
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: When installing the engine into a vehicle
equipped with an automatic transmission, be care-
ful not to damage the trigger wheel on the engine
flywheel.
(1) Attach a lifting device to the engine and lower
the engine into the engine compartment. For easier
installation, it may be necessary to remove the
engine mount bracket as an aid in alignment of the
engine to the transmission.
(2) Align the transmission torque converter hous-
ing with the engine.
(3) Loosely install the converter housing lower
bolts and install the next higher bolt and nut on each
side.
(4) Tighten all 4 bolts finger tight.
(5) Install the engine mount brackets (if removed).
(6) Lower the engine and engine mount brackets
onto the engine compartment cushions. Install the
bolts and finger tighten the nuts.
(7) Remove the engine lifting device.
(8) Raise and support the vehicle.
(9) Install the remaining engine flywheel/converter
housing bolts. Tighten all bolts to 38 N´m (28 ft. lbs.)
torque.
(10) Install the converter-to-drive plate bolts.
(11) Ensure the installation reference marks are
aligned.
(12) Install the engine flywheel/converter housing
access cover.
(13) Install the exhaust pipe support and tighten
the screw.
(14) Install the engine bending brace (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/STRUCT SUPPORT -
INSTALLATION).
(15) Tighten the engine mount-to-bracket bolts.
(16) Connect the vehicle speed sensor wire connec-
tions and tighten the screws.
(17) Connect the exhaust pipe to the manifold.
(18) Install the engine starter motor (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/STARTING/STARTER MOTOR -
INSTALLATION).
(19) Connect the wires to the engine starter motor
solenoid.
(20) Lower the vehicle.
(21) Connect all the vacuum hoses and wire con-
nectors identified during engine removal.
(22) Remove protective caps from the power steer-
ing hoses.
(23) Connect the hoses to the fittings at the steer-
ing gear. Tighten the nut to 52 N´m (38 ft. lbs.)
torque.
(24) Fill the pump reservoir with fluid.(25) Inspect the fuel supply line o-ring(s) and
replace if necessary. Connect fuel supply line to injec-
tior rail and verify connection by pulling outward on
the line.
(26) Install the fuel line bracket to the intake
manifold.
(27) Connect the coil rail electrical connectors and
oil pressure switch connector.
(28) Connect the following electrical connectors:
²Power steering pressure switch
²Coolant temperature sensor
²Six (6) fuel injector connectors
²Intake air temperature sensor
²Throttle position sensor
²Map sensor
²Crankshaft position sensor
²Oxygen sensor
²Camshaft position sensor
²Generator connector and B+ terminal wire
(29) Connect all previously removed vacuum hoses.
(30) Connect the body ground strap.
(31) Install the throttle, transmission line pres-
sure, and speed control cables to their mounting
bracket and connect them to the throttle body.
(32) Connect the heater hoses at the engine ther-
mostat housing and water pump.
(33) Install the fan assembly (Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING/ENGINE/RADIATOR FAN - INSTALLATION).
(34) Place the fan shroud in position over the fan.
(35) Install the radiator (Refer to 7 - COOLING/
ENGINE/RADIATOR - INSTALLATION).
(36) Connect the service valves to the A/C com-
pressor ports, if equipped with A/C.
(37) Charge the air conditioner system (Refer to 24
- HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(38) Connect the radiator hoses and automatic
transmission fluid cooler pipes, if equipped.
(39) Install the fan shroud to the radiator or radi-
ator/condenser (if equipped with A/C).
(40) Install upper radiator support.
(41) Connect the upper radiator hose and tighten
the clamp.
(42) Connect the lower radiator hose and tighten
the clamp.
(43) Fill crankcase with engine oil. (Refer to
LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE/FLUID CAPACI-
TIES - SPECIFICATIONS) for correct capacities.
(44) Fill the cooling system with reusable coolant
or new coolant (Refer to 7 - COOLING - STANDARD
PROCEDURE).
(45) Align the hood to the scribe marks. Install the
hood.
(46) Install the air cleaner assembly.
(47) Install the battery and connect the battery
cable.
WJENGINE - 4.0L 9 - 13
ENGINE - 4.0L (Continued)

ENGINE BLOCK
CLEANING
Thoroughly clean the oil pan and engine block gas-
ket surfaces.
