REMOVAL
The overdrive unit can be removed and serviced
separately. It is not necessary to remove the entire
transmission assembly to perform overdrive unit
repairs.
If only the overdrive unit requires service, refer to
Overdrive Removal for proper procedures.
CAUTION: The transmission and torque converter
must be removed as an assembly to avoid compo-
nent damage. The converter driveplate, pump bush-
ing, or oil seal can be damaged if the converter is
left attached to the driveplate during removal. Be
sure to remove the transmission and converter as
an assembly.
(1) Disconnect battery negative cable.
(2) Disconnect and lower or remove necessary
exhaust components.
(3) Disconnect fluid cooler lines at transmission.
(4) Remove starter motor. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRI-
CAL/STARTING/STARTER MOTOR - REMOVAL)
(5) Disconnect and remove crankshaft position sen-
sor. (Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL INJEC-
TION/CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR -
REMOVAL) Retain sensor attaching bolts.
CAUTION: The crankshaft position sensor will be
damaged if the transmission is removed, or
installed, while the sensor is still bolted to the
engine block, or transmission (4.0L only). To avoid
damage, be sure to remove the sensor before
removing the transmission.
(6) Remove the bolts holding the bell housing
brace to the transmission.
(7) Remove nut holding the bell housing brace to
the engine to transmission bending brace.
(8) Remove the bell housing brace from the trans-
mission (Fig. 13).
(9) Remove the bolt holding the torque converter
cover to the transmission.
(10) Remove the torque converter cover from the
transmission.
(11) If transmission is being removed for overhaul,
remove transmission oil pan, drain fluid and reinstall
pan.
(12) Remove fill tube bracket bolts and pull tube
out of transmission. Retain fill tube seal. On4x4
models, it will also be necessary to remove bolt
attaching transfer case vent tube to converter hous-
ing.
(13) Rotate crankshaft in clockwise direction until
converter bolts are accessible. Then remove bolts one
at a time. Rotate crankshaft with socket wrench on
dampener bolt.(14) Mark propeller shaft and axle yokes for
assembly alignment. Then disconnect and remove
propeller shaft. On4x4models, remove both propel-
ler shafts.
(15) Disconnect wires from park/neutral position
switch and transmission solenoid.
(16) Disconnect gearshift cable from transmission
manual valve lever (Fig. 14).
Fig. 13 Bell Housing Brace and Converter Cover
1 - Transmission
2 - Torque Converter Cover
3 - Bellhousing Brace
Fig. 14 Transmission Shift Cable
1 - SHIFT CABLE
2 - MANUAL LEVER
3 - MANUAL LEVER
WJAUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 42RE 21 - 27
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 42RE (Continued)
(11) Move transmission forward. Then raise, lower
or tilt transmission to align converter housing with
engine block dowels.
(12) Carefully work transmission forward and over
engine block dowels until converter hub is seated in
crankshaft.
(13) Install two bolts to attach converter housing
to engine.
(14) Install the upper transmission bending braces
to the torque converter housing and the overdrive
unit. Tighten the bolts to 41 N´m (30 ft.lbs.).
(15) Install remaining torque converter housing to
engine bolts. Tighten to 68 N´m (50 ft.lbs.).
(16) Install rear transmission crossmember.
Tighten crossmember to frame bolts to 68 N´m (50
ft.lbs.).
(17) Install rear support to transmission. Tighten
bolts to 47 N´m (35 ft.lbs.).
(18) Lower transmission onto crossmember and
install bolts attaching transmission mount to cross-
member. Tighten clevis bracket to crossmember bolts
to 47 N´m (35 ft.lbs.). Tighten the clevis bracket to
rear support bolt to 68 N´m (50 ft.lbs.).
(19) Remove engine support fixture.
(20) Install crankshaft position sensor. (Refer to 14
- FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL INJECTION/CRANKSHAFT
POSITION SENSOR - INSTALLATION)
(21) Install new plastic retainer grommet on any
shift cable that was disconnected. Grommets should
not be reused. Use pry tool to remove rod from grom-
met and cut away old grommet. Use pliers to snap
new grommet into cable and to snap grommet onto
lever.
(22) Connect gearshift and throttle valve cable to
transmission.
(23) Connect wires to park/neutral position switch
and transmission solenoid connector. Be sure trans-
mission harnesses are properly routed.CAUTION: It is essential that correct length bolts be
used to attach the converter to the driveplate. Bolts
that are too long will damage the clutch surface
inside the converter.
