(9) Remove the oil pump valve retainers and asso-
ciated valve and spring one at a time (Fig. 93) (Fig.
94). Mark the combination of components as a group
and tag them as to the location from which they were
removed.
CLEANING
Clean pump and support components with solvent
and dry them with compressed air.
INSPECTION
Check condition of the seal rings and thrust
washer on the reaction shaft support. The seal rings
do not need to be replaced unless cracked, broken, or
severely worn.
Inspect the pump and support components. Replace
the pump or support if the seal ring grooves or
machined surfaces are worn, scored, pitted, or dam-
aged. Replace the pump gears if pitted, worn
chipped, or damaged.Inspect the pump reaction shaft support bushings.
Replace either bushing only if heavily worn, scored or
damaged. It is not necessary to replace the bushings
unless they are actually damaged.
Inspect the valves and plugs for scratches, burrs,
nicks, or scores. Minor surface scratches on steel
valves and plugs can be removed with crocus cloth
butdo not round off the edges of the valve or
plug lands.Maintaining sharpness of these edges is
vitally important. The edges prevent foreign matter
from lodging between the valves and plugs and the
bore.
Inspect all the valve and plug bores in the oil
pump cover. Use a penlight to view the bore interi-
ors. Replace the oil pump if any bores are distorted
or scored. Inspect all of the valve springs. The
springs must be free of distortion, warpage or broken
coils.
Trial fit each valve and plug in its bore to check
freedom of operation. When clean and dry, the valves
and plugs should drop freely into the bores.
Fig. 93 Oil Pump Valve Body
1 - T/C REGULATOR VALVE
2 - T/C LIMIT VALVE
3 - REGULATOR VALVE
4 - OIL PUMP VALVE BODY
Fig. 94 T/C Switch Valve
1 - RETAINER
2 - T/C SWITCH VALVE
3 - OIL PUMP VALVE BODY
21 - 252 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 545RFEWJ
OIL PUMP (Continued)
BODY
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
BODY
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
WATER LEAKS........................1
WIND NOISE..........................2
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - BODY
LUBRICATION.........................2
STANDARD PROCEDURE - DRILLING AND
WELDING............................3
SPECIFICATIONS
BODY LUBRICANTS....................3
SPECIFICATIONS - TORQUE.............4
SPECIAL TOOLS
BODY...............................4DECKLID/HATCH/LIFTGATE/TAILGATE........5
DOOR - FRONT.........................11
DOORS - REAR.........................19
EXTERIOR.............................25
HOOD.................................33
INSTRUMENT PANEL SYSTEM.............36
INTERIOR..............................69
PAINT.................................81
SEATS................................83
STATIONARY GLASS.....................93
SUNROOF.............................96
WEATHERSTRIP/SEALS..................105
BODY STRUCTURE.....................112
BODY
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
WATER LEAKS
Water leaks can be caused by poor sealing,
improper body component alignment, body seam
porosity, missing plugs, or blocked drain holes. Cen-
trifugal and gravitational force can cause water to
drip from a location away from the actual leak point,
making leak detection difficult. All body sealing
points should be water tight in normal wet-driving
conditions. Water flowing downward from the front of
the vehicle should not enter the passenger or luggage
compartment. Moving sealing surfaces will not
always seal water tight under all conditions. At
times, side glass or door seals will allow water to
enter the passenger compartment during high pres-
sure washing or hard driving rain (severe) condi-
tions. Overcompensating on door or glass
adjustments to stop a water leak that occurs under
severe conditions can cause premature seal wear and
excessive closing or latching effort. After completing
a repair, water test vehicle to verify leak has stopped
before returning vehicle to use.
VISUAL INSPECTION BEFORE WATER LEAK TESTS
Verify that floor and body plugs are in place, body
drains are clear, and body components are properly
aligned and sealed. If component alignment or seal-
ing is necessary, refer to the appropriate section of
this group for proper procedures.
