Carefully remove radiator pressure cap from filler
neck and check coolant level. Push down on cap to
disengage it from stop tabs. Wipe inside of filler neck
and examine lower inside sealing seat for nicks,
cracks, paint, dirt and solder residue. Inspect radia-
tor-to- reserve/overflow tank hose for internal
obstructions. Insert a wire through the hose to be
sure it is not obstructed.
Inspect cams on outside of filler neck. If cams are
damaged, seating of pressure cap valve and tester
seal will be affected.
Attach pressure tester (7700 or an equivalent) to
radiator filler neck (Fig. 6).
Operate tester pump to apply 103.4 kPa (15 psi)
pressure to system. If hoses enlarge excessively or
bulges while testing, replace as necessary. Observe
gauge pointer and determine condition of cooling sys-
tem according to following criteria:
Holds Steady:If pointer remains steady for two
minutes, serious coolant leaks are not present in sys-
tem. However, there could be an internal leak that
does not appear with normal system test pressure. If
it is certain that coolant is being lost and leaks can-
not be detected, inspect for interior leakage or per-
form Internal Leakage Test.
Drops Slowly:Indicates a small leak or seepage
is occurring. Examine all connections for seepage or
slight leakage with a flashlight. Inspect radiator,
hoses, gasket edges and heater. Seal small leak holes
with a Sealer Lubricant (or equivalent). Repair leak
holes and inspect system again with pressure
applied.
Drops Quickly:Indicates that serious leakage is
occurring. Examine system for external leakage. If
leaks are not visible, inspect for internal leakage.
Large radiator leak holes should be repaired by a
reputable radiator repair shop.INTERNAL LEAKAGE INSPECTION
Remove engine oil pan drain plug and drain a
small amount of engine oil. If coolant is present in
the pan, it will drain first because it is heavier than
oil. An alternative method is to operate engine for a
short period to churn the oil. After this is done,
remove engine dipstick and inspect for water glob-
ules. Also inspect transmission dipstick for water
globules and transmission fluid cooler for leakage.
WARNING: WITH RADIATOR PRESSURE TESTER
TOOL INSTALLED ON RADIATOR, DO NOT ALLOW
PRESSURE TO EXCEED 110 KPA (20 PSI). PRES-
SURE WILL BUILD UP QUICKLY IF A COMBUSTION
LEAK IS PRESENT. TO RELEASE PRESSURE,
ROCK TESTER FROM SIDE TO SIDE. WHEN
REMOVING TESTER, DO NOT TURN TESTER MORE
THAN 1/2 TURN IF SYSTEM IS UNDER PRESSURE.
Operate engine without pressure cap on radiator
until thermostat opens. Attach a Pressure Tester to
filler neck. If pressure builds up quickly it indicates a
combustion leak exists. This is usually the result of a
cylinder head gasket leak or crack in engine. Repair
as necessary.
If there is not an immediate pressure increase,
pump the Pressure Tester. Do this until indicated
pressure is within system range of 110 kPa (16 psi).
Fluctuation of gauge pointer indicates compression or
combustion leakage into cooling system.
Because the vehicle is equipped with a catalytic
converter,do notremove spark plug cables or short
out cylinders to isolate compression leak.
If the needle on dial of pressure tester does not
fluctuate, race engine a few times to check for an
abnormal amount of coolant or steam. This would be
emitting from exhaust pipe. Coolant or steam from
exhaust pipe may indicate a faulty cylinder head gas-
ket, cracked engine cylinder block or cylinder head.
A convenient check for exhaust gas leakage into
cooling system is provided by a commercially avail-
able Block Leak Check tool. Follow manufacturers
instructions when using this product.
COMBUSTION LEAKAGE TEST - WITHOUT
PRESSURE TESTER
DO NOT WASTE reusable coolant. If solution is
clean, drain coolant into a clean container for reuse.
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE CYLINDER BLOCK
DRAIN PLUGS OR LOOSEN RADIATOR DRAIN-
COCK WITH SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER PRESSURE.
SERIOUS BURNS FROM COOLANT CAN OCCUR.
