SPECIAL TOOLS
POWER DISTRIBUTION SYSTEMS
ACCESSORY RELAY
DESCRIPTION
The accessory relay is an electromechanical device
that switches fused battery current to the accessory
powered vehicle circuits when the ignition switch is
turned to the Accessory or On positions. The delay
feature will maintain power to the accessories for 45
seconds after the ignition is shut off or until a door is
opened. This allows sufficient time to close windows
and park the windshield wipers. The accessory relay
is located in the Integrated Power Module (IPM) in
the engine compartment.
The accessory relay is a International Standards
Organization (ISO) relay. Relays conforming to the
ISO specifications have common physical dimensions,
current capacities, terminal patterns, and terminal
functions.
The accessory relay cannot be repaired or adjusted
and, if faulty or damaged, it must be replaced.
OPERATION
The ISO relay consists of an electromagnetic coil, a
resistor or diode, and three (two fixed and one mov-
able) electrical contacts. The movable (common feed)
relay contact is held against one of the fixed contacts
(normally closed) by spring pressure. When the elec-
tromagnetic coil is energized, it draws the movable
contact away from the normally closed fixed contact,
and holds it against the other (normally open) fixed
contact.
When the electromagnetic coil is de-energized,
spring pressure returns the movable contact to the
normally closed position. The resistor or diode is con-
nected in parallel with the electromagnetic coil in therelay, and helps to dissipate voltage spikes that are
produced when the coil is de-energized.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS & TESTING - ACCESSORY RELAY
The accessory relay (Fig. 1) is located in the Inte-
grated Power Module (IPM), in the engine compart-
ment. For complete circuit diagrams, refer toWiring
Diagrams.
(1) Remove the accessory relay from the IPM.
Refer toAccessory Relayin the Removal and
Installation section of this group for the procedure.
(2) A relay in the de-energized position should
have continuity between terminals 87A and 30, and
no continuity between terminals 87 and 30. If OK, go
to Step 3. If not OK, replace the faulty relay.
(3) Resistance between terminals 85 and 86 (elec-
tromagnet) should be 75 5 ohms. If OK, go to Step
4. If not OK, replace the faulty relay.
(4) Connect a battery to terminals 85 and 86.
There should now be continuity between terminals
30 and 87, and no continuity between terminals 87A
and 30. If OK, perform the Relay Circuit Test that
follows. If not OK, replace the faulty relay.
DIAGNOSIS & TESTING - RELAY CIRCUIT TEST
(1) The relay common feed terminal cavity (30) of
the IPM is connected to battery voltage and should
be hot at all times. Check for battery voltage at the
fused B(+) circuit cavity in the IPM receptacle for the
accessory relay. If OK, go to Step 2. If not OK, repair
the fused B(+) circuit to the IPM fuse as required.
(2) The relay normally closed terminal (87A) is
connected to terminal 30 in the de-energized position,
but is not used for this application. Go to Step 3.
