2002 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE parts

CAL/REAR WIPERS/WASHERS - CLEANING). If
after cleaning the wiper blade and the glass, the
wiper blade fails to clear the glass without smearing,
streaking, chattering, hazing, or beading, replace the
wiper blade. Also, if a wiper blade is damaged or if
the squeegee rubber is damaged or deteriorated,
replace the wiper blade with a new unit. Do not
attempt to repair a wiper blade that is damaged.
WASHER SYSTEM
The washer system components should be
inspected periodically, not just when washer perfor-
mance problems are experienced. This inspection
should include the following points:
(1) Check for ice or other foreign material in the
washer reservoir. If contaminated, clean and flush
the washer system. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
REAR WIPERS/WASHERS - CLEANING).
(2) Inspect the washer plumbing for pinched, leak-
ing, deteriorated, or incorrectly routed hoses and
damaged or disconnected hose fittings. Replace dam-
aged or deteriorated hoses and hose fittings. Leaking
washer hoses can sometimes be repaired by cutting
the hose at the leak and splicing it back togetherusing an in-line connector fitting. Similarly, sections
of deteriorated hose can be cut out and replaced by
splicing in new sections of hose using in-line connec-
tor fittings. Whenever routing a washer hose or a
wire harness containing a washer hose, it must be
routed away from hot, sharp, or moving parts. Also,
sharp bends that might pinch the washer hose must
be avoided.
REAR WASHER HOSES/TUBES
DESCRIPTION
The rear washer plumbing consists of small diam-
eter rubber hoses and molded plastic inline connector
fittings (Fig. 2). The washer reservoir hose is con-
nected to the barbed outlet nipple of the rear washer
pump/motor unit below the left front wheel house
extension and routed up the washer reservoir filler
neck to the engine compartment. Just rearward of
the washer reservoir filler neck in the engine com-
partment, an inline connector with barbed nipples
joins the reservoir hose to the engine compartment
hose. The engine compartment hose is routed along
the top of the left front fender wheel house to the
dash panel. The engine compartment hose passes
through a hole with a rubber grommet in the dash
panel into the passenger compartment. Below the
instrument panel in the passenger compartment near
the left cowl side inner panel, another inline connec-
tor joins the engine compartment hose to the A-pillar
hose. The A-pillar hose is routed up the left A-pillar
to the headliner. At the headliner, an inline connector
joins the A-pillar hose to the headliner hose. The
headliner hose is routed above the headliner and
Fig. 1 Wiper Blade Inspection
1 - WORN OR UNEVEN EDGES
2 - ROAD FILM OR FOREIGN MATERIAL DEPOSITS
3 - HARD, BRITTLE, OR CRACKED
4 - DEFORMED OR FATIGUED
5 - SPLIT
6 - DAMAGED SUPPORT COMPONENTS
Fig. 2 Rear Washer Plumbing
1 - UPPER COWL PLENUM PANEL
2 - WASHER HOSE FROM ENGINE COMPARTMENT
3 - A-PILLAR WASHER HOSE
4 - HEADLINER WASHER HOSE
8R - 38 REAR WIPERS/WASHERSWJ
REAR WIPERS/WASHERS (Continued)

along the left roof side rail to the rear of the vehicle.
At the rear of the vehicle, the headliner hose is
routed above the headliner and along the upper lift-
gate opening panel toward the right side of the vehi-
cle. The headliner hose then passes through a hole
with a rubber grommet in the upper liftgate opening
panel and through another hole with a rubber grom-
met into the upper inner liftgate panel to the rear
washer nozzle.
Washer hose is available for service only as roll
stock, which must then be cut to length. The head-
liner washer hose is integral to the headliner unit
and, if faulty or damaged, the headliner unit must be
replaced. The molded plastic washer hose fittings
cannot be repaired. If these fittings are faulty or
damaged, they must be replaced.
OPERATION
Washer fluid in the washer reservoir is pressurized
and fed by the rear washer pump/motor through the
rear washer system plumbing and fittings to the rear
washer nozzle on the liftgate outer panel above the
liftgate glass. Whenever routing the washer hose or a
wire harness containing a washer hose, it must be
routed away from hot, sharp, or moving parts; and,
sharp bends that might pinch the hose must be
avoided.
