SEAT BELT TURNING LOOP
ADJUSTER
REMOVAL
WARNING: DURING AND FOLLOWING ANY SEAT
BELT SERVICE, CAREFULLY INSPECT ALL SEAT
BELTS, BUCKLES, MOUNTING HARDWARE, AND
RETRACTORS FOR PROPER INSTALLATION,
OPERATION, OR DAMAGE. REPLACE ANY BELT
THAT IS CUT, FRAYED, OR TORN. STRAIGHTEN
ANY BELT THAT IS TWISTED. TIGHTEN ANY
LOOSE FASTENERS. REPLACE ANY BELT THAT
HAS A DAMAGED OR INOPERATIVE BUCKLE OR
RETRACTOR. REPLACE ANY BELT THAT HAS A
BENT OR DAMAGED LATCH PLATE OR ANCHOR
PLATE. NEVER ATTEMPT TO REPAIR A SEAT BELT
COMPONENT. ALWAYS REPLACE DAMAGED OR
FAULTY SEAT BELT COMPONENTS WITH THE COR-
RECT, NEW AND UNUSED REPLACEMENT PARTS
LISTED IN THE MOPAR PARTS CATALOG.
(1) Remove the turning loop from the front or rear
seat belt turning loop adjuster. (Refer to 8 - ELEC-
TRICAL/RESTRAINTS/FRONT SEAT BELT &
RETRACTOR - REMOVAL) or (Refer to 8 - ELEC-
TRICAL/RESTRAINTS/REAR OUTBOARD SEAT
BELT & RETRACTOR - REMOVAL).
(2) Remove the trim from the upper B-pillar (front
seat belt adjuster) or upper C-pillar (rear seat belt
adjuster). (Refer to 23 - BODY/INTERIOR/B-PILLAR
UPPER TRIM - REMOVAL) or (Refer to 23 - BODY/
INTERIOR/C-PILLAR TRIM - REMOVAL).
(3) Remove the screw that secures the upper end
of the front or rear turning loop adjuster to the pillar
(Fig. 41).
(4) Pull the upper end of the turning loop adjuster
away from the pillar far enough to disengage the
hooks on the lower end of the adjuster from the slots
in the pillar.
(5) Remove the turning loop adjuster from the
B-pillar (front seat belt) or C-pillar (rear seat belt).
INSTALLATION
WARNING: DURING AND FOLLOWING ANY SEAT
BELT SERVICE, CAREFULLY INSPECT ALL SEAT
BELTS, BUCKLES, MOUNTING HARDWARE, AND
RETRACTORS FOR PROPER INSTALLATION,
OPERATION, OR DAMAGE. REPLACE ANY BELT
THAT IS CUT, FRAYED, OR TORN. STRAIGHTEN
ANY BELT THAT IS TWISTED. TIGHTEN ANY
LOOSE FASTENERS. REPLACE ANY BELT THATHAS A DAMAGED OR INOPERATIVE BUCKLE OR
RETRACTOR. REPLACE ANY BELT THAT HAS A
BENT OR DAMAGED LATCH PLATE OR ANCHOR
PLATE. NEVER ATTEMPT TO REPAIR A SEAT BELT
COMPONENT. ALWAYS REPLACE DAMAGED OR
FAULTY SEAT BELT COMPONENTS WITH THE COR-
RECT, NEW AND UNUSED REPLACEMENT PARTS
LISTED IN THE MOPAR PARTS CATALOG.
(1) Position the turning loop adjuster to the B-pil-
lar (front seat belt) or C-pillar (rear seat belt).
(2) Engage the hooks on the lower end of the
adjuster into the slots in the pillar (Fig. 41).
(3) Tilt the upper end of the turning loop adjuster
into position against the pillar.
(4) Install and tighten the screw that secures the
upper end of the front or rear height adjuster to the
pillar. Tighten the screw to 43 N´m (32 ft. lbs.).
(5) Reinstall the trim onto the upper B-pillar
(front seat belt adjuster) or upper C-pillar (rear seat
belt adjuster). (Refer to 23 - BODY/INTERIOR/B-
PILLAR UPPER TRIM - INSTALLATION) or (Refer
to 23 - BODY/INTERIOR/C-PILLAR TRIM -
INSTALLATION).
(6) Reinstall the front or rear seat belt turning
loop to the adjuster. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/RE-
STRAINTS/FRONT SEAT BELT & RETRACTOR -
INSTALLATION) or (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/RE-
STRAINTS/REAR OUTBOARD SEAT BELT &
RETRACTOR - INSTALLATION).
Fig. 41 Seat Belt Turning Loop Adjuster - Typical
1 - SCREW (1)
2 - ADJUSTER
3 - LEVER
4 - SLOTS (2)
5 - HOOKS (2)
8O - 38 RESTRAINTSWJ
(2) Raise and support the vehicle.
(3) Remove the liner from the left front fender
wheel house.
(4) Disconnect the left headlamp and dash wire
harness connector for the front washer pump/motor
from the motor connector receptacle (Fig. 6).
(5) Disconnect the washer hose from the barbed
outlet nipple of the front washer pump/motor and
allow the washer fluid to drain into a clean container
for reuse.
(6) Using a trim stick or another suitable wide
flat-bladed tool, gently pry the barbed inlet nipple of
the washer pump out of the rubber grommet seal in
the reservoir. Care must be taken not to damage the
reservoir.
(7) Remove the rubber grommet seal from the
washer pump mounting hole in the washer reservoir
and discard.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install a new rubber grommet seal into the
washer pump mounting hole in the washer reservoir.
Always use a new rubber grommet seal on the reser-
voir.
(2) Position the barbed inlet nipple of the washer
pump to the rubber grommet seal in the reservoir
(Fig. 6).
(3) Press firmly and evenly on the washer pump
until the barbed inlet nipple is fully seated in the
rubber grommet seal in the washer reservoir mount-
ing hole.(4) Reconnect the washer hose to the barbed outlet
nipple of the washer pump.
(5) Reconnect the left headlamp and dash wire
harness connector for the front washer pump/motor
unit to the motor connector receptacle.
(6) Reinstall the liner into the left front fender
wheel house.
(7) Lower the vehicle.
(8) Refill the washer reservoir with the washer
fluid drained from the reservoir during the removal
procedure.
(9) Reconnect the battery negative cable.
FRONT WIPER ARM
DESCRIPTION
The front wiper arms are the rigid members
located between the wiper pivots that protrude from
the cowl plenum cover/grille panel near the base of
the windshield and the wiper blades on the wind-
shield glass. These wiper arms feature an over-center
hinge that allows easy access to the windshield glass
for cleaning. The wiper arm has a die cast metal
pivot end with a large mounting hole with internal
serrations at one end. A molded black plastic cap fits
over the wiper arm retaining nut to conceal the nut
and this mounting hole following wiper arm installa-
tion. The wide end of a tapered, stamped steel chan-
nel hinges on and is secured with a hinge pin to the
blade end of the wiper arm pivot end. One end of a
long, rigid, stamped steel strap, with a small hole
near its pivot end, is riveted and crimped within the
narrow end of the stamped steel channel. The tip of
the wiper blade end of this strap is bent back under
itself to form a small hook. Concealed within the
stamped steel channel, one end of a long spring is
engaged with a wire hook on the underside of the die
cast pivot end, while the other end of the spring is
hooked through the small hole in the steel strap. The
entire wiper arm has a satin black finish applied to
all of its visible surfaces.
A wiper arm cannot be adjusted or repaired. If
damaged or faulty, the entire wiper arm unit must be
replaced.
OPERATION
The front wiper arms are designed to mechanically
transmit the motion from the wiper pivots to the
wiper blades. The wiper arm must be properly
indexed to the wiper pivot in order to maintain the
proper wiper blade travel on the glass. The mounting
hole formation with internal serrations in the wiper
arm pivot end interlocks with the serrations on the
outer circumference of the wiper pivot driver, allow-
ing positive engagement and finite adjustment of this
Fig. 6 Washer Pumps (Viewed from Bottom of
Reservoir)
1 - REAR WASHER PUMP/MOTOR
2 - FRONT WASHER PUMP/MOTOR
3 - WASHER FLUID LEVEL SWITCH
WJFRONT WIPERS/WASHERS 8R - 13
FRONT WASHER PUMP/MOTOR (Continued)
REMOVAL
The washer fluid level switch can be removed from
the washer reservoir without removing the reservoir
from the vehicle.
(1) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative
cable.
(2) Remove the one screw that secures the washer
reservoir filler neck to the left inner fender shield.
(3) Raise and support the vehicle.
(4) Remove the liner from the left front fender
wheel house.
(5) Disconnect the washer hose from the barbed
outlet nipple of the rearmost (front) washer pump/
motor unit and allow the washer fluid to drain into a
clean container for reuse.
(6) Remove the two screws that secure the inboard
mounting flange of the washer reservoir to the left
inner wheel house.
(7) Pull the bottom of the washer reservoir rear-
ward far enough to access the left headlamp and
dash wire harness connector for the washer fluid
level switch on the front of the reservoir.
(8) Disconnect the left headlamp and dash wire
harness connector for the washer fluid level switch
from the switch connector receptacle.
(9) Using a trim stick or another suitable wide
flat-bladed tool, gently pry the barbed nipple of the
washer fluid level switch out of the rubber grommet
seal on the front of the reservoir (Fig. 21). Care must
be taken not to damage the reservoir.
(10) Remove the washer fluid level switch and
float from the washer reservoir.
(11) Remove the rubber grommet seal from the
washer fluid level switch mounting hole in the
washer reservoir and discard.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install a new rubber grommet seal into the
washer fluid level switch mounting hole in the front
of the washer reservoir. Always use a new rubber
grommet seal on the reservoir.
(2) Position the float of the washer fluid level
switch through the rubber grommet seal in the
washer reservoir (Fig. 21). The connector receptacle
of the washer fluid level switch should be pointed
downward.
(3) Press firmly and evenly on the washer fluid
level switch using hand pressure until the barbed
nipple is fully seated in the rubber grommet seal in
the washer reservoir mounting hole.(4) Reconnect the left headlamp and dash wire
harness connector for the washer fluid level switch to
the switch connector receptacle.
(5) Reconnect the washer hose to the barbed outlet
nipple of the front washer pump/motor unit.
(6) Install and tighten the two screws that secure
the inboard mounting flange of the washer reservoir
to the left inner wheel house. Tighten the screws to
7.4 N´m (66 in. lbs.).
(7) Reinstall the liner into the left front fender
wheel house.
(8) Lower the vehicle.
(9) Install and tighten the one screw that secures
the washer reservoir filler neck to the left inner
fender shield. Tighten the screw to 7.4 N´m (66 in.
lbs.).
(10) Fill the washer reservoir with the washer
fluid drained from the reservoir during the removal
procedure.
(11) Reconnect the battery negative cable.
Fig. 21 Washer Fluid Level Switch Remove/Install
1 - WASHER RESERVOIR
2 - WASHER FLUID LEVEL SWITCH
3 - GROMMET SEAL
8R - 26 FRONT WIPERS/WASHERSWJ
WASHER FLUID LEVEL SWITCH (Continued)
along the left roof side rail to the rear of the vehicle.
At the rear of the vehicle, the headliner hose is
routed above the headliner and along the upper lift-
gate opening panel toward the right side of the vehi-
cle. The headliner hose then passes through a hole
with a rubber grommet in the upper liftgate opening
panel and through another hole with a rubber grom-
met into the upper inner liftgate panel to the rear
washer nozzle.
Washer hose is available for service only as roll
stock, which must then be cut to length. The head-
liner washer hose is integral to the headliner unit
and, if faulty or damaged, the headliner unit must be
replaced. The molded plastic washer hose fittings
cannot be repaired. If these fittings are faulty or
damaged, they must be replaced.
OPERATION
Washer fluid in the washer reservoir is pressurized
and fed by the rear washer pump/motor through the
rear washer system plumbing and fittings to the rear
washer nozzle on the liftgate outer panel above the
liftgate glass. Whenever routing the washer hose or a
wire harness containing a washer hose, it must be
routed away from hot, sharp, or moving parts; and,
sharp bends that might pinch the hose must be
avoided.
REAR WASHER NOZZLE
DESCRIPTION
The rear washer nozzle is a fluidic type unit that
includes an integral check valve (Fig. 3). The nozzle
is constructed of molded plastic and has a rubber
seal and integral snap features on the back of it. The
nozzle is secured by a snap fit in a dedicated mount-
ing hole in the liftgate outer panel above the liftgate
flip-up glass. Within the rear nozzle body, a small
check ball is held against an integral valve seat at
the inlet end of the nozzle by a small coiled spring.
The rear washer nozzle and check valve unit cannot
be adjusted or repaired. If faulty or damaged, the
entire nozzle and check valve unit must be replaced.