Use compressed air to clean out:
²The galley at the oil filter adaptor hole.
²The front and rear oil galley holes.
²The feed holes for the crankshaft main bearings.
Once the block has been completely cleaned, apply
Loctite PST pipe sealant with Teflon 592 to the
threads of the front and rear oil galley plugs. Tighten
the plugs to 34 N´m (25 ft. lbs.) torque.
INSPECTION
(1) It is mandatory to use a dial bore gauge to
measure each cylinder bore diameter (Fig. 29). To
correctly select the proper size piston, a cylinder bore
gauge, capable of reading in 0.003 mm (.0001 in.)
INCREMENTS is required. If a bore gauge is not
available, do not use an inside micrometer.
(2) Measure the inside diameter of the cylinder
bore at three levels below top of bore. Start perpen-
dicular (across or at 90 degrees) to the axis of the
crankshaft and then take two additional reading.(3) Measure the cylinder bore diameter crosswise
to the cylinder block near the top of the bore. Repeat
the measurement near the middle of the bore, then
repeat the measurement near the bottom of the bore.
(4) Determine taper by subtracting the smaller
diameter from the larger diameter.
(5) Rotate measuring device 90É and repeat steps
above.
(6) Determine out-of-roundness by comparing the
difference between each measurement.
(7) If cylinder bore taper does not exceed 0.025
mm (0.001 inch) and out-of-roundness does not
exceed 0.025 mm (0.001 inch), the cylinder bore can
be honed. If the cylinder bore taper or out- of-round
condition exceeds these maximum limits, the cylinder
must be bored and then honed to accept an oversize
piston. A slight amount of taper always exists in the
cylinder bore after the engine has been in use for a
period of time.
CAMSHAFT & BEARINGS
DESCRIPTION
The camshaft is made of gray cast iron with twelve
machined lobes and four bearing journals (Fig. 30).
When the camshaft rotates the lobes actuate the tap-
pets and push rods, forcing upward on the rocker
arms which applies downward force on the valves.
Fig. 28 Valve and Valve
1 - VALVE LOCKS (3±BEAD)
2 - RETAINER
3 - VALVE STEM OIL SEAL
4 - INTAKE VALVE
5 - EXHAUST VALVE
6 - VALVE SPRINGFig. 29 Cylinder Bore Measurement
9 - 30 ENGINE - 4.0LWJ
VALVE SPRINGS (Continued)

NOTE: All eight valve springs and valves are
removed in the same manner; this procedure only
covers one valve and valve spring.
(3) Using Special Tool C-3422±B or C-3422±C
Valve Spring Compressor and Special tool 8519
Adapter, compress the valve spring.
NOTE: It may be necessary to tap the top of the
valve spring to loosen the spring retainers locks
enough to be removed.
(4) Remove the two spring retainer lock halves.
NOTE: the valve spring is under tension use care
when releasing the valve spring compressor.
(5) Remove the valve spring compressor.
(6) Remove the spring retainer, and the spring.
NOTE: Check for sharp edges on the keeper
grooves. Remove any burrs from the valve stem
before removing the valve from the cylinder head.
(7) Remove the valve from the cylinder head.
NOTE: The valve stem seals are common between
intake and exhaust.
(8) Remove the valve stem seal. Mark the valve for
proper installation.
TESTING VALVE SPRINGS
NOTE: Whenever the valves are removed from the
cylinder head it is recommended that the valve
springs be inspected and tested for reuse.
Inspect the valve springs for physical signs of wear
or damage. Turn table of tool C-647 until surface is
in line with the 40.69 mm (1.602 in.) mark on the
threaded stud and the zero mark on the front. Place
spring over the stud on the table and lift compress-
ing lever to set tone device. Pull on torque wrench
until Ping is heard. Take reading on torque wrench
at this instant. Multiply this reading by two. This
will give the spring load at test length. Fractional
measurements are indicated on the table for finer
adjustments. Refer to Specifications Section to obtain
specified height and allowable tensions. Replace any
springs that do not meet specifications. (Fig. 25)
INSTALLATION
(1) coat the valve stem with clean engine oil and
insert it into the cylinder head.
(2) Install the valve stem seal. make sure the seal
is fully seated and that the garter spring at the top
of the seal is intact.
(3) Install the spring and the spring retainer (Fig.
26).
(4) Using the valve spring compressor, compress
the spring and install the two valve spring retainer
halves.
(5) Release the valve spring compressor and make
sure the two spring retainer halves and the spring
retainer are fully seated.
(6) lubricate the camshaft journal with clean
engine oil then Position the camshaft (with the
sprocket dowel on the left camshaft at 11 o'clock and
the right camshaft at 12 o'clock), then position the
camshaft bearing caps.
(7) Install the camshaft bearing cap retaining
bolts. Tighten the bolts 9±13 N´m (100 in. lbs.) in
1¤2
turn increments in the sequence shown (Fig. 27).
(8) Position the hydraulic lash adjusters and
rocker arms (Fig. 24).
Fig. 25 Testing Valve Springs
1 - SPECIAL TOOL C-647
WJENGINE - 4.7L 9 - 95
INTAKE/EXHAUST VALVES & SEATS (Continued)

(4) Remove the two spring retainer lock halves.
NOTE: the valve spring is under tension use care
when releasing the valve spring compressor.
(5) Remove the valve spring compressor.
(6) Remove the spring retainer, and the spring.
NOTE: Check for sharp edges on the keeper
grooves. Remove any burrs from the valve stem
before removing the valve from the cylinder head.
(7) Remove the valve from the cylinder head.
NOTE: The valve stem seals are common between
intake and exhaust.
(8) Remove the valve stem seal. Mark the valve for
proper installation.
TESTING VALVE SPRINGS
NOTE: Whenever the valves are removed from the
cylinder head it is recommended that the valve
springs be inspected and tested for reuse.
Inspect the valve springs for physical signs of wear
or damage. Turn table of tool C-647 until surface is
in line with the 40.69 mm (1.602 in.) mark on the
threaded stud and the zero mark on the front. Place
spring over the stud on the table and lift compress-
ing lever to set tone device. Pull on torque wrench
until Ping is heard. Take reading on torque wrench
at this instant. Multiply this reading by two. This
will give the spring load at test length. Fractional
measurements are indicated on the table for finer
adjustments. Refer to Specifications Section to obtain
specified height and allowable tensions. Replace any
springs that do not meet specifications. (Fig. 41)
INSTALLATION
(1) coat the valve stem with clean engine oil and
insert it into the cylinder head.
(2) Install the valve stem seal. make sure the seal
is fully seated and that the garter spring at the top
of the seal is intact.
(3) Install the spring and the spring retainer (Fig.
42).
(4) Using the valve spring compressor, compress
the spring and install the two valve spring retainer
halves.
(5) Release the valve spring compressor and make
sure the two spring retainer halves and the spring
retainer are fully seated.(6) lubricate the camshaft journal with clean
engine oil then Position the camshaft (with the
sprocket dowel on the left camshaft at 11 o'clock and
the right camshaft at 12 o'clock), then position the
camshaft bearing caps.
Fig. 41 Testing Valve Springs
1 - SPECIAL TOOL C-647
Fig. 42 Valve Assembly Configuration
1 - VALVE LOCKS (3±BEAD)
2 - RETAINER
3 - VALVE STEM OIL SEAL
4 - INTAKE VALVE
5 - EXHAUST VALVE
6 - VALVE SPRING
9 - 106 ENGINE - 4.7LWJ
INTAKE/EXHAUST VALVES & SEATS (Continued)

free cloth to check that the bore is clean. Oil the
bores after cleaning to prevent rusting.
CLEANING
Thoroughly clean the oil pan and engine block gas-
ket surfaces.
Use compressed air to clean out:
²The galley at the oil filter adaptor hole.
²The front and rear oil galley holes.
²The feed holes for the crankshaft main bearings.
Once the block has been completely cleaned, apply
Loctite PST pipe sealant with Teflon 592 to the
threads of the front and rear oil galley plugs. Tighten
the plugs to 34 N´m (25 ft. lbs.) torque.
INSPECTION
(1) It is mandatory to use a dial bore gauge to
measure each cylinder bore diameter. To correctly
select the proper size piston, a cylinder bore gauge,
capable of reading in 0.003 mm (.0001 in.) INCRE-
MENTS is required. If a bore gauge is not available,
do not use an inside micrometer (Fig. 46).
(2) Measure the inside diameter of the cylinder
bore at three levels below top of bore. Start perpen-
dicular (across or at 90 degrees) to the axis of the
crankshaft and then take two additional reading.(3) Measure the cylinder bore diameter crosswise
to the cylinder block near the top of the bore. Repeat
the measurement near the middle of the bore, then
repeat the measurement near the bottom of the bore.
(4) Determine taper by subtracting the smaller
diameter from the larger diameter.
(5) Rotate measuring device 90É and repeat steps
above.
(6) Determine out-of-roundness by comparing the
difference between each measurement.
(7) If cylinder bore taper does not exceed 0.025
mm (0.001 inch) and out-of-roundness does not
exceed 0.025 mm (0.001 inch), the cylinder bore can
be honed. If the cylinder bore taper or out- of-round
condition exceeds these maximum limits, the cylinder
block must be replaced. A slight amount of taper
always exists in the cylinder bore after the engine
has been in use for a period of time.
CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS
STANDARD PROCEDURE - CONNECTING ROD
BEARING FITTING
Inspect the connecting rod bearings for scoring and
bent alignment tabs (Fig. 47) (Fig. 48). Check the
bearings for normal wear patterns, scoring, grooving,
fatigue and pitting (Fig. 49). Replace any bearing
that shows abnormal wear.
Inspect the connecting rod journals for signs of
scoring, nicks and burrs.
Misaligned or bent connecting rods can cause
abnormal wear on pistons, piston rings, cylinder
walls, connecting rod bearings and crankshaft con-
necting rod journals. If wear patterns or damage to
any of these components indicate the probability of a
misaligned connecting rod, inspect it for correct rod
alignment. Replace misaligned, bent or twisted con-
necting rods.
(1) Wipe the oil from the connecting rod journal.
(2) Lubricate the upper bearing insert and install
in connecting rod.
(3) Use piston ring compressor and Guide Pins
Special Tool 8507 (Fig. 50) to install the rod and pis-
ton assemblies. The oil slinger slots in the rods must
face front of the engine. The ªFº's near the piston
wrist pin bore should point to the front of the engine.
(4) Install the lower bearing insert in the bearing
cap. The lower insert must be dry. Place strip of Plas-
tigage across full width of the lower insert at the cen-
ter of bearing cap. Plastigage must not crumble in
use. If brittle, obtain fresh stock.
(5) Install bearing cap and connecting rod on the
journal and tighten bolts to 27 N´m (20 ft. lbs.) plus a
90É turn. DO NOT rotate crankshaft. Plastigage will
smear, resulting in inaccurate indication.
Fig. 46 Bore GaugeÐTypical
1 - FRONT
2 - BORE GAUGE
3 - CYLINDER BORE
4-38MM
(1.5 in)
WJENGINE - 4.7L 9 - 109
ENGINE BLOCK (Continued)

INSPECTION
Inspect the following components:
²Sprockets for excessive tooth wear. Some tooth
markings are normal and not a cause for sprocket
replacement.
²Idler sprocket assembly bushing and shaft for
excessive wear.
²Idler sprocket assembly spline joint. The joint
should be tight with no backlash or axial movement.
²Chain guides and tensioner arms. Replace these
parts if grooving in plastic face is more than 1 mm
(0.039 in.) deep. If plastic face is severely grooved or
melted, the tensioner lube jet may be clogged. The
tensioner should be replaced.
²secondary chain tensioner piston and ratcheting
device. Inspect for evidence of heavy contact between
tensioner piston and tensioner arm. If this condition
exist the tensioner and tensioner arm should be
replaced.
²Primary chain tensioner plastic faces. Replace as
required (Fig. 127).
INSTALLATION
(1) Using a vise, lightly compress the secondary
chain tensioner piston until the piston step is flush
with the tensioner body. Using a pin or suitable tool,
release ratchet pawl by pulling pawl back against
spring force through access hole on side of tensioner.
