2002 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE radiator remove

CLEANING
Clean the gasket mating surface. Use caution not
to damage the gasket sealing surface.
INSPECTION
Inspect the water pump assembly for cracks in the
housing, Water leaks from shaft seal, Loose or rough
turning bearing or Impeller rubbing either the pump
body or timing chain case/cover.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: If the water pump is replaced because of
mechanical damage, the fan blades and viscous fan
drive should also be inspected. These components
could have been damaged due to excessive vibra-
tion.
(1) If pump is being replaced, install the heater
hose fitting to the pump. Use a sealant on the fitting
such as MopartThread Sealant With Teflon. Refer to
the directions on the package.
(2) Clean the gasket mating surfaces. If the origi-
nal pump is used, remove any deposits or other for-
eign material. Inspect the cylinder block and water
pump mating surfaces for erosion or damage from
cavitation.
(3) Install the gasket and water pump. The sili-
cone bead on the gasket should be facing the water
pump. Also, the gasket is installed dry. Tighten
mounting bolts to 30 N´m (22 ft. lbs.) torque. Rotate
the shaft by hand to be sure it turns freely.
(4) Connect the radiator and heater hoses to the
water pump.
(5) Position water pump pulley to water pump
hub. Tighten bolts 28 N´m (250 in. lbs.).
Install the idler pulley. Tighten the bolt 47 N´m (35
ft. lbs.).
Fig. 47 Hose Clamp Tool - Typical
1 - HOSE CLAMP TOOL 6094
2 - HOSE CLAMP
Fig. 48 Clamp - Typical
1 - TYPICAL CONSTANT TENSION HOSE CLAMP
2 - CLAMP NUMBER/LETTER LOCATION
3 - TYPICAL HOSE
Fig. 49 Water Pump Remove/Install - Typical
1 - HEATER HOSE FITTING
2 - PUMP GASKET
3 - WATER PUMP
4 - LONG BOLT
5 - BOLTS (4) SHORT
7 - 52 ENGINEWJ
WATER PUMP - 4.0L (Continued)

CAUTION: When installing the serpentine engine
accessory drive belt, the belt MUST be routed cor-
rectly. If not, the engine may overheat due to the
water pump rotating in the wrong direction. Refer to
the Belt Removal and Installtion in this group for
appropriate belt routing. You may also refer to the
Belt Routing Label in the vehicle engine compart-
ment.
Install accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 - COOLING/
ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - INSTALLA-
TION).
(6) Install fan blade and viscous fan drive onto
water pump.
(7) Fill cooling system with coolant and check for
leaks. (Refer to 7 - COOLING - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE).
(8) Connect battery cable to battery.
(9) Start and warm the engine. Check for leaks.
RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP
DESCRIPTION
All radiators are equipped with a pressure cap
(Fig. 50). This cap releases pressure at some point
within a range of 124-to-145 kPa (18-to-21 psi). The
pressure relief point (in pounds) is engraved on top of
the cap
The cooling system will operate at pressures
slightly above atmospheric pressure. This results in a
higher coolant boiling point allowing increased radi-
ator cooling capacity. The cap contains a spring-
loaded pressure relief valve. This valve opens when
system pressure reaches the release range of 124-to-
145 kPa (18-to-21 psi).
A rubber gasket seals the radiator filler neck. This is
done to maintain vacuum during coolant cool-down and
to prevent leakage when system is under pressure.
OPERATION
A vent valve in the center of the cap will remain
shut as long as the cooling system is pressurized. As
the coolant cools, it contracts and creates a vacuum
in cooling system. This causes the vacuum valve to
open and coolant in reserve/overflow tank to be
drawn through connecting hose into radiator. If the
vacuum valve is stuck shut, or overflow hose is
kinked, radiator hoses will collapse on cool-down.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐRADIATOR
PRESSURE CAP
Remove cap from radiator. Be sure that sealing
surfaces are clean. Moisten rubber gasket with water
and install the cap on pressure tester (tool 7700 or
an equivalent) (Fig. 51).Operate the tester pump and observe the gauge
pointer at its highest point. The cap release pressure
should be 124 to 145 kPa (18 to 21 psi). The cap is
satisfactory when the pressure holds steady. It is also
good if it holds pressure within the 124 to 145 kPa
(18 to 21 psi) range for 30 seconds or more. If the
pointer drops quickly, replace the cap.
