2002 JEEP LIBERTY Front light

(8) Fill differential with gear lubricant.
(9) Install the brake drums
(10) Install wheel and tire assemblies.
(11) Lower the vehicle.
COLLAPSIBLE SPACER
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove wheel and tire assemblies.
(3) Remove rear brake drums.
(4) Mark the propeller shaft and pinion yoke for
installation reference.
(5) Remove the propeller shaft from the yoke.
(6) Rotate the pinion gear three or four times.
(7) Measure and record torque to rotate the pinion
gear with an inch pound dial-type torque wrench.
(8) Hold pinion yoke with Spanner Wrench 6958
and remove pinion nut and washer.
(9) Remove the pinion yoke with Remover C-452
and Flange Wrench C-3281 (Fig. 38).
(10) Remove pinion shaft seal with a pry tool or a
slide hammer mounted screw.
(11) Remove front pinion bearing using a pair of
pick tools. Pull the bearing straight off the pinion
gear shaft. If the bearing becomes bound on the pin-
ion shaft, lightly tap the end of the pinion gear with
a rawhide/rubber hammer.
(12) Remove the collapsible spacer.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install anewcollapsible preload spacer on pin-
ion shaft.
(2) Install pinion front bearing.(3) Apply a light coating of gear lubricant on the
lip of pinion seal and install anewseal with an
appropriate installer (Fig. 39).
(4) Install yoke with Screw 8112, Cup 8109 and
Spanner Wrench 6958 (Fig. 40).
(5) Install yoke washer andnewnut on the pinion
gear. Tighten the nut to 271 N´m (200 ft. lbs.).
CAUTION: Never loosen pinion gear nut to decrease
pinion gear bearing rotating torque and never
exceed specified preload torque. If preload torque
or rotating torque is exceeded a new collapsible
spacer must be installed.
Fig. 38 PINION YOKE
1 - FLANGE WRENCH
2 - YOKE
3 - REMOVER
Fig. 39 PINION SEAL
1 - HANDLE
2 - INSTALLER
Fig. 40 PINION YOKE INSTALLER
1 - INSTALLER
2 - PINION YOKE
3 - WRENCH
3 - 70 REAR AXLE - 198RBIKJ
PINION SEAL (Continued)

traction. Pulling power is provided continuously until
both wheels loose traction. If both wheels slip due to
unequal traction, Trac-lokŸ operation is normal. In
extreme cases of differences of traction, the wheel
with the least traction may spin.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - AXLE
GEAR NOISE
Axle gear noise can be caused by insufficient lubri-
cant, incorrect backlash, incorrect pinion depth, tooth
contact, worn/damaged gears, or the carrier housing
not having the proper offset and squareness.
Gear noise usually happens at a specific speed
range. The noise can also occur during a specific type
of driving condition. These conditions are accelera-
tion, deceleration, coast, or constant load.
When road testing, first warm-up the axle fluid by
driving the vehicle at least 5 miles and then acceler-
ate the vehicle to the speed range where the noise is
the greatest. Shift out-of-gear and coast through the
peak-noise range. If the noise stops or changes
greatly:
²Check for insufficient lubricant.
²Incorrect ring gear backlash.
²Gear damage.
Differential side gears and pinions can be checked
by turning the vehicle. They usually do not cause
noise during straight-ahead driving when the gears
are unloaded. The side gears are loaded during vehi-
cle turns. A worn pinion shaft can also cause a snap-
ping or a knocking noise.
BEARING NOISE
The axle shaft, differential and pinion bearings can
all produce noise when worn or damaged. Bearing
noise can be either a whining, or a growling sound.
Pinion bearings have a constant-pitch noise. This
noise changes only with vehicle speed. Pinion bearing
noise will be higher pitched because it rotates at a
faster rate. Drive the vehicle and load the differen-
tial. If bearing noise occurs, the rear pinion bearing
is the source of the noise. If the bearing noise is
heard during a coast, the front pinion bearing is the
source.
Worn or damaged differential bearings usually pro-
duce a low pitch noise. Differential bearing noise is
similar to pinion bearing noise. The pitch of differen-
tial bearing noise is also constant and varies only
with vehicle speed.
Axle shaft bearings produce noise and vibration
when worn or damaged. The noise generally changeswhen the bearings are loaded. Road test the vehicle.
Turn the vehicle sharply to the left and to the right.
This will load the bearings and change the noise
level. Where axle bearing damage is slight, the noise
is usually not noticeable at speeds above 30 mph.
LOW SPEED KNOCK
Low speed knock is generally caused by a worn
U-joint or by worn side±gear thrust washers. A worn
pinion shaft bore will also cause low speed knock.
VIBRATION
Vibration at the rear of the vehicle is usually
caused by a:
²Damaged drive shaft.
²Missing drive shaft balance weight(s).
²Worn or out-of-balance wheels.
²Loose wheel lug nuts.
²Worn U-joint(s).
²Loose/broken springs.
²Damaged axle shaft bearing(s).
²Loose pinion gear nut.
²Excessive pinion yoke run out.
²Bent axle shaft(s).
Check for loose or damaged front-end components
or engine/transmission mounts. These components
can contribute to what appears to be a rearend vibra-
tion. Do not overlook engine accessories, brackets
and drive belts.
NOTE: All driveline components should be exam-
ined before starting any repair.
DRIVELINE SNAP
A snap or clunk noise when the vehicle is shifted
into gear (or the clutch engaged), can be caused by:
²High engine idle speed.
²Transmission shift operation.
²Loose engine/transmission/transfer case mounts.
²Worn U-joints.
²Loose spring mounts.
²Loose pinion gear nut and yoke.
²Excessive ring gear backlash.
²Excessive side gear to case clearance.
The source of a snap or a clunk noise can be deter-
mined with the assistance of a helper. Raise the vehi-
cle on a hoist with the wheels free to rotate. Instruct
the helper to shift the transmission into gear. Listen
for the noise, a mechanics stethoscope is helpful in
isolating the source of a noise.
3 - 88 REAR AXLE-81/4KJ
REAR AXLE - 8 1/4 (Continued)

(4) Install pinion front bearing and oil slinger, if
equipped.(5) Apply a light coating of gear lubricant on the
lip of pinion seal and install seal with Installer
C-4076-B and Handle C-4735 (Fig. 56).
(6) Place proper thickness depth shim on the pin-
ion.
(7) Install rear bearing and slinger if equipped, on
the pinion shaft (Fig. 57) with Installer 6448 and a
press.
(8) Install anewcollapsible preload spacer on pin-
ion shaft and install pinion in housing (Fig. 58).
(9) Install pinion in housing.
(10) Install yoke with Installer C-3718 and Yoke
Holder 6719A.
Fig. 53 Rear Pinion Bearing Puller
1 - PULLER
2 - VISE
3 - ADAPTERS
4 - PINION GEAR SHAFT
Fig. 54 Rear Pinion Bearing Cup
1 - INSTALLER
2 - HANDLE
Fig. 55 Front Bearing Cup
1 - INSTALLER
2 - HANDLE
Fig. 56 Pinion Seal
1 - HANDLE
2 - DIFFERENTIAL HOUSING
3 - INSTALLER
KJREAR AXLE - 8 1/4 3 - 113
PINION GEAR/RING GEAR/TONE RING (Continued)

SPONGY PEDAL
A spongy pedal is most often caused by air in the
system. However, thin brake drums or substandard
brake lines and hoses can also cause a spongy pedal.
The proper course of action is to bleed the system,
and replace thin drums and substandard quality
brake hoses if suspected.
HARD PEDAL OR HIGH PEDAL EFFORT
A hard pedal or high pedal effort may be due to
lining that is water soaked, contaminated, glazed, or
badly worn. The power booster or check valve could
also be faulty.
PEDAL PULSATION
Pedal pulsation is caused by components that are
loose, or beyond tolerance limits.
The primary cause of pulsation are disc brake
rotors with excessive lateral runout or thickness vari-
ation, or out of round brake drums. Other causes are
loose wheel bearings or calipers and worn, damaged
tires.
NOTE: Some pedal pulsation may be felt during
ABS activation.
BRAKE DRAG
Brake drag occurs when the lining is in constant
contact with the rotor or drum. Drag can occur at one
wheel, all wheels, fronts only, or rears only.
Drag is a product of incomplete brake shoe release.
Drag can be minor or severe enough to overheat the
linings, rotors and drums.
Minor drag will usually cause slight surface char-
ring of the lining. It can also generate hard spots in
rotors and drums from the overheat-cool down pro-
cess. In most cases, the rotors, drums, wheels and
tires are quite warm to the touch after the vehicle is
stopped.
Severe drag can char the brake lining all the way
through. It can also distort and score rotors and
drums to the point of replacement. The wheels, tires
and brake components will be extremely hot. In
severe cases, the lining may generate smoke as it
chars from overheating.
Common causes of brake drag are:
²Seized or improperly adjusted parking brake
cables.
²Loose/worn wheel bearing.
²Seized caliper or wheel cylinder piston.
²Caliper binding on corroded bushings or rusted
slide surfaces.
²Loose caliper mounting.
²Drum brake shoes binding on worn/damaged
support plates.
²Mis-assembled components.²Long booster output rod.
If brake drag occurs at all wheels, the problem
may be related to a blocked master cylinder return
port, or faulty power booster (binds-does not release).
BRAKE FADE
Brake fade is usually a product of overheating
caused by brake drag. However, brake overheating
and resulting fade can also be caused by riding the
brake pedal, making repeated high deceleration stops
in a short time span, or constant braking on steep
mountain roads. Refer to the Brake Drag information
in this section for causes.
BRAKE PULL
Front brake pull condition could result from:
²Contaminated lining in one caliper
²Seized caliper piston
²Binding caliper
²Loose caliper
²Rusty caliper slide surfaces
²Improper brake shoes
²Damaged rotor
A worn, damaged wheel bearing or suspension
component are further causes of pull. A damaged
front tire (bruised, ply separation) can also cause
pull.
A common and frequently misdiagnosed pull condi-
tion is where direction of pull changes after a few
stops. The cause is a combination of brake drag fol-
lowed by fade at one of the brake units.
As the dragging brake overheats, efficiency is so
reduced that fade occurs. Since the opposite brake
unit is still functioning normally, its braking effect is
magnified. This causes pull to switch direction in
favor of the normally functioning brake unit.
An additional point when diagnosing a change in
pull condition concerns brake cool down. Remember
that pull will return to the original direction, if the
dragging brake unit is allowed to cool down (and is
not seriously damaged).
REAR BRAKE GRAB OR PULL
Rear grab or pull is usually caused by improperly
adjusted or seized parking brake cables, contami-
nated lining, bent or binding shoes and support
plates, or improperly assembled components. This is
particularly true when only one rear wheel is
involved. However, when both rear wheels are
affected, the master cylinder or proportioning valve
could be at fault.
5 - 4 BRAKES - BASEKJ
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

BRAKES DO NOT HOLD AFTER DRIVING THROUGH DEEP
WATER PUDDLES
This condition is generally caused by water soaked
lining. If the lining is only wet, it can be dried by
driving with the brakes very lightly applied for a
mile or two. However, if the lining is both soaked and
dirt contaminated, cleaning and/or replacement will
be necessary.
BRAKE LINING CONTAMINATION
Brake lining contamination is mostly a product of
leaking calipers or wheel cylinders, worn seals, driv-
ing through deep water puddles, or lining that has
become covered with grease and grit during repair.
Contaminated lining should be replaced to avoid fur-
ther brake problems.
WHEEL AND TIRE PROBLEMS
Some conditions attributed to brake components
may actually be caused by a wheel or tire problem.
A damaged wheel can cause shudder, vibration and
pull. A worn or damaged tire can also cause pull.
Severely worn tires with very little tread left can
produce a grab-like condition as the tire loses and
recovers traction. Flat-spotted tires can cause vibra-
tion and generate shudder during brake operation. A
tire with internal damage such as a severe bruise,
cut, or ply separation can cause pull and vibration.
BRAKE NOISES
Some brake noise is common with rear drum
brakes and on some disc brakes during the first few
stops after a vehicle has been parked overnight or
stored. This is primarily due to the formation of trace
corrosion (light rust) on metal surfaces. This light
corrosion is typically cleared from the metal surfaces
after a few brake applications causing the noise to
subside.
BRAKE SQUEAK/SQUEAL
Brake squeak or squeal may be due to linings that
are wet or contaminated with brake fluid, grease, or
oil. Glazed linings and rotors with hard spots can
also contribute to squeak. Dirt and foreign material
embedded in the brake lining will also cause squeak/
squeal.
A very loud squeak or squeal is frequently a sign of
severely worn brake lining. If the lining has worn
through to the brake shoes in spots, metal-to-metal
contact occurs. If the condition is allowed to continue,
rotors and drums can become so scored that replace-
ment is necessary.
BRAKE CHATTER
Brake chatter is usually caused by loose or worn
components, or glazed/burnt lining. Rotors with hard
spots can also contribute to chatter. Additional causesof chatter are out-of-tolerance rotors, brake lining not
securely attached to the shoes, loose wheel bearings
and contaminated brake lining.
THUMP/CLUNK NOISE
Thumping or clunk noises during braking are fre-
quentlynotcaused by brake components. In many
cases, such noises are caused by loose or damaged
steering, suspension, or engine components. However,
calipers that bind on the slide surfaces can generate
a thump or clunk noise. In addition, worn out,
improperly adjusted, or improperly assembled rear
brake shoes can also produce a thump noise.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - PRESSURE
BLEEDING
Use Mopar brake fluid, or an equivalent quality
fluid meeting SAE J1703-F and DOT 3 standards
only. Use fresh, clean fluid from a sealed container at
all times.
Do not pump the brake pedal at any time while
bleeding. Air in the system will be compressed into
small bubbles that are distributed throughout the
hydraulic system. This will make additional bleeding
operations necessary.
Do not allow the master cylinder to run out of fluid
during bleed operations. An empty cylinder will allow
additional air to be drawn into the system. Check the
cylinder fluid level frequently and add fluid as
needed.
Bleed only one brake component at a time in the
following sequence:
²Master Cylinder
²Combination Valve
²Right Rear Wheel
²Left Rear Wheel
²Right Front Wheel
²Left Front Wheel
Follow the manufacturers instructions carefully
when using pressure equipment. Do not exceed the
tank manufacturers pressure recommendations. Gen-
erally, a tank pressure of 15-20 psi is sufficient for
bleeding.
Fill the bleeder tank with recommended fluid and
purge air from the tank lines before bleeding.
Do not pressure bleed without a proper master cyl-
inder adapter. The wrong adapter can lead to leak-
age, or drawing air back into the system. Use
adapter provided with the equipment or Adapter
6921.
KJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 5
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

NOTE: Bring vehicle to complete standstill at each
stop. Incomplete, rolling stops will not activate
automatic adjusters.
ADJUSTMENT WITH ADJUSTING TOOL
(1) Be sure parking brake lever is fully released.
(2) Raise vehicle so rear wheels can be rotated
freely.
(3) Remove plug from each access hole in brake
support plates.
(4) Loosen parking brake cable adjustment nut
until there is slack in front cable.
(5) Insert adjusting tool through support plate
access hole and engage tool in teeth of adjusting
screw star wheel (Fig. 13).(6) Rotate adjuster screw star wheel (move tool
handle upward) until slight drag can be felt when
wheel is rotated.
(7) Push and hold adjuster lever away from star
wheel with thin screwdriver.
(8) Back off adjuster screw star wheel until brake
drag is eliminated.
(9) Repeat adjustment at opposite wheel. Be sure
adjustment is equal at both wheels.
(10) Install support plate access hole plugs.
(11) Adjust parking brake cable and lower vehicle.
(12) Drive vehicle and make one forward stop fol-
lowed by one reverse stop. Repeat procedure 8-10
times to operate automatic adjusters and equalize
adjustment.
NOTE: Bring vehicle to complete standstill at each
stop. Incomplete, rolling stops will not activate
automatic adjusters.DISC BRAKE CALIPERS
DESCRIPTION
The calipers are a single piston type. The calipers
are free to slide laterally, this allows continuous com-
pensation for lining wear.
Fig. 11 ADJUSTING GAUGE ON DRUM
1 - BRAKE GAUGE
2 - BRAKE DRUM
Fig. 12 ADJUSTING GAUGE ON BRAKE SHOES
1 - BRAKE GAUGE
2 - BRAKE SHOES
Fig. 13 Brake Adjustment
1 - STAR WHEEL
2 - LEVER
3 - BRAKE SHOE WEB
4 - SCREWDRIVER
5 - ADJUSTING TOOL
6 - ADJUSTER SPRING
KJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 13
BRAKE PADS / SHOES (Continued)

OPERATION
When the brakes are applied fluid pressure is
exerted against the caliper piston. The fluid pressure
is exerted equally and in all directions. This means
pressure exerted against the caliper piston and
within the caliper bore will be equal (Fig. 14).
Fluid pressure applied to the piston is transmitted
directly to the inboard brake shoe. This forces the
shoe lining against the inner surface of the disc
brake rotor. At the same time, fluid pressure within
the piston bore forces the caliper to slide inward on
the mounting bolts. This action brings the outboard
brake shoe lining into contact with the outer surface
of the disc brake rotor.
In summary, fluid pressure acting simultaneously
on both piston and caliper, produces a strong clamp-
ing action. When sufficient force is applied, friction
will attempt to stop the rotors from turning and
bring the vehicle to a stop.
Application and release of the brake pedal gener-
ates only a very slight movement of the caliper and
piston. Upon release of the pedal, the caliper and pis-
ton return to a rest position. The brake shoes do not
retract an appreciable distance from the rotor. In
fact, clearance is usually at, or close to zero. The rea-
sons for this are to keep road debris from gettingbetween the rotor and lining and in wiping the rotor
surface clear each revolution.
The caliper piston seal controls the amount of pis-
ton extension needed to compensate for normal lining
wear.
During brake application, the seal is deflected out-
ward by fluid pressure and piston movement (Fig.
15). When the brakes (and fluid pressure) are
released, the seal relaxes and retracts the piston.
The amount of piston retraction is determined by
the amount of seal deflection. Generally the amount
is just enough to maintain contact between the pis-
ton and inboard brake shoe.
REMOVAL
(1) Install prop rod on the brake pedal to keep
pressure on the brake system.
(2) Raise and support vehicle.
(3) Remove front wheel and tire assembly.
(4) Drain small amount of fluid from master cylin-
der brake reservoir with suction gun.
(5) Remove the brake hose banjo bolt if replacing
caliper (Fig. 16).
(6) Remove the caliper mounting slide pin bolts
(Fig. 16).
(7) Remove the caliper from vehicle.
DISASSEMBLY
(1) Remove brake shoes from caliper.
(2) Drain brake fluid out of caliper.
(3) Take a piece of wood and pad it with one-inch
thickness of shop towels. Place this piece in the out-
board shoe side of the caliper in front of the piston.
This will cushion and protect caliper piston during
removal (Fig. 17).
Fig. 14 Brake Caliper Operation
1 - CALIPER
2 - PISTON
3 - PISTON BORE
4 - SEAL
5 - INBOARD SHOE
6 - OUTBOARD SHOE
Fig. 15 Lining Wear Compensation By Piston Seal
1 - PISTON
2 - CYLINDER BORE
3 - PISTON SEAL BRAKE PRESSURE OFF
4 - CALIPER HOUSING
5 - DUST BOOT
6 - PISTON SEAL BRAKE PRESSURE ON
5 - 14 BRAKES - BASEKJ
DISC BRAKE CALIPERS (Continued)

(4) Install the brake hose to the caliper withnew
seal washersand tighten fitting bolt to 31 N´m (23
ft. lbs.).
CAUTION: Verify brake hose is not twisted or
kinked before tightening fitting bolt.
(5) Remove the prop rod from the vehicle.
(6) Bleed the base brake system,(Refer to 5 -
BRAKES - STANDARD PROCEDURE) OR (Refer to
5 - BRAKES - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(7) Install the wheel and tire assemblies (Refer to
22 - TIRES/WHEELS/WHEELS - STANDARD PRO-
CEDURE).
(8) Remove the supports and lower the vehicle.
(9) Verify a firm pedal before moving the vehicle.
DISC BRAKE CALIPER
ADAPTER
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove the front wheel and tire assembly.
(3) Drain a small amount of fluid from master cyl-
inder brake reservoir with acleansuction gun.
(4) Bottom the caliper pistons into the caliper by
prying the caliper over.
(5) Remove the caliper mounting bolts (Fig. 16).
(6) Remove the disc brake caliper from the mount.
CAUTION: Never allow the disc brake caliper to
hang from the brake hose. Damage to the brake
hose will result. Provide a suitable support to hang
the caliper securely.
(7) Remove the inboard and outboard brake pads.
(Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/
BRAKE PADS/SHOES - REMOVAL).
(8) Remove the caliper adapter mounting bolts
(Fig. 16).
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the caliper adapter mounting bolts.
Tighten the mounting bolts to 135 N´m (100 ft.lbs).
(2) Install the inboard and outboard pads. (Refer
to 5 - BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/
BRAKE PADS/SHOES - INSTALLATION).
(3) Install the caliper mounting bolts.
(4) Install the tire and wheel assembly. (Refer to
22 - TIRES/WHEELS/WHEELS - STANDARD PRO-
CEDURE).
ROTORS
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - DISC BRAKE
ROTOR
The rotor braking surfaces should not be refinished
unless necessary.
Light surface rust and scale can be removed with a
lathe equipped with dual sanding discs. The rotor
surfaces can be restored by machining in a disc brake
lathe if surface scoring and wear are light.
Replace the rotor under the following conditions:
²severely scored
²tapered
²hard spots
²cracked
²below minimum thickness
ROTOR MINIMUM THICKNESS
Measure rotor thickness at the center of the brake
shoe contact surface. Replace the rotor if worn below
minimum thickness, or if machining would reduce
thickness below the allowable minimum.
Rotor minimum thickness is usually specified on
the rotor hub. The specification is either stamped or
cast into the hub surface.
ROTOR RUNOUT
Check rotor lateral runout with dial indicator
C-3339 (Fig. 28). Excessive lateral runout will cause
brake pedal pulsation and rapid, uneven wear of the
brake shoes. Position the dial indicator plunger
approximately 25.4 mm (1 in.) inward from the rotor
edge. The dial indicator should be positioned in the
center of the rotor surface. Maximum allowable rotor
runout is 0.102 mm (0.004 in.).
ROTOR THICKNESS VARIATION
Variations in rotor thickness will cause pedal pul-
sation, noise and shudder.
Measure rotor thickness at 6 to 12 points around
the rotor face (Fig. 29).
Position the micrometer approximately 25.4 mm (1
in.) from the rotor outer circumference for each mea-
surement.
Thickness should notvaryby more than 0.013 mm
(0.0005 in.) from point-to-point on the rotor. Machine
or replace the rotor if necessary.
5 - 18 BRAKES - BASEKJ
DISC BRAKE CALIPERS (Continued)