2002 JEEP LIBERTY wheel

INSTALLATION
(1) Wipe the axle tube bore clean. Remove any old
sealer or burrs from the tube.
(2) Install anewaxle seal with Installer C-4076-B
and Handle C-4735-1. When the tool contacts the
axle tube, the seal is installed to the correct depth.
(3) Coat the lip of the seal with axle lubricant for
protection prior to installing the axle shaft.
(4) Install the axle shaft.
(5) Check and fill gear lubricant.
(6) Install wheel and tire assembly.
(7) Remove support and lower vehicle.
AXLE BEARINGS
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support vehicle.
(2) Remove axle shaft.
(3) Remove axle shaft seal from the axle tube with
a small pry bar (Fig. 22).
NOTE: The seal and bearing can be removed at the
same time with the bearing removal tool.
(4) Remove axle shaft bearing with Bearing
Removal Tool Set 6310 and Adapter Foot 6310-9 (Fig.
23).
INSTALLATION
(1) Wipe the axle tube bore clean. Remove any old
sealer or burrs from the tube.
(2) Install axle shaft bearing with Installer C-4198
and Handle C-4171.NOTE: Install bearing with part number against the
installer.
(3) Install anewaxle seal with Installer C-4198
and Handle C-4171. When the tool contacts the axle
tube, the seal is installed to the correct depth.
(4) Coat the lip of the seal with axle lubricant for
protection prior to installing the axle shaft.
(5) Install the axle shaft.
(6) Check and fill gear lubricant.
(7) Install wheel and tire assembly.
(8) Remove support and lower vehicle.
PINION SEAL
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Mark the universal joint, pinion yoke and pin-
ion shaft for installation reference.
(3) Remove propeller shaft from pinion yoke.
(4) Remove the wheel and tire assemblies.
(5) Remove the brake drums.
(6) Rotate the pinion yoke three or four times.
Fig. 22 Axle Seal
1 - AXLE TUBE
2 - AXLE SEAL
3-PRYBAR
Fig. 23 Axle Shaft Bearing
1 - NUT
2 - GUIDE PLATE
3 - GUIDE
4 - THREADED ROD
5 - ADAPTER
6 - FOOT
7 - AXLE TUBE
3 - 102 REAR AXLE-81/4KJ
AXLE SHAFT SEALS (Continued)

lbs.) increments until proper rotating torque is
achieved.
NOTE: The bearing rotating torque should be con-
stant during a complete revolution of the pinion. If
the rotating torque varies, it indicates a binding
condition.
(9) The seal replacement is unacceptable if the
final pinion nut torque is less than 285 N´m (210 ft.
lbs.).
(10) Install the propeller shaft with the installa-
tion reference marks aligned.
(11) Install the brake drums.
(12) Check the differential housing lubricant level.
(13) Install wheel and tire assemblies and lower
the vehicle.
DIFFERENTIAL
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support vehicle.
(2) Remove fill hole plug from the differential
housing cover.
(3) Remove differential housing cover and drain
housing.
(4) Clean the housing cavity with a flushing oil,
light engine oil or lint free cloth.Do not use water,
steam, kerosene or gasoline for cleaning.(5) Remove the axle shafts.
NOTE: Side play resulting from bearing races being
loose on case hubs requires replacement of the dif-
ferential case.
(6) Mark the differential housing and bearing caps
for installation reference (Fig. 28).
(7) Remove bearing threaded adjuster locks from
each bearing cap.
(8) Loosen bearing cap bolts, them loosen the
threaded adjusters with Wrench C-4164 (Fig. 29).
Fig. 27 Pinion Rotation Torque
1 - PINION YOKE
2 - INCH POUND TORQUE WRENCH
Fig. 28 Reference Mark
1 - REFERENCE MARKS
2 - REFERENCE MARKS
3 - DIFFERENTIAL HOUSING
4 - BEARING CAP
Fig. 29 Threaded Adjuster
1 - AXLE TUBE
2 - BACKING PLATE
3 - THREAD ADJUSTER WRENCH
3 - 104 REAR AXLE-81/4KJ
PINION SEAL (Continued)

(6) Install adjuster locks on the bearing caps.
