2002 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE engine oil drain

²Fan control valve
²Two stage G-rotor hydraulic drive
The hydraulic fan and drive is not serviceable.
Therefore any failure of the fan blade, hydraulic fan
drive or fan shroud requires replacement of the fan
module because the fan blade and hydraulic fan drive
are matched and balanced as a system and servicing
either separately would disrupt this balance.
For hydraulic fluid routing information refer to
(Fig. 5).
CAUTION: Do not attempt to service the hydraulic
cooling fan or fan drive separately replace the cooling
module as an assembly. Failure to do so may cause
severe damage to the hydraulic cooling fan assembly.
OPERATION
The hydraulic radiator cooling fan used on the
Grand Cherokee with the 4.7L engine replaces both
the electric fan and the engine driven mechanical
fan. The use of this hydraulic fan provides the 4.7L
equipped Grand Cherokee with heavy trailer tow
capability while at the same time reducing unneces-
sary power drain on both the engine and the vehicles
electrical system.
HYDRAULIC FAN STRATEGY
The hydraulic radiator cooling fan is controlled by
the JTEC. A PWM (Pulse With Modulated) signal
from the JTEC controls the fan from 0 to 100% of the
available fan speed. There are four inputs to the
JTEC that determine what speed percentage of fan is
required by the vehicle. These inputs are:
²Engine Coolant Temperature
²Transmission Oil Temperature
²Battery Temperature
²A/C System Pressure
By monitoring these four parameters, the JTEC
can determine if cooling airflow is required. If airflow
is required, the JTEC will slowly ramp up (speed up)
the fan speed until the parameter(s) are under con-
trol. Once the temperature or pressure is reduced to
within operating parameters the fan will ramp up,
ramp down, or hold its speed to maintain the temper-
ature / pressure requirements.
NOTE: Even if the JTEC is not requesting fan on
operation the fan blade will usually spin between
100 and 500 RPM when the vehicle is at idle. This is
due to a controlled minimum oil flow requirement
through the fan drive motor.
ACTIVATING THE HYDRAULIC FAN WITH THE DRB
Under the Engine Systems test heading, there is a
subheading. ªHydraulic fan solenoid testº, that has
the selections, on /off. Activating the fan with the
DRB will run the fan at 100% duty cycle, which will
help troubleshoot any system problems, and also help
with the deaeration procedure.
NOTE: Engine must be running to activate the fan
with the DRB.
RADIATOR COOLING FAN HYDRAULIC FLUID PATH
Hydraulic fluid is pumped through the power
steering pump, from the pump the fluid travels
though a high pressure delivery line to the fan drive
motor. As fluid is diverted through the G-rotors, rota-
tional motion is created as fluid moves from the high-
pressure (inlet) side of the motor to the low-pressure
(outlet) side. Fluid exiting the drive motor is divided
into two paths. Path one continues through a high
pressure delivery line to the vehicles steering gear to
provide steering assist. and path two sends fluid
back to the power steering pump through a low pres-
sure line. Fluid exits the steering gear under low
pressure and travels through a low pressure line to
the power steering fluid cooler to be cooled before
being returned back the the power steering fluid res-
ervoir (Fig. 5).
Fig. 4 HYDRAULIC RADIATOR COOLING FAN AND
FAN DRIVE
1 - POWER STEERING FLUID COOLER
2 - RADIATOR
3 - HIGH PRESSURE LINE FROM STEERING GEAR PUMP TO
HYDRAULIC FAN MOTOR
4 - HYDRAULIC FAN MOTOR
5 - HIGH PRESSURE LINE FROM HYDRAULIC FAN MOTOR TO
STEERING GEAR
6 - FAN SHROUD
7 - 28 ENGINEWJ
RADIATOR FAN - 4.7L (Continued)

NOTE: There is a steering flow control valve located
in the fan drive motor. This valve operates like the
flow control valve found in the typical power steer-
ing pump. Because of the design of the valve steer-
ing assist can not be effected by the radiator
cooling fan even during fan drive failure.
REMOVAL
(1) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(2) Drain cooling system.(Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE)
NOTE: The hydraulic fan drive is driven by the
power steering pump. When removing lines or
hoses from fan drive assembly use a drain pan to
catch any power steering fluid that may exit the fan
drive or the lines and hoses.NOTE: When ever the high pressure line fittings are
removed from the hydraulic fan drive the O-rings
must be replaced.
(3) Disconnect two high pressure lines at hydraulic
fan drive (Fig. 6). Remove and discard o-rings from
line fittings.
(4) Disconnect low pressure return hose at hydrau-
lic fan drive (Fig. 6).
NOTE: The lower mounting bolts can only be
accessed from under vehicle.
(5) Remove two lower mounting bolts from the
shroud (Fig. 8).
(6) Lower vehicle.
(7) Disconnect the electrical connector for the fan
control solenoid.
(8) Disconnect the radiator upper hose at the radi-
ator and position out of the way.
(9) Disconnect the power steering gear outlet hose
and fluid return hose at the cooler (Fig. 7).
Fig. 5 HYDRAULIC FAN FLUID FLOW CIRCUIT
1 - POWER STEERING RESERVOIR
2 - POWER STEERING PUMP
3 - HYDRAULIC FAN DRIVE ASSEMBLY
4 - FAN BLADE5 - HYDRAULIC FAN CONTROL SOLENOID
6 - POWER STEERING OIL COOLER
7 - STEERING GEAR
WJENGINE 7 - 29
RADIATOR FAN - 4.7L (Continued)

(3) Raise vehicle.
(4) Remove engine cylinder block drain plug(s)
located on the sides of cylinder block above the oil
pan rail (Fig. 16).
(5) Remove power cord from block heater.(6) Loosen screw at center of block heater. Remove
heater assembly (Fig. 17).
REMOVALÐ4.0L ENGINE
(1) Disconnect negative battery cable from battery.
(2) Drain coolant from radiator (Refer to 7 -
COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(3) Raise vehicle.
(4) Remove engine cylinder block drain plug(s)
located on the sides of cylinder block above the oil
pan rail (Fig. 18).
(5) Remove power cord from block heater.
(6) Loosen screw at center of block heater. Remove
heater assembly (Fig. 19).
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATIONÐ4.7L ENGINE
(1) Thoroughly clean cylinder block core hole and
block heater seat.
(2) Insert block heater assembly with element loop
pointing at twelve o'clock (Fig. 17).
(3) With block heater fully seated, tighten center
screw to 2 N´m (17 in. lbs.) torque.
(4) Refill cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(5) Start and warm the engine. Check for leaks.
INSTALLATIONÐ4.0L ENGINE
(1) Thoroughly clean cylinder block core hole and
block heater seat.
Fig. 15 Engine Block Heater 4.7L Engine
1 - ENGINE BLOCK HEATER
Fig. 16 Drain Plug - 4.7L Engine
1 - CYLINDER BLOCK DRAIN PLUG
2 - EXHAUST MANIFOLD AND HEAT SHIELD
Fig. 17 Engine Block Heater - 4.7L
1 - ENGINE BLOCK HEATER
7 - 34 ENGINEWJ
ENGINE BLOCK HEATER (Continued)

REMOVAL
REMOVALÐ4.0L ENGINE
WARNING: DO NOT LOOSEN THE RADIATOR
DRAINCOCK WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND PRES-
SURIZED. SERIOUS BURNS FROM THE COOLANT
CAN OCCUR.
Do not waste reusable coolant. If the solution is
clean, drain the coolant into a clean container for
reuse.
(1) Drain the coolant from the radiator until the
level is below the thermostat housing (Refer to 7 -
COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
WARNING: CONSTANT TENSION HOSE CLAMPS
ARE USED ON MOST COOLING SYSTEM HOSES.
WHEN REMOVING OR INSTALLING, USE ONLY
TOOLS DESIGNED FOR SERVICING THIS TYPE OF
CLAMP, SUCH AS SPECIAL CLAMP TOOL (NUMBER
6094) (Fig. 52). SNAP-ON CLAMP TOOL (NUMBER
HPC-20) MAY BE USED FOR LARGER CLAMPS.
ALWAYS WEAR SAFETY GLASSES WHEN SERVIC-
ING CONSTANT TENSION CLAMPS.
CAUTION: A number or letter is stamped into the
tongue of constant tension clamps. If replacement
is necessary, use only an original equipment clamp
with matching number or letter.
(2) Remove radiator upper hose and heater hose at
thermostat housing.
(3) Disconnect wiring connector at engine coolant
temperature sensor.
(4) Remove thermostat housing mounting bolts,
thermostat housing, gasket and thermostat (Fig. 24).
Discard old gasket.
(5) Clean the gasket mating surfaces.
REMOVALÐ4.7L ENGINE
WARNING: DO NOT LOOSEN RADIATOR DRAIN-
COCK WITH SYSTEM HOT AND PRESSURIZED.
SERIOUS BURNS FROM COOLANT CAN OCCUR.
