2002 JEEP LIBERTY Change JB

SPONGY PEDAL
A spongy pedal is most often caused by air in the
system. However, thin brake drums or substandard
brake lines and hoses can also cause a spongy pedal.
The proper course of action is to bleed the system,
and replace thin drums and substandard quality
brake hoses if suspected.
HARD PEDAL OR HIGH PEDAL EFFORT
A hard pedal or high pedal effort may be due to
lining that is water soaked, contaminated, glazed, or
badly worn. The power booster or check valve could
also be faulty.
PEDAL PULSATION
Pedal pulsation is caused by components that are
loose, or beyond tolerance limits.
The primary cause of pulsation are disc brake
rotors with excessive lateral runout or thickness vari-
ation, or out of round brake drums. Other causes are
loose wheel bearings or calipers and worn, damaged
tires.
NOTE: Some pedal pulsation may be felt during
ABS activation.
BRAKE DRAG
Brake drag occurs when the lining is in constant
contact with the rotor or drum. Drag can occur at one
wheel, all wheels, fronts only, or rears only.
Drag is a product of incomplete brake shoe release.
Drag can be minor or severe enough to overheat the
linings, rotors and drums.
Minor drag will usually cause slight surface char-
ring of the lining. It can also generate hard spots in
rotors and drums from the overheat-cool down pro-
cess. In most cases, the rotors, drums, wheels and
tires are quite warm to the touch after the vehicle is
stopped.
Severe drag can char the brake lining all the way
through. It can also distort and score rotors and
drums to the point of replacement. The wheels, tires
and brake components will be extremely hot. In
severe cases, the lining may generate smoke as it
chars from overheating.
Common causes of brake drag are:
²Seized or improperly adjusted parking brake
cables.
²Loose/worn wheel bearing.
²Seized caliper or wheel cylinder piston.
²Caliper binding on corroded bushings or rusted
slide surfaces.
²Loose caliper mounting.
²Drum brake shoes binding on worn/damaged
support plates.
²Mis-assembled components.²Long booster output rod.
If brake drag occurs at all wheels, the problem
may be related to a blocked master cylinder return
port, or faulty power booster (binds-does not release).
BRAKE FADE
Brake fade is usually a product of overheating
caused by brake drag. However, brake overheating
and resulting fade can also be caused by riding the
brake pedal, making repeated high deceleration stops
in a short time span, or constant braking on steep
mountain roads. Refer to the Brake Drag information
in this section for causes.
BRAKE PULL
Front brake pull condition could result from:
²Contaminated lining in one caliper
²Seized caliper piston
²Binding caliper
²Loose caliper
²Rusty caliper slide surfaces
²Improper brake shoes
²Damaged rotor
A worn, damaged wheel bearing or suspension
component are further causes of pull. A damaged
front tire (bruised, ply separation) can also cause
pull.
A common and frequently misdiagnosed pull condi-
tion is where direction of pull changes after a few
stops. The cause is a combination of brake drag fol-
lowed by fade at one of the brake units.
As the dragging brake overheats, efficiency is so
reduced that fade occurs. Since the opposite brake
unit is still functioning normally, its braking effect is
magnified. This causes pull to switch direction in
favor of the normally functioning brake unit.
An additional point when diagnosing a change in
pull condition concerns brake cool down. Remember
that pull will return to the original direction, if the
dragging brake unit is allowed to cool down (and is
not seriously damaged).
REAR BRAKE GRAB OR PULL
Rear grab or pull is usually caused by improperly
adjusted or seized parking brake cables, contami-
nated lining, bent or binding shoes and support
plates, or improperly assembled components. This is
particularly true when only one rear wheel is
involved. However, when both rear wheels are
affected, the master cylinder or proportioning valve
could be at fault.
