(12) Install cover and tighten bolts in a criss-cross
pattern to 41 N´m (30 ft. lbs.).
(13) Refill the differential with Mopar Hypoid
Gear Lubricant or equivalent to bottom of the fill
plug hole.
(14) Install fill hole plug.
(15) Remove support and lower the vehicle.
DIFFERENTIAL - TRAC-LOK
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
The most common problem is a chatter noise when
turning corners. Before removing the unit for repair,
drain, flush and refill the axle with the specified
lubricant. A container of Mopar Trac-loktLubricant
(friction modifier) should be added after repair ser-
vice or during a lubricant change.
After changing the lubricant, drive the vehicle and
make 10 to 12 slow, figure-eight turns. This maneu-
ver will pump lubricant through the clutches. This
will correct the condition in most instances. If the
chatter persists, clutch damage could have occurred.
DIFFERENTIAL TEST
The differential can be tested without removing the
differential case by measuring rotating torque. Make
sure brakes are not dragging during this measure-
ment.
(1) Place blocks in front and rear of both front
wheels.
(2) Raise one rear wheel until it is completely off
the ground.
(3) Engine off, transmission in neutral, and park-
ing brake off.
(4) Remove wheel and bolt Special Tool 6790 or
equivalent tool to studs.
(5) Use torque wrench on special tool to rotate
wheel and read rotating torque (Fig. 56).
(6) If rotating torque is less than 41 N´m (56 ft.
lbs.) or more than 271 N´m (200 ft. lbs.) on either
wheel the unit should be serviced.
DISASSEMBLY
(1) Clamp side gear Holding Fixture 6965 in a vise
and position the differential case on the Holding Fix-
ture (Fig. 57).
(2) Remove ring gear if the ring gear is to be
replaced. The Trac-loktdifferential can be serviced
with the ring gear installed.
Fig. 56 ROTATING TORQUE TEST
1 - SPECIAL TOOL WITH BOLT IN CENTER HOLE
2 - TORQUE WRENCH
Fig. 57 DIFFERENTIAL CASE FIXTURE
1 - HOLDING FIXTURE
2 - VISE
3 - DIFFERENTIAL
WJREAR AXLE - 226RBA 3 - 119
DIFFERENTIAL (Continued)
(3) Remove the pinion gear mate shaft lock screw
(Fig. 58).
(4) Remove pinion gear mate shaft with a drift and
hammer (Fig. 59).
(5) Install and lubricate Step Plate C-6960-3 (Fig.
60).
(6) Assemble Threaded Adapter C-6960-1 into top
side gear. Thread Forcing Screw C-6960-4 into
adapter until it becomes centered in adapter plate.
(7) Position a small screw driver in slot of
Threaded Adapter Disc C-6960-1 (Fig. 61) to prevent
adapter from turning.
Fig. 58 MATE SHAFT LOCK SCREW
1 - LOCK SCREW
2 - PINION GEAR MATE SHAFT
Fig. 59 PINION MATE SHAFT
1 - PINION MATE SHAFT
2 - SIDE GEAR
3 - DRIFT
4 - PINION MATE GEAR
Fig. 60 Step Plate
1 - LOWER SIDE GEAR
2 - DIFFERENTIAL CASE
3 - STEP PLATE
Fig. 61 Threaded Adapter Disc
1 - SOCKET
2 - SLOT IN ADAPTER
3 - SCREWDRIVER
4 - STEP PLATE
5 - FORCING SCREW
6 - THREAD ADAPTER DISC
3 - 120 REAR AXLE - 226RBAWJ
DIFFERENTIAL - TRAC-LOK (Continued)
(6) Install lubricated Step Plate C-6960-3 in lower
side gear (Fig. 68).
(7) Install the upper side gear and clutch disc pack
(Fig. 68).
(8) Hold assembly in position. Insert Threaded
Adapter C-6960-1 into top side gear.
(9) Install Forcing Screw C-6960-4 and tighten
screw to slightly compress clutch disc.
(10) Place pinion gears in position in side gears
and verify that the pinion mate shaft hole is aligned.
(11) Rotate case with Turning Bar C-6960-2 until
the pinion mate shaft holes in pinion gears align
with holes in case. It may be necessary to slightly
tighten the forcing screw in order to install the pin-
ion gears.
(12) Tighten forcing screw to 122 N´m (90 ft. lbs.)
maximum to compress the Belleville springs.
(13) Lubricate and install thrust washers behind
pinion gears and align washers with a small screw
driver. Insert mate shaft into each pinion gear to ver-
ify alignment.
