A/C COMPRESSOR CLUTCH
DESCRIPTION
The compressor clutch assembly consists of a sta-
tionary electromagnetic coil, a hub bearing and pul-
ley assembly, and a clutch plate (Fig. 4). The
electromagnetic coil unit and the hub bearing and
pulley assembly are each retained on the nose of the
compressor front housing with snap rings. The clutch
plate is keyed to the compressor shaft and secured
with a bolt.
OPERATION
The compressor clutch components provide the
means to engage and disengage the compressor from
the engine serpentine accessory drive belt. When the
clutch coil is energized, it magnetically draws the
clutch into contact with the pulley and drives the
compressor shaft. When the coil is not energized, the
pulley freewheels on the clutch hub bearing, which is
part of the pulley. The compressor clutch and coil are
the only serviced parts on the compressor.
The compressor clutch engagement is controlled by
several components: the a/c switch on the a/c heater
control panel, the Automatic Zone Control (AZC) con-
trol module (if the vehicle is so equipped), the evap-
orator probe, the a/c high pressure transducer, the
a/c compressor clutch relay, the body control module
(BCM) and the Powertrain Control Module (PCM).
The PCM may delay compressor clutch engagement
for up to thirty seconds. Refer to Electronic Control
Modules for more information on the PCM controls.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - COMPRESSOR
CLUTCH COIL
For circuit descriptions and diagrams, refer to the
appropriate wiring diagrams. The battery must be
fully-charged before performing the following tests.
Refer to Battery for more information.
(1) Connect an ammeter (0 to 10 ampere scale) in
series with the clutch coil terminal. Use a voltmeter
(0 to 20 volt scale) with clip-type leads for measuring
the voltage across the battery and the compressor
clutch coil.
(2) With the a/c heater mode control switch in any
a/c mode, the a/c heater control a/c switch in the ON
position, and the blower motor switch in the lowest
speed position, start the engine and run it at normal
idle.
(3) The compressor clutch coil voltage should read
within 0.2 volts of the battery voltage. If there is
voltage at the clutch coil, but the reading is not
within 0.2 volts of the battery voltage, test the clutch
coil feed circuit for excessive voltage drop and repair
as required. If there is no voltage reading at the
clutch coil, use a DRBIIItscan tool and the appro-
priate diagnostic information for testing of the com-
pressor clutch circuit. The following components
must be checked and repaired as required before you
can complete testing of the clutch coil:
²Fuses in the junction block and the Power Dis-
tribution Center (PDC)
²A/C heater mode control switch
²A/C compressor clutch relay
²A/C high pressure transducer
²A/C evaporator probe
²Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
²Body Control Module (BCM)
(4) The compressor clutch coil is acceptable if the
current draw measured at the clutch coil is 2.0 to 3.9
amperes with the electrical system voltage at 11.5 to
12.5 volts. This should only be checked with the work
area temperature at 21É C (70É F). If system voltage
is more than 12.5 volts, add electrical loads by turn-
ing on electrical accessories until the system voltage
drops below 12.5 volts.
(a) If the clutch coil current reading is four
amperes or more, the coil is shorted and should be
replaced.
(b) If the clutch coil current reading is zero, the
coil is open and should be replaced.
Fig. 4 COMPRESSOR CLUTCH - TYPICAL
1 - CLUTCH PLATE
2 - SHAFT KEY
3 - PULLEY
4 - COIL
5 - CLUTCH SHIMS
6 - SNAP RING
7 - SNAP RING
WJCONTROLS 24 - 13
(7) Remove the external snap ring that secures the
compressor clutch coil to the nose of the compressor
front housing with snap ring pliers and slide the coil
assembly off of the compressor (Fig. 8).
INSPECTION
Examine the friction surfaces of the clutch pulley
and the clutch plate for wear. The pulley and plate
should be replaced if there is excessive wear or scor-
ing.
If the friction surfaces are oily, inspect the shaft
and nose area of the compressor for refrigerant oil.
Remove the felt wick from around the shaft inside
the nose of the compressor front housing. If the felt
is saturated with refrigerant oil, the compressor
shaft seal is leaking and the compressor must be
replaced.
Check the clutch pulley bearing for roughness or
excessive leakage of grease. Replace the bearing, if
required.
INSTALLATION
(1) Align the dowel pin on the back of the clutch
field coil with the hole in the compressor front hous-
ing and press the field coil into place over the nose of
the compressor.
(2) Install the clutch coil lead wire harness retain-
ing clip on the compressor front housing and tighten
the retaining screw.(3) Install the clutch field coil and snap ring with
snap ring pliers (Special Tool C-4574). The bevel side
of the snap ring must be facing outward. Also, both
eyelets of the snap ring must be to the right or left of
the pin on the compressor. Press in on the snap ring
to be certain that it is properly seated in the groove.
CAUTION: If the snap ring is not fully seated in the
groove it will vibrate out, resulting in a clutch fail-
ure and severe damage to the front housing of the
compressor.
(4) Install the pulley assembly onto the compres-
sor. If necessary, place a block of wood on the friction
surface and tap gently with a hammer (Fig. 9).
CAUTION: Do not mar the pulley friction surface.
(5) Install the pulley assembly retaining snap ring
(bevel side outward) with snap ring pliers (Special
Tool C-4574). Press in on the snap ring to be certain
that it is properly seated in the groove.
(6) If the original clutch plate assembly and pulley
assembly are to be reused, the old shim(s) can be
used. If not, place a stack of shim(s) equal to the old
shim(s) on the shaft against the shoulder.
(7) Install the clutch plate assembly onto the
shaft.
(8) With the clutch plate assembly tight against
the shim(s), measure the air gap between the clutch
plate and the pulley face with feeler gauges. The air
Fig. 8 CLUTCH COIL SNAP RING
1 - SNAP RING PLIERS
2 - CLUTCH COIL
3 - SNAP RING
4 - COMPRESSOR
Fig. 9 PULLEY ASSEMBLY INSTALL
1 - PULLEY ASSEMBLY
2 - WOOD BLOCK
WJCONTROLS 24 - 15
A/C COMPRESSOR CLUTCH (Continued)
gap should be between 0.35 to 0.65 millimeter (0.014
to 0.026 inch). If the proper air gap is not obtained,
add or subtract shims as needed until the desired air
gap is obtained.
(9) Install the compressor shaft bolt. Tighten the
bolt to 13 N´m (115 in. lbs.).
NOTE: The shims may compress after tightening
the shaft bolt. Check the air gap in four or more
places to verify the air gap is still correct. Spin the
pulley before performing a final check of the air
gap.
(10) To complete the installation, (Refer to 24 -
HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING/A/C
COMPRESSOR - INSTALLATION)
A/C COMPRESSOR CLUTCH
RELAY
DESCRIPTION
The compressor clutch relay is a International
Standards Organization (ISO) micro-relay. The termi-
nal designations and functions are the same as a con-
ventional ISO relay. However, the micro-relay
terminal orientation (footprint) is different, the cur-
rent capacity is lower, and the relay case dimensions
are smaller than those of the conventional ISO relay.
OPERATION
The compressor clutch relay is a electromechanical
device that switches battery current to the compres-
sor clutch coil when the Powertrain Control Module
(PCM) grounds the coil side of the relay. The PCM
responds to inputs from the a/c compressor switch on
the a/c heater control panel, the Automatic Zone Con-
trol (AZC) control module (if the vehicle is so
equipped), the a/c fin probe, and the a/c high pres-
sure transducer. (Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR
CONDITIONING/CONTROLS/A/C COMPRESSOR
CLUTCH RELAY - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING)
The compressor clutch relay is located in the Power
Distribution Center (PDC) in the engine compart-
ment. Refer to the PDC label for relay identification
and location.
The compressor clutch relay cannot be repaired
and, if faulty or damaged, it must be replaced.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - A/C COMPRESSOR
CLUTCH RELAY
For circuit descriptions and diagrams, refer to the
appropriate wiring information.
The compressor clutch relay (Fig. 10) is located in
the Power Distribution Center (PDC). Refer to the
PDC label for relay identification and location.Remove the relay from the PDC to perform the fol-
lowing tests:
(1) A relay in the de-energized position should
have continuity between terminals 87A and 30, and
no continuity between terminals 87 and 30. If OK, go
to Step 2. If not OK, replace the faulty relay.
(2) Resistance between terminals 85 and 86 (elec-
tromagnet) should be 75 5 ohms. If OK, go to Step
3. If not OK, replace the faulty relay.
(3) Connect a battery to terminals 85 and 86.
There should now be continuity between terminals
30 and 87, and no continuity between terminals 87A
and 30. If OK, see the Relay Circuit Test procedure
in this group. If not OK, replace the faulty relay.
RELAY CIRCUIT TEST
For circuit descriptions and diagrams, refer to the
appropriate wiring information..
(1) The relay common feed terminal cavity (30) is
connected to fused battery feed. There should be bat-
tery voltage at the cavity for relay terminal 30 at all
times. If OK, go to Step 2. If not OK, repair the open
circuit to the fuse in the PDC as required.
(2) The relay normally closed terminal (87A) is not
used in this application. Go to Step 3.
(3) The relay normally open terminal cavity (87) is
connected to the compressor clutch coil. There should
be continuity between this cavity and the A/C com-
pressor clutch relay output circuit cavity of the com-
pressor clutch coil wire harness connector. If OK, go
to Step 4. If not OK, repair the open circuit as
required.
(4) The relay coil battery terminal (86) is con-
nected to the fused ignition switch output (run/start)
circuit. There should be battery voltage at the cavity
for relay terminal 86 with the ignition switch in the
On position. If OK, go to Step 5. If not OK, repair the
Fig. 10 A/C COMPRESSOR CLUTCH RELAY
30 - COMMON FEED
85 - COIL GROUND
86 - COIL BATTERY
87 - NORMALLY OPEN
87A - NORMALLY CLOSED
24 - 16 CONTROLSWJ
A/C COMPRESSOR CLUTCH (Continued)
(a) If the refrigerant system fails to reach the
specified vacuum, the system has a leak that must
be corrected. (Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CON-
DITIONING/PLUMBING - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING - REFRIGERANT SYSTEM LEAKS)
(b) If the refrigerant system maintains the spec-
ified vacuum for five minutes, restart the vacuum
pump, open the suction and discharge valves and
evacuate the system for an additional ten minutes.
(3) Close all of the valves, and turn off the charg-
ing station vacuum pump.
(4) The refrigerant system is now ready to be
charged with R-134a refrigerant. (Refer to 24 -
HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE - REFRIGERANT SYS-
TEM CHARGE)
STANDARD PROCEDURE - REFRIGERANT
SYSTEM CHARGE
WARNING: REVIEW THE WARNINGS AND CAU-
TIONS IN THE FRONT OF THIS SECTION BEFORE
PERFORMING THE FOLLOWING OPERATION.
(Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/
PLUMBING - WARNING) (Refer to 24 - HEATING &
AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING - CAUTION)
After the refrigerant system has been tested for
leaks and evacuated, a refrigerant charge can be
injected into the system. (Refer to 24 - HEATING &
AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING - SPECIFICA-
TIONS - CHARGE CAPACITY)
A R-134a refrigerant recovery/recycling/charging
station that meets SAE Standard J2210 must be
used to charge the refrigerant system with R-134a
refrigerant. Refer to the operating instructions sup-
plied by the equipment manufacturer for proper care
and use of this equipment.
PARTIAL CHARGE METHOD
WARNING: REVIEW THE WARNINGS AND CAU-
TIONS IN THE FRONT OF THIS SECTION BEFORE
PERFORMING THE FOLLOWING OPERATION.
(Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/
PLUMBING - WARNING) (Refer to 24 - HEATING &
AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING - CAUTION)
The partial charge method is used to add a partial
charge to a refrigerant system that is low on refrig-
erant. To perform this procedure the evaporator inlet
and outlet tube temperatures are measured. The
temperature difference is measured with a tempera-
ture meter with one or two clamp-on thermocouple
probes. The difference between the evaporator inlet
and outlet tube temperatures will determine the
amount of refrigerant needed.Before adding a partial refrigerant charge, check
for refrigerant system leaks. (Refer to 24 - HEATING
& AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING - REFRIGERANT SYSTEM LEAKS)
If a leak is found, make the necessary repairs before
attempting a full or partial refrigerant charge.
(1) Attach a manifold gauge set to the refrigerant
system service ports.
(2) Attach the two clamp-on thermocouple probes
to the inlet and outlet tubes of the evaporator coil.
²If a single thermocouple probe is used, attach
the probe to the evaporator inlet tube just before the
collar of the refrigerant line connector fitting. The
probe must make contact with the bottom surface of
the evaporator inlet tube.
²If dual thermocouple probes are used, attach
probe 1 to the evaporator inlet tube, and probe 2 to
the evaporator outlet tube. Attach both probes to the
evaporator tubes just before the collar of the refrig-
erant line connector fittings. The probes must make
contact with the bottom surfaces of the evaporator
inlet and outlet tubes.
(3) Open all of the windows or doors of the passen-
ger compartment.
(4) Set the A/C button on the A/C Heater controls
to the on position, the temperature control knob in
the full cool position, select Recirculation Mode, and
place the blower motor switch in the highest speed
position.
(5) Start the engine and hold the engine idle speed
at 1,000 rpm. Allow the engine to warm up to normal
operating temperature.
(6) The compressor clutch may cycle, depending
upon ambient temperature, humidity, and the refrig-
erant system charge level.
(7) Hold the engine idle speed at 1,000 rpm.
(8) Allow three to five minutes for the refrigerant
system to stabilize, then record the temperatures of
the evaporator inlet and outlet tubes.
²If a single probe is used, record the temperature
of the evaporator inlet tube. Then remove the probe
from the inlet tube and attach it to the evaporator
outlet tube just before the collar of the refrigerant
line connector fitting. The probe must make contact
with the bottom surface of the evaporator outlet tube.
Allow the thermocouple and meter time to stabilize,
then record the temperature of the evaporator outlet
tube. Subtract the inlet tube temperature reading
from the outlet tube temperature reading.
²If dual probes are used, record the temperatures
of both the evaporator inlet and outlet tubes. Then
subtract the inlet tube temperature reading from the
outlet tube temperature reading.
(9) If the measured temperature differential is
higher than 22É C to 26É C (40É F to 47É F), add 0.4
kilograms (14 ounces) of refrigerant.
24 - 56 PLUMBINGWJ
PLUMBING (Continued)
The high pressure relief valve vents only enough
refrigerant to reduce the system pressure, and then
re-seats itself. The majority of the refrigerant is con-
served in the system. If the valve vents refrigerant, it
does not mean that the valve is faulty.
The high pressure relief valve is a factory-cali-
brated unit. The valve cannot be adjusted or
repaired, and must not be removed or otherwise dis-
turbed. The valve is only serviced as a part of the
compressor assembly.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - COMPRESSOR
NOISE
When investigating an air conditioning related
noise, you must first know the conditions under
which the noise occurs. These conditions include:
weather, vehicle speed, transmission in gear or neu-
tral, engine speed, engine temperature, and any
other special conditions. Noises that develop during
air conditioning operation can often be misleading.
For example: What sounds like a failed front bearing
or connecting rod, may be caused by loose bolts, nuts,
mounting brackets, or a loose compressor clutch
assembly.
Drive belts are speed sensitive. At different engine
speeds and depending upon belt tension, belts can
develop noises that are mistaken for a compressor
noise. Improper belt tension can cause a misleading
noise when the compressor clutch is engaged, which
may not occur when the compressor clutch is disen-
gaged. Check the serpentine drive belt condition and
tension as described in Cooling before beginning this
procedure.
(1) Select a quiet area for testing. Duplicate the
complaint conditions as much as possible. Switch the
compressor on and off several times to clearly iden-
tify the compressor noise. Listen to the compressor
while the clutch is engaged and disengaged. Probe
the compressor with an engine stethoscope or a long
screwdriver with the handle held to your ear to bet-
ter localize the source of the noise.
(2) Loosen all of the compressor mounting hard-
ware and retighten. Tighten the compressor clutch
mounting nut. Be certain that the clutch coil is
mounted securely to the compressor, and that the
clutch plate and pulley are properly aligned and have
the correct air gap. (Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR
CONDITIONING/CONTROLS/A/C COMPRESSOR
CLUTCH - INSTALLATION)
(3) To duplicate a high-ambient temperature condi-
tion (high head pressure), restrict the air flow
through the condenser. Install a manifold gauge set
to be certain that the discharge pressure does not
exceed 2760 kPa (400 psi).
(4) Check the refrigerant system plumbing for
incorrect routing, rubbing or interference, which cancause unusual noises. Also check the refrigerant lines
for kinks or sharp bends that will restrict refrigerant
flow, which can cause noises. (Refer to 24 - HEAT-
ING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING - CAU-
TION - REFRIGERANT HOSES/LINES/TUBES
PRECAUTIONS)
(5) If the noise is from opening and closing of the
high pressure relief valve, reclaim, evacuate, and
recharge the refrigerant system. (Refer to 24 - HEAT-
ING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING - STAN-
DARD PROCEDURE - REFRIGERANT RECOVERY)
(Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/
PLUMBING - STANDARD PROCEDURE - REFRIG-
ERANT SYSTEM EVACUATE) (Refer to 24 -
HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE - REFRIGERANT SYS-
TEM CHARGE)If the high pressure relief valve still
does not seat properly, replace the a/c compressor.
(Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/
PLUMBING/A/C COMPRESSOR - REMOVAL)
(6) If the noise is from liquid slugging on the suc-
tion line, check the refrigerant oil level and the
refrigerant system charge. (Refer to 24 - HEATING
& AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING/REFRIGER-
ANT OIL - STANDARD PROCEDURE) (Refer to 24 -
HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING -
SPECIFICATIONS - CHARGE CAPACITY).
(7) If the noise continues, replace the compressor
and repeat Step 1.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL
The compressor may be removed and repositioned
without disconnecting the refrigerant lines or dis-
charging the refrigerant system. Discharging is not
necessary if servicing the compressor clutch or clutch
coil, the engine, the cylinder head, or the generator.
WARNING: REVIEW THE WARNINGS AND CAU-
TIONS IN THE FRONT OF THIS SECTION BEFORE
PERFORMING THE FOLLOWING OPERATION.
(Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/
PLUMBING - WARNING) (Refer to 24 - HEATING &
AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING - CAUTION)
(1) Recover the refrigerant from the system. (Refer
to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMB-
ING - STANDARD PROCEDURE - REFRIGERANT
RECOVERY)
(2) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative
cable.
(3) Remove the serpentine drive belt. Refer to
Cooling for the procedures.
(4) Unplug the compressor clutch coil wire harness
connector.
24 - 58 PLUMBINGWJ
A/C COMPRESSOR (Continued)
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION
WARNING: REVIEW THE WARNINGS AND CAU-
TIONS IN THE FRONT OF THIS SECTION BEFORE
PERFORMING THE FOLLOWING OPERATION.
(Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/
PLUMBING - WARNING) (Refer to 24 - HEATING &
AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING - CAUTION)
Any kinks or sharp bends in the refrigerant plumb-
ing will reduce the capacity of the entire air condi-
tioning system. Kinks and sharp bends reduce the
flow of refrigerant in the system. A good rule for the
flexible hose refrigerant lines is to keep the radius of
all bends at least ten times the diameter of the hose.
In addition, the flexible hose refrigerant lines should
be routed so they are at least 80 millimeters (3
inches) from the exhaust manifold.
High pressures are produced in the refrigerant sys-
tem when the air conditioning compressor is operat-
ing. Extreme care must be exercised to make sure
that each of the refrigerant system connections is
pressure-tight and leak free. It is a good practice to
inspect all flexible hose refrigerant lines at least once
a year to make sure they are in good condition and
properly routed.
NOTE: If a replacement compressor is being
installed, be certain to check the refrigerant oil
level. (Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/
PLUMBING/REFRIGERANT OIL - STANDARD PRO-
CEDURE) Use only refrigerant oil of the type
recommended for the compressor in the vehicle.
(Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/
PLUMBING/REFRIGERANT OIL - DESCRIPTION)
(1) Install the compressor. Tighten the 4.0L
mounting bolts fastening the compressor to the block
to 45-65 N´m (35-50 ft. lbs.). Tighten the mounting
bolts holding the rear brace to the compressor and
block to 40-55 N´m (30-40 ft. lbs.). Tighten the 4.7L
compressor front mounting screws to 45-65 N´m
(35-50 ft. lbs.), and the rear mounting screws to
35-45 N´m (25-35 ft. lbs.).
(2) Remove the tape or plugs from all of the
opened refrigerant line fittings. Install the suction
line and discharge line fittings to the manifold on the
compressor. Tighten the mounting bolts to 25.4 N´m
(225 in. lbs.).
(3) Install the serpentine drive belt. Refer to Cool-
ing for the procedures.
(4) Plug in the compressor clutch coil wire harness
connector.
(5) Connect the battery negative cable.(6) Evacuate the refrigerant system. (Refer to 24 -
HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE - REFRIGERANT SYS-
TEM EVACUATE)
(7) Charge the refrigerant system. (Refer to 24 -
HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE - REFRIGERANT SYS-
TEM CHARGE)
INSTALLATION - 2.7L TURBO DIESEL
CAUTION: Check the oil level before installing the
new compressor. (Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR
CONDITIONING/PLUMBING/REFRIGERANT OIL -
STANDARD PROCEDURE)
WARNING: REVIEW THE WARNINGS AND CAU-
TIONS IN THE FRONT OF THIS SECTION BEFORE
PERFORMING THE FOLLOWING OPERATION.
(Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/
PLUMBING - WARNING) (Refer to 24 - HEATING &
AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING - CAUTION)
Any kinks or sharp bends in the refrigerant plumb-
ing will reduce the capacity of the entire air condi-
tioning system. Kinks and sharp bends reduce the
flow of refrigerant in the system. A good rule for the
flexible hose refrigerant lines is to keep the radius of
all bends at least ten times the diameter of the hose.
In addition, the flexible hose refrigerant lines should
be routed so they are at least 80 millimeters (3
inches) from the exhaust manifold.
High pressures are produced in the refrigerant sys-
tem when the air conditioning compressor is operat-
ing. Extreme care must be exercised to make sure
that each of the refrigerant system connections is
pressure-tight and leak free. It is a good practice to
inspect all flexible hose refrigerant lines at least once
a year to make sure they are in good condition and
properly routed.
(1) Lift the compressor into position and install
the (4) mounting bolts. Torque the bolts to 41 N´m
(30 ft. lbs.).
(2) Connect the compressor clutch electrical con-
nector.
(3) Install both refrigerant lines on the compressor.
Make certain the sealing 0-rings are free of tears and
well lubricated with R-134a refrigerant oil. Torque
the line retaining bolts to 22 N´m (200 in. lbs.).
(4) Install the front splash shield (if equipped).
(5) Lower the vehicle from the hoist.
(6) Install the accessory drive belt on the compres-
sor clutch. Refer to Cooling for the procedure.
(7) Evacuate the refrigerant system. (Refer to 24 -
HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING -
WJPLUMBING 24 - 61
A/C COMPRESSOR (Continued)
REFRIGERANT
DESCRIPTION
The refrigerant used in this air conditioning sys-
tem is a HydroFluoroCarbon (HFC), type R-134a.
Unlike R-12, which is a ChloroFluoroCarbon (CFC),
R-134a refrigerant does not contain ozone-depleting
chlorine. R-134a refrigerant is a non-toxic, non-flam-
mable, clear, and colorless liquefied gas.
Even though R-134a does not contain chlorine, it
must be reclaimed and recycled just like CFC-type
refrigerants. This is because R-134a is a greenhouse
gas and can contribute to global warming.
OPERATION
R-134a refrigerant is not compatible with R-12
refrigerant in an air conditioning system. Even a
small amount of R-12 added to an R-134a refrigerant
system will cause compressor failure, refrigerant oil
sludge or poor air conditioning system performance.
In addition, the PolyAlkylene Glycol (PAG) synthetic
refrigerant oils used in an R-134a refrigerant system
are not compatible with the mineral-based refriger-
ant oils used in an R-12 refrigerant system.
R-134a refrigerant system service ports, service
tool couplers and refrigerant dispensing bottles have
all been designed with unique fittings to ensure that
an R-134a system is not accidentally contaminated
with the wrong refrigerant (R-12). There are also
labels posted in the engine compartment of the vehi-
cle and on the compressor identifying to service tech-
nicians that the air conditioning system is equipped
with R-134a.
REFRIGERANT OIL
DESCRIPTION
The refrigerant oil used in R-134a refrigerant sys-
tems is a synthetic-based, PolyAlkylene Glycol (PAG),
wax-free lubricant. Mineral-based R-12 refrigerant
oils are not compatible with PAG oils, and should
never be introduced to an R-134a refrigerant system.
There are different PAG oils available, and each
contains a different additive package. The 10PA17
compressor used in this vehicle is designed to use an
ND8 PAG refrigerant oil. Use only refrigerant oil of
this same type to service the refrigerant system.
OPERATION
After performing any refrigerant recovery or recy-
cling operation, always replenish the refrigerant sys-
tem with the same amount of the recommended
refrigerant oil as was removed. Too little refrigerant
oil can cause compressor damage, and too much can
reduce air conditioning system performance.PAG refrigerant oil is much more hygroscopic than
mineral oil, and will absorb any moisture it comes
into contact with, even moisture in the air. The PAG
oil container should always be kept tightly capped
until it is ready to be used. After use, recap the oil
container immediately to prevent moisture contami-
nation.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - REFRIGERANT OIL
LEVEL
When an air conditioning system is assembled at
the factory, all components except the compressor are
refrigerant oil free. After the refrigerant system has
been charged and operated, the refrigerant oil in the
compressor is dispersed throughout the refrigerant
system. The accumulator, evaporator, condenser, and
compressor will each retain a significant amount of
the needed refrigerant oil.
It is important to have the correct amount of oil in
the refrigerant system. This ensures proper lubrica-
tion of the compressor. Too little oil will result in
damage to the compressor. Too much oil will reduce
the cooling capacity of the air conditioning system.
It will not be necessary to check the oil level in the
compressor or to add oil, unless there has been an oil
loss. An oil loss may occur due to a rupture or leak
from a refrigerant line, a connector fitting, a compo-
nent, or a component seal. If a leak occurs, add 30
milliliters (1 fluid ounce) of refrigerant oil to the
refrigerant system after the repair has been made.
Refrigerant oil loss will be evident at the leak point
by the presence of a wet, shiny surface around the
leak.
Refrigerant oil must be added when a accumulator,
evaporator coil, or condenser are replaced. See the
Refrigerant Oil Capacities chart. When a compressor
is replaced, the refrigerant oil must be drained from
the old compressor and measured. Drain all of the
refrigerant oil from the new compressor, then fill the
new compressor with the same amount of refrigerant
oil that was drained out of the old compressor.
Refrigerant Oil Capacities
Component ml fl oz
A/C System 130 4.40
Receiver Drier 70 2.37
Condenser 10 0.34
Evaporator 50 1.69
Compressordrain and measure
the oil from the old
compressor - see
text.
WJPLUMBING 24 - 75
(14) Remove the snap ring from the hub and
remove the clutch field coil (Fig. 22). Slide the clutch
field coil off of the hub.
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION
(1) Install Viscous Heater to engine mounting
bracket.
(2) Install the Viscous Heater mounting bolts and
tighten to 33 N´m ( 25 ft. lbs.).
(3) Plug the wiring harness electrical connector to
the Viscous Heater clutch.
(4) Install heater hoses to the Viscous Heater con-
nections.
(5) Install heater hose clamps to Viscous Heater
connections.
(6) Install the engine accessory drive belt(Refer to
7 - COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
INSTALLATION).
(7) Refill the engine cooling system(Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ENGINE - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(8) Reconnect the battery negative cable.
(9) Operate vehicle and check for any coolant
leaks, repair as required.
INSTALLATION - VISCOUS HEATER CLUTCH
(1) Install the clutch field coil and snap ring.
(2) Install the screw and retainer on the clutch coil
lead wire harness on the viscous heater housing.
Tighten the screw to 2.2 N´m (20 in. lbs.)
(3) Align the rotor assembly squarely on the front
housing hub.
(4) Install the rotor bearing asembly with the
installer (Special Tool C-6871 or equalivent). Threadthe installer on the shaft, then turn the nut until the
rotor asembly is seated.
(5) Install the external front housing snap ring
with snap ring pliers. The bevel side of the snap ring
must be facing outward. Press the snap ring to make
sure it is properly seated in the groove.
CAUTION: If the snap ring is not fully seated in the
groove it will vibrate out, resulting in a clutch fail-
ure and severe damage to the front housing of the
compressor.
(6) Install the original clutch shims on the shaft.
(7) Install the clutch plate. Install the shaft hex
nut and tighten to 15±20 N´m (11±15 ft. lbs.).
(8) Check the clutch air gap with a feeler gauge
(Fig. 23). If the gap does not meet specification, add
or substract shims as required. The air gap specifica-
tion if 0.41 to 0.79 millimeters (0.016 to 0.031 inch-
es).
NOTE: The air gap is determined by the spacer
shims. When installing an original, or a new clutch
assembly, try the original shims first. When install-
ing a new clutch (and not having the old shims
available) use a 1.0, 0.50 and 0.13 millimeter (0.040,
0.020 and 0.005 inch) shim from the new clutch
hardware package that is provided with the new
clutch.
(9) Reinstall the viscous heater to the mounting
bracket. Tighten the mounting screws to 33 N´m (25
ft. lbs.).
(10) Reinstall the battery negative cable.
Fig. 22 CLUTCH FIELD COIL SNAP RING REMOVE-
typical
1 - COIL
2 - SNAP RING PLIERS
Fig. 23 CHECK CLUTCH AIR GAP-typical
1 - FEELER GAUGE
24 - 78 PLUMBINGWJ
VISCOUS HEATER (Continued)