(3) Check position of the stabilizer bar in the front
suspension cradle. The center of the curved section of
the stabilizer bar must be aligned with the raised
line in the center of the front suspension cradle (Fig.
37).
(4) Install the stabilizer bar link mounting stud
through the hole in each end of the stabilizer bar
(Fig. 33).
CAUTION: When installing the nut on the mounting
stud of the stabilizer bar link, do not allow the stud
to rotate in it's socket. Hold the stud from rotating
by placing an open-end wrench on the flat
machined into the stud (Fig. 33).
(5) Hand-thread the nut on the end of each stabi-
lizer bar link stud. Hold the studs from turning by
placing an open-end wrench on the flat machined
into the link's mounting stud, then tighten each nut
while holding the wrench in place (Fig. 33). Tighten
each nut to a torque of 88 N´m (65 ft. lbs.).
(6) Tighten the stabilizer bar bushing retainer to
cradle attaching bolts (Fig. 34) to 68 N´m (50 ft. lbs.)
torque.
(7) Install the reinforcement on the front suspen-
sion cradle crossmember and install the bolts attach-
ing the reinforcement to the cradle crossmember
(Fig. 32). Tighten the M-14 size bolts to a torque of
153 N´m (113 ft. lbs.). Tighten the M-12 size bolts to
a torque of 106 N´m (78 ft. lbs.).
(8) Install the lower control arm rear bushing
retainer bolts through reinforcement on each side of
each lower control arm rear bushing. Tighten these
M-10 size bolts to a torque of 61 N´m (45 ft. lbs.).(9) Install the two bolts and bushings attaching
the reinforcement and rear of cradle crossmember to
body of vehicle (Fig. 32). Tighten bolts to a torque of
163 N´m (120 ft. lbs.).
(10) Install the power steering cooler (Fig. 31).
Tighten bolts to a torque of 11 N´m (100 in. lbs.).
(11) Lower the vehicle.
STRUT
DESCRIPTION - STRUT ASSEMBLY
A Macpherson type strut assembly is used in place
of a conventional front suspension's upper control
arm and upper ball joint. The bottom of the strut
mounts directly to the steering knuckle using two
bolts and nuts going through the strut clevis bracket
and steering knuckle. The top of the strut mounts
directly to the strut tower of the vehicle using the
threaded studs on the strut assemblies upper mount.
The strut assembly includes the components listed
in the figure (Fig. 38).
Each component is serviced by removing the strut
assembly from the vehicle and disassembling it.
The coil springs are side-oriented. Springs on the
left side of the vehicle have a left-hand wind top-to-
bottom while springs on the right side have a right-
hand wind top-to-bottom. This helps provide better
vehicle stability during jounce and rebound maneu-
vers of the front suspension. Left and right springs
must not be interchanged. Coil springs are rated sep-
arately for each corner or side of the vehicle depend-
ing on optional equipment and type of vehicle
service. If the coil springs require replacement, be
sure that the springs are replaced with springs meet-
ing the correct load rating and spring rate for the
vehicle and its specific options.
OPERATION - STRUT ASSEMBLY
The strut assembly cushions the ride of the vehicle,
controlling vibration, along with jounce and rebound
of the suspension.
The coil spring controls ride quality and maintains
proper ride height.
The spring isolators isolate the coil spring at the
top and bottom from coming into metal-to-metal con-
tact with the upper seat and strut.
The jounce bumper limits suspension travel and
metal-to-metal contact under full jounce condition.
The strut dampens jounce and rebound motions of
the coil spring and suspension.
During steering maneuvers, the strut assembly
(through a pivot bearing in the upper strut mount)
and steering knuckle (through the lower ball joint)
turn as an assembly.