(14) Remove Forcing Screw, Step Plate and
Threaded Adapter.
(15) Install pinion gear mate shaft and align holes
in shaft and case.(16) Install pinion mate shaft lock screw finger
tight to hold shaft during differential installation.
(17) Lubricate all differential components with
hypoid gear lubricant.
DIFFERENTIAL CASE
BEARINGS
REMOVAL
(1) Remove differential case from axle housing.
(2) Remove side bearings from the differential case
with Puller/Press C-293-PA, Adapters 8353 and Plug
C-293-3 (Fig. 69).
INSTALLATION
NOTE: If differential side bearings or differential
case are replaced, differential side bearing shim
requirements may change. Refer to Adjustments
(Differential Bearing Preload and Gear Backlash) for
procedures.
Fig. 68 CLUTCH PACK AND UPPER SIDE GEAR
1 - SIDE GEAR AND CLUTCH PACK
2 - DIFFERENTIAL CASE
3 - STEP PLATE
Fig. 69 Differential Bearing Removal
1 - ADAPTERS
2 - BEARING
3 - DIFFERENTIAL
4 - PLUG
5 - PULLER
WJREAR AXLE - 226RBA 3 - 123
DIFFERENTIAL - TRAC-LOK (Continued)
Common causes of brake drag are:
²Parking brake partially applied.
²Loose/worn wheel bearing.
²Seized caliper.
²Caliper binding.
²Loose caliper mounting.
²Mis-assembled components.
²Damaged brake lines.
If brake drag occurs at the front, rear or all
wheels, the problem may be related to a blocked mas-
ter cylinder return port, faulty power booster (binds-
does not release) or the ABS system.
BRAKE FADE
Brake fade is usually a product of overheating
caused by brake drag. However, brake overheating
and resulting fade can also be caused by riding the
brake pedal, making repeated high deceleration stops
in a short time span, or constant braking on steep
mountain roads. Refer to the Brake Drag information
in this section for causes.
BRAKE PULL
Front brake pull condition could result from:
²Contaminated lining in one caliper
²Seized caliper piston
²Binding caliper
²Loose caliper
²Rusty caliper slide surfaces
²Improper brake shoes
²Damaged rotor
²Wheel alignment.
²Tire pressure.
A worn, damaged wheel bearing or suspension compo-
nent are further causes of pull. A damaged front tire
(bruised, ply separation) can also cause pull.
A common and frequently misdiagnosed pull condi-
tion is where direction of pull changes after a few
stops. The cause is a combination of brake drag fol-
lowed by fade at one of the brake units.
As the dragging brake overheats, efficiency is so
reduced that fade occurs. Since the opposite brake
unit is still functioning normally, its braking effect is
magnified. This causes pull to switch direction in
favor of the normally functioning brake unit.
An additional point when diagnosing a change in
pull condition concerns brake cool down. Remember
that pull will return to the original direction, if the
dragging brake unit is allowed to cool down (and is
not seriously damaged).
REAR BRAKE DRAG OR PULL
Rear drag or pull may be caused by improperly
adjusted park brake shoes or seized parking brake
cables, contaminated lining, bent or binding shoes or
improperly assembled components. This is particu-
larly true when only one rear wheel is involved.However, when both rear wheels are affected, the
master cylinder or ABS system could be at fault.
BRAKES DO NOT HOLD AFTER DRIVING THROUGH DEEP
WATER PUDDLES
This condition is generally caused by water soaked
lining. If the lining is only wet, it can be dried by
driving with the brakes very lightly applied for a
mile or two. However, if the lining is both soaked and
dirt contaminated, cleaning and or replacement will
be necessary.
BRAKE LINING CONTAMINATION
Brake lining contamination is mostly a product of
leaking calipers or worn seals, driving through deep
water puddles, or lining that has become covered with
grease and grit during repair. Contaminated lining
should be replaced to avoid further brake problems.
WHEEL AND TIRE PROBLEMS
Some conditions attributed to brake components
may actually be caused by a wheel or tire problem.
A damaged wheel can cause shudder, vibration and
pull. A worn or damaged tire can also cause pull.
NOTE: Propshaft angle can also cause vibration/
shudder.
Severely worn tires with very little tread left can
produce a grab-like condition as the tire loses and
recovers traction. Flat-spotted tires can cause vibra-
tion and generate shudder during brake operation.
Tire damage such as a severe bruise, cut, ply separa-
tion, low air pressure can cause pull and vibration.
