2003 CHRYSLER CARAVAN flat tire

TOWING ± FRONT WHEEL LIFT
If the vehicle is being towed from the front, when-
ever possible ensure at least 10 inches road clearance
to the tires.
TOWING ± REAR WHEEL LIFT
If a vehicle cannot be towed with the front wheels
lifted, the rear wheels can be lifted provided the fol-
lowing guide lines are observed.
CAUTION: Do not use steering column lock to
secure steering wheel during towing operation.
²On AWD vehicles, all four wheels must be free to
rotate. Use towing dollies at unlifted end of vehicle.²Unlock steering column and secure steering
wheel in straight ahead position with a clamp device
designed for towing.
²Three speed automatic transaxle vehicles can be
flat towed at speeds not to exceed 40 km/h (25 mph)
for not more than 25 km (15 miles). The steering col-
umn must be unlocked and gear selector in neutral.
²Four speed electronic automatic transaxle vehi-
cles can be flat towed at speeds not to exceed 72
km/h (44 mph) for not more than 160 km (100 miles).
The steering column must be unlocked and gear
selector in neutral.
0 - 18 LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCERS
TOWING (Continued)
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(2) Remove the wheel and tire assembly from loca-
tion on front of vehicle requiring strut removal.
(3) If both strut assemblies are to be removed,
mark the strut assemblies right or left according to
which side of the vehicle they were removed from.
(4) Remove the hydraulic brake hose routing
bracket and the speed sensor cable routing bracket
from the strut damper brackets (Fig. 40).
CAUTION: When removing the nut from the stud of
the stabilizer bar link, do not allow the stud to
rotate in it's socket. Hold the stud from rotating by
placing an open-end wrench on the flat machined
into the stud (Fig. 41).
(5) Remove the stabilizer bar link from the bracket
on the strut assembly (Fig. 41). To do so, place an
open-end wrench on the flat machined into the link's
mounting stud, then remove the nut while holding
the wrench in place. Push the stud out of the
bracket.
CAUTION: The steering knuckle to strut assembly
attaching bolts are serrated and must not be turned
during removal. Remove nuts while holding bolts
stationary in the steering knuckles.
(6) Remove the 2 strut assembly clevis bracket to
steering knuckle attaching bolts (Fig. 42).
(7) Remove the 3 nuts attaching the strut assem-
bly upper mount to the strut tower (Fig. 43) and
remove the strut assembly from the vehicle.
(8) To disassemble the strut assembly, (Refer to 2 -
SUSPENSION/FRONT/STRUT - DISASSEMBLY).
DISASSEMBLY - STRUT ASSEMBLY
The strut assembly must be removed from the
vehicle for it to be disassembled and assembled.
For the disassembly and assembly of the strut
assembly, use of Strut Spring Compressor, Pentastar
Service Equipment (PSE) tool W-7200, or the equiva-
lent, is recommended to compress the coil spring.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions closely.
Fig. 40 Brake Hose And Speed Sensor Cable
Routing
1 - STRUT DAMPER
2 - WHEEL SPEED SENSOR CABLE
3 - ROUTING BRACKET
4 - HYDRAULIC BRAKE HOSE
5 - ATTACHING BOLT
6 - ROUTING BRACKET
Fig. 41 Stabilizer Bar Link To Strut Attachment
1 - NUT
2 - STRUT
3 - STABILIZER BAR LINK
Fig. 42 Strut Damper Attachment To Steering
Knuckle
1 - STRUT CLEVIS BRACKET
2 - ATTACHING BOLTS
3 - TIE ROD END
4 - ROTOR
5 - STEERING KNUCKLE
RSFRONT SUSPENSION2-21
STRUT (Continued)
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sion is relieved, make sure the upper mount, pivot
bearing and upper seat are align properly. Remove
the clamp from the lower end of the coil spring and
strut. Push back the spring compressor upper and
lower hooks, then remove the strut assembly from
the spring compressor.
(13) Install strut assembly on the vehicle. (Refer to
2 - SUSPENSION/FRONT/STRUT - INSTALLA-
TION)
INSTALLATION - STRUT ASSEMBLY
CAUTION: Front strut coil springs are side-oriented.
When installing a strut assembly, make sure the
strut being installed has the correct coil spring for
that side of the vehicle. Springs on the left side of
the vehicle have a left-hand wind top-to-bottom
while springs on the right side have a right-hand
wind top-to-bottom (Fig. 49). Do not interchange the
two sides.