(3) The relay normally open terminal (87) is con-
nected to the common feed terminal (30) in the ener-
gized position. This terminal supplies battery voltage
Terminal Pick Kit 6680
Fig. 1 Accessory Relay
8W - 97 - 2 8W-97 POWER DISTRIBUTION SYSTEMRS
POWER DISTRIBUTION SYSTEM (Continued)
ProCarManuals.com
REMOVAL - CYLINDER HEAD OFF........32
INSPECTION..........................32
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - CYLINDER HEAD ON.....33
INSTALLATION - CYLINDER HEAD OFF....33
HYDRAULIC LASH ADJUSTERS
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HYDRAULIC
LASH ADJUSTER NOISE DIAGNOSIS......34
REMOVAL.............................34
INSTALLATION.........................34
ROCKER ARMS
REMOVAL.............................34
INSPECTION..........................35
INSTALLATION.........................35
ENGINE BLOCK
DESCRIPTION.........................35
STANDARD PROCEDURE - CYLINDER BORE
HONING............................35
CLEANING............................36
INSPECTION..........................36
CRANKSHAFT
STANDARD PROCEDURE - CRANKSHAFT
ENDPLAY ...........................36
REMOVAL - CRANKSHAFT................37
INSPECTION..........................37
INSTALLATION - CRANKSHAFT............38
CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL - FRONT
REMOVAL.............................40
INSTALLATION.........................40
CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL - REAR
REMOVAL.............................41
INSTALLATION.........................42
PISTON & CONNECTING ROD
DESCRIPTION.........................42
STANDARD PROCEDURE - PISTON TO
CYLINDER BORE FITTING..............42
REMOVAL.............................43
INSTALLATION.........................44
CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS
STANDARD PROCEDURE
CONNECTING ROD - FITTING...........45
PISTON RINGS
STANDARD PROCEDURE
PISTON RING - FITTING................45
REMOVAL.............................46
INSTALLATION.........................46
VIBRATION DAMPER
REMOVAL.............................47
INSTALLATION.........................47
STRUCTURAL COLLAR
REMOVAL.............................47
INSTALLATION.........................48
ENGINE MOUNTING
DESCRIPTION.........................48
FRONT MOUNT
REMOVAL.............................49
INSTALLATION.........................49LEFT MOUNT
REMOVAL.............................49
INSTALLATION.........................50
REAR MOUNT
REMOVAL.............................50
INSTALLATION.........................50
RIGHT MOUNT
REMOVAL.............................51
INSTALLATION.........................51
LUBRICATION
DESCRIPTION.........................52
OPERATION...........................52
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CHECKING
ENGINE OIL PRESSURE................52
OIL
STANDARD PROCEDURE
ENGINE OIL LEVEL CHECK.............53
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ENGINE OIL
AND FILTER CHANGE..................53
OIL FILTER
DESCRIPTION.........................53
REMOVAL.............................53
INSTALLATION.........................53
OIL PAN
REMOVAL.............................54
INSTALLATION.........................54
OIL PRESSURE SWITCH
REMOVAL.............................54
INSTALLATION.........................54
OIL PUMP
REMOVAL.............................55
DISASSEMBLY.........................55
CLEANING............................56
INSPECTION..........................56
ASSEMBLY............................56
INSTALLATION.........................57
INTAKE MANIFOLD
DESCRIPTION.........................58
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - INTAKE
MANIFOLD LEAKS.....................58
INTAKE MANIFOLD - UPPER
REMOVAL.............................58
INSPECTION..........................59
INSTALLATION.........................59
INTAKE MANIFOLD - LOWER
REMOVAL.............................60
INSPECTION..........................60
INSTALLATION.........................60
EXHAUST MANIFOLD
REMOVAL.............................61
CLEANING............................61
INSPECTION..........................61
INSTALLATION.........................61
TIMING BELT COVER(S)
REMOVAL.............................61
INSTALLATION.........................62
9 - 2 ENGINE 2.4LRS
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TIMING BELT AND SPROCKET(S)
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - TIMING BELT...............63
REMOVAL - CAMSHAFT SPROCKETS.....64
REMOVAL - CRANKSHAFT SPROCKET....64
CLEANING............................64
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - CRANKSHAFT SPROCKET . 65
INSTALLATION - CAMSHAFT SPROCKETS . . 65INSTALLATION - TIMING BELT...........65
TIMING BELT TENSIONER & PULLEY
REMOVAL.............................68
INSTALLATION.........................69
BALANCE SHAFTS AND CARRIER ASSEMBLY
DESCRIPTION.........................69
OPERATION...........................69
REMOVAL.............................69
INSTALLATION.........................72
ENGINE 2.4L
DESCRIPTION
The 2.4 Liter (148 cu. in.) in-line four cylinder
engine is a double over head camshaft with hydraulic
lash adjusters and four valve per cylinder design.
