
Scanning the Terrain
Off-road driving can take you over many different kinds of
terrain. You need to be familiar with the terrain and its
many different features. Here are some things to
consider.
Surface Conditions:Off-roading can take you over
hard-packed dirt, gravel, rocks, grass, sand, mud, snow
or ice. Each of these surfaces affects the steering,
acceleration and braking of your vehicle in different
ways. Depending upon the kind of surface you are on,
you may experience slipping, sliding, wheel spinning,
delayed acceleration, poor traction and longer braking
distances.
Surface Obstacles:Unseen or hidden obstacles can
be hazardous. A rock, log, hole, rut or bump can startle
you if you're not prepared for them. Often these
obstacles are hidden by grass, bushes, snow or even
the rise and fall of the terrain itself. Here are some
things to consider:
·Is the path ahead clear?
·Will the surface texture change abruptly up ahead?
·Does the travel take you uphill or downhill?
(There's more discussion of these subjects later.)
·Will you have to stop suddenly or change direction
quickly?When you drive over obstacles or rough terrain, keep a
®rm grip on the steering wheel. Ruts, troughs or
other surface features can jerk the wheel out of your
hands if you're not prepared.
When you drive over bumps, rocks, or other obstacles,
your wheels can leave the ground. If this happens,
even with one or two wheels, you can't control
the vehicle as well or at all.
Because you will be on an unpaved surface, it's
especially important to avoid sudden acceleration,
sudden turns or sudden braking.
In a way, off-road driving requires a different kind of
alertness from driving on paved roads and highways.
There are no road signs, posted speed limits or
signal lights. You have to use our own good judgment
about what is safe and what isn't.
Drinking and driving can be very dangerous on any
road. And this is certainly true for off-road driving.
At the very time you need special alertness and driving
skills, your re¯exes, perceptions and judgment can
be affected by even a small amount of alcohol.
You could have a serious Ð or even fatal Ð accident if
you drink and drive or ride with a driver who has
been drinking. See
Drunken Driving on page 4-4.
4-19

Driving Uphill
Once you decide you can safely drive up the hill,
you need to take some special steps.
·Use a low gear and get a ®rm grip on the steering
wheel.
·Get a smooth start up the hill and try to maintain
your speed. Don't use more power than you
need, because you don't want your wheels to start
spinning or sliding.
·Try to drive straight up the hill if at all possible.
If the path twists and turns, you might want to
®nd another route.
{CAUTION:
Turning or driving across steep hills can be
dangerous. You could lose traction, slide
sideways, and possibly roll over. You could be
seriously injured or killed. When driving up
hills, always try to go straight up.
·Ease up on your speed as you approach the top
of the hill.
·Attach a ¯ag to the vehicle to make you more
visible to approaching traffic on trails or hills.
·Sound the horn as you approach the top of the hill
to let opposing traffic know you're there.
·Use your headlamps even during the day.
They make you more visible to oncoming traffic.
{CAUTION:
Driving to the top (crest) of a hill at full speed
can cause an accident. There could be a
drop-off, embankment, cliff, or even another
vehicle. You could be seriously injured or
killed. As you near the top of a hill, slow down
and stay alert.
4-21

Q:What should I do if my vehicle stalls, or is
about to stall, and I can't make it up the hill?
A:If this happens, there are some things you should
do, and there are some things you must not do.
First here's what you
shoulddo:
·Push the brake pedal to stop the vehicle and keep it
from rolling backwards. Also, apply the parking brake.
·If your engine is still running, shift the transmission to
REVERSE (R), release the parking brake, and slowly
back down the hill in REVERSE (R)
·If your engine has stopped running, you'll need to
restart it. With the brake pedal pressed and the
parking brake still applied, shift the transmission to
PARK (P) (or, shift to neutral if your vehicle has a
manual transmission) and restart the engine.
Then, shift to REVERSE (R), release the parking
brake, and slowly back down the ®ll as straight as
possible in REVERSE (R).
·As you are backing down the hill, put your left hand
on the steering wheel at the 12 o'clock position.
This way, you'll be able to tell if your wheels are
straight and maneuver as you back down.
It's best that you back down the hill with your wheels
straight rather than in the left or right direction.
Turning the wheel too far to the left or right will
increase the possibility of a rollover.Here are some things you
must notdo if you stall, or
are about to stall, when going up a hill.
·Never attempt to prevent a stall by shifting into
NEUTRAL (N) (or pressing the clutch, if you have a
manual transmission) to ªrev-upº the engine and
regain forward momentum. This won't work.
Your vehicle will roll backwards very quickly and
you could go out of control.
Instead, apply the regular brake to stop the vehicle.
Then apply the parking brake. Shift to
REVERSE (R), release the parking brake, and slowly
back straight down.
·Never attempt to turn around if you are about to stall
when going up a hill. If the hill is steep enough to stall
your vehicle, it's steep enough to cause you to roll
over if you turn around. If you can't make it up the hill,
you must back straight down the hill.
4-22

