2002 CHRYSLER VOYAGER hand brake

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HUB AND
BEARING
The condition of the front hub and bearing assem-
bly is diagnosed using the inspection and testing pro-
cedure detailed below.
The bearing contained in the Unit III front hub/
bearing assembly will produce noise and vibration
when worn or damaged. The noise will generally
change when the bearings are loaded. A road test of
the vehicle is normally required to determine the
location of a worn or damaged bearing.
Find a smooth level road surface and bring the
vehicle up to a constant speed. When vehicle is at a
constant speed, swerve the vehicle back and forth
from the left and to the right. This will load and
unload the bearings and change the noise level.
When bearing damage is slight, the noise is some-
times noticeable at lower speeds and at other times
is more noticeable at speeds above 105 km/h (65
mph).
REMOVAL
NOTE: Replacement of the Unit III front hub/bearing
assembly can be normally done without having to
remove the steering knuckle from the vehicle. In the
event that the hub/bearing is frozen in the steering
knuckle and cannot be removed by hand, it will
have to be pressed out of the steering knuckle. The
steering knuckle will require removal from the vehi-
cle to allow the hub/bearing assembly to be
pressed out of the steering knuckle. (Refer to 2 -
SUSPENSION/FRONT/KNUCKLE - REMOVAL)
(1) Raise vehicle. (Refer to LUBRICATION &
MAINTENANCE/HOISTING - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE)
(2) Remove wheel lug nuts, and front tire and
wheel assembly.
(3) Remove the cotter pin, nut lock and spring
washer from the stub axle (Fig. 4).
(4) With aid of a helper applying the brakes to
keep the front hub from turning, remove the hub nut
(Fig. 4).
(5) Remove disc brake caliper and adapter as an
assembly from knuckle as shown (Fig. 5). Hang
assembly out of the way using a bungee cord or wire.
Do not allow caliper hang by brake hose.
(6) Remove brake rotor from hub and bearing (Fig.
5).
(7) Push in on end of driveshaft stub shaft, push-
ing its splines out of the hub splines.(8) Remove the four hub and bearing mounting
bolts from the rear of steering knuckle (Fig. 6).Use
care not to come in contact with and damage
the ABS tone wheel on the driveshaft stub shaft
upon bolt removal.
(9) Remove the hub and bearing assembly from
the steering knuckle.
Fig. 4 Hub Nut
1 - HUB NUT
2 - NUT LOCK
3 - COTTER PIN
4 - SPRING WASHER
Fig. 5 Front Brake Mounting
1 - BRAKE ROTOR
2 - HUB AND BEARING
3 - STEERING KNUCKLE
4 - ADAPTER MOUNTING BOLTS
5 - BRAKE CALIPER
6 - ADAPTER
7 - CLIP
RSFRONT SUSPENSION2-5
HUB / BEARING (Continued)
ProCarManuals.com

If inspection leads to the hub and bearing, (Refer
to 2 - SUSPENSION/FRONT/HUB / BEARING -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING)
INSTALLATION - STEERING KNUCKLE
(1) If the hub and bearing needs to be installed in
the knuckle, place the hub and bearing squarely into
the center hole of the steering knuckle aligning the
threaded mounting holes of the hub and bearing with
the mounting holes in the steering knuckle. Install
the four mounting bolts and tighten them to a torque
of 65 N´m (45 ft. lbs.).
CAUTION: Before installing the knuckle on the ball
joint stud, wipe the ball joint stud and knuckle con-
tact area free of any grease or debris, otherwise
damage to the knuckle can occur. Use a clean shop
cloth with MoparTBrake Parts Cleaner applied to it
for proper cleaning. Do not spray the stud directly.
(2) Place the knuckle on the ball joint stud.
(3) Install a NEW steering knuckle to ball joint
stud nut. Tighten the nut by holding ball joint stud
with hex wrench while turning nut with a wrench
(Fig. 15). Using a crowsfoot wrench on a torquewrench, tighten the nut to a torque of 108 N´m (80 ft.
lbs.).
(4) Slide driveshaft stub axle into hub and bearing
assembly.
CAUTION: The steering knuckle to strut assembly
attaching bolts are serrated and must not be turned
during installation. Install nuts while holding bolts
stationary in the steering knuckle.
CAUTION: If the vehicle being serviced is equipped
with eccentric strut assembly attaching bolts, the
eccentric bolt must be installed in the bottom (slot-
ted) hole on the strut clevis bracket (Fig. 16).
NOTE: The strut clevis-to-steering knuckle bolts are
installed differently on each side. Left hand side
bolts are to be installed from vehicle rear to front.
Right side bolts are to be installed from vehicle
front to rear.
(5) Install steering knuckle in clevis bracket of
strut damper assembly. Install the strut clevis-to-
steering knuckle attaching bolts. Tighten both bolts
to a torque of 81 N´m (60 ft. lbs.) plus an additional
1/4 (90É) turn.
(6) Install tie rod end into knuckle steering arm.
Start nut onto stud of tie rod end. While holding stud
of tie rod end stationary using a socket (Fig. 11),
tighten tie rod end to steering knuckle attaching nut.
Tighten the tie rod end nut to a torque of 75 N´m (55
ft. lbs.).
Fig. 14 Using C-4150A To Release Ball Joint
1 - ALUMINUM KNUCKLE
2 - SPECIAL TOOL C-4150A
3 - LOWER CONTROL ARM
4 - NUT INSTALLED ON BALL JOINT STEM
Fig. 15 Ball Joint Nut Installation
1 - KNUCKLE
2 - BALL JOINT STUD
3 - LOWER CONTROL ARM
RSFRONT SUSPENSION2-9
KNUCKLE (Continued)
ProCarManuals.com

