2002 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE interior

Inspect all the valve and plug bores in the valve
body. Use a penlight to view the bore interiors.
Replace the valve body if any bores are distorted or
scored. Inspect all of the valve body springs. The
springs must be free of distortion, warpage or broken
coils.
Trial fit each valve and plug in its bore to check
freedom of operation. When clean and dry, the valves
and plugs should drop freely into the bores.
Valve body bores do not change dimensionally with
use. If the valve body functioned correctly when new,
it will continue to operate properly after cleaning and
inspection. It should not be necessary to replace a
valve body assembly unless it is damaged in han-
dling.
Inspect all the accumulator bores in the valve body.
Use a penlight to view the bore interiors. Replace the
valve body if any bores are distorted or scored.Inspect all of the accumulator springs. The springs
must be free of distortion, warpage or broken coils.
Inspect all the fluid seals on the valve body (Fig.
133). Replace any seals that are cracked, distorted, or
damaged in any way. These seals pass fluid pressure
directly to the clutches. Any pressure leak at these
points, may cause transmission performance prob-
lems.
ASSEMBLY
(1) Lubricate valves, springs, and the housing
valve bores with clean transmission fluid.
(2) Install solenoid switch valve, manual valve,
and the low/reverse switch valve into the valve body.
(3) Install the retainers to hold each valve into the
valve body.
(4) Install the valve body check balls into their
proper locations.
(5) Position the transfer plate onto the valve body.
(6) Install the screws to hold the transfer plate to
the valve body. Tighten the screws to 5.6 N´m (50 in.
lbs.).
(7) Install the accumulator pistons and springs
into the valve body in the location from which they
were removed. Note that all accumulators except the
overdrive have two springs. The overdrive accumula-
tor piston has only one spring.
Fig. 132 Valve Body Components
1 - SOLENOID SWITCH VALVE
2 - MANUAL VALVE
3 - LOW REVERSE SWITCH VALVE
4 - LOW REVERSE ACCUMULATOR
5 - 2ND CLUTCH ACCUMULATOR
6 - UNDERDRIVE ACCUMULATOR
7 - OVERDRIVE ACCUMULATOR
8 - 4TH CLUTCH ACCUMULATOR
9 - CHECK BALLS (7)
Fig. 133 Valve Body Seals
1 - UNDERDRIVE ACCUMULATOR (2 SPRINGS)
2 - 4TH CLUTCH ACCUMULATOR (2 SPRINGS)
3 - 2ND CLUTCH ACCUMULATOR (2 SPRINGS)
4 - LOW REVERSE ACCUMULATOR (2 SPRINGS)
5 - LOW/REVERSE PASSAGE SEAL
6 - 2ND CLUTCH PASSAGE SEAL
7 - 4TH CLUTCH PASSAGE SEAL
8 - OVERDRIVE ACCUMULATOR (1 SPRING)
21 - 278 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 545RFEWJ
VALVE BODY (Continued)

SHIFT FORKS/HUBS/SLEEVES
Check condition of the shift forks and mode fork
shift rail (Fig. 47). Minor nicks on the shift rail can
be smoothed with 320-400 grit emery cloth.
Inspect the shift fork wear pads. The mode fork
pads are serviceable and can be replaced if necessary.
The range fork pads are also serviceable.
Check both of the sleeves for wear or damage,
especially on the interior teeth. Replace the sleeves if
wear or damage is evident.
REAR RETAINER/BEARING/ SEAL/SLINGER/BOOT
Inspect the retainer components (Fig. 48). Replace
the bearing if rough or noisy. Check the retainer for
cracks or wear in the bearing bore. Clean the
retainer sealing surfaces with a scraper and 3M all
purpose cleaner. This will ensure proper adhesion of
the sealer during reassembly.
Replace the slinger and seal outright; do not reuse
either part.
Replace any part if distorted, bent, or broken. Also
replace the boot if cut or torn. Replace the boot band
clamps, do not reuse them.