CAUTION: Radiator pressure testing tools are very
sensitive to small air leaks, which will not cause
cooling system problems. A pressure cap that does
not have a history of coolant loss should not be
replaced just because it leaks slowly when tested
with this tool. Add water to tool. Turn tool upside
down and recheck pressure cap to confirm that cap
needs replacement.CLEANING
Clean the radiator pressure cap using a mild soap
and water only.
Fig. 50 Radiator Pressure Cap - Typical
1 - FILLER NECK SEAL
2 - VACUUM VENT VALVE
3 - PRESSURE RATING
4 - PRESSURE VALVE
WJENGINE 7 - 53
WATER PUMP - 4.0L (Continued)

INSPECTION
Visually inspect the pressure valve gasket on the
cap. Replace cap if the gasket is swollen, torn or
worn. Inspect the area around radiator filler neck for
white deposits that indicate a leaking cap.
WATER PUMP INLET TUBE
REMOVAL
WARNING: CONSTANT TENSION HOSE CLAMPS
ARE USED ON MOST COOLING SYSTEM HOSES.
WHEN REMOVING OR INSTALLING, USE ONLY
TOOLS DESIGNED FOR SERVICING THIS TYPE OF
CLAMP, SUCH AS SPECIAL CLAMP TOOL (NUMBER
6094) (Fig. 52). SNAP-ON CLAMP TOOL (NUMBER
HPC-20) MAY BE USED FOR LARGER CLAMPS.
ALWAYS WEAR SAFETY GLASSES WHEN SERVIC-
ING CONSTANT TENSION CLAMPS.
CAUTION: A number or letter is stamped into the
tongue of constant tension clamps (Fig. 53). If
replacement is necessary, use only an original
equipment clamp with matching number or letter.
(1) Partially drain cooling system .
(2) Do not waste reusable coolant. If solution is
clean, drain coolant into a clean container for reuse.(3) Loosen both bypass hose clamps (Fig. 52) and
position to center of hose. Remove hose from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position bypass hose clamps (Fig. 52) to center
of hose.
(2) Install bypass hose to engine.
(3) Secure both hose clamps (Fig. 52).
(4) Refill cooling system .
(5) Start and warm the engine. Check for leaks.
Fig. 51 Pressure Testing Radiator Pressure
CapÐTypical
1 - PRESSURE CAP
2 - TYPICAL COOLING SYSTEM PRESSURE TESTER
Fig. 52 Hose Clamp ToolÐTypical
1 - HOSE CLAMP TOOL 6094
2 - HOSE CLAMP
Fig. 53 Clamp Number/Letter Location
1 - TYPICAL CONSTANT TENSION HOSE CLAMP
2 - CLAMP NUMBER/LETTER LOCATION
3 - TYPICAL HOSE
7 - 54 ENGINEWJ
RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP (Continued)

TRANSMISSION
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
TRANS COOLER
DESCRIPTION.........................55STANDARD PROCEDURE - FLUSHING
COOLERS AND TUBES.................55
TRANS COOLER
DESCRIPTION
An internal high capacity/high efficiency cooler is
used on all vehicles these coolers are an oil-to-coolant
type which consists of plates mounted in the radiator
outlet tank (Fig. 36). Because the internal oil cooler
is so efficient, no auxiliary oil cooler is offered The
cooler is not servicable seperatly from the radiator.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - FLUSHING
COOLERS AND TUBES
When a transmission failure has contaminated the
fluid, the oil cooler(s) must be flushed. The torque
converter must also be replaced. This will insure that
metal particles or sludged oil are not later trans-
ferred back into the reconditioned (or replaced) trans-
mission.
The only recommended procedure for flushing cool-
ers and lines is to use Tool 6906-B Cooler Flusher.
WARNING: WEAR PROTECTIVE EYEWEAR THAT
MEETS THE REQUIREMENTS OF OSHA AND ANSI
Z87.1±1968. WEAR STANDARD INDUSTRIAL RUB-
BER GLOVES.
KEEP LIGHTED CIGARETTES, SPARKS, FLAMES,
AND OTHER IGNITION SOURCES AWAY FROM THE
AREA TO PREVENT THE IGNITION OF COMBUSTI-
BLE LIQUIDS AND GASES. KEEP A CLASS (B) FIRE
EXTINGUISHER IN THE AREA WHERE THE
FLUSHER WILL BE USED.
KEEP THE AREA WELL VENTILATED.
DO NOT LET FLUSHING SOLVENT COME IN CON-
TACT WITH YOUR EYES OR SKIN: IF EYE CONTAM-
INATION OCCURS, FLUSH EYES WITH WATER FOR
15 TO 20 SECONDS. REMOVE CONTAMINATED
CLOTHING AND WASH AFFECTED SKIN WITH
SOAP AND WATER. SEEK MEDICAL ATTENTION.
(1) Remove cover plate filler plug on Tool 6906-B.
Fill reservoir 1/2 to 3/4 full of fresh flushing solution.
Flushing solvents are petroleum based solutions gen-
erally used to clean automatic transmission compo-
nents.DO NOTuse solvents containing acids, water,
gasoline, or any other corrosive liquids.(2) Reinstall filler plug on Tool 6906-B.
(3) Verify pump power switch is turned OFF. Con-
nect red alligator clip to positive (+) battery post.
Connect black (-) alligator clip to a good ground.
(4) Disconnect the cooler lines at the transmission.
NOTE: When flushing transmission cooler and
lines, ALWAYS reverse flush.
NOTE: The converter drainback valve must be
removed and an appropriate replacement hose
installed to bridge the space between the transmis-
sion cooler line and the cooler fitting. Failure to
remove the drainback valve will prevent reverse
flushing the system. A suitable replacement hose
can be found in the adapter kit supplied with the
flushing tool.
(5) Connect the BLUE pressure line to the OUT-
LET (From) cooler line.
(6) Connect the CLEAR return line to the INLET
(To) cooler line
(7) Turn pump ON for two to three minutes to
flush cooler(s) and lines.
(8) Turn pump OFF.
(9) Disconnect CLEAR suction line from reservoir
at cover plate. Disconnect CLEAR return line at
cover plate, and place it in a drain pan.
(10) Turn pump ON for 30 seconds to purge flush-
ing solution from cooler and lines. Turn pump OFF.
(11) Place CLEAR suction line into a one quart
container of MopartATF +4, type 9602, Automatic
Transmission Fluid.
(12) Turn pump ON until all transmission fluid is
removed from the one quart container and lines. This
purges any residual cleaning solvent from the trans-
mission cooler and lines. Turn pump OFF.
(13) Disconnect alligator clips from battery. Recon-
nect flusher lines to cover plate, and remove flushing
adapters from cooler lines.
WJTRANSMISSION 7 - 55

(5) Reconnect the battery positive cable terminal
clamp to the battery positive terminal post. Tighten
the terminal clamp pinch-bolt hex nut to 6.8 N´m (60
in. lbs.).
(6) Reconnect the battery negative cable terminal
clamp to the battery negative terminal post. Tighten
the terminal clamp pinch-bolt hex nut to 6.8 N´m (
60 in. lbs.).
(7) Apply a thin coating of petroleum jelly or chas-
sis grease to the exposed surfaces of the battery cable
terminal clamps and the battery terminal posts.
BATTERY HOLDDOWN
DESCRIPTION
The battery hold down hardware consists of (Fig.
15) a molded plastic lip that is integral to the out-
board edge of the battery tray and support unit, a
molded plastic hold down bracket, a single hex screw
with a coned washer and a U-nut.
When installing a battery into the battery tray, be
certain that the hold down hardware is properly
installed and that the fasteners are tightened to the
proper specifications. Improper hold down fastener
tightness, whether too loose or too tight, can result in
damage to the battery, the vehicle or both.
OPERATION
The battery holddown secures the battery in the
battery tray. This holddown is designed to prevent
battery movement during the most extreme vehicle
operation conditions. Periodic removal and lubrica-
tion of the battery holddown hardware is recom-
mended to prevent hardware seizure at a later date.
CAUTION: Never operate a vehicle without a battery
holddown device properly installed. Damage to the
vehicle, components and battery could result.
REMOVAL
All of the battery hold down hardware can be ser-
viced without removal of the battery or the battery
tray and support unit.
(1) Turn the ignition switch to the Off position. Be
certain that all electrical accessories are turned off.
(2) Loosen the battery negative cable terminal
clamp pinch-bolt hex nut.
(3) Disconnect the battery negative cable terminal
clamp from the battery negative terminal post. If
necessary, use a battery terminal puller to remove
the terminal clamp from the battery post.
