(10) Start the engine and re-check for vibration. If
there is little or no change in vibration, move the
clamp to one of the other three positions. Repeat the
vibration test.
(11) If there is no difference in vibration at the
other positions, the source of the vibration may not
be propeller shaft.
(12) If the vibration decreased, install a second
clamp (Fig. 2) and repeat the test.
(13) If the additional clamp causes an additional
vibration, separate the clamps (1/4 inch above and
below the mark). Repeat the vibration test (Fig. 3).
(14) Increase distance between the clamp screws
and repeat the test until the amount of vibration is
at the lowest level. Bend the slack end of the clamps
so the screws will not loosen.
(15) If the vibration remains unacceptable, apply
the same steps to the front end of the propeller shaft.
(16) Install the wheel and tires. Lower the vehicle.RUNOUT
(1) Remove dirt, rust, paint and undercoating from
the propeller shaft surface where the dial indicator
will contact the shaft.
(2) The dial indicator must be installed perpendic-
ular to the shaft surface.
(3) Measure runout at the center and ends of the
shaft sufficiently far away from weld areas to ensure
that the effects of the weld process will not enter into
the measurements.
(4) Refer to Runout Specifications chart.
(5) If the propeller shaft runout is out of specifica-
tion, remove the propeller shaft, index the shaft 180É,
and re-install the propeller shaft. Measure shaft
runout again.
(6) If the propeller shaft runout is now within
specifications, mark the shaft and yokes for proper
orientation.
(7) If the propeller shaft runout is not within spec-
ifications, verify that the runout of the transmission/
transfer case and axle are within specifications.
Correct as necessary and re-measure propeller shaft
runout.
(8) Replace the propeller shaft if the runout still
exceeds the limits.
RUNOUT SPECIFICATIONS
Front of Shaft 0.020 in. (0.50 mm)
Center of Shaft 0.025 in. (0.63 mm)
Rear of Shaft 0.020 in. (0.50 mm)
note:
Measure front/rear runout approximately 3 inches (76
mm) from the weld seam at each end of the shaft
tube for tube lengths over 30 inches. For tube lengths
under 30 inches, the maximum allowed runout is
0.020 in. (0.50 mm) for the full length of the tube.
STANDARD PROCEDURES - PROPELLER
SHAFT ANGLE
The procedure applies to both the front propeller
shafts and the rear propeller shaft. To obtain the
front (output) angle on the C/V front propeller shaft,
the inclinometer is placed on the machined ring of
the pinion flange. To obtain the propeller shaft angle
measurement on the C/V front propeller shaft, the
inclinometer is placed on the propeller shaft tube.
(1) Raise and support the vehicle at the axles as
level as possible. Allow the wheels and propeller
shaft to turn.
(2) Remove any external bearing snap rings from
universal joint if equipped, so the inclinometer base
will sits flat.
Fig. 2 TWO CLAMPS AT SAME POSITION
Fig. 3 CLAMPS SEPARATED
1 - ó INCH
KJPROPELLER SHAFT 3 - 3
PROPELLER SHAFT (Continued)
(3) Rotate the shaft until transmission/transfer
case output yoke bearing cap is facing downward, if
necessary.
NOTE: Always make measurements from front to
rear.
(4) Place Inclinometer on yoke bearing cap, or the
pinion flange ring, (A) parallel to the shaft (Fig. 4).
Center bubble in sight glass and record measure-
ment.
NOTE: This measurement will give you the trans-
mission or Output Yoke Angle (A).
(5) Rotate propeller shaft 90 degrees and place
Inclinometer on yoke bearing cap, or propeller shaft
tube on C/V propeller shaft, parallel to the shaft (Fig.
5). Center bubble in sight glass and record measure-
ment. This measurement can also be taken at the
rear end of the shaft.
NOTE: This measurement will give you the propeller
shaft angle (C).
(6) Subtract smaller figure from larger (C minus
A) to obtain transmission output operating angle.
(7) Rotate propeller shaft 90 degrees and place
Inclinometer on pinion yoke bearing cap parallel to
the shaft (Fig. 6). Center bubble in sight glass and
record measurement.NOTE: This measurement will give you the pinion
shaft or input yoke angle (B).