(4) Wipe any grease off the ball joint stem using a
clean shop towel with MopartBrake Parts Cleaner
applied to it.
CAUTION: Do not attempt to install a normal grease
zirc in the ball joint an lubricate the joint through
the zirc fitting.
(5) Reinstall steering knuckle on vehicle. (Refer to
2 - SUSPENSION/FRONT/KNUCKLE - INSTALLA-
TION)
INSTALLATION - EXPORT
(1) Place a liberal dab of MopartWheel Bearing
Grease around the base of the ball joint stem at the
socket.
(2) Install aNEWseal boot by hand as far as pos-
sible on the ball joint.
CAUTION: Do not use an arbor press to install the
sealing boot on the ball joint. Damage to the seal-
ing boot will occur if excessive pressure is applied
to the sealing boot when it is being installed.
(3) Place Installer, Special Tool 6758, over seal
boot and squarely align it with bottom edge of seal
boot (Fig. 20). Apply hand pressure to Special Tool
6758 until seal boot is pressed squarely against top
surface of lower control arm.
(4) Wipe any grease off the ball joint stem.
(5) Place the shield over the top of the seal boot
and stretch it into the groove at the top of the seal
boot.CAUTION: Do not attempt to install a normal grease
zirc in the ball joint and lubricate the joint through
the zirc fitting.
(6) Reinstall steering knuckle on vehicle. (Refer to
2 - SUSPENSION/FRONT/KNUCKLE - INSTALLA-
TION)
LOWER CONTROL ARM
DESCRIPTION
The lower control arm is mounted to the front sus-
pension crossmember using a pivot bolt through the
center of the front pivot bushing, and the front sus-
pension cradle crossmember reinforcement traps the
rear bushing in the crossmember (Fig. 1).
The lower control arm is an iron casting with two
rubber bushings and a ball joint. The lower control
arm front bushing is the spool type and is pressed
into the lower control arm. The standard (Low-line)
lower control arm rear bushing is a push-on bushing
that is pushed over a stem on the rear of the lower
control arm. The optional (High-line, Premium,
Sport) lower control arm rear bushing is a hydro-
bushing that is pressed on. It has liquid filled voids
that provide more effective dampening than the stan-
dard bushing. Vehicles with rear hydro-bushings uti-
lize a different lower control arm than vehicles with
standard bushings. They have a straight slightly
tapered round stem where the hydro-bushing is
mounted whereas the standard arm has a straight
stem with a squared knob on the end to retain the
bushing.
The lower control arm ball joint is pressed into the
outer end of the arm. The ball joint has a tapered
stud and retainer nut for fastening it to the steering
knuckle.
OPERATION
The lower control arm supports the lower end of
the steering knuckle and allows for the up and down
movement of the suspension during the jounce and
rebound travel. The lower control arm ball joint con-
nects the arm to the steering knuckle.
REMOVAL - LOWER CONTROL ARM
(1) Raise vehicle. (Refer to LUBRICATION &
MAINTENANCE/HOISTING - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE)
(2) Remove wheel and tire assembