2002 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE Starting system

VISUAL TEST METHOD
With the engine cool, remove the coolant pressure
cap. Start the engine and allow it to warm up until
thermostat opens.
If a large combustion/compression pressure leak
exists, bubbles will be visible in the coolant.
COOLING SYSTEM TESTER METHOD
WARNING: WITH COOLING SYSTEM TESTER IN
PLACE, PRESSURE WILL BUILD UP FAST. EXCES-
SIVE PRESSURE BUILT UP, BY CONTINUOUS
ENGINE OPERATION, MUST BE RELEASED TO A
SAFE PRESSURE POINT. NEVER PERMIT PRES-
SURE TO EXCEED 138 kPa (20 psi).
Install Cooling System Tester 7700 or equivalent to
pressure cap neck. Start the engine and observe the
tester's pressure gauge. If gauge pulsates with every
power stroke of a cylinder a combustion pressure
leak is evident.
CHEMICAL TEST METHOD
Combustion leaks into the cooling system can also
be checked by using Bloc-Chek Kit C-3685-A or
equivalent. Perform test following the procedures
supplied with the tool kit.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HYDRAULIC LASH
ADJUSTER
A tappet-like noise may be produced from several
items. Check the following items.
(1) Engine oil level too high or too low. This may
cause aerated oil to enter the adjusters and cause
them to be spongy.
(2) Insufficient running time after rebuilding cylin-
der head. Low speed running up to 1 hour may be
required.
(3) Turn engine off and let set for a few minutes
before restarting. Repeat this several times after
engine has reached normal operating temperature.
(4) Low oil pressure.
(5) The oil restrictor in cylinder head gasket or the
oil passage to the cylinder head is plugged with
debris.
(6) Air ingested into oil due to broken or cracked
oil pump pick up.
(7) Worn valve guides.
(8) Rocker arm ears contacting valve spring
retainer.
(9) Rocker arm loose, adjuster stuck or at maxi-
mum extension and still leaves lash in the system.
(10) Oil leak or excessive cam bore wear in cylin-
der head.
(11) Faulty lash adjuster.a. Check lash adjusters for sponginess while
installed in cylinder head and cam on camshaft at
base circle. Depress part of rocker arm over adjuster.
Normal adjusters should feel very firm. Spongy
adjusters can be bottomed out easily.
b. Remove suspected lash adjusters, and replace.
c. Before installation, make sure adjusters are at
least partially full of oil. This can be verified by little
or no plunger travel when lash adjuster is depressed.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect battery negitive cable.
(2) Raise the vehicle on a hoist.
(3) Disconnect the exhaust pipe at the right side
exhaust manifold.
(4) Drain the engine coolant (Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(5) Lower the vehicle.
(6) Remove the intake manifold (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/MANIFOLDS/INTAKE MANIFOLD -
REMOVAL).
(7) Remove the cylinder head cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
(8) Remove oil fill housing from cylinder head.
(9) Remove accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
REMOVAL).
(10) Rotate the crankshaft until the damper tim-
ing mark is aligned with TDC indicator mark (Fig.
9).
(11) Verify the V8 mark on the camshaft sprocket
is at the 12 o'clock position (Fig. 11). Rotate the
crankshaft one turn if necessary.
(12) Remove the crankshaft damper (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION DAMPER -
REMOVAL).
(13) Remove the timing chain cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN
COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
(14) Lock the secondary timing chains to the idler
sprocket using Special Tool 8515 (Fig. 10).
NOTE: Mark the secondary timing chain prior to
removal to aid in installation.
(15) Mark the secondary timing chain, one link on
each side of the V8 mark on the camshaft drive gear
(Fig. 11).
(16) Remove the right side secondary chain ten-
sioner (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIM-
ING BELT/CHAIN AND SPROCKETS - REMOVAL).
(17) Remove the cylinder head access plug (Fig.
29).
(18) Remove the right side secondary chain guide
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING
BELT/CHAIN AND SPROCKETS - REMOVAL).
9 - 98 ENGINE - 4.7LWJ
CYLINDER HEAD - RIGHT (Continued)

(5) With a wiping cloth, clean the gasket sealing
surface of oil and grime.
INSTALLATION
(1) Lightly lubricate oil filter gasket with engine
oil.
(2) Thread filter onto adapter nipple. When gasket
makes contact with sealing surface, (Fig. 94)hand
tighten filter one full turn, do not over tighten.
(3) Add oil, verify crankcase oil level and start
engine. Inspect for oil leaks.