Fig. 4 OUTPUT YOKE ANGLE (A)
1 - SLIP YOKE BEARING CAP
2 - INCLINOMETER
Fig. 5 PROPELLER SHAFT ANGLE (C)
1 - SHAFT YOKE BEARING CAP
2 - INCLINOMETER
Fig. 6 INPUT YOKE ANGLE (B)
1 - PINION YOKE BEARING CAP
2 - INCLINOMETER
3 - 4 PROPELLER SHAFTKJ
PROPELLER SHAFT (Continued)
SPECIFICATIONS
PROPELLER SHAFT
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
DESCRIPTION N´m Ft. Lbs. In. Lbs.
Front Shaft - Companion
Flange Bolts30 22 -
Rear Shaft - Yoke Nuts 18 13 -
SPECIAL TOOLS
PROPELLER SHAFT - FRONT
REMOVAL
(1) Shift transmission and transfer case into Neu-
tral.
(2) Raise and support the vehicle.
(3) Mark companion flanges and C/V joints at the
front and rear of the propeller shaft for installation
reference.
(4) Remove bolts from the front and rear C/V
joints.
(5) Push propeller shaft forward to clear transfer
case companion flange (Fig. 8).
(6) Remove the shaft from the front axle compan-
ion flange.
(7) Tilt the front of the shaft down and pull shaft
forward and remove from the vehicle.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install propeller shaft between companion
flanges.
(2) Align marks on the companion flanges with the
marks on the C/V joints.
(3) Install front C/V joint bolts and tighten to 30
N´m (22 ft. lbs.).
(4) Install rear C/V joint bolts and tighten to 30
N´m (22 ft. lbs.).
(5) Lower vehicle.
Inclinometer 7663
Fig. 8 TRANSFER CASE COMPANION FLANGE
1 - FLANGE BOLT
2 - COMPANION FLANGE
3 - 6 PROPELLER SHAFTKJ
PROPELLER SHAFT (Continued)
PROPELLER SHAFT - REAR
REMOVAL
(1) Shift the transmission/transfer case into Neu-
tral.
(2) Raise and support vehicle.
(3) Mark a reference line across the pinion yoke
and propeller shaft for installation.
(4) Remove U-joint strap bolts at the pinion shaft
yoke.
(5) Pry open clamp holding the dust boot to propel-
ler shaft yoke (Fig. 9), if equipped.
(6) Slide slip yoke off of the transmission/transfer
case output shaft and remove the propeller shaft
(Fig. 10).
INSTALLATION
(1) Slide slip yoke on the transmission/transfer
case output shaft.
(2) Align reference marks on the pinion yoke and
propeller shaft.
(3) Install U-joint straps and tighten strap bolts to
18 N´m (13 ft. lbs.).
(4) Tighten dust boot clamp if equipped with
Clamp C-4975A (Fig. 11).
(5) Remove support and lower the vehicle.
Fig. 9 DUST BOOT CLAMP
1 - SLINGER
2 - BOOT
3-AWL
4 - TRANSFER CASE
Fig. 10 REAR PROPELLER SHAFT
1 - CLAMP
2 - YOKE
3 - PROPELLER SHAFT
4 - AXLE YOKE
5 - CLAMP
6 - OUTPUT SHAFT
7 - BOOT
Fig. 11 CRIMPING BOOT CLAMP
1 - CLAMP TOOL
2 - SLINGER
3 - BOOT
4 - CLAMPS
KJPROPELLER SHAFT 3 - 7
HALF SHAFT
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
HALF SHAFT
CAUTION.............................10
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HALF SHAFT....10
REMOVAL.............................10
INSTALLATION.........................11
SPECIFICATIONS
HALF SHAFT.........................11SPECIAL TOOLS.......................12
CV JOINT/BOOT-OUTER
REMOVAL.............................12
INSTALLATION.........................13
CV JOINT/BOOT-INNER
REMOVAL.............................15
INSTALLATION.........................17
HALF SHAFT
CAUTION
CAUTION:: Never grasp half shaft assembly by the
boots. This may cause the boot to pucker or crease
and reduce the service life of the boot.
Avoid over angulating or stroking the C/V joints
when handling the half shaft.
Half shafts exposed to battery acid, transmission
fluid, brake fluid, differential fluid or gasoline may
cause the boots to deteriorate.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HALF SHAFT
Check for grease at the inboard and outboard C/V
joint. This is a sign of boot or boot clamp damage.