REAR WASHER NOZZLE
DESCRIPTION
The rear washer nozzle is a fluidic type unit that
includes an integral check valve (Fig. 3). The nozzle
is constructed of molded plastic and has a rubber
seal and integral snap features on the back of it. The
nozzle is secured by a snap fit in a dedicated mount-
ing hole in the liftgate outer panel above the liftgate
flip-up glass. Within the rear nozzle body, a small
check ball is held against an integral valve seat at
the inlet end of the nozzle by a small coiled spring.
The rear washer nozzle and check valve unit cannot
be adjusted or repaired. If faulty or damaged, the
entire nozzle and check valve unit must be replaced.
OPERATION
The rear washer nozzle is designed to dispense
washer fluid into the wiper pattern area on the out-
side of the liftgate glass. Pressurized washer fluid is
fed to the nozzle from the washer reservoir by the
rear washer pump/motor through a single hose,
which is attached to a barbed nipple on the back of
the rear washer nozzle. The rear washer nozzle
incorporates a fluidic design, which causes the nozzle
to emit the pressurized washer fluid as an oscillating
stream to more effectively cover a larger area of the
glass area to be cleaned. The integral rear nozzle
check valve prevents washer fluid from draining out
of the rear washer supply hoses back to the washer
reservoir. This drain-back would result in a lengthy
delay from when the rear washer switch is actuated
until washer fluid was dispensed through the rear
washer nozzle, because the rear washer pump would
have to refill the rear washer plumbing from the res-
ervoir to the nozzle. The check valve also prevents
washer fluid from siphoning through the rear washer
nozzle after the rear washer system is turned Off.
When the rear washer pump pressurizes and pumps
washer fluid from the reservoir through the rear
washer plumbing, the fluid pressure overrides the
spring pressure applied to the check ball within the
valve and unseats the check ball, allowing washer
fluid to flow to the rear washer nozzle. When the
rear washer pump stops operating, spring pressure
seats the check ball in the valve and fluid flow in
either direction within the rear washer plumbing is
prevented.
REMOVAL
The check valve for the rear washer nozzle is inte-
gral to the nozzle.
(1) Using a trim stick or another suitable wide
flat-bladed tool, gently pry at the sides of the rear
washer nozzle to release the snap features that
secure it in the mounting hole of the liftgate outer
panel.
Fig. 3 Rear Washer Nozzle
1 - HEADLINER WASHER HOSE
2 - ROOF PANEL
3 - REAR WASHER NOZZLE
4 - LIFTGATE
WJREAR WIPERS/WASHERS 8R - 39
REAR WASHER HOSES/TUBES (Continued)

DESCRIPTION - CONNECTOR, GROUND AND
SPLICE INFORMATION
CAUTION: Not all connectors are serviced. Some
connectors are serviced only with a harness. A typ-
ical example might be the Supplemental Restraint
System connectors. Always check parts availability
before attempting a repair.
IDENTIFICATION
In-line connectors are identified by a number, as
follows:
²In-line connectors located in the engine compart-
ment are C100 series numbers
²In-line connectors located in the Instrument
Panel area are C200 series numbers.
²In-line connectors located in the body are C300
series numbers.
²Jumper harness connectors are C400 series
numbers.
²Grounds and ground connectors are identified
with a ªGº and follow the same series numbering as
the in-line connectors.
²Splices are identified with an ªSº and follow the
same series numbering as the in-line connectors.
²Component connectors are identified by the com-
ponent name instead of a number. Multiple connec-
tors on a component use a C1, C2, etc. identifier.
LOCATIONS
Section 8W-91 contains connector/ground/splice
location illustrations. The illustrations contain the
connector name (or number)/ground number/splice
number and component identification. Connector/
ground/splice location charts in section 8W-91 refer-
ence the figure numbers of the illustrations.
The abbreviation T/O is used in the component
location section to indicate a point in which the wir-
ing harness branches out to a component. The abbre-
viation N/S means Not Shown in the illustrations
WARNING
WARNINGS - GENERAL
WARNINGSprovide information to prevent per-
sonal injury and vehicle damage. Below is a list of
general warnings that should be followed any time a
vehicle is being serviced.
WARNING: ALWAYS WEAR SAFETY GLASSES FOR
EYE PROTECTION.
WARNING: USE SAFETY STANDS ANYTIME A PRO-
CEDURE REQUIRES BEING UNDER A VEHICLE.WARNING: BE SURE THAT THE IGNITION SWITCH
ALWAYS IS IN THE OFF POSITION, UNLESS THE
PROCEDURE REQUIRES IT TO BE ON.
WARNING: SET THE PARKING BRAKE WHEN
WORKING ON ANY VEHICLE. AN AUTOMATIC
TRANSMISSION SHOULD BE IN PARK. A MANUAL
TRANSMISSION SHOULD BE IN NEUTRAL.
WARNING: OPERATE THE ENGINE ONLY IN A
WELL-VENTILATED AREA.
WARNING: KEEP AWAY FROM MOVING PARTS
WHEN THE ENGINE IS RUNNING, ESPECIALLY THE
FAN AND BELTS.
WARNING: TO PREVENT SERIOUS BURNS, AVOID
CONTACT WITH HOT PARTS SUCH AS THE RADIA-
TOR, EXHAUST MANIFOLD(S), TAIL PIPE, CATA-
LYTIC CONVERTER AND MUFFLER.
WARNING: DO NOT ALLOW FLAME OR SPARKS
NEAR THE BATTERY. GASES ARE ALWAYS
PRESENT IN AND AROUND THE BATTERY.
WARNING: ALWAYS REMOVE RINGS, WATCHES,
LOOSE HANGING JEWELRY AND AVOID LOOSE
CLOTHING.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - WIRING HARNESS
TROUBLESHOOTING TOOLS
When diagnosing a problem in an electrical circuit
there are several common tools necessary. These tools
are listed and explained below.
²Jumper Wire - This is a test wire used to con-
nect two points of a circuit. It can be used to bypass
an open in a circuit.
WARNING: NEVER USE A JUMPER WIRE ACROSS
A LOAD, SUCH AS A MOTOR, CONNECTED
BETWEEN A BATTERY FEED AND GROUND.
²Voltmeter - Used to check for voltage on a cir-
cuit. Always connect the black lead to a known good
ground and the red lead to the positive side of the
circuit.
CAUTION: Most of the electrical components used
in today's vehicles are Solid State. When checking
voltages in these circuits, use a meter with a 10 -
megohm or greater impedance rating.
WJ8W-01 WIRING DIAGRAM INFORMATION 8W - 01 - 7
WIRING DIAGRAM INFORMATION (Continued)

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
3. Worn or incorrect gapped spark
plugs3. Clean plugs and set gap. (Refer to
8 - ELECTRICAL/IGNITION
CONTROL/SPARK PLUG -
CLEANING).
4. Dirt or water in fuel system 4. Clean system and replace fuel
filter
5. Faulty fuel pump 5. Install new fuel pump
6. Incorrect valve timing 6. Correct valve timing
7. Blown cylinder head gasket 7. Install new cylinder head gasket
8. Low compression 8. Test cylinder compression. (Refer
to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING).
9. Burned, warped, or pitted valves 9. Install/Reface valves as necessary
10. Plugged or restricted exhaust
system10. Install new parts as necessary
11. Faulty ignition coil rail 11. Test and replace, as necessary.
(Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/IGNITION
CONTROL/COIL RAIL - REMOVAL).
ENGINE STALLS OR ROUGH
IDLE1. Carbon build-up on throttle plate 1. Remove throttle body and
de-carbon. (Refer to 14 - FUEL
SYSTEM/FUEL INJECTION/
THROTTLE BODY - REMOVAL) for
correct procedure.
2. Engine idle speed too low 2. Check Idle Air Control circuit.
3. Worn or incorrectly gapped spark
plugs3. Replace or clean and re-gap spark
plugs. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
IGNITION CONTROL/SPARK PLUG
- CLEANING)
4. Faulty coil rail 4. Test and replace, if necessary.
(Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/IGNITION
CONTROL/COIL RAIL - REMOVAL)
5. Intake manifold vacuum leak 5. Inspect intake manifold gasket and
vacuum hoses. Replace if necessary.
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/MANIFOLDS/
INTAKE MANIFOLD - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING).
ENGINE MISSES ON
ACCELERATION1. Worn or incorrectly gapped spark
plugs1. Replace spark plugs or clean and
set gap.
2. Spark plug cables defective or
crossed2. Replace spark plug cables.
3. Dirt in fuel system 3. Clean fuel system
4. Burned, warped or pitted valves 4. Install new valves
5. Faulty coil rail 5. Test and replace as necessary.
(Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/IGNITION
CONTROL/COIL RAIL - REMOVAL)
WJENGINE - 4.0L 9 - 5
ENGINE - 4.0L (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐREAR SEAL AREA
LEAKS
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the
source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the
engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. The
following steps should be followed to help pinpoint
the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal
area:
(1) Disconnect the battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
(3) Remove torque converter or clutch housing
cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil.
