Avoid excessive speed because vehicle momentum can work against you
and cause the vehicle to become stuck to the point that assistance may
be required from another vehicle. Remember, you may be able to back
out the way you came if you proceed with caution.
Mud and water
NOTE:
²If you must drive through high
water, drive slowly. Traction or
brake capability may be limited.
²When driving through water,
determine the depth; avoid water
higher than the bottom of the hubs (if possible) and proceed slowly. If
the ignition system gets wet, the vehicle may stall.
²Once through water, always try the brakes. Wet brakes do not stop the
vehicle as effectively as dry brakes. Drying can be improved by moving
your vehicle slowly while applying light pressure on the brake pedal.
Be cautious of sudden changes in vehicle speed or direction when you
are driving in mud. Even 4x4 vehicles can lose traction in slick mud. As
when you are driving over sand, apply the accelerator slowly and avoid
spinning your wheels. If the vehicle does slide, steer in the direction of
the slide until you regain control of the vehicle.
After driving through mud, clean off residue stuck to rotating
driveshafts, halfshafts and tires. Excess mud on tires and rotating
driveshafts causes an imbalance that could damage drive
components.
NOTE:
If the transaxle Power Take Off unit or rear axle are submerged in water,
their fluids should be checked and changed, if necessary.
Driving through deep water may damage the transmission.
If the rear axle is submerged in water, the axle lubricant should be
checked and changed, if necessary. The rear axle is filled with a lubricant
that does not normally require a lubricant change for the life of the
vehicle. Rear axle lubricant quantities should not need to be checked
unless a leak is suspected.
Driving
152
DRIVING THROUGH WATER
Do not drive quickly through standing water, especially if the
depth is unknown. Traction or brake capability may be limited
and if the ignition system gets wet, your engine may stall. Water
may also enter your engine's air intake and severely damage your
engine.
If driving through deep or standing water is unavoidable, proceed very
slowly. Never drive through water that is higher than the bottom of the
hubs (for trucks) or the bottom of the wheel rims (for cars).
Once through the water, always try the brakes. Wet brakes do not stop
the vehicle as effectively as dry brakes. Drying can be improved by
moving your vehicle slowly while applying light pressure on the brake
pedal.
Driving through deep water where the transmission vent tube is
submerged may allow water into the transmission and cause
internal transmission damage. Have the fluid checked and, if
water is found, replace the fluid.
VEHICLE LOADING
Before loading a vehicle, familiarize yourself with the following terms:
²Base Curb Weight:Weight of the vehicle including any standard
equipment, fluids, lubricants, etc. It does not include occupants or
aftermarket equipment.
²Payload:Combined maximum allowable weight of cargo, occupants
and optional equipment. The payload equals the gross vehicle weight
rating minus base curb weight.
²GVW (Gross Vehicle Weight):Base curb weight plus payload
weight. The GVW is not a limit or a specification.
²GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating):Maximum permissible total
weight of the base vehicle, occupants, optional equipment and cargo.
The GVWR is specific to each vehicle and is listed on the Safety
Certification Label on the driver's door pillar.
²GAWR (Gross Axle Weight Rating):Carrying capacity for each axle
system. The GAWR is specific to each vehicle and is listed on the
Safety Certification Label on the driver's door pillar.
²GCW (Gross Combined Weight):The combined weight of the
towing vehicle (including occupants and cargo) and the loaded trailer.
²GCWR (Gross Combined Weight Rating):Maximum permissible
combined weight of towing vehicle (including occupants and cargo)
and the loaded trailer.
Driving
157
HAZARD FLASHER CONTROL
Use only in an emergency to warn traffic of vehicle breakdown,
approaching danger, etc. The hazard flashers can be operated when the
ignition is off.
²The hazard lights control is
located on the instrument panel
by the radio.
²Depress hazard lights control to
activate all hazard flashers simultaneously.
²Depress control again to turn the flashers off.
FUEL PUMP SHUT-OFF SWITCH
FUEL
RESET
The fuel pump shut-off switch is a device intended to stop the electric
fuel pump when your vehicle has been involved in a substantial jolt.