(24) Install all torque converter-to-driveplate bolts
by hand.
(25) Verify that the torque converter is pulled
flush to the driveplate. Tighten bolts to 31 N´m (270
in. lbs.).
(26) Install converter housing access cover. Tighten
bolt to 23 N´m (200 in.lbs.).
(27) Install the bell housing brace to the torque
converter cover and the engine to transmission bend-
ing brace. Tighten the bolts and nut to 41 N´m (30
ft.lbs.).
(28) Install starter motor (Refer to 8 - ELECTRI-
CAL/STARTING/STARTER MOTOR - INSTALLA-
TION) and cooler line bracket.
(29) Connect cooler lines to transmission.
(30) Install transmission fill tube. Install new seal
on tube before installation.
(31) Install exhaust components.
(32) Install transfer case. Tighten transfer case
nuts to 35 N´m (26 ft.lbs.).
(33) Install the transfer case shift cable to the
cable support bracket and the transfer case shift
lever.
(34) Align and connect propeller shaft(s).
(35) Adjust gearshift linkage and throttle valve
cable if necessary.
(36) Lower vehicle.
(37) Fill transmission with MopartATF +4, type
9602, fluid.
21 - 42 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 42REWJ
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 42RE (Continued)
TORQUE CONVERTER LEAK POINTS
Possible sources of converter leaks are:
(1) Leaks at the weld joint around the outside
diameter weld (Fig. 7).
(2) Leaks at the converter hub weld (Fig. 7).
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ALUMINUM
THREAD REPAIR
Damaged or worn threads in the aluminum trans-
mission case and valve body can be repaired by the
use of Heli-CoilsŸ, or equivalent. This repair con-
sists of drilling out the worn-out damaged threads.
Then tap the hole with a special Heli-CoilŸ tap, or
equivalent, and installing a Heli-CoilŸ insert, or
equivalent, into the hole. This brings the hole back to
its original thread size.
Heli-CoilŸ, or equivalent, tools and inserts are
readily available from most automotive parts suppli-
ers.
REMOVAL
CAUTION: The transmission and torque converter
must be removed as an assembly to avoid compo-
nent damage. The converter driveplate, converter
hub o-ring, or oil seal can be damaged if the con-
verter is left attached to the driveplate during
removal. Be sure to remove the transmission and
converter as an assembly.
(1) Disconnect the negative battery cable.
(2) Raise and support the vehicle
(3) Mark propeller shaft and axle yokes for assem-
bly alignment.
(4) Remove the rear propeller shaft
(5) Remove the front propeller shaft.
(6) Remove the engine to transmission collar (Fig.
8).
(7) Remove the exhaust support bracket from the
rear of the transmission.
(8) Disconnect and lower or remove any necessary
exhaust components.
(9) Remove the starter motor.
(10) Rotate crankshaft in clockwise direction until
converter bolts are accessible. Then remove bolts one
at a time. Rotate crankshaft with socket wrench on
dampener bolt.
(11) Disconnect wires from solenoid and pressure
switch assembly, input and output speed sensors, and
line pressure sensor.
Fig. 7 Torque Converter Assembly
1 - TURBINE ASSEMBLY
2-STATOR
3 - CONVERTER HUB
4 - O-RING
5 - IMPELLER ASSEMBLY
6 - CONVERTER CLUTCH PISTON
7 - TURBINE HUB
Fig. 8 Transmission Collar
1 - ENGINE
2 - ENGINE TO TRANSMISSION COLLAR
3 - TRANSMISSION
WJAUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 545RFE 21 - 183
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 545RFE (Continued)
(5) Carefully insert converter in oil pump. Then
rotate converter back and forth until fully seated in
pump gears.
(6) Check converter seating with steel scale and
straightedge (Fig. 52). Surface of converter lugs
should be at least 13 mm (1/2 in.) to rear of straight-
edge when converter is fully seated.
(7) Temporarily secure converter with C-clamp.
(8) Position transmission on jack and secure it
with chains.
(9) Check condition of converter driveplate.
Replace the plate if cracked, distorted or damaged.
Also be sure transmission dowel pins are seated
in engine block and protrude far enough to
hold transmission in alignment.
(10) Apply a light coating of MopartHigh Temp
Grease to the torque converter hub pocket in the rear
pocket of the engine's crankshaft.
(11) Raise transmission and align the torque con-
verter with the drive plate and the transmission con-
verter housing with the engine block.
(12) Move transmission forward. Then raise, lower,
or tilt transmission to align the converter housing
with the engine block dowels.