BRAKE NOISES
Some brake noise is common on some disc brakes
during the first few stops after a vehicle has been
parked overnight or stored. This is primarily due to
the formation of trace corrosion (light rust) on metal
surfaces. This light corrosion is typically cleared from
the metal surfaces after a few brake applications
causing the noise to subside.
BRAKE SQUEAK/SQUEAL
Brake squeak or squeal may be due to linings that
are wet or contaminated with brake fluid, grease, or oil.
Glazed linings and rotors with hard spots can also con-
tribute to squeak. Dirt and foreign material embedded
in the brake lining will also cause squeak/squeal.
A very loud squeak or squeal is frequently a sign of
severely worn brake lining. If the lining has worn
through to the brake shoes in spots, metal-to-metal
contact occurs. If the condition is allowed to continue,
rotors may become so scored that replacement is nec-
essary.
5 - 4 BRAKES - BASEWJ
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)
SPECIAL TOOLS
BASE BRAKESBRAKE FLUID LEVEL SWITCH
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the wire connector from the fluid level
sensor.
(2) From the same side of the master cylinder res-
ervoir release the sensor locking taps with a small
screw driver.
(3) Pull the sensor out of the reservoir from the
connector side of the sensor.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the sensor with a new o-ring into the
reservoir until the locking tabs are engaged.
(2) Install the wire connector to the fluid level sen-
sor.
RED BRAKE WARN INDICATOR
SWITCH
DESCRIPTION
A red warning lamp is used for the service brake
portion of the hydraulic system. The lamp is located
in the instrument cluster.
OPERATION
The lamp is turned on momentarily when the igni-
tion switch is turn to the on position. This is a self
test to verify the lamp is operational.
The red warning light alerts the driver if the fluid
level is low or the parking brakes are applied. A red
warning lamp with an amber warning lamp may
indicate a electronic brake distribution fault.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - RED BRAKE
WARNING LAMP
The red warning lamp illuminates when the park-
ing brake is applied or when the fluid level in the
master cylinder is low. It will also illuminate at start
up as part of a bulb check.
If the light comes on, first verify that the parking
brakes are fully released. Then check pedal action
and fluid level. If a problem is confirmed, inspect the
brake hydraulic system for leaks.
A red warning lamp with a amber warning lamp
may indicate a electronic brake distribution fault.
Installer Caliper Dust Boot 8280
Handle C-4171
Adapter Pressure Bleeder 6921
WJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 7
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)
ADJUSTABLE PEDAL SWITCH
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the steering column opening cover
(Fig. 2)(Refer to 23 - BODY/INSTRUMENT PANEL/
STEERING COLUMN OPENING COVER - REMOV-
AL).
(2) Disconnect the electrical connector from the
adjustable pedal switch.
(3) Remove the switch from the steering column
opening cover by squeezing the retaining clips
together and pushing the switch outwards (Fig. 3).
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the switch to the steering column open-
ing cover by pushing the switch inwards seating the
retaining clips to the steering column opening cover
(Fig. 3).
(2) Reconnect the electrical connector to the
adjustable pedal switch.
(3) Install the steering column opening cover (Fig.
2)(Refer to 23 - BODY/INSTRUMENT PANEL/
STEERING COLUMN OPENING COVER - INSTAL-
LATION).
BRAKE LINES
DESCRIPTION
Flexible rubber hose is used at both front brakes,
rear brakes and at the rear axle junction block. Dou-
ble walled steel tubing is used. Double inverted style
and ISO style flares are used on the brake lines.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - BRAKE HOSES
AND LINES
Flexible rubber hose is used at both front and rear
brakes and at the rear axle junction block. Inspect
the hoses whenever the brake system is serviced, at
every engine oil change, or whenever the vehicle is in
for service.
Inspect the hoses for surface cracking, scuffing, or
worn spots. Replace any brake hose immediately if
the fabric casing of the hose is exposed due to cracks
or abrasions.
Also check brake hose installation. Faulty installa-
tion can result in kinked, twisted hoses, or contact
with the wheels and tires or other chassis compo-
nents. All of these conditions can lead to scuffing,
cracking and eventual failure.
The steel brake lines should be inspected periodi-
cally for evidence of corrosion, twists, kinks, leaks, or
other damage. Heavily corroded lines will eventually
rust through causing leaks. In any case, corroded or
damaged brake lines should be replaced.
Factory replacement brake lines and hoses are rec-
ommended to ensure quality, correct length and supe-
rior fatigue life. Care should be taken to make sure
that brake line and hose mating surfaces are clean
and free from nicks and burrs. Also remember that
right and left brake hoses are not interchangeable.
Use new copper gaskets at all caliper connections.
