DESCRIPTION N´mFt.
Lbs.In.
Lbs.
Leaf Spring Plate-To-Axle
Bolts95 70 Ð
Leaf Spring Rear Mount-To-
Body Bolts61 45 Ð
Leaf Spring Shackle Plate
Nuts61 45 Ð
Shock Absorber Mounting
Bolts88 65 Ð
Stabilizer Bar Bushing
Retainer Bolts61 45 Ð
Stabilizer Bar Link Nuts 61 45 Ð
Stabilizer Bar Link Frame
Bracket Mounting Bolts61 45 Ð
Track Bar Bracket-To-Body
Mount Bolts61 45 Ð
Track Bar Pivot Bolts 95 70 Ð
Wheel Mounting (Lug) Nut 135 100 Ð
SPECIAL TOOLS
REAR SUSPENSION
BUSHINGS
REMOVAL - LEAF SPRING FRONT BUSHING
(1) Raise vehicle on frame-contact hoist as follows:
(a) Position the hoist arm supporting the corner
of the vehicle to be serviced against a block of wood
placed on the body sill as shown (Fig. 3).
(b) Position the remaining hoist arms at each
corner of the vehicle in the normal fashion. (Refer
to LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE/HOISTING
- STANDARD PROCEDURE)
(c) Raise the vehicle to a comfortable working
level.
(2) Position an under-hoist utility jack or transmis-
sion jack under rear axle toward the side needing
bushing replacement. Jack pad should just contact
axle.
(3) Remove shock absorber lower mounting bolt.
NOTE: If shock absorber bolt deflects upward dur-
ing removal, raise axle by adjusting support jack. If
shock absorber bolt deflects downward during
removal, lower axle by adjusting support jack (or by
pulling on axle).
(4) Remove four bolts securing leaf spring front
mounting bracket to the body (Fig. 3).
(5) Using jack,slowlylower rear axle, permitting
the forward end of rear spring to hang down. Lower
it enough to allow access to spring pivot bolt. It may
be necessary to place a wooden block between the
spring and vehicle to hold forward end of the spring
in place.
(6) Remove leaf spring forward pivot bolt, then
remove mounting bracket.
Remover, Hub/Bearing 8458
Remover/Installer, Bushing 8459
Remover/Installer, Bushing 8526
Press, Ball Joint C-4212F
2 - 28 REAR SUSPENSIONRS
REAR SUSPENSION (Continued)
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(2) Remove the nut and bolt attaching the track
bar to the track bar mount on the body of the vehicle.
Remove the track bar from the track bar mount.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the track bar first into the body mount
for the track bar (Fig. 42). Install the track bar bolt
with the head of the bolt facing toward the rear of
the vehicle (Fig. 43). Do not tighten.
(2) Install the track bar into its mounting bracket
on the rear axle (Fig. 41). Install the track bar bolt
with the head of the bolt facing toward the rear of
the vehicle. Do not tighten.
(3) Lower the vehicle to the ground until the full
weight of the vehicle is supported by the wheels.
Tighten both track bar attaching bolts to a torque of
95 N´m (70 ft. lbs.).
Fig. 42 Track Bar Installation (Typical)
1 - TRACK BAR REPLACEMENT
Fig. 43 Track Bar Bolt Installation
1 - TRACK BAR BOLT
RSREAR SUSPENSION2-45
TRACK BAR (Continued)
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Calibrate the tester according to the manufactur-
er's instructions. The shop air source for testing
should maintain 483 kPa (70 psi) minimum, 1,379
kPa (200 psi) maximum, with 552 kPa (80 psi) rec-
ommended.
Perform the test procedures on each cylinder
according to the tester manufacturer's instructions.
While testing, listen for pressurized air escaping
through the throttle body, tailpipe and oil filler cap
opening. Check for bubbles in the coolant.
All gauge pressure indications should be equal,
with no more than 25% leakage per cylinder.
FOR EXAMPLE:At 552 kPa (80 psi) input pres-
sure, a minimum of 414 kPa (60 psi) should be main-
tained in the cylinder.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ENGINE CORE AND
OIL GALLERY PLUGS
Using a blunt tool such as a drift and a hammer,
strike the bottom edge of the cup plug. With the cup
plug rotated, grasp firmly with pliers or other suit-
able tool and remove plug (Fig. 2).
