
After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and
rear in¯ation pressures as shown on the
Certi®cation/Tire label. Make certain that all wheel nuts
are properly tightened. See ªWheel Nut Torqueº
under
Capacities and Speci®cations on page 5-91.
{CAUTION:
Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to
which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts
become loose after a time. The wheel could
come off and cause an accident. When you
change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from
places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle.
In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a
paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a
scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to
get all the rust or dirt off. See ªChanging a Flat
Tireº in the Index.
When It Is Time for New Tires
One way to tell when it's
time for new tires is to
check the treadwear
indicators, which will
appear when your tires
have only 1/16 inch
(1.6 mm) or less of tread
remaining. Some
commercial truck tires may
not have treadwear
indicators.
You need a new tire if any of the following statements
are true:
·You can see the indicators at three or more places
around the tire.
·You can see cord or fabric showing through the
tire's rubber.
·The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut or snagged
deep enough to show cord or fabric.
·The tire has a bump, bulge or split.
·The tire has a puncture, cut or other damage that
can't be repaired well because of the size or
location of the damage.
5-57

Tire Chains
{CAUTION:
Don't use tire chains. There's not enough
clearance. Tire chains used on a vehicle
without the proper amount of clearance can
cause damage to the brakes, suspension or
other vehicle parts. The area damaged by the
tire chains could cause you to lose control of
your vehicle and you or others may be injured
in a crash. Use another type of traction device
only if its manufacturer recommends it for use
on your vehicle and tire size combination and
road conditions. Follow that manufacturer's
instructions. To help avoid damage to your
vehicle, drive slowly, readjust or remove the
device if it's contacting your vehicle, and don't
spin your wheels. If you do ®nd traction
devices that will ®t, install them on the
rear tires.
If a Tire Goes Flat
It's unusual for a tire to ªblowoutº while you're driving,
especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes
out of a tire, it's much more likely to leak out slowly.
But if you should ever have a ªblowout,º here are a few
tips about what to expect and what to do:
If a front tire fails, the ¯at tire will create a drag that
pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the
accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel ®rmly.
Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to
a stop well out of the traffic lane.
A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a
skid and may require the same correction you'd use
in a skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from the
accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by
steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be
very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently
brake to a stop, well off the road if possible.
If a tire goes ¯at, the next part shows how to use your
jacking equipment to change a ¯at tire safely.
5-62

The following instructions explain how to remove the
spare tire, depending on where it is mounted on
your vehicle. See
Compact Spare Tire on page 5-75orSpare Tire on page 5-76for more information about
the spare.
1. To remove your jack
cover, pull up on the
latch(es) on the
cover. Remove the
wheel blocks, jack and
wheel wrench.
Notice:Never remove or restow a tire from/to a
stowage position under the vehicle while the vehicle
is supported by a jack. Always tighten the tire
fully against the underside of the vehicle when
restowing.2. To remove the
underbody-mounted
spare, insert the chisel
end of the wheel
wrench, on an angle,
into the hoist shaft hole
in the rear bumper.
Be sure the chisel end
of the wheel wrench
connects into the hoist
shaft.
3. Turn the wheel wrench counterclockwise to lower
the spare tire. Keep turning the wheel wrench until
the spare tire has been completely lowered. Tilt
the retainer at the end of the cable and pull it
through the wheel opening. Pull the tire out from
under the vehicle.
Notice:To help avoid vehicle damage, do not drive
the vehicle before the cable is restowed.
If you have an inside-mounted spare tire, the tire must
be removed in order to have access to the jack
storage.
5-64

6. Remove any rust or dirt
from the wheel bolts,
mounting surfaces
and spare wheel.
{CAUTION:
Rust or dirt on the wheel, or on the parts to
which it is fastened, can make the wheel nuts
become loose after a time. The wheel could
come off and cause an accident. When you
change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from
the places where the wheel attaches to the
vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth
or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use
a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to
get all the rust or dirt off.
{CAUTION:
Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts. If
you do, the nuts might come loose. Your wheel
could fall off, causing a serious accident.
7. Place the spare on the wheel mounting surface.
8. Put the nuts on by
hand. Make sure the
rounded end is
toward the wheel.
Tighten each nut by hand until the wheel is held
against the hub. If a nut can't be turned by
hand, use the wheel wrench and see your dealer
as soon as possible.
5-70