WATER LEAK TESTS
WARNING: DO NOT USE ELECTRIC SHOP LIGHTS
OR TOOLS IN WATER TEST AREA. PERSONAL
INJURY CAN RESULT.
When the conditions causing a water leak have
been determined, simulate the conditions as closely
as possible.
²If a leak occurs with the vehicle parked in a
steady light rain, flood the leak area with an open-
ended garden hose.
²If a leak occurs while driving at highway speeds
in a steady rain, test the leak area with a reasonable
velocity stream or fan spray of water. Direct the
spray in a direction comparable to actual conditions.
²If a leak occurs when the vehicle is parked on an
incline, hoist the end or side of the vehicle to simu-
late this condition. This method can be used when
the leak occurs when the vehicle accelerates, stops or
turns. If the leak occurs on acceleration, hoist the
front of the vehicle. If the leak occurs when braking,
hoist the back of the vehicle. If the leak occurs on left
turns, hoist the left side of the vehicle. If the leak
occurs on right turns, hoist the right side of the vehi-
cle. For hoisting recommendations refer to Group 0,
Lubrication and Maintenance, General Information
section.
WATER LEAK DETECTION
To detect a water leak point-of-entry, do a water
test and watch for water tracks or droplets forming
on the inside of the vehicle. If necessary, remove inte-
rior trim covers or panels to gain visual access to the
WJBODY 23 - 1
leak area. If the hose cannot be positioned without
being held, have someone help do the water test.
Some water leaks must be tested for a considerable
length of time to become apparent. When a leak
appears, find the highest point of the water track or
drop. The highest point usually will show the point of
entry. After leak point has been found, repair the
leak and water test to verify that the leak has
stopped.
Locating the entry point of water that is leaking
into a cavity between panels can be difficult. The
trapped water may splash or run from the cavity,
often at a distance from the entry point. Most water
leaks of this type become apparent after accelerating,
stopping, turning, or when on an incline.
MIRROR INSPECTION METHOD
When a leak point area is visually obstructed, use
a suitable mirror to gain visual access. A mirror can
also be used to deflect light to a limited-access area
to assist in locating a leak point.
BRIGHT LIGHT LEAK TEST METHOD
Some water leaks in the luggage compartment can
be detected without water testing. Position the vehi-
cle in a brightly lit area. From inside the darkened
luggage compartment inspect around seals and body
seams. If necessary, have a helper direct a drop light
over the suspected leak areas around the luggage
compartment. If light is visible through a normally
sealed location, water could enter through the open-
ing.
PRESSURIZED LEAK TEST METHOD
When a water leak into the passenger compart-
ment cannot be detected by water testing, pressurize
the passenger compartment and soap test exterior of
the vehicle. To pressurize the passenger compart-
ment, close all doors and windows, start engine, and
set heater control to high blower in HEAT position. If
engine can not be started, connect a charger to the
battery to ensure adequate voltage to the blower.
With interior pressurized, apply dish detergent solu-
tion to suspected leak area on the exterior of the
vehicle. Apply detergent solution with spray device or
soft bristle brush. If soap bubbles occur at a body
seam, joint, seal or gasket, the leak entry point could
be at that location.
WIND NOISE
Wind noise is the result of most air leaks. Air leaks
can be caused by poor sealing, improper body compo-
nent alignment, body seam porosity, or missing plugs
in the engine compartment or door hinge pillar areas.
All body sealing points should be airtight in normal
driving conditions. Moving sealing surfaces will notalways seal airtight under all conditions. At times,
side glass or door seals will allow wind noise to be
noticed in the passenger compartment during high
cross winds. Over compensating on door or glass
adjustments to stop wind noise that occurs under
severe conditions can cause premature seal wear and
excessive closing or latching effort. After a repair pro-
cedure has been performed, test vehicle to verify
noise has stopped before returning vehicle to use.
Wind noise can also be caused by improperly fitted
exterior moldings or body ornamentation. Loose
moldings can flutter, creating a buzzing or chattering
noise. An open cavity or protruding edge can create a
whistling or howling noise. Inspect the exterior of the
vehicle to verify that these conditions do not exist.