CAUTION: Do not drive cup plug into the casting as
restricted cooling can result and cause serious
engine problems.Thoroughly clean inside of cup plug hole in cylin-
der block or head. Be sure to remove old sealer.
Lightly coat inside of cup plug hole with Mopart
Stud and Bearing Mount. Make certain the new plug
is cleaned of all oil or grease. Using proper drive
plug, drive plug into hole so that the sharp edge of
the plug is at least 0.5 mm (0.020 in.) inside the
lead-in chamfer.
It is not necessary to wait for curing of the sealant.
The cooling system can be refilled and the vehicle
placed in service immediately.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - REPAIR OF
DAMAGED OR WORN THREADS
Damaged or worn threads (excluding spark plug
and camshaft bearing cap attaching threads) can be
repaired. Essentially, this repair consists of drilling
out worn or damaged threads, tapping the hole with
a special Heli-Coil Tap, (or equivalent) and installing
an insert into the tapped hole. This brings the hole
back to its original thread size.
CAUTION: Be sure that the tapped holes maintain
the original center line.
Heli-Coil tools and inserts are readily available
from automotive parts jobbers.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - HYDROSTATIC
LOCKED ENGINE
When an engine is suspected to be hydrostatically
locked, regardless of what caused the problem, the
following steps should be used.
CAUTION: DO NOT use starter motor to rotate the
engine, severe damage may occur.
(1) Inspect air cleaner, induction system and
intake manifold to insure system is dry and clear of
foreign material.
(2) Remove negative battery cable.
(3) Place a shop towel around the spark plugs
when removing them from the engine. This will catch
any fluid that may possibly be in the cylinder under
pressure.
(4) With all spark plugs removed, rotate engine
crankshaft using a breaker bar and socket.
(5) Identify the fluid in the cylinder(s) (i.e., cool-
ant, fuel, oil or other).
(6) Make sure all fluid has been removed from the
cylinders. Inspect engine for damage (i.e., connecting
rods, pistons, valves, etc.)
(7) Repair engine or components as necessary to
prevent this problem from re-occurring.
Fig. 2 Core Hole Plug Removal
1 - CYLINDER BLOCK
2 - REMOVE PLUG WITH PLIERS
3 - STRIKE HERE WITH HAMMER
4 - DRIFT PUNCH
5 - CUP PLUG
9 - 10 ENGINE 2.4LRS
ENGINE 2.4L (Continued)
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(1) Inspect air cleaner, induction system and
intake manifold to insure system is dry and clear of
foreign material.
(2) Remove negative battery cable.
(3) Place a shop towel around the spark plugs
when removing them from the engine. This will catch
any fluid that may possibly be in the cylinder under
pressure.
(4) With all spark plugs removed, rotate engine
crankshaft using a breaker bar and socket.
(5) Identify the fluid in the cylinder(s) (i.e., cool-
ant, fuel, oil or other).
(6) Make sure all fluid has been removed from the
cylinders. Inspect engine for damage (i.e., connecting
rods, pistons, valves, etc.)
(7) Repair engine or components as necessary to
prevent this problem from re-occurring.
CAUTION: Squirt approximately one teaspoon of oil
into the cylinders, rotate engine to lubricate the cyl-
inder walls to prevent damage on restart.
(8) Install new spark plugs.
(9) Drain engine oil and remove oil filter.
(10) Install a new oil filter.
(11) Fill engine with specified amount of approved
oil.
(12) Connect negative battery cable.
(13) Start engine and check for any leaks.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - REPAIR OF
DAMAGED OR WORN THREADS
Damaged or worn threads (excluding spark plug
and camshaft bearing cap attaching threads) can be
repaired. Essentially, this repair consists of drilling
out worn or damaged threads, tapping the hole with
a special Heli-Coil Tap, (or equivalent) and installing
an insert into the tapped hole. This brings the hole
back to its original thread size.
CAUTION: Be sure that the tapped holes maintain
the original center line.
Heli-Coil tools and inserts are readily available
from automotive parts jobbers.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ENGINE CORE AND
OIL GALLERY PLUGS
Using a blunt tool such as a drift and a hammer,
strike the bottom edge of the cup plug. With the cup
plug rotated, grasp firmly with pliers or other suit-
able tool and remove plug (Fig. 5).
CAUTION: Do not drive cup plug into the casting as
restricted cooling can result and cause serious
engine problems.Thoroughly clean inside of cup plug hole in cylin-
der block or head. Be sure to remove old sealer.