Do not waste reusable coolant. If solution is clean,
drain coolant into a clean container for reuse.
If thermostat is being replaced, be sure that
replacement is specified thermostat for vehicle model
and engine type.
(1) Disconnect negative battery cable at battery.
(2) Drain cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(3) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(4) Remove splash shield.(5) Remove lower radiator hose clamp and lower
radiator hose at thermostat housing.
(6) Remove thermostat housing mounting bolts,
thermostat housing and thermostat (Fig. 25).
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATIONÐ4.0L ENGINE
(1) Install the replacement thermostat so that the
pellet, which is encircled by a coil spring, faces the
engine. All thermostats are marked on the outer
flange to indicate the proper installed position.
(a) Observe the recess groove in the engine cyl-
inder head (Fig. 26).
(b) Position thermostat in groove with arrow and
air bleed hole on outer flange pointing up.
(2) Install replacement gasket and thermostat
housing.
CAUTION: Tightening the thermostat housing
unevenly or with the thermostat out of its recess,
may result in a cracked housing.
(3) Tighten the housing bolts to 22 N´m (16 ft. lbs.)
torque.
(4) Install hoses to thermostat housing.
Fig. 24 Thermostat
1 - LONG BOLT
2 - GASKET
3 - THERMOSTAT
4 - THERMOSTAT HOUSING
5 - SHORT BOLT
7 - 38 ENGINEWJ
ENGINE COOLANT THERMOSTAT (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐ ENGINE DIAGNOSIS - MECHANICAL
ENGINE MECHANICAL DIAGNOSIS CHART
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
NOISY VALVES/LIFTERS 1. High or low oil level in crankcase 1. Check for correct oil level. Adjust
oil level by draining or adding as
needed
2. Thin or diluted oil 2. Change oil. (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL -
STANDARD PROCEDURE)
3. Low oil pressure 3. Check engine oil level. If ok,
Perform oil pressure test. (Refer to 9
- ENGINE/LUBRICATION -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING) for
engine oil pressure test/specifications
4. Dirt in tappets/lash adjusters 4. Clean/replace hydraulic tappets/
lash adjusters
5. Bent push rod(s) 5. Install new push rods
6. Worn rocker arms 6. Inspect oil supply to rocker arms
and replace worn arms as needed
7. Worn tappets/lash adjusters 7. Install new hydraulic tappets/lash
adjusters
8. Worn valve guides 8. Inspect all valve guides and
replace as necessary
9. Excessive runout of valve seats or
valve faces9. Grind valves and seats
CONNECTING ROD NOISE 1. Insufficient oil supply 1. Check engine oil level.
2. Low oil pressure 2. Check engine oil level. If ok,
Perform oil pressure test. (Refer to 9
- ENGINE/LUBRICATION -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING) engine
oil pressure test/specifications
3. Thin or diluted oil 3. Change oil to correct viscosity.
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRICATION/
OIL - STANDARD PROCEDURE) for
correct procedure/engine oil
specifications
4. Excessive connecting rod bearing
clearanceMeasure bearings for correct
clearance with plasti-gage. Repair as
necessary
5. Connecting rod journal out of
round5. Replace crankshaft or grind
journals
6. Misaligned connecting rods 6. Replace bent connecting rods
MAIN BEARING NOISE 1. Insufficient oil supply 1. Check engine oil level.
2. Low oil pressure 2. Check engine oil level. If ok,
Perform oil pressure test. (Refer to 9
- ENGINE/LUBRICATION -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING)
9 - 6 ENGINE - 4.0LWJ
ENGINE - 4.0L (Continued)

FORM-IN-PLACE GASKET AND SEALER
APPLICATION
Assembling parts using a form-in-place gasket
requires care but it's easier then using precut gaskets.
MopartGasket Maker material should be applied
sparingly 1 mm (0.040 in.) diameter or less of sealant
to one gasket surface. Be certain the material sur-
rounds each mounting hole. Excess material can eas-
ily be wiped off. Components should be torqued in
place within 15 minutes. The use of a locating dowel
is recommended during assembly to prevent smear-
ing material off the location.
MopartEngine RTV GEN II or ATF RTV gasket
material should be applied in a continuous bead
approximately 3 mm (0.120 in.) in diameter. All
mounting holes must be circled. For corner sealing, a
3.17 or 6.35 mm (1/8 or 1/4 in.) drop is placed in the
center of the gasket contact area. Uncured sealant
may be removed with a shop towel. Components
should be torqued in place while the sealant is still
wet to the touch (within 10 minutes). The usage of a
locating dowel is recommended during assembly to
prevent smearing material off the location.