Use a black light to check for the oil leak:
(a) Circular spray pattern generally indicates
seal leakage or crankshaft damage.
(b) Where leakage tends to run straight down,
possible causes are a porous block, distributor seal,
camshaft bore cup plugs, oil galley pipe plugs, oil
filter runoff, and main bearing cap to cylinder
block mating surfaces.
(4) If no leaks are detected, pressurized the crank-
case as outlined in (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRICA-
TION - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING)
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
(5) If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the
crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is
detected between the crankshaft and seal while
slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the
crankshaft seal surface is damaged. The seal area on
the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches
that can be polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft
polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks or
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is specially
machined to complement the function of the rear oil
seal.
(6) For bubbles that remain steady with shaft
rotation, no further inspection can be done until dis-
assembled. Refer to the service DiagnosisÐMechani-
cal, under the Oil Leak row, for components
inspections on possible causes and corrections.
(7) After the oil leak root cause and appropriate
corrective action have been identified, (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/CRANKSHAFT OIL
SEAL - REAR - REMOVAL), for proper replacement
procedures.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - FORM-IN-PLACE
GASKETS AND SEALERS
There are numerous places where form-in-place
gaskets are used on the engine. Care must be taken
when applying form-in-place gaskets to assure
obtaining the desired results.Do not use form-in-
place gasket material unless specified.Bead size,
continuity, and location are of great importance. Too
thin a bead can result in leakage while too much can
result in spill-over which can break off and obstruct
fluid feed lines. A continuous bead of the proper
width is essential to obtain a leak-free gasket.
There are numerous types of form-in-place gasket
materials that are used in the engine area. Mopart
Engine RTV GEN II, MopartATF-RTV, and Mopart
Gasket Maker gasket materials, each have different
properties and can not be used in place of the other.
MOPARtENGINE RTV GEN II
MopartEngine RTV GEN II is used to seal com-
ponents exposed to engine oil. This material is a spe-
cially designed black silicone rubber RTV that
retains adhesion and sealing properties when
exposed to engine oil. Moisture in the air causes the
material to cure. This material is available in three
ounce tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one
year this material will not properly cure. Always
inspect the package for the expiration date before
use.
MOPARtATF RTV
MopartATF RTV is a specifically designed black
silicone rubber RTV that retains adhesion and seal-
ing properties to seal components exposed to auto-
matic transmission fluid, engine coolants, and
moisture. This material is available in three ounce
tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one year
this material will not properly cure. Always inspect
the package for the expiration date before use.
MOPARtGASKET MAKER
MopartGasket Maker is an anaerobic type gasket
material. The material cures in the absence of air
when squeezed between two metallic surfaces. It will
not cure if left in the uncovered tube. The anaerobic
material is for use between two machined surfaces.
Do not use on flexible metal flanges.
MOPARtGASKET SEALANT
MopartGasket Sealant is a slow drying, perma-
nently soft sealer. This material is recommended for
sealing threaded fittings and gaskets against leakage
of oil and coolant. Can be used on threaded and
machined parts under all temperatures. This mate-
rial is used on engines with multi-layer steel (MLS)
cylinder head gaskets. This material also will pre-
vent corrosion. MopartGasket Sealant is available in
a 13 oz. aerosol can or 4oz./16 oz. can w/applicator.
WJENGINE - 4.0L 9 - 9
ENGINE - 4.0L (Continued)

FORM-IN-PLACE GASKET AND SEALER
APPLICATION
Assembling parts using a form-in-place gasket
requires care but it's easier then using precut gaskets.
MopartGasket Maker material should be applied
sparingly 1 mm (0.040 in.) diameter or less of sealant
to one gasket surface. Be certain the material sur-
rounds each mounting hole. Excess material can eas-
ily be wiped off. Components should be torqued in
place within 15 minutes. The use of a locating dowel
is recommended during assembly to prevent smear-
ing material off the location.
MopartEngine RTV GEN II or ATF RTV gasket
material should be applied in a continuous bead
approximately 3 mm (0.120 in.) in diameter. All
mounting holes must be circled. For corner sealing, a
3.17 or 6.35 mm (1/8 or 1/4 in.) drop is placed in the
center of the gasket contact area. Uncured sealant
may be removed with a shop towel. Components
should be torqued in place while the sealant is still
wet to the touch (within 10 minutes). The usage of a
locating dowel is recommended during assembly to
prevent smearing material off the location.