5 - 4 BRAKES - BASEKJ
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

BRAKE LINES
DESCRIPTION
Flexible rubber hose is used at both front brakes
and at the rear axle junction block. Double walled
steel tubing is used to connect the master cylinder to
the major hydraulic braking components and then to
the flexible rubber hoses. Double inverted style and
ISO style flares are used on the brake lines.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - BRAKE LINE AND
HOSES
Flexible rubber hose is used at both front brakes
and at the rear axle junction block. Inspect the hoses
whenever the brake system is serviced, at every
engine oil change, or whenever the vehicle is in for
service.
Inspect the hoses for surface cracking, scuffing, or
worn spots. Replace any brake hose immediately if
the fabric casing of the hose is exposed due to cracks
or abrasions.
Also check brake hose installation. Faulty installa-
tion can result in kinked, twisted hoses, or contact
with the wheels and tires or other chassis compo-
nents. All of these conditions can lead to scuffing,
cracking and eventual failure.
The steel brake lines should be inspected periodi-
cally for evidence of corrosion, twists, kinks, leaks, or
other damage. Heavily corroded lines will eventually
rust through causing leaks. In any case, corroded or
damaged brake lines should be replaced.
Factory replacement brake lines and hoses are rec-
ommended to ensure quality, correct length and supe-
rior fatigue life. Care should be taken to make sure
that brake line and hose mating surfaces are clean
and free from nicks and burrs. Also remember that
right and left brake hoses are not interchangeable.
Use new copper seal washers at all caliper connec-
tions. Be sure brake line connections are properly
made (not cross threaded) and tightened to recom-
mended torque.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - DOUBLE INVERTED
FLARING
A preformed metal brake tube is recommended and
preferred for all repairs. However, double-wall steel
tube can be used for emergency repair when factory
replacement parts are not readily available.
Special bending tools are needed to avoid kinking
or twisting of metal brake tubes. Special flaring tools
are needed to make a double inverted flare or ISO
flare.(1) Cut off damaged tube with Tubing Cutter.
(2) Ream cut edges of tubing to ensure proper
flare.
(3) Install replacement tube nut on the tube.
(4) Insert tube in flaring tool.
(5) Place gauge form over the end of the tube.
(6) Push tubing through flaring tool jaws until
tube contacts recessed notch in gauge that matches
tube diameter.
(7) Tighten the tool bar on the tube
(8) Insert plug on gauge in the tube. Then swing
compression disc over gauge and center tapered flar-
ing screw in recess of compression disc (Fig. 2).
(9) Tighten tool handle until plug gauge is
squarely seated on jaws of flaring tool. This will start
the inverted flare.
(10) Remove the plug gauge and complete the
inverted flare.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ISO FLARING
A preformed metal brake tube is recommended and
preferred for all repairs. However, double-wall steel
tube can be used for emergency repair when factory
replacement parts are not readily available.
Special bending tools are needed to avoid kinking
or twisting of metal brake tubes. Special flaring tools
are needed to make a double inverted flare or ISO
flare.
To make a ISO flare use a ISO brake flaring tool or
equivalent.
(1) Cut off damaged tube with Tubing Cutter.
(2) Remove any burrs from the inside of the tube.
(3) Install tube nut on the tube.
Fig. 2 Inverted
5 - 8 BRAKES - BASEKJ

CLEANING
Clean the caliper components with clean brake
fluid or brake clean only. Wipe the caliper and piston
dry with lint free towels or use low pressure com-
pressed air.
CAUTION: Do not use gasoline, kerosene, thinner,
or similar solvents. These products may leave a
residue that could damage the piston and seal.
INSPECTION
The piston is made from a phenolic resin (plastic
material) and should be smooth and clean.
The piston must be replaced if cracked or scored.
Do not attempt to restore a scored piston surface by
sanding or polishing.
CAUTION: If the caliper piston is replaced, install
the same type of piston in the caliper. Never inter-
change phenolic resin and steel caliper pistons.The pistons, seals, seal grooves, caliper bore and
piston tolerances are different.
The bore can belightlypolished with a brake
hone to remove very minor surface imperfections
(Fig. 22). The caliper should be replaced if the bore is
severely corroded, rusted, scored, or if polishing
would increase bore diameter more than 0.025 mm
(0.001 inch).