(1) Install strut assembly into strut tower, aligning
and installing the 3 studs on the upper strut mount
into the holes in shock tower. Install the 3 upper
strut mount attaching nut/washer assemblies (Fig.
43). Then using a crow foot. tighten the 3 attaching
nuts to a torque of 28 N´m (250 in. lbs.).
CAUTION: The steering knuckle to strut assembly
attaching bolts are serrated and must not be turned
during installation. Install nuts while holding bolts
stationary in the steering knuckles.
NOTE: The strut clevis-to-steering knuckle bolts are
installed differently on each side of the vehicle. Left
hand side bolts are to be installed from vehicle rear
to front. Right side bolts are to be installed from
vehicle front to rear.(2) Align strut assembly with steering knuckle.
Position arm of steering knuckle into strut assembly
clevis bracket. Align the strut assembly clevis
bracket mounting holes with the steering knuckle
mounting holes. Install the 2 strut assembly to steer-
ing knuckle attaching bolts (Fig. 42).If strut assem-
bly is attached to steering knuckle using a cam
bolt, the cam bolt must be installed in the lower
slotted hole on strut clevis bracket.Tighten the
strut clevis-to-steering knuckle attaching bolts to a
torque of 81 N´m (60 ft. lbs.) plus an additional 1/4
(90É) turn after specified torque is met.
(3) Install the stabilizer bar link mounting stud
through the bracket on the strut assembly (Fig. 41).
CAUTION: When installing the nut on the mounting
stud of the stabilizer bar link, do not allow the stud
to rotate in it's socket. Hold the stud from rotating
by placing an open-end wrench on the flat
machined into the stud (Fig. 41).
(4) Hand thread the nut on the end of the stabi-
lizer bar link stud. Hold the stud from turning by
placing an open-end wrench on the flat machined
into the link's mounting stud, then tighten the nut
while holding the wrench in place (Fig. 41). Tighten
the nut to a torque of 88 N´m (65 ft. lbs.).
(5) Install the hydraulic brake hose and speed sen-
sor cable routing brackets on the strut assembly
brackets (Fig. 40). Tighten the routing bracket
attaching bolts to a torque of 13 N´m (10 ft. lbs.).
(6) Install the wheel/tire assembly on the vehicle.
(7) Install and tighten the wheel mounting stud
nuts in proper sequence until all nuts are torqued to
half specification. Then repeat the tightening
sequence to the full specified torque of 135 N´m (100
ft. lbs.).
RSFRONT SUSPENSION2-25
STRUT (Continued)
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WHEEL ALIGNMENT
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
WHEEL ALIGNMENT
DESCRIPTION - WHEEL ALIGNMENT.......46
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - SUSPENSION
AND STEERING......................49
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - WHEEL
ALIGNMENT.........................51STANDARD PROCEDURE - CURB HEIGHT
MEASUREMENT......................54
SPECIFICATIONS
WHEEL ALIGNMENT...................55
WHEEL ALIGNMENT
DESCRIPTION - WHEEL ALIGNMENT
Vehicle wheel alignment is the positioning of all
interrelated front and rear suspension angles. These
angles affect the handling and steering of the vehicle
when it is in motion. Proper wheel alignment is
essential for efficient steering, good directional stabil-
ity, and proper tire wear.
The method of checking a vehicle's front and rear
wheel alignment varies depending on the manufac-
turer and type of equipment used. The manufactur-
er's instructions should always be followed to ensure
accuracy of the alignment, except when
DaimlerChrysler Corporation's wheel alignment spec-
ifications differ.
On this vehicle, the suspension angles that can be
adjusted are as follows:
²Front Camber (with camber bolt package and
standard procedure)
²Front Toe
Check the wheel alignment and make all wheel
alignment adjustments with the vehicle standing at
its proper curb height specification. Curb height is
the normal riding height of the vehicle. It is mea-
sured from a certain point on the vehicle to the
ground or a designated area while the vehicle is sit-
ting on a flat, level surface. Refer to Curb Height
Measurement in this section for additional informa-
tion.
Typical wheel alignment angles and measurements
are described in the following paragraphs.
CAMBER
Camber is the inward or outward tilt of the top of
the tire and wheel assembly (Fig. 1). Camber is mea-
sured in degrees of angle relative to a true vertical
line. Camber is a tire wearing angle.