(7) Install axle shafts.
(8) Apply a bead of red Mopar silicone rubber axle
sealant or equivalent to the housing cover (Fig. 33).
CAUTION: If cover is not installed within 3 to 5 min-
utes, the cover must be cleaned and new RTV
applied or adhesion quality will be compromised.
(9) Install cover and tighten bolts in a criss-cross
pattern to 41 N´m (30 ft. lbs.).
(10) Fill differential with gear lubricant to bottom
of the fill plug hole.
(11) Install the fill hole plug.
(12) Install wheel and tire assemblies.
(13) Remove support and lower vehicle.
(14) Trac-loktdifferential equipped vehicles should
be road tested by making 10 to 12 slow figure-eight
turns. This maneuver will pump the lubricant
through the clutch discs to eliminate a possible chat-
ter noise complaint.DIFFERENTIAL - TRAC-LOK
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - TRAC-LOKT
The most common problem is a chatter noise when
turning corners. Before removing the unit for repair,
drain, flush and refill the axle with the specified
lubricant. A container of Mopar Trac-loktLubricant
(friction modifier) should be added after repair ser-
vice or during a lubricant change.
After changing the lubricant, drive the vehicle and
make 10 to 12 slow, figure-eight turns. This maneu-
ver will pump lubricant through the clutches. This
will correct the condition in most instances. If the
chatter persists, clutch damage could have occurred.
DIFFERENTIAL TEST
The differential can be tested without removing the
differential case by measuring rotating torque. Make
sure brakes are not dragging during this measure-
ment.
(1) Place blocks in front and rear of both front
wheels.
(2) Raise one rear wheel until it is completely off
the ground.
(3) Engine off, transmission in neutral, and park-
ing brake off.
(4) Remove wheel and bolt Special Tool 6790 or
equivalent tool to studs.
(5) Use torque wrench on special tool to rotate
wheel and read rotating torque (Fig. 34).
(6) If rotating torque is less than 41 N´m (56 ft.
lbs.) or more than 271 N´m (200 ft. lbs.) on either
wheel the unit should be serviced.
Fig. 33 Differential Cover Sealant
1 - SEALANT
2 - DIFFERNTIAL COVER
Fig. 34 ROTATING TORQUE TEST
1 - SPECIAL TOOL WITH BOLT IN CENTER HOLE
2 - TORQUE WRENCH
3 - 106 REAR AXLE-81/4KJ
DIFFERENTIAL (Continued)

(15) Invert the differential case.
(16) Install ring gear on the differential case and
start two ring gear bolts. This will provide case-to-
ring gear bolt hole alignment.
(17) Invert the differential case in the vise.
(18) Installnewring gear bolts and alternately
tighten to 102 N´m (75 ft. lbs.) (Fig. 60).
CAUTION: Never reuse the ring gear bolts. The
bolts can fracture causing extensive damage.
(19) Install differential in axle housing and verify
gear mesh refer to Adjustments (Gear Contact Pat-
tern).
(20) Install differential cover fill with gear lubri-
cant.
(21) Install the propeller shaft with reference
marks aligned.
(22) Install wheel and tire assemblies and lower
the vehicle.
Fig. 60 Ring Gear
1 - TORQUE WRENCH
2 - BOLTS
3 - RING GEAR
4 - DIFFERENTIAL CASE
KJREAR AXLE - 8 1/4 3 - 115
PINION GEAR/RING GEAR/TONE RING (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - MASTER
CYLINDER/POWER BOOSTER...........21
REMOVAL.............................22
INSTALLATION.........................23
MASTER CYLINDER
DESCRIPTION.........................24
OPERATION...........................24
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - MASTER
CYLINDER/POWER BOOSTER...........24
STANDARD PROCEDURE - MASTER
CYLINDER BLEEDING..................24
REMOVAL.............................25
INSTALLATION.........................25
FLUID RESERVOIR
REMOVAL.............................26
INSTALLATION.........................26
FLUID
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - BRAKE FLUID
CONTAMINATION.....................26
STANDARD PROCEDURES - MASTER
CYLINDER FLUID LEVEL................26
SPECIFICATIONS
BRAKE FLUID........................27
DRUM
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - BRAKE DRUM . . . 27
STANDARD PROCEDURES - BRAKE DRUM
MACHINING..........................27SUPPORT PLATE
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - 198 RBI AXLE..............27
REMOVAL - 8 1/4 AXLE.................27
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - 198 RBI AXLE...........28
INSTALLATION - 8 1/4 AXLE.............28
WHEEL CYLINDERS
REMOVAL.............................28
DISASSEMBLY.........................28
CLEANING............................28
INSPECTION..........................29
ASSEMBLY............................29
INSTALLATION.........................29
PARKING BRAKE
DESCRIPTION.........................29
OPERATION...........................29
ADJUSTMENTS
ADJUSTMENT - LOCK OUT.............30
CABLES
REMOVAL.............................30
INSTALLATION.........................30
LEVER
REMOVAL.............................31
INSTALLATION.........................31
BRAKES - BASE
DESCRIPTION
Power assist front disc and rear drum brakes are
standard equipment. Disc brake components consist
of single piston calipers and ventilated rotors. Rear
drum brakes are dual shoe units with cast brake
drums.
The parking brake mechanism is lever and cable
operated. The cables are attached to levers on the
rear drum brake secondary shoes. The parking
brakes are operated by a hand lever.
A dual diaphragm vacuum power brake booster is
used for all applications. All models have an alumi-
num master cylinder with plastic reservoir.
All models are equipped with a combination valve.
The valve contains a pressure differential valve and
switch and a fixed rate rear proportioning valve.
Factory brake lining on all models consists of an
organic base material combined with metallic parti-
cles. The original equipment linings do not contain
asbestos.
WARNING
WARNING: DUST AND DIRT ACCUMULATING ON
BRAKE PARTS DURING NORMAL USE MAY CON-
TAIN ASBESTOS FIBERS FROM AFTERMARKET
LININGS. BREATHING EXCESSIVE CONCENTRA-
TIONS OF ASBESTOS FIBERS CAN CAUSE SERI-
OUS BODILY HARM. EXERCISE CARE WHEN
SERVICING BRAKE PARTS. DO NOT CLEAN
BRAKE PARTS WITH COMPRESSED AIR OR BY
DRY BRUSHING. USE A VACUUM CLEANER SPE-
CIFICALLY DESIGNED FOR THE REMOVAL OF
ASBESTOS FIBERS FROM BRAKE COMPONENTS.
IF A SUITABLE VACUUM CLEANER IS NOT AVAIL-
ABLE, CLEANING SHOULD BE DONE WITH A
WATER DAMPENED CLOTH. DO NOT SAND, OR
GRIND BRAKE LINING UNLESS EQUIPMENT USED
IS DESIGNED TO CONTAIN THE DUST RESIDUE.
DISPOSE OF ALL RESIDUE CONTAINING ASBES-
TOS FIBERS IN SEALED BAGS OR CONTAINERS
TO MINIMIZE EXPOSURE TO YOURSELF AND OTH-
ERS. FOLLOW PRACTICES PRESCRIBED BY THE
OCCUPATIONAL SAFETY AND HEALTH ADMINIS-
TRATION AND THE ENVIRONMENTAL PROTECTION
AGENCY FOR THE HANDLING, PROCESSING, AND
DISPOSITION OF DUST OR DEBRIS THAT MAY
CONTAIN ASBESTOS FIBERS.