ASSEMBLY
CAUTION: Dirt, oil, and solvents can damage cali-
per seals. Insure assembly area is clean and dry.
(1) Lubricate caliper piston bore, new piston seal
and piston with clean brake fluid.
(2) Lubricate caliper bushings and interior of
bushing boots with silicone grease.
(3) Install bushing boots in caliper, then insert
bushing into boot and push bushing into place (Fig.
23).
(4) Install new piston seal into seal groove with
finger (Fig. 24).
(5) Install new dust boot on caliper piston and seat
boot in piston groove (Fig. 25).
(6) Press piston into caliper bore by hand, use a
turn and push motion to work piston into seal (Fig.
26).
(7) Press caliper piston to bottom of bore.
(8) Seat dust boot in caliper with Installer Tool
C-4842 and Tool Handle C-4171 (Fig. 27).
(9) Replace caliper bleed screw if removed.
Fig. 20 PISTON SEAL REMOVAL - TYPICAL
1 - REMOVE SEAL WITH WOOD PENCIL OR SIMILAR TOOL
2 - PISTON SEAL
Fig. 21 MOUNTING BOLT BUSHING AND BOOT -
TYPICAL
1 - CALIPER SLIDE BUSHING
2 - BOOT
Fig. 22 POLISHING PISTON BORE - TYPICAL
1 - SPECIAL HONE
2 - CALIPER
3 - PISTON BORE
5 - 16 BRAKES - BASEKJ
DISC BRAKE CALIPERS (Continued)

ELECTRICAL
DESCRIPTION
Three wheel speed sensors are used. The front sen-
sors are mounted to the steering knuckles. The rear
sensor is mounted at the top of the rear axle differ-
ential carrier. Tone wheels are mounted to the out-
board ends of the front axle shafts. The gear type
tone wheel serves as the trigger mechanism for each
sensor.
OPERATION
The sensors convert wheel speed into a small digi-
tal signal. The CAB sends 12 volts to the sensors.
The sensor has an internal magneto resistance
bridge that alters the voltage and amperage of the
signal circuit. This voltage and amperage is changed
by magnetic induction when the toothed tone wheel
passes the wheel speed sensor. This digital signal is
sent to the CAB. The CAB measures the voltage and
amperage of the digital signal for each wheel.
FRONT WHEEL SPEED
SENSOR
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the front wheel speed sensor wire
connector that is located on the inboard side of the
respective wheel house.
(2) Raise and support the vehicle.
(3) Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
(4) Remove the caliper adapter. (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/DISC
BRAKE CALIPER ADAPTER - REMOVAL).
CAUTION: Never allow the disc brake caliper to
hang from the brake hose. Damage to the brake
hose with result. Provide a suitable support to hang
the caliper securely.
(5) Remove the disc brake rotor. (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/ROTORS -
REMOVAL).
(6) Remove the wheel speed sensor mounting bolt
to the hub (Fig. 1).
(7) Remove the wheel speed sensor wire from the
hub/bearing (Fig. 1).
(8) Remove the wheel speed sensor wire hold down
from the knuckle (Fig. 1).
(9) Remove the wheel speed sensor wire thru the
wheel well.
(10) Remove the wheel speed sensor from the vehi-
cle.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the wheel speed sensor to the vehicle.
(2) Install the wheel speed sensor wire thru the
wheel well.
(3) Install the wheel speed sensor wire to the hub/
bearing.
(4) Install the wheel speed sensor wire hold down
to the knuckle.
(5) Install the wheel speed sensor mounting bolt to
the hub. Tighten the mounting bolt to 14 N´m (10
ft.lbs.).
(6) Install the disc brake rotor (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/ROTORS -
INSTALLATION).
(7) Install the disc brake caliper adapter. (Refer to
5 - BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/DISC
BRAKE CALIPER ADAPTER - INSTALLATION).
(8) Install the tire and wheel assembly (Refer to 22
- TIRES/WHEELS/WHEELS - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE).
