
(20) After installing all chains, it is recommended
that the idler gear end play be checked (Fig. 112).
The end play must be within 0.10±0.25 mm (0.004±
0.010 in.). If not within specification, the idler gear
must be replaced.
(21) Install timing chain cover and crankshaft
damper. Refer to procedures.
(22) Install cylinder head covers. Refer to proce-
dures.
NOTE: Before installing threaded plug in right cylin-
der head, the plug must be coated with sealant to
prevent leaks.(23) Coat the large threaded access plug with
MopartThread Sealant with Teflon, then install
into the right cylinder head and tighten to 81 N´m
(60 ft. lbs.).
(24) Install the oil fill housing.
(25) Install access plug in left cylinder head.
(26) Install power steering pump.
(27) Fill cooling system.
(28) Connect negative cable to battery.
Fig. 111 Tightening Right Side Camshaft Sprocket
Bolt
1 - TORQUE WRENCH
2 - SPECIAL TOOL 6958 WITH ADAPTER PINS 8346
3 - LEFT CAMSHAFT SPROCKET
4 - RIGHT CAMSHAFT SPROCKETFig. 112 Measuring Idler Gear End Play
1 - IDLER SPROCKET ASSEMBLY
2 - DIAL INDICATOR
9 - 82 ENGINE - 3.7LKJ
TIMING BELT/CHAIN AND SPROCKET(S (Continued)

ENGINE - 2.4L
DESCRIPTION
The 2.4 Liter (148 cu. in.) in-line four cylinder
engine is a double over head camshaft with hydraulic
lifters and four valve per cylinder design. The engine
is free-wheeling; meaning it has provisions for piston-
to-valve clearance. However valve-to-valve interference
can occur, if camshafts are rotated independently.
The cylinders are numbered from front of the
engine to the rear. The firing order is 1±3±4±2.
The engine identification number is located on the
rear of the cylinder block (Fig. 1).
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CYLINDER
COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE TEST
The combustion pressure leakage test provides an
accurate means for determining engine condition.
Combustion pressure leakage testing will detect:
²Exhaust and intake valve leaks (improper seat-
ing).
²Leaks between adjacent cylinders or into water
jacket.
²Any causes for combustion/compression pressure
loss.WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE PRESSURE CAP
WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER PRESSURE
BECAUSE SERIOUS BURNS FROM COOLANT CAN
OCCUR.
Check the coolant level and fill as required. DO
NOT install the pressure cap.
Start and operate the engine until it attains nor-
mal operating temperature, then turn the engine
OFF.
Clean spark plug recesses with compressed air.
Remove the spark plugs.
Remove the oil filler cap.
Remove the air cleaner.
Calibrate the tester according to the manufactur-
er's instructions. The shop air source for testing
should maintain 483 kPa (70 psi) minimum, 1,379
kPa (200 psi) maximum, with 552 kPa (80 psi) rec-
ommended.
Perform the test procedures on each cylinder
according to the tester manufacturer's instructions.
While testing, listen for pressurized air escaping
through the throttle body, tailpipe and oil filler cap
opening. Check for bubbles in the coolant.
All gauge pressure indications should be equal,
with no more than 25% leakage per cylinder.
FOR EXAMPLE:At 552 kPa (80 psi) input pres-
sure, a minimum of 414 kPa (60 psi) should be main-
tained in the cylinder.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CYLINDER
COMPRESSION PRESSURE TEST
The results of a cylinder compression pressure test
can be utilized to diagnose several engine malfunc-
tions.
Ensure the battery is completely charged and the
engine starter motor is in good operating condition.
Otherwise the indicated compression pressures may
not be valid for diagnosis purposes.
(1) Check engine oil level and add oil if necessary.
(2) Drive the vehicle until engine reaches normal
operating temperature. Select a route free from traf-
fic and other forms of congestion, observe all traffic
laws, and accelerate through the gears several times
briskly.
(3) Remove all spark plugs from engine. As spark
plugs are being removed, check electrodes for abnor-
mal firing indicators fouled, hot, oily, etc. Record cyl-
inder number of spark plug for future reference.
(4) Remove the Auto Shutdown (ASD) relay from
the PDC.
(5) Be sure throttle blade is fully open during the
compression check.
(6) Insert compression gage adaptor Special Tool
8116 or the equivalent, into the #1 spark plug hole in
cylinder head. Connect the 0±500 psi (Blue) pressure
transducer with cable adaptors to the DRBIIIt.