MopartGasket Sealant in an aerosol can should be
applied using a thin, even coat sprayed completely
over both surfaces to be joined, and both sides of a
gasket. Then proceed with assembly. Material in a
can w/applicator can be brushed on evenly over the
sealing surfaces. Material in an aerosol can should be
used on engines with multi-layer steel gaskets.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - REPAIR DAMAGED
OR WORN THREADS
CAUTION: Be sure that the tapped holes maintain
the original center line.
Damaged or worn threads can be repaired. Essen-
tially, this repair consists of:
²Drilling out worn or damaged threads.
²Tapping the hole with a special Heli-Coil Tap, or
equivalent.
²Installing an insert into the tapped hole to bring
the hole back to its original thread size.
STANDARD PROCEDUREÐHYDROSTATIC LOCK
CAUTION: DO NOT use the starter motor to rotate
the crankshaft. Severe damage could occur.
When an engine is suspected of hydrostatic lock
(regardless of what caused the problem), follow the
steps below.
(1) Perform the Fuel Pressure Release Procedure
(Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).(2) Disconnect the negative cable(s) from the bat-
tery.
(3) Inspect air cleaner, induction system, and
intake manifold to ensure system is dry and clear of
foreign material.
(4) Place a shop towel around the spark plugs to
catch any fluid that may possibly be under pressure
in the cylinder head. Remove the spark plugs.
(5) With all spark plugs removed, rotate the crank-
shaft using a breaker bar and socket.
(6) Identify the fluid in the cylinders (coolant, fuel,
oil, etc.).
(7) Be sure all fluid has been removed from the
cylinders.
(8) Repair engine or components as necessary to
prevent this problem from occurring again.
(9) Squirt a small amount of engine oil into the
cylinders to lubricate the walls. This will prevent
damage on restart.
(10) Install new spark plugs. Tighten the spark
plugs to 41 N´m (30 ft. lbs.) torque.
(11) Drain engine oil. Remove and discard the oil
filter.
(12) Install the drain plug. Tighten the plug to 34
N´m (25 ft. lbs.) torque.
(13) Install a new oil filter.
(14) Fill engine crankcase with the specified
amount and grade of oil. (Refer to LUBRICATION &
MAINTENANCE - SPECIFICATIONS).
(15) Connect the negative cable(s) to the battery.
(16) Start the engine and check for any leaks.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - CYLINDER BORE
HONING
Before honing, stuff plenty of clean shop towels
under the bores and over the crankshaft to keep
abrasive materials from entering the crankshaft
area.
(1)
Used carefully, the Cylinder Bore Sizing Hone
C-823, equipped with 220 grit stones, is the best tool
for this job. In addition to deglazing, it will reduce
taper and out-of-round, as well as removing light scuff-
ing, scoring and scratches. Usually, a few strokes will
clean up a bore and maintain the required limits.
CAUTION: DO NOT use rigid type hones to remove
cylinder wall glaze.
(2) Deglazing of the cylinder walls may be done if
the cylinder bore is straight and round. Use a cylin-
der surfacing hone, Honing Tool C-3501, equipped
with 280 grit stones (C-3501-3810). about 20-60
strokes, depending on the bore condition, will be suf-
ficient to provide a satisfactory surface. Using honing
oil C-3501-3880, or a light honing oil, available from
major oil distributors.
9 - 10 ENGINE - 4.0LWJ
ENGINE - 4.0L (Continued)

CAUTION: DO NOT use engine or transmission oil,
mineral spirits, or kerosene.
(3) Honing should be done by moving the hone up
and down fast enough to get a crosshatch pattern.
The hone marks should INTERSECT at 40É to 60É
for proper seating of rings (Fig. 3).
(4) A controlled hone motor speed between 200 and
300 RPM is necessary to obtain the proper cross-
hatch angle. The number of up and down strokes per
minute can be regulated to get the desired 40É to 60É
angle. Faster up and down strokes increase the cross-
hatch angle.
(5) After honing, it is necessary that the block be
cleaned to remove all traces of abrasive. Use a brush
to wash parts with a solution of hot water and deter-
gent. Dry parts thoroughly. Use a clean, white, lint-
free cloth to check that the bore is clean. Oil the
bores after cleaning to prevent rusting.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ENGINE CORE AND
OIL GALLERY PLUGS
Using a blunt tool such as a drift and a hammer,
strike the bottom edge of the cup plug. With the cup
plug rotated, grasp firmly with pliers or other suit-
able tool and remove plug (Fig. 4).CAUTION: Do not drive cup plug into the casting as
restricted cooling can result and cause serious
engine problems.
