2002 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE Suspension

Condition Possible Causes Correction
Axle Noise 1. Insufficient lubricant. 1. Fill differential with the correct
fluid type and quantity.
2. Improper ring gear and pinion
adjustment.2. Check ring gear and pinion
contact pattern.
3. Unmatched ring gear and pinion. 3. Replace gears with a matched
ring gear and pinion.
4. Worn teeth on ring gear and/or
pinion.4. Replace ring gear and pinion.
5. Loose pinion bearings. 5. Adjust pinion bearing pre-load.
6. Loose differential bearings. 6. Adjust differential bearing
pre-load.
7. Mis-aligned or sprung ring gear. 7. Measure ring gear run-out.
Replace components as necessary.
8. Loose differential bearing cap
bolts.8. Inspect differential components
and replace as necessary. Ensure
that the bearing caps are torqued
tot he proper specification.
9. Housing not machined properly. 9. Replace housing.
VARI-LOKT
(1) Park the vehicle on a level surface or raise
vehicle on hoist so that the vehicle is level.
(2) Remove the axle fill plug.
(3) Verify that the axle fluid level is correct. The
fluid level is correct if the fluid is level with the bot-
tom of the fill hole.
(4) Shift the transfer case into the 4WD full-time
position.
(5) Drive the vehicle in a tight circle for 2 minutes
at 5mph to fully prime the pump.
(6) Block the tires opposite the axle to be tested to
prevent the vehicle from moving.
(7) Shift the transfer case into the 4WD Low posi-
tion and the transmission into the Park position.
(8) Raise both the wheels of the axle to be tested
off of the ground.
(9) Rotate the left wheel by hand at a minimum of
one revolution per second while an assistant rotates
the right wheel in the opposite direction.
(10) The left wheel should spin freely at first and
then increase in resistance within 5 revolutions until
the wheels cannot be continuously rotated in opposite
directions.
(11) The Vari-loktdifferential has engaged prop-
erly if the wheels cannot be rotated in opposite direc-tions for a moment. After the wheels stop rotating for
a moment, the fluid pressure will drop in the differ-
ential and the wheels begin to rotate once again.
(12) If the system does not operate properly,
replace the Vari-loktdifferential.
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Position a lifting device under the axle and
secure axle.
(3) Remove the wheels and tires.
(4) Remove brake calipers and rotors.
(5) Disconnect parking brake cables from brackets
and lever.
(6) Remove wheel speed sensors.
(7) Remove brake hose at the axle junction block.
Do not disconnect the brake hydraulic lines at the
calipers.
(8) Disconnect the vent hose from the axle shaft
tube.
(9) Mark propeller shaft and yokes for installation
reference.
(10) Remove propeller shaft.
(11) Disconnect stabilizer bar links.
(12) Remove upper suspension arm rear axle ball
joint nut.
WJREAR AXLE - 198RBI 3 - 55
REAR AXLE - 198RBI (Continued)

(13) Separate rear axle ball joint from the upper
suspension arm with Remover 8278 (Fig. 4).
(14) Disconnect shock absorbers from axle.
(15) Disconnect track bar.
(16) Disconnect lower suspension arms from the
axle brackets.
(17) Separate the axle from the vehicle.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: The weight of the vehicle must be sup-
ported by the springs before suspension arms and
track bar fasteners are tightened. If springs are not
at their normal ride position, vehicle ride height and
handling could be affected.
(1) Raise axle with lift and align coil springs.
(2) Install lower suspension arms in axle brackets.
Install nuts and bolts, do not tighten bolts at this
time.
(3) Install upper suspension arm on rear axle ball
joint.
(4) Install rear axle ball joint nut and tighten to
122 N´m (90 ft.lbs.) (Fig. 5).
(5) Install track bar and attachment bolts, do not
tighten bolts at this time.
(6) Install shock absorbers and tighten nuts to 60
N´m (44 ft. lbs.).(7) Install stabilizer bar links and tighten nuts to
36 N´m (27 ft. lbs.).
(8) Install wheel speed sensors.
(9) Connect parking brake cable to brackets and
lever.
(10) Install brake rotors and calipers.
(11) Install the brake hose to the axle junction
block.
(12) Install axle vent hose.
(13) Align propeller shaft and pinion yoke refer-
ence marks. Install U-joint straps and nuts tighten to
19 N´m (14 ft. lbs.).
(14) Install the wheels and tires.
(15) Add gear lubricant, if necessary.
(16) Remove support and lower the vehicle.
(17) Tighten lower suspension arm bolts to 177
N´m (130 ft. lbs.).
(18) Tighten track bar bolts to 100 N´m (74 ft.
lbs.).
ADJUSTMENTS
Ring and pinion gears are supplied as matched
sets only. The identifying numbers for the ring and
pinion gear are etched into the face of each gear (Fig.
6). A plus (+) number, minus (±) number or zero (0) is
etched into the face of the pinion gear. This number
is the amount (in thousandths of an inch) the depth
varies from the standard depth setting of a pinion
etched with a (0). The standard setting from the cen-
ter line of the ring gear to the back face of the pinion
is 96.850 mm (3.813 in.). The standard depth pro-
vides the best gear tooth contact pattern. Refer to
Backlash and Contact Pattern Analysis paragraph in
this section for additional information.
Fig. 4 REAR BALL JOINT
1 - REMOVER
2 - UPPER SUSPENSION ARM
3 - BALL JOINT STUD
Fig. 5 REAR BALL JOINT NUT
1 - UPPER SUSPENSION ARM
2 - REAR AXLE BALL JOINT
3 - REAR AXLE
3 - 56 REAR AXLE - 198RBIWJ
REAR AXLE - 198RBI (Continued)

(3) Remove the wheels and tires.
(4) Remove brake calipers and rotors.
(5) Disconnect parking brake cables from brackets
and lever.
(6) Remove wheel speed sensors.
(7) Remove brake hose at the axle junction block.
Do not disconnect the brake hydraulic lines at the
calipers.
(8) Disconnect the vent hose from the axle shaft
tube.
(9) Mark propeller shaft and yokes for installation
reference.
(10) Remove propeller shaft.
(11) Disconnect stabilizer bar links.
(12) Remove upper suspension arm rear axle ball
joint nut.
(13) Separate rear axle ball joint from the upper
suspension arm with Remover 8278 (Fig. 4).
(14) Disconnect shock absorbers from axle.
(15) Disconnect track bar.
(16) Disconnect lower suspension arms from the
axle brackets.
(17) Separate the axle from the vehicle.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: The weight of the vehicle must be sup-
ported by the springs before suspension arms and
track bar fasteners are tightened. If springs are notat their normal ride position, vehicle ride height and
handling could be affected.
(1) Raise axle with lift and align coil springs.
(2) Install lower suspension arms in axle brackets.
Install nuts and bolts, do not tighten bolts at this
time.
(3) Install upper suspension arm on rear axle ball
joint.
(4) Install rear axle ball joint nut and tighten to
122 N´m (90 ft.lbs.) (Fig. 5).
(5) Install track bar and attachment bolts, do not
tighten bolts at this time.
(6) Install shock absorbers and tighten nuts to 60
N´m (44 ft. lbs.).
(7) Install stabilizer bar links and tighten nuts to
36 N´m (27 ft. lbs.).
(8) Install wheel speed sensors.
(9) Connect parking brake cable to brackets and
lever.
(10) Install brake rotors and calipers.
(11) Install the brake hose to the axle junction
block.
(12) Install axle vent hose.
(13) Align propeller shaft and pinion yoke refer-
ence marks. Install U-joint straps and nuts tighten to
19 N´m (14 ft. lbs.).
(14) Install the wheels and tires.
(15) Add gear lubricant, if necessary.
(16) Remove support and lower the vehicle.
(17) Tighten lower suspension arm bolts to 177
N´m (130 ft. lbs.).
(18) Tighten track bar bolts to 100 N´m (74 ft.
lbs.).
Fig. 4 REAR BALL JOINT
1 - REMOVER
2 - UPPER SUSPENSION ARM
3 - BALL JOINT STUD
Fig. 5 REAR BALL JOINT NUT
1 - UPPER SUSPENSION ARM
2 - REAR AXLE BALL JOINT
3 - REAR AXLE
3 - 96 REAR AXLE - 226RBAWJ
REAR AXLE - 226RBA (Continued)

(2) If complaint was based on noise when braking,
check suspension components. Jounce front and rear
of vehicle and listen for noise that might be caused
by loose, worn or damaged suspension or steering
components.
(3) Inspect brake fluid level and condition. Note
that the brake reservoir fluid level will decrease in
proportion to normal lining wear.Also note that
brake fluid tends to darken over time. This is
normal and should not be mistaken for contam-
ination.
(a) If fluid level is abnormally low, look for evi-
dence of leaks at calipers, brake lines, master cyl-
inder, and HCU.
(b) If fluid appears contaminated, drain out a
sample to examine. System will have to be flushed
if fluid is separated into layers, or contains a sub-
stance other than brake fluid. The system seals,
cups, hoses, master cylinder, and HCU will also
have to be replaced after flushing. Use clean brake
fluid to flush the system.
(4) Check parking brake operation. Verify free
movement and full release of cables and lever. Also
note if vehicle was being operated with parking
brake partially applied.
(5) Check brake pedal operation. Verify that pedal
does not bind and has adequate free play. If pedal
lacks free play, check pedal and power booster for
being loose or for bind condition. Do not road test
until condition is corrected.
(6) Check booster vacuum check valve and hose.
(7) If components checked appear OK, road test
the vehicle.
ROAD TESTING
(1) If complaint involved low brake pedal, pump
pedal and note if it comes back up to normal height.
(2) Check brake pedal response with transmission
in neutral and engine running. Pedal should remain
firm under constant foot pressure.
(3) During road test, make normal and firm brake
stops in 25-40 mph range. Note faulty brake opera-
tion such as low pedal, hard pedal, fade, pedal pulsa-
tion, pull, grab, drag, noise, etc.
(4) Attempt to stop the vehicle with the parking
brake only (do not exceed 25 mph) and note grab,
drag, noise, etc.
PEDAL FALLS AWAY
A brake pedal that falls away under steady foot
pressure is generally the result of a system leak. The
leak point could be at a brake line, fitting, hose, or
caliper. If leakage is severe, fluid will be evident at
or around the leaking component.Internal leakage (seal by-pass) in the master cylin-
der caused by worn or damaged piston cups, may
also be the problem cause.
An internal leak in the ABS system may also be
the problem with no visual fluid leak.
LOW PEDAL
If a low pedal is experienced, pump the pedal sev-
eral times. If the pedal comes back up, the most
likely causes are worn linings, rotors, or calipers are
not sliding on the slide pins. The proper course of
action is to inspect and replace all worn component.
SPONGY PEDAL
A spongy pedal is most often caused by air in the
system. However substandard brake hoses can cause
a spongy pedal. The proper course of action is to
bleed the system, and replace substandard quality
brake hoses if suspected.
HARD PEDAL OR HIGH PEDAL EFFORT
A hard pedal or high pedal effort may be due to
lining that is water soaked, contaminated, glazed, or
badly worn. The power booster, check valve, check
valve seal/grommet or vacuum leak could also cause
a hard pedal or high pedal effort.
PEDAL PULSATION
Pedal pulsation is caused by components that are
loose, or beyond tolerance limits.
The primary cause of pulsation are disc brake
rotors with excessive lateral runout or thickness vari-
ation. Other causes are loose wheel bearings or cali-
pers and worn, damaged tires.
NOTE: Some pedal pulsation may be felt during
ABS activation.
BRAKE DRAG
Brake drag occurs when the lining is in constant
contact with the rotor or drum. Drag can occur at one
wheel, all wheels, fronts only, or rears only.
Drag is a product of incomplete brake release.
Drag can be minor or severe enough to overheat the
linings, rotors and park brake drums.
Minor drag will usually cause slight surface charring
of the lining. It can also generate hard spots in rotors
and park brake drums from the overheat-cool down pro-
cess. In most cases, the rotors, wheels and tires are
quite warm to the touch after the vehicle is stopped.
Severe drag can char the brake lining all the way
through. It can also distort and score rotors to the
point of replacement. The wheels, tires and brake
components will be extremely hot. In severe cases,
the lining may generate smoke as it chars from over-
heating.
WJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 3
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

Common causes of brake drag are:
²Parking brake partially applied.
²Loose/worn wheel bearing.
²Seized caliper.
²Caliper binding.
²Loose caliper mounting.
²Mis-assembled components.
²Damaged brake lines.
If brake drag occurs at the front, rear or all
wheels, the problem may be related to a blocked mas-
ter cylinder return port, faulty power booster (binds-
does not release) or the ABS system.
BRAKE FADE
Brake fade is usually a product of overheating
caused by brake drag. However, brake overheating
and resulting fade can also be caused by riding the
brake pedal, making repeated high deceleration stops
in a short time span, or constant braking on steep
mountain roads. Refer to the Brake Drag information
in this section for causes.
BRAKE PULL
Front brake pull condition could result from:
²Contaminated lining in one caliper
²Seized caliper piston
²Binding caliper
²Loose caliper
²Rusty caliper slide surfaces
²Improper brake shoes
²Damaged rotor
²Wheel alignment.
²Tire pressure.