Driving in Mud, Sand, Snow or Ice
When you drive in mud, snow or sand, your wheels
won't get good traction. You can't accelerate as quickly,
turning is more difficult, and you'll need longer braking
distances.
It's best to use a low gear when you're in mud Ð the
deeper the mud, the lower the gear. In really deep mud,
the idea is to keep your vehicle moving so you don't
get stuck.
When you drive on sand, you'll sense a change in
wheel traction. But it will depend upon how loosely
packed the sand is. On loosely packed sand (as on
beaches or sand dunes) your tires will tend to sink into
the sand. This has an effect on steering, accelerating
and braking. Drive at a reduced speed and avoid sharp
turns or abrupt maneuvers.Hard packed snow and ice offer the worst tire traction.
On these surfaces, it's very easy to lose control.
On wet ice, for example, the traction is so poor that
you will have difficulty accelerating. And if you do get
moving, poor steering and difficult braking can cause
you to slide out of control.
{CAUTION:
Driving on frozen lakes, ponds or rivers can be
dangerous. Underwater springs, currents
under the ice, or sudden thaws can weaken
the ice. Your vehicle could fall through the ice
and you and your passengers could drown.
Drive your vehicle on safe surfaces only.
4-28

After Off-Road Driving
Remove any brush or debris that has collected
on the underbody, chassis or under the hood.
These accumulations can be a ®re hazard.
After operation in mud or sand, have the brake linings
cleaned and checked. These substances can cause
glazing and uneven braking. Check the body structure,
steering, suspension, wheels, tires and exhaust
system for damage. Also, check the fuel lines and
cooling system for any leakage.
Your vehicle will require more frequent service due to
off-road use. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule
for additional information.
Driving at Night
Night driving is more dangerous than day driving.
One reason is that some drivers are likely to be
impaired Ð by alcohol or drugs, with night vision
problems, or by fatigue.
4-30

What's the worst time for this? ªWet ice.º Very cold snow
or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet ice can
be even more trouble because it may offer the least
traction of all. You can get wet ice when it's about
freezing (32ÉF; 0ÉC) and freezing rain begins to fall.
Try to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand crews
can get there.
Whatever the condition ± smooth ice, packed, blowing
or loose snow ± drive with caution.
Accelerate gently. Try not to break the fragile traction.
If you accelerate too fast, the drive wheels will spin and
polish the surface under the tires even more.Unless you have the anti-lock braking system, you'll
want to brake very gently, too. If you do have anti-lock,
see
Braking on page 4-7. This system improves your
vehicle's stability when you make a hard stop on a
slippery road. Whether you have the anti-lock braking
system or not, you'll want to begin stopping sooner than
you would on dry pavement. Without anti-lock brakes,
if you feel your vehicle begin to slide, let up on the
brakes a little. Push the brake pedal down steadily to
get the most traction you can.
Remember,unless you have anti-lock, if you brake so
hard that your wheels stop rolling, you'll just slide. Brake
so your wheels always keep rolling and you can still steer.
·Whatever your braking system, allow greater
following distance on any slippery road.
·Watch for slippery spots. The road might be ®ne
until you hit a spot that's covered with ice. On an
otherwise clear road, ice patches may appear in
shaded areas where the sun can't reach: around
clumps of trees, behind buildings or under bridges.
Sometimes the surface of a curve or an overpass
may remain icy when the surrounding roads are
clear. If you see a patch of ice ahead of you, brake
before you are on it. Try not to brake while you're
actually on the ice, and avoid sudden steering
maneuvers.
4-41

Rocking Your Vehicle To Get It Out
First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That will
clear the area around your front wheels. If you have the
four-speed automatic, see ªPower Mode Selector
Switchº under
Automatic Transmission Operation on
page 2-19for information on traction. If you have
a four-wheel-drive vehicle, shift into 4HI. Then shift back
and forth between REVERSE (R) and a forward gear
(or with a manual transmission, between FIRST (1)
or SECOND (2) and REVERSE (R)), spinning the
wheels as little as possible. Release the accelerator
pedal while you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator
pedal when the transmission is in gear. By slowly
spinning your wheels in the forward and reverse
directions, you will cause a rocking motion that may free
your vehicle. If that doesn't get you out after a few
tries, you may need to be towed out. Or, you can use
your recovery hooks. If you do need to be towed
out, see
Towing Your Vehicle on page 4-47.
Using the Recovery Hooks
Your vehicle is equipped with recovery hooks.
The hooks are provided at the front and rear of your
vehicle. You may need to use them if you're stuck
off-road and need to be pulled to some place where
you can continue driving.
4-45

Stop towing every 200 miles (300 km) and start the
engine. Leave the transfer case shift lever in NEUTRAL.
Shift your automatic transmission to DRIVE (D);
leave a manual transmission in SECOND (2) with the
clutch engaged. Run the engine at 2,000 rpm for
one minute to circulate oil in the transfer case. Turn the
ignition key to ACC. Now, you can continue towing
your vehicle.
Notice:Locking the steering column when towing
your vehicle may damage the steering column.
Always unlock the steering column before towing.
Notice:If you exceed 55 mph (90 km/h) while
towing your vehicle, it could be damaged. Never
exceed 55 mph (90 km/h) while towing your vehicle.
{CAUTION:
Shifting a four-wheel-drive vehicle's transfer
case into NEUTRAL can cause your vehicle to
roll even if the transmission is in Park (P) for
an automatic transmission, or if your vehicle is
in gear, for a manual transmission. You or
others could be injured. Make sure the parking
brake is ®rmly set before you shift the transfer
case to NEUTRAL.
4-49