Lightly coat inside of cup plug hole with Mopart
Stud and Bearing Mount. Make certain the new plug
is cleaned of all oil or grease. Using proper drive
plug, drive plug into hole so that the sharp edge of
the plug is at least 0.5 mm (0.020 in.) inside the
lead-in chamfer.
It is not necessary to wait for curing of the sealant.
The cooling system can be refilled and the vehicle
placed in service immediately.
REMOVAL - ENGINE ASSEMBLY
(1) Perform fuel pressure release procedure (Refer
to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY - STAN-
DARD PROCEDURE).
(2) Disconnect negative battery cable.
(3) Remove air cleaner and hoses.
(4) Disconnect the fuel line from fuel rail (Refer to
14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY/QUICK
CONNECT FITTING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(5) Remove the wiper module (Refer to 8 - ELEC-
TRICAL/WIPERS/WASHERS/WIPER MODULE -
REMOVAL).
(6) Block off heater hoses to the rear heater sys-
tem using pinch-off pliers (if equipped).
(7) Drain the cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(8) Disconnect the heater hoses.
(9) Remove the radiator upper support crossmem-
ber (Refer to 23 - BODY/EXTERIOR/GRILLE OPEN-
ING REINFORCEMENT - REMOVAL).
(10) Remove the radiator fans (Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING/ENGINE/RADIATOR FAN - REMOVAL).
Fig. 5 Core Hole Plug Removal
1 - CYLINDER BLOCK
2 - REMOVE PLUG WITH PLIERS
3 - STRIKE HERE WITH HAMMER
4 - DRIFT PUNCH
5 - CUP PLUG
9 - 86 ENGINE 3.3/3.8LRS
ENGINE 3.3/3.8L (Continued)
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CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
5. Lower control arm pivot bushing
worn.5. Replace lower control arm pivot
bushing.
6. Loose strut assembly mounting
fasteners at tower or knuckle.6. Tighten strut assembly fasteners to the
specified torque.
7. Power steering fluid hose touching
the body of the vehicle.7. Adjust hose to proper position by
loosening, repositioning, and tightening
attachments to specified torque. Do not
bend tubing.
8. Internal power steering gear
noise.8. Replace power steering gear.
9. Damaged front suspension
crossmember.9. Replace front suspension
crossmember.
10. Stabilizer bar link ball joints
worn.10. Replace stabilizer bar link.
11. Lug nuts loose. 11. Tighten lug nuts to specifications.
12. Excessive Wheel bearing
free-play.12. Verify correct driveshaft hub nut
torque. Replace bearing if torque is okay.
POPPING NOISE 1. Worn outer tie rod. 1. Check ball joint for free-play; Replace
outer tie rod.
2. Loose inner tie rod. 2. Replace power steering gear.
CHIRP OR SQUEAL
(POWER STEERING
PUMP)1. Loose power steering pump drive
belt.1. Check and adjust power steering
pump drive belt to specifications or
replace automatic tensioner where
applicable. Replace belt if worn or
glazed.
2. Malfuctioning belt auto-tensioner 2. Replace belt auto-tensioner.
WHINE, GROWL, MOAN
OR GROAN (POWER
STEERING PUMP)***1. Low fluid level. 1. Fill power steering fluid reservoir to
proper level and check for leaks (make
sure all air is bled from the system fluid).
2. Power steering hose touching
vehicle body or frame.2. Adjust hose to proper position by
loosening, repositioning, and tightening
fitting to specified torque. Do not bend
tubing. Replace hose if damaged.
3. Extreme wear of power steering
pump internal components.3. Replace power steering pump and
flush system as necessary.
4. Extremely low ambient
temperature.4. Some noise can be expected, but will
go away as vehicle warms. Replace
pump if noise is excessive.
SUCKING AIR SOUND 1. Loose clamp on power steering
fluid return hose.1. Tighten or replace hose clamp.
2. Missing O-Ring on power steering
hose connection.2. Inspect connection and replace O-Ring
as required.
3. Low power steering fluid level. 3. Fill power steering fluid reservoir to
proper level and check for leaks.
4. Loose clamp on fluid supply hose. 4. Tighten or replace hose clamp.
19 - 4 STEERINGRS
STEERING (Continued)
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INSTALLATION
(1) Engage clip into outside handle to hold lock
cylinder (Fig. 11).
(2) With link arm toward rear of vehicle, push lock
cylinder into door handle until clip snaps into place.
(3) Insert lock linkage into door latch.
(4) Engage clip to hold door lock linkage to latch.
(5) Insert latch linkage into door latch.
(6) Engage clip to hold door latch linkage to latch.
(7) Install push in fasteners attaching VTSS
switch harness to inner door reinforcement bar, if
equipped.
(8) Connect VTSS switch connector into door har-
ness, if equipped.
(9) Verify door latch operation.
(10) Install watershield and door trim panel.
TRIM PANEL
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the plug and remove screw attaching
door pull cup to inner door panel.
(2) Remove switch bezel and disconnect power win-
dow/memory switch.
(3) Remove screws attaching trim panel to door
from below map pocket.(4) If equipped, remove window crank. (Refer to 23
- BODY/DOOR - FRONT/WINDOW CRANK -
REMOVAL)
(5) Remove screw holding door trim to door panel
from behind inside latch release handle.
(6) Disengage clips attaching door trim to door
frame around perimeter of panel.
(7) Lift trim panel upward to disengage flange
from inner belt molding at top of door.
(8) Tilt top of trim panel away from door to gain
access to latch linkage.
(9) Disengage clip attaching linkage rod to inside
latch release handle (Fig. 12).
(10) Separate linkage rod from latch handle.
(11) Disconnect the power door switch, courtesy
lamp electrical connectors.
(12) Remove front door trim panel from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
(1) Hold top of trim panel away from door to gain
access to latch linkage.
(2) Place linkage rod in position on latch handle.
(3) Engage clip to hold linkage rod to inside latch
release handle.
(4) Place front door trim panel in position on door.
(5) Install trim panel into inner belt molding at
top of door.
Fig. 11 OUTSIDE DOOR HANDLE
1 - CLIP
2 - LOCK CYLINDER
3 - KEY CYLINDER TO LATCH LINK
4 - OUTSIDE HANDLE TO LATCH LINK5 - LOCK KNOB LINK
6 - FRONT DOOR
7 - KEY POSITION SWITCH
8 - OUTSIDE HANDLE
23 - 20 DOOR - FRONTRS
LOCK CYLINDER (Continued)
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INSTALLATION
NOTE: The crossbar assemblies are designed to be
installed in only one way. Check top and bottom
surfaces of the crossbar for the word FRONT and
directional arrows. The directional arrows must
point toward the front of the vehicle.
(1) Place crossbar in position on vehicle.
(2) Work from side to side sliding the crossbar
assembly back a little at a time to ensure it remains
perpendicular to the side rails.
(3) Position first crossbar assembly crossbar at the
second most rearward locator holes. Press the top of
the stanchion lever to lock it into position.
(4) Position the second crossbar assembly in the
second hole from the front. Lock into place.
(5) Place luggage rack riser into position.
(6) Install two fasteners into riser. Tighten fasten-
ers to 4 mm (35 in. lbs.) torque.
REAR QUARTER PANEL/
FENDER AIR EXHAUSTER
DESCRIPTION
Air exhausters, designed to conform to the body
structure, allow air entering at the front of the vehi-
cle to flow out the back. By reducing air pressure
within the vehicle, the exhausters also reduce blower
noise at any given air flow level compared to operat-
ing without them and help reduce door closing effort.
They are located in the lower rear comers of the
body.
REMOVAL
SHORT WHEELBASE
(1) Remove the rear fascia from the body. (Refer to
13 - FRAMES & BUMPERS/BUMPERS/REAR FAS-
CIA - REMOVAL).
(2) Using a trim stick or another suitable wide flat
bladed tool, carefully pry the air exhauster away
from the opening in the lower aperture panel until
the snap features release (Fig. 19).
(3) Remove the air exhauster from the hole in the
lower aperture panel.
LONG WHEELBASE
NOTE: Models with the optional rear heater and air
conditioner do not have an air exhauster on the
right side of the vehicle, but have a plastic plug
installed in the right lower aperture panel. This plug
is removed using the same procedure used toremove the air exhauster from the short wheelbase
model. Refer to SHORT WHEELBASE.
(1) Remove the quarter trim panel from the inside
of the left or right quarter inner panel (Refer to 23 -
BODY/INTERIOR/RIGHT QUARTER TRIM PANEL
- REMOVAL) or (Refer to 23 - BODY/INTERIOR/
LEFT QUARTER TRIM PANEL - REMOVAL).
(2) Using a trim stick or another suitable wide flat
bladed tool, carefully pry the air exhauster away
from the opening in the lower aperture panel until
the snap features release (Fig. 20).
(1) Remove the air exhauster from the hole in the
lower aperture panel.
Fig. 19 AIR EXHAUSTER - SWB
1 - LOWER APERTURE PANEL
2 - AIR EXHAUSTER
Fig. 20 AIR EXHAUSTER - LWB
1 - AIR EXHAUSTER
2 - PLUG
3 - LOWER APERTURE PANEL
23 - 56 EXTERIORRS
LUGGAGE RACK CROSSBAR (Continued)
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CAUTION:
When removing the heater hose from the heater
core or supply and return tube nipples, DO NOT
apply excessive pressure. Excessive pressure may
damage or deform the nipples and/or the heater
core causing an engine coolant leak.
(3) After the clamp has been moved, grasp the end
of the hose firmly and carefully twist the hose back
and forth while pulling it away from the barbed end
of the nipple. Repeat this procedure at the opposite
end of the hose being removed. If this procedure is
not successful in removing the hose from the nipple,
carefully make a parallel cut through the hose where
it is engaged on the nipple and peel the hose off of
the nipple. This method of removal will require
heater hose replacement.
INSTALLATION
There are several heater core plumbing configura-
tions used on this model, depending upon the engine
size and other optional equipment. One plumbing
configuration is used for all 2.4L engines, while the
3.3L and 3.8L engines have unique heater return
plumbing on the engine for models with or without
an optional engine oil cooler. There are also unique
plumbing configurations at the heater core for mod-
els with or without the optional rear heater and air
conditioner. All models use a combination of formed
steel tubing and rubber hoses. In most cases, the
rubber hose is secured to the steel tubing with a
spring tension clamp.WARNING: REFER TO THE APPLICABLE WARN-
INGS AND CAUTIONS FOR THIS SYSTEM BEFORE
PERFORMING THE FOLLOWING OPERATION.
(Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/
PLUMBING FRONT - WARNING - HEATER PLUMB-
ING).
(1) Using spring tension clamp pliers, compress
and slide the clamps that secure each end of the
heater hose toward the center of the hose being
installed. Release the clamp when it is near the cen-
ter of the hose.
(2) Grasp one end of the heater hose being
installed firmly and carefully twist the hose back and
forth while pushing it over from the barbed end of
the nipple. Repeat this procedure at the opposite end
of the hose being installed.
(3) Using spring tension clamp pliers, compress
and slide the clamps that secure each end of the
heater hose over the tube or nipple. Release the
clamp when it is over the tube or nipple.
(4) Refill the engine cooling system. (Refer to 7 -
COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE - COOLING
SYSTEM REFILL).
LIQUID LINE
REMOVAL
The front air conditioner liquid line is serviced in
two sections. The front section connects between the
condenser and the filter/drier and includes the high
side service port on the fitting for the filter/drier. The
rear section connects between the filter/drier and the
expansion valve and includes the fitting for the A/C
pressure transducer. On models equipped with the
optional rear air conditioner, the rear section of the
front air conditioner liquid line also includes a liquid
line hose and tube extension that connects the front
liquid line to the liquid line for the rear air condi-
tioner.
WARNING: REFER TO THE APPLICABLE WARN-
INGS AND CAUTIONS FOR THIS SYSTEM BEFORE
PERFORMING THE FOLLOWING OPERATION.
(Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/
PLUMBING - FRONT - WARNING - A/C PLUMBING)
and (Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/
PLUMBING - FRONT - CAUTION - A/C PLUMBING).
FRONT SECTION
(1) Recover the refrigerant from the refrigerant
system. (Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDI-
TIONING/PLUMBING - FRONT/REFRIGERANT -
STANDARD PROCEDURE - REFRIGERANT
RECOVERY).
Fig. 25 Heater Return - 3.3/3.8L Engine w/Oil Cooler
1 - ENGINE INLET NIPPLE
2 - HEATER RETURN TUBE & HOSE
3 - SCREW
4 - SCREW
5 - OIL COOLER
6 - HEATER RETURN HOSE
24 - 80 PLUMBING - FRONTRS
HEATER HOSE (Continued)
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