²Excessive negative camber will cause tread wear
at the inside of the tire.²Excessive positive camber will cause tread wear
on the outside of the tire.
CROSS CAMBER
Cross camber is the difference between left and
right camber. To achieve the cross camber reading,
subtract the right side camber reading from the left.
Fig. 1 Camber
1 - WHEELS TILTED OUT AT TOP
2 - WHEELS TILTED IN AT TOP
2 - 46 WHEEL ALIGNMENTRS
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CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
Front End Whine With
Vehicle Going Straight At A
Constant Speed1. Defective wheel bearing 1. Replace wheel bearing
2. Incorrect wheel alignment 2. Check and reset wheel alignment
3. Worn tires 3. Replace tires
4. Worn or defective transaxle gears
or bearings4. Replace transaxle gears or bearings
Front End Growl Or
Grinding With Vehicle
Going Straight At A
Constant Speed1. Engine mount grounding 1. Reposition engine as required
2. Worn or broken C/V joint 2. Replace C/V joint
Front End Whine When
Accelerating Or
Decelerating1. Worn or defective transaxle gears
or bearings1. Replace transaxle gears or bearings
Front End Clunk When
Accelerating Or
Decelerating1. Worn or broken engine mount 1. Replace engine mount
2. Worn or defective transaxle gears
or bearings2. Replace transaxle gears or bearings
3. Loose lug nuts 3. Verify wheel lug nut torque
4. Worn or broken C/V joint 4. Replace C/V joint
5. Worn or loose ball joint 5. Tighten or replace ball joint
6. Worn or loose control arm bushing 6. Replace control arm bushing
7. Loose crossmember bolts 7. Tighten crossmember bolts to specified
torque
8. Worn tie rod end 8. Replace tie rod end
Road Wander 1. Incorrect tire pressure 1. Inflate tires to recommended pressure
2. Incorrect front or rear wheel toe 2. Check and reset wheel toe
3. Worn wheel bearings 3. Replace wheel bearing
4. Worn control arm bushings 4. Replace control arm bushing
5. Excessive friction in steering gear 5. Replace steering gear
6. Excessive friction in steering shaft
coupling6. Replace steering coupler
7. Excessive friction in strut upper
bearing7. Replace strut bearing
Lateral Pull 1. Unequal tire pressure 1. Inflate all tires to recommended
pressure
2. Radial tire lead 2. Perform lead correction procedure
3. Incorrect front wheel camber 3. Check and reset front wheel camber
4. Power steering gear imbalance 4. Replace power steering gear
5. Wheel braking 5. Correct braking condition causing
lateral pull
Excessive Steering Free
Play1. Incorrect Steering Gear Adjustment 1. Adjust Or Replace Steering Gear
2. Worn or loose tie rod ends 2. Replace or tighten tie rod ends
3. Loose steering gear mounting bolts 3. Tighten steering gear bolts to specified
torque
4. Loose or worn steering shaft
coupler4. Replace steering shaft coupler
2 - 50 WHEEL ALIGNMENTRS
WHEEL ALIGNMENT (Continued)
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CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
Excessive Steering Effort 1. Low tire pressure 1. Inflate all tires to recommended
pressure
2. Lack of lubricant in steering gear 2. Replace steering gear
3. Low power steering fluid level 3. Fill power steering fluid reservoir to
correct level
4. Loose power steering pump drive
belt4. Correctly adjust power steering pump
drive belt
5. Lack of lubricant in ball joints 5. Lubricate or replace ball joints
6. Steering gear malfunction 6. Replace steering gear
7. Lack of lubricant in steering coupler 7. Replace steering coupler
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - WHEEL ALIGNMENT
PRE-WHEEL ALIGNMENT INSPECTION
Before any attempt is made to change or correct
the wheel alignment, the following inspection and
necessary corrections must be made to ensure proper
alignment.
(1) Verify that the fuel tank is full of fuel. If the
tank is not full, the reduction in weight will affect
the curb height of the vehicle and the alignment
angles.
(2) The passenger and luggage compartments of
the vehicle should be free of any load that is not fac-
tory equipment.
(3) Check the tires on the vehicle. All tires must be
the same size and in good condition with approxi-
mately the same amount of tread wear. Inflate all
the tires to the recommended air pressure.
(4) Check the front wheel and tire assemblies for
excessive radial runout.