The engine is free-wheeling; meaning it has provi-
sions for piston-to-valve clearance. However valve-to-
valve interference can occur, if camshafts are rotated
independently.
The cylinders are numbered from front of the
engine to the rear. The firing order is 1±3±4±2.
The engine identification number is located on the
rear of the cylinder block (Fig. 1).
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE
DIAGNOSIS - INTRODUCTION
Engine diagnosis is helpful in determining the
causes of malfunctions not detected and remedied by
routine maintenance.
These malfunctions may be classified as either
mechanical (e.g., a strange noise), or performance
(e.g., engine idles rough and stalls).
Refer to the Engine Mechanical and the Engine
Performance diagnostic charts, for possible causes
and corrections of malfunctions (Refer to 9 - ENGINE
- DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - MECHANICAL)
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
- PERFORMANCE).
For fuel system diagnosis, (Refer to 14 - FUEL
SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING).
Additional tests and diagnostic procedures may be
necessary for specific engine malfunctions that can-
not be isolated with the Service Diagnosis charts.
Information concerning additional tests and diagno-
sis is provided within the following:
²Cylinder Compression Pressure Test
²Cylinder Combustion Pressure Leakage Test
²Engine Cylinder Head Gasket Failure Diagnosis
²Intake Manifold Leakage Diagnosis
²Hydraulic Lash Adjuster Noise Diagnosis
²Engine Oil Leak Inspection
Fig. 1 Engine Identification
1 - ENGINE IDENTIFICATION LOCATION
RSENGINE 2.4L9-3
ProCarManuals.com
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE DIAGNOSIS - MECHANICAL
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
NOISY VALVES 1. High or low oil level in
crankcase.1. Check and correct engine oil
level.
2. Thin or diluted oil. 2. Change oil to correct viscosity.
3. Thick oil 3. (a) Change engine oil and filter.
(b) Run engine to operating
temperature.
(c) Change engine oil and filter
again.
4. Low oil pressure. 4. Check and correct engine oil
pressure problem.
5. Dirt in hydraulic lifters/lash
adjusters.5. Replace hydraulic lifters/lash
adjusters.
6. Worn rocker arms. 6. Inspect oil supply to rocker arms.
7. Worn hydraulic lifters/lash
adjusters.7. Replace hydraulic lifters/lash
adjusters.
8. Worn valve guides. 8. Replace cylinder head assembly.
9. Excessive runout of valve seats
on valve faces.9. Grind valve seats and valves.
CONNECTING ROD NOISE 1. Insufficient oil supply. 1. Check engine oil level.
2. Low oil pressure. 2. Check engine oil level. Inspect oil
pump relief valve and spring.
3. Thin or diluted oil. 3. Change oil to correct viscosity.
4. Thick oil 4. (a) Change engine oil and filter.
(b) Run engine to operating
temperature.
(c) Change engine oil and filter
again.
5. Excessive bearing clearance. 5. Measure bearings for correct
clearance. Repair as necessary.
6. Connecting rod journal
out-of-round.6. Replace crankshaft or grind
surface.
7. Misaligned connecting rods. 7. Replace bent connecting rods.
9 - 6 ENGINE 2.4LRS
ENGINE 2.4L (Continued)
ProCarManuals.com
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
MAIN BEARING NOISE 1. Insufficient oil supply. 1. Check engine oil level.
2. Low oil pressure. 2. Check engine oil level. Inspect oil
pump relief valve and spring.
3. Thin or diluted oil. 3. Change oil to correct viscosity.
4. Thick oil 4. (a) Change engine oil and filter.
(b) Run engine to operating
temperature.
(c) Change engine oil and filter
again.
5. Excessive bearing clearance. 5. Measure bearings for correct
clearance. Repair as necessary.
6. Excessive end play. 6. Check thrust bearing for wear on
flanges.
7. Crankshaft journal out-of-round
or worn.7. Replace crankshaft or grind
journals.