Fig. 1 ENGINE IDENTIFICATION
1 - ENGINE IDENTIFICATION
KJENGINE9s-3

(7) Crank engine until maximum pressure is
reached on gage. Record this pressure as #1 cylinder
pressure.
(8) Repeat the previous step for all remaining cyl-
inders.
(9) Compression should not be less than 689 kPa
(100 psi) and not vary more than 25 percent from cyl-
inder to cylinder.
(10) If one or more cylinders have abnormally low
compression pressures, repeat the compression test.
(11) If the same cylinder or cylinders repeat an
abnormally low reading on the second compression
test, it could indicate the existence of a problem in
the cylinder in question.The recommended com-
pression pressures are to be used only as a
guide to diagnosing engine problems. An engine
should not be disassembled to determine the
cause of low compression unless some malfunc-
tion is present.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE OIL LEAK
INSPECTION
Begin with a thorough visual inspection of the
engine, particularly at the area of the suspected leak.
If an oil leak source is not readily identifiable, the
following steps should be followed:
(1) Do not clean or degrease the engine at this
time because some solvents may cause rubber to
swell, temporarily stopping the leak.
(2) Add an oil soluble dye (use as recommended by
manufacturer). Start the engine and let idle for
approximately 15 minutes. Check the oil dipstick to
make sure the dye is thoroughly mixed as indicated
with a bright yellow color under a black light.
(3) Using a black light, inspect the entire engine
for fluorescent dye, particularly at the suspected area
of oil leak. If the oil leak is found and identified,
repair as necessary.
(4) If dye is not observed, drive the vehicle at var-
ious speeds for approximately 24 km (15 miles), and
repeat inspection.
(5)If the oil leak source is not positively
identified at this time, proceed with the air leak
detection test method as follows:
²Disconnect the fresh air hose (make-up air) at
the cylinder head cover and plug or cap the nipple on
the cover.
²Remove the PCV valve hose from the cylinder
head cover. Cap or plug the PCV valve nipple on the
cover.
²Attach an air hose with pressure gauge and reg-
ulator to the dipstick tube.
CAUTION: Do not subject the engine assembly to
more than 20.6 kpa (3 PSI) of test pressure.²Gradually apply air pressure from 1 psi to 2.5
psi maximum while applying soapy water at the sus-
pected source. Adjust the regulator to the suitable
test pressure that provides the best bubbles which
will pinpoint the leak source. If the oil leak is
detected and identified, repair per service manual
procedures.
²If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil
seal area, refer to the section, Inspection for Rear
Seal Area Leak.
(6) If no leaks are detected, turn off the air supply.
Remove the air hose, all plugs, and caps. Install the
PCV valve and fresh air hose (make-up air). Proceed
to next step.
(7) Clean the oil off the suspect oil leak area using
a suitable solvent. Drive the vehicle at various
speeds approximately 24 km (15 miles). Inspect the
engine for signs of an oil leak by using a black light.
NOTE: If oil leakage is observed at the dipstick tube
to block location; remove the tube, clean and reseal
using MoparTStud & Bearing Mount (press fit tube
applications only), and for O-ring style tubes,
remove tube and replace the O-ring seal.
INSPECTION FOR REAR SEAL AREA LEAKS
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the
source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the
engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. The
following steps should be followed to help pinpoint
the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal
area:
(1) Disconnect the battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
(3) Remove torque converter or clutch housing
cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil.
Use a black light to check for the oil leak. If a leak is
present in this area, remove transmission for further
inspection.
(a) Circular spray pattern generally indicates
seal leakage or crankshaft damage.
(b) Where leakage tends to run straight down,
possible causes are a porous block, oil gallery cup
plug, bedplate to cylinder block mating surfaces
and seal bore. See proper repair procedures for
these items.
(4) If no leaks are detected, pressurize the crank-
case as previously described.
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
(5) If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the
crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is
detected between the crankshaft and seal while
slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the
9s - 4 ENGINEKJ
ENGINE - 2.4L (Continued)

crankshaft seal surface is damaged. The seal area on
the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches
that can be polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft
polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks and
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is especially
machined to complement the function of the rear oil
seal.
(6) For bubbles that remain steady with shaft
rotation, no further inspection can be done until dis-
assembled.
(7) After the oil leak root cause and appropriate
corrective action have been identified, replace compo-
nent(s) as necessary.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE
Engine diagnosis is helpful in determining the
causes of malfunctions not detected and remedied by
routine maintenance.
These malfunctions may be classified as either
mechanical (e.g., a strange noise), or performance
(e.g., engine idles rough and stalls).Refer to the Engine Mechanical and the Engine
Performance diagnostic charts, for possible causes
and corrections of malfunctions (Refer to 9 - ENGINE
- DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - MECHANICAL)
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
- PERFORMANCE).
For fuel system diagnosis, (Refer to 14 - FUEL
SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING).
Additional tests and diagnostic procedures may be
necessary for specific engine malfunctions that can-
not be isolated with the Service Diagnosis charts.
Information concerning additional tests and diagno-
sis is provided within the following:
²Cylinder Compression Pressure Test
²Cylinder Combustion Pressure Leakage Test
²Engine Cylinder Head Gasket Failure Diagnosis
²Intake Manifold Leakage Diagnosis
²Lash Adjuster (Tappet) Noise Diagnosis
²Engine Oil Leak Inspection
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE DIAGNOSIS - PERFORMANCE
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION
ENGINE WILL NOT START 1. Weak battery. 1. Test battery. Charge or replace
as necessary. (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/BATTERY SYSTEM -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING)
2. Corroded or loose battery
connections.2. Clean and tighten battery
connections. Apply a coat of light
mineral grease to terminals.
3. Faulty starter. 3. Test starting system. (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/STARTING -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING)
4. Faulty coil(s) or control unit. 4. Test and replace as needed.
(Refer to Appropriate Diagnostic
Information)
5. Incorrect spark plug gap. 5. Set gap. (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/IGNITION CONTROL
- SPECIFICATIONS)
6. Contamination in fuel system. 6. Clean system and replace fuel
filter.
7. Faulty fuel pump. 7. Test fuel pump and replace as
needed. (Refer to Appropriate
Diagnostic Information)
8. Incorrect engine timing. 8. Check for a skipped timing
belt/chain.
KJENGINE9s-5
ENGINE - 2.4L (Continued)

(1) Inspect air cleaner, induction system and
intake manifold to insure system is dry and clear of
foreign material.
(2) Remove negative battery cable.
(3) Place a shop towel around the spark plugs
when removing them from the engine. This will catch
any fluid that may possibly be in the cylinder under
pressure.
(4) With all spark plugs removed, rotate engine
crankshaft using a breaker bar and socket.
(5) Identify the fluid in the cylinder(s) (i.e., cool-
ant, fuel, oil or other).
(6) Make sure all fluid has been removed from the
cylinders. Inspect engine for damage (i.e., connecting
rods, pistons, valves, etc.)
(7) Repair engine or components as necessary to
prevent this problem from re-occurring.
CAUTION: Squirt approximately one teaspoon of oil
into the cylinders, rotate engine to lubricate the cyl-
inder walls to prevent damage on restart.
(8) Install new spark plugs.
(9) Drain engine oil and remove oil filter.
(10) Install a new oil filter.
(11) Fill engine with specified amount of approved
oil.
(12) Connect negative battery cable.
(13) Start engine and check for any leaks.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - FORM-IN-PLACE
GASKETS AND SEALERS
There are numerous places where form-in-place
gaskets are used on the engine. Care must be taken
when applying form-in-place gaskets to assure
obtaining the desired results.Do not use form-in-
place gasket material unless specified.Bead size,
continuity, and location are of great importance. Too
thin a bead can result in leakage while too much can
result in spill-over which can break off and obstruct
fluid feed lines. A continuous bead of the proper
width is essential to obtain a leak-free gasket.
There are numerous types of form-in-place gasket
materials that are used in the engine area. Mopart
Engine RTV GEN II, MopartATF-RTV, and Mopart
Gasket Maker gasket materials, each have different
properties and can not be used in place of the other.
MOPARtENGINE RTV GEN IIis used to seal
components exposed to engine oil. This material is a
specially designed black silicone rubber RTV that
retains adhesion and sealing properties when
exposed to engine oil. Moisture in the air causes the
material to cure. This material is available in three
ounce tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one
year this material will not properly cure. Alwaysinspect the package for the expiration date before
use.
MOPARtATF RTVis a specifically designed
black silicone rubber RTV that retains adhesion and
sealing properties to seal components exposed to
automatic transmission fluid, engine coolants, and
moisture. This material is available in three ounce
tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one year
this material will not properly cure. Always inspect
the package for the expiration date before use.
