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4-53 Driving On Grades
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start
down a long or steep downgrade. If you don't shift
down, you might have to use your brakes so much that
they would get hot and no longer work well.
You can tow in DRIVE (D). You may want to shift the
transmission to THIRD (3) or, if necessary, a lower gear
selection if the transmission shifts too often (e.g., under
heavy loads and/or hilly conditions).
You may also want to activate the tow/haul mode if the
transmission shifts too often. See ªTow/Haul Modeº in
the Index.
When towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades,
consider the following: Engine coolant will boil at a
lower temperature than at normal altitudes. If you turn
your engine off immediately after towing at high altitude
on steep uphill grades, your vehicle may show signs
similar to engine overheating. To avoid this, let the
engine run while parked (preferably on level ground)
with the automatic transmission in PARK (P) for a
few minutes before turning the engine off. If you do
get the overheat warning, see ªEngine Overheatingº
in the Index.
Parking on Hills
CAUTION:
You really should not park your vehicle, with a
trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes
wrong, your rig could start to move. People can
be injured, and both your vehicle and the trailer
can be damaged.
But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here's
how to do it:
1. Apply your regular brakes, but don't shift into
PARK (P) yet.
2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer wheels.
3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the
regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.
4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your parking
brake and shift into PARK (P).
5. Release the regular brakes.
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4-54 When You Are Ready to Leave After
Parking on a Hill
1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down
while you:
start your engine,
shift into a gear, and
release the parking brake.
2. Let up on the brake pedal.
3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks.
4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the chocks.
Maintenance When Trailer Towing
Your vehicle will need service more often when you're
pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more
on this. Things that are especially important in trailer
operation are automatic transmission fluid (don't
overfill), engine oil, axle lubricant, belt, cooling system
and brake system. Each of these is covered in this
manual, and the Index will help you find them quickly.
If you're trailering, it's a good idea to review these
sections before you start your trip.
Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts
are tight.
Trailer Wiring Harness
Heavy-Duty Trailer Wiring Package
Your vehicle is equipped with the seven-wire trailer
towing harness. This harness with a seven
-pin universal
heavy
-duty trailer connector is attached to a bracket on
the platform hitch.
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4-55
The seven-wire harness contains the following
trailer circuits:
Yellow: Left Stop/Turn Signal
Dark Green: Right Stop/Turn Signal
Brown: Taillamps
White: Ground
Light Green: Back
-up Lamps
Red: Battery Feed
Dark Blue: Trailer Brake
A jumper harness for an electric trailer brake controller
and a trailer battery feed fuse are included with this
trailering package. (See ªInstrument Panel Jumper
Wiring Harnessº later in this section.)
If you need to tow a light
-duty trailer with a standard
four
-way round pin connector, an adapter connector is
included with the vehicle. See ªFour
-Wire Trailer
Harness Adapterº later in this section.Instrument Panel Jumper Wiring Harness
This harness is included with the heavy-duty and
camper/fifth
-wheel trailer wiring packages. The harness
is for an electric trailer brake controller and includes a
trailer battery feed fuse. This harness and fuse should be
installed by your dealer or a qualified service center.
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5-4
2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables
can reach, but be sure the vehicles aren't touching
each other. If they are, it could cause a ground
connection you don't want. You wouldn't be able to
start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could
damage the electrical systems.
To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set
the parking brake firmly on both vehicles involved
in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic
transmission in PARK (P) or a manual transmission
in NEUTRAL before setting the parking brake.
NOTICE:
If you leave your radio on, it could be badly
damaged. The repairs wouldn't be covered by
your warranty.
3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug
unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette
lighter or accessory power outlets. Turn off the radio
and all lamps that aren't needed. This will avoid
sparks and help save both batteries. And it could
save your radio!
4. Open the hoods and locate the positive (+) and
negative (
-) terminal locations of the other vehicle.
Your vehicle has a remote positive (+) jump starting
terminal and a remote negative (
-) jump starting
terminal. You should always use these remote
terminals instead of the terminals on the battery.
The remote positive (+) terminal is located under a
red plastic cover near the engine accessory drive
bracket. To access the remote positive (+) terminal,
open the red plastic cover.
The remote negative (
-) terminal is located on
the engine accessory drive bracket and is
marked ªGNDº.
See ªEngine Compartment Overviewº in the Index
for more information on location.
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5-19
Engine Fan Noise
Your vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When
the clutch is engaged, the fan spins faster to provide
more air to cool the engine. In most everyday driving
conditions, the fan is spinning slower and the clutch is
not fully engaged. This improves fuel economy and
reduces fan noise. Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer
towing and/or high outside temperatures, the fan speed
increases as the clutch more fully engages. So you may
hear an increase in fan noise. This is normal and should
not be mistaken as the transmission slipping or making
extra shifts. It is merely the cooling system functioning
properly. The fan will slow down when additional
cooling is not required and the clutch disengages.
You may also hear this fan noise when you start
the engine. It will go away as the fan clutch
partially disengages.
If a Tire Goes Flat
It's unusual for a tire to ªblow outº while you're driving,
especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes
out of a tire, it's much more likely to leak out slowly.
But if you should ever have a ªblowout,º here are a few
tips about what to expect and what to do:
If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that
pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the
accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly.
Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to
a stop well out of the traffic lane.
A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a
skid and may require the same correction you'd use in a
skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from the
accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by
steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be
very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently
brake to a stop
-- well off the road if possible.
If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use your
jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely.
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5-20
Changing a Flat Tire
If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage
by driving slowly to a level place. Turn on your hazard
warning flashers.
CAUTION:
Changing a tire can cause an injury. The vehicle
can slip off the jack and roll over you or other
people. You and they could be badly injured.
Find a level place to change your tire. To help
prevent the vehicle from moving:
1. Set the parking brake firmly.
2. Put the shift lever in PARK (P).
3. Turn off the engine.
4. Put the wheel blocks at the front and
rear of the tire farthest away from the
one being changed. That would be the
tire on the other side of the vehicle, at
the opposite end.The following steps will tell you how to use the jack and
change a tire.
Page 290 of 407
5-31
7. Tighten the nuts
firmly in a crisscross
sequence as shown
by turning the wheel
wrench clockwise.
CAUTION:
Incorrect wheel nuts or improperly tightened
wheel nuts can cause the wheel to become loose
and even come off. This could lead to an accident.
Be sure to use the correct wheel nuts. If you have
to replace them, be sure to get new GM original
equipment wheel nuts.
Stop somewhere as soon as you can and have the
nuts tightened with a torque wrench to the
proper torque. See ªCapacities and
Specificationsº in the Index.
NOTICE:
Improperly tightened wheel nuts can lead to
brake pulsation and rotor damage. To avoid
expensive brake repairs, evenly tighten the wheel
nuts in the proper sequence and to the proper
torque specification.
When you reinstall the regular wheel and tire, you must
also reinstall the center cap. Place the cap on the wheel
and tap it into place until it seats flush with the wheel.
Page 299 of 407

6-
6-1
Section 6 Service and Appearance Care
Here you will find information about the care of your vehicle. This section begins with service and fuel information,
and then it shows how to check important fluid and lubricant levels. There is also technical information about your
vehicle, and a part devoted to its appearance care.
6
-2 Service
6
-3 Fuel
6
-5 Fuels in Foreign Countries
6
-6 Filling Your Tank
6
-8 Filling a Portable Fuel Container
6
-8 Checking Things Under the Hood
6
-11 Engine Oil
6
-17 Engine Air Cleaner/Filter
6
-19 Passenger Compartment Air Filter
6
-20 Automatic Transmission Fluid
6
-23 Rear Axle
6
-24 All-Wheel Drive
6
-26 Engine Coolant
6
-29 Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap
6
-30 Power Steering Fluid6
-31 Windshield Washer Fluid
6
-32 Brakes
6
-36 Battery
6
-37 Bulb Replacement
6
-41 Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement
6
-42 Tires
6
-51 Appearance Care
6
-51 Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle
6
-55 Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle
6
-59 GM Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials
6
-60 Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)
6
-61 Electrical System
6
-69 Replacement Bulbs
6
-70 Capacities and Specifications
6
-71 Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts