2003 CHRYSLER CARAVAN four wheel drive

HUB / BEARING
DESCRIPTION
The front wheel bearing and front wheel hub of
this vehicle are a hub and bearing unit type assem-
bly (Unit III). This unit combines the front wheel
mounting hub (flange) and the front wheel bearing
into a sealed one-piece unit. The hub and bearing is
mounted to the center of the steering knuckle (Fig.
1). It is retained by four mounting bolts accessible
from the inboard side of the steering knuckle. The
hub flange has five wheel mounting studs.
The wheel mounting studs used to mount the tire
and wheel to the vehicle are the only replaceable
components of the hub and bearing assembly. Other-
wise, the hub and bearing is serviced only as a com-
plete assembly.
OPERATION
The hub and bearing has internal bearings that
allow the hub to rotate with the driveshaft, along
with the tire and wheel. The five wheel mounting
studs mount the tire and wheel, and brake rotor to
the vehicle.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HUB AND
BEARING
The condition of the front hub and bearing assem-
bly is diagnosed using the inspection and testing pro-
cedure detailed below.
The bearing contained in the Unit III front hub/
bearing assembly will produce noise and vibration
when worn or damaged. The noise will generally
change when the bearings are loaded. A road test of
the vehicle is normally required to determine the
location of a worn or damaged bearing.
Find a smooth level road surface and bring the
vehicle up to a constant speed. When vehicle is at a
constant speed, swerve the vehicle back and forth
from the left and to the right. This will load and
unload the bearings and change the noise level.
When bearing damage is slight, the noise is some-
times noticeable at lower speeds and at other times
is more noticeable at speeds above 105 km/h (65
mph).
REMOVAL
NOTE: Replacement of the Unit III front hub/bearing
assembly can be normally done without having to
remove the steering knuckle from the vehicle. In the
event that the hub/bearing is frozen in the steering
knuckle and cannot be removed by hand, it will
have to be pressed out of the steering knuckle. The
steering knuckle will require removal from the vehi-
cle to allow the hub/bearing assembly to bepressed out of the steering knuckle. (Refer to 2 -
SUSPENSION/FRONT/KNUCKLE - REMOVAL)
(1) Raise vehicle. (Refer to LUBRICATION &
MAINTENANCE/HOISTING - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE)
(2) Remove wheel lug nuts, and front tire and
wheel assembly.
(3) Remove the cotter pin, nut lock and spring
washer from the stub axle (Fig. 4).
(4) With aid of a helper applying the brakes to
keep the front hub from turning, remove the hub nut
(Fig. 4).
(5) Remove disc brake caliper and adapter as an
assembly from knuckle as shown (Fig. 5). Hang
assembly out of the way using a bungee cord or wire.
Do not allow caliper hang by brake hose.
(6) Remove brake rotor from hub and bearing (Fig.
5).
(7) Push in on end of driveshaft stub shaft, push-
ing its splines out of the hub splines.
(8) Remove the four hub and bearing mounting
bolts from the rear of steering knuckle (Fig. 6).Use
care not to come in contact with and damage
the ABS tone wheel on the driveshaft stub shaft
upon bolt removal.
(9) Remove the hub and bearing assembly from
the steering knuckle.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: Hub and bearing assembly mounting
surfaces on the steering knuckle and stub axle (Fig.
7) must be smooth and completely free of foreign
material or nicks prior to installing hub and bearing
assembly.
Fig. 4 Hub Nut
1 - HUB NUT
2 - NUT LOCK
3 - COTTER PIN
4 - SPRING WASHER
RSFRONT SUSPENSION2-5
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(7) Remove tie rod end from steering knuckle
using Remover, Special Tool C-3894±A (Fig. 12).(8) If equipped with antilock brakes, remove the
front wheel speed sensor from the steering knuckle
(Fig. 13).
(9) Remove the two steering knuckle-to-strut clevis
bracket attaching bolts.
(10) Tip the knuckle outward and remove the
driveshaft stub axle from the hub and bearing. Sus-
pend driveshaft straight outward using a bungee
cord or wire (Fig. 10).Do not allow driveshaft to
hang by inner joint.
(11) Remove ball joint nut using a power impact
wrench. Because the tapered stud is held sufficiently
in the knuckle at this time, it is not necessary to
hold the stud stationary to remove the nut.
(12) Reinstall the ball joint nut until the top of the
nut is even with the top of the ball joint stud. This
will keep the stud from distorting while the stud is
released from the knuckle in the following step.
CAUTION: Do not remove ball joint stud from steer-
ing knuckle using a hammer. Damage to the Alumi-
num knuckle, ball joint or control arm will result.
(13) Release ball joint stud from steering knuckle
using Remover, Special Tool C-4150A, as shown (Fig.
14). To ease Remover installation and use, it may
help to rotate the knuckle around so the inside of the
knuckle faces outward.
(14) Remove the nut from the top of the ball joint
stud.
(15) Remove the steering knuckle from the vehicle.
(16) If the hub and bearing needs to be trans-
ferred, remove the four bolts attaching the hub and
bearing to the knuckle, then remove the hub and
bearing.
Fig. 11 Removing Tie Rod End Attaching Nut
1 - TIE ROD END
2 - STEERING KNUCKLE
3 - WRENCH
4 - SOCKET
5 - TIE ROD END STUD
Fig. 12 Tie Rod Removal With Tool C-3894-A
1 - OUTER TIE ROD
2 - SPECIAL TOOL C-3894-A
3 - STEERING KNUCKLE
Fig. 13 Front Wheel Speed Sensor
1 - MOUNTING BOLT
2 - WHEEL SPEED SENSOR
3 - STEERING KNUCKLE
2 - 8 FRONT SUSPENSIONRS
KNUCKLE (Continued)
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(8) Raise the under-hoist utility jack or transmis-
sion jack, guiding the forward mounting bracket into
place against the body. It may help to use a drift
punch placed through the hole centered between the
mounting bolt holes in the bracket and the pilot hole
in the body of the vehicle as a guide. When the four
mounting bolt holes line up with their threads in the
body, Install the mounting bolts (Fig. 3). Tighten the
four mounting bolts to 61 N´m (45 ft. lbs.) torque.
(9) Raise or lower the jack until shock absorber
lower eye aligns with threads in axle housing. Install
shock absorber lower mounting bolt. Do not fully
tighten bolt at this time.
(10) Lower the vehicle and remove hoist arms and
block of wood from under vehicle.
(11) Tighten the spring front pivot bolt to 156 N´m
(115 ft. lbs.) torque.
(12) Tighten the lower shock absorber mounting
bolt to 88 N´m (65 ft. lbs.) torque.
HUB / BEARING
DESCRIPTION
The rear wheel bearing and rear wheel hub of this
vehicle are a one-piece sealed unit, or hub and bear-
ing unit type assembly (Unit III). The hub and bear-
ing is mounted to the center of the rear axle using 4mounting bolts. It has five wheel mounting studs on
the hub flange.
All-Wheel-Drive vehicles have a hub and bearing
unit with a splined hole in the center of the hub for
rear driveshaft stub axle acceptance.
Front-Wheel-Drive vehicles with antilock brakes
have an internally mounted wheel speed sensor and
tone wheel. This hub and bearing can be identified
by the rounded cap and molded in connector on the
rear of the assembly (Fig. 7). The sensor and tone
wheel cannot be serviced separately from the hub
and bearing.
OPERATION
The hub and bearing has internal bearings that
allow the hub to rotate with the tire and wheel
assembly (and driveshaft on All-Wheel-Drive vehi-
cles). The five wheel mounting studs mount the tire
and wheel assembly, and disc brake rotor or brake
drum to the vehicle.
On All-Wheel-Drive vehicles, the splined mating of
the driveshaft stub axle and hub allows the drive-
shaft to rotate with the hub and wheel.
Front-Wheel-Drive vehicles equipped with antilock
brakes have a wheel speed sensor and tone wheel
mounted to the rear of the hub and bearing. The tone
wheel rotates with the hub which is sensed by the
wheel speed sensor.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HUB AND
BEARING
The bearing contained in the hub and bearing
assembly will produce noise and vibration when worn
or damaged. The noise will generally change when
the bearings are loaded. A road test of the vehicle is
normally required to determine the location of a
worn or damaged bearing.
Find a smooth level road surface and bring the
vehicle up to a constant speed. When vehicle is at a
Fig. 6 TOOL 8459 MOUNTED FOR BUSHING
INSTALLATION
1 - NUT
2 - WASHER
3 - BEARING
4 - LEAF SPRING EYE
5 - BUSHING
6 - INSTALLER PLATE (8459-3)
7 - PIN
8 - BODY (8459-1)
Fig. 7 Hub And Bearing - FWD With ABS
2 - 30 REAR SUSPENSIONRS
BUSHINGS (Continued)
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The 2 rubber isolated links are connected to the
rear frame rails by brackets. These brackets are
bolted to the bottom of the frame rails.
OPERATION
Jounce and rebound movements affecting one
wheel are partially transmitted to the opposite wheel
to reduce body roll.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - AWD
(1) Raise vehicle. (Refer to LUBRICATION &
MAINTENANCE/HOISTING - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE)
(2) Remove the bolts securing the stabilizer bar to
links on each end of the bar.
(3) While holding the stabilizer bar in place,
remove the bolts that attach the stabilizer bar bush-
ing retainers to the rear axle.
(4) Remove the stabilizer bar from the vehicle.
(5) If the links need to be serviced, remove the
upper link arm to bracket bolt. Then remove link
arm from frame rail attaching bracket.
REMOVAL - FWD
(1) Raise vehicle. See Hoisting in Lubrication and
Maintenance.
(2) Remove the bolts securing the stabilizer bar to
links on each side of bar.
(3) While holding the stabilizer bar in place,
remove the bolts that attach the stabilizer bar bush-
ing retainers to the rear axle.
(4) Remove the stabilizer bar from the vehicle.
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - AWD
(1) Install the stabilizer bar on the rear axle.
(2) Install bushing retainer bolts. Do not tighten at
this time.
(3) Install bolts connecting links to stabilizer bar.
Do not tighten at this time.
(4) Lower the vehicle so that the full weight of the
vehicle is on all four tires. With the vehicle at its
curb height, tighten the following bolts to the torques
listed:
²Stabilizer bar bushing retainer-to-axle bracket
bolts Ð 61 N´m (45 ft. lbs.)
²Stabilizer bar-to-link bolts Ð 61 N´m (45 ft. lbs.)
INSTALLATION - FWD
(1) Lift the stabilizer bar onto the rear axle and
install the two retainer mounting bolts. DO NOT
TIGHTEN.
(2) Install the bolts attaching the stabilizer bar
links to the stabilizer bar. DO NOT TIGHTEN.
(3) Lower the vehicle so that the full weight of the
vehicle is on all four tires. With the vehicle at its
curb height, tighten the following bolts to the torques
listed:
²Stabilizer bar bushing retainer-to-axle bracket
bolts Ð 61 N´m (45 ft. lbs.)
²Stabilizer bar-to-link Ð 61 N´m (45 ft. lbs.)
TRACK BAR
DESCRIPTION
On front-wheel-drive applications of this vehicle
that are equipped with single leaf rear springs, a
track bar is used on the rear axle (Fig. 1).
The track bar connects the rear axle to the frame/
body of the vehicle. The track bar is isolated from the
body of the vehicle by an isolator bushing located in
each end of the track bar.
OPERATION
The track bar prevents excessive side-to-side move-
ment of the rear axle. The track bar is used to keep
the location of the axle in the correct position for
optimum handling and control of the vehicle.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the nut and bolt mounting the track
bar to the rear axle (Fig. 41).
Fig. 41 Track Bar Mounting To Axle (Typical)
1 - LOWER TRACK BAR BOLT INSTALLATION
2 - 44 REAR SUSPENSIONRS
STABILIZER BAR (Continued)
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CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
Excessive Steering Effort 1. Low tire pressure 1. Inflate all tires to recommended
pressure
2. Lack of lubricant in steering gear 2. Replace steering gear
3. Low power steering fluid level 3. Fill power steering fluid reservoir to
correct level
4. Loose power steering pump drive
belt4. Correctly adjust power steering pump
drive belt
5. Lack of lubricant in ball joints 5. Lubricate or replace ball joints
6. Steering gear malfunction 6. Replace steering gear
7. Lack of lubricant in steering coupler 7. Replace steering coupler
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - WHEEL ALIGNMENT
PRE-WHEEL ALIGNMENT INSPECTION
Before any attempt is made to change or correct
the wheel alignment, the following inspection and
necessary corrections must be made to ensure proper
alignment.
(1) Verify that the fuel tank is full of fuel. If the
tank is not full, the reduction in weight will affect
the curb height of the vehicle and the alignment
angles.
(2) The passenger and luggage compartments of
the vehicle should be free of any load that is not fac-
tory equipment.
(3) Check the tires on the vehicle. All tires must be
the same size and in good condition with approxi-
mately the same amount of tread wear. Inflate all
the tires to the recommended air pressure.
(4) Check the front wheel and tire assemblies for
excessive radial runout.
(5) Inspect lower ball joints and all steering link-
age for looseness, binding, wear or damage. Repair as
necessary.
(6) Check suspension fasteners for proper torque
and retighten as necessary.
(7) Inspect all suspension component rubber bush-
ings for signs of wear or deterioration. Replace any
faulty bushings or components before aligning the
vehicle.
(8) Check the vehicle's curb height to verify it is
within specifications. Refer to Curb Height Measure-
ment.
WHEEL ALIGNMENT SETUP
(1) Position the vehicle on an alignment rack.
(2) Install all required alignment equipment on
the vehicle per the alignment equipment manufactur-
er's instructions. On this vehicle, a four-wheel align-
ment is recommended.NOTE: Prior to reading the vehicle's alignment
readouts, the front and rear of vehicle should be
jounced. Induce jounce (rear first, then front) by
grasping the center of the bumper and jouncing
each end of vehicle an equal number of times. The
bumper should always be released when vehicle is
at the bottom of the jounce cycle.
(3) Read the vehicle's current front and rear align-
ment settings. Compare the vehicle's current align-
ment settings to the vehicle specifications for camber,
caster and toe-in. (Refer to 2 - SUSPENSION/
WHEEL ALIGNMENT - SPECIFICATIONS)
(4) If front camber and caster are not within spec-
ifications, proceed to CAMBER AND CASTER below.
If caster and camber are within specifications, pro-
ceed to TOE which can be found following CAMBER
AND CASTER. Rear camber, caster and toe are not
adjustable. If found not to be within specifications,
reinspect for damaged suspension or body compo-
nents and replace as necessary.
CAMBER AND CASTER
Camber and caster settings on this vehicle are
determined at the time the vehicle is designed, by
the location of the vehicle's suspension components.
This is referred to as NET BUILD. The result is no
required adjustment of camber and caster after the
vehicle is built or when servicing the suspension
components. Thus, when performing a wheel align-
ment, caster and camber are not normally considered
adjustable angles. Camber and caster should be
checked to ensure they meet vehicle specifications.
If front camber is found not to meet alignment
specifications, it can be adjusted using an available
camber adjustment bolt package. Before installing a
camber adjustment bolt package on a vehicle found
to be outside the specifications, inspect the suspen-
sion components for any signs of damage or bending.
RSWHEEL ALIGNMENT2-51
WHEEL ALIGNMENT (Continued)
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REAR DRIVELINE MODULE
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
REAR DRIVELINE MODULE
DESCRIPTION.........................23
OPERATION...........................23
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - REAR
DRIVELINE MODULE NOISE.............24
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - REAR
DRIVELINE MODULE OPERATION........26
REMOVAL.............................26
DISASSEMBLY.........................27
ASSEMBLY............................29
INSTALLATION.........................33
SPECIFICATIONS - REAR DRIVELINE
MODULE............................34
SPECIAL TOOLS.......................34
BI-DIRECTIONAL OVERRUNNING CLUTCH
DESCRIPTION.........................34
OPERATION...........................36
DIFFERENTIAL ASSEMBLY
DESCRIPTION.........................39OPERATION...........................39
FLUID - DIFFERENTIAL ASSEMBLY
STANDARD PROCEDURE - DIFFERENTIAL
ASSEMBLY FLUID CHANGE.............40
FLUID - OVERRUNNING CLUTCH HOUSING
STANDARD PROCEDURE - OVERRUNNING
CLUTCH HOUSING FLUID CHANGE.......41
VISCOUS COUPLER
DESCRIPTION.........................41
OPERATION...........................42
TORQUE ARM
REMOVAL.............................44
INSTALLATION.........................44
INPUT FLANGE SEAL
REMOVAL.............................44
INSTALLATION.........................45
OUTPUT FLANGE SEAL
REMOVAL.............................45
INSTALLATION.........................46
REAR DRIVELINE MODULE
DESCRIPTION
The rear driveline module assembly (Fig. 1) con-
sists of four main components:
²Bi-Directional Overrunning Clutch (BOC)
²Viscous Coupling
²Differential Assembly
²Torque Arm
The viscous coupling and bi-directional overrun-
ning clutch are contained within an overrunning
clutch housing, which fastens to the differential
assembly. The overrunning clutch housing and differ-
ential assembly have unique fluid sumps, each
requiring their own type and capacity of fluid. The
overrunning clutch housing requires MopartATF+4
(Automatic Transmission FluidÐType 9602) or equiv-
alent. The differential assembly requires Mopart
80W-90 Gear and Axle Lubricant.
Driveline module service is limited to the following
components:
²Differential Assembly (serviced only as assem-
bly)
²Viscous Coupling
²Bi-Directional Overrunning Clutch (BOC)
²Overrunning Clutch Housing²Seals (Input Flange, Output Flange, Overrun-
ning Clutch Housing O-rings)
²Input Flange/Shield
²Torque Arm
²Vents
²Fasteners
OPERATION
The primary benefits of All Wheel Drive are:
²Superior straight line acceleration, and corner-
ing on all surfaces
²Better traction and handling under adverse con-
ditions, resulting in improved hill climbing ability
and safer driving.
The heart of the system is an inter-axle viscous
coupling. The vehicle retains predominantly front-
wheel drive characteristics, but the All Wheel Drive
capability takes effect when the front wheels start to
slip. Under normal level road, straight line driving,
100% of the torque is allocated to the front wheels.
The viscous coupling controls and distributes torque/
power to the rear wheels. The viscous coupling trans-
mits torque to the rear wheels in proportion of the
amount of the slippage at the front wheels. Thais
variable torque distribution is automatic with no
driver inputs required. The coupling is similar to a
multi-plate clutch. It consists of a series of closely
spaced discs, which are alternately connected to the
RSREAR DRIVELINE MODULE3-23
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²Engine
²Transmission
²Exhaust
²Propeller shaft (vibration)
²Vehicle body (drumming)
Driveline module noises are normally divided into
two categories: gear noise or bearing noise. A thor-
ough and careful inspection should be completed to
determine the actual source of the noise before
replacing the driveline module.
The rubber mounting bushings help to dampen-out
driveline module noise when properly installed.
Inspect to confirm that no metal contact exists
between the driveline module case and the body. The
complete isolation of noise to one area requires
expertise and experience. Identifying certain types of
vehicle noise baffles even the most capable techni-
cians. Often such practices as:
²Increase tire inflation pressure to eliminate tire
noise.
²Listen for noise at varying speeds with different
driveline load conditions
²Swerving the vehicle from left to right to detect
wheel bearing noise.
All driveline module assemblies produce noise to a
certain extent. Slight carrier noise that is noticeable
only at certain speeds or isolated situations should be
considered normal. Carrier noise tends to peak at a
variety of vehicle speeds. Noise isNOT ALWAYSan
indication of a problem within the carrier.
TIRE NOISE
Tire noise is often mistaken for driveline module
noise. Tires that are unbalanced, worn unevenly or
are worn in a saw-tooth manner are usually noisy.
They often produce a noise that appears to originate
in the driveline module.
Tire noise changes with different road surfaces, but
driveline module noise does not. Inflate all four tires
with approximately 20 psi (138 kPa) more than the
recommended inflation pressure (for test purposes
only). This will alter noise caused by tires, but will
not affect noise caused by the differential. Rear axle
noise usually ceases when coasting at speeds less
than 30 mph (48 km/h); however, tire noise contin-
ues, but at a lower frequency, as the speed is
reduced.
After test has been completed lower tire pressure
back to recommended pressure.
GEAR NOISE (DRIVE PINION AND RING GEAR)
Abnormal gear noise is rare and is usually caused
by scoring on the ring gear and drive pinion. Scoring
is the result of insufficient or incorrect lubricant in
the carrier housing.Abnormal gear noise can be easily recognized. It
produces a cycling tone that will be very pronounced
within a given speed range. The noise can occur dur-
ing one or more of the following drive conditions:
²Drive
²Road load
²Float
²Coast
Abnormal gear noise usually tends to peak within
a narrow vehicle speed range or ranges. It is usually
more pronounced between 30 to 40 mph (48 to 64
km/h) and 50 to 60 mph (80 to 96 km/h). When objec-
tionable gear noise occurs, note the driving condi-
tions and the speed range.
BEARING NOISE (DRIVE PINION AND
DIFFERENTIAL)
Defective bearings produce a rough growl that is
constant in pitch and varies with the speed of vehi-
cle. Being aware of this will enable a technician to
separate bearing noise from gear noise.
Drive pinion bearing noise that results from defec-
tive or damaged bearings can usually be identified by
its constant, rough sound. Drive pinion front bearing
is usually more pronounced during a coast condition.
Drive pinion rear bearing noise is more pronounced
during a drive condition. The drive pinion bearings
are rotating at a higher rate of speed than either the
differential side bearings or the axle shaft bearing.
Differential side bearing noise will usually produce
a constant, rough sound. The sound is much lower in
frequency than the noise caused by drive pinion bear-
ings.
Bearing noise can best be detected by road testing
the vehicle on a smooth road (black top). However, it
is easy to mistake tire noise for bearing noise. If a
doubt exists, the tire treads should be examined for
irregularities that often causes a noise that resem-
bles bearing noise.
ENGINE AND TRANSMISSION NOISE
Sometimes noise that appears to be in the driv-
eline module assembly is actually caused by the
engine or the transmission. To identify the true
source of the noise, note the approximate vehicle
speed and/or RPM when the noise is most noticeable.
Stop the vehicle next to a flat brick or cement wall
(this will help reflect the sound). Place the transaxle
inNEUTRAL. Accelerate the engine slowly up
through the engine speed that matches the vehicle
speed noted when the noise occurred. If the same
noise is produced, it usually indicates that the noise
is being caused by the engine or transaxle.
RSREAR DRIVELINE MODULE3-25
REAR DRIVELINE MODULE (Continued)
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CABLES - PARKING BRAKE
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - PARKING BRAKE CABLE
(FRONT)............................59
REMOVAL - PARKING BRAKE CABLE
(INTERMEDIATE)......................60
REMOVAL - PARKING BRAKE CABLE
(RIGHT REAR)........................60
REMOVAL - PARKING BRAKE CABLE (LEFT
REAR)..............................62
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - PARKING BRAKE CABLE
(FRONT)............................63
INSTALLATION - PARKING BRAKE CABLE
(INTERMEDIATE)......................63
INSTALLATION - PARKING BRAKE CABLE
(RIGHT REAR)........................63
INSTALLATION - PARKING BRAKE CABLE
(LEFT REAR).........................64ADJUSTMENTS
ADJUSTMENT - PARKING BRAKE CABLES . 64
CABLES - PARKING BRAKE (EXPORT)
REMOVAL - FRONT CABLE...............64
INSTALLATION - FRONT CABLE............64
LEVER - PARKING BRAKE
REMOVAL.............................64
INSTALLATION.........................65
LEVER - PARKING BRAKE (EXPORT)
REMOVAL - PARKING BRAKE LEVER AND
FRONT CABLE.......................65
INSTALLATION - PARKING BRAKE LEVER
AND FRONT CABLE...................66
SHOES - PARKING BRAKE
REMOVAL.............................67
INSTALLATION.........................72
ADJUSTMENTS
ADJUSTMENT - PARKING BRAKE SHOES . . 73
BRAKES - BASE
DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTION - BASE BRAKES
The base brake system consists of the following
components:
²Brake pedal
²Power brake booster
²Master cylinder
²Brake tubes and hoses
²Proportioning valve (non-ABS vehicles only)
²Disc brakes
²Drum brakes
²Brake lamp switch
²Brake fluid level switch
²Parking brakes
Front disc brakes control the braking of the front
wheels; rear braking is controlled by rear drum
brakes or rear disc brakes depending on options.
The hydraulic brake system is diagonally split on
both the non-antilock braking systems and antilock
braking systems. That means the left front and right
rear brakes are on one hydraulic circuit and the right
front and left rear are on the other.
For information on the brake lamp switch, (Refer
to 8 - ELECTRICAL/LAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERI-
OR/BRAKE LAMP SWITCH - DESCRIPTION)Vehicles equipped with the optional antilock brake
system (ABS) use a system designated Mark 20e. It
is available with or without traction control. This
system shares most base brake hardware used on
vehicles without ABS. ABS components are described
in detail in ANTILOCK BRAKE SYSTEM.DESCRIPTION - BASE BRAKES (EXPORT)
Four-Wheel Disc Antilock Brakes are standard on
all models.
OPERATION - BASE BRAKES
When a vehicle needs to be stopped, the driver
applies the brake pedal. The brake pedal pushes the
input rod of the power brake booster into the booster.
The booster uses vacuum to ease pedal effort as force
is transferred through the booster to the master cyl-
inder. The booster's output rod pushes in the master
cylinder's primary and secondary pistons applying
hydraulic pressure through the chassis brake tubes
to the brakes at each tire and wheel assembly.
The parking brakes are foot-operated. When
applied, the parking brake lever pulls on cables that
actuate brake shoes at each rear wheel. These shoes
come in contact with a hub mounted drum (drum for
disc/drum brakes or drum-in-hat for disc/disc brakes)
and hold it in place.
RSBRAKES - BASE5-3
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