A worn, damaged wheel bearing or suspension compo-
nent are further causes of pull. A damaged front tire
(bruised, ply separation) can also cause pull.
A common and frequently misdiagnosed pull condi-
tion is where direction of pull changes after a few
stops. The cause is a combination of brake drag fol-
lowed by fade at one of the brake units.
As the dragging brake overheats, efficiency is so
reduced that fade occurs. Since the opposite brake
unit is still functioning normally, its braking effect is
magnified. This causes pull to switch direction in
favor of the normally functioning brake unit.
An additional point when diagnosing a change in
pull condition concerns brake cool down. Remember
that pull will return to the original direction, if the
dragging brake unit is allowed to cool down (and is
not seriously damaged).
REAR BRAKE DRAG OR PULL
Rear drag or pull may be caused by improperly
adjusted park brake shoes or seized parking brake
cables, contaminated lining, bent or binding shoes or
improperly assembled components. This is particu-
larly true when only one rear wheel is involved.However, when both rear wheels are affected, the
master cylinder or ABS system could be at fault.
BRAKES DO NOT HOLD AFTER DRIVING THROUGH DEEP
WATER PUDDLES
This condition is generally caused by water soaked
lining. If the lining is only wet, it can be dried by
driving with the brakes very lightly applied for a
mile or two. However, if the lining is both soaked and
dirt contaminated, cleaning and or replacement will
be necessary.
BRAKE LINING CONTAMINATION
Brake lining contamination is mostly a product of
leaking calipers or worn seals, driving through deep
water puddles, or lining that has become covered with
grease and grit during repair. Contaminated lining
should be replaced to avoid further brake problems.
WHEEL AND TIRE PROBLEMS
Some conditions attributed to brake components
may actually be caused by a wheel or tire problem.
A damaged wheel can cause shudder, vibration and
pull. A worn or damaged tire can also cause pull.
NOTE: Propshaft angle can also cause vibration/
shudder.
Severely worn tires with very little tread left can
produce a grab-like condition as the tire loses and
recovers traction. Flat-spotted tires can cause vibra-
tion and generate shudder during brake operation.
Tire damage such as a severe bruise, cut, ply separa-
tion, low air pressure can cause pull and vibration.
BRAKE NOISES
Some brake noise is common on some disc brakes
during the first few stops after a vehicle has been
parked overnight or stored. This is primarily due to
the formation of trace corrosion (light rust) on metal
surfaces. This light corrosion is typically cleared from
the metal surfaces after a few brake applications
causing the noise to subside.
BRAKE SQUEAK/SQUEAL
Brake squeak or squeal may be due to linings that
are wet or contaminated with brake fluid, grease, or oil.
Glazed linings and rotors with hard spots can also con-
tribute to squeak. Dirt and foreign material embedded
in the brake lining will also cause squeak/squeal.
A very loud squeak or squeal is frequently a sign of
severely worn brake lining. If the lining has worn
through to the brake shoes in spots, metal-to-metal
contact occurs. If the condition is allowed to continue,
rotors may become so scored that replacement is nec-
essary.
5 - 4 BRAKES - BASEWJ
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

NOTE: The front outer brake shoes are equipped
with a wear indicator. The indicator will produce an
audible noise when it contacts the rotor surface.
BRAKE CHATTER
Brake chatter is usually caused by loose or worn
components, or glazed/burnt lining. Rotors with hard
spots can also contribute to chatter. Additional causes
of chatter are out-of-tolerance rotors, brake lining not
securely attached to the shoes, loose wheel bearings
and contaminated brake lining.
THUMP/CLUNK NOISE
Thumping or clunk noises during braking are fre-
quentlynotcaused by brake components. In many
cases, such noises are caused by loose or damaged
steering, suspension, or engine components.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - MANUAL BLEEDING
Use Mopar brake fluid, or an equivalent quality
fluid meeting SAE J1703-F and DOT 3 standards
only. Use fresh, clean fluid from a sealed container at
all times.
Do not pump the brake pedal at any time while
bleeding. Air in the system will be compressed into
small bubbles that are distributed throughout the
hydraulic system. This will make additional bleeding
operations necessary.
Do not allow the master cylinder to run out of fluid
during bleed operations. An empty cylinder will allow
additional air to be drawn into the system. Check the
cylinder fluid level frequently and add fluid as
needed.
Bleed only one brake component at a time in the
following sequence:
(1) Fill the master cylinder reservoir with brake
fluid.
(2) If calipers are overhauled, open all caliper
bleed screws. Then close each bleed screw as fluid
starts to drip from it. Top off master cylinder reser-
voir once more before proceeding.
(3) Attach one end of bleed hose to bleed screw
and insert opposite end in glass container partially
filled with brake fluid (Fig. 1). Be sure end of bleed
hose is immersed in fluid.
(4) Open up bleeder, then have a helper press
down the brake pedal. Once the pedal is down close
the bleeder. Repeat bleeding until fluid stream is
clear and free of bubbles. Then move to the next
wheel.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - PRESSURE
BLEEDING
Use Mopar brake fluid, or an equivalent quality
fluid meeting SAE J1703-F and DOT 3 standards
only. Use fresh, clean fluid from a sealed container at
all times.
Do not pump the brake pedal at any time while
bleeding. Air in the system will be compressed into
small bubbles that are distributed throughout the
hydraulic system. This will make additional bleeding
operations necessary.
Do not allow the master cylinder to run out of fluid
during bleed operations. An empty cylinder will allow
additional air to be drawn into the system. Check the
cylinder fluid level frequently and add fluid as
needed.
Bleed only one brake component at a time in the
following sequence:
Follow the manufacturers instructions carefully
when using pressure equipment. Do not exceed the
tank manufacturers pressure recommendations. Gen-
erally, a tank pressure of 51-67 kPa (15-20 psi) is suf-
ficient for bleeding.
Fill the bleeder tank with recommended fluid and
purge air from the tank lines before bleeding.
Do not pressure bleed without a proper master cyl-
inder adapter. The wrong adapter can lead to leak-
age, or drawing air back into the system. Use
adapter provided with the equipment or Adapter
6921.
Fig. 1 Bleed Hose Setup
1 - BLEED HOSE
2 - FLUID CONTAINER PARTIALLY FILLED WITH FLUID
WJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 5
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

(8) Secure caliper to nearby suspension part with
wire.Do not allow brake hose to support caliper
weight.
(9) Remove the inboard brake shoe from the cali-
per (Fig. 12).
(10) Remove the outboard brake shoe (Fig. 13)
from the caliper anchor.REMOVAL - REAR DISC BRAKE SHOES
(1) Raise and support vehicle.
(2) Remove rear wheel and tire assembly.
(3) Drain small amount of fluid from master cylin-
der brake reservoir with acleansuction gun.
(4) Bottom caliper pistons into the caliper by pry-
ing the caliper over (Fig. 14).
Fig. 11 Caliper Slide
1 - SLIDE PIN
2 - SLIDE PIN
3 - CALIPER
Fig. 12 Inboard Brake Shoe
1 - CALIPER
2 - INBOARD SHOE
Fig. 13 Outboard Brake Shoe
1 - CALIPER ANCHOR
2 - OUTBOARD BRAKE SHOE
Fig. 14 Bottoming Caliper Piston
1 - CALIPER
2 - CALIPER ANCHOR
5 - 12 BRAKES - BASEWJ
BRAKE PADS / SHOES (Continued)

(5) Remove the caliper support spring by prying
the spring out of the caliper (Fig. 15).
(6) Remove the caliper slide pin bushing caps and
remove the slide pins (Fig. 16).(7) Remove caliper from the anchor.
(8) Secure caliper to nearby suspension part with
wire.Do not allow brake hose to support caliper
weight.
(9) Remove the inboard brake shoe from the cali-
per (Fig. 17).
(10) Remove outboard brake shoe (Fig. 18) from
the caliper anchor.
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - FRONT DISC BRAKE SHOES
(1) Install the inboard brake shoe onto the caliper
(Fig. 12).
(2) Install the outboard shoe onto the caliper
anchor (Fig. 13).
(3) Lubricate the slide pins and slide pin bushings
with Dow Corningtgrease G807 or the grease pro-
vided with the brake shoes.
(4) Install caliper on the caliper anchor.
(5) Install the caliper slide pin and tighten to
29-41 N´m (21-30 ft. lbs.).
(6) Install the caliper slide pin bushing caps.
(7) Install the caliper support spring in the top
end of the caliper and under the anchor. Then install
other end into the lower caliper hole. Hold the spring
into the caliper hole with your thumb while prying
the end of the spring out and down under the anchor
with a screw drive.
Fig. 15 Caliper Support Spring
1 - CALIPER
2 - ANCHOR
3 - SUPPORT SPRING
Fig. 16 Caliper Slide Pins
1 - CALIPER
2 - SLIDE PINS
Fig. 17 Inboard Brake Shoe
1 - CALIPER
2 - INBOARD SHOE
WJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 13
BRAKE PADS / SHOES (Continued)