OIL PAN
DESCRIPTION
The engine oil pan is made of laminated steel and
has a single plane sealing surface. The sandwich
style oil pan gasket has an integrated windage tray
and steel carrier. The sealing area of the gasket is
molded with rubber and is designed to be reused as
long as the gasket is not cut, torn or ripped.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(3) Remove structural cover (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
ENGINE BLOCK/STRUCTURAL COVER - REMOV-
AL).
(4) Remove exhaust system Y-pipe.
(5) Remove starter (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
STARTING/STARTER MOTOR - REMOVAL).
(6) Drain engine oil.
(7) Un-clip transmission lines from support on oil
pan stud. Move lines for oil pan clearance.
CAUTION: DO NOT pry on the oil pan gasket when
removing the oil pan, The oil pan gasket is mounted
to the cylinder block in three locations and will
remain attached to block when lowering oil pan.
Gasket can not be removed with oil pan.
(8) Remove oil pan bolts and oil pan.
(9) Remove oil pump pickup tube.
(10) Remove oil pan gasket.
CLEANING
(1) Clean oil pan in solvent and wipe dry with a
clean cloth.
(2) Clean the oil pan gasket surface.DO NOTuse
a grinder wheel or other abrasive tool to clean seal-
ing surface.
(3) Clean oil screen and tube thoroughly in clean
solvent.
INSPECTION
(1) Inspect oil drain plug and plug hole for
stripped or damaged threads. Repair as necessary.
(2) Inspect the oil pan mounting flange for bends
or distortion. Straighten flange, if necessary.
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean oil pan and all sealing surfaces. Inspect
oil pan gasket and replace as necessary.
(2) Install oil pan gasket.
Fig. 93 Oil Filter - 4.7L Engine
1 - ENGINE OIL FILTER
Fig. 94 Oil Filter Sealing SurfaceÐTypical
1 - SEALING SURFACE
2 - RUBBER GASKET
3 - OIL FILTER
9 - 132 ENGINE - 4.7LWJ
OIL FILTER (Continued)

NOTE: When installing oil pan gasket/windage tray,
start four pan bolts at each corner before tightening
oil pickup tube. This will keep pan gasket in align-
ment.
(3) Install oil pump pick-up tube using a new
O-ring. First tighten bolt at O-ring end of tube to 28
N´m (20 ft. lbs.). Tighten remain tube support fasten-
ers to 28 N´m (20 ft. lbs.).
(4) Install oil pan and tighten fasteners to 15 N´m
(11 ft. lbs.) (Fig. 95).
(5) Reconnect transmission oil cooler lines to oil
pan stud bolt.
(6) Install starter (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
STARTING/STARTER MOTOR - INSTALLATION).
(7) Install exhaust system Y-pipe.
(8) Install structural cover (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
ENGINE BLOCK/STRUCTURAL COVER - INSTAL-
LATION).
(9) Lower vehicle.
(10) Fill engine with proper amount of oil (Refer to
LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE/FLUID TYPES -
SPECIFICATIONS).
(11) Connect negative cable to battery.
OIL PRESSURE SENSOR/
SWITCH
DESCRIPTION
The 3±wire, solid-state engine oil pressure sensor
(sending unit) is located in an engine oil pressure
gallery.
OPERATION
The oil pressure sensor uses three circuits. They are:
²A 5±volt power supply from the Powertrain Con-
trol Module (PCM)
²A sensor ground through the PCM's sensor
return
²
A signal to the PCM relating to engine oil pressure
The oil pressure sensor has a 3±wire electrical
function very much like the Manifold Absolute Pres-
sure (MAP) sensor. Meaning different pressures
relate to different output voltages.
A 5±volt supply is sent to the sensor from the PCM
to power up the sensor. The sensor returns a voltage
signal back to the PCM relating to engine oil pres-
sure. This signal is then transferred (bussed) to the
instrument panel on either a CCD or PCI bus circuit
(depending on vehicle line) to operate the oil pressure
gauge and the check gauges lamp. Ground for the
sensor is provided by the PCM through a low-noise
sensor return.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
(2) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(3) Remove front splash shield.
(4) Disconnect oil pressure sender wire (Fig. 96).
(5) Remove the pressure sender (Fig. 96).
INSTALLATION
(1) Install oil pressure sender.
(2) Connect oil pressure sender wire.
(3) Install front splash shield.
(4) Lower vehicle.
(5) Connect the negative battery cable.