(9) Reconnect the front wheel speed sensor wire
connector to the inboard side of the wheel house
being worked on.
Fig. 1 FRONT WHEEL SPEED SENSOR
1 - WHEEL SPEED SENSOR WIRE
2 - WHEEL SPEED SENSOR
3 - ROTOR
4 - WHEEL SPEED SENSOR WIRE HOLD DOWN
5 - 34 BRAKES - ABSKJ

REAR WHEEL SPEED SENSOR
REMOVAL
(1) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(2) Disconnect the sensor wire harness.
(3) Remove mounting stud from the sensor (Fig. 2).
(4) Remove sensor.
INSTALLATION
(1) Connect harness to sensor.Be sure seal is
securely in place between sensor and wiring
connector.
(2) Install O-ring on sensor (if removed).
(3) Insert sensor in differential housing.
(4) Install the sensor mounting stud and tighten to
9 N´m (80 in. lbs.).
(5) Install the sensor electical connector.
(6) Lower vehicle.
HCU (HYDRAULIC CONTROL
UNIT)
DESCRIPTION
The HCU consists of a valve body, pump motor,
and wire harness.
OPERATION
Accumulators in the valve body store extra fluid
released to the system for ABS mode operation. The
pump provides the fluid volume needed and is oper-
ated by a DC type motor. The motor is controlled by
the CAB.The valves modulate brake pressure during
antilock braking and are controlled by the CAB.
The HCU provides three channel pressure control
to the front and rear brakes. One channel controls
the rear wheel brakes in tandem. The two remaining
channels control the front wheel brakes individually.
During antilock braking, the solenoid valves are
opened and closed as needed. The valves are not
static. They are cycled rapidly and continuously to
modulate pressure and control wheel slip and decel-
eration.
During normal braking, the HCU solenoid valves
and pump are not activated. The master cylinder and
power booster operate the same as a vehicle without
an ABS brake system.
During antilock braking, solenoid valve pressure
modulation occurs in three stages, pressure increase,
pressure hold, and pressure decrease. The valves are
all contained in the valve body portion of the HCU.
PRESSURE DECREASE
The outlet valve is opened and the inlet valve is
closed during the pressure decrease cycle.
A pressure decrease cycle is initiated when speed
sensor signals indicate high wheel slip at one or
more wheels. At this point, the CAB closes the inlet
then opens the outlet valve, which also opens the
return circuit to the accumulators. Fluid pressure is
allowed to bleed off (decrease) as needed to prevent
wheel lock.
Once the period of high wheel slip has ended, the
CAB closes the outlet valve and begins a pressure
increase or hold cycle as needed.
PRESSURE HOLD
Both solenoid valves are closed in the pressure
hold cycle. Fluid apply pressure in the control chan-
nel is maintained at a constant rate. The CAB main-
tains the hold cycle until sensor inputs indicate a
pressure change is necessary.
PRESSURE INCREASE
The inlet valve is open and the outlet valve is
closed during the pressure increase cycle. The pres-
sure increase cycle is used to counteract unequal
wheel speeds. This cycle controls re-application of
fluid apply pressure due to changing road surfaces or
wheel speed.
Fig. 2 REAR WHEEL SPEED SENSOR
1 - DIFFERENTIAL HOUSING
2 - MOUNTING BOLT
3 - WHEEL SPEED SENSOR
KJBRAKES - ABS 5 - 35

The cooling system also provides a means of heat-
ing the passenger compartment and cooling the auto-
matic transmission fluid (if equipped). The cooling
system is pressurized and uses a centrifugal water
pump to circulate coolant throughout the system.
OPERATION - HOSE CLAMPS
The spring type hose clamp applies constant ten-
sion on a hose connection. To remove a spring type
hose clamp, only use constant tension clamp pliers
designed to compress the hose clamp.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ON-BOARD
DIAGNOSTICS (OBD)
COOLING SYSTEM RELATED DIAGNOSTICS
The powertrain control module (PCM) has been
programmed to monitor certain cooling system com-
ponents:
²If the engine has remained cool for too long a
period, such as with a stuck open thermostat, a Diag-
nostic Trouble Code (DTC) can be set.