Drain sufficient coolant to allow thermostat
removal. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/ENGINE
COOLANT THERMOSTAT - REMOVAL). Remove
Fig. 6 Pressure Testing Cooling SystemÐTypical
1 - TYPICAL COOLING SYSTEM PRESSURE TESTER
WJCOOLING 7 - 11
COOLING (Continued)
motor that is secured with screws to the wiper motor
and to the liftgate inner panel.
²Electronic Controls- The rear wiper module
electronic controls include the rear wiper system
electronic logic and rear wiper motor electronic con-
trols. The electronic controls for the motor include an
electronic speed control that speeds the wiper blade
near the center of the glass, but slows the wiper
blade during directional reversals at each end of the
wipe pattern and during wiper blade off-the-glass
parking for quieter operation.
²Motor- The permanent magnet rear wiper
motor is secured with screws to the rear wiper mod-
ule bracket. The wiper motor includes an integral
transmission, and the motor output shaft.
The rear wiper module cannot be adjusted or
repaired. If any component of the module is faulty or
damaged, the entire rear wiper module unit must be
replaced. The motor output shaft gasket, bezel, nut,
and nut cover are available for service replacement.
OPERATION
The rear wiper module receives non-switched bat-
tery current through a fuse in the Junction Block
(JB) and is grounded at all times. The rear wiper
module operation is controlled by the vehicle operator
through battery current signal inputs received by the
rear wiper module electronic controls from the right
multi-function switch on the steering column. The
module also receives an external control input from
the liftgate flip-up glass ajar switch circuit. The rear
wiper module electronic control logic uses these
inputs, its internal inputs, and its programming to
provide continuous wipe, delay wipe, wipe-after-wash
and off-the-glass wiper blade parking. The wiper
blade cycling is controlled by the rear wiper module
electronic controls, which control current flow to the
wiper motor brushes. The wiper motor transmission
converts the rotary output of the wiper motor to the
back and forth wiping motion of the rear wiper arm
and blade on the liftgate glass.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative
cable.
(2) Remove the rear wiper arm from the rear
wiper motor output shaft. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRI-
CAL/REAR WIPERS/WASHERS/REAR WIPER ARM
- REMOVAL).
(3) Use a door trim panel removal tool to gently
pry at the base of the nut cover where it meets the
wiper motor output shaft bezel and gasket on the
outer liftgate panel until it unsnaps from the bezel
(Fig. 13). Be certain to use proper caution to protect
the outer liftgate panel and its paint finish from
damage during this procedure.(4) Remove the nut that secures the rear wiper
motor output shaft to the outer liftgate panel.
(5) Remove the bezel and gasket from the rear
wiper motor output shaft.
(6) Remove the trim panel from the inside of the
liftgate. (Refer to 23 - BODY/DECKLID/HATCH/
LIFTGATE/TAILGATE/TRIM PANEL - REMOVAL).
(7) Disconnect the liftgate wire harness connector
for the rear wiper module from the module connector
receptacle (Fig. 14).
(8) Loosen the two nuts that secure the rear wiper
module mounting bracket to the liftgate inner panel.
(9) Slide the rear wiper module and mounting
bracket forward far enough to disengage the mount-
ing nuts from the keyed holes in the liftgate inner
panel.
(10) Remove the rear wiper module and mounting
bracket from the liftgate as a unit.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the rear wiper module and bracket to
the liftgate as a unit (Fig. 14).
(2) Insert the rear wiper motor output shaft
through the hole in the liftgate outer panel and
engage the mounting nuts in the keyed holes in the
liftgate inner panel.
(3) From the outside of the liftgate, center the rear
wiper motor output shaft in the liftgate outer panel
mounting hole and install the gasket and bezel over
the centered shaft (Fig. 13).
Fig. 13 Rear Wiper Motor Output Shaft Remove/
Install
1 - NUT
2 - NUT COVER
3 - BEZEL AND GASKET
4 - LIFTGATE OUTER PANEL
5 - REAR WIPER MOTOR OUTPUT SHAFT
WJREAR WIPERS/WASHERS 8R - 45
REAR WIPER MODULE (Continued)
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐREAR SEAL AREA
LEAKS
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the
source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the
engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. The
following steps should be followed to help pinpoint
the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal
area:
(1) Disconnect the battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
(3) Remove torque converter or clutch housing
cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil.
Use a black light to check for the oil leak:
(a) Circular spray pattern generally indicates
seal leakage or crankshaft damage.