8. Loose flywheel or torque
converter.8. Tighten to correct torque.
OIL PRESSURE DROP 1. Low oil level. 1. Check engine oil level.
2. Faulty oil pressure sensor/switch. 2. Replace oil pressure sensor/
switch.
3. Low oil pressure. 3. Check oil pressure sensor/switch
and main bearing oil clearance.
4. Clogged oil filter. 4. Install new oil filter.
5. Worn parts in oil pump. 5. Replace worn parts or pump.
6. Thin or diluted oil. 6. Change oil to correct viscosity.
7. Oil pump relief valve stuck. 7. Remove valve and inspect, clean,
or replace.
8. Oil pump suction tube loose. 8. Remove oil pan and install new
tube or clean, if necessary.
9. Oil pump cover warped or
cracked.9. Install new oil pump.
10. Excessive bearing clearance. 10. Measure bearings for correct
clearance.
OIL LEAKS 1. Misaligned or deteriorated
gaskets.1. Replace gasket(s).
2. Loose fastener, broken or porous
metal part.2. Tighten, repair or replace the
part.
3. Misaligned or deteriorated cup or
threaded plug.3. Replace as necessary.
RSENGINE 2.4L9-7
ENGINE 2.4L (Continued)
ProCarManuals.com
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
OIL CONSUMPTION OR SPARK
PLUGS FOULED1. PCV system malfunction. 1. Check system and repair as
necessary. (Refer to 25 -
EMISSIONS CONTROL/
EVAPORATIVE EMISSIONS/PCV
VALVE - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING)
2. Worn, scuffed or broken rings. 2. Hone cylinder bores. Install new
rings.
3. Carbon in oil ring slots. 3. Install new rings.
4. Rings fitted too tightly in grooves. 4. Remove rings and check
grooves. If groove is not proper
width, replace piston.
5. Worn valve guide(s). 5. Replace cylinder head assembly.
6. Valve stem seal(s) worn or
damaged.6. Replace seal(s).
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE OIL LEAK
INSPECTION
Begin with a thorough visual inspection of the
engine, particularly at the area of the suspected leak.
If an oil leak source is not readily identifiable, the
following steps should be followed:
(1) Do not clean or degrease the engine at this
time because some solvents may cause rubber to
swell, temporarily stopping the leak.
(2) Add an oil soluble dye (use as recommended by
manufacturer). Start the engine and let idle for
approximately 15 minutes. Check the oil dipstick to
make sure the dye is thoroughly mixed as indicated
with a bright yellow color under a black light.
(3) Using a black light, inspect the entire engine
for fluorescent dye, particularly at the suspected area
of oil leak. If the oil leak is found and identified,
repair as necessary.
(4) If dye is not observed, drive the vehicle at var-
ious speeds for approximately 24 km (15 miles), and
repeat inspection.
(5)If the oil leak source is not positively
identified at this time, proceed with the air leak
detection test method as follows:
²Disconnect the fresh air hose (make-up air) at
the cylinder head cover and plug or cap the nipple on
the cover.
²Remove the PCV valve hose from the cylinder
head cover. Cap or plug the PCV valve nipple on the
cover.
²Attach an air hose with pressure gauge and reg-
ulator to the dipstick tube.
CAUTION: Do not subject the engine assembly to
more than 20.6 kpa (3 PSI) of test pressure.²Gradually apply air pressure from 1 psi to 2.5
psi maximum while applying soapy water at the sus-
pected source. Adjust the regulator to the suitable
test pressure that provides the best bubbles which
will pinpoint the leak source. If the oil leak is
detected and identified, repair per service manual
procedures.
²If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil
seal area, refer to the section, Inspection for Rear
Seal Area Leak.
(6) If no leaks are detected, turn off the air supply.
Remove the air hose, all plugs, and caps. Install the
PCV valve and fresh air hose (make-up air). Proceed
to next step.