5 - 2 BRAKES - BASEKJ

CAUTION: Never use gasoline, kerosene, alcohol,
motor oil, transmission fluid, or any fluid containing
mineral oil to clean the system components. These
fluids damage rubber cups and seals. Use only
fresh brake fluid or Mopar brake cleaner to clean or
flush brake system components. These are the only
cleaning materials recommended. If system contam-
ination is suspected, check the fluid for dirt, discol-
oration, or separation into distinct layers. Also
check the reservoir cap seal for distortion. Drain
and flush the system with new brake fluid if con-
tamination is suspected.
CAUTION: Use Mopar brake fluid, or an equivalent
quality fluid meeting SAE/DOT standards J1703 and
DOT 3. Brake fluid must be clean and free of con-
taminants. Use fresh fluid from sealed containers
only to ensure proper antilock component opera-
tion.
CAUTION: Use Mopar multi-mileage or high temper-
ature grease to lubricate caliper slide surfaces,
drum brake pivot pins, and shoe contact points on
the backing plates. Use multi-mileage grease or GE
661 or Dow 111 silicone grease on caliper slide pins
to ensure proper operation.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - BASE BRAKE
SYSTEM
Base brake components consist of the brake shoes,
calipers, wheel cylinders, brake drums, rotors, brake
lines, master cylinder, booster, and parking brake
components.
Brake diagnosis involves determining if the prob-
lem is related to a mechanical, hydraulic, or vacuum
operated component.
The first diagnosis step is the preliminary check.
PRELIMINARY BRAKE CHECK
(1) Check condition of tires and wheels. Damaged
wheels and worn, damaged, or underinflated tires
can cause pull, shudder, vibration, and a condition
similar to grab.
(2) If complaint was based on noise when braking,
check suspension components. Jounce front and rear
of vehicle and listen for noise that might be caused
by loose, worn or damaged suspension or steering
components.
(3) Inspect brake fluid level and condition. Note
that the brake reservoir fluid level will decrease in
proportion to normal lining wear.Also note that
brake fluid tends to darken over time. This is
normal and should not be mistaken for contam-
ination.(a) If fluid level is abnormally low, look for evi-
dence of leaks at calipers, wheel cylinders, brake
lines, and master cylinder.
(b) If fluid appears contaminated, drain out a
sample to examine. System will have to be flushed
if fluid is separated into layers, or contains a sub-
stance other than brake fluid. The system seals
and cups will also have to be replaced after flush-
ing. Use clean brake fluid to flush the system.
(4) Check parking brake operation. Verify free
movement and full release of cables and pedal. Also
note if vehicle was being operated with parking
brake partially applied.
(5) Check brake pedal operation. Verify that pedal
does not bind and has adequate free play. If pedal
lacks free play, check pedal and power booster for
being loose or for bind condition. Do not road test
until condition is corrected.
(6) Check booster vacuum check valve and hose.
(7) If components checked appear OK, road test
the vehicle.
ROAD TESTING
(1) If complaint involved low brake pedal, pump
pedal and note if it comes back up to normal height.
(2) Check brake pedal response with transmission
in Neutral and engine running. Pedal should remain
firm under constant foot pressure.
(3) During road test, make normal and firm brake
stops in 25-40 mph range. Note faulty brake opera-
tion such as low pedal, hard pedal, fade, pedal pulsa-
tion, pull, grab, drag, noise, etc.
(4) Attempt to stop the vehicle with the parking
brake only and note grab, drag, noise, etc.
PEDAL FALLS AWAY
A brake pedal that falls away under steady foot
pressure is generally the result of a system leak. The
leak point could be at a brake line, fitting, hose, or
caliper/wheel cylinder. If leakage is severe, fluid will
be evident at or around the leaking component.
Internal leakage (seal by-pass) in the master cylin-
der caused by worn or damaged piston cups, may
also be the problem cause.
An internal leak in the ABS or RWAL system may
also be the problem with no physical evidence.
LOW PEDAL
If a low pedal is experienced, pump the pedal sev-
eral times. If the pedal comes back up worn linings,
rotors, drums, or rear brakes out of adjustment are
the most likely causes. The proper course of action is
to inspect and replace all worn component and make
the proper adjustments.
KJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 3
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

SPONGY PEDAL
A spongy pedal is most often caused by air in the
system. However, thin brake drums or substandard
brake lines and hoses can also cause a spongy pedal.
The proper course of action is to bleed the system,
and replace thin drums and substandard quality
brake hoses if suspected.
HARD PEDAL OR HIGH PEDAL EFFORT
A hard pedal or high pedal effort may be due to
lining that is water soaked, contaminated, glazed, or
badly worn. The power booster or check valve could
also be faulty.
PEDAL PULSATION
Pedal pulsation is caused by components that are
loose, or beyond tolerance limits.
The primary cause of pulsation are disc brake
rotors with excessive lateral runout or thickness vari-
ation, or out of round brake drums. Other causes are
loose wheel bearings or calipers and worn, damaged
tires.
NOTE: Some pedal pulsation may be felt during
ABS activation.
BRAKE DRAG
Brake drag occurs when the lining is in constant
contact with the rotor or drum. Drag can occur at one
wheel, all wheels, fronts only, or rears only.
Drag is a product of incomplete brake shoe release.
Drag can be minor or severe enough to overheat the
linings, rotors and drums.
Minor drag will usually cause slight surface char-
ring of the lining. It can also generate hard spots in
rotors and drums from the overheat-cool down pro-
cess. In most cases, the rotors, drums, wheels and
tires are quite warm to the touch after the vehicle is
stopped.
Severe drag can char the brake lining all the way
through. It can also distort and score rotors and
drums to the point of replacement. The wheels, tires
and brake components will be extremely hot. In
severe cases, the lining may generate smoke as it
chars from overheating.
Common causes of brake drag are:
²Seized or improperly adjusted parking brake
cables.
²Loose/worn wheel bearing.
²Seized caliper or wheel cylinder piston.
²Caliper binding on corroded bushings or rusted
slide surfaces.
²Loose caliper mounting.
²Drum brake shoes binding on worn/damaged
support plates.
²Mis-assembled components.²Long booster output rod.
If brake drag occurs at all wheels, the problem
may be related to a blocked master cylinder return
port, or faulty power booster (binds-does not release).
BRAKE FADE
Brake fade is usually a product of overheating
caused by brake drag. However, brake overheating
and resulting fade can also be caused by riding the
brake pedal, making repeated high deceleration stops
in a short time span, or constant braking on steep
mountain roads. Refer to the Brake Drag information
in this section for causes.
BRAKE PULL
Front brake pull condition could result from:
²Contaminated lining in one caliper
²Seized caliper piston
²Binding caliper
²Loose caliper
²Rusty caliper slide surfaces
²Improper brake shoes
²Damaged rotor
A worn, damaged wheel bearing or suspension
component are further causes of pull. A damaged
front tire (bruised, ply separation) can also cause
pull.
A common and frequently misdiagnosed pull condi-
tion is where direction of pull changes after a few
stops. The cause is a combination of brake drag fol-
lowed by fade at one of the brake units.
As the dragging brake overheats, efficiency is so
reduced that fade occurs. Since the opposite brake
unit is still functioning normally, its braking effect is
magnified. This causes pull to switch direction in
favor of the normally functioning brake unit.
An additional point when diagnosing a change in
pull condition concerns brake cool down. Remember
that pull will return to the original direction, if the
dragging brake unit is allowed to cool down (and is
not seriously damaged).
REAR BRAKE GRAB OR PULL
Rear grab or pull is usually caused by improperly
adjusted or seized parking brake cables, contami-
nated lining, bent or binding shoes and support
plates, or improperly assembled components. This is
particularly true when only one rear wheel is
involved. However, when both rear wheels are
affected, the master cylinder or proportioning valve
could be at fault.