NOISE AND/OR VIBRATION IN TURNS
A clicking noise or a vibration in turns could be
caused by a damaged outer C/V or inner tripod joint
seal boot or seal boot clamps. This will result in the
loss/contamination of the joint grease, resulting in
inadequate lubrication of the joint. Noise could also
be caused by another component of the vehicle com-
ing in contact with the half shafts.
CLUNKING NOISE DURING ACCELERATION
This noise may be a result of a damaged or worn
C/V joint. A torn boot or loose/missing clamp on the
inner/outer joint which has allowed the grease to be
lost will damage the C/V joint.
SHUDDER OR VIBRATION DURING ACCELERATION
This problem could be a result of a worn/damaged
inner tripod joint or a sticking tripod joint. Improper
wheel alignment may also cause a shudder or vibration.
VIBRATION AT HIGHWAY SPEEDS
This problem could be a result of out of balance
front tires or tire/wheel runout. Foreign material
(mud, etc.) packed on the backside of the wheel(s)
will also cause a vibration.
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support vehicle.
(2) Remove wheel and tire assembly.
(3) Remove half shaft hub nut.
(4) Remove stabilizer link (Fig. 1).
Fig. 1 STABILIZER BAR LINK
1 - STABILIZER BAR
2 - STABILIZER BAR LINK
3 - 10 HALF SHAFTKJ
When turning corners, the outside wheel must
travel a greater distance than the inside wheel to
complete a turn. The difference must be compensated
for to prevent the tires from scuffing and skidding
through turns. To accomplish this, the differential
allows the axle shafts to turn at unequal speeds (Fig.
2). In this instance, the input torque applied to the
pinion gears is not divided equally. The pinion gears
now rotate around the pinion mate shaft in opposite
directions. This allows the side gear and axle shaft
attached to the outside wheel to rotate at a faster
speed.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - AXLE
GEAR NOISE
Axle gear noise can be caused by insufficient lubri-
cant, incorrect backlash, tooth contact, worn/damaged
gears or the carrier housing not having the proper
offset and squareness.
Gear noise usually happens at a specific speed
range. The noise can also occur during a specific type
of driving condition. These conditions are accelera-
tion, deceleration, coast, or constant load.
When road testing, first warm-up the axle fluid by
driving the vehicle at least 5 miles and then acceler-
ate the vehicle to the speed range where the noise is
the greatest. Shift out-of-gear and coast through the
peak-noise range. If the noise stops or changes
greatly:
²Check for insufficient lubricant.
²Incorrect ring gear backlash.
²Gear damage.
Differential side gears and pinions can be checked
by turning the vehicle. They usually do not cause
noise during straight-ahead driving when the gears
are unloaded. The side gears are loaded during vehi-cle turns. A worn pinion mate shaft can also cause a
snapping or a knocking noise.
BEARING NOISE
The axle shaft, differential and pinion bearings can
all produce noise when worn or damaged. Bearing
noise can be either a whining, or a growling sound.
Pinion bearings have a constant-pitch noise. This
noise changes only with vehicle speed. Pinion bearing
noise will be higher pitched because it rotates at a
faster rate. Drive the vehicle and load the differen-
tial. If bearing noise occurs, the rear pinion bearing
is the source of the noise. If the bearing noise is
heard during a coast, the front pinion bearing is the
source.
Worn or damaged differential bearings usually pro-
duce a low pitch noise. Differential bearing noise is
similar to pinion bearing noise. The pitch of differen-
tial bearing noise is also constant and varies only
with vehicle speed.
Axle shaft bearings produce noise and vibration
when worn or damaged. The noise generally changes
when the bearings are loaded. Road test the vehicle.
Turn the vehicle sharply to the left and to the right.
This will load the bearings and change the noise
level. Where axle bearing damage is slight, the noise
is usually not noticeable at speeds above 30 mph.
LOW SPEED KNOCK
Low speed knock is generally caused by a worn
U-joint or by worn side-gear thrust washers. A worn
pinion shaft bore will also cause low speed knock.
VIBRATION
Vibration at the rear of the vehicle is usually
caused by:
²Damaged drive shaft.
²Missing drive shaft balance weight(s).
²Worn or out of balance wheels.
²Loose wheel lug nuts.
²Worn U-joint(s).
²Loose/broken springs.
²Damaged axle shaft bearing(s).
²Loose pinion gear nut.
²Excessive pinion yoke run out.