(4) Remove the screw with washer that secures the
battery hold down bracket to the U-nut on the
inboard side of the battery tray and support unit
(Fig. 16).
(5) Remove the battery hold down bracket from
the battery tray and support unit.
INSTALLATION
All of the battery hold down hardware can be ser-
viced without removal of the battery or the battery
tray and support unit.
(1) Clean and inspect the battery hold down hard-
ware. Refer to the procedures in this section of the
service manual.
(2) Be certain that the battery is properly posi-
tioned in the battery tray and support unit. The
ledge on the outboard side of the battery case must
be engaged under the lip on the outboard side of the
battery tray and support unit.
Fig. 15 Battery Hold Downs
1 - SCREW
2 - HOLD DOWN BRACKET
3 - BATTERY SUPPORT
4 - ACCUMULATOR
5 - NUT
6 - U-NUT
7 - STUD
8 - RADIATOR SUPPORT BRACKET
9 - U-NUT
10 - SCREW
11 - BATTERY TEMPERATURE SENSOR
12 - BATTERY
8F - 16 BATTERY SYSTEMWJ
BATTERY (Continued)

(3) Position the battery hold down bracket over the
ledge on the inboard side of the battery case in the
battery tray and support unit. Be certain that the
ledge on the bottom of the hold down bracket is ori-
ented towards the inboard side of the battery case.
Proper hold down bracket orientation may also be
determined by noting the direction of the arrow-like
formations of the molded reinforcing ribs on the top
of the hold down bracket. These arrows should be
pointed towards the battery.
(4) Install and tighten the screw that secures the
battery hold down bracket to the U-nut on the
inboard side of the battery tray and support unit.
Tighten thew screw to 3.4 N´m (30 in. lbs.).(5)
Reconnect the battery negative cable terminal clamp
to the battery negative terminal post. Tighten the terminal
clamp pinch-bolt hex nut to 8.4 N´m (75 in. lbs.).
BATTERY CABLE
DESCRIPTION
Fig. 16 Battery Hold Downs Remove/Install
1 - SCREW
2 - HOLD DOWN BRACKET
3 - BATTERY SUPPORT
4 - ACCUMULATOR
5 - NUT
6 - U-NUT
7 - STUD
8 - RADIATOR SUPPORT BRACKET
9 - U-NUT
10 - SCREW
11 - BATTERY TEMPERATURE SENSOR
12 - BATTERY
Fig. 17 Battery Cables - 4.0L Engine
1 - BATTERY POSITIVE CABLE
2 - BATTERY NEGATIVE CABLE
3 - CLIPS
Fig. 18 Battery Cables - 4.7L Engine
1 - BATTERY POSITIVE CABLE
2 - BATTERY NEGATIVE CABLE
3 - CLIPS
WJBATTERY SYSTEM 8F - 17
BATTERY HOLDDOWN (Continued)

OPERATION
The battery tray provides a secure mounting loca-
tion and supports the battery. On some vehicles, the
battery tray also provides the anchor point/s for the
battery holddown hardware. The battery tray and
the battery holddown hardware combine to secure
and stabilize the battery in the engine compartment,
which prevents battery movement during vehicle
operation. Unrestrained battery movement during
vehicle operation could result in damage to the vehi-
cle, the battery, or both.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the battery from the battery tray
(Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/BATTERY SYSTEM/BAT-
TERY - REMOVAL).
(2) Remove the Power Distribution Center (PDC)
from the stanchions on the outboard side of the bat-
tery tray and support unit. Refer toPower Distri-
bution Centerin the Power Distribution section of
this service manual for PDC removal procedure.
(3) Remove the one screw that secures the front of
the battery tray and support unit to the bracket on
the right side of the radiator support (Fig. 26).
(4) Remove the one screw that secures the out-
board side of the battery tray and support unit to the
right fender side cowl reinforcement.
(5) Remove the one nut that secures the rear of
the battery tray and support unit to the stud on the
right fender front wheelhouse inner panel.
(6) Remove the battery temperature sensor from
the battery tray. Refer toBattery Temperature
Sensorin the Charging section of this service man-
ual for battery temperature sensor removal proce-
dure.
(7) Remove the battery tray and support unit from
the right front corner of the engine compartment.