While continuing to hold pawl back, Push ratchet
device to approximately 2 mm from the tensioner
Fig. 124 Camshaft Position SensorÐRemoval
1 - CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR
2 - CYLINDER HEAD COVER
3 - CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR
4 - RIGHT SIDE CYLINDER BLOCK
Fig. 125 Camshaft RotationÐLeft Side
1 - CAMSHAFT SPROCKET AND CHAIN
2 - ADJUSTABLE PLIERS
3 - CAMSHAFT
Fig. 126 Camshaft RotationÐRight Side
1 - ADJUSTABLE PLIERS
2 - CAMSHAFT DOWEL
WJENGINE - 4.7L 9 - 149
TIMING BELT/CHAIN AND SPROCKETS (Continued)

SPECIAL TOOLS
FUEL SYSTEM
FUEL FILTER/PRESSURE
REGULATOR
DESCRIPTION
The combination fuel filter/pressure regulator is
located in front of the fuel tank and above the rear
axle (Fig. 3). It is transversely mounted to a chassis
crossmember (left-to-right).Fuel Line Identifica-
tion:The filter/regulator is equipped with 3 fuel line
fittings (2 at one end and 1 at the other end). The
single fitting facing the left side of the vehicle is the
supply line to the fuel rail (Fig. 3). The 2 fittings fac-
ing the right side of the vehicle are connected to the
fuel tank. Of these 2 fittings, the fitting towards the
frontis used for fuel return to the fuel tank. The fit-
ting towards therearis a pressure line.
OPERATION
Fuel Pressure Regulator Operation:The pres-
sure regulator is a mechanical device that is not con-
trolled by engine vacuum or the Powertrain Control
Module (PCM).
Spanner WrenchÐ6856
FITTING, AIR METERING - 6714
Adapters, Fuel Pressure TestÐ6539 and/or 6631
O2S (Oxygen Sensor) Remover/InstallerÐC-4907
Test Kit, Fuel PressureÐ5069
Test Kit, Fuel PressureÐC-4799-B
Fuel Line Removal ToolÐ6782
WJFUEL DELIVERY 14 - 5
FUEL DELIVERY (Continued)

CAUTION: The left and right fuel rails are replaced
as an assembly. Do not attempt to separate rail
halves at connector tube (Fig. 22). Due to design of
tube, it does not use any clamps. Never attempt to
install a clamping device of any kind to tube. When
removing fuel rail assembly for any reason, be care-
ful not to bend or kink tube.
(1) Remove fuel tank filler tube cap.
(2) Perform Fuel System Pressure Release Proce-
dure.
(3) Remove negative battery cable at battery.
(4) Remove air duct at throttle body air box.
(5) Remove air box at throttle body.
(6) Remove wiring at rear of generator.
(7) Disconnect fuel line latch clip and fuel line at
fuel rail. A special tool will be necessary for fuel line
disconnection. Refer to Quick-Connect Fittings.
(8) Remove vacuum lines at throttle body.(9) Disconnect electrical connectors at all 8 fuel
injectors. To remove connector refer to (Fig. 23). Push
red colored slider away from injector (1). While push-
ing slider, depress tab (2) and remove connector (3)
from injector. The factory fuel injection wiring har-
ness is numerically tagged (INJ 1, INJ 2, etc.) for
injector position identification. If harness is not
tagged, note wiring location before removal.
(10) Disconnect electrical connectors at throttle
body.
(11) Disconnect electrical connectors at MAP and
IAT sensors.
Fig. 21 Fuel Injector Rail/Fuel DamperÐ4.0L Engine
1 - INJ. #1
2 - INJ. #2
3 - INJ. #3
4 - INJ. #4
5 - INJ. #5
6 - INJ. #6
7 - FUEL INJECTOR RAIL
8 - FUEL DAMPER
9 - PRESSURE TEST PORT CAP
10 - MOUNTING BOLTS (4)
11 - QUICK-CONNECT FITTING
Fig. 22 FUEL INJECTOR RAIL - 4.7L V-8 EN
1 - MOUNTING BOLTS (4)
2 - INJ.#7
3 - INJ.#5
4 - QUICK-CONNECT FITTING
5 - INJ.#3
6 - FUEL INJECTOR RAIL
7 - INJ.#1
8 - CONNECTOR TUBE
9 - INJ.#2
10 - INJ.#4
11 - INJ.#6
12 - INJ.#8
13 - PRESSURE TEST PORT CAP
14 - 16 FUEL DELIVERYWJ
FUEL RAIL (Continued)