Thoroughly clean inside of cup plug hole in cylin-
der block or head. Be sure to remove old sealer.
Lightly coat inside of cup plug hole with Mopart
Stud and Bearing Mount. Make certain the new plug
is cleaned of all oil or grease. Using proper drive
plug, drive plug into hole so that the sharp edge of
the plug is at least 0.5 mm (0.020 in.) inside the
lead-in chamfer.
It is not necessary to wait for curing of the sealant.
The cooling system can be refilled and the vehicle
placed in service immediately.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cable.
(2) Mark the hinge locations on the hood panel for
alignment reference during installation. Remove the
engine compartment lamp. Remove the hood.
(3) Remove the radiator drain cock and radiator
cap to drain the coolant. DO NOT waste usable cool-
ant. If the solution is clean, drain the coolant into a
clean container for reuse.
(4) Remove the upper radiator hose and coolant
recovery hose.
(5) Remove the lower radiator hose.
(6) Remove upper radiator support retaining bolts
and remove radiator support.
Fig. 3 Cylinder Bore Crosshatch Pattern
1 - CROSSHATCH PATTERN
2 - INTERSECT ANGLE
Fig. 4 Core Hole Plug Removal
1 - CYLINDER BLOCK
2 - REMOVE PLUG WITH PLIERS
3 - STRIKE HERE WITH HAMMER
4 - DRIFT PUNCH
5 - CUP PLUG
WJENGINE - 4.0L 9 - 11
ENGINE - 4.0L (Continued)

(e) If end play is not within specification, inspect
crankshaft thrust faces for wear. If no wear is
apparent, replace the thrust bearing and measure
end play. If end play is still not within specifica-
tion, replace the crankshaft.
(11) If the crankshaft was removed, install the
crankshaft into the cylinder block.
(12) Install main bearing cap brace tighten nuts to
47 N´m (35 ft. lbs.) torque.
(13) Install oil pump assy. and tighten attaching
bolts to 23 N´m (17 ft. lbs.)
(14) Install the oil pan (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL PAN - INSTALLATION).
(15) Install the drain plug. Tighten the plug to 34
N´m (25 ft. lbs.) torque.
(16) Lower the vehicle.
(17) Install the spark plugs. Tighten the plugs to
37 N´m (27 ft. lbs.) torque.
(18) Fill the oil pan with engine oil to the full
mark on the dipstick level.
(19) Connect negative cable to battery.
CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL -
FRONT
REMOVAL
This procedure is done with the timing case cover
installed.
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Remove the serpentine drive belt (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
REMOVAL).(3) Remove the vibration damper (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION DAMPER -
REMOVAL).
(4) Remove the radiator shroud.
(5) Carefully remove the oil seal. Make sure seal
bore is clean.
INSTALLATION
This procedure is done with the timing case cover
installed.
(1) Position the replacement oil seal on Timing
Case Cover Alignment and Seal Installation Tool
6139 with seal open end facing inward. Apply a light
film of Perfect Seal, or equivalent, on the outside
diameter of the seal. Lightly coat the crankshaft with
engine oil.
(2) Position the tool and seal over the end of the
crankshaft and insert a draw screw tool into Seal
Installation Tool 6139 (Fig. 50). Tighten the nut
against the tool until it contacts the cover.
(3) Remove the tools. Apply a light film of engine
oil on the vibration damper hub contact surface of
the seal.
(4) Apply MopartSilicone Rubber Adhesive Seal-
ant to the keyway in the crankshaft and insert the
key. With the key inserted in the keyway in the
crankshaft, install the vibration damper (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION DAMPER -
INSTALLATION).
(5) Install the serpentine belt (Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - INSTAL-
LATION).
(6) Install the radiator shroud.
(7) Connect negative cable to battery.
Fig. 49 Crankshaft End Play Measurement
1 - DIAL INDICATOR
2 - CRANKSHAFT
Fig. 50 Timing Case Cover Oil Seal Installation
1 - SEAL INSTALLATION TOOL
2 - DRAW SCREW TOOL
WJENGINE - 4.0L 9 - 41
CRANKSHAFT MAIN BEARINGS (Continued)