VISUAL INSPECTION BEFORE TESTS
Verify that floor and body plugs are in place and
body components are aligned and sealed. If compo-
nent alignment or sealing is necessary, refer to the
appropriate section of this group for proper proce-
dures.
ROAD TESTING WIND NOISE
(1) Drive the vehicle to verify the general location
of the wind noise.
(2) Apply 50 mm (2 in.) masking tape in 150 mm
(6 in.) lengths along weatherstrips, weld seams or
moldings. After each length is applied, drive the vehi-
cle. If noise goes away after a piece of tape is applied,
remove tape, locate, and repair defect.
POSSIBLE CAUSE OF WIND NOISE
²Moldings standing away from body surface can
catch wind and whistle.
²Gaps in sealed areas behind overhanging body
flanges can cause wind-rushing sounds.
²Misaligned movable components.
²Missing or improperly installed plugs in pillars.
²Weld burn through holes.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - BODY LUBRICATION
All mechanisms and linkages should be lubricated
when necessary. This will maintain ease of operation
and provide protection against rust and excessive
wear. The weatherstrip seals should be lubricated to
prolong their life as well as to improve door sealing.
All applicable exterior and interior vehicle operat-
ing mechanisms should be inspected and cleaned.
Pivot/sliding contact areas on the mechanisms should
then be lubricated.
(1) When necessary, lubricate the operating mech-
anisms with the specified lubricants.
23 - 2 BODYWJ
BODY (Continued)
PAINT TOUCH-UP
DESCRIPTION
When a painted metal surface has been scratched
or chipped, it should be touched-up as soon as possi-
ble to avoid corrosion. For best results, use Mopart
Scratch Filler/Primer, Touch-Up Paints and Clear Top
Coat. Refer to Introduction group of this manual for
Body Code Plate information.
WARNING: USE AN OSHA APPROVED BREATHING
FILTER WHEN SPRAYING PAINT OR SOLVENTS IN
A CONFINED AREA. PERSONAL INJURY CAN
RESULT.
OPERATION
(1) Scrape loose paint and corrosion from inside
scratch or chip.
(2) Clean affected area with MopartTar/Road Oil
Remover, and allow to dry.
(3) Fill the inside of the scratch or chip with a coat
of filler/primer. Do not overlap primer onto good sur-
face finish. The applicator brush should be wet
enough to puddle-fill the defect without running. Do
not stroke brush applicator on body surface. Allow
the filler/primer to dry hard.
(4) Cover the filler/primer with color touch-up
paint. Do not overlap touch-up color onto the original
color coat around the scratch or chip. Butt the new
color to the original color, if possible. Do not stroke
applicator brush on body surface. Allow touch-up
paint to dry hard.
(5) On vehicles without clear coat, the touch-up
color can be lightly finesse sanded (1500 grit) and
polished with rubbing compound.
(6) On vehicles with clear coat, apply clear top coat
to touch-up paint with the same technique as
described in Step 4. Allow clear top coat to dry hard.
If desired, Step 5 can be performed on clear top coat.
WARNING: AVOID PROLONGED SKIN CONTACT
WITH PETROLEUM OR ALCOHOL ± BASED CLEAN-
ING SOLVENTS. PERSONAL INJURY CAN RESULT.
AVOID PROLONGED SKIN CONTACT WITH PETRO-
LEUM OR ALCOHOL ± BASED CLEANING SOL-
VENTS. PERSONAL INJURY CAN RESULT.
FINESSE SANDING/BUFFING &
POLISHING
DESCRIPTION
CAUTION: Do not remove more than .5 mils of
clearcoat finish, if equipped. Base coat paint must
retain clear coat for durability.
Use a Paint Thickness Gauge #PR-ETG-2X or equiv-
alent to determine film thickness before and after
the repair.