Fig. 95 Oil Pan Tightening Sequence
Fig. 96 Oil Pressure Sending Unit
1 - BELT
2 - OIL PRESSURE SENSOR
3 - OIL FILTER
4 - ELEC. CONNECTOR
WJENGINE - 4.7L 9 - 133
OIL PAN (Continued)

(7) Connect throttle cable and speed control cable
to throttle body.
(8) Install fuel rail (Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/
FUEL DELIVERY/FUEL RAIL - INSTALLATION).
(9) Install ignition coil towers (Refer to 8 - ELEC-
TRICAL/IGNITION CONTROL/IGNITION COIL -
INSTALLATION).
(10) Install coolant temperature sensor (Refer to 7
- COOLING/ENGINE/ENGINE COOLANT TEMP
SENSOR - INSTALLATION).
(11) Connect electrical connectors for the following
components:
²Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor
²Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor
²Throttle Position (TPS) Sensor
²Coolant Temperature (CTS) Sensor
²Idle Air Control (IAC) Motor
²Ignition coil towers
²Fuel injectors
(12) Install top oil dipstick tube retaining bolt and
ground strap.
(13) Install right side engine lifting stud.
(14) Install generator including electrical connec-
tions (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/CHARGING/GEN-
ERATOR - INSTALLATION).
(15) Connect Vapor purge hose, Brake booster
hose, Speed control servo hose, Positive crankcase
ventilation (PCV) hose.
(16) Install air conditioning compressor including
electrical connections.
(17) Fill cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(18) Install accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
INSTALLATION).
(19) Install cowl to hood seal (Refer to 23 - BODY/
WEATHERSTRIP/SEALS/COWL WEATHERSTRIP -
INSTALLATION).
(20) Install air cleaner housing and throttle body
resonator. Tighten resonator bolts 4.5 N´m (40 in.
lbs.).
(21) Connect negative cable to battery.
EXHAUST MANIFOLD - LEFT
DESCRIPTION
The exhaust manifolds are log style with a pat-
ented flow enhancing design to maximize perfor-
mance. The exhaust manifolds are made of high
silicon molybdenum cast iron. A perforated core
graphite exhaust manifold gasket is used to improve
sealing to the cylinder head. The exhaust manifolds
are covered by a three layer laminated heat shield
for thermal protection and noise reduction. The heat
shields are fastened with a torque prevailing nutthat is backed off slightly to allow for the thermal
expansion of the exhaust manifold.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative cable for battery.
(2) Hoist vehicle.
(3) Disconnect exhaust pipe at manifold.
(4) Lower vehicle.
(5) Remove air cleaner housing and tube.
(6) Remove the front two exhaust heat shield
retaining fasteners. Raise vehicle and remove the
fasteners at rear of heat shield.
(7) Remove heat shield (Fig. 107).
(8) Lower vehicle and remove the upper exhaust
manifold retaining bolts (Fig. 107).
(9) Raise vehicle and remove the lower exhaust
manifold retaining bolts (Fig. 107).
(10) Remove exhaust manifold and gasket (Fig.
107). Manifold is removed from below the engine
compartment.
CLEANING
(1) Clean the exhaust manifold using a suitable
cleaning solvent, then allow to air dry.
(2) Clean all gasket residue from the manifold
mating surface.
INSPECTION
(1) Inspect the exhaust manifold for cracks in the
mating surface and at every mounting bolt hole.
(2) Using a straight edge and a feeler gauge, check
the mating surface for warp and twist.
(3) Inspect the manifold to exhaust pipe mating
surface for cracks, gouges, or other damage that
would prevent sealing.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install exhaust manifold and gasket from below
engine compartment.
(2) Install lower exhaust manifold fasteners (Fig.
107). DO NOT tighten until all fasteners are in
place.
(3) Lower vehicle and install upper exhaust mani-
fold fasteners (Fig. 107). Tighten all manifold bolts
starting at center and working outward to 25 N´m
(18 ft. lbs.).
CAUTION: Over tightening heat shield fasteners,
may cause shield to distort and/or crack.
(4) Install exhaust manifold heat shield (Fig. 107).
Tighten fasteners to 8 N´m (72 in. lbs.), then loosen
45 degrees.
(5) Install air cleaner housing and tube.
(6) Connect exhaust pipe to manifold.
(7) Connect negative cable to battery.
9 - 138 ENGINE - 4.7LWJ
INTAKE MANIFOLD (Continued)

INSPECTION
(1) Inspect the exhaust manifold for cracks in the
mating surface and at every mounting bolt hole.
(2) Using a straight edge and a feeler gauge, check
the mating surface for warp and twist.
(3) Inspect the manifold to exhaust pipe mating
surface for cracks, gouges, or other damage that
would prevent sealing.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install exhaust manifold and gasket from below
engine compartment.
(2) Install lower exhaust manifold fasteners. DO
NOT tighten until all fasteners are in place.
(3) Lower vehicle and install upper exhaust mani-
fold fasteners. Tighten all manifold bolts starting at
center and working outward to 25 N´m (18 ft. lbs.).
CAUTION: Over tightening heat shield fasteners,
may cause shield to distort and/or crack.
(4) Install exhaust manifold heat shield. Tighten
fasteners to 8 N´m (72 in. lbs.), then loosen 45
degrees.
(5) Install starter and fasteners.
(6) Connect exhaust pipe to manifold.
(7) Connect heater hoses at engine.
(8) Install fastener attaching A/C accumulator.
(9) Install A/C compressor and fasteners.
(10) Install accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
INSTALLATION).
(11) Install washer bottle and battery tray assem-
bly.
(12) Install PDC.
(13) Install battery and connect cables.
(14) Fill cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
VALVE TIMING
DESCRIPTION - TIMING DRIVE SYSTEM
The timing drive system has been designed to pro-
vide quiet performance and reliability to support a
non-free wheelingengine. Specifically the intake
valves are non-free wheeling and can be easily dam-
aged with forceful engine rotation if camshaft-to-
crankshaft timing is incorrect. The timing drive
system consists of a primary chain and two second-
ary timing chain drives (Fig. 109).
OPERATION - TIMING DRIVE SYSTEM
The primary timing chain is a single inverted tooth
type. The primary chain drives the large fifty tooth
idler sprocket directly from a 25 tooth crankshaftsprocket. Primary chain motion is controlled by a
pivoting leaf spring tensioner arm and a fixed guide.
The arm and the guide both use nylon plastic wear
faces for low friction and long wear. The primary
chain receives oil splash lubrication from the second-
ary chain drive and oil pump leakage. The idler
sprocket assembly connects the primary and second-
ary chain drives. The idler sprocket assembly con-
sists of two integral thirty tooth sprockets and a fifty
tooth sprocket that is splined to the assembly. The
spline joint is a non ± serviceable press fit anti rattle
type. A spiral ring is installed on the outboard side of
the fifty tooth sprocket to prevent spline disengage-
ment. The idler sprocket assembly spins on a station-
ary idler shaft. The idler shaft is press-fit into the
cylinder block. A large washer on the idler shaft bolt
and the rear flange of the idler shaft are used to con-
trol sprocket thrust movement. Pressurized oil is
routed through the center of the idler shaft to pro-
vide lubrication for the two bushings used in the
idler sprocket assembly.
There are two secondary drive chains, both are
inverted tooth type, one to drive the camshaft in each
SOHC cylinder head. There are no shaft speed
changes in the secondary chain drive system. Each
secondary chain drives a thirty tooth cam sprocket
directly from the thirty tooth sprocket on the idler
sprocket assembly. A fixed chain guide and a hydrau-
lic oil damped tensioner are used to maintain tension
in each secondary chain system. The hydraulic ten-
sioners for the secondary chain systems are fed pres-
surized oil from oil reservoir pockets in the block.
Each tensioner also has a mechanical ratchet system
that limits chain slack if the tensioner piston bleeds
down after engine shut down. The tensioner arms
and guides also utilize nylon wear faces for low fric-
tion and long wear. The secondary timing chains
receive lubrication from a small orifice in the ten-
sioners. This orifice is protected from clogging by a
fine mesh screen which is located on the back of the
hydraulic tensioners.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ENGINE TIMING -
VERIFICATION
CAUTION: The 4.7L is a non free-wheeling design
engine. Therefore, correct engine timing is critical.
NOTE: Components referred to as left hand or right
hand are as viewed from the drivers position inside
the vehicle.
WJENGINE - 4.7L 9 - 141
EXHAUST MANIFOLD - RIGHT (Continued)

STANDARD PROCEDURE - FUEL SYSTEM
PRESSURE RELEASE
Use following procedure if the fuel injector
rail is, or is not equipped with a fuel pressure
test port.
(1) Remove fuel fill cap.
(2) Remove fuel pump relay from Power Distribu-
tion Center (PDC). For location of relay, refer to label
on underside of PDC cover.
(3) Start and run engine until it stalls.