After a collision, if the engine cranks but does not start, the fuel pump
shut-off switch may have been activated.
The fuel pump shut-off switch is
located in the front passenger's foot
well, behind the kick panel. The
reset button for the fuel pump
shut-off switch is accessible through
an opening in the kick panel when
the access cover is removed.
Use the following procedure to reset the fuel pump shut-off switch.
1. Turn the ignition to the LOCK/OFF position.
Roadside Emergencies
167
2. Check the fuel system for leaks.
3. If no fuel leak is apparent, reset the fuel pump shut-off switch by
pushing in on the reset button.
4. Turn the ignition to the ON position. Pause for a few seconds and
return the key to the LOCK/OFF position.
5. Make a further check for leaks in the fuel system.
FUSES AND RELAYS
Fuses
If electrical components in the
vehicle are not working, a fuse may
have blown. Blown fuses are
identified by a broken wire within
the fuse. Check the appropriate
fuses before replacing any electrical
components.
Note:Always replace a fuse with one that has the specified amperage
rating. Using a fuse with a higher amperage rating can cause severe wire
damage and could start a fire.
Standard fuse amperage rating and color
COLOR
Fuse
ratingMini
fusesStandard
fusesMaxi
fusesCartridge
maxi
fusesFuse link
cartridge
2A Grey Grey Ð Ð Ð
3A Violet Violet Ð Ð Ð
4A Pink Pink Ð Ð Ð
5A Tan Tan Ð Ð Ð
7.5A Brown Brown Ð Ð Ð
10A Red Red Ð Ð Ð
15A Blue Blue Ð Ð Ð
20A Yellow Yellow Yellow Blue Blue
25A Natural Natural Ð Ð Ð
30A Green Green Green Pink Pink
15
Roadside Emergencies
168
SCHEDULE 1
I: Inspect and repair, clean, adjust, or replace if necessary
(Oil-permeated air filter cannot be cleaned using the air-blow method)
R: Replace
L: Lubricate
Maintenance ItemMaintenance Interval (Number of months or km (miles),
whichever comes first)
Months 6 12 18 24 30 36 42 48 54 60 66 72
x 1000 Km 12 24 36 48 60 72 84 96 108 120 132 144
(x 1000 Miles) (7.5) (15) (22.5) (30) (37.5) (45) (52.5) (60) (67.5) (75) (82.5) (95)
ENGINE
Engine valve clearance (for
2.0L engine)I
Engine timing belt (for 2.0L
engine)Replace every 144,000 km (90,000 miles)
Engine oilRRRRRRRRRRR R
Oil filterRRRRRRRRRRR R
Drive belts I I I
PCV valve (for
2.0L engine)*1 Replace every 96,000 km (60,000 miles
PCV valve (for
3.0L engine)*1 Replace every 160,000 km (100,000 miles)
Hoses and tubes
for emission*1 I
IGNITION SYSTEM
Spark plugs
(PLATINUM-TIPPED type)Replace every 160,000 km (100,000 miles)
FUEL SYSTEM
Air cleaner filter R R R
Fuel filter *1 R R R
Fuel lines and
hoses*1 I I I
COOLING SYSTEM
Cooling system I I I
Maintenance and Specifications
204
SCHEDULE 2
I: Inspect and repair, clean, adjust, or replace if necessary
(Oil-permeated air filter cannot be cleaned using the air-blow method)
R: Replace
L: Lubricate
Maintenance ItemMaintenance Interval (Number of months or km (miles),
whichever comes first)
Months 4 8 12 16 20 24 28 32 36 40 44 48
x 1000 Km 8 16 24 32 40 48 56 64 72 80 88 96
(x 1000 Miles) (5) (10) (15) (20) (25) (30) (35) (40) (45) (50) (55) (60)
ENGINE
Engine valve clearance (for 2.0L
engine)I
Engine timing belt (for 2.0L engine) Replace every 144,000 km (90,000 miles)
Engine oil RRRRRRRRRRR R
Engine oil (for Puerto Rico) Replace every 4,800 km (3,000 miles) (or 3 months)
Oil filter RRRRRRRRRRR R
Drive belts I I
PCV valve (for 2.0L
engine)*1 Replace every 96,000 km (60,000 miles)
PCV valve (for 3.0L
engine)*1 Replace every 160,000 km (100,000 miles)
Hoses and tubes for
emission*1 I
IGNITION SYSTEM
Spark plugs (PLATINUM TIPPED
type)Replace every 160,000 km (100,000 miles)
FUEL SYSTEM
Air cleaner filter I R I R
Fuel filter *1 R R
Fuel lines & hoses *1 I I
COOLING SYSTEM
Cooling system I I
Maintenance and Specifications
206
ªRegularº unleaded gasoline. ªPremiumº unleaded gasoline is not
recommended (particularly in the United States) because it may cause
these problems to become more pronounced. If the problems persist, see
your authorized Mazda dealer.