Minor acid etching, orange peel, or smudging in
clearcoat or single-stage finishes can be reduced with
light finesse sanding, hand buffing, and polishing.If
the finish has been finesse sanded in the past,
it cannot be repeated. Finesse sanding opera-
tion should be performed by a trained automo-
tive paint technician.
23 - 82 PAINTWJ
INSTALLATION
WARNING: REVIEW ALL WARNINGS AND CAU-
TIONS IN THIS GROUP BEFORE PRECEDING WITH
INSTALLATION.
CAUTION: Open a window before installing wind-
shield. This will avoid pressurizing the passenger
compartment. If a door or liftgate is slammed before
urethane is cured, water leaks can result.
The windshield fence should be cleaned of old ure-
thane bonding material. Support spacers should be
cleaned and properly installed on weld studs or
repair screws at bottom of windshield opening.
(1)
Place replacement windshield into windshield
opening. Position glass in the center of the opening
against the support spacers. Mark the glass at the sup-
port spacers with a grease pencil or masking tape and
ink pen to use as a reference for installation. Remove
replacement windshield from windshield opening (Fig. 6).
(2) Position the windshield inside up on a suitable
work surface with two padded, wood 10 cm by 10 cm
by 50 cm (4 in. by 4 in. by 20 in.) blocks, placed par-
allel 75 cm (2.5 ft.) apart (Fig. 7).
(3) Clean inside of windshield with Mopar Glass
Cleaner and lint-free cloth.
(4) Apply clear glass primer 25 mm (1 in.) wide
around edge of windshield. Wipe with clean/dry lint-
free cloth.
(5)
Apply black-out primer 15 mm (.75 in.) wide on
top and sides of windshield and 25 mm (1 in.) on bottom
of windshield. Allow at least three minutes drying time.
(6) Position windshield spacers on lower fence
above support spacers at the edge of the windshield
opening (Fig. 4).
(7)
Apply a 10 mm (0.4 in.) bead of urethane around
perimeter of windshield along the inside of the mold-
ings. Apply two beads along the bottom edge.
(8) Install upper molding onto windshield.
(9) Apply fence primer around the perimeter of the
windshield opening fence. Allow at least 18 minutes
drying time.
(10) With aid of a helper, position windshield over
windshield opening. Align reference marks at bottom
of windshield to support spacers.
(11) Slowly lower windshield glass to windshield
opening fence. Guide top molding into proper position
if necessary. Push windshield inward to fence spacers
at bottom and until top molding is flush to roof line.
(12) Clean excess urethane from exterior with
Mopar Super Clean or equivalent.
(13) Install windshield side moldings.
(14) Install cowl cover and wipers.
(15) Install inside rear view mirror.
(16) After urethane has cured, water test wind-
shield to verify repair.
Fig. 6 Center Windshield and Mark at Support Spacers
1 - A-PILLAR
2 - WINDSHIELD
3 - MARKS
4 - SUPPORT SPACER
5 - COWLFig. 7 Work Surface Set up and Molding Installation
1 - WINDSHIELD AND MOULDINGS
2-
URETHANE BEAD AROUND GLASS 7mm (.3 in.) FROM EDGE
3 - BLOCKS
Fig. 5 Cut Urethane Around WindshieldÐTypical
1 - COLD KNIFE
2 - WINDSHIELD
WJSTATIONARY GLASS 23 - 95
WINDSHIELD (Continued)
SUNROOF
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
SUNROOF
DESCRIPTION.........................96
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - SUNROOF......96
DRAIN TUBE
REMOVAL............................100
INSTALLATION........................100
CONTROL MODULE
REMOVAL............................101
INSTALLATION........................101
DRIVE MOTOR
REMOVAL............................101
INSTALLATION........................101
WIND DEFLECTOR
REMOVAL............................102INSTALLATION........................102
GLASS PANEL
REMOVAL............................102
INSTALLATION........................103
ADJUSTMENTS
ADJUSTMENTS - FIT.................103
ADJUSTMENT - TIMING...............103
SUNSHADE
REMOVAL............................103
INSTALLATION........................103
HOUSING ASSEMBLY
REMOVAL............................104
INSTALLATION........................104
SUNROOF
DESCRIPTION
WARNING: Keep fingers and other body parts out
of sunroof opening at all times.
The sunroof features a power sliding glass panel
and a sunshade which can be manually positioned
anywhere along its travel, rearward of glass panel
front edge.
The sunroof is electrically operated from a switch
located on the mini overhead console. To operate the
sunroof the ignition switch must be in the On/Run
position. The sunroof has both manual and Express
Open modes of operation when opening. To open the
sunroof in the Express Open mode, the switch is
pressed rearward for less than1 second.This causes
the sunroof glass to automatically retract and stop at
a position slightly forward of full open that reduces
low speed wind buffeting. The sunroof can also be
opened manually by pressing and holding the switch
rearward. Once the switch is held reward for more
than1 second,the glass will retract in the manual
mode. Releasing the switch at any time during travel
will cause the sunroof to stop at the current position.
To close the sunroof from an open position, the
switch must be pushed forward and held until the
sunroof glass comes to a complete stop. Releasing the
switch at any time in this mode will cause the sun-
roof to stop at the current position.
To vent the sunroof from the closed position, the
switch is pushed forward and held. Releasing theswitch at any time during travel will cause the sun-
roof to stop at the current vent position. To reach the
fully vented position, continue to hold the switch for-
ward until vent motion stops. To close the sunroof
from the vent position, push and hold the switch
rearward until the glass comes to a complete stop.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - SUNROOF
CAUTION: The sunroof motor is only to be powered
through the vehicle battery and vehicle wire har-
ness. Applying power to the sunroof motor leads
will cause failure of the sunroof control unit.
Before beginning sunroof diagnostics verify that all
other power accessories are in proper operating con-
dition. Refer to Sunroof Diagnostic Chart for possible
causes. If not, a common electrical problem may
exist. Refer to Group 8W, Wiring Diagrams, of this
publication for circuit, splice and component descrip-
tions. Check the condition of the circuit protection
(20 amp high current fuse (battery feed) located in
the Power Distribution Center (PDC). Check the
cover of the PDC for location of the fuse. Check for
correct operation of the sunroof delay relay. Inspect
all wiring connector pins for proper engagement and
continuity. Check for battery voltage at battery and
ignition pins of the power sunroof express module
wiring connector. Refer to Group 8W, Wiring Dia-
grams, for circuit information. The controller will not
operate at less than 10 volts. Check the ground at
the sunroof express module.
Before beginning diagnosis for wind noise or water
leaks, verify that the problem was not caused by
23 - 96 SUNROOFWJ
(9) Compare the compressor discharge pressure to
the Performance Temperature and Pressure chart. If
the compressor discharge pressure is high, see the
Pressure Diagnosis chart.
Pressure Diagnosis
Condition Possible Causes Correction
Rapid compressor clutch
cycling (ten or more cycles
per minute).1. Low refrigerant system
charge.1. See Plumbing/Diagnosis and Testing -
Refrigerant System Leaks in this group. Test the
refrigerant system for leaks. Repair, evacuate and
charge the refrigerant system, if required.
Equal pressures, but the
compressor clutch does not
engage.1. No refrigerant in the
refrigerant system.1. See Plumbing/Diagnosis and Testing -
Refrigerant System Leaks in this group. Test the
refrigerant system for leaks. Repair, evacuate and
charge the refrigerant system, if required.
2. Faulty fuse. 2. Check the fuses in the Power Distribution
Center and the junction block. Repair the shorted
circuit or component and replace the fuses, if
required.
3. Faulty a/c compressor
clutch coil.3. See A/C Compressor/Diagnosis and Testing -
Compressor Clutch Coil in this group. Test the
compressor clutch coil and replace, if required.