(5) Inspect lower ball joints and all steering link-
age for looseness, binding, wear or damage. Repair as
necessary.
(6) Check suspension fasteners for proper torque
and retighten as necessary.
(7) Inspect all suspension component rubber bush-
ings for signs of wear or deterioration. Replace any
faulty bushings or components before aligning the
vehicle.
(8) Check the vehicle's curb height to verify it is
within specifications. Refer to Curb Height Measure-
ment.
WHEEL ALIGNMENT SETUP
(1) Position the vehicle on an alignment rack.
(2) Install all required alignment equipment on
the vehicle per the alignment equipment manufactur-
er's instructions. On this vehicle, a four-wheel align-
ment is recommended.NOTE: Prior to reading the vehicle's alignment
readouts, the front and rear of vehicle should be
jounced. Induce jounce (rear first, then front) by
grasping the center of the bumper and jouncing
each end of vehicle an equal number of times. The
bumper should always be released when vehicle is
at the bottom of the jounce cycle.
(3) Read the vehicle's current front and rear align-
ment settings. Compare the vehicle's current align-
ment settings to the vehicle specifications for camber,
caster and toe-in. (Refer to 2 - SUSPENSION/
WHEEL ALIGNMENT - SPECIFICATIONS)
(4) If front camber and caster are not within spec-
ifications, proceed to CAMBER AND CASTER below.
If caster and camber are within specifications, pro-
ceed to TOE which can be found following CAMBER
AND CASTER. Rear camber, caster and toe are not
adjustable. If found not to be within specifications,
reinspect for damaged suspension or body compo-
nents and replace as necessary.
CAMBER AND CASTER
Camber and caster settings on this vehicle are
determined at the time the vehicle is designed, by
the location of the vehicle's suspension components.
This is referred to as NET BUILD. The result is no
required adjustment of camber and caster after the
vehicle is built or when servicing the suspension
components. Thus, when performing a wheel align-
ment, caster and camber are not normally considered
adjustable angles. Camber and caster should be
checked to ensure they meet vehicle specifications.
If front camber is found not to meet alignment
specifications, it can be adjusted using an available
camber adjustment bolt package. Before installing a
camber adjustment bolt package on a vehicle found
to be outside the specifications, inspect the suspen-
sion components for any signs of damage or bending.
RSWHEEL ALIGNMENT2-51
WHEEL ALIGNMENT (Continued)
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(3) Tighten tie rod jam nuts (Fig. 12) to 75 N´m
(55 ft. lbs.) torque.
(4) Adjust steering gear to tie rod boots at the
inner tie rod.
(5) Remove steering wheel clamp.
(6) Remove the alignment equipment.
(7) Road test the vehicle to verify the steering
wheel is straight and the vehicle does not wander or
pull.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - CURB HEIGHT
MEASUREMENT
The wheel alignment is to be checked and all align-
ment adjustments made with the vehicle at its
required curb height specification.
Vehicle height is to be checked with the vehicle on
a flat, level surface, preferably a vehicle alignment
rack. The tires are to be inflated to the recommended
pressure. All tires are to be the same size as stan-
dard equipment. Vehicle height is checked with the
fuel tank full of fuel, and no passenger or luggage
compartment load.
Vehicle height is not adjustable. If the measure-
ment is not within specifications, inspect the vehicle
for bent or weak suspension components. Compare
the parts tag on the suspect coil spring(s) to the
parts book and the vehicle sales code, checking for a
match. Once removed from the vehicle, compare the
coil spring height to a correct new or known good coil
spring. The heights should vary if the suspect spring
is weak.
(1) Measure from the inboard edge of the wheel
opening fender lip directly above the wheel center
(spindle), to the floor or alignment rack surface.
(2) When measuring, the maximum left-to-right
differential is not to exceed 12.5 mm (0.5 in.).
(3) Compare the measurements to the specifica-
tions listed in the following Curb Height Specifica-
tions charts.
CURB HEIGHT SPECIFICATIONS
TIRE SALES CODE/TIRE SIZE FRONT REAR
ALL755mm 11mm
29.72 in.   0.43 in770mm 11mm
30.31 in.   0.43 in.