²If an open or shorted condition has developed in
the relay circuit controlling the electric radiator fan,
a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) can be set.
If the problem is sensed in a monitored circuit
often enough to indicated an actual problem, a DTC
is stored. The DTC will be stored in the PCM mem-
ory for eventual display to the service technician.
(Refer to 25 - EMISSIONS CONTROL - DESCRIP-
TION).
ACCESSING DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES
To read DTC's and to obtain cooling system data,
(Refer to 25 - EMISSIONS CONTROL - DESCRIP-
TION).
ERASING TROUBLE CODES
After the problem has been repaired, use the DRB
scan tool to erase a DTC. Refer to the appropriate
Powertrain Diagnostic Procedures service informa-
tion for operation of the DRB scan tool.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - PRELIMINARY
CHECKS
ENGINE COOLING SYSTEM OVERHEATING
Establish what driving conditions caused the com-
plaint. Abnormal loads on the cooling system such as
the following may be the cause:
²PROLONGED IDLE
²VERY HIGH AMBIENT TEMPERATURE
²SLIGHT TAIL WIND AT IDLE
²SLOW TRAFFIC
²TRAFFIC JAMS
²HIGH SPEED
²STEEP GRADES
Driving techniques that avoid overheating are:
²Idle with A/C off when temperature gauge is at
end of normal range.
(1) TRAILER TOWING:
Consult Trailer Towing section of owners manual.
Do not exceed limits.
(2) RECENT SERVICE OR ACCIDENT REPAIR:
Determine if any recent service has been per-
formed on vehicle that may effect cooling system.
This may be:
²Engine adjustments (incorrect timing)
²Slipping engine accessory drive belt(s)
²Brakes (possibly dragging)
²Changed parts. Incorrect water pump, or pump
rotating in wrong direction due to belt not correctly
routed
²Reconditioned radiator or cooling system refill-
ing (possibly under filled or air trapped in system).
NOTE: If investigation reveals none of the previous
items as a cause for an engine overheating com-
plaint, refer to following Cooling System Diagnosis
charts.
These charts are to be used as a quick-reference
only. Refer to the group text for information.
Fig. 2 Spring Clamp Size Location
1 - SPRING CLAMP SIZE LOCATION
KJCOOLING 7 - 3
COOLING (Continued)

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
STEAM IS COMING FROM THE
FRONT OF VEHICLE NEAR THE
GRILL AREA WHEN WEATHER IS
WET, ENGINE IS WARMED UP
AND RUNNING, AND VEHICLE IS
STATIONARY. TEMPERATURE
GAUGE IS IN NORMAL RANGE1. During wet weather, moisture
(snow, ice or rain condensation) on
the radiator will evaporate when the
thermostat opens. This opening
allows heated water into the
radiator. When the moisture
contacts the hot radiator or
condensor, steam may be emitted.
This usually occurs in cold weather
with no fan or airflow to blow it
away.1. Occasional steam emitting from
this area is normal. No repair is
necessary.
COOLANT COLOR 1. Coolant color is not necessarily
an indication of adequate corrosion
or temperature protection. Do not
rely on coolant color for determining
condition of coolant.1. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/
COOLANT - DESCRIPTION) for
coolant concentration information.
Adjust coolant mixture as
necessary.
COOLANT LEVEL CHANGES IN
COOLANT RESERVE/OVERFLOW
TANK. TEMPERATURE GAUGE IS
IN NORMAL RANGE1. Level changes are to be
expected as coolant volume
fluctuates with engine temperature.
If the level in the tank was between
the FULL and ADD marks at normal
operating temperature, the level
should return to within that range
after operation at elevated
temperatures.1. A normal condition. No repair is
necessary.
FAN RUNS ALL THE TIME 1. Fan control sensors inoperative. 1. Check for DTC's. Verify sensor
readings.
