2002 DODGE RAM boot

(3) Transfer slave cylinder, release fork and boot,
fork pivot stud and wire/hose brackets to new hous-
ing.
(4) Lubricate release fork and pivot contact sur-
faces with Mopar High Temperature wheel bearing
grease or equivalent before installation.
(5) Align and install clutch housing on transmis-
sion (Fig. 19). Tighten housing bolts closest to align-
ment dowels first and to the following torque values:
²1/4in. diameter ªAº bolts - 4.5 N´m (40 in.lb.).
²3/8in. diameter ªAº bolts - 47.5 N´m (35 ft.lb.).
²7/16in. diameter ªAº bolts - 68 N´m (50 ft.lb.).
²ªBº bolts for 5.2L/5.9L applications - 41 N´m (30
ft.lb.).
²ªBº bolts for 5.9L TD/8.0L applications - 47.5
N´m (35 ft.lb.).
²ªCº bolts for 5.2/5.9L applications - 68 N´m (50
ft.lb.).
²ªCº bolts for 5.9L TD applications - 47.5 N´m (35
ft.lb.).
²ªCº bolts for 8.0L applications - 74.5 N´m (55
ft.lb.).
(6) Install transmission-to-engine strut after
installing clutch housing. Tighten bolt attaching
strut to clutch housing first and engine bolt last.
(7) Install the starter to the clutch housing.
(8) Install the clutch housing dust shield to the
clutch housing. Tighten the bolts to
(9) Install transmission and transfer case, if
equipped. Refer to 21Transmission and Transfer Case
for proper procedures.
CLUTCH RELEASE BEARING
REMOVAL
(1) Remove transmission and transfer case, if
equipped. Refer to 21 Transmission and Transfer
Case forprocedures.
(2) Remove clutch housing, for NV4500 equipped
vehicles.
(3) Disconnect release bearing from release fork
and remove bearing (Fig. 20).
INSTALLATION
NOTE: Inspect bearing slide surface on transmis-
sion front bearing retainer. Replace retainer if slide
surface is scored, worn or cracked. Inspect release
lever and pivot stud. Be sure stud is secure and in
good condition. Be sure fork is not distorted or
worn. Replace fork spring clips if bent or damaged.
(1) Lubricate input shaft splines, bearing retainer
slide surface, lever pivot ball stud and release lever
pivot surface with Mopar high temperature bearing
grease or equilvalent.
Fig. 18 Transmission/Clutch Housing - NV4500
1 - CLUTCH HOUSING
2 - TRANSMISSION
Fig. 19 Clutch Housing Installation - NV4500
1 - ENGINE BLOCK
2 - CLUTCH DISC AND COVER
3 - CLUTCH HOUSING
4 - DUST COVER
6 - 12 CLUTCHBR/BE
CLUTCH HOUSING (Continued)

to solenoid battery terminal stud. Do not let starter
motor hang from wire harness.
(8) Remove battery positive cable wire harness
connector eyelet from solenoid battery terminal stud.
(9) Disconnect battery positive cable wire harness
connector from solenoid terminal connector recepta-
cle.
(10) Remove starter motor.
5.9L DIESEL ENGINE
(1) Disconnect and isolate negative cables of both
batteries.
(2) Raise and support vehicle.
(3) Pull back protective rubber boot from solenoid
battery terminal far enough to access and remove
nut securing battery positive cable wire harness con-
nector eyelet to solenoid battery terminal stud (Fig.
10).
(4) Remove nut securing battery positive cable
wire harness solenoid connector eyelet to solenoid
terminal stud.
(5) Remove battery positive cable wire harness
connector eyelets from solenoid terminal studs.(6) While supporting starter motor, remove three
bolts securing starter motor to flywheel housing (Fig.
10) and (Fig. 11).
(7) Remove starter motor from engine (certain die-
sel engines have an aluminum spacer mounted
between the starter and the starter mounting flange.
Note position and orientation of spacer before remov-
al).
8.0L GASOLINE ENGINE
(1) Disconnect and isolate negative battery cable.
(2) Raise and support vehicle.
(3) Remove nut securing battery positive cable
wire harness connector eyelet to solenoid battery ter-
minal stud (Fig. 12).
(4) Remove battery positive cable connector eyelet
from solenoid battery terminal stud.
(5) Disconnect battery positive cable wire harness
connector from solenoid terminal connector recepta-
cle.
Fig. 9 Starter Motor Remove/Install - 5.9L Gasoline
Engine
1 - ENGINE
2 - STARTER MOUNTING FLANGE
3 - STUD
4 - STARTER MOTOR
5 - LOCK WASHER
6 - NUT
7 - BRACKET
8 - BOLT
9 - POSITIVE BATTERY CABLE WIRE HARNESS
10 - POSITIVE BATTERY CABLE WIRE HARNESS NUT
Fig. 10 Starter Motor Wire Harness Remove/Install -
5.9L Diesel Engine
1 - SOLENOID WIRE
2 - MOUNTING BOLTS (3)
3 - BATTERY TERMINAL
BR/BESTARTING 8F - 39
STARTER MOTOR (Continued)

(6) Support starter motor and remove two bolts
securing starter motor to engine.
(7) Remove starter motor from engine.
INSTALLATION
5.9L GASOLINE ENGINE
(1) Connect wiring harness to starter motor and
tighten eyelet nut to 25 N´m (221 in. lbs.). Do not
allow starter motor to hang from wire harness.
(2) Position starter motor to starter mounting
flange.
(3) If equipped with automatic transmission, slide
cooler tube bracket into position.
(4) Loosely install upper bolt.
(5) Position lock washer and loosely install lower
nut.
(6) Tighten upper bolt to 67.8 N´m (50 ft. lbs.).
(7) Tighten lower nut to 67.8 N´m (50 ft. lbs.).
(8) Lower vehicle.
(9) Connect battery cable.
5.9L DIESEL ENGINE
(1) If equipped, position aluminum spacer to rear
of starter.
(2) Position starter motor to engine.
(3) Support starter and loosely install three
mounting bolts.
(4) Tighten 3 bolts to 43.4 N´m (32 ft. lbs.).
(5) Position wiring eyelets to starter studs and
install nuts. Tighten small nut to 6.2 N´m (55 in.
lbs.). Tighten large nut to 13.6 N´m (120 in. lbs.).
(6) Install protective rubber boot over stud.
(7) Lower vehicle.
(8) Connect battery cables to both batteries.
8.0L GASOLINE ENGINE
(1) Support starter motor and loosely install two
bolts securing starter motor to engine.
(2) Tighten 2 bolts to 67.8 N´m (50 ft. lbs.).
(3) Connect solenoid wire to solenoid terminal.
(4) Position battery cable eyelet to starter stud.
Install nut and tighten to 13.6 N´m (120 in. lbs.).
(5) Lower vehicle.
(6) Connect battery cable.
Fig. 11 Starter Motor Remove/Install - 5.9L Diesel
Engine
1 - MOUNTING BOLT
Fig. 12 Starter Motor Remove/Install - 8.0L Gasoline
Engine
1 - ENGINE
2 - BATTERY POSITIVE CABLE WIRE HARNESS
3 - NUT
4 - STARTER MOTOR
5 - SCREW AND WASHER (2)
8F - 40 STARTINGBR/BE
STARTER MOTOR (Continued)

SPARK PLUG OVERHEATING
Overheating is indicated by a white or gray center
electrode insulator that also appears blistered (Fig.
34). The increase in electrode gap will be consider-
ably in excess of 0.001 inch per 2000 miles of opera-
tion. This suggests that a plug with a cooler heat
range rating should be used. Over advanced ignition
timing, detonation and cooling system malfunctions
can also cause spark plug overheating.
REMOVAL
On 5.9L engines, spark plug cable heat shields are
pressed into the cylinder head to surround each cable
boot and spark plug (Fig. 35).
(1) Always remove spark plug or ignition coil
cables by grasping at the cable boot (Fig. 37). Turn
the cable boot 1/2 turn and pull straight back in a
steady motion. Never pull directly on the cable.
Internal damage to cable will result.
Fig. 32 Chipped Electrode Insulator
1 - GROUND ELECTRODE
2 - CENTER ELECTRODE
3 - CHIPPED INSULATOR
Fig. 33 Preignition Damage
1 - GROUND ELECTRODE STARTING TO DISSOLVE
2 - CENTER ELECTRODE DISSOLVED
Fig. 34 Spark Plug Overheating
1 - BLISTERED WHITE OR GRAY COLORED INSULATOR
Fig. 35 Heat ShieldsÐ5.9L Engines
1 - AIR GAP
2 - SPARK PLUG BOOT HEAT SHIELD
BR/BEIGNITION CONTROL 8I - 19
SPARK PLUG (Continued)

(2) Prior to removing the spark plug, spray com-
pressed air around the spark plug hole and the area
around the spark plug. This will help prevent foreign
material from entering the combustion chamber.
(3) Remove the spark plug using a quality socket
with a rubber or foam insert.
(4) Inspect the spark plug condition. Refer to
Spark Plug Condition in the Diagnostics and Testing
section of this group.
CLEANING
The plugs may be cleaned using commercially
available spark plug cleaning equipment. After clean-
ing, file center electrode flat with a small point file or
jewelers file before adjusting gap.
CAUTION: Never use a motorized wire wheel brush
to clean spark plugs. Metallic deposits will remain
on spark plug insulator and will cause plug misfire.
INSTALLATION
Special care should be taken when installing spark
plugs into the cylinder head spark plug wells. Be
sure the plugs do not drop into the plug wells as elec-
trodes can be damaged.
Always tighten spark plugs to the specified torque.
Over tightening can cause distortion resulting in a
change in the spark plug gap or a cracked porcelain
insulator.
When replacing the spark plug and ignition coil
cables, route the cables correctly and secure them in
the appropriate retainers. Failure to route the cables
properly can cause the radio to reproduce ignition
noise. It could cause cross ignition of the spark plugs
or short circuit the cables to ground.
(1) Start the spark plug into the cylinder head by
hand to avoid cross threading.
(2) Tighten spark plugs to 35-41 N´m (26-30 ft.
lbs.) torque.
(3) Install spark plug cables over spark plugs.
SPARK PLUG CABLE
DESCRIPTION
Spark plug cables are sometimes referred to as sec-
ondary ignition wires.
OPERATION
The spark plug cables transfer electrical current
from the ignition coil(s) and/or distributor, to individ-
ual spark plugs at each cylinder. The resistive spark
plug cables are of nonmetallic construction. The
cables provide suppression of radio frequency emis-
sions from the ignition system.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - SPARK PLUG
CABLES
Cable routing is important on certain engines. To
prevent possible ignition crossfire, be sure the cables
are clipped into the plastic routing looms. Try to pre-
vent any one cable from contacting another. Before
removing cables, note their original location and
routing. Never allow one cable to be twisted around
another.
Check the spark plug cable connections for good
contact at the coil(s), distributor cap towers, and
spark plugs. Terminals should be fully seated. The
insulators should be in good condition and should fit
tightly on the coil, distributor and spark plugs. Spark
plug cables with insulators that are cracked or torn
must be replaced.
Clean high voltage ignition cables with a cloth
moistened with a non-flammable solvent. Wipe the
cables dry. Check for brittle or cracked insulation.
On 5.9L engines, spark plug cable heat shields are
pressed into the cylinder head to surround each
spark plug cable boot and spark plug (Fig. 36). These
shields protect the spark plug boots from damage
(due to intense engine heat generated by the exhaust
manifolds) and should not be removed. After the
spark plug cable has been installed, the lip of the
cable boot should have a small air gap to the top of
the heat shield (Fig. 36).
TESTING
When testing secondary cables for damage with an
oscilloscope, follow the instructions of the equipment
manufacturer.
If an oscilloscope is not available, spark plug cables
may be tested as follows:
Fig. 36 Heat ShieldsÐ5.9L Engines
1 - AIR GAP
2 - SPARK PLUG BOOT HEAT SHIELD
8I - 20 IGNITION CONTROLBR/BE
SPARK PLUG (Continued)

CAUTION: Do not leave any one spark plug cable
disconnected for longer than necessary during test-
ing. This may cause possible heat damage to the
catalytic converter. Total test time must not exceed
ten minutes.
With the engine running, remove spark plug cable
from spark plug (one at a time) and hold next to a
good engine ground. If the cable and spark plug are
in good condition, the engine rpm should drop and
the engine will run poorly. If engine rpm does not
drop, the cable and/or spark plug may not be operat-
ing properly and should be replaced. Also check
engine cylinder compression.
With the engine not running, connect one end of a
test probe to a good ground. Start the engine and run
the other end of the test probe along the entire
length of all spark plug cables. If cables are cracked
or punctured, there will be a noticeable spark jump
from the damaged area to the test probe. The cable
running from the ignition coil to the distributor cap
can be checked in the same manner. Cracked, dam-
aged or faulty cables should be replaced with resis-
tance type cable. This can be identified by the words
ELECTRONIC SUPPRESSION printed on the cable
jacket.
Use an ohmmeter to test for open circuits, exces-
sive resistance or loose terminals. If equipped,
remove the distributor cap from the distributor.Do
not remove cables from cap.Remove cable from
spark plug. Connect ohmmeter to spark plug termi-
nal end of cable and to corresponding electrode in
distributor cap. Resistance should be 250 to 1000
Ohms per inch of cable. If not, remove cable from dis-
tributor cap tower and connect ohmmeter to the ter-
minal ends of cable. If resistance is not within
specifications as found in the SPARK PLUG CABLE
RESISTANCE chart, replace the cable. Test all spark
plug cables in this manner.
SPARK PLUG CABLE RESISTANCE
MINIMUM MAXIMUM
250 Ohms Per Inch 1000 Ohms Per Inch
3000 Ohms Per Foot 12,000 Ohms Per Foot
To test ignition coil-to-distributor cap cable, do not
remove the cable from the cap. Connect ohmmeter to
rotor button (center contact) of distributor cap and
terminal at ignition coil end of cable. If resistance is
not within specifications as found in the Spark Plug
Cable Resistance chart, remove the cable from the
distributor cap. Connect the ohmmeter to the termi-
nal ends of the cable. If resistance is not within spec-
ifications as found in the Spark Plug CableResistance chart, replace the cable. Inspect the igni-
tion coil tower for cracks, burns or corrosion.
REMOVAL
CAUTION: When disconnecting a high voltage cable
from a spark plug or from the distributor cap, twist
the rubber boot slightly (1/2 turn) to break it loose
(Fig. 37). Grasp the boot (not the cable) and pull it
off with a steady, even force.
INSTALLATION
Install cables into the proper engine cylinder firing
order (Fig. 38) or (Fig. 39).
Fig. 37 Cable Removal
1 - SPARK PLUG CABLE AND BOOT
2 - SPARK PLUG BOOT PULLER
3 - TWIST AND PULL
4 - SPARK PLUG
Fig. 38 Engine Firing OrderÐ5.9L V-8 Engines
BR/BEIGNITION CONTROL 8I - 21
SPARK PLUG CABLE (Continued)

engine with the number up. For the right side
the number tab is at the rear of engine with the
number up.
CAUTION: The cylinder head cover fasteners have a
special plating. DO NOT use alternative fasteners.
(9) Install cylinder head cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - INSTALLATION) (Fig. 25).
(10) Install closed crankcase ventilation system.
(11) Connect the evaporation control system.
(12) Install air cleaner.
(13) Connect the negative cable to the battery.
(14) Road test vehicle and check for leaks.
INSTALLATIONÐVALVES AND VALVE SPRINGS
(1) Clean valves thoroughly. Discard burned,
warped and cracked valves.
(2) Remove carbon and varnish deposits from
inside of valve guides with a reliable guide cleaner.
(3) Measure valve stems for wear. If wear exceeds
0.051 mm (0.002 inch), replace the valve.
(4) Make sure there are no burrs on valve stems.(5) Coat valve stems with lubrication oil. Insert
valves into valve guides in cylinder head.
(6) Install new seals on all valve guides(BLACK
on intake and BROWN on exhaust). Install valve
springs and valve retainers.
(7) Compress valve springs with Valve Spring
Compressor Tool MD-998772A and adapter 6716A,
install locks and release tool. Tap the retainer with a
brass or heavy plastic hammer to ensure locks have
been seated.
(8) If valves and/or seats were ground, measure
the installed height of springs. Make sure the mea-
surement is taken from bottom of spring seat in cyl-
inder head to the bottom surface of spring retainer. If
spacers are installed, measure from the top of spacer.
If height is greater than 42.86 mm (1-11/16 inches),
install a 1.587 mm (1/16 inch) spacer in head coun-
terbore. Ensure this brings spring height back to nor-
mal, 41.27 to 42.86 mm (1-5/8 to 1-11/16 inch).
(9) Install the cylinder head (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
CYLINDER HEAD - INSTALLATION).
ROCKER ARM / ADJUSTER
ASSY
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect spark plug wires by pulling the boot
straight out in line with plug.
(2) Remove cylinder head cover and gasket (Refer
to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER
HEAD COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
(3) Remove the rocker arm bolts and the rocker
arm assembly (Fig. 26). Place rocker arm assemblies
on a bench in the same order as removed.
(4) Remove the push rods and place them on a
bench in the same order as removed.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: DO NOT rotate or crank the engine dur-
ing or immediately after rocker arm installation.
Allow the hydraulic roller tappets adequate time to
bleed down (about 5 minutes).
(1) Install the push rods in the same order as
removed.
(2) Install rocker arm assemblies in the same
order as removed. Tighten the rocker arm bolts to 28
N´m (21 ft. lbs.) torque.
(3) Install cylinder head cover and gasket (Refer to
9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - INSTALLATION).
(4) Connect spark plug wires.
Fig. 25 Cylinder Head Covers
1 - CYLINDER HEAD COVER
2 - CYLINDER HEAD COVER GASKET
9 - 84 ENGINE 8.0LBR/BE
INTAKE/EXHAUST VALVES & SEATS (Continued)

HARD SHIFTING
Hard shifting is usually caused by a low lubricant
level, improper or contaminated lubricants. The con-
sequence of using non-recommended lubricants is
noise, excessive wear, internal bind and hard shift-
ing. Substantial lubricant leaks can result in gear,
shift rail, synchro, and bearing damage. If a leak
goes undetected for an extended period, the first indi-
cations of component damage are usually hard shift-
ing and noise.
Component damage, incorrect clutch adjustment or
damaged clutch pressure plate or disc are additional
probable causes of increased shift effort. Incorrect
adjustment or a worn/damaged pressure plate or disc
can cause incorrect release. If clutch problem is
advanced, gear clash during shifts can result. Worn
or damaged synchro rings can cause gear clash when
shifting into any forward gear. In some new or
rebuilt transmissions, new synchro rings may tend to
stick slightly causing hard or noisy shifts. In most
cases this condition will decline as the rings wear-in.
TRANSMISSION NOISE
Most manual transmissions make some noise dur-
ing normal operation. Rotating gears generate a mild
whine that is audible, but generally only at extreme
speeds. Severe highly audible transmission noise is
generally the initial indicator of a lubricant problem.
Insufficient, improper or contaminated lubricant
will promote rapid wear of gears, synchros, shift
rails, forks and bearings. The overheating caused by
a lubricant problem, can also lead to gear breakage.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect battery negative cable.
(2) Shift transmission into Neutral.
(3) Remove shift boot screws from floorpan and
slide boot upward on the shift lever.
(4) Remove shift lever extension from shift tower
and lever assembly.
(5) Remove shift tower bolts holding tower to iso-
lator plate and transmission shift cover.
(6) Remove shift tower and isolator plate from
transmission shift cover.
(7) Raise and support vehicle.
(8) Remove skid plate, if equipped.
(9) Mark propeller shaft and axle yokes for instal-
lation reference and remove shaft/shafts.
(10) Remove exhaust system Y-pipe.
(11) Disconnect speed sensor and backup light
switch connectors.
(12) Support engine with safety stand and a wood
block.
(13) If transmission is to be disassembled for,
remove drain bolt at bottom of PTO cover and drain
lubricant (Fig. 4).
TWO WHEEL DRIVE
(1) Remove nuts/bolts attaching transmission to
rear mount.
(2) Support and secure transmission with safety
chains to a transmission jack.
(3) Remove rear crossmember.
(4) Remove clutch slave cylinder bolts and move
cylinder aside for clearance.
(5) Remove transmission harness wires from clips
on transmission shift cover.
(6) Remove transmission to clutch housing bolts.
(7) Slide transmission and jack rearward until
input shaft clears clutch housing.
(8) Lower transmission jack and remove transmis-
sion from under vehicle.
FOUR WHEEL DRIVE
(1) Disconnect transfer case shift linkage at trans-
fer case range lever. Then remove transfer case shift
mechanism from transmission (Fig. 5).
(2) Support and secure transfer case to transmis-
sion jack with safety chains.
(3) Remove transfer case mounting nuts.
(4) Move transfer case rearward until input gear
clears transmission mainshaft.
(5) Lower transfer case assembly and move it from
under vehicle.
(6) Support and secure transmission with safety
chains to a transmission jack.
(7) Remove transmission harness from retaining
clips on transmission shift cover.
(8) Remove bolts/nuts attaching transmission
mount to rear crossmember.
(9) Remove rear crossmember.
(10) Remove clutch slave cylinder splash shield, if
equipped.
Fig. 4 Drain Bolt
1 - PTO COVER
2 - DRAIN BOLT
3 - FILL PLUG
21 - 4 MANUAL - NV4500BR/BE
MANUAL - NV4500 (Continued)