Weatherstrips
Silicone grease on weatherstrips will make them last
longer, seal better, and not stick or squeak. Apply
silicone grease with a clean cloth at least every six
months. During very cold, damp weather more frequent
application may be required. See
Part D: Recommended
Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-33.
Cleaning the Outside of Your
Vehicle
The paint ®nish on your vehicle provides beauty, depth
of color, gloss retention and durability.
Washing Your Vehicle
The best way to preserve your vehicle's ®nish is to keep
it clean by washing it often with lukewarm or cold
water.
Don't wash your vehicle in the direct rays of the sun.
Use a car washing soap. Don't use strong soaps
or chemical detergents. Be sure to rinse the vehicle
well, removing all soap residue completely. You can get
GM-approved cleaning products from your dealer.
See
Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials on page 5-82.
Don't use cleaning agents that are petroleum based,
or that contain acid or abrasives. All cleaning agents
should be ¯ushed promptly and not allowed to dry on thesurface, or they could stain. Dry the ®nish with a soft,
clean chamois or an all-cotton towel to avoid surface
scratches and water spotting.
High pressure car washes may cause water to enter
your vehicle.
Cleaning Exterior Lamps/Lenses
Use only lukewarm or cold water, a soft cloth and a car
washing soap to clean exterior lamps and lenses.
Follow instructions under ªWashing Your Vehicle.º
Finish Care
Occasional waxing or mild polishing of your vehicle by
hand may be necessary to remove residue from the
paint ®nish. You can get GM-approved cleaning products
from your dealer. See
Vehicle Care/Appearance
Materials on page 5-82.
If your vehicle has a ªbasecoat/clearcoatº paint ®nish.
The clearcoat gives more depth and gloss to the colored
basecoat. Always use waxes and polishes that are
non-abrasive and made for a basecoat/clearcoat paint
®nish.
Notice:Machine compounding or aggressive
polishing on a basecoat/clearcoat paint ®nish may
dull the ®nish or leave swirl marks.
5-79

Foreign materials such as calcium chloride and other
salts, ice melting agents, road oil and tar, tree sap, bird
droppings, chemicals from industrial chimneys, etc.,
can damage your vehicle's ®nish if they remain
on painted surfaces. Wash the vehicle as soon as
possible. If necessary, use non-abrasive cleaners that
are marked safe for painted surfaces to remove
foreign matter.
Exterior painted surfaces are subject to aging, weather
and chemical fallout that can take their toll over a
period of years. You can help to keep the paint ®nish
looking new by keeping your vehicle garaged or covered
whenever possible.
Protecting Exterior Bright Metal Parts
Bright metal parts should be cleaned regularly to keep
their luster. Washing with water is all that is usually
needed. However, you may use chrome polish on
chrome or stainless steel trim, if necessary.
Use special care with aluminum trim. To avoid damaging
protective trim, never use auto or chrome polish,
steam or caustic soap to clean aluminum. A coating of
wax, rubbed to high polish, is recommended for all
bright metal parts.
Cleaning the Windshield, Backglass
and Wiper Blades
If the windshield is not clear after using the windshield
washer, or if the wiper blade chatters when running,
wax, sap or other material may be on the blade or
windshield.
Clean the outside of the windshield with a full-strength
glass cleaning liquid. The windshield is clean if beads do
not form when you rinse it with water.
Grime from the windshield will stick to the wiper blades
and affect their performance. Clean the blade by
wiping vigorously with a cloth soaked in full-strength
windshield washer solvent. Then rinse the blade
with water.
Check the wiper blades and clean them as necessary;
replace blades that look worn.
Cleaning Aluminum Wheels
Keep your wheels clean using a soft clean cloth with
mild soap and water. Rinse with clean water. After
rinsing thoroughly, dry with a soft clean towel. A wax
may then be applied.
5-80