4. Faulty compressor clutch
relay.4. See A/C Compressor Clutch Relay/Diagnosis
and Testing - Compressor Clutch Relay in this
group. Test the compressor clutch relay and relay
circuits. Repair the circuits or replace the relay, if
required.
6. Faulty a/c high pressure
transducer.6. See A/C High Pressure Transducer/Diagnosis
and Testing in this group. Test the a/c high
pressure transducer and replace, if required.
7. Faulty Fin Probe. 7. Check for open circuit.
8. Faulty Powertrain Control
Module (PCM).8. Refer to the proper Diagnostic Procedures
manual for testing of the PCM. Test the PCM and
replace, if required.
Normal pressures, but A/C
Performance Test air
temperatures at center panel
outlet are too high.1. Excessive refrigerant oil in
system.1. See Refrigerant Oil/Standard Procedure -
Refrigerant Oil Level in this group. Recover the
refrigerant from the refrigerant system and
inspect the refrigerant oil content. Restore the
refrigerant oil to the proper level, if required.
2. Blend door inoperative or
sealing improperly.2. See Blend Door in this group. Inspect the
blend door for proper operation and sealing and
correct, if required.
3. Blend door actuator faulty
or inoperative.3. Perform blend door actuator diagnosis, replace
if faulty.
24 - 4 HEATING & AIR CONDITIONINGWJ
HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING (Continued)
Pressure Diagnosis
Condition Possible Causes Correction
The low side pressure is
normal or slightly low, and
the high side pressure is too
low.1. Low refrigerant system
charge.1. See Plumbing/Diagnosis and Testing -
Refrigerant System Leaks in this group. Test the
refrigerant system for leaks. Repair, evacuate and
charge the refrigerant system, if required.
2. Refrigerant flow through
the accumulator is restricted.2. See Accumulator in this group. Replace the
restricted accumulator, if required.
3. Refrigerant flow through
the evaporator coil is
restricted.3. See A/C Evaporator in this group. Replace the
restricted evaporator coil, if required.
4. Faulty compressor. 4. See A/C Compressor in this group. Replace
the compressor, if required.
The low side pressure is
normal or slightly high, and
the high side pressure is too
high.1. Condenser air flow
restricted.1. Check the condenser for damaged fins, foreign
objects obstructing air flow through the condenser
fins, and missing or improperly installed air seals.
Refer to Cooling for more information on air
seals. Clean, repair, or replace components as
required.
2. Inoperative cooling fan. 2. Refer to Cooling for more information. Test the
cooling fan and replace, if required.
3. Refrigerant system
overcharged.3. See Plumbing/Standard Procedure -
Refrigerant System Charge in this group. Recover
the refrigerant from the refrigerant system.
Charge the refrigerant system to the proper level,
if required.
4. Air in the refrigerant
system.4. See Plumbing/Diagnosis and Testing -
Refrigerant System Leaks in this group. Test the
refrigerant system for leaks. Repair, evacuate and
charge the refrigerant system, if required.
5. Engine overheating. 5. Refer to Cooling for more information. Test the
cooling system and repair, if required.
The low side pressure is too
high, and the high side
pressure is too low.1. Accessory drive belt
slipping.1. Refer to Cooling for more information. Inspect
the accessory drive belt condition and tension.
Tighten or replace the accessory drive belt, if
required.
2. Faulty compressor. 2. See A/C Compressor in this group. Replace
the compressor, if required.
The low side pressure is too
low, and the high side
pressure is too high.1. Restricted refrigerant flow
through the refrigerant lines.1. See Liquid, Suction, and Discharge Line in this
group. Inspect the refrigerant lines for kinks, tight
bends or improper routing. Correct the routing or
replace the refrigerant line, if required.
2. Restricted refrigerant flow
through the a/c expansion
valve.2. See A/C Expansion Valve in this group.
Replace the Expansion Valve if restricted.
3. Restricted refrigerant flow
through the condenser.3. See A/C Condenser in this group. Replace the
restricted condenser, if required.
WJHEATING & AIR CONDITIONING 24 - 5
HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING (Continued)