OPERATION
The rear washer nozzle is designed to dispense
washer fluid into the wiper pattern area on the out-
side of the liftgate glass. Pressurized washer fluid is
fed to the nozzle from the washer reservoir by the
rear washer pump/motor through a single hose,
which is attached to a barbed nipple on the back of
the rear washer nozzle. The rear washer nozzle
incorporates a fluidic design, which causes the nozzle
to emit the pressurized washer fluid as an oscillating
stream to more effectively cover a larger area of the
glass area to be cleaned. The integral rear nozzle
check valve prevents washer fluid from draining out
of the rear washer supply hoses back to the washer
reservoir. This drain-back would result in a lengthy
delay from when the rear washer switch is actuated
until washer fluid was dispensed through the rear
washer nozzle, because the rear washer pump would
have to refill the rear washer plumbing from the res-
ervoir to the nozzle. The check valve also prevents
washer fluid from siphoning through the rear washer
nozzle after the rear washer system is turned Off.
When the rear washer pump pressurizes and pumps
washer fluid from the reservoir through the rear
washer plumbing, the fluid pressure overrides the
spring pressure applied to the check ball within the
valve and unseats the check ball, allowing washer
fluid to flow to the rear washer nozzle. When the
rear washer pump stops operating, spring pressure
seats the check ball in the valve and fluid flow in
either direction within the rear washer plumbing is
prevented.
REMOVAL
The check valve for the rear washer nozzle is inte-
gral to the nozzle.
(1) Using a trim stick or another suitable wide
flat-bladed tool, gently pry at the sides of the rear
washer nozzle to release the snap features that
secure it in the mounting hole of the liftgate outer
panel.
Fig. 3 Rear Washer Nozzle
1 - HEADLINER WASHER HOSE
2 - ROOF PANEL
3 - REAR WASHER NOZZLE
4 - LIFTGATE
WJREAR WIPERS/WASHERS 8R - 39
REAR WASHER HOSES/TUBES (Continued)
the washer fluid and forces it through the pump out-
let nipple, the rear washer plumbing, and the rear
washer nozzle onto the liftgate glass.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative
cable.
(2) Raise and support the vehicle.
(3) Remove the liner from the left front fender
wheel house.
(4) Disconnect the left headlamp and dash wire
harness connector for the rear washer pump/motor
from the motor connector receptacle (Fig. 6).
(5) Disconnect the washer hose from the barbed
outlet nipple of the rear washer pump/motor and
allow the washer fluid to drain into a clean container
for reuse.
(6) Using a trim stick or another suitable wide
flat-bladed tool, gently pry the barbed inlet nipple of
the washer pump out of the rubber grommet seal in
the reservoir. Care must be taken not to damage the
reservoir.
(7) Remove the rubber grommet seal from the
washer pump mounting hole in the washer reservoir
and discard.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install a new rubber grommet seal into the
washer pump mounting hole in the washer reservoir.
Always use a new rubber grommet seal on the reser-
voir.(2) Position the barbed inlet nipple of the washer
pump to the rubber grommet seal in the reservoir
(Fig. 6).
(3) Press firmly and evenly on the washer pump
until the barbed inlet nipple is fully seated in the
rubber grommet seal in the washer reservoir mount-
ing hole.
(4) Reconnect the washer hose to the barbed outlet
nipple of the washer pump.
(5) Reconnect the left headlamp and dash wire
harness connector for the rear washer pump/motor
unit to the motor connector receptacle.
(6) Reinstall the liner into the left front fender
wheel house.
(7) Lower the vehicle.
(8) Refill the washer reservoir with the washer
fluid drained from the reservoir during the removal
procedure.
(9) Reconnect the battery negative cable.
REAR WIPER ARM
DESCRIPTION
The rear wiper arm is the rigid member located
between the rear wiper motor output shaft that pro-
trudes from the outer liftgate panel near the base of
the liftgate glass opening and the rear wiper blade
(Fig. 7). This wiper arm features an over-center
hinge that allows easy access to the liftgate and lift-
gate glass for cleaning. The wiper arm has a die cast
metal pivot end. This pivot end has a hole in it with
internal serrations and a plastic pivot cover is
Fig. 6 Washer Pumps (Viewed from Bottom of
Reservoir)
1 - REAR WASHER PUMP/MOTOR
2 - FRONT WASHER PUMP/MOTOR
3 - WASHER FLUID LEVEL SWITCH
Fig. 7 Rear Wiper Arm
1 - LIFTGATE
2 - REAR WIPER MOTOR OUTPUT SHAFT
3 - PARK RAMP
4 - PIVOT COVER
5 - REAR WIPER ARM
6 - NUT
WJREAR WIPERS/WASHERS 8R - 41
REAR WASHER PUMP/MOTOR (Continued)
(2) Drain the coolant (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE) and disconnect the hoses
at the engine thermostat housing and the water
pump inlet. DO NOT waste reusable coolant. If the
solution is clean and is being drained only to service
the engine or cooling system, drain the coolant into a
clean container for reuse.