Fig. 37 Stabilizer Bar Correctly Positioned In Cradle
1 - RAISED BEAD
2-SWAYBAR
3 - WHEN INSTALLING SWAY BAR THE RAISED BEAD ON THE
SUSPENSION CRADLE MUST BE IN THE CENTER OF RADIUS
IN SWAY BAR
4 - FRONT SUSPENSION CRADLE
RSFRONT SUSPENSION2-19
STABILIZER BAR (Continued)
ProCarManuals.com
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
Front End Whine With
Vehicle Going Straight At A
Constant Speed1. Defective wheel bearing 1. Replace wheel bearing
2. Incorrect wheel alignment 2. Check and reset wheel alignment
3. Worn tires 3. Replace tires
4. Worn or defective transaxle gears
or bearings4. Replace transaxle gears or bearings
Front End Growl Or
Grinding With Vehicle
Going Straight At A
Constant Speed1. Engine mount grounding 1. Reposition engine as required
2. Worn or broken C/V joint 2. Replace C/V joint
Front End Whine When
Accelerating Or
Decelerating1. Worn or defective transaxle gears
or bearings1. Replace transaxle gears or bearings
Front End Clunk When
Accelerating Or
Decelerating1. Worn or broken engine mount 1. Replace engine mount
2. Worn or defective transaxle gears
or bearings2. Replace transaxle gears or bearings
3. Loose lug nuts 3. Verify wheel lug nut torque
4. Worn or broken C/V joint 4. Replace C/V joint
5. Worn or loose ball joint 5. Tighten or replace ball joint
6. Worn or loose control arm bushing 6. Replace control arm bushing
7. Loose crossmember bolts 7. Tighten crossmember bolts to specified
torque
8. Worn tie rod end 8. Replace tie rod end
Road Wander 1. Incorrect tire pressure 1. Inflate tires to recommended pressure
2. Incorrect front or rear wheel toe 2. Check and reset wheel toe
3. Worn wheel bearings 3. Replace wheel bearing
4. Worn control arm bushings 4. Replace control arm bushing
5. Excessive friction in steering gear 5. Replace steering gear
6. Excessive friction in steering shaft
coupling6. Replace steering coupler
7. Excessive friction in strut upper
bearing7. Replace strut bearing
Lateral Pull 1. Unequal tire pressure 1. Inflate all tires to recommended
pressure
2. Radial tire lead 2. Perform lead correction procedure
3. Incorrect front wheel camber 3. Check and reset front wheel camber
4. Power steering gear imbalance 4. Replace power steering gear
5. Wheel braking 5. Correct braking condition causing
lateral pull
Excessive Steering Free
Play1. Incorrect Steering Gear Adjustment 1. Adjust Or Replace Steering Gear
2. Worn or loose tie rod ends 2. Replace or tighten tie rod ends
3. Loose steering gear mounting bolts 3. Tighten steering gear bolts to specified
torque
4. Loose or worn steering shaft
coupler4. Replace steering shaft coupler
2 - 50 WHEEL ALIGNMENTRS
WHEEL ALIGNMENT (Continued)
ProCarManuals.com
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
Excessive Steering Effort 1. Low tire pressure 1. Inflate all tires to recommended
pressure
2. Lack of lubricant in steering gear 2. Replace steering gear
3. Low power steering fluid level 3. Fill power steering fluid reservoir to
correct level
4. Loose power steering pump drive
belt4. Correctly adjust power steering pump
drive belt
5. Lack of lubricant in ball joints 5. Lubricate or replace ball joints
6. Steering gear malfunction 6. Replace steering gear
7. Lack of lubricant in steering coupler 7. Replace steering coupler
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - WHEEL ALIGNMENT
PRE-WHEEL ALIGNMENT INSPECTION
Before any attempt is made to change or correct
the wheel alignment, the following inspection and
necessary corrections must be made to ensure proper
alignment.
(1) Verify that the fuel tank is full of fuel. If the
tank is not full, the reduction in weight will affect
the curb height of the vehicle and the alignment
angles.
(2) The passenger and luggage compartments of
the vehicle should be free of any load that is not fac-
tory equipment.
(3) Check the tires on the vehicle. All tires must be
the same size and in good condition with approxi-
mately the same amount of tread wear. Inflate all
the tires to the recommended air pressure.
(4) Check the front wheel and tire assemblies for
excessive radial runout.
(5) Inspect lower ball joints and all steering link-
age for looseness, binding, wear or damage. Repair as
necessary.
(6) Check suspension fasteners for proper torque
and retighten as necessary.
(7) Inspect all suspension component rubber bush-
ings for signs of wear or deterioration. Replace any
faulty bushings or components before aligning the
vehicle.
(8) Check the vehicle's curb height to verify it is
within specifications. Refer to Curb Height Measure-
ment.
WHEEL ALIGNMENT SETUP
(1) Position the vehicle on an alignment rack.