Fig. 48 Rear Retainer - Typical
1 - REAR RETAINER 5 - BAND CLAMPS
2 - REAR BEARING I.D. MAINSHAFT RETAINING RING 6 - REAR SLINGER
3 - REAR SEAL 7 - REAR BEARING O.D. RETAINING RING
4 - BOOT 8 - REAR BEARING
Fig. 47 Shift Fork And Wear Pad Locations
1 - MODE FORK
2 - RANGE FORK
3 - WEAR PADS (SERVICEABLE)
4 - WEAR PADS (SERVICEABLE)
21 - 294 TRANSFER CASE - NV242WJ
TRANSFER CASE - NV242 (Continued)

FLUID
STANDARD PROCEDURE - FLUID DRAIN/
REFILL
The fill and drain plugs are both in the rear case
(Fig. 92).
(1) Raise vehicle.
(2) Position drain pan under transfer case.
(3) Remove drain and fill plugs and drain lubri-
cant completely.
(4) Install drain plug. Tighten plug to 20-34 N´m
(15-25 ft. lbs.).
(5) Remove drain pan.
(6) Fill transfer case to bottom edge of fill plug
opening with MopartTransfer Case Lubricant.
(7) Install and tighten fill plug to 20-34 N´m
(15-25 ft. lbs.).
(8) Lower vehicle.
FRONT OUTPUT SHAFT SEAL
REMOVAL
(1) Raise vehicle.
(2) Remove front propeller shaft. (Refer to 3 - DIF-
FERENTIAL & DRIVELINE/PROPELLER SHAFT/
PROPELLER SHAFT - REMOVAL)
(3) Remove front output shaft companion flange.
(4) Remove seal from front case with pry tool (Fig.
93).
INSTALLATION
(1) Install new front output seal in front case with
Installer Tool 6952-A as follows:
(a) Place new seal on tool. Garter spring on seal
goes toward interior of case.
(b) Start seal in bore with light taps from ham-
mer (Fig. 94). Once seal is started, continue tap-
ping seal into bore until installer tool seats against
case.
(2) Install companion flange and tighten nut to
122-176 (90-130 ft. lbs.) torque.
(3) Install front propeller shaft. (Refer to 3 - DIF-
FERENTIAL & DRIVELINE/PROPELLER SHAFT/
PROPELLER SHAFT - INSTALLATION)
Fig. 92 Fill/Drain Plug and I.D. Tag Location -
Typical
1 - I.D. TAG
2 - FILL PLUG
3 - DRAIN PLUG
Fig. 93 Remove Front Output Shaft Seal
1 - OUTPUT SHAFT SEAL
2 - PRYBAR
Fig. 94 Front Output Seal Installation
1 - INSTALLER 6952-A
2 - TRANSFER CASE
21 - 310 TRANSFER CASE - NV242WJ

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION
NOISY INÐOR JUMPS OUT OF
4WD LOW RANGE1. Transfer case not completely
engaged in 4WD LOW (possibly
from shift to 4L while rolling)1. Stop vehicle, shift transfer case
to neutral, then shift back to 4WD
LOW
2. Shift linkage loose, binding, or is
misadjusted2. Tighten, lubricate, or repair
linkage as necessary. Adjust linkage
if necessary
3. Range fork cracked, inserts
worn, or fork is binding on shift rail3. Disassemble unit and repair as
necessary
4. Annulus gear or lockplate worn
or damaged4. Disassemble unit and repair as
necessary
LUBRICANT LEAKING FROM
OUTPUT SHAFT SEALS OR FROM
VENT1. Transfer case over filled 1. Drain to correct level
2. Vent closed or restricted 2. Clear or replace vent if necessary
3. Output shaft seals damaged or
installed correctly3. Replace seals. Be sure seal lip
faces interior of case when installed.
Also be sure yoke seal surfaces are
not scored or nicked. Remove
scores and nicks with fine
sandpaper or replace yoke(s) if
necessary.
REMOVAL
(1) Shift transfer case into NEUTRAL.
(2) Raise vehicle.
(3) Remove transfer case drain plug and drain
transfer case lubricant.
(4) Mark front and rear propeller shaft yokes for
alignment reference.
(5) Support transmission with jack stand.
(6) Remove rear crossmember and skid plate, if
equipped (Fig. 4).
(7) Disconnect front propeller shaft from transfer
case at companion flange. Remove rear propeller
shaft from vehicle. (Refer to 3 - DIFFERENTIAL &
DRIVELINE/PROPELLER SHAFT/PROPELLER
SHAFT - REMOVAL)
CAUTION: Do not allow propshafts to hang at
attached end. Damage to joint can result.
(8) Disconnect transfer case cable from range
lever.
(9) Disconnect transfer case vent hose (Fig. 5).
(10) Support transfer case with transmission jack.
(11) Secure transfer case to jack with chains.
(12) Remove nuts attaching transfer case to trans-
mission.
(13) Pull transfer case and jack rearward to disen-
gage transfer case (Fig. 5).
(14) Remove transfer case from under vehicle.
DISASSEMBLY
Position transfer case on shallow drain pan.
Remove drain plug and drain lubricant remaining in
case.
Fig. 4 Crossmember Removal
1 - CROSSMEMBER
2 - REAR TRANSMISSION MOUNT
WJTRANSFER CASE - NV247 21 - 317
TRANSFER CASE - NV247 (Continued)

(6) Install new front output seal in front case with
Installer Tool 6952-A as follows:
(a) Place new seal on tool.Garter spring on
seal goes toward interior of case.
(b) Start seal in bore with light taps from ham-
mer (Fig. 36). Once seal is started, continue tap-
ping seal into bore until installer tool bottoms
against case.
(7) Remove the output shaft rear bearing with the
screw and jaws from Remover L-4454 and Cup 8148
(Fig. 37).(8) Install new bearing with Tool Handle C-4171
and Installer 5066 (Fig. 38).The bearing bore is
chamfered at the top. Install the bearing so it is
flush with the lower edge of this chamfer (Fig.
39).
Fig. 37 Output Shaft Rear Bearing Removal
1 - REAR CASE
2 - SPECIAL TOOL L-4454-1 AND L-4454-3
3 - SPECIAL TOOL 8148
Fig. 36 Front Output Seal Installation
1 - INSTALLER 6952-A
2 - TRANSFER CASE
Fig. 38 Output Shaft Rear Bearing Installation
1 - HANDLE C-4171
2 - OUTPUT SHAFT INNER BEARING
3 - INSTALLER 5066
Fig. 39 Output Shaft Rear Bearing Installation Depth
1 - BEARING (SEATED) AT LOWER EDGE OF CHAMFER
2 - CHAMFER
WJTRANSFER CASE - NV247 21 - 327
TRANSFER CASE - NV247 (Continued)

FLUID
STANDARD PROCEDURE - FLUID DRAIN/
REFILL
The fill and drain plugs are both in the rear case
(Fig. 72).
(1) Raise vehicle.
(2) Position drain pan under transfer case.
(3) Remove drain and fill plugs and drain lubri-
cant completely.
(4) Install drain plug. Tighten plug to 20-34 N´m
(15-25 ft. lbs.).
(5) Remove drain pan.(6) Fill transfer case to bottom edge of fill plug
opening with MopartTransfer Case Lubricant.
(7) Install and tighten fill plug to 20-34 N´m
(15-25 ft. lbs.).
(8) Lower vehicle.
FRONT OUTPUT SHAFT SEAL
REMOVAL
(1) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(2) Remove front propeller shaft. (Refer to 3 - DIF-
FERENTIAL & DRIVELINE/PROPELLER SHAFT/
PROPELLER SHAFT - REMOVAL)
(3) Remove front output shaft companion shaft.
(4) Remove seal from front case with pry tool (Fig.
73).
INSTALLATION
(1) Install new front output seal in front case with
Installer Tool 6952-A as follows:
(a) Place new seal on tool. Garter spring on seal
goes toward interior of case.
(b) Start seal in bore with light taps from ham-
mer (Fig. 74). Once seal is started, continue tap-
ping seal into bore until installer tool seats against
case.
(2) Install companion flange and torque nut to
122-176 N´m (90-130 ft. lbs.).
(3) Install front propeller shaft. (Refer to 3 - DIF-
FERENTIAL & DRIVELINE/PROPELLER SHAFT/
PROPELLER SHAFT - INSTALLATION)
Installer, Bearign - 8128
Installer, Seal - 7884
Fig. 72 Fill/Drain Plug and I.D. Tag Location -
Typical
1 - I.D. TAG
2 - FILL PLUG
3 - DRAIN PLUG
Fig. 73 Remove Front Output Shaft Seal
1 - OUTPUT SHAFT SEAL
2 - PRYBAR
21 - 338 TRANSFER CASE - NV247WJ
TRANSFER CASE - NV247 (Continued)

BODY
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
BODY
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
WATER LEAKS........................1
WIND NOISE..........................2
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - BODY
LUBRICATION.........................2
STANDARD PROCEDURE - DRILLING AND
WELDING............................3
SPECIFICATIONS
BODY LUBRICANTS....................3
SPECIFICATIONS - TORQUE.............4
SPECIAL TOOLS
BODY...............................4DECKLID/HATCH/LIFTGATE/TAILGATE........5
DOOR - FRONT.........................11
DOORS - REAR.........................19
EXTERIOR.............................25
HOOD.................................33
INSTRUMENT PANEL SYSTEM.............36
INTERIOR..............................69
PAINT.................................81
SEATS................................83
STATIONARY GLASS.....................93
SUNROOF.............................96
WEATHERSTRIP/SEALS..................105
BODY STRUCTURE.....................112
BODY
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
WATER LEAKS
Water leaks can be caused by poor sealing,
improper body component alignment, body seam
porosity, missing plugs, or blocked drain holes. Cen-
trifugal and gravitational force can cause water to
drip from a location away from the actual leak point,
making leak detection difficult. All body sealing
points should be water tight in normal wet-driving
conditions. Water flowing downward from the front of
the vehicle should not enter the passenger or luggage
compartment. Moving sealing surfaces will not
always seal water tight under all conditions. At
times, side glass or door seals will allow water to
enter the passenger compartment during high pres-
sure washing or hard driving rain (severe) condi-
tions. Overcompensating on door or glass
adjustments to stop a water leak that occurs under
severe conditions can cause premature seal wear and
excessive closing or latching effort. After completing
a repair, water test vehicle to verify leak has stopped
before returning vehicle to use.
VISUAL INSPECTION BEFORE WATER LEAK TESTS
Verify that floor and body plugs are in place, body
drains are clear, and body components are properly
aligned and sealed. If component alignment or seal-
ing is necessary, refer to the appropriate section of
this group for proper procedures.
WATER LEAK TESTS
WARNING: DO NOT USE ELECTRIC SHOP LIGHTS
OR TOOLS IN WATER TEST AREA. PERSONAL
INJURY CAN RESULT.
When the conditions causing a water leak have
been determined, simulate the conditions as closely
as possible.
²If a leak occurs with the vehicle parked in a
steady light rain, flood the leak area with an open-
ended garden hose.
²If a leak occurs while driving at highway speeds
in a steady rain, test the leak area with a reasonable
velocity stream or fan spray of water. Direct the
spray in a direction comparable to actual conditions.
²If a leak occurs when the vehicle is parked on an
incline, hoist the end or side of the vehicle to simu-
late this condition. This method can be used when
the leak occurs when the vehicle accelerates, stops or
turns. If the leak occurs on acceleration, hoist the
front of the vehicle. If the leak occurs when braking,
hoist the back of the vehicle. If the leak occurs on left
turns, hoist the left side of the vehicle. If the leak
occurs on right turns, hoist the right side of the vehi-
cle. For hoisting recommendations refer to Group 0,
Lubrication and Maintenance, General Information
section.
WATER LEAK DETECTION
To detect a water leak point-of-entry, do a water
test and watch for water tracks or droplets forming
on the inside of the vehicle. If necessary, remove inte-
rior trim covers or panels to gain visual access to the
WJBODY 23 - 1

leak area. If the hose cannot be positioned without
being held, have someone help do the water test.
Some water leaks must be tested for a considerable
length of time to become apparent. When a leak
appears, find the highest point of the water track or
drop. The highest point usually will show the point of
entry. After leak point has been found, repair the
leak and water test to verify that the leak has
stopped.
Locating the entry point of water that is leaking
into a cavity between panels can be difficult. The
trapped water may splash or run from the cavity,
often at a distance from the entry point. Most water
leaks of this type become apparent after accelerating,
stopping, turning, or when on an incline.
MIRROR INSPECTION METHOD
When a leak point area is visually obstructed, use
a suitable mirror to gain visual access. A mirror can
also be used to deflect light to a limited-access area
to assist in locating a leak point.
BRIGHT LIGHT LEAK TEST METHOD
Some water leaks in the luggage compartment can
be detected without water testing. Position the vehi-
cle in a brightly lit area. From inside the darkened
luggage compartment inspect around seals and body
seams. If necessary, have a helper direct a drop light
over the suspected leak areas around the luggage
compartment. If light is visible through a normally
sealed location, water could enter through the open-
ing.
PRESSURIZED LEAK TEST METHOD
When a water leak into the passenger compart-
ment cannot be detected by water testing, pressurize
the passenger compartment and soap test exterior of
the vehicle. To pressurize the passenger compart-
ment, close all doors and windows, start engine, and
set heater control to high blower in HEAT position. If
engine can not be started, connect a charger to the
battery to ensure adequate voltage to the blower.
With interior pressurized, apply dish detergent solu-
tion to suspected leak area on the exterior of the
vehicle. Apply detergent solution with spray device or
soft bristle brush. If soap bubbles occur at a body
seam, joint, seal or gasket, the leak entry point could
be at that location.
WIND NOISE
Wind noise is the result of most air leaks. Air leaks
can be caused by poor sealing, improper body compo-
nent alignment, body seam porosity, or missing plugs
in the engine compartment or door hinge pillar areas.
All body sealing points should be airtight in normal
driving conditions. Moving sealing surfaces will notalways seal airtight under all conditions. At times,
side glass or door seals will allow wind noise to be
noticed in the passenger compartment during high
cross winds. Over compensating on door or glass
adjustments to stop wind noise that occurs under
severe conditions can cause premature seal wear and
excessive closing or latching effort. After a repair pro-
cedure has been performed, test vehicle to verify
noise has stopped before returning vehicle to use.
Wind noise can also be caused by improperly fitted
exterior moldings or body ornamentation. Loose
moldings can flutter, creating a buzzing or chattering
noise. An open cavity or protruding edge can create a
whistling or howling noise. Inspect the exterior of the
vehicle to verify that these conditions do not exist.
VISUAL INSPECTION BEFORE TESTS
Verify that floor and body plugs are in place and
body components are aligned and sealed. If compo-
nent alignment or sealing is necessary, refer to the
appropriate section of this group for proper proce-
dures.
ROAD TESTING WIND NOISE
(1) Drive the vehicle to verify the general location
of the wind noise.
(2) Apply 50 mm (2 in.) masking tape in 150 mm
(6 in.) lengths along weatherstrips, weld seams or
moldings. After each length is applied, drive the vehi-
cle. If noise goes away after a piece of tape is applied,
remove tape, locate, and repair defect.
POSSIBLE CAUSE OF WIND NOISE
²Moldings standing away from body surface can
catch wind and whistle.
²Gaps in sealed areas behind overhanging body
flanges can cause wind-rushing sounds.
²Misaligned movable components.
²Missing or improperly installed plugs in pillars.
²Weld burn through holes.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - BODY LUBRICATION
All mechanisms and linkages should be lubricated
when necessary. This will maintain ease of operation
and provide protection against rust and excessive
wear. The weatherstrip seals should be lubricated to
prolong their life as well as to improve door sealing.
All applicable exterior and interior vehicle operat-
ing mechanisms should be inspected and cleaned.
Pivot/sliding contact areas on the mechanisms should
then be lubricated.
(1) When necessary, lubricate the operating mech-
anisms with the specified lubricants.
23 - 2 BODYWJ
BODY (Continued)