2. Fan control solenoid stuck9on9. 2. Check fan operation speeds.
Refer to fan speed operation table.
3. Fan control solenoid harness
damaged.3. Check for DTC 1499. Repair as
required.
4. Transmission temperature too
high.4. Check for transmission over
temp. DTC.
5. Engine coolant temperature too
high.5. (a) Check coolant level. Correct
level as required.
(b) Thermostat stuck. Replace
thermostat.
(c) Water pump failed. Replace
water pump.
(d) Coolant flow restricted. Clean
radiator.
(e) Air flow over radiator
obstructed.Remove obstruction.
KJCOOLING 7 - 11
COOLING (Continued)

(3) Remove the front grill (Refer to 23 - BODY/EX-
TERIOR/GRILLE - REMOVAL).
(4) Remove the cooling fan from the engine, if
equipped.
(5) Remove the two radiator mounting bolts.
(6) Disconnect both transmission cooler lines from
radiator.
(7) Disconnect the connector for the electric fan.
(8) Disconnect the power steering cooler line from
cooler.
(9) Disconnect the radiator upper and lower hoses.
(10) Disconnect the overflow hose from radiator.
(11) The lower part of radiator is equipped with
two alignment dowel pins (Fig. 9). They are located
on the bottom of radiator tank and fit into rubber
grommets. These rubber grommets are pressed into
the radiator lower crossmember.
WARNING: THE AIR CONDITIONING SYSTEM (IF
EQUIPPED) IS UNDER A CONSTANT PRESSURE
EVEN WITH THE ENGINE OFF. REFER TO REFRIG-
ERANT WARNINGS IN, HEATING AND AIR CONDI-
TIONING BEFORE HANDLING ANY AIR
CONDITIONING COMPONENT.
NOTE: The radiator and radiator cooling fan can be
removed as an assembly. It is not necessary toremove the cooling fan before removing or install-
ing the radiator.
(12) Gently lift up and remove radiator from vehi-
cle. Be careful not to scrape the radiator fins against
any other component. Also be careful not to disturb
the air conditioning condenser (if equipped).
CLEANING
Clean radiator fins With the engine cold, apply cold
water and compressed air to the back (engine side) of
the radiator to flush the radiator and/or A/C con-
denser of debris.
INSPECTION
The radiator cooling fins should be checked for
damage or deterioration. Inspect cooling fins to make
sure they are not bent or crushed, these areas result
in reduced heat exchange causing the cooling system
to operate at higher temperatures. Inspect the plastic
end tanks for cracks, damage or leaks.
Inspect the radiator neck for damage or distortion.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: Before installing the radiator or A/C con-
denser, be sure the radiator-to-body and radiator-to-
A/C condenser rubber air seals are properly
fastened to their original positions. These are used
at the top, bottom and sides of the radiator and A/C
condenser. To prevent overheating, these seals
must be installed to their original positions.
(1) Gently lower the radiator and fan shroud into
the vehicle. Guide the two radiator alignment dowels
into the rubber grommets located in lower radiator
crossmember.
(2) Connect the radiator upper and lower hoses
and hose clamps to radiator.
CAUTION: The tangs on the hose clamps must be
positioned straight down.
(3) Install coolant reserve/overflow tank hose at
radiator.
(4) Connect both transmission cooler lines at the
radiator.
(5) Install both radiator mounting bolts.
(6) Reconnect the electric cooling fan.
(7) Install the grill (Refer to 23 - BODY/EXTERI-
OR/GRILLE - INSTALLATION).
(8) Reinstall the cooling fan to the engine.
(9) Rotate the fan blades (by hand) and check for
interference at fan shroud.
(10) Refill cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(11) Connect battery cable at battery.
(12) Start and warm engine. Check for leaks.
Fig. 9 Radiator Alignment Dowels - Typical
1 - RADIATOR
2 - ALIGNMENT DOWEL
3 - RADIATOR LOWER ISOLATOR
4 - RADIATOR LOWER CROSSMEMBER
7 - 24 ENGINEKJ
RADIATOR (Continued)