(b) Where leakage tends to run straight down,
possible causes are a porous block, distributor seal,
camshaft bore cup plugs, oil galley pipe plugs, oil
filter runoff, and main bearing cap to cylinder
block mating surfaces.
(4) If no leaks are detected, pressurized the crank-
case as outlined in (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRICA-
TION - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING)
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
(5) If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the
crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is
detected between the crankshaft and seal while
slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the
crankshaft seal surface is damaged. The seal area on
the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches
that can be polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft
polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks or
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is specially
machined to complement the function of the rear oil
seal.
(6) For bubbles that remain steady with shaft
rotation, no further inspection can be done until dis-
assembled. Refer to the service DiagnosisÐMechani-
cal, under the Oil Leak row, for components
inspections on possible causes and corrections.
(7) After the oil leak root cause and appropriate
corrective action have been identified, (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/CRANKSHAFT OIL
SEAL - REAR - REMOVAL), for proper replacement
procedures.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - FORM-IN-PLACE
GASKETS AND SEALERS
There are numerous places where form-in-place
gaskets are used on the engine. Care must be taken
when applying form-in-place gaskets to assure
obtaining the desired results.Do not use form-in-
place gasket material unless specified.Bead size,
continuity, and location are of great importance. Too
thin a bead can result in leakage while too much can
result in spill-over which can break off and obstruct
fluid feed lines. A continuous bead of the proper
width is essential to obtain a leak-free gasket.
There are numerous types of form-in-place gasket
materials that are used in the engine area. Mopart
Engine RTV GEN II, MopartATF-RTV, and Mopart
Gasket Maker gasket materials, each have different
properties and can not be used in place of the other.
MOPARtENGINE RTV GEN II
MopartEngine RTV GEN II is used to seal com-
ponents exposed to engine oil. This material is a spe-
cially designed black silicone rubber RTV that
retains adhesion and sealing properties when
exposed to engine oil. Moisture in the air causes the
material to cure. This material is available in three
ounce tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one
year this material will not properly cure. Always
inspect the package for the expiration date before
use.
MOPARtATF RTV
MopartATF RTV is a specifically designed black
silicone rubber RTV that retains adhesion and seal-
ing properties to seal components exposed to auto-
matic transmission fluid, engine coolants, and
moisture. This material is available in three ounce
tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one year
this material will not properly cure. Always inspect
the package for the expiration date before use.
MOPARtGASKET MAKER
MopartGasket Maker is an anaerobic type gasket
material. The material cures in the absence of air
when squeezed between two metallic surfaces. It will
not cure if left in the uncovered tube. The anaerobic
material is for use between two machined surfaces.
Do not use on flexible metal flanges.
MOPARtGASKET SEALANT
MopartGasket Sealant is a slow drying, perma-
nently soft sealer. This material is recommended for
sealing threaded fittings and gaskets against leakage
of oil and coolant. Can be used on threaded and
machined parts under all temperatures. This mate-
rial is used on engines with multi-layer steel (MLS)
cylinder head gaskets. This material also will pre-
vent corrosion. MopartGasket Sealant is available in
a 13 oz. aerosol can or 4oz./16 oz. can w/applicator.
WJENGINE - 4.0L 9 - 9
ENGINE - 4.0L (Continued)
(12) Install the push rods, rocker arms, pivots and
bridges in the order they were removed (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/ROCKER ARM /
ADJUSTER ASSY - INSTALLATION).
(13) Install the engine cylinder head cover (Refer
to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER
HEAD COVER(S) - INSTALLATION).
(14) Attach the air conditioner compressor mount-
ing bracket to the engine cylinder head and block.
Tighten the bolts to 40 N´m (30 ft. lbs.) torque.
(15) Attach the air conditioning compressor to the
bracket. Tighten the bolts to 27 N´m (20 ft. lbs.)
torque.
CAUTION: The serpentine drive belt must be routed
correctly. Incorrect routing can cause the water
pump to turn in the opposite direction causing the
engine to overheat.
(16) Install the serpentine drive belt. (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
INSTALLATION).
(17) Install the air cleaner and ducting.
(18) Connect the hoses to the engine thermostat
housing and fill the cooling system to the specified
level (Refer to 7 - COOLING - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE).
