groove of the caliper bore. The
seal should be started at one area of the groove and
gently worked around and into the groove (Fig.
40)using only your clean fingers to seat it.
(2) Coat the new piston boot with clean brake
fluid.
(3) Position the dust boot over the piston after
coating it with brake fluid.
CAUTION: Force applied to the piston to seat it in
the bore must be applied uniformly to avoid cock-
ing and binding of the piston.
(4) Install piston into caliper bore pushing it past
the piston seal until it bottoms in the caliper bore
(Fig. 41).
(5) Position the dust boot into the counterbore of
the caliper assembly piston bore.
(6) Using a hammer and Installer, Special Tool
C-4689 or C-4842 (depending on piston size), and
Handle, Special Tool C-4171, drive the boot into the
counterbore of the caliper as necessary (Fig. 42).
Fig. 39 Removing Piston Seal
1 - PLASTIC TRIM STICK
2 - CALIPER
3 - PISTON SEAL GROOVE
4 - PISTON SEAL
RSBRAKES - BASE5-29
DISC BRAKE CALIPER - REAR (Continued)
ProCarManuals.com

Use only brake fluid that was stored in a tightly-
sealed container.
DO NOTuse petroleum-based fluid because seal
damage will result. Petroleum based fluids would be
items such as engine oil, transmission fluid, power
steering fluid etc.
SPECIFICATIONS
BRAKE FLUID
The brake fluid used in this vehicle must conform
to DOT 3 specifications (DOT 4 and DOT 4+ are
acceptable) and SAE J1703 standards. No other type
of brake fluid is recommended or approved for usage
in the vehicle brake system. Use only MopartBrake
Fluid or equivalent from a tightly sealed container.
CAUTION: Never use reclaimed brake fluid or fluid
from an container which has been left open. An
open container of brake fluid will absorb moisture
from the air and contaminate the fluid.
CAUTION: Never use any type of a petroleum-based
fluid in the brake hydraulic system. Use of such
type fluids will result in seal damage of the vehicle
brake hydraulic system causing a failure of the
vehicle brake system. Petroleum based fluids would
be items such as engine oil, transmission fluid,
power steering fluid, etc.
JUNCTION BLOCK
DESCRIPTION - NON-ABS JUNCTION BLOCK
A junction block is used on vehicles that are not
equipped with antilock brakes (ABS). The junction
block mounts in the same location as the integrated
control unit (ICU) does on vehicles equipped with
ABS. This allows for use of the same brake tube con-
figuration on all vehicles. The junction block is
located on the driver's side of the front suspension
cradle/crossmember below the master cylinder (Fig.
45).
It has six threaded ports to which the brake tubes
connect. Two are for the primary and secondary
brake tubes coming from the master cylinder. The
remaining four are for the chassis brake tubes going
to each brake assembly.
OPERATION - NON-ABS JUNCTION BLOCK
The junction block distributes the brake fluid com-
ing from the master cylinder primary and secondary
ports to the four chassis brake tubes leading to the
brakes at each wheel. Since the junction blockmounts in the same location as the ABS integrated
control unit (ICU), it allows for the common use of
brake tubes going to the brakes whether the vehicle
is equipped with or without ABS.
NOTE: Although the brake tubes coming from the
master cylinder to the junction block or ABS ICU
may appear to be the same, they are not. They are
unique to each brake system application.
REMOVAL - NON-ABS JUNCTION BLOCK
(1) Using a brake pedal depressor, move and lock
the brake pedal to a position past its first 1 inch of
travel. This will prevent brake fluid from draining
out of the master cylinder when the brake tubes are
removed from the junction block.
(2) Disconnect the battery negative cable.
(3) If the vehicle is equipped with speed control,
perform the following:
(a) Disconnect the battery positive cable.
(b) Remove the battery (Refer to 8 - ELECTRI-
CAL/BATTERY SYSTEM/BATTERY - REMOVAL).
(c) Disconnect the vacuum hose connector at the
tank built into the battery tray.
(d) Remove the screw securing the coolant filler
neck to the battery tray.
(e) Remove the battery tray (Refer to 8 - ELEC-
TRICAL/BATTERY SYSTEM/TRAY - REMOVAL).
(f) Remove the fasteners and move the speed
control servo off to the side, out of the way.
CAUTION: Before removing the brake tubes from
the junction block, the junction block and the brake
tubes must be thoroughly cleaned. This is required
to prevent contamination from entering the brake
hydraulic system.
(4) Remove the four chassis brake tubes from the
top of the junction block (Fig. 45).
(5) Remove the primary and secondary brake
tubes from the top of the junction block.
(6) Remove the bolts attaching the junction block
mounting bracket to the front suspension crossmem-
ber (Fig. 45), then remove the junction block.
INSTALLATION - NON-ABS JUNCTION BLOCK
(1) Install the junction block and mounting bracket
on the front suspension crossmember (Fig. 45).
Install the mounting bolts and tighten to a torque of
28 N´m (250 in. lbs.).
(2) Install the primary and secondary brake tubes
from the master cylinder in their ports. Tighten tube
nuts to a torque of 17 N´m (145 in. lbs.).Take care
not to twist tubes when tightening tube nuts.
They must be properly positioned to allow free
RSBRAKES - BASE5-33
FLUID (Continued)
ProCarManuals.com

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS - CLUTCH GRAB/CHATTER
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
CLUTCH DISC FACING
COVERED WITH OIL OR
GREASEOil leak at engine rear main or
transaxle input shaft seal.Correct leak and replace modular clutch
assembly (2.4L Gas) or clutch cover and disc
(2.5L TD).
Too much grease applied to splines
of disc and input shaft.Apply lighter coating of grease to splines.
NO FAULT FOUND WITH
CLUTCH
COMPONENTSProblem actually related to
suspension or driveline component.Further diagnosis required. Check engine/
transmission mounts, suspension attaching
parts and other driveline components as
needed.
Engine related problems. Check EFI and ignition systems.
PARTIAL ENGAGEMENT
OF CLUTCH DISCClutch cover, spring, or release
fingers bent, distorted (rough
handling, improper assembly).Replace modular clutch assembly (2.4L Gas)
or clutch cover and disc (2.5L TD).
Clutch disc damaged or distorted. Replace modular clutch assembly (2.4L Gas)
or clutch cover and disc (2.5L TD).
Clutch misalignment. Verify modular clutch pilot plate alignment to
crankshaft. Replace the modular clutch
assembly (2.4L Gas) or clutch cover and disc
(2.5L TD) if the pilot plate is loose or bent.
Improper transaxle-to-engine
installation.Verify transaxle is properly installed to
engine.
SERVICE DIAGNOSIS - CLUTCH SLIPS
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
DISC FACING WORN
OUTNormal wear. Replace modular clutch assembly (2.4L Gas)
or clutch cover and disc (2.5L TD).
Driver frequently rides (slips) clutch,
results in rapid wear, overheating.Replace modular clutch assembly (2.4L Gas)
or clutch cover and disc (2.5L TD).
Insufficient clutch cover diaphragm
spring tensionReplace modular clutch assembly (2.4L Gas)
or clutch cover and disc (2.5L TD).
CLUTCH DISC FACING
CONTAMINATED WITH
OIL OR GREASELeak at rear main oil seal or
transaxle input shaft sealReplace leaking seals. Replace modular
clutch assembly (2.4L Gas) or clutch cover
and disc (2.5L TD).
Excessive amount of grease applied
to input shaft splinesApply less grease to input shaft. Replace
modular clutch assembly (2.4L Gas) or clutch
cover and disc (2.5L TD).
Road splash, water entering housing Seal housing. Inspect clutch assembly.
CLUTCH IS RUNNING
PARTIALLY
DISENGAGEDRelease bearing sticking or binding,
does not return to normal running
position.Verify that bearing is actually binding. Then,
replace bearing and transmission front
bearing retainer if sleeve surface is
damaged.
Clutch pedal not returning to static
position.Inspect pedal assembly for damage and/or
obstructions. Replace componnents as
necessary.
Clutch master cylinder or pushrod
damaged causing high preload.Replace clutch master cylinder assembly.
Slave cylinder binding or stuck. Replace slave cylinder.
6 - 4 CLUTCHRS
CLUTCH (Continued)
ProCarManuals.com

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - DRIVE PLATE
MISALIGNMENT
Common causes of misalignment are:
²Heat warping
²Mounting drive plate on a dirty crankshaft
flange
²Incorrect bolt tightening
²Improper seating on the crankshaft shoulder
²Loose crankshaft bolts
Clean the crankshaft flange before mounting the
drive plate. Dirt and grease on the flange surface
may misalign the flywheel, causing excessive runout.
Use new bolts when mounting drive plate to crank-
shaft. Tighten drive plate bolts to specified torque
only. Over-tightening can distort the drive plate hub
causing excessive runout.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CLUTCH COVER
AND DISC RUNOUT
Check condition of the clutch cover before installa-
tion. A warped cover or diaphragm spring will cause
grab and/or incomplete release or engagement. Use
care when handling the clutch assembly. Impact can
distort the cover, diaphragm spring, and release fin-
gers.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CLUTCH CHATTER
COMPLAINTS
For all clutch chatter complaints, perform the fol-
lowing:
(1) Check for loose, misaligned, or broken engine
and transmission mounts. If present, they should be
corrected at this time. Test vehicle for chatter. If
chatter is gone, there is no need to go any further.
(2) If chatter persists, check hydraulic clutch
release system is functioning properly.
(3) Check for loose connections in drivetrain. Cor-
rect any problems and determine if clutch chatter
complaints have been satisfied. If not:
(a) Remove transaxle.
(b) Check to see if the release bearing is sticky
or binding. Replace bearing, if needed.
(c) Check linkage for excessive wear on the pivot
stud and fork fingers. Replace all worn parts.
(d) Check clutch assembly for contamination
(dirt, oil). Replace clutch assembly, if required.
(e) Check to see if the clutch disc hub splines
are damaged. Replace with new clutch assembly, if
necessary.
(f) Check input shaft splines for damage.
Replace, if necessary.
(g) Check for uneven wear on clutch fingers.
(h) Check for broken clutch cover diaphragm
spring fingers. Replace with new clutch assembly,
if necessary.
SPECIAL TOOLS - T850 TRANSAXLE
CLUTCH RELEASE LEVER AND
BEARING
REMOVAL
(1) Remove transaxle assembly. (Refer to 21 -
TRANSMISSION/TRANSAXLE/MANUAL -
REMOVAL)
(2) Remove modular clutch assembly from input
shaft (2.4L Gas models only).
(3) Grasp clutch release lever and bearing (Fig. 6)
with both hands and pull outward using moderate
pressure to release lever from pivot ball.
(4) Separate release bearing from lever.
NOTE: Remove release lever pivot ball(s) ONLY if
replacement is necessary.
Disconnect Tool, 6638A
Remover/Installer, 6891
6 - 6 CLUTCHRS
CLUTCH (Continued)
ProCarManuals.com