(3) Remove the air cleaner assembly (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/AIR INTAKE SYSTEM/AIR CLEANER
HOUSING - REMOVAL).
(4) Remove the cylinder head cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
(5) Remove the capscrews, bridge and pivot assem-
blies and rocker arms (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLIN-
DER HEAD/ROCKER ARM / ADJUSTER ASSY -
REMOVAL).
(6) Remove the push rods.Retain the push rods,
bridges, pivots and rocker arms in the same
order as removed.
(7) Remove the accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
REMOVAL).
(8) Remove the A/C compressor mounting bolts
and secure the compressor to the side.
(9) Remove the power steering pump and bracket
from the intake manifold and water pump. Set the
pump and bracket aside. DO NOT disconnect the
hoses.
(10) Perform the Fuel System Pressure Release
procedure. (Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL
DELIVERY - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(11) Disconnect the fuel supply line at the fuel rail.(12) Remove the intake and exhaust manifolds
from the engine cylinder head (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
MANIFOLDS/INTAKE MANIFOLD - REMOVAL).
(13) Remove the coil rail (Refer to 8 - ELECTRI-
CAL/IGNITION CONTROL/COIL RAIL - REMOV-
AL).
(14) Remove spark plugs (Refer to 8 - ELECTRI-
CAL/IGNITION CONTROL/SPARK PLUG - REMOV-
AL).
(15) Disconnect the temperature sending unit wire
connector.
(16) Remove the engine cylinder head bolts. Bolt
No.14 cannot be removed until the head is moved for-
ward (Fig. 9). Pull bolt No.14 out as far as it will go
and then suspend the bolt in this position (tape
around the bolt).
(17) Remove the engine cylinder head and gasket
(Fig. 9).
(18) If this was the first time the bolts were
removed, put a paint dab on the top of the bolt. If the
bolts have a paint dab on the top of the bolt or it
isn't known if they were used before, discard the
bolts.
(19) Stuff clean lint free shop towels into the cyl-
inder bores.
NOTE: If the valves, springs, or seals are to be
inspected/replaced at this time, (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/INTAKE/EXHAUST
VALVES & SEATS - STANDARD PROCEDURE) for
proper inspection procedures.
Fig. 8 Cylinder Head 4.0L Engine
1 - CYLINDER HEAD BOLTS
2 - CYLINDER HEAD GASKET
3 - CYLINDER HEAD
Fig. 9 Engine Cylinder
1 - CYLINDER HEAD BOLTS
2 - CYLINDER HEAD GASKET
3 - CYLINDER HEAD
9 - 20 ENGINE - 4.0LWJ
CYLINDER HEAD (Continued)
CLEANING
Remove any original sealer from the cover sealing
surface of the engine cylinder head and clean the
surface using a fabric cleaner.
Remove all residue from the sealing surface using
a clean, dry cloth.
INSPECTION
Inspect the engine cylinder head cover for cracks.
Replace the cover, if cracked.
The original dark grey gasket material should
NOT be removed. If sections of the gasket material
are missing or are compressed, replace the engine
cylinder head cover. However, sections with minor
damage such as small cracks, cuts or chips may be
repaired with a hand held applicator. The new mate-
rial must be smoothed over to maintain gasket
height. Allow the gasket material to cure prior to
engine cylinder head cover installation.
INSTALLATION
The cylinder head cover is isolated from the cylin-
der head via grommets and a reusable molded rubber
gasket. The grommet and limiter are retained in the
cylinder head cover.
(1) If a replacement cover is installed, transfer the
CCV valve grommet and oil filler cap from the origi-
nal cover to the replacement cover.
(2) Install cylinder head cover and gasket (Fig. 13).
Tighten the mounting bolts to 10 N´m (85 in. lbs.)
torque.
(3) Connect the CCV hoses.(4) Install control cables and bracket on intake
manifold and tighten bolts to 8.7 N´m (77 in. lbs.)
torque.
(5) Connect control cables to throttle body linkage.
(6) Snap control cables into cylinder head cover
clip.
(7) Connect negative cable to battery.
INTAKE/EXHAUST VALVES &
SEATS
DESCRIPTION
The valves are made of heat resistant steel and
have chrome plated stems to prevent scuffing. All
valves use three bead locks to promote valve rotation
(Fig. 14).
