2002 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE Removing a transmission

INSPECTION
Replace the clutch discs if warped, worn, scored,
burned/charred, the lugs are damaged, or if the fac-
ing is flaking off. Replace the top and bottom pres-
sure plates if scored, warped, or cracked. Be sure the
driving lugs on the pressure and clutch plates are
also in good condition. The lugs must not be bent,
cracked or damaged in any way.
Replace the piston spring and wave spring if either
part is distorted, warped or broken.
Check the lug grooves in the clutch retainer. The
clutch and pressure plates should slide freely in the
slots. Replace the retainer if the grooves are worn or
damaged. Also check action of the check balls in the
retainer and piston. Each check ball must move
freely and not stick.
Replace the retainer bushing if worn, scored, or
doubt exists about bushing condition.
Inspect the piston and retainer seal surfaces for
nicks or scratches. Minor scratches can be removed
with crocus cloth. However, replace the piston and/or
retainer if the seal surfaces are seriously scored.
Check condition of the fiber thrust washer and
metal output shaft thrust washer. Replace either
washer if worn or damaged.
Check condition of the seal rings on the input shaft
and clutch retainer hub. Replace the seal rings only
if worn, distorted, or damaged. The input shaft front
seal ring is teflon with chamfered ends. The rear ring
is metal with interlocking ends.
Check the input shaft for wear, or damage. Replace
the shaft if worn, scored or damaged in any way.
ASSEMBLY
(1) Soak clutch discs in transmission fluid while
assembling other clutch parts.
(2) Install new seal rings on clutch retainer hub
and input shaft, if necessary, (Fig. 227) and (Fig.
228).
(a) Be sure clutch hub seal ring is fully seated in
groove and is not twisted.
(3) Lubricate splined end of input shaft and clutch
retainer with transmission fluid. Then press input
shaft into retainer (Fig. 229). Use a suitably sized
press tool to support retainer as close to input shaft
as possible.
(4) Install input shaft snap-ring (Fig. 226).
(5) Invert retainer and press input shaft in oppo-
site direction until snap-ring is seated.
(6) Install new seals on clutch piston. Be sure lip
of each seal faces interior of clutch retainer.
(7) Lubricate lip of piston seals with generous
quantity of MopartDoor Ease. Then lubricate
retainer hub and bore with light coat of transmission
fluid.
(8) Install clutch piston in retainer. Use twisting
motion to seat piston in bottom of retainer. A thin
strip of plastic (about 0.0209thick), can be used to
guide seals into place if necessary.
CAUTION: Never push the clutch piston straight in.
This will fold the seals over causing leakage and
clutch slip. In addition, never use any type of metal
tool to help ease the piston seals into place. Metal
tools will cut, shave, or score the seals.
(9) Install piston spring in retainer and on top of
piston (Fig. 230). Concave side of spring faces down-
ward (toward piston).
(10) Install wave spring in retainer (Fig. 230). Be
sure spring is completely seated in retainer groove.
(11) Install bottom pressure plate (Fig. 225).
Ridged side of plate faces downward (toward piston)
and flat side toward clutch pack.
(12) Install first clutch disc in retainer on top of
bottom pressure plate. Then install a clutch plate fol-
lowed by a clutch disc until entire clutch pack is
installed (4 discs and 3 plates are required) (Fig.
225).
(13) Install top pressure plate.
(14) Install selective snap-ring. Be sure snap-ring
is fully seated in retainer groove.
(15) Using a suitable gauge bar and dial indicator,
measure clutch pack clearance (Fig. 231).
(a) Position gauge bar across the clutch drum
with the dial indicator pointer on the pressure
plate (Fig. 231).
(b) Using two small screw drivers, lift the pres-
sure plate and release it.
Fig. 226 Removing Input Shaft Snap-Ring
1 - REAR CLUTCH RETAINER
2 - INPUT SHAFT SNAP-RING
3 - SNAP-RING PLIERS
21 - 120 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 42REWJ
REAR CLUTCH (Continued)

(16) Position pencil magnet next to detent housing
to catch detent ball and spring. Then carefully
remove Retainer Tool 6583 and remove detent ball
and spring (Fig. 291).
(17) Remove screws attaching pressure adjusting
screw bracket to valve body and transfer plate (Fig.
292). Hold bracket firmly against spring tension
while removing last screw.
Fig. 287 Detent Ball And Spring
1 - SPECIAL TOOL 6583 POSITIONED ON DETENT HOUSING
Fig. 288 Park Rod
1 - MANUAL LEVER
2 - E-CLIP
3 - PARK ROD
Fig. 289 Throttle Lever E-Clip And Washer
1 - THROTTLE LEVER SHAFT
2 - E-CLIP AND WASHER
3 - MANUAL SHAFT
Fig. 290 Manual And Throttle Lever
1 - PARK ROD
2 - MANUAL LEVER ASSEMBLY
3 - THROTTLE LEVER
WJAUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 42RE 21 - 157
VALVE BODY (Continued)

NOTE: The 545RFE utilizes closed loop control of
pump line pressure. The pressure readings may
therefore vary greatly but should always follow line
pressure.
Some common pressures that can be measured to
evaluate pump and clutch performance are the
upshift/downshift pressures and the garage shift
pressures. The upshift/downshift pressure for all
shifts except the 4-5 shift is 120 psi. The upshift
pressure for the 4-5 shift is 130 psi. The garage shift
pressure when performing a N-R shift is 220 psi. The
garage shift pressure for the R-N and N-1 shifts is
120 psi.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - AIR CHECKING
TRANSMISSION CLUTCH OPERATION
Air-pressure testing can be used to check transmis-
sion clutch operation. The test can be conducted with
the transmission either in the vehicle or on the work
bench, as a final check.
Air-pressure testing requires that the oil pan and
valve body be removed from the transmission. The
clutch apply passages are shown (Fig. 6).
NOTE: The air supply which is used must be free of
moisture and dirt. Use a pressure of 30 psi to test
clutch operation.Apply air pressure at each port. If the clutch is
functioning, a soft thump will be heard as the clutch
is applied. The clutch application can also be felt by
touching the appropriate element while applying air
pressure. As the air pressure is released, the clutch
should also release.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CONVERTER
HOUSING FLUID LEAK
When diagnosing converter housing fluid leaks,
two items must be established before repair.
(1) Verify that a leak condition actually exists.
(2) Determined the true source of the leak.
Some suspected converter housing fluid leaks may
not be leaks at all. They may only be the result of
residual fluid in the converter housing, or excess
fluid spilled during factory fill or fill after repair.
Converter housing leaks have several potential
sources. Through careful observation, a leak source
can be identified before removing the transmission
for repair. Torque converter seal leaks tend to move
along the drive hub and onto the rear of the con-
verter. Pump cover seal tend to run down the cover
and the inside surface of the bellhousing.
Some leaks, or suspected leaks, may be particu-
larly difficult to locate. If necessary, a Mopart
approved dye may be used to locate a leak.
Fig. 5 Valve Body Pressure Tap Adapter 8258-A
1 - 545RFE TRANSMISSION
2 - TOOL 8258-A
Fig. 6 Air Pressure Test Passages
1 - LOW REVERSE CLUTCH
2 - 4TH CLUTCH
3 - 2ND CLUTCH
4 - OVERDRIVE CLUTCH
5 - UNDERDRIVE CLUTCH
6 - REVERSE CLUTCH
21 - 182 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 545RFEWJ
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 545RFE (Continued)

STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - FLUID LEVEL
CHECK
Low fluid level can cause a variety of conditions
because it allows the pump to take in air along with
the fluid. As in any hydraulic system, air bubbles
make the fluid spongy, therefore, pressures will be
low and build up slowly.
Improper filling can also raise the fluid level too
high. When the transmssion has too much fluid, the
geartrain churns up foam and cause the same condi-
tions which occur with a low fluid level.
In either case, air bubbles can cause overheating
and/or fluid oxidation, and varnishing. This can inter-
fere with normal valve, clutch, and accumulator opera-
tion. Foaming can also result in fluid escaping from the
transmission vent where it may be mistaken for a leak.
After the fluid has been checked, seat the dipstick
fully to seal out water and dirt.
The transmission has a dipstick to check oil level.
It is located on the right side of the engine. Be sure
to wipe all dirt from dipstick handle before removing.
The torque converter fills in both the P (PARK)
and N (NEUTRAL) positions. Place the selector lever
in P (PARK) to be sure that the fluid level check is
accurate.The engine should be running at idle
speed for at least one minute, with the vehicle
on level ground.At normal operating temperature(approximately 82 C. or 180 F.), the fluid level is cor-
rect if it is in the HOT region (cross-hatched area) on
the oil level indicator. The fluid level will be approx-
imately at the upper COLD hole of the dipstick at
70É F fluid temperature.
NOTE: Engine and Transmission should be at nor-
mal operating temperature before performing this
procedure.
(1) Start engine and apply parking brake.
(2) Shift the transmission into DRIVE for approxi-
mately 2 seconds.
(3) Shift the transmission into REVERSE for
approximately 2 seconds.
(4) Shift the transmission into PARK.
(5)
Hook up DRBtscan tool and select transmission.
(6) Select sensors.
(7) Read the transmission temperature value.
(8) Compare the fluid temperature value with the
chart. (Fig. 59)
(9) Adjust transmission fluid level shown on the
dipstick according to the chart.
NOTE: After adding any fluid to the transmission,
wait a minimum of 2 minutes for the oil to fully
drain from the fill tube into the transmission before
rechecking the fluid level.
(10) Check transmission for leaks.
Fig. 59 Transmission Fluid Temperature Chart
WJAUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 545RFE 21 - 229
FLUID AND FILTER (Continued)

(11) Remove the bolts that secure the upper con-
denser and transmission cooler.
(12) Carefully lift the condenser out of the vehicle.
INSTALLATION
WARNING: REVIEW THE WARNINGS AND CAU-
TIONS IN THE FRONT OF THIS SECTION BEFORE
PERFORMING THE FOLLOWING OPERATION.
(Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/
PLUMBING - WARNING) (Refer to 24 - HEATING &
AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING - CAUTION)
Any kinks or sharp bends in the refrigerant plumb-
ing will reduce the capacity of the entire air condi-
tioning system. Kinks and sharp bends reduce the
flow of refrigerant in the system. A good rule for the
flexible hose refrigerant lines is to keep the radius of
all bends at least ten times the diameter of the hose.
In addition, the flexible hose refrigerant lines should
be routed so they are at least 80 millimeters (3
inches) from the exhaust manifold.
High pressures are produced in the refrigerant sys-
tem when the air conditioning compressor is operat-
ing. Extreme care must be exercised to make sure
that each of the refrigerant system connections is
pressure-tight and leak free. It is a good practice to
inspect all flexible hose refrigerant lines at least once
a year to make sure they are in good condition and
properly routed.
CAUTION: Before removing the condenser, note the
location of each of the radiator and condenser air
seals. These seals are used to direct air through the
condenser and radiator. The air seals must be rein-
stalled in their proper locations in order for the air
conditioning and engine cooling systems to per-
form as designed.
(1) Carefully position the condenser in the vehicle.
(2) Install the bolts that secure the upper con-
denser and transmission cooler.
(3) Remove the tape or plugs from the refrigerant
line fittings on the condenser inlet and the discharge
line. Connect the discharge line to the condenser
inlet. Tighten the retaining nut to 28 N´m (250 in.
lbs.).
(4) Remove the tape or plugs from the refrigerant
line fittings on the condenser outlet and the liquid
line. Connect the liquid line to the condenser outlet.
Tighten the retaining nut to 28 N´m (250 in. lbs.).
(5) Install the headlamp mounting module and
front fascia. Refer to Body for the procedure.
(6) Install the engine air filter inlet duct.
(7) Install the bolts that secure the radiator to the
upper crossmember.(8) Install the nuts that secure the hood latch and
brace to the upper crossmember.
(9) Install the headlamps in their mounts.
(10) Install the screws attaching the grille and
headlamp mounting module to the upper crossmem-
ber of the vehicle. Refer to Body for this and further
steps in the procedure.
(11) Evacuate and Recharge the refrigerant sys-
tem. (Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDITION-
ING/PLUMBING - STANDARD PROCEDURE -
REFRIGERANT SYSTEM EVACUATE) (Refer to 24 -
HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE - REFRIGERANT SYS-
TEM CHARGE)
(12) Connect the battery negative cable.
NOTE: If the condenser is replaced, add 30 millili-
ters (1 fluid ounce) of refrigerant oil to the refriger-
ant system. Use only refrigerant oil of the type
recommended for the compressor in the vehicle.
(Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/
PLUMBING/REFRIGERANT OIL - DESCRIPTION)
A/C DISCHARGE LINE
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - 2.7L TURBO DIESEL
WARNING: REVIEW THE WARNINGS AND CAU-
TIONS IN THE FRONT OF THIS SECTION BEFORE
PERFORMING THE FOLLOWING OPERATION.
(Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/
PLUMBING - WARNING) (Refer to 24 - HEATING &
AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING - CAUTION)
(1) Disconnect and isolate the negative battery
cable.
(2) Recover the refrigerant system. (Refer to 24 -
HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE - REFRIGERANT
RECOVERY)
(3) Remove both headlamps from the vehicle. Refer
to Lamps/Lighting for the procedure.
(4) Remove the a/c high pressure transducer(Refer
to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/CON-
TROLS/A/C PRESSURE TRANSDUCER - REMOV-
AL).
(5) Remove the front fascia from the vehicle. Refer
to Front Fascia for the procedure (Fig. 7).
(6) Remove the refrigerant line retaining fastener
from the condenser inlet fitting. Remove the line and
cap the condenser inlet tube to prevent contamina-
tion of the system.
WJPLUMBING 24 - 63
A/C CONDENSER (Continued)