Fig. 12 Front Wheel Toe Adjustment
1 - INNER TIE ROD SERRATION
2 - OUTER TIE ROD JAM NUT
3 - OUTER TIE ROD END
4 - INNER TIE ROD
5 - STEERING KNUCKLE
2 - 54 WHEEL ALIGNMENTRS
WHEEL ALIGNMENT (Continued)
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²Engine
²Transmission
²Exhaust
²Propeller shaft (vibration)
²Vehicle body (drumming)
Driveline module noises are normally divided into
two categories: gear noise or bearing noise. A thor-
ough and careful inspection should be completed to
determine the actual source of the noise before
replacing the driveline module.
The rubber mounting bushings help to dampen-out
driveline module noise when properly installed.
Inspect to confirm that no metal contact exists
between the driveline module case and the body. The
complete isolation of noise to one area requires
expertise and experience. Identifying certain types of
vehicle noise baffles even the most capable techni-
cians. Often such practices as:
²Increase tire inflation pressure to eliminate tire
noise.
²Listen for noise at varying speeds with different
driveline load conditions
²Swerving the vehicle from left to right to detect
wheel bearing noise.
All driveline module assemblies produce noise to a
certain extent. Slight carrier noise that is noticeable
only at certain speeds or isolated situations should be
considered normal. Carrier noise tends to peak at a
variety of vehicle speeds. Noise isNOT ALWAYSan
indication of a problem within the carrier.
TIRE NOISE
Tire noise is often mistaken for driveline module
noise. Tires that are unbalanced, worn unevenly or
are worn in a saw-tooth manner are usually noisy.
They often produce a noise that appears to originate
in the driveline module.
Tire noise changes with different road surfaces, but
driveline module noise does not. Inflate all four tires
with approximately 20 psi (138 kPa) more than the
recommended inflation pressure (for test purposes
only). This will alter noise caused by tires, but will
not affect noise caused by the differential. Rear axle
noise usually ceases when coasting at speeds less
than 30 mph (48 km/h); however, tire noise contin-
ues, but at a lower frequency, as the speed is
reduced.
After test has been completed lower tire pressure
back to recommended pressure.
GEAR NOISE (DRIVE PINION AND RING GEAR)
Abnormal gear noise is rare and is usually caused
by scoring on the ring gear and drive pinion. Scoring
is the result of insufficient or incorrect lubricant in
the carrier housing.Abnormal gear noise can be easily recognized. It
produces a cycling tone that will be very pronounced
within a given speed range. The noise can occur dur-
ing one or more of the following drive conditions:
²Drive
²Road load
²Float
²Coast
Abnormal gear noise usually tends to peak within
a narrow vehicle speed range or ranges. It is usually
more pronounced between 30 to 40 mph (48 to 64
km/h) and 50 to 60 mph (80 to 96 km/h). When objec-
tionable gear noise occurs, note the driving condi-
tions and the speed range.
BEARING NOISE (DRIVE PINION AND
DIFFERENTIAL)
Defective bearings produce a rough growl that is
constant in pitch and varies with the speed of vehi-
cle. Being aware of this will enable a technician to
separate bearing noise from gear noise.
Drive pinion bearing noise that results from defec-
tive or damaged bearings can usually be identified by
its constant, rough sound. Drive pinion front bearing
is usually more pronounced during a coast condition.
Drive pinion rear bearing noise is more pronounced
during a drive condition. The drive pinion bearings
are rotating at a higher rate of speed than either the
differential side bearings or the axle shaft bearing.
Differential side bearing noise will usually produce
a constant, rough sound. The sound is much lower in
frequency than the noise caused by drive pinion bear-
ings.
Bearing noise can best be detected by road testing
the vehicle on a smooth road (black top). However, it
is easy to mistake tire noise for bearing noise. If a
doubt exists, the tire treads should be examined for
irregularities that often causes a noise that resem-
bles bearing noise.
ENGINE AND TRANSMISSION NOISE
Sometimes noise that appears to be in the driv-
eline module assembly is actually caused by the
engine or the transmission. To identify the true
source of the noise, note the approximate vehicle
speed and/or RPM when the noise is most noticeable.
Stop the vehicle next to a flat brick or cement wall
(this will help reflect the sound). Place the transaxle
inNEUTRAL. Accelerate the engine slowly up
through the engine speed that matches the vehicle
speed noted when the noise occurred. If the same
noise is produced, it usually indicates that the noise
is being caused by the engine or transaxle.
RSREAR DRIVELINE MODULE3-25
REAR DRIVELINE MODULE (Continued)
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