STANDARD PROCEDURE - VALVE SERVICE
VALVE REFACING
Clean all carbon deposits from the combustion
chambers, valve ports, valve stems, valve stem
guides and head.
(1) Use a valve refacing machine to reface the
intake and exhaust valves to the specified angle.
(2) After refacing, a margin of at least 0.787 mm
(0.031 inch) must remain (Fig. 15). If the margin is
less than 0.787 mm (0.031 inch), the valve must be
replaced.
VALVE SEAT REFACING
Clean all carbon deposits from the combustion
chambers, valve ports, valve stems, valve stem
guides and head.
(1) Install a pilot of the correct size in the valve
guide bore. Reface the valve seat to the specified
angle with a good dressing stone. Remove only
enough metal to provide a smooth finish.
(2) Use tapered stones to obtain the specified seat
width when required.
Fig. 12 Engine Cylinder Head Cover
1 - TRANS CONTROL CABLE
2 - ACCELERATOR CABLE
3 - CONTROL CABLE BRACKET
4 - CYLINDER HEAD COVER
Fig. 13 Cylinder Head Cover Gasket Locator Pins at
#8
WJENGINE - 4.0L 9 - 23
CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S) (Continued)
(3) Position the cylinder head onto the cylinder
block. Make sure the cylinder head seats fully over
the locating dowels.
NOTE: The four smaller cylinder head mounting
bolts require sealant to be added to them before
installing. Failure to do so may cause leaks.
(4) Lubricate the cylinder head bolt threads with
clean engine oil and install the ten M11 bolts.
(5) Coat the four M8 cylinder head bolts with
MopartLock and Seal Adhesivethen install the
bolts.
NOTE: The cylinder head bolts are tightened using
an angle torque procedure, however, the bolts are
not a torque-to-yield design.
(6) Tighten the bolts in sequence (Fig. 14) using
the following steps and torque values:
²Step 1: Tighten bolts 1±10, 27 N´m (20 ft. lbs.).
²Step 2: Verify that bolts 1±10, all reached 27
N´m (20 ft. lbs.), by repeating step-1 without loosen-
ing the bolts. Tighten bolts 11 thru 14 to 14 N´m (10
ft. lbs.).
²Step 3: Tighten bolts 1±10, 90 degrees.
²Step 4: Tighten bolts 1±10, 90 degrees, again.
Tighten bolts 11±14, 26 N´m (19 ft. lbs.)
(7) Install the secondary chain and secondary
chain guide (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/
TIMING BELT/CHAIN AND SPROCKETS -
INSTALLATION).
(8) Install the cylinder head access plug.
(9) Re-set and Install the left side secondary chain
tensioner (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/
TIMING BELT/CHAIN AND SPROCKETS -
INSTALLATION).
(10) Remove Special Tool 8515.(11) Install the timing chain cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN
COVER(S) - INSTALLATION).
(12) Install the crankshaft damper (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION DAMPER -
INSTALLATION).
(13) Install the power steering pump.
(14) Install the cylinder head cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - INSTALLATION).
(15) Install the intake manifold (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/MANIFOLDS/INTAKE MANIFOLD -
INSTALLATION).
(16) Refill the cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(17) Raise the vehicle.
(18) Install the exhaust pipe onto the left exhaust
manifold.
(19) Lower the vehicle.
(20) Connect the negative cable to the battery.
(21) Start the engine and check for leaks.
CAMSHAFT(S) - LEFT
DESCRIPTION
The camshafts consist of powdered metal steel
lobes which are sinter-bonded to a steel tube. A steel
post or nose piece is friction-welded to the steel cam-
shaft tube. Five bearing journals are machined into
the camshaft, four on the steel tube and one on the
steel nose piece. Camshaft end play is controlled by
two thrust walls that border the nose piece journal.
Engine oil enters the hollow camshafts at the third
journal and lubricates every intake lobe rocker
through a drilled passage in the intake lobe.
Fig. 13 Checking Cylinder Head Bolts for Stretching
(Necking)
1 - STRETCHED BOLT
2 - THREADS ARE NOT STRAIGHT ON LINE
3 - THREADS ARE STRAIGHT ON LINE
4 - UNSTRETCHED BOLTFig. 14 Cylinder Head Tightening Sequence
9 - 88 ENGINE - 4.7LWJ
CYLINDER HEAD - LEFT (Continued)