MOPARtGASKET MAKERis an anaerobic type
gasket material. The material cures in the absence of
air when squeezed between two metallic surfaces. It
will not cure if left in the uncovered tube. The
anaerobic material is for use between two machined
surfaces. Do not use on flexible metal flanges.
MOPARtBED PLATE SEALANTis a unique
(green-in-color) anaerobic type gasket material that
is specially made to seal the area between the bed-
plate and cylinder block without disturbing the bear-
ing clearance or alignment of these components. The
material cures slowly in the absence of air when
torqued between two metallic surfaces, and will rap-
idly cure when heat is applied.
MOPARtGASKET SEALANTis a slow drying,
permanently soft sealer. This material is recom-
mended for sealing threaded fittings and gaskets
against leakage of oil and coolant. Can be used on
threaded and machined parts under all tempera-
tures. This material is used on engines with multi-
layer steel (MLS) cylinder head gaskets. This
material also will prevent corrosion. MopartGasket
Sealant is available in a 13 oz. aerosol can or 4oz./16
oz. can w/applicator.
SEALER APPLICATION
MopartGasket Maker material should be applied
sparingly 1 mm (0.040 in.) diameter or less of sealant
to one gasket surface. Be certain the material sur-
rounds each mounting hole. Excess material can eas-
ily be wiped off. Components should be torqued in
place within 15 minutes. The use of a locating dowel
is recommended during assembly to prevent smear-
ing material off the location.
MopartEngine RTV GEN II or ATF RTV gasket
material should be applied in a continuous bead
approximately 3 mm (0.120 in.) in diameter. All
mounting holes must be circled. For corner sealing, a
3.17 or 6.35 mm (1/8 or 1/4 in.) drop is placed in the
center of the gasket contact area. Uncured sealant
may be removed with a shop towel. Components
should be torqued in place while the sealant is still
wet to the touch (within 10 minutes). The usage of a
locating dowel is recommended during assembly to
prevent smearing material off the location.
9s - 10 ENGINEKJ
ENGINE - 2.4L (Continued)

NOTE: Plastigage is available in a variety of clear-
ance ranges. Use the most appropriate range for
the specifications you are checking.
(4) Install the proper crankshaft bearings to
achieve the specified bearing clearances. (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/CRANKSHAFT MAIN
BEARINGS - STANDARD PROCEDURE) (Refer to 9
- ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/CONNECTING ROD
BEARINGS - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
REMOVAL - ENGINE ASSEMBLY
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cable.
(2) Remove hood. Mark hood hinge location for
reinstallation.
(3) Remove air cleaner assembly.
(4) Remove radiator core support bracket.
(5) Remove fan shroud with electric fan assembly.
(6) Remove drive belt.
NOTE: It is NOT necessary to discharge the A/C
system to remove the engine.
(7) Remove A/C compressor and secure away from
engine with lines attached.
(8) Remove generator and secure away from
engine.
NOTE: Do NOT remove the phenolic pulley from the
P/S pump. It is not required for P/S pump removal.
(9) Remove power steering pump with lines
attached and secure away from engine.
(10) Drain cooling system.
(11) Remove coolant bottle.
(12) Disconnect the heater hoses from the engine.
(13) Disconnect heater hoses from heater core and
remove hose assembly.
(14) Disconnect throttle and speed control cables.
(15) Remove upper radiator hose from engine.
(16) Remove lower radiator hose from engine.
(17) Disconnect the engine to body ground straps
at the left side of cowl.
(18) Disconnect the engine wiring harness at the
following points:
²Intake air temperature (IAT) sensor
²Fuel Injectors
²Throttle Position (TPS) Switch
²Idle Air Control (IAC) Motor
²Engine Oil Pressure Switch
²Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor
²Manifold Absolute Pressure MAP) Sensor
²Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor
²Coil Over Plugs
²Crankshaft Position Sensor
(19) Remove coil over plugs.
(20) Release fuel rail pressure.(21) Remove fuel rail and secure away from
engine.
(22) Remove the PCV hose.
(23) Remove the breather hoses.
(24) Remove the vacuum hose for the power brake
booster.
(25) Disconnect knock sensors.
(26) Secure the left and right engine wiring har-
nesses away from engine.
(27) Raise vehicle.