5 - 4 BRAKES - BASEKJ
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

BRAKES DO NOT HOLD AFTER DRIVING THROUGH DEEP
WATER PUDDLES
This condition is generally caused by water soaked
lining. If the lining is only wet, it can be dried by
driving with the brakes very lightly applied for a
mile or two. However, if the lining is both soaked and
dirt contaminated, cleaning and/or replacement will
be necessary.
BRAKE LINING CONTAMINATION
Brake lining contamination is mostly a product of
leaking calipers or wheel cylinders, worn seals, driv-
ing through deep water puddles, or lining that has
become covered with grease and grit during repair.
Contaminated lining should be replaced to avoid fur-
ther brake problems.
WHEEL AND TIRE PROBLEMS
Some conditions attributed to brake components
may actually be caused by a wheel or tire problem.
A damaged wheel can cause shudder, vibration and
pull. A worn or damaged tire can also cause pull.
Severely worn tires with very little tread left can
produce a grab-like condition as the tire loses and
recovers traction. Flat-spotted tires can cause vibra-
tion and generate shudder during brake operation. A
tire with internal damage such as a severe bruise,
cut, or ply separation can cause pull and vibration.
BRAKE NOISES
Some brake noise is common with rear drum
brakes and on some disc brakes during the first few
stops after a vehicle has been parked overnight or
stored. This is primarily due to the formation of trace
corrosion (light rust) on metal surfaces. This light
corrosion is typically cleared from the metal surfaces
after a few brake applications causing the noise to
subside.
BRAKE SQUEAK/SQUEAL
Brake squeak or squeal may be due to linings that
are wet or contaminated with brake fluid, grease, or
oil. Glazed linings and rotors with hard spots can
also contribute to squeak. Dirt and foreign material
embedded in the brake lining will also cause squeak/
squeal.
A very loud squeak or squeal is frequently a sign of
severely worn brake lining. If the lining has worn
through to the brake shoes in spots, metal-to-metal
contact occurs. If the condition is allowed to continue,
rotors and drums can become so scored that replace-
ment is necessary.
BRAKE CHATTER
Brake chatter is usually caused by loose or worn
components, or glazed/burnt lining. Rotors with hard
spots can also contribute to chatter. Additional causesof chatter are out-of-tolerance rotors, brake lining not
securely attached to the shoes, loose wheel bearings
and contaminated brake lining.
THUMP/CLUNK NOISE
Thumping or clunk noises during braking are fre-
quentlynotcaused by brake components. In many
cases, such noises are caused by loose or damaged
steering, suspension, or engine components. However,
calipers that bind on the slide surfaces can generate
a thump or clunk noise. In addition, worn out,
improperly adjusted, or improperly assembled rear
brake shoes can also produce a thump noise.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - PRESSURE
BLEEDING
Use Mopar brake fluid, or an equivalent quality
fluid meeting SAE J1703-F and DOT 3 standards
only. Use fresh, clean fluid from a sealed container at
all times.
Do not pump the brake pedal at any time while
bleeding. Air in the system will be compressed into
small bubbles that are distributed throughout the
hydraulic system. This will make additional bleeding
operations necessary.
Do not allow the master cylinder to run out of fluid
during bleed operations. An empty cylinder will allow
additional air to be drawn into the system. Check the
cylinder fluid level frequently and add fluid as
needed.
Bleed only one brake component at a time in the
following sequence:
²Master Cylinder
²Combination Valve
²Right Rear Wheel
²Left Rear Wheel
²Right Front Wheel
²Left Front Wheel
Follow the manufacturers instructions carefully
when using pressure equipment. Do not exceed the
tank manufacturers pressure recommendations. Gen-
erally, a tank pressure of 15-20 psi is sufficient for
bleeding.
Fill the bleeder tank with recommended fluid and
purge air from the tank lines before bleeding.
Do not pressure bleed without a proper master cyl-
inder adapter. The wrong adapter can lead to leak-
age, or drawing air back into the system. Use
adapter provided with the equipment or Adapter
6921.
KJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 5
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)