(19) The automatic transmission throttle linkage
and cable must be adjusted after completing the
engine cylinder head installation (Refer to 21 -
TRANSMISSION/TRANSAXLE/AUTOMATIC - AW4/
THROTTLE VALVE CABLE - ADJUSTMENTS).
(20) Install the temperature sending unit and con-
nect the wire connector.
(21) If equipped with air conditioning, install A/C
compressor (Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDI-
TIONING/PLUMBING/A/C COMPRESSOR -
INSTALLATION) and charge A/C system (Refer to 24
- HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(22) Connect negative cable to battery.
WARNING: USE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN THE
ENGINE IS OPERATING. DO NOT STAND IN DIRECT
LINE WITH THE FAN. DO NOT PUT HANDS NEAR
THE PULLEYS, BELTS OR FAN. DO NOT WEAR
LOOSE CLOTHING.
(23) Operate the engine with the radiator cap off.
Inspect for leaks and continue operating the engine
until the engine thermostat opens. Add coolant, if
required.CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S)
DESCRIPTION
The cylinder head cover (Fig. 11) is made of
stamped steel and incorporates the Crankcase Venti-
lation (CCV) Hoses and the oil fill opening.
REMOVAL
The cylinder head cover is isolated from the cylin-
der head via grommets and a reusable molded rubber
gasket. The grommet and limiter are retained in the
cylinder head cover.
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Disconnect the Crankcase Ventilation (CCV)
vacuum hose from engine cylinder head cover.
(3) Disconnect the fresh air inlet hose from the
engine cylinder head cover.
(4) Disconnect the accelerator, transmission, and
speed (if equipped) control cables from the throttle
body (Fig. 12).
(5) Remove the three bolts that fasten the control
cable bracket to the intake manifold.
(6) Remove control cables from cylinder head cover
clip.
(7) Position control cables and bracket away from
cylinder head cover secure with tie straps.
(8) Remove the engine cylinder head cover mount-
ing bolts.
(9) Remove the engine cylinder head cover and
gasket.
Fig. 11 Cylinder Head Cover
9 - 22 ENGINE - 4.0LWJ
CYLINDER HEAD (Continued)
CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL -
REAR
REMOVAL
The crankshaft rear main bearing oil seal consists
of two half pieces of viton with a single lip that effec-
tively seals the rear of the crankshaft. Replace the
upper and lower seal halves as a unit to ensure leak-
free operation.
(1) Remove transmission inspection cover.
(2) Remove oil pan. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRI-
CATION/OIL PAN - REMOVAL)
(3) Remove main bearing cap brace.
(4) Remove rear main bearing cap (No.7).
(5) Push upper seal out of the groove. Ensure that
the crankshaft and seal groove are not damaged.
(6) Remove lower half of the seal from the bearing
cap.
INSTALLATION
The crankshaft rear main bearing oil seal consists
of two half pieces of viton with a single lip that effec-
tively seals the rear of the crankshaft. Replace the
upper and lower seal halves as a unit to ensure leak-
free operation.
(1) Wipe the seal surface area of the crankshaft
until it is clean.
(2) Apply a thin coat of engine oil.
(3) Coat lip of the seal with engine oil.
(4) Carefully position the upper seal into the
groove in the cylinder block. The lip of the seal faces
toward the front of the engine.
(5) Apply MopartGasket Maker sealer on both
sides of cylinder block as shown in (Fig. 51). The dab
of sealer should be 3 mm (0.125 in.) in diameter.
(6) Apply MopartGasket Maker on the rear bear-
ing cap (Fig. 51). The bead should be 2.3 mm (0.09
in.) in diameter. DO NOT apply sealer to the lip of
the seal.
(7) Position the lower seal into the bearing cap
recess and seat it firmly. Be sure the seal is flush
with the cylinder block pan rail.
(8) Coat the outer curved surface of the lower seal
with soap and the lip of the seal with engine oil.
(9) Install the rear main bearing cap. DO NOT
strike the cap more than twice for proper engage-
ment.
(10) Tighten all main bearing bolts to 108 N´m (80
ft. lbs.) torque.
(11) Install the main bearing cap brace. Tighten
nuts to 47 N´m (35 ft. lbs.).