(4) Attempt restarting engine until it will no
longer run.
(5) Turn ignition key to OFF position.
CAUTION: Steps 1, 2, 3 and 4 must be performed to
relieve high pressure fuel from within fuel rail. Do
not attempt to use following steps to relieve this
pressure as excessive fuel will be forced into a cyl-
inder chamber.
(6) Unplug connector from any fuel injector.
(7) Attach one end of a jumper wire with alligator
clips (18 gauge or smaller) to either injector terminal.(8) Connect other end of jumper wire to positive
side of battery.
(9) Connect one end of a second jumper wire to
remaining injector terminal.
CAUTION: Powering an injector for more than a few
seconds will permanently damage the injector.
(10) Momentarily touch other end of jumper wire
to negative terminal of battery for no more than a
few seconds.
(11) Place a rag or towel below fuel line quick-con-
nect fitting at fuel rail.
(12) Disconnect quick-connect fitting at fuel rail.
Refer to Quick-Connect Fittings.
(13) Return fuel pump relay to PDC.
(14) One or more Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC's)
may have been stored in PCM memory due to fuel
pump relay removal. The DRBtscan tool must be
used to erase a DTC.
SPECIFICATIONS
FUEL SYSTEM PRESSURE
339 kPa   34 kPa (49.2 psi   5 psi).
TORQUE - FUEL DELIVERY
DESCRIPTION N-m Ft. Lbs. In. Lbs.
Accelerator Pedal Bracket Mounting Nuts
(without adjustable pedals)12  2 - 105  20
Fuel Filter/Fuel Press. Reg. Bolts 3 - 26
Fuel Hose Clamps 3 - 26
Fuel Injector Rail Mounting Bolts -4.0L Engine 11 - 100
Fuel Injector Rail Mounting Bolts -4.7L V-8
Engine11 - 100
Fuel Pump Module Locknut 74 55 -
Fuel Tank Filler Tube-to-Body Mounting Bolts 2 - 15
Fuel Tank-to-Body Mounting Bolts 88 65 -
Fuel Tank Support Bracket Bolts (large brackets) 88 65 -
Fuel Tank Support Bracket Bolts (small bracket) 5 - 45
Fuel Tank Support Bracket Nuts (large brackets) 61 45 -
Fuel Tank Heat Shield Nuts (shield-to-tank) 9 - 85
Fuel Tank Heat Shield Nuts (shield-to-body) 3 - 25
14 - 4 FUEL DELIVERYWJ
FUEL DELIVERY (Continued)

OPERATION
Voltage to operate the electric pump is supplied
through the fuel pump relay.
Fuel is drawn in through a filter at the bottom of
the module and pushed through the electric motor
gearset to the pump outlet.
Check Valve Operation:The pump outlet con-
tains a one-way check valve to prevent fuel flow back
into the tank and to maintain fuel supply line pres-
sure (engine warm) when pump is not operational. It
is also used to keep the fuel supply line full of gaso-
line when pump is not operational. After the vehicle
has cooled down, fuel pressure may drop to 0 psi
(cold fluid contracts), but liquid gasoline will remain
in fuel supply line between the check valve and fuel
injectors.Fuel pressure that has dropped to 0
psi on a cooled down vehicle (engine off) is a
normal condition.Refer to the Fuel Pressure Leak
Down Test for more information.
The electric fuel pump is not a separate, service-
able component.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - FUEL PUMP
CAPACITY TEST
Before performing this test, verify fuel pump
pressure. Refer to Fuel Pump Pressure Test.
Use this test in conjunction with the Fuel Pres-
sure Leak Down Test.
(1) Release fuel system pressure. Refer to Fuel
Pressure Release Procedure.
(2) Disconnect fuel supply line at fuel rail. Refer to
Quick-Connect Fittings. Some engines may require
air cleaner housing removal before line disconnection.
(3) Obtain correct Fuel Line Pressure Test Adapter
Tool Hose. Tool number 6539 is used for 5/16º fuel
lines and tool number 6631 is used for 3/8º fuel lines.
(4) Connect correct Fuel Line Pressure Test
Adapter Tool Hose into disconnected fuel supply line.
Insert other end of Adaptor Tool Hose into a gradu-
ated container.
(5) Remove fuel fill cap.
(6) To activate fuel pump and pressurize system,
obtain DRBtscan tool and actuate ASD Fuel System
Test.
(7) A good fuel pump will deliver at least 1/4 liter
of fuel in 7 seconds. Do not operate fuel pump for
longer than 7 seconds with fuel line disconnected as
fuel pump module reservoir may run empty.