Selecting the Right Schedule
First you'll need to decide which of the two schedules is
right for your vehicle. Here's how to decide which
schedule to follow:
Short Trip/City De®nition
Follow the Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance if any
one of these conditions is true for your vehicle:
·Most trips are less than 5 miles (8 km). This is
particularly important when outside temperatures
are below freezing.
·Most trips include extensive idling (such as frequent
driving in stop-and-go traffic).
·You frequently tow a trailer or use a carrier on top
of your vehicle.
·If the vehicle is used for delivery service, police,
taxi or other commercial application.
One of the reasons you should follow this schedule if
you operate your vehicle under any of these conditions
is that these conditions cause engine oil to break
down sooner.
Short Trip/City Intervals
Every 3,000 Miles (5 000 km):Engine Oil and Filter
Change (or 3 months, whichever occurs ®rst). Chassis
Lubrication (or 3 months, whichever occurs ®rst).
Drive Axle Service.
Every 6,000 Miles (10 000 km):Tire Rotation.
Every 15,000 Miles (25 000 km):Engine Air Cleaner
Filter Inspection. Automatic Transmission Service
(severe conditions only).
Every 30,000 Miles (50 000 km):Engine Air Cleaner
Filter Replacement. Fuel Filter Replacement.
Every 50,000 Miles (83 000 km):Automatic
Transmission Service (normal conditions). Automatic
Transfer Case Only: Transfer Case Fluid Change.
Every 100,000 Miles (166 000 km):Spark Plug Wire
Inspection. Spark Plug Replacement. Positive
Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) Valve Inspection.
Every 150 000 Miles (240 000 km):Cooling System
Service (or every 60 months, whichever occurs
®rst). Engine Accessory Drive Belt Inspection.
These intervals only summarize maintenance services.
Be sure to follow the complete scheduled maintenance
on the following pages.
6-5

Long Trip/Highway De®nition
Follow this scheduled maintenanceonlyif none of the
conditions from the Short Trip/City Scheduled
Maintenance are true. Do not use this schedule if the
vehicle is used for trailer towing, driven in a dusty area
or used off paved roads. Use the Short Trip/City
schedule for these conditions.
Driving a vehicle with a fully warmed engine under
highway conditions will cause engine oil to break down
slower.
Long Trip/Highway Intervals
Every 7,500 Miles (12 500 km):Engine Oil and Filter
Change (or every 12 months, whichever occurs
®rst). Chassis Lubrication (or 12 months, whichever
occurs ®rst). Drive Axle Service. Tire Rotation.
Every 15,000 Miles (25 000 km):Engine Air Cleaner
Filter Inspection. Automatic Transmission Service
(severe conditions only).
Every 30,000 Miles (50 000 km):Fuel Filter
Replacement. Engine Air Cleaner Filter Replacement.
Every 50,000 Miles (83 000 km):Automatic
Transmission Service (normal conditions). Automatic
Transfer Case Only: Transfer Case Fluid Change.Every 100,000 Miles (166 000 km):Spark Plug Wire
Inspection. Spark Plug Replacement. Positive
Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) Valve Inspection.
Every 150,000 Miles (240 000 km):Cooling System
Service (or every 60 months, whichever occurs
®rst). Engine Accessory Drive Belt Inspection.
These intervals only summarize maintenance services.
Be sure to follow the complete scheduled maintenance
on the following pages.
Short Trip/City Scheduled
Maintenance
The services shown in this schedule up to 100,000 miles
(166 000 km) should be repeated after 100,000 miles
(166 000 km) at the same intervals for the life of
this vehicle. The services shown at 150,000 miles
(240 000 km) should be repeated at the same interval
after 150,000 miles (240 000 km) for the life of this
vehicle.
See
Part B: Owner Checks and Services on page 6-26andPart C: Periodic MaintenanceInspections on
page 6-31.
6-6