²Bent axle shaft(s).
Check for loose or damaged front end components
or engine/transmission mounts. These components
can contribute to what appears to be a rear end
vibration. Do not overlook engine accessories, brack-
ets and drive belts.
All driveline components should be examined
before starting any repair.
Fig. 2 DIFFERENTIAL-ON TURNS
1 - PINION GEARS ROTATE ON PINION SHAFT
3 - 20 FRONT AXLE - 186FIAKJ
FRONT AXLE - 186FIA (Continued)
DRIVELINE SNAP
A snap or clunk noise when the vehicle is shifted
into gear (or the clutch engaged) can be caused by:
²High engine idle speed.
²Transmission shift operation.
²Loose engine/transmission/transfer case mounts.
²Worn U-joints.
²Loose spring mounts.
²Loose pinion gear nut and yoke.²Excessive ring gear backlash.
²Excessive side gear to case clearance.
The source of a snap or a clunk noise can be deter-
mined with the assistance of a helper. Raise the vehi-
cle on a hoist with the wheels free to rotate. Instruct
the helper to shift the transmission into gear. Listen
for the noise, a mechanics stethoscope is helpful in
isolating the source of a noise.
DIAGNOSTIC CHART
Condition Possible Causes Correction
Wheel Noise 1. Wheel loose. 1. Tighten loose nuts.
2. Faulty, brinelled wheel bearing. 2. Replace bearing.
Axle Shaft Noise 1. Misaligned axle tube. 1. Inspect axle tube alignment.
Correct as necessary.
2. Bent or sprung axle shaft. 2. Inspect and correct as necessary.
3. End-play in pinion bearings. 3. Refer to pinion pre-load
information and correct as
necessary.
4. Excessive gear backlash
between the ring gear and pinion.4. Check adjustment of the ring
gear and pinion backlash. Correct
as necessary.
5. Improper adjustment of pinion
gear bearings.5. Adjust the pinion bearings
pre-load.
6. Loose pinion yoke nut. 6. Tighten the pinion yoke nut.
7. Scuffed gear tooth contact
surfaces.7. Inspect and replace as
necessary.
Axle Shaft Broke 1. Misaligned axle tube. 1. Replace the broken shaft after
correcting tube mis-alignment.
2 Vehicle overloaded. 2. Replace broken shaft and avoid
excessive weight on vehicle.
3. Erratic clutch operation. 3. Replace broken shaft and avoid
or correct erratic clutch operation.
4. Grabbing clutch. 4. Replace broken shaft and inspect
and repair clutch as necessary.
KJFRONT AXLE - 186FIA 3 - 21
FRONT AXLE - 186FIA (Continued)
AXLE SHAFTS
REMOVAL
(1) Place the transmission in Neutral.
(2) Raise and support vehicle.
(3) Remove right wheel and tire and assembly.
(4) Remove right half shaft from vehicle.
(5) Remove snap ring from axle shaft.
(6) Assemble Remover 8420A onto the shaft (Fig.
25). Thread slid hammer into remover and remove
shaft.
(7) Slide axle shaft out of the axle tube.
NOTE: Use care to prevent damage to axle shaft
bearing and seal, which will remain in axle shaft
tube.
INSTALLATION
(1) Lubricate bearing bore and seal lip with gear
lubricant. Insert axle shaft through seal, bearing
(Fig. 26) and engage it into side gear splines.
NOTE: Use care to prevent shaft splines from dam-
aging axle shaft seal.
(2) Push on the axle shaft until the axle shaft
snap-ring passes through the side gear.
(3) Install right half shaft.
(4) Install right wheel and tire assembly.
(5) Check differential fluid level.
(6) Lower vehicle.
AXLE SHAFT SEALS
REMOVAL
(1) Remove half shaft.
(2) Remove axle shaft for right side seal removal.
(3) Remove shaft seal with Remover 7794-A and a
slide hammer (Fig. 27).
Fig. 25 AXLE SHAFT PULLER
1 - SNAP RING GROVE
2 - SLID HAMMER THREADS
3 - REMOVER BLOCKS
4 - REMOVER COLLAR
Fig. 26 AXLE SHAFT SEAL
1 - BEARING
2 - SEAL
Fig. 27 SHAFT SEAL REMOVER
1 - SHAFT SEAL
2 - REMOVER
KJFRONT AXLE - 186FIA 3 - 37