It should not be necessary to add any aftermarket products to your fuel
tank if you continue to use high quality fuel of the recommended octane
rating.
Aftermarket products could cause damage to the fuel system.
Repairs to correct the effects of using an aftermarket product in
your fuel may not be covered by your warranty.
Many of the world's automakers
issued the World-wide Fuel Charter
that recommends gasoline
specifications to provide improved
performance and emission control
system protection for your vehicle.
Gasolines that meet the World-wide
Fuel Charter should be used when
available. Ask your fuel supplier
about gasolines that meet the
World-wide Fuel Charter. In Canada,
look for fuels that display theAuto Makers' Choiceylogo.
Cleaner air
Mazda endorses the use of reformulated ªcleaner-burningº gasolines to
improve air quality.
Running out of fuel
Avoid running out of fuel because this situation may have an adverse
affect on powertrain components.
If you have run out of fuel:
²You may need to cycle the ignition from OFF to ON several times after
refueling, to allow the fuel system to pump the fuel from the tank to
the engine.
²The
indicator may come on. For more information on the ªCheck
Engineº indicator, refer to theInstrument Clusterchapter.
Fuel Filler Cap
Your fuel tank filler cap has an indexed design with a 1/8 turn on/off
feature.
Maintenance and Specifications
227
ESSENTIALS OF GOOD FUEL ECONOMY
Measuring techniques
Your best source of information about actual fuel economy is you, the
driver. You must gather information as accurately and consistently as
possible. Fuel expense, frequency of fillups or fuel gauge readings are
NOT accurate as a measure of fuel economy. We do not recommend
taking fuel economy measurements during the first 1, 600 km (1, 000
miles) of driving (engine break-in period). You will get a more accurate
measurement after 3, 000 km±5, 000 km (2, 000 miles-3, 000 miles).
Filling the tank
The advertised fuel capacity of the fuel tank on your vehicle is equal to
the rated refill capacity of the fuel tank as listed in theRefill capacities
section of this chapter.
The advertised capacity is the amount of the indicated capacity and the
empty reserve combined. Indicated capacity is the difference in the
amount of fuel in a full tank and a tank when the fuel gauge indicates
empty. Empty reserve is the small amount of fuel remaining in the fuel
tank after the fuel gauge indicates empty.
The amount of usable fuel in the empty reserve varies and should
not be relied upon to increase driving range. When refueling your
vehicle after the fuel gauge indicates empty, you might not be
able to refuel the full amount of the advertised capacity of the
fuel tank due to the empty reserve still present in the tank.
For consistent results when filling the fuel tank:
²Turn the engine/ignition switch to the off position prior to refueling,
an error in the reading will result if the engine is left running.
²Use the same filling rate setting (low Ð medium Ð high) each time
the tank is filled.
²Allow no more than 2 automatic click-offs when filling.
²Always use fuel with the recommended octane rating.
²Use a known quality gasoline, preferably a national brand.
²Use the same side of the same pump and have the vehicle facing the
same direction each time you fill up.
²Have the vehicle loading and distribution the same every time.
Your results will be most accurate if your filling method is consistent.
Calculating fuel economy
1. Fill the fuel tank completely and record the initial odometer reading
(in kilometers or miles).
Maintenance and Specifications
229