(a) If capacity is lower than specification, but
fuel pump can be heard operating through fuel fill
cap opening, check for a kinked/damaged fuel sup-
ply line somewhere between fuel rail and fuel
pump module.(b) If line is not kinked/damaged, and fuel pres-
sure is OK, but capacity is low, replace fuel filter/
fuel pressure regulator. The filter/regulator may be
serviced separately on certain applications. Refer
to Fuel Filter/Fuel Pressure Regulator Removal/In-
stallation for additional information.
(c) If both fuel pressure and capacity are low,
replace fuel pump module assembly. Refer to Fuel
Pump Module Removal/Installation.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - FUEL PUMP
AMPERAGE TEST
This amperage (current draw) test is to be done in
conjunction with the Fuel Pump Pressure Test, Fuel
Pump Capacity Test and Fuel Pressure Leak Down
Test. Before performing the amperage test, be sure
the temperature of the fuel tank is above 50É F (10É
C).
The DRBtScan Tool along with the DRB Low Cur-
rent Shunt (LCS) adapter (Fig. 8) and its test leads
will be used to check fuel pump amperage specifica-
tions.
(1) Be sure fuel tank contains fuel before starting
test. If tank is empty or near empty, amperage read-
ings will be incorrect.
(2) Obtain LCS adapter.
(3) Plug cable from LCS adapter into DRB scan
tool at SET 1 receptacle.
(4) Plug DRB into vehicle 16±way connector (data
link connector).
Fig. 8 LOW CURRENT SHUNT
1 - LOW CURRENT SHUNT ADAPTER
2 - PLUG TO DRB
3 - TEST LEAD RECEPTACLES
WJFUEL DELIVERY 14 - 9
FUEL PUMP (Continued)

REMOVAL
The overdrive unit can be removed and serviced
separately. It is not necessary to remove the entire
transmission assembly to perform overdrive unit
repairs.
If only the overdrive unit requires service, refer to
Overdrive Removal for proper procedures.
CAUTION: The transmission and torque converter
must be removed as an assembly to avoid compo-
nent damage. The converter driveplate, pump bush-
ing, or oil seal can be damaged if the converter is
left attached to the driveplate during removal. Be
sure to remove the transmission and converter as
an assembly.
(1) Disconnect battery negative cable.
(2) Disconnect and lower or remove necessary
exhaust components.
(3) Disconnect fluid cooler lines at transmission.
(4) Remove starter motor. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRI-
CAL/STARTING/STARTER MOTOR - REMOVAL)
(5) Disconnect and remove crankshaft position sen-
sor. (Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL INJEC-
TION/CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR -
REMOVAL) Retain sensor attaching bolts.
CAUTION: The crankshaft position sensor will be
damaged if the transmission is removed, or
installed, while the sensor is still bolted to the
engine block, or transmission (4.0L only). To avoid
damage, be sure to remove the sensor before
removing the transmission.
(6) Remove the bolts holding the bell housing
brace to the transmission.
(7) Remove nut holding the bell housing brace to
the engine to transmission bending brace.
(8) Remove the bell housing brace from the trans-
mission (Fig. 13).
(9) Remove the bolt holding the torque converter
cover to the transmission.
(10) Remove the torque converter cover from the
transmission.
(11) If transmission is being removed for overhaul,
remove transmission oil pan, drain fluid and reinstall
pan.
(12) Remove fill tube bracket bolts and pull tube
out of transmission. Retain fill tube seal. On4x4
models, it will also be necessary to remove bolt
attaching transfer case vent tube to converter hous-
ing.
(13) Rotate crankshaft in clockwise direction until
converter bolts are accessible. Then remove bolts one
at a time. Rotate crankshaft with socket wrench on
dampener bolt.(14) Mark propeller shaft and axle yokes for
assembly alignment. Then disconnect and remove
propeller shaft. On4x4models, remove both propel-
ler shafts.
(15) Disconnect wires from park/neutral position
switch and transmission solenoid.
(16) Disconnect gearshift cable from transmission
manual valve lever (Fig. 14).
Fig. 13 Bell Housing Brace and Converter Cover
1 - Transmission
2 - Torque Converter Cover
3 - Bellhousing Brace
Fig. 14 Transmission Shift Cable
1 - SHIFT CABLE
2 - MANUAL LEVER
3 - MANUAL LEVER
WJAUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 42RE 21 - 27
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 42RE (Continued)