Be sure brake line connections are properly made
(not cross threaded) and tightened to recommended
torque.
Fig. 2 STEERING COLUMN OPENING COVER
REMOVAL/INSTALL
1 - INSTRUMENT PANEL TOP PAD
2 - STEERING COLUMN OPENING COVER
3 - SCREW (3)
Fig. 3 ADJUSTABLE PEDAL SWITCH
1 - RETAINING CLIPS
2 - ELECTRICAL CONNECTION
5 - 8 BRAKES - BASEWJ
DISASSEMBLY
DISASSEMBLY - FRONT DISC BRAKE CALIPER
(1) Drain the brake fluid from caliper.
(2) C-clamp a block of wood over one piston (Fig.
27).
(3) Take another piece of wood and pad it with
one-inch thickness of shop towels. Place this piece in
the outboard shoe side of the caliper in front of the
other piston. This will cushion and protect caliper
piston during removal (Fig. 28).(4) To remove the caliper piston directshort
bursts of low pressure airwith a blow gun
through the caliper brake hose port. Use only enough
air pressure to ease the piston out.
CAUTION: Do not blow the piston out of the bore
with sustained air pressure. This could result in a
cracked piston.
WARNING: NEVER ATTEMPT TO CATCH THE PIS-
TON AS IT LEAVES THE BORE. THIS COULD
RESULT IN PERSONAL INJURY.
(5) Remove the C-clamp and block of wood from
the caliper and clamp it over the dust boot of the
first piston removed. This will seal the empty piston
bore.
(6) Move the padded piece of wood in front of the
other piston.
(7) Remove the second piston using the same pro-
cedure withshort bursts of low pressure air.
(8) Remove piston dust boots with a suitable pry
tool (Fig. 29)and discard.
Fig. 27 C-Clamp One Piston
1 - BLOCK OF WOOD
2 - C-CLAMP
3 - CALIPER
Fig. 28 Protect Caliper Piston
1 - CALIPER
2 - PADDED BLOCK OF WOOD
3 - C-CLAMP
Fig. 29 Piston Dust Boot Removal
1 - CALIPER
2 - PISTON DUST BOOT
WJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 17
DISC BRAKE CALIPERS (Continued)
(2) Remove nut from pedal shaft.
(3) Slide pedal shaft out and remove brake pedal.
(4) Remove pedal bushings (Fig. 54) if they are to
be replaced.
REMOVAL - ADJUSTABLE PEDALS
NOTE: If possible put the pedals in the full forward
position.
(1) Disconnect the negative battery cable.
(2) Remove the cluster bezel (Refer to 23 - BODY/
INSTRUMENT PANEL/CLUSTER BEZEL - REMOV-
AL).
(3) Remove the steering column opening cover
(Refer to 23 - BODY/INSTRUMENT PANEL/STEER-
ING COLUMN OPENING COVER - REMOVAL).
(4) Disconnect the module electrical connector.
(5) Remove the brake light switch.
(6) Disconnect the booster rod clip (Fig. 53).
(7) Disconnect the accelerator cable from the
pedal.
(8) Lock the steering wheel into place.
(9) Remove the lower steering shaft pinch bolt
(Fig. 56).
(10) Separate the lower shaft coupler and push for-
ward (Fig. 56).
(11) Remove the two pedal bracket upper nuts
(Fig. 55).
(12) Remove the brake booster nuts (Fig. 56).
(13) Remove the accelerator pedal nuts (Fig. 57).(14) Remove the ICU mounting bracket nuts and
bolts and move the ICU and booster forward this will
allow enough clearance to remove the adjustable
pedal bracket from over the booster push rod.
(15) Remove the pedal from the vehicle (Fig. 56).
(16) Transfer the module if needed.
Fig. 54 Pedal Bushings
1 - BUSHING
2 - BUSHING
3 - SHAFT NUT
4 - PEDAL SHAFT
Fig. 55 UPPER MOUNTING NUTS
1 - UPPER MOUNTING STUDS
2 - ACCELERATOR MOUNTING STUDS
3 - UPPER MOUNTING NUT
4 - MOTOR
5 - ADJUSTABLE PEDAL BRACKET
Fig. 56 ADJUSTABLE PEDAL BRACKET
1 - BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH
2 - STEERING COLUMN
3 - ACCELERATOR PEDAL
4 - ADJUSTABLE PEDALS MOUNTING BRACKET
5 - BRAKE PEDAL
6 - MOTOR MOUNTING BRACKET
7 - BRAKE BOOSTER MOUNTING NUTS
(4)
WJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 27
PEDAL (Continued)