(7) Clean the oil off the suspect oil leak area using
a suitable solvent. Drive the vehicle at various
speeds approximately 24 km (15 miles). Inspect the
engine for signs of an oil leak by using a black light.
NOTE: If oil leakage is observed at the dipstick tube
to block location; remove the tube, clean and reseal
using MoparTStud & Bearing Mount (press fit tube
applications only), and for O-ring style tubes,
remove tube and replace the O-ring seal.
INSPECTION FOR REAR SEAL AREA LEAKS
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the
source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the
engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. The
following steps should be followed to help pinpoint
the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal
area:
(1) Disconnect the battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
9 - 8 ENGINE 2.4LRS
ENGINE 2.4L (Continued)
ProCarManuals.com
(3) Remove torque converter or clutch housing
cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil.
Use a black light to check for the oil leak. If a leak is
present in this area, remove transmission for further
inspection.
(a) Circular spray pattern generally indicates
seal leakage or crankshaft damage.
(b) Where leakage tends to run straight down,
possible causes are a porous block, oil gallery cup
plug, bedplate to cylinder block mating surfaces
and seal bore. See proper repair procedures for
these items.
(4) If no leaks are detected, pressurize the crank-
case as previously described.
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
(5) If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the
crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is
detected between the crankshaft and seal while
slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the
crankshaft seal surface is damaged. The seal area on
the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches
that can be polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft
polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks and
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is especially
machined to complement the function of the rear oil
seal.
(6) For bubbles that remain steady with shaft
rotation, no further inspection can be done until dis-
assembled.
(7) After the oil leak root cause and appropriate
corrective action have been identified, replace compo-
nent(s) as necessary.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CYLINDER
COMPRESSION PRESSURE TEST
The results of a cylinder compression pressure test
can be utilized to diagnose several engine malfunc-
tions.
Ensure the battery is completely charged and the
engine starter motor is in good operating condition.
Otherwise the indicated compression pressures may
not be valid for diagnosis purposes.
(1) Check engine oil level and add oil if necessary.
(2) Drive the vehicle until engine reaches normal
operating temperature. Select a route free from traf-
fic and other forms of congestion, observe all traffic
laws, and accelerate through the gears several times
briskly.
(3) Remove all spark plugs from engine. As spark
plugs are being removed, check electrodes for abnor-
mal firing indicators fouled, hot, oily, etc. Record cyl-
inder number of spark plug for future reference.(4) Remove the Auto Shutdown (ASD) relay from
the PDC.
(5) Be sure throttle blade is fully open during the
compression check.
(6) Insert compression gauge adaptor Special Tool
8116 or the equivalent, into the #1 spark plug hole in
cylinder head. Connect the 0±500 psi (Blue) pressure
transducer (Special Tool CH7059) with cable adap-
tors to the DRBIIIt. For Special Tool identification,
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE - SPECIAL TOOLS).
(7) Crank engine until maximum pressure is
reached on gauge. Record this pressure as #1 cylin-
der pressure.
(8) Repeat the previous step for all remaining cyl-
inders.
(9) Compression should not be less than 689 kPa
(100 psi) and not vary more than 25 percent from cyl-
inder to cylinder.
(10) If one or more cylinders have abnormally low
compression pressures, repeat the compression test.
(11) If the same cylinder or cylinders repeat an
abnormally low reading on the second compression
test, it could indicate the existence of a problem in
the cylinder in question.The recommended com-
pression pressures are to be used only as a
guide to diagnosing engine problems. An engine
should not be disassembled to determine the
cause of low compression unless some malfunc-
tion is present.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CYLINDER
COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE TEST
The combustion pressure leakage test provides an
accurate means for determining engine condition.
Combustion pressure leakage testing will detect:
²Exhaust and intake valve leaks (improper seat-
ing).
²Leaks between adjacent cylinders or into water
jacket.
²Any causes for combustion/compression pressure
loss.