(12) Install the oil pan gasket and oil pan (Refer to
9 - ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PAN - INSTALLA-
TION).(13) Apply MopartSilicone Rubber Adhesive Seal-
ant on cylinder block to rear main bearing cap cor-
ners and cylinder block to front cover joints (four
places) (Fig. 52)
(14) Install transmission inspection cover.
Fig. 51 Location of Sealer
1-DOWEL
2-SEALER LOCATIONS
3-CYLINDER BLOCK
4-HALFWAY BETWEEN
5-REAR FACE OF CYLINDER BLOCK
6-3mm (0.125 in.)
Fig. 52 Oil Pan
1 - SEALER LOCATIONS
9 - 42 ENGINE - 4.0LWJ
All Jeep engines are equipped with a high quality
full-flow, throw-away type oil filter. DaimlerChrysler
Corporation recommends a Mopartor equivalent oil
filter be used.
(1) Position a drain pan under the oil filter.
(2) Using a suitable oil filter wrench loosen filter.
(3) Rotate the oil filter counterclockwise to remove
it from the cylinder block oil filter boss or filter
adapter housing (Fig. 75).
(4) When filter separates from adapter nipple, tip
gasket end upward to minimize oil spill. Remove fil-
ter from vehicle.
(5) Make sure old gasket comes off with oil filter.
With a wiping cloth, clean the gasket sealing surface
(Fig. 76) of oil and grime.
INSTALLATION
(1) Lightly lubricate oil filter gasket with engine
oil or chassis grease.
(2) Thread filter onto adapter nipple. When gasket
makes contact with sealing surface, (Fig. 76) hand
tighten filter one full turn, do not over tighten.
(3) Add oil, verify crankcase oil level and start
engine. Inspect for oil leaks.
OIL PAN
DESCRIPTION
The oil pan is made of stamped steel. The oil pan
gasket is a one piece steel backbone silicone coated
gasket (Fig. 77).
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
(3) Remove the oil pan drain plug and drain the
engine oil.
(4) Disconnect the exhaust pipe at the exhaust
manifold.
(5) Disconnect the exhaust hanger at the catalytic
converter and lower the pipe.
(6) Remove the starter motor. (Refer to 8 - ELEC-
TRICAL/STARTING/STARTER MOTOR - REMOV-
AL).
(7) Remove the engine flywheel and transmission
torque converter housing access cover.
(8) If equipped with an oil level sensor, disconnect
the sensor.
(9) Position a jack stand directly under the engine
vibration damper.
Fig. 75 Oil FilterÐ4.0L Engine
1 - CYLINDER BLOCK
2 - ADAPTER
3 - OIL FILTER
Fig. 76 Oil Filter Sealing SurfaceÐTypical
1 - SEALING SURFACE
2 - RUBBER GASKET
3 - OIL FILTER
Fig. 77 Oil Pan
1 - OIL PAN
2 - OIL PAN DRAIN PLUG
9 - 54 ENGINE - 4.0LWJ
OIL FILTER (Continued)
(10) Place a piece of wood (2 x 2) between the jack
stand and the engine vibration damper.
(11) Remove the engine mount through bolts.
(12) Using the jack stand, raise the engine until
adequate clearance is obtained to remove the oil pan.
(13) Remove transmission oil cooling lines (if
equipped) and oxygen sensor wiring supports that
are attached to the oil pan studs.
(14) Remove the oil pan bolts and studs. Carefully
slide the oil pan and gasket to the rear. If equipped
with an oil level sensor, take care not to damage the
sensor.
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean the block and pan gasket surfaces.
(2) Fabricate 4 alignment dowels from 1 1/2 x 1/4
inch bolts. Cut the head off the bolts and cut a slot
into the top of the dowel. This will allow easier
installation and removal with a screwdriver (Fig. 78).
(3) Install two dowels in the timing case cover.
Install the other two dowels in the cylinder block
(Fig. 79).
(4) Apply MopartSilicone Rubber Adhesive Seal-
ant on cylinder block to rear main bearing cap cor-
ners and cylinder block to front cover joints (four
places) (Fig. 80).
(5) Slide the one-piece gasket over the dowels and
onto the block and timing case cover.
(6) Position the oil pan over the dowels and onto
the gasket. If equipped with an oil level sensor, take
care not to damage the sensor.
