2002 GMC YUKON engine

4-64 Trailer Brakes
If your trailer weighs more than 2,000 lbs. (900 kg)
loaded, then it needs its own brakes
-- and they must be
adequate. Be sure to read and follow the instructions for
the trailer brakes so you'll be able to install, adjust and
maintain them properly.
Your trailer brake system can tap into the vehicle's
hydraulic brake system only if:

The trailer parts can withstand 3,000 psi
(20 650 kPa) of pressure.

The trailer's brake system will use less than
0.02 cubic inches (0.3 cc) of fluid from your
vehicle's master cylinder. Otherwise, both braking
systems won't work well. You could even lose
your brakes.
If everything checks out this far, make the brake tap
at the port on the master cylinder that sends the fluid to
the rear brakes. But don't use copper tubing for this. If
you do, it will bend and finally break off. Use steel
brake tubing.
Driving with a Trailer
CAUTION:
If you have a rear-most window open and you
pull a trailer with your vehicle, carbon monoxide
(CO) could come into your vehicle. You can't see
or smell CO. It can cause unconsciousness or
death. See ªEngine Exhaustº in the Index. To
maximize your safety when towing a trailer:

Have your exhaust system inspected for
leaks, and make necessary repairs before
starting on your trip.

Keep the rear
-most windows closed.

If exhaust does come into your vehicle
through a window in the rear or another
opening, drive with your front, main
heating or cooling system on and with the
fan on any speed. This will bring fresh,
outside air into your vehicle. Do not use
MAX A/C because it only recirculates the
air inside your vehicle. See ªComfort
Controlsº in the Index.

4-67
You may also want to activate the tow/haul mode if the
transmission shifts too often. See ªTow/Haul Modeº in
the Index.
When towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades,
consider the following: Engine coolant will boil at a
lower temperature than at normal altitudes. If you turn
your engine off immediately after towing at high altitude
on steep uphill grades, your vehicle may show signs
similar to engine overheating. To avoid this, let the
engine run while parked (preferably on level ground)
with the automatic transmission in PARK (P) for a
few minutes before turning the engine off. If you do
get the overheat warning, see ªEngine Overheatingº
in the Index.Parking on Hills
CAUTION:
You really should not park your vehicle, with a
trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes
wrong, your rig could start to move. People can
be injured, and both your vehicle and the trailer
can be damaged.
But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here's
how to do it:
1. Apply your regular brake, but don't shift into
PARK (P) yet.
2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer wheels.
3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the
regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.
4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your parking
brake and shift into PARK (P).

4-68
5. If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle, be sure the
transfer case is in a drive gear and not in NEUTRAL.
6. Release the regular brakes.
CAUTION:
It can be dangerous to get out of your vehicle if
the shift lever is not fully in PARK (P) with the
parking brake firmly set. Your vehicle can roll.
If you have left the engine running, the vehicle
can move suddenly. You or others could be
injured. To be sure your vehicle won't move, even
when you're on fairly level ground, use the steps
that follow.
Always put the shift lever fully in PARK (P) with
the parking brake firmly set.
If the transfer case on four-wheel drive vehicles
is in NEUTRAL, your vehicle will be free to roll,
even if your shift lever is in PARK (P). So, be
sure the transfer case is in a drive gear
-- not
in NEUTRAL.
When You Are Ready to Leave After
Parking on a Hill
1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down
while you:

start your engine,

shift into a gear, and

release the parking brake.
2. Let up on the brake pedal.
3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks.
4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the chocks.

4-69 Maintenance When Trailer Towing
Your vehicle will need service more often when you're
pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more
on this. Things that are especially important in trailer
operation are automatic transmission fluid (don't
overfill), engine oil, axle lubricant, belt, cooling system
and brake system. Each of these is covered in this
manual, and the Index will help you find them quickly.
If you're trailering, it's a good idea to review these
sections before you start your trip.
Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts
are tight.
Trailer Wiring Harness
Your vehicle is equipped with the following wiring
harnesses for towing a trailer.Basic Trailer Wiring Package
The trailer wiring harness, with a seven-pin connector,
is located at the rear of the vehicle and is tied to the
vehicle's frame. The harness connector can be plugged
into a seven
-pin universal heavy-duty trailer connector
available through your dealer.

5-4
2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables
can reach, but be sure the vehicles aren't touching
each other. If they are, it could cause a ground
connection you don't want. You wouldn't be able
to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could
damage the electrical systems.
To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set
the parking brake firmly on both vehicles involved in
the jump start procedure. Put the automatic
transmission in PARK (P), or a manual transmission
in NEUTRAL (N) before setting the parking brake.
If you have a four
-wheel-drive vehicle, be sure the
transfer case is in a drive gear not in NEUTRAL.
NOTICE:
If you leave your radio on, it could be badly
damaged. The repairs wouldn't be covered by
your warranty.
3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug
unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette
lighter or in the accessory power outlets. Turn off the
radio and all the lamps that aren't needed. This will
avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it
could save your radio!
4. Open the hoods and locate the positive (+) and
negative (
-) terminal locations of the other vehicle.
Your vehicle has a remote positive (+) jump starting
terminal and a remote negative (
-) jump starting
terminal. You should always use these remote
terminals instead of the terminals on the battery.
The remote positive (+) terminal is located behind
a red plastic cover near the engine accessory drive
bracket. To uncover the remote positive (+) terminal,
open the red plastic cover.
The remote negative (
-) terminal is located on
the engine drive bracket on all V8 diesel engines.
On V8 engines it is marked ªGND.º
On V6 engines the remote negative (
-) terminal is
located on a tab attached to the engine accessory
drive bracket where it is marked ªGND.º
See ªEngine Compartment Overviewº in the Index
for more information on location.

5-5
CAUTION:
Using a match near a battery can cause battery
gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this,
and some have been blinded. Use a flashlight if
you need more light.
Be sure the batteries have enough water. You
don't need to add water to the ACDelco
battery
(or batteries) installed in every new GM vehicle.
But if a battery has filler caps, be sure the right
amount of fluid is there. If it is low, add water to
take care of that first. If you don't, explosive gas
could be present.
Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you.
Don't get it on you. If you accidentally get it in
your eyes or on your skin, flush the place with
water and get medical help immediately.
CAUTION:
Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you
badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts
once the engine is running.
5. Check that the jumper cables don't have loose or
missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock.
The vehicles could be damaged too.
Before you connect the cables, here are some basic
things you should know. Positive (+) will go to
positive (+) or a remote positive (+) terminal if the
vehicle has one. Negative (
-) will go to a heavy,
unpainted metal engine part or a remote negative (
-)
terminal if the vehicle has one.
Don't connect positive (+) to negative (
-) or you'll
get a short that would damage the battery and maybe
other parts too. And don't connect the negative (
-)
cable to the negative (
-) terminal on the dead battery
because this can cause sparks.

5-7
9. Connect the other end of
the negative (
-) cable to
the negative (
-) terminal
of the dead battery or to
a remote negative (
-)
terminal if the vehicle
has one.
10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run
the engine for a while.
11. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead battery.
If it won't start after a few tries, it probably
needs service.
NOTICE:
Damage to your vehicle may result from
electrical shorting if jumper cables are removed
incorrectly. To prevent electrical shorting take
care that they don't touch each other or any
other metal. The repairs wouldn't be covered by
your warranty.

5-8
Jumper Cable Removal
A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part or Remote
Negative Terminal
B. Good Battery or Remote Positive (+) and Remote
Negative (
-) Terminals
C. Dead Battery or Remote Positive (+) TerminalTo disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles do
the following:
1. Disconnect the black negative (
-) cable from the
vehicle that had the bad battery.
2. Disconnect the black negative (
-) cable from vehicle
with the good battery.
3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the
vehicle with the good battery.
4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the
other vehicle.
5. Return the positive (+) remote terminal cover to its
original position.