2003 CHEVROLET S10 tow

1. Flip the handle up and then pull out the dipstick
and wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel.
2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and
then pull it back out again.
3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the lower
level. The ¯uid level must be in the COLD area,
below the cross-hatched area, for a cold check or in
the HOT area or cross-hatched area for a hot
check.
4. If the ¯uid level is in the acceptable range, push the
dipstick back in all the way; then ¯ip the handle
down to lock the dipstick in place.How to Add Fluid
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what
kind of transmission ¯uid to use. SeePart D:
Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-33.
Add ¯uid only after checking the transmission ¯uid while
it is hot. (A cold check is used only as a reference.) If
the ¯uid level is low, add only enough of the proper ¯uid
to bring the level up to the HOT area for a hot check.
It doesn't take much ¯uid, generally less than one pint
(0.5 L). Don't over®ll.
Notice:We recommend you use only ¯uid labeled
DEXRONž-III, because ¯uid with that label is
made especially for your automatic transmission.
Damage caused by ¯uid other than DEXRON
ž-III is
not covered by your new vehicle warranty.
·After adding ¯uid, recheck the ¯uid level as
described under
ªHow to Checkºearlier.
·When the correct ¯uid level is obtained, push the
dipstick back in all the way; then ¯ip the handle
down to lock the dipstick in place.
5-24

If No Steam Is Coming From Your
Engine
If you get an engine overheat warning but see or hear
no steam, the problem may not be too serious.
Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you:
·Climb a long hill on a hot day.
·Stop after high-speed driving.
·Idle for long periods in traffic.
·Tow a trailer. See ªDriving on Gradesº under
Towing a Trailer on page 4-54.
If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam,
try this for a minute or so:
1. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in NEUTRAL
while stopped. If it is safe to do so, pull off the
road, shift to PARK (P) or NEUTRAL and let the
engine idle.
2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan
speed and open the window as necessary.If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can
drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes.
If the warning doesn't come back on, you can drive
normally.
If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park your
vehicle right away.
If there's still no sign of steam, idle the engine for three
minutes while you're parked. Push down the accelerator
until the engine speed is about twice as fast as normal
idle speed for at least three minutes while you're parked.
If you still have the warning,
turn off the engine and get
everyone out of the vehicleuntil it cools down.
You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service
help right away.
5-31

Engine Fan Noise
This vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When the
clutch is engaged, the fan spins faster to provide more air
to cool the engine. In most everyday driving conditions,
the clutch is not engaged. This improves fuel economy
and reduces fan noise. Under heavy vehicle loading,
trailer towing and/or high outside temperatures, the fan
speed increases when the clutch engages. So you may
hear an increase in fan noise. This is normal and should
not be mistaken as the transmission slipping or making
extra shifts. It is merely the cooling system functioning
properly. The fan will slow down when additional cooling
is not required and the clutch disengages.
You may also hear this fan noise when you start the
engine. It will go away as the fan clutch disengages.
Power Steering Fluid
The power steering reservoir is located near the front of
the engine compartment on the driver's side of the
vehicle.
5-39

{CAUTION:
Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to
which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts
become loose after a time. The wheel could
come off and cause an accident. When you
change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from
places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle.
In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a
paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a
scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to
get all the rust or dirt off. See ªChanging a Flat
Tireº in the Index.
When It Is Time for New Tires
One way to tell when it's
time for new tires is to
check the treadwear
indicators, which will
appear when your tires
have only 1/16 inch
(1.6 mm) or less of tread
remaining. Some
commercial truck tires may
not have treadwear
indicators.
You need a new tire if any of the following statements
are true:
·You can see the indicators at three or more places
around the tire.
·You can see cord or fabric showing through the
tire's rubber.
·The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut or snagged
deep enough to show cord or fabric.
·The tire has a bump, bulge or split.
·The tire has a puncture, cut or other damage that
can't be repaired well because of the size or
location of the damage.
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Notice:If your vehicle has a tire size other than
P235/75R15, P235/70R15, P235/55R16 or
31x10.50R15LT/C, use tire chains only where legal
and only when you must. Use only SAE Class²S²
type chains that are the proper size for your tires.
Install them on the drive axle tires (four-wheel-drive
vehicles can use chains on both axles) and tighten
them as tightly as possible with the ends securely
fastened. Drive slowly and follow the chain
manufacturer's instructions. If you can hear the
chains contacting your vehicle, stop and retighten
them. If the contact continues, slow down until it
stops. Driving too fast or spinning the wheels with
chains on will damage your vehicle.
If a Tire Goes Flat
It's unusual for a tire to ªblowoutº while you're driving,
especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes
out of a tire, it's much more likely to leak out slowly.
But if you should ever have a ªblowout,º here are a few
tips about what to expect and what to do:
If a front tire fails, the ¯at tire will create a drag that
pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the
accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel ®rmly.
Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to
a stop well out of the traffic lane.A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a
skid and may require the same correction you'd use
in a skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from the
accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by
steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be
very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently
brake to a stop, well off the road if possible.
{CAUTION:
Lifting a vehicle and getting under it to do
maintenance or repairs is dangerous without
the appropriate safety equipment and training.
The jack provided with your vehicle is
designed only for changing a ¯at tire. If it is
used for anything else, you or others could be
badly injured or killed if the vehicle slips off
the jack. Use the jack provided with your
vehicle only for changing a ¯at tire.
If a tire goes ¯at, the next part shows how to use your
jacking equipment to change a ¯at tire safely.
5-71

Removing the Spare Tire and Tools
The jacking equipment you'll need is stored inside the
plastic jack cover which is behind the front seats, either
on the center of the wall (extended cab) or on the
passenger's side of the wall (regular cab).
The jacking equipment for the crew cab is located
behind the rear seatback on the passenger's side of the
vehicle.
1. To remove it, turn the plastic wing nut
counterclockwise. Remove the jack cover.
2. Turn the wing nut counterclockwise and remove the
wheel blocks, jack and wheel wrench.
Notice:Never remove or restow a tire from/to a
stowage position under the vehicle while the vehicle
is supported by a jack. Always tighten the tire
fully against the underside of the vehicle when
restowing.
3. Insert the chisel end of
the wheel wrench, on
an angle, into the
hole in the rear
bumper.
Be sure the chisel end of the wheel wrench
connects into the hoist shaft.
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4. Turn the wheel wrench counterclockwise to lower
the spare tire. Keep turning the wheel wrench until
the spare tire can be pulled out from under the
vehicle.
5. When the tire has been completely lowered, tilt the
retainer at the end of the cable and pull it through
the wheel opening.
6. Pull the tire out from under the vehicle.
If your vehicle is equipped with a compact spare
tire, it is stowed underneath the rear of your vehicle.
See
Compact Spare Tire on page 5-83for more
information about the compact spare.
Notice:To help avoid vehicle damage, do not drive
the vehicle before the cable is restowed.
7. Put the spare tire near the ¯at tire.The tools you'll be using include the jack (A) and wheel
wrench (B). Your vehicle may also have an optional
hub cap removal tool.
5-74

6. Remove any rust or dirt
from the wheel bolts,
mounting surfaces
and spare wheel.
{CAUTION:
Rust or dirt on the wheel, or on the parts to
which it is fastened, can make the wheel nuts
become loose after a time. The wheel could
come off and cause an accident. When you
change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from
the places where the wheel attaches to the
vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth
or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use
a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to
get all the rust or dirt off.
{CAUTION:
Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts. If
you do, the nuts might come loose. Your wheel
could fall off, causing a serious accident.
7. Place the spare on the wheel mounting surface.
8. Put the nuts on by
hand. Make sure the
cone-shaped end
is toward the wheel.
Tighten each nut by hand until the wheel is held
against the hub. If a nut can't be turned by
hand, use the wheel wrench and see your dealer
as soon as possible.
5-78