(7) Install the 1/4 inch oil pan bolts. Tighten these
bolts to 9.5 N´m (84 in. lbs.) torque. Install the 5/16
inch oil pan bolts (Fig. 81). Tighten these bolts to 15
N´m (132 in. lbs.) torque.
(8) Remove the dowels. Install the remaining 1/4
inch oil pan bolts. Tighten these bolts to 9.5 N´m (84
in. lbs.) torque.
Fig. 78 Fabrication of Alignment Dowels
1 - 1/488ý 1 1/288BOLT
2 - DOWEL
3 - SLOT
Fig. 79 Position of Dowels in Cylinder Block
1 - DOWEL HOLES
2 - CYLINDER BLOCK
3 - 5/1688HOLES
4 - 5/1688HOLES
Fig. 80 Oil Pan Sealer Location
1 - SEALER LOCATIONS
Fig. 81 Position of 5/16 inch Oil Pan Bolts
1 - OIL PAN
2 - OIL PAN DRAIN PLUG
WJENGINE - 4.0L 9 - 55
OIL PAN (Continued)
(9) Lower the engine until it is properly located on
the engine mounts.
(10) Install the through bolts and tighten the nuts.
(11) Lower the jack stand and remove the piece of
wood.
(12) Install the engine flywheel and transmission
torque converter housing access cover.
(13) Install the engine starter motor. (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/STARTING/STARTER MOTOR -
INSTALLATION).
(14) Connect the exhaust pipe to the hanger and to
the engine exhaust manifold.
(15) Install transmission oil cooling lines (if
equipped) and oxygen sensor wiring supports that
attach to the oil pan studs.
(16) Install the oil pan drain plug (Fig. 81).
Tighten the plug to 34 N´m (25 ft. lbs.) torque.
(17) Lower the vehicle.
(18) Connect negative cable to battery.
(19) Fill the oil pan with engine oil to the specified
level.
WARNING: USE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN THE
ENGINE IS OPERATING. DO NOT STAND IN A
DIRECT LINE WITH THE FAN. DO NOT PUT YOUR
HANDS NEAR THE PULLEYS, BELTS OR FAN. DO
NOT WEAR LOOSE CLOTHING.
(20) Start the engine and inspect for leaks.
ENGINE OIL PRESSURE
SENSOR
DESCRIPTION
The 3±wire, solid-state engine oil pressure sensor
(sending unit) is located in an engine oil pressure
gallery.
OPERATION
The oil pressure sensor uses three circuits. They
are:
²A 5±volt power supply from the Powertrain Con-
trol Module (PCM)
²A sensor ground through the PCM's sensor
return
²A signal to the PCM relating to engine oil pres-
sure
The oil pressure sensor has a 3±wire electrical
function very much like the Manifold Absolute Pres-
sure (MAP) sensor. Meaning different pressures
relate to different output voltages.
A 5±volt supply is sent to the sensor from the PCM
to power up the sensor. The sensor returns a voltage
signal back to the PCM relating to engine oil pres-
sure. This signal is then transferred (bussed) to theinstrument panel on either a CCD or PCI bus circuit
(depending on vehicle line) to operate the oil pressure
gauge and the check gauges lamp. Ground for the
sensor is provided by the PCM through a low-noise
sensor return.
OIL PUMP
REMOVAL
A gear-type oil pump is mounted at the underside
of the cylinder block opposite the No.4 main bearing.
(1) Drain the engine oil.
(2) Remove the oil pan (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL PAN - REMOVAL).
(3) Remove the pump-to-cylinder block attaching
bolts. Remove the pump assembly with gasket (Fig.
82).
CAUTION: If the oil pump is not to be serviced, DO
NOT disturb position of oil inlet tube and strainer
assembly in pump body. If the tube is moved within
the pump body, a replacement tube and strainer
assembly must be installed to assure an airtight
seal.
Fig. 82 Oil Pump Assembly
1 - OIL FILTER ADAPTOR
2 - BLOCK
3 - GASKET
4 - OIL INLET TUBE
5 - OIL PUMP
6 - STRAINER ASSEMBLY
7 - ATTACHING BOLTS
9 - 56 ENGINE - 4.0LWJ
OIL PAN (Continued)