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE PRESSURE CAP
WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER PRESSURE
BECAUSE SERIOUS BURNS FROM COOLANT CAN
OCCUR.
Check the coolant level and fill as required. DO
NOT install the pressure cap.
Start and operate the engine until it attains nor-
mal operating temperature, then turn the engine
OFF.
Clean spark plug recesses with compressed air.
Remove the spark plugs.
Remove the oil filler cap.
Remove the air cleaner.
RSENGINE 2.4L9-9
ENGINE 2.4L (Continued)
ProCarManuals.com
Calibrate the tester according to the manufactur-
er's instructions. The shop air source for testing
should maintain 483 kPa (70 psi) minimum, 1,379
kPa (200 psi) maximum, with 552 kPa (80 psi) rec-
ommended.
Perform the test procedures on each cylinder
according to the tester manufacturer's instructions.
While testing, listen for pressurized air escaping
through the throttle body, tailpipe and oil filler cap
opening. Check for bubbles in the coolant.
All gauge pressure indications should be equal,
with no more than 25% leakage per cylinder.
FOR EXAMPLE:At 552 kPa (80 psi) input pres-
sure, a minimum of 414 kPa (60 psi) should be main-
tained in the cylinder.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ENGINE CORE AND
OIL GALLERY PLUGS
Using a blunt tool such as a drift and a hammer,
strike the bottom edge of the cup plug. With the cup
plug rotated, grasp firmly with pliers or other suit-
able tool and remove plug (Fig. 2).
CAUTION: Do not drive cup plug into the casting as
restricted cooling can result and cause serious
engine problems.Thoroughly clean inside of cup plug hole in cylin-
der block or head. Be sure to remove old sealer.
Lightly coat inside of cup plug hole with Mopart
Stud and Bearing Mount. Make certain the new plug
is cleaned of all oil or grease. Using proper drive
plug, drive plug into hole so that the sharp edge of
the plug is at least 0.5 mm (0.020 in.) inside the
lead-in chamfer.
It is not necessary to wait for curing of the sealant.
The cooling system can be refilled and the vehicle
placed in service immediately.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - REPAIR OF
DAMAGED OR WORN THREADS
Damaged or worn threads (excluding spark plug
and camshaft bearing cap attaching threads) can be
repaired. Essentially, this repair consists of drilling
out worn or damaged threads, tapping the hole with
a special Heli-Coil Tap, (or equivalent) and installing
an insert into the tapped hole. This brings the hole
back to its original thread size.
CAUTION: Be sure that the tapped holes maintain
the original center line.
Heli-Coil tools and inserts are readily available
from automotive parts jobbers.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - HYDROSTATIC
LOCKED ENGINE
When an engine is suspected to be hydrostatically
locked, regardless of what caused the problem, the
following steps should be used.
CAUTION: DO NOT use starter motor to rotate the
engine, severe damage may occur.
(1) Inspect air cleaner, induction system and
intake manifold to insure system is dry and clear of
foreign material.
(2) Remove negative battery cable.
(3) Place a shop towel around the spark plugs
when removing them from the engine. This will catch
any fluid that may possibly be in the cylinder under
pressure.
(4) With all spark plugs removed, rotate engine
crankshaft using a breaker bar and socket.
(5) Identify the fluid in the cylinder(s) (i.e., cool-
ant, fuel, oil or other).
(6) Make sure all fluid has been removed from the
cylinders. Inspect engine for damage (i.e., connecting
rods, pistons, valves, etc.)
(7) Repair engine or components as necessary to
prevent this problem from re-occurring.
Fig. 2 Core Hole Plug Removal
1 - CYLINDER BLOCK
2 - REMOVE PLUG WITH PLIERS
3 - STRIKE HERE WITH HAMMER
4 - DRIFT PUNCH
5 - CUP PLUG
9 - 10 ENGINE 2.4LRS
ENGINE 2.4L (Continued)
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