(28) Disconnect oxygen sensor wiring.
(29) Disconnect crankshaft postion sensor.
(30) Disconnect the engine block heater power
cable, if equipped.
(31) Disconnect the front propshaft at the front
differential and secure out of way.
(32) Remove the starter.
(33) Remove the ground straps from the engine
(34) Disconnect the exhaust pipes at the manifold.
(35) Remove the structural cover, if equipped.
(36) Remove torque convertor bolts, and mark
location for reassembly.
(37) Remove transmission bellhousing to engine
bolts.
(38) Loosen left and right engine mount thru bolts.
NOTE: It is not necessary to completely remove
engine mount thru bolts, for engine removal.
(39) Lower the vehicle.
(40) Support the transmission with a suitable jack.
(41) Connect a suitable engine hoist to the engine.
CAUTION: The 2.4L engine with manual transmis-
sions, can be removed without removing the man-
ual transmission. Use caution when attempting this
procedure as the clearance is tight.
(42) Remove engine from vehicle.
INSTALLATION - ENGINE ASSEMBLY
(1) Position the engine in the vehicle.
CAUTION: Use caution when installing 2.4L engine
into vehicle equipped with manual transmission, as
clearance is tight.
(2) Install both left and right side engine mounts
into the frame mounts.
(3) Raise the vehicle.
(4) Install the transmission bellhousing to engine
mounting bolts. Tighten the bolts to 41 N´m (30ft.
lbs.).
(5) Tighten the engine mount thru bolts.
(6) Install the torque convertor bolts.
(7) Connect the ground straps on the left and right
side of the engine.
9s - 12 ENGINEKJ
ENGINE - 2.4L (Continued)

(8) Install the starter.
(9) Connect the crankshaft position sensor.
(10) Install the engine block heater power cable, if
equipped.
CAUTION: The structural cover requires a specific
torque sequence. Failure to follow this sequence
may cause severe damage to the cover.
(11) Install the structural cover.
(12) Install the exhaust pipe.
(13) Connect the oxygen sensors.
(14) Lower vehicle.
(15) Connect the knock sensors.
(16) Connect the engine to body ground straps.
(17) Install the power brake booster vacuum hose.
(18) Install the breather hoses.
(19) Install the PCV hose.
(20) Install the fuel rail.
(21) Install the coil over plugs.
(22) Reconnect the engine wiring harness at the
following points:
²Intake air temperature (IAT) sensor
²Fuel Injectors
²Throttle Position (TPS) Switch
²Idle Air Control (IAC) Motor
²Engine Oil Pressure Switch
²Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor
²Manifold Absolute Pressure MAP) Sensor
²Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor
²Coil Over Plugs
²Crankshaft Position Sensor
(23) Connect lower radiator hose.
(24) Connect upper radiator hose.
(25) Connect throttle and speed control cables.
(26) Install the heater hose assembly.
(27) Install coolant recovery bottle.
(28) Install the power steering pump.
(29) Install the generator.
(30) Install the A/C compressor.
(31) Install the drive belt.
(32) Install the fan shroud with the electric fan
assembly.
(33) Install the radiator core support bracket.
(34) Install the air cleaner assembly.
(35) Refill the engine cooling system.
(36) Install the hood.
(37) Check and fill engine oil.
(38) Connect the battery negative cable.
(39) Start the engine and check for leaks.SPECIFICATIONS
SPECIFICATIONS - 2.4L ENGINE
DESCRIPTION SPECIFICATION
General Specification
Type In-Line OHV, DOHC
Number of Cylinders 4
Displacement 2.4 Liters
(148 cu. in.)
Bore 87.5 mm
(3.445 in.)
Stroke 101.0 mm
(3.976 in.)
Compression Ratio 9.4:1
Firing Order 1-3-4-2
Compression Pressure 690 kPa (Minimum)
(100 psi Minimum)
Max. Variation Between
Cylinders25%
Cylinder Block
Cylinder Bore Diameter 87.4924±87.5076 mm
(3.4446±3.4452 in.)
Out-of-Round (Max.) 0.051 mm
(0.002 in.)
Taper (Max.) 0.051 mm
(0.002 in.)
Pistons
Piston Diameter 87.463±87.481 mm
(3.4434±3.4441 in.)
Clearance @ 14 mm
(9/16 in.) from bottom of
skirt0.024±0.057 mm
(0.0009±0.0022 in.)