Fig. 25 Battery Tray and Support
1 - SCREW
2 - HOLD DOWN BRACKET
3 - BATTERY SUPPORT
4 - ACCUMULATOR
5 - NUT
6 - U-NUT
7 - STUD
8 - RADIATOR SUPPORT BRACKET
9 - U-NUT
10 - SCREW
11 - BATTERY TEMPERATURE SENSOR
12 - BATTERYFig. 26 Battery Tray and Support Remove/Install
1 - BATTERY TRAY AND SUPPORT
2 - NUT (1)
3 - STUD
4 - U-NUT (1)
5 - RADIATOR SUPPORT BRACKET
6 - SCREW (1)
7 - SCREW (1)
8F - 22 BATTERY SYSTEMWJ
BATTERY TRAY (Continued)

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
HORN SOUNDS
CONTINUOUSLY1. Faulty horn relay. 1. Refer to Horn Relay for the proper horn relay
diagnosis and testing procedures. Replace the
horn relay or repair the shorted horn relay control
circuit, if required.
2. Faulty horn switch. 2. Refer to Horn Switch for the proper horn switch
diagnosis and testing procedures. Replace the
horn switch or repair the shorted horn switch
circuit, if required.
HORN
DESCRIPTION
The dual electromagnetic diaphragm-type horns
are standard equipment on this model. Both horns
are secured to a mounting bracket. The mounting
bracket is secured with a screw to the back side of
the right extension of the radiator closure assembly,
just ahead of the right front wheel house and below
the front wheel house extension. The two horns are
connected in parallel. Each horn is grounded through
its wire harness connector and circuit to an eyelet
secured to the right inner fender shield near the bat-
tery, and receives battery feed through the closed
contacts of the horn relay.
The horns cannot be repaired or adjusted and, if
faulty or damaged, they must be individually
replaced.
OPERATION
Within the two halves of the molded plastic horn
housing are a flexible diaphragm, a plunger, an elec-
tromagnetic coil and a set of contact points. The dia-
phragm is secured in suspension around its
perimeter by the mating surfaces of the horn hous-
ing. The plunger is secured to the center of the dia-
phragm and extends into the center of the
electromagnet. The contact points control the current
flow through the electromagnet.
When the horn is energized, electrical current
flows through the closed contact points to the electro-
magnet. The resulting electromagnetic field draws
the plunger and diaphragm toward it until that
movement mechanically opens the contact points.
When the contact points open, the electromagnetic
field collapses allowing the plunger and diaphragm to
return to their relaxed positions and closing the con-
tact points again. This cycle continues repeating at a
very rapid rate producing the vibration and move-
ment of air that creates the sound that is directed
through the horn outlet.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HORN
Refer to the appropriate wiring information. The
wiring information includes wiring diagrams, proper
wire and connector repair procedures, details of wire
harness routing and retention, connector pin-out
information and location views for the various wire
harness connectors, splices and grounds.
(1) Disconnect the wire harness connector(s) from
the horn connector receptacle(s). Measure the resis-
tance between the ground circuit cavity of the horn(s)
wire harness connector(s) and a good ground. There
should be no measurable resistance. If OK, go to Step
2. If not OK, repair the open ground circuit to ground
as required.
(2) Check for battery voltage at the horn relay out-
put circuit cavity of the horn(s) wire harness connec-
tor(s). There should be zero volts. If OK, go to Step 3.
If not OK, repair the shorted horn relay output cir-
cuit or replace the faulty horn relay as required.
(3) Depress the horn switch. There should now be
battery voltage at the horn relay output circuit cavity
of the horn(s) wire harness connector(s). If OK,
replace the faulty horns. If not OK, repair the open
horn relay output circuit to the horn relay as
required.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative
cable.
(2) Raise and support the vehicle.
(3) Remove the lower front half of the inner liner
from the right front fender wheel house. (Refer to 23
- BODY/EXTERIOR/FRONT FENDER - REMOVAL).
(4) Reach through the front of the right front
fender wheel house opening to access and disconnect
the two right headlamp and dash wire harness con-
nectors from the horn connector receptacles (Fig. 1).
Be certain to disengage the connector lock tabs
before disconnecting them from the horn connector
receptacles.
(5) Remove the screw that secures the horn
mounting bracket to the right extension of the radi-
ator closure assembly.
WJHORN 8H - 3
HORN SYSTEM (Continued)