(13) Carefully work transmission forward and over
engine block dowels until converter hub is seated in
crankshaft. Verify that no wires, or the transmission
vent hose, have become trapped between the engine
block and the transmission.
(14) Install two bolts to attach the transmission to
the engine.(15) Install remaining torque converter housing to
engine bolts. Tighten to 68 N´m (50 ft.lbs.).
(16) Install rear transmission crossmember.
Tighten crossmember to frame bolts to 68 N´m (50
ft.lbs.).
(17) Install rear support to transmission. Tighten
bolts to 47 N´m (35 ft.lbs.).
(18) Lower transmission onto crossmember and
install bolts attaching transmission mount to cross-
member. Tighten clevis bracket to crossmember bolts
to 47 N´m (35 ft.lbs.). Tighten the clevis bracket to
rear support bolt to 68 N´m (50 ft.lbs.).
(19) Remove engine support fixture.
(20) Install new plastic retainer grommet on any
shift cable that was disconnected. Grommets should
not be reused. Use pry tool to remove rod from grom-
met and cut away old grommet. Use pliers to snap
new grommet into cable and to snap grommet onto
lever.
(21) Connect gearshift cable to transmission.
(22) Connect wires to solenoid and pressure switch
assembly connector, input and output speed sensors,
and line pressure sensor. Be sure transmission har-
nesses are properly routed.
CAUTION: It is essential that correct length bolts be
used to attach the converter to the driveplate. Bolts
that are too long will damage the clutch surface
inside the converter.
(23) Install all torque converter-to-driveplate bolts
by hand.
(24) Verify that the torque converter is pulled
flush to the driveplate. Tighten bolts to 31 N´m (270
in. lbs.).
(25) Install starter motor and cooler line bracket.
(26) Connect cooler lines to transmission.
(27) Install transmission fill tube.
(28) Install exhaust components.
(29) Install transfer case. Tighten transfer case
nuts to 35 N´m (26 ft.lbs.).
(30) Install the transfer case shift cable to the
cable support bracket and the transfer case shift
lever.
(31) Install the transmission collar onto the trans-
mission and the engine. Tighten the bolts to 54 N´m
(40 ft.lbs.).
(32) Align and connect propeller shaft(s).
(33) Adjust gearshift cable if necessary.
(34) Lower vehicle.
(35) Fill transmission with MopartATF +4, type
9602, Automatic Transmission fluid.
Fig. 52 Checking Torque Converter Seating - Typical
1 - SCALE
2 - STRAIGHTEDGE
21 - 198 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 545RFEWJ
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 545RFE (Continued)
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - PRESSURE
GAUGES
A quality air pressure gauge is recommended to
check tire pressure. After checking the air pressure,
replace valve cap finger tight.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - TREAD WEAR
INDICATORS
Tread wear indicators are molded into the bottom
of the tread grooves. When tread depth is 1.6 mm
(1/16 in.), the tread wear indicators will appear as a
13 mm (1/2 in.) band (Fig. 15).
Tire replacement is necessary when indicators
appear in two or more grooves or if localized balding
occurs.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - TIRE WEAR
PATTERNS
Under inflation will cause wear on the shoulders of
tire. Over inflation will cause wear at the center of
tire.
Excessive camber causes the tire to run at an
angle to the road. One side of tread is then worn
more than the other (Fig. 16).
Excessive toe-in or toe-out causes wear on the
tread edges and a feathered effect across the tread
(Fig. 16).
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - TIRE NOISE OR
VIBRATION
Radial-ply tires are sensitive to force impulses
caused by improper mounting, vibration, wheel
defects, or possibly tire imbalance.
To find out if tires are causing the noise or vibra-
tion, drive the vehicle over a smooth road at varying
speeds. Note the noise level during acceleration and
deceleration. The engine, differential and exhaust
noises will change as speed varies, while the tire
noise will usually remain constant.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - REPAIRING LEAKS
For proper repairing, a radial tire must be removed
from the wheel. Repairs should only be made if the
defect, or puncture, is in the tread area (Fig. 17). The
tire should be replaced if the puncture is located in
the sidewall.
Deflate tire completely before removing the tire
from the wheel. Use lubrication such as a mild soap
solution when dismounting or mounting tire. Use
tools free of burrs or sharp edges which could dam-
age the tire or wheel rim.
Before mounting tire on wheel, make sure all rust
is removed from the rim bead and repaint if neces-
sary.
Install wheel on vehicle, and tighten to proper
torque specification (Refer to 22 - TIRES/WHEELS/
WHEELS - SPECIFICATIONS).
Fig. 15 Tread Wear Indicators
1 - TREAD ACCEPTABLE
2 - TREAD UNACCEPTABLE
3 - WEAR INDICATOR
22 - 8 TIRES/WHEELSWJ
EXTERIOR
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
BODY SIDE MOLDINGS
REMOVAL
REMOVAL±FRONT DOOR...............25
REMOVAL±REAR DOOR................26
REMOVAL±FENDER/QUARTER PANEL.....26
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION±FRONT DOOR...........26
INSTALLATION±REAR DOOR............26
INSTALLATION±FENDER/QUARTER PANEL . 26
COWL GRILLE
REMOVAL.............................27
INSTALLATION.........................27
D-PILLAR APPLIQUE
REMOVAL.............................27
INSTALLATION.........................27
D-PILLAR AIR EXHAUSTER
REMOVAL.............................27
INSTALLATION.........................27
AIR EXHAUSTER
REMOVAL.............................27
INSTALLATION.........................27
EXTERIOR NAME PLATES
REMOVAL.............................28
INSTALLATION.........................28FRONT FENDER
REMOVAL.............................28
INSTALLATION.........................29
FUEL FILL DOOR
REMOVAL.............................29
INSTALLATION.........................29
GRILLE
REMOVAL.............................29
INSTALLATION.........................29
HEADLAMP MOUNTING MODULE
REMOVAL.............................30
INSTALLATION.........................30
LUGGAGE RACK
REMOVAL.............................30
INSTALLATION.........................31
SIDE VIEW MIRROR GLASS
REMOVAL.............................31
INSTALLATION.........................31
SIDE VIEW MIRROR
REMOVAL.............................31
INSTALLATION.........................31
ROCK RAIL
REMOVAL.............................32
INSTALLATION.........................32
BODY SIDE MOLDINGS
REMOVAL
REMOVAL±FRONT DOOR
(1) Open the front door.
(2) Using a trim stick, pry the upper rear edge off
the door. Continue to the front edge of the front door
(Fig. 1).
(3) Using a heat gun, warm the adhesive tape on
the lower edge of the cladding and pull the cladding
from the door.
Fig. 1 Front Door Cladding
1 - CLADDING
WJEXTERIOR 23 - 25
COWL GRILLE
REMOVAL
(1) Remove wiper arms, refer to (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/WIPERS/WASHERS/WIPER ARMS -
REMOVAL).
(2) Remove plenum seal.
(3) Remove plastic push nuts attaching cowl cover
to cowl (Fig. 4).
(4) Remove windshield washer tubes at connector.
(5) Remove cowl cover from cowl.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position cowl cover on cowl.
(2) Install windshield washer tubes at connector.
(3) Install plastic push nuts attaching cowl cover
to cowl (Fig. 4).
(4) Install plenum seal.
(5) Install windshield wiper arms, refer to (Refer
to 8 - ELECTRICAL/WIPERS/WASHERS/WIPER
ARMS - INSTALLATION).
D-PILLAR APPLIQUE
REMOVAL
(1) Using a trim stick, carefully pry applique from
panel (Fig. 5).
INSTALLATION
(1) Position applique on panel with retainers
aligned.
(2) Press applique firmly in place.
D-PILLAR AIR EXHAUSTER
REMOVAL
(1) Remove D-pillar applique, refer to (Refer to 23
- BODY/EXTERIOR/COWL GRILLE SCREEN -
REMOVAL).
(2) Carefully pry air exhauster from D-pillar using
a flat blade screwdriver (Fig. 5).
INSTALLATION
(1) Reseal air exhauster using foam tape.
(2) Install air exhauster on D-pillar.
(3) Install D-pillar applique, refer to (Refer to 23 -
BODY/EXTERIOR/COWL GRILLE SCREEN -
INSTALLATION).
AIR EXHAUSTER
REMOVAL
(1) Remove tail lamp, refer to (Refer to 8 - ELEC-
TRICAL/LAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIOR/TAIL
LAMP - REMOVAL).
(2) Using a trim stick, pry the top of the air
exhauster downward to detach the retaining clips.
(3) Separate air exhauster from vehicle (Fig. 5).
INSTALLATION
(1) Position air exhauster in opening.
(2) Press air exhauster inward to secure.
(3) Install tail lamp, refer to (Refer to 8 - ELEC-
TRICAL/LAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIOR/TAIL
LAMP - INSTALLATION).
Fig. 4 Cowl Cover
1 - PLASTIC NUT
2 - COWL COVER
Fig. 5 D-Pillar Applique & Air Exhauster
1 - D-PILLAR EXHAUSTER
2 - D-PILLAR APPLIQUE
3 - CLIP
4 - TAIL LAMP EXHAUSTER
WJEXTERIOR 23 - 27
NOTE: The blend door sub-assembly is attached to
the housing with 2 screws, and may be removed for
service (Fig. 19).
ASSEMBLY
(1) Place the top half of the HVAC housing on the
bottom half. Be certain that each of the door pivot
pins align with the pivot holes in the HVAC housing.
(2) Install the 10 screws that secure the two hous-
ing halves to each other. Tighten the HVAC housing
screws to 2.2 N´m (20 in. lbs.).
(3) Attach the wire harness electrical connector(s)
to the mounts on the lower case at the blower motor
end of the unit.
(4) Install the 5 clips that secure the two housing
halves to each other. Check doors for binding after
replacement, and after assembly of housing.
(5) Install the screw with plastic washer holding
the lever assembly to the upper case section.
(6) Install the mode door actuator on the left side
of the housing.
INSTALLATION
WARNING: REVIEW THE WARNINGS AND CAU-
TIONS IN PLUMBING BEFORE PERFORMING THE
FOLLOWING OPERATION. (Refer to 24 - HEATING &
AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING - WARNING) (Refer
to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING -
CAUTION)Any kinks or sharp bends in the refrigerant plumb-
ing will reduce the capacity of the entire air condi-
tioning system. Kinks and sharp bends reduce the
flow of refrigerant in the system. A good rule for the
flexible hose refrigerant lines is to keep the radius of
all bends at least ten times the diameter of the hose.
In addition, the flexible hose refrigerant lines should
be routed so they are at least 80 millimeters (3
inches) from the exhaust manifold.
High pressures are produced in the refrigerant sys-
tem when the air conditioning compressor is operat-
ing. Extreme care must be exercised to make sure
that each of the refrigerant system connections is
pressure-tight and leak free. It is a good practice to
inspect all flexible hose refrigerant lines at least once
a year to make sure they are in good condition and
properly routed.
(1) Position the HVAC housing to the dash panel.
Be certain that the evaporator condensate drain tube
and the housing mounting studs are inserted into
their correct mounting holes.
(2) Install the HVAC housing mounting nuts to the
studs on the passenger compartment side of the dash
panel. Tighten the nuts to 4.5 N´m (40 in. lbs.).
(3) Connect the HVAC housing wire harness con-
nectors.
(4) Reinstall the rear floor heat ducts to the center
floor heat duct outlets.
(5) Install and tighten the nuts onto the HVAC
housing mounting studs on the engine compartment
side of the dash panel. Tighten the nuts to 7 N´m (60
in. lbs.).
(6) Reinstall the PCM to the passenger side dash
panel in the engine compartment. Refer to Electronic
Control Modules for the procedures.
(7) Reinstall the coolant reserve/overflow bottle to
the passenger side inner fender shield. Refer to Cool-
ing for the procedures.
(8) If the vehicle is equipped with the manual tem-
perature control system, connect the HVAC system
vacuum supply line connector to the tee fitting near
the heater core tubes.
(9) Unclamp/unplug the heater core hoses and
tubes. Connect the heater hoses to the heater core
tubes and fill the engine cooling system. Refer to
Cooling for the procedures.
(10) Unplug or remove the tape from the suction
line and the evaporator outlet tube fittings. Connect
the suction line to the evaporator outlet tube.
Tighten retaining nut to 28 N´m (250 in. lbs.).
(11) Unplug or remove the tape from the liquid
line and the evaporator inlet tube fittings. Connect
the liquid line to the evaporator inlet tube. Tighten
retaining nut to 28 N´m (250 in. lbs.).
(12) Evacuate the refrigerant system. (Refer to 24
- HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING -
Fig. 19 BLEND DOOR SUB-ASSEMBLY (AZC)
1 - PASSENGER SIDE BLEND DOOR
2 - BLEND DOOR SUB-ASSEMBLY
3 - DOOR PIVOT SHAFT BUSHING
4 - DOOR SHAFT LEVER
5 - DRIVER SIDE BLEND DOOR
WJDISTRIBUTION 24 - 45
HVAC HOUSING (Continued)