Weight 346±356 grams
(12.20±12.56 oz.)
Land Clearance
(Diametrical)0.614±0.664 mm
(0.024±0.026 in.)
Piston Length 66.25 mm
(2.608 in.)
Piston Ring Groove
Depth No. 14.640±4.784 mm
(0.182±0.188 in.)
Piston Ring Groove
Depth No. 24.575±4.719 mm
(0.180±0.185 in.)
KJENGINE9s-13
ENGINE - 2.4L (Continued)

Possible indications of the cylinder head gasket
leaking between a cylinder and an adjacent water
jacket are:
²Engine overheating
²Loss of coolant
²Excessive steam (white smoke) emitting from
exhaust
²Coolant foaming
CYLINDER-TO-CYLINDER LEAKAGE TEST
To determine if an engine cylinder head gasket is
leaking between adjacent cylinders, follow the proce-
dures in Cylinder Compression Pressure Test (Refer
to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING). An
engine cylinder head gasket leaking between adja-
cent cylinders will result in approximately a 50±70%
reduction in compression pressure.
CYLINDER-TO-WATER JACKET LEAKAGE TEST
WARNING: USE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN THE
ENGINE IS OPERATING WITH COOLANT PRES-
SURE CAP REMOVED.
VISUAL TEST METHOD
With the engine cool, remove the coolant pressure
cap. Start the engine and allow it to warm up until
thermostat opens.
If a large combustion/compression pressure leak
exists, bubbles will be visible in the coolant.
COOLING SYSTEM TESTER METHOD
WARNING: WITH COOLING SYSTEM TESTER IN
PLACE, PRESSURE WILL BUILD UP FAST. EXCES-
SIVE PRESSURE BUILT UP, BY CONTINUOUS
ENGINE OPERATION, MUST BE RELEASED TO A
SAFE PRESSURE POINT. NEVER PERMIT PRES-
SURE TO EXCEED 138 kPa (20 psi).
Install Cooling System Tester 7700 or equivalent to
pressure cap neck. Start the engine and observe the
tester's pressure gauge. If gauge pulsates with every
power stroke of a cylinder a combustion pressure
leak is evident.
CHEMICAL TEST METHOD
Combustion leaks into the cooling system can also
be checked by using Bloc-Chek Kit C-3685-A or
equivalent. Perform test following the procedures
supplied with the tool kit.
REMOVAL - CYLINDER HEAD
(1) Perform fuel system pressure release procedure
before attempting any repairs.(Refer to 14 -FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY - SPECIFICA-
TIONS)
(2) Disconnect battery negative cable.
(3) Drain cooling system. (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE)
(4) Remove air filter housing and inlet tube.
(5) Remove intake manifold.
(6) Remove heater tube support bracket from cyl-
inder head.
(7) Disconnect radiator upper and heater supply
hoses from water outlet connections.
(8) Remove accessory drive belts. (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
REMOVAL)
(9) Raise vehicle and remove exhaust pipe from
manifold.
(10) Remove power steering pump and set aside.
Do not disconnect lines.
(11) Remove accessory drive bracket
(12) Remove ignition coil and wires from engine.
(13) Disconnect cam sensor and fuel injector wir-
ing connectors.
(14) Remove timing belt and camshaft sprockets.
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING
BELT/CHAIN AND SPROCKETS - REMOVAL)
(15) Remove timing belt idler pulley and rear tim-
ing belt cover. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE TIM-
ING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN COVER(S) -
REMOVAL)
(16) Remove cylinder head cover. (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - REMOVAL)
(17) Remove camshafts (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
CYLINDER HEAD/CAMSHAFT(S) - REMOVAL).
NOTE: Identify rocker arm position to ensure cor-
rect re-installation in original position, if reused.
(18) Remove rocker arms. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
CYLINDER HEAD/ROCKER ARMS - REMOVAL).
(19) Remove cylinder head bolts in REVERSE
sequence of tightening.
(20) Remove cylinder head from engine block.
(21) Inspect and clean cylinder head. (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD - INSPECTION) (Refer
to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD - CLEANING)
CLEANING
To ensure engine gasket sealing, proper surface
preparation must be performed, especially with the
use of aluminum engine components and multi-layer
steel cylinder head gaskets.
NOTE: Multi-Layer Steel (MLS) head gaskets require
a scratch free sealing surface.
9s - 20 ENGINEKJ
CYLINDER HEAD (Continued)