MopartGasket Sealant in an aerosol can should be
applied using a thin, even coat sprayed completely
over both surfaces to be joined, and both sides of a
gasket. Then proceed with assembly. Material in a
can w/applicator can be brushed on evenly over the
sealing surfaces. Material in an aerosol can should be
used on engines with multi-layer steel gaskets.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - REPAIR DAMAGED
OR WORN THREADS
CAUTION: Be sure that the tapped holes maintain
the original center line.
Damaged or worn threads can be repaired. Essen-
tially, this repair consists of:
²Drilling out worn or damaged threads.
²Tapping the hole with a special Heli-Coil Tap, or
equivalent.
²Installing an insert into the tapped hole to bring
the hole back to its original thread size.
STANDARD PROCEDUREÐHYDROSTATIC LOCK
CAUTION: DO NOT use the starter motor to rotate
the crankshaft. Severe damage could occur.
When an engine is suspected of hydrostatic lock
(regardless of what caused the problem), follow the
steps below.
(1) Perform the Fuel Pressure Release Procedure
(Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).(2) Disconnect the negative cable(s) from the bat-
tery.
(3) Inspect air cleaner, induction system, and
intake manifold to ensure system is dry and clear of
foreign material.
(4) Place a shop towel around the spark plugs to
catch any fluid that may possibly be under pressure
in the cylinder head. Remove the spark plugs.
(5) With all spark plugs removed, rotate the crank-
shaft using a breaker bar and socket.
(6) Identify the fluid in the cylinders (coolant, fuel,
oil, etc.).
(7) Be sure all fluid has been removed from the
cylinders.
(8) Repair engine or components as necessary to
prevent this problem from occurring again.
(9) Squirt a small amount of engine oil into the
cylinders to lubricate the walls. This will prevent
damage on restart.
(10) Install new spark plugs. Tighten the spark
plugs to 41 N´m (30 ft. lbs.) torque.
(11) Drain engine oil. Remove and discard the oil
filter.
(12) Install the drain plug. Tighten the plug to 34
N´m (25 ft. lbs.) torque.
(13) Install a new oil filter.
(14) Fill engine crankcase with the specified
amount and grade of oil. (Refer to LUBRICATION &
MAINTENANCE - SPECIFICATIONS).
(15) Connect the negative cable(s) to the battery.
(16) Start the engine and check for any leaks.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - CYLINDER BORE
HONING
Before honing, stuff plenty of clean shop towels
under the bores and over the crankshaft to keep
abrasive materials from entering the crankshaft
area.
(1)
Used carefully, the Cylinder Bore Sizing Hone
C-823, equipped with 220 grit stones, is the best tool
for this job. In addition to deglazing, it will reduce
taper and out-of-round, as well as removing light scuff-
ing, scoring and scratches. Usually, a few strokes will
clean up a bore and maintain the required limits.
CAUTION: DO NOT use rigid type hones to remove
cylinder wall glaze.
(2) Deglazing of the cylinder walls may be done if
the cylinder bore is straight and round. Use a cylin-
der surfacing hone, Honing Tool C-3501, equipped
with 280 grit stones (C-3501-3810). about 20-60
strokes, depending on the bore condition, will be suf-
ficient to provide a satisfactory surface. Using honing
oil C-3501-3880, or a light honing oil, available from
major oil distributors.
9 - 10 ENGINE - 4.0LWJ
ENGINE - 4.0L (Continued)

CAUTION: DO NOT use engine or transmission oil,
mineral spirits, or kerosene.
(3) Honing should be done by moving the hone up
and down fast enough to get a crosshatch pattern.
The hone marks should INTERSECT at 40É to 60É
for proper seating of rings (Fig. 3).
(4) A controlled hone motor speed between 200 and
300 RPM is necessary to obtain the proper cross-
hatch angle. The number of up and down strokes per
minute can be regulated to get the desired 40É to 60É
angle. Faster up and down strokes increase the cross-
hatch angle.
(5) After honing, it is necessary that the block be
cleaned to remove all traces of abrasive. Use a brush
to wash parts with a solution of hot water and deter-
gent. Dry parts thoroughly. Use a clean, white, lint-
free cloth to check that the bore is clean. Oil the
bores after cleaning to prevent rusting.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ENGINE CORE AND
OIL GALLERY PLUGS
Using a blunt tool such as a drift and a hammer,
strike the bottom edge of the cup plug. With the cup
plug rotated, grasp firmly with pliers or other suit-
able tool and remove plug (Fig. 4).CAUTION: Do not drive cup plug into the casting as
restricted cooling can result and cause serious
engine problems.
Thoroughly clean inside of cup plug hole in cylin-
der block or head. Be sure to remove old sealer.
Lightly coat inside of cup plug hole with Mopart
Stud and Bearing Mount. Make certain the new plug
is cleaned of all oil or grease. Using proper drive
plug, drive plug into hole so that the sharp edge of
the plug is at least 0.5 mm (0.020 in.) inside the
lead-in chamfer.
It is not necessary to wait for curing of the sealant.
The cooling system can be refilled and the vehicle
placed in service immediately.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cable.
(2) Mark the hinge locations on the hood panel for
alignment reference during installation. Remove the
engine compartment lamp. Remove the hood.
(3) Remove the radiator drain cock and radiator
cap to drain the coolant. DO NOT waste usable cool-
ant. If the solution is clean, drain the coolant into a
clean container for reuse.
(4) Remove the upper radiator hose and coolant
recovery hose.
(5) Remove the lower radiator hose.
(6) Remove upper radiator support retaining bolts
and remove radiator support.
Fig. 3 Cylinder Bore Crosshatch Pattern
1 - CROSSHATCH PATTERN
2 - INTERSECT ANGLE
Fig. 4 Core Hole Plug Removal
1 - CYLINDER BLOCK
2 - REMOVE PLUG WITH PLIERS
3 - STRIKE HERE WITH HAMMER
4 - DRIFT PUNCH
5 - CUP PLUG
WJENGINE - 4.0L 9 - 11
ENGINE - 4.0L (Continued)

(7) Remove the fan assembly from the water pump
(Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/RADIATOR FAN -
REMOVAL).
(8) Remove the fan shroud.
(9) Disconnect the transmission fluid cooler lines
(automatic transmission).
(10) Discharge the A/C system (Refer to 24 -
HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(11) Remove the service valves and cap the com-
pressor ports.
(12) Remove the radiator or radiator/condenser (if
equipped with A/C).
(13) Disconnect the heater hoses at the engine
thermostat housing and water pump.
(14) Disconnect the accelerator cable, transmission
line pressure cable and speed control cable (if
equipped) from the throttle body.
(15) Remove cables from the bracket and secure
out of the way.
(16) Disconnect the body ground at the engine.
(17) Disconnect the following connectors and
secure their harness out of the way.
²Power steering pressure switch
²Coolant temperature sensor
²Six (6) fuel injector connectors
²Intake air temperature sensor
²Throttle position sensor
²Map sensor
²Crankshaft position sensor
²Oxygen sensor
²Camshaft position sensor
²Generator connector and B+ terminal wire
(18) Disconnect the coil rail electrical connections
and the oil pressure switch connector.
(19) Perform the fuel pressure release procedure
(Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(20) Disconnect the fuel supply line at the injector
rail (Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY/
QUICK CONNECT FITTING - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE).
(21) Remove the fuel line bracket from the intake
manifold.
(22) Remove the air cleaner assembly (Fig. 5).
(23) Disconnect the hoses from the fittings at the
steering gear.
(24) Drain the pump reservoir.
(25) Cap the fittings on the hoses and steering
gear to prevent foreign objects from entering the sys-
tem.
(26) Raise and support the vehicle.
(27) Disconnect the wires from the engine starter
motor solenoid.(28) Remove the engine starter motor (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/STARTING/STARTER MOTOR -
REMOVAL).
(29) Disconnect the oxygen sensor from the
exhaust pipe.
(30) Disconnect the exhaust pipe from the mani-
fold.
(31) Remove the exhaust pipe support.
(32) Remove the bending brace (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/STRUCT SUPPORT -
REMOVAL).
(33) Remove the engine flywheel/converter housing
access cover.
(34) Mark the converter and drive plate location.
(35) Remove the converter-to-drive plate bolts.
(36) Remove the upper engine flywheel/converter
housing bolts and loosen the bottom bolts.
(37) Remove the engine mount cushion-to-engine
compartment bracket bolts.
(38) Lower the vehicle.
(39) Attach a lifting device to the engine.
(40) Raise the engine off the front supports.
(41) Place a support or floor jack under the con-
verter (or engine flywheel) housing.
(42) Remove the remaining converter (or engine
flywheel) housing bolts.
(43) Lift the engine out of the engine compart-
ment.
Fig. 5 Air Cleaner Assembly
1 - POWER STEERING PUMP
2 - AIR CLEANER ASSEMBLY
9 - 12 ENGINE - 4.0LWJ
ENGINE - 4.0L (Continued)