(2) Install all required alignment equipment on
the vehicle per the alignment equipment manufactur-
er's instructions. On this vehicle, a four-wheel align-
ment is recommended.NOTE: Prior to reading the vehicle's alignment
readouts, the front and rear of vehicle should be
jounced. Induce jounce (rear first, then front) by
grasping the center of the bumper and jouncing
each end of vehicle an equal number of times. The
bumper should always be released when vehicle is
at the bottom of the jounce cycle.
(3) Read the vehicle's current front and rear align-
ment settings. Compare the vehicle's current align-
ment settings to the vehicle specifications for camber,
caster and toe-in. (Refer to 2 - SUSPENSION/
WHEEL ALIGNMENT - SPECIFICATIONS)
(4) If front camber and caster are not within spec-
ifications, proceed to CAMBER AND CASTER below.
If caster and camber are within specifications, pro-
ceed to TOE which can be found following CAMBER
AND CASTER. Rear camber, caster and toe are not
adjustable. If found not to be within specifications,
reinspect for damaged suspension or body compo-
nents and replace as necessary.
CAMBER AND CASTER
Camber and caster settings on this vehicle are
determined at the time the vehicle is designed, by
the location of the vehicle's suspension components.
This is referred to as NET BUILD. The result is no
required adjustment of camber and caster after the
vehicle is built or when servicing the suspension
components. Thus, when performing a wheel align-
ment, caster and camber are not normally considered
adjustable angles. Camber and caster should be
checked to ensure they meet vehicle specifications.
If front camber is found not to meet alignment
specifications, it can be adjusted using an available
camber adjustment bolt package. Before installing a
camber adjustment bolt package on a vehicle found
to be outside the specifications, inspect the suspen-
sion components for any signs of damage or bending.
RSWHEEL ALIGNMENT2-51
WHEEL ALIGNMENT (Continued)
ProCarManuals.com
Use only brake fluid that was stored in a tightly-
sealed container.
DO NOTuse petroleum-based fluid because seal
damage will result. Petroleum based fluids would be
items such as engine oil, transmission fluid, power
steering fluid etc.
SPECIFICATIONS
BRAKE FLUID
The brake fluid used in this vehicle must conform
to DOT 3 specifications (DOT 4 and DOT 4+ are
acceptable) and SAE J1703 standards. No other type
of brake fluid is recommended or approved for usage
in the vehicle brake system. Use only MopartBrake
Fluid or equivalent from a tightly sealed container.
CAUTION: Never use reclaimed brake fluid or fluid
from an container which has been left open. An
open container of brake fluid will absorb moisture
from the air and contaminate the fluid.
CAUTION: Never use any type of a petroleum-based
fluid in the brake hydraulic system. Use of such
type fluids will result in seal damage of the vehicle
brake hydraulic system causing a failure of the
vehicle brake system. Petroleum based fluids would
be items such as engine oil, transmission fluid,
power steering fluid, etc.
JUNCTION BLOCK
DESCRIPTION - NON-ABS JUNCTION BLOCK
A junction block is used on vehicles that are not
equipped with antilock brakes (ABS). The junction
block mounts in the same location as the integrated
control unit (ICU) does on vehicles equipped with
ABS. This allows for use of the same brake tube con-
figuration on all vehicles. The junction block is
located on the driver's side of the front suspension
cradle/crossmember below the master cylinder (Fig.
45).
It has six threaded ports to which the brake tubes
connect. Two are for the primary and secondary
brake tubes coming from the master cylinder. The
remaining four are for the chassis brake tubes going
to each brake assembly.
OPERATION - NON-ABS JUNCTION BLOCK
The junction block distributes the brake fluid com-
ing from the master cylinder primary and secondary
ports to the four chassis brake tubes leading to the
brakes at each wheel. Since the junction blockmounts in the same location as the ABS integrated
control unit (ICU), it allows for the common use of
brake tubes going to the brakes whether the vehicle
is equipped with or without ABS.
NOTE: Although the brake tubes coming from the
master cylinder to the junction block or ABS ICU
may appear to be the same, they are not. They are
unique to each brake system application.
REMOVAL - NON-ABS JUNCTION BLOCK
(1) Using a brake pedal depressor, move and lock
the brake pedal to a position past its first 1 inch of
travel. This will prevent brake fluid from draining
out of the master cylinder when the brake tubes are
removed from the junction block.
(2) Disconnect the battery negative cable.
(3) If the vehicle is equipped with speed control,
perform the following:
(a) Disconnect the battery positive cable.
(b) Remove the battery (Refer to 8 - ELECTRI-
CAL/BATTERY SYSTEM/BATTERY - REMOVAL).
(c) Disconnect the vacuum hose connector at the
tank built into the battery tray.
(d) Remove the screw securing the coolant filler
neck to the battery tray.
(e) Remove the battery tray (Refer to 8 - ELEC-
TRICAL/BATTERY SYSTEM/TRAY - REMOVAL).
(f) Remove the fasteners and move the speed
control servo off to the side, out of the way.
CAUTION: Before removing the brake tubes from
the junction block, the junction block and the brake
tubes must be thoroughly cleaned. This is required
to prevent contamination from entering the brake
hydraulic system.
(4) Remove the four chassis brake tubes from the
top of the junction block (Fig. 45).
(5) Remove the primary and secondary brake
tubes from the top of the junction block.
(6) Remove the bolts attaching the junction block
mounting bracket to the front suspension crossmem-
ber (Fig. 45), then remove the junction block.
INSTALLATION - NON-ABS JUNCTION BLOCK
(1) Install the junction block and mounting bracket
on the front suspension crossmember (Fig. 45).
Install the mounting bolts and tighten to a torque of
28 N´m (250 in. lbs.).
(2) Install the primary and secondary brake tubes
from the master cylinder in their ports. Tighten tube
nuts to a torque of 17 N´m (145 in. lbs.).Take care
not to twist tubes when tightening tube nuts.
They must be properly positioned to allow free
RSBRAKES - BASE5-33
FLUID (Continued)
ProCarManuals.com
CAUTION: Before removing the master cylinder
from the power brake vacuum booster, the master
cylinder and vacuum booster must be thoroughly
cleaned. This must be done to prevent dirt particles
from falling into the power brake vacuum booster.
(12) Clean area where master cylinder assembly
attaches to power brake booster. Use only a solvent
such as MopartBrake Parts Cleaner or equivalent.
(13) Disconnect primary and secondary brake
tubes from ABS integrated control unit or non-ABS
junction block (Fig. 59). Install sealing plugs in the
now open brake tube ports and install caps on ends
of tubes.
NOTE: It is not necessary to remove the brake
tubes from the master cylinder when removing the
master cylinder from the vacuum booster.
(14) Remove two nuts attaching master cylinder to
power brake booster (Fig. 59).
(15) Slide master cylinder straight out of power
brake booster. Remove master cylinder with primary
and secondary tubes from vehicle.
CAUTION: A seal on the rear of the master cylinder
is used to create the seal for holding vacuum in the
power brake vacuum booster. The vacuum seal on
the master cylinder MUST be replaced whenever the
master cylinder is removed from the power brake
vacuum booster.
(16) Disconnect vacuum hose from check valve
located on vacuum booster.DO NOT REMOVE
CHECK VALVE FROM POWER BRAKE
BOOSTER.(17) Inside vehicle, remove silencer panel under
instrument panel below steering column.
(18) Locate the booster input rod to brake pedal
connection under the instrument panel. Position a
small screwdriver between the center tang on the
power brake booster input rod to brake pedal pin
retaining clip (Fig. 60).
(19) Rotate screwdriver enough to allow retaining
clip center tang to pass over end of brake pedal pin.
Then pull retaining clip off brake pedal pin.Discard
retaining clip. It is not to be reused. Replace
only with a new retaining clip when assem-
bling.
(20) Slide booster input rod off pedal pin.
(21) Remove the four nuts attaching power brake
booster to dash panel (Fig. 61).
(22) Slide power brake booster forward and remove
through engine compartment (Fig. 62).
CAUTION: Do not attempt to disassemble the power
brake vacuum booster. It is serviced ONLY as a
complete assembly.
REMOVAL - RHD
CAUTION: Reserve vacuum in power brake booster
must be pumped down (removed) before removing
master cylinder from booster. This is necessary to
prevent booster from sucking in any contamination
as master cylinder is removed. This can be done
simply by pumping the brake pedal, with the vehi-
cle's engine not running, until a firm feeling brake
pedal is achieved.
Fig. 59 Master Cylinder Mounting
1 - MASTER CYLINDER MOUNTING NUTS
2 - MASTER CYLINDER
3 - SECONDARY TUBE NUT AT ICU
4 - PRIMARY TUBE NUT AT ICU
Fig. 60 Vacuum Booster Input Rod Retaining Pin
1 - BRAKE PEDAL
2 - INPUT ROD
3 - SCREWDRIVER
4 - RETAINING CLIP
5 - BRAKE PEDAL PIN
RSBRAKES - BASE5-43
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER (Continued)
ProCarManuals.com
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - LHD
(1) Position power brake booster on dash panel
using the reverse procedure of its removal (Fig. 62).
It may be necessary to push in on booster input rod
as it is guided through the dash panel.
(2) Install the four nuts mounting the booster to
the dash panel (Fig. 61). Tighten the mounting nuts
to a torque of 29 N´m (250 in. lbs.).
(3) Using lubriplate, or equivalent, coat the sur-
face of the brake pedal pin where it contacts the
booster input rod.
CAUTION: When installing the brake pedal pin on
the power brake booster input rod, do not re-use
the old retaining clip.
(4) Install booster input rod on brake pedal pin
and install a NEW retaining clip (Fig. 68).
CAUTION: Do not reuse the original brake lamp
switch. The switch can only be adjusted once. That
is during initial installation of the switch. If the
switch is not adjusted properly or has been
removed for some service, a new switch must be
installed and adjusted.
(5) Remove and replace the brake lamp switch
with a NEW switch. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
LAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIOR/BRAKE LAMP
SWITCH - REMOVAL), (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
LAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIOR/BRAKE LAMP
SWITCH - INSTALLATION)
(6) Install the silencer panel below the steering
column.(7) Connect vacuum hose to check valve on power
brake booster.
CAUTION: The master cylinder (and its rear seal) is
used to create the seal for holding vacuum in the
vacuum booster. The vacuum seal on the master
cylinder MUST be replaced with a NEW seal when-
ever the master cylinder is removed from the vac-
uum booster.
CAUTION: When removing the vacuum seal from
the master cylinder do not use a sharp tool.
(8) Using a soft tool such as a trim stick, remove
the vacuum seal from the master cylinder mounting
flange.
(9) Install a NEW vacuum seal on rear mounting
flange of the master cylinder (Fig. 69).
(10) Position master cylinder on studs of booster,
aligning push rod on booster with master cylinder
piston.
(11) Install the two nuts mounting the master cyl-
inder to the booster (Fig. 59). Tighten both mounting
nuts to a torque of 25 N´m (225 in. lbs.).
(12) Connect wiring harness connector to brake
fluid level switch in the master cylinder fluid reser-
voir (Fig. 58).
(13) Connect primary and secondary brake tubes
to ABS ICU or non-ABS junction block (Fig. 59).
Tighten the tube nuts to 17 N´m (145 in lbs.).
(14) Install wiper module (unit). (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/WIPERS/WASHERS/WIPER MOD-
ULE - INSTALLATION)
(15) If equipped with speed control, install speed
control servo and connect wiring connector. Tighten
Fig. 67 RHD Booster Removal/Installation
1 - POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
2 - MASTER CYLINDER
Fig. 68 Retaining Pin Installed On Brake Pedal Pin
1 - BRAKE PEDAL
2 - RETAINING CLIP
3 - BOOSTER INPUT ROD
5 - 46 BRAKES - BASERS
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER (Continued)
ProCarManuals.com
STANDARD PROCEDURE - COOLING SYSTEM
FILLING
Remove radiator pressure cap (Fig. 6) and fill sys-
tem, using a 50/50 mix of MopartAntifreeze/Coolant,
5 Year/100,000 Mile Formula and distilled water.
Continue filling system until full.Be careful not
to spill coolant on drive belts or the generator.
For cooling system capacity, (Refer to LUBRICATION
& MAINTENANCE/FLUID CAPACITIES - SPECIFI-
CATIONS).
Fill coolant recovery/reserve container (Fig. 6) to at
least the MAX mark with 50/50 solution. It may be
necessary to add coolant to the recovery/reserve con-
tainer after three or four warm up/cool down cycles
to maintain coolant level between the MAX and MIN
mark. This will allow trapped air to be removed from
the system.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ADDING
ADDITIONAL COOLANT
The radiator cap should not be removed.
When additional coolant is needed to maintain this
level, it should be added to the coolant recovery/re-
serve container (Fig. 6). Use only 50/50 mix of ethyl-
ene glycol type antifreeze and distilled water. For the
recommeded antifreeze/coolant type (Refer to LUBRI-
CATION & MAINTENANCE/FLUID TYPES -
DESCRIPTION).
CAUTION: Do not use well water, or suspect water
supply in cooling system. A 50/50 ethylene glycol
and distilled water mix is recommended. For the
recommeded antifreeze/coolant type (Refer to
LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE/FLUID TYPES -
DESCRIPTION).
STANDARD PROCEDURE - COOLANT LEVEL
CHECK
NOTE: Do not remove radiator cap for routine cool-
ant level inspections.
The coolant reserve system provides a quick visual
method for determining the coolant level without
removing the radiator cap.With the engine cold
and not running,simply observe the level of the
coolant in the recovery/reserve container (Fig. 6). The
coolant level should be between the MIN and MAX
marks.
SPECIFICATIONS
ACCESSORY DRIVE BELT TENSION
ACCESSORY DRIVE BELT TENSION
2.4L ENGINE
Air Conditioning
Compressor/GeneratorDynamic Tensioner
Power
SteeringNew Belt534 - 756 N
(120 - 170 lbs.)
Used Belt*356 - 534 N
(80 - 120 lbs)
*Belt is considered used after 15 minutes of run-in
time
3.3/3.8L ENGINES
Air Conditioning Compressor
Dynamic Tensioner
Generator/Water Pump/
Power Steering
TORQUE
DESCRIPTION N´mFt.
Lbs.In.
Lbs.
Accessory Drive Belt Tensioner
Assembly (3.3/3.8L)ÐBolt28 Ð 250
Engine Coolant Temperature
Sensor
(2.4 & 3.3/3.8L) 7 Ð 60
Generator & A/C Compressor
Drive Belt Tensioner Assembly
(2.4L)ÐBolt54 40 Ð
Coolant Outlet Connector/
Thermostat Housing
(2.4 & 3.3/3.8L)ÐBolts 28 Ð 250
Water Pump
(2.4 & 3.3/3.8L)ÐBolts 12 Ð 105
Water Pump Inlet Tube
(2.4L)ÐBolts12 Ð 105
Water Pump Inlet Tube
(3.3/3.8L)ÐBolts28 Ð 250
Water Pump Pulley (3.3/3.8L)Ð
Bolts28 Ð 250
Radiator to A/C CondenserÐ
Screws5Ð45
Radiator FanÐScrews 5 Ð 45
Radiator Mounting (Upper
Bracket)ÐNuts12 Ð 105
RSCOOLING7-5
COOLING (Continued)
ProCarManuals.com
ACCESSORY DRIVE
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
DRIVE BELTS
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ACCESSORY
DRIVE BELT..........................7
DRIVE BELTS - 2.4L
STANDARD PROCEDURE - CHECKING
POWER STEERING BELT TENSION........8
REMOVAL.............................8
CLEANING.............................9
INSPECTION...........................9
INSTALLATION.........................10
ADJUSTMENTS........................10BELT TENSIONER - 2.4L
REMOVAL.............................10
INSTALLATION.........................10
DRIVE BELTS - 3.3/3.8L
REMOVAL.............................11
CLEANING............................11
INSPECTION..........................11
INSTALLATION.........................12
BELT TENSIONER - 3.3/3.8L
REMOVAL.............................12
INSTALLATION.........................12
DRIVE BELTS
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ACCESSORY
DRIVE BELT
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTIONS
INSUFFICIENT ACCESSORY
OUTPUT DUE TO BELT SLIPPAGE1. Belt too loose 1. (a) Replace belt (auto-tensioned
belts)
(b) Adjust power steering belt
tension (4 cyl. engine)
2. Belt excessively glazed or worn 2. Replace and tighten as specified
BELT SQUEAL WHEN
ACCELERATING ENGINE1. Belts too loose 1. (a) Replace belt (auto-tensioned
belts)
(b) Adjust power steering belt
tension (4 cyl. engine)
2. Belt glazed 2. Replace belts
BELT SQUEAK AT IDLE 1. Belts too loose 1. (a) Replace belt (auto-tensioned
belts)
(b) Adjust power steering belt
tension (4 cyl. engine)
2. Dirt or paint imbedded in belt 2. Replace belt
3. Non-uniform belt 3. Replace belt
4. Misaligned pulleys 4. Align accessories
5. Non-uniform groove or eccentric
pulley5. Replace pulley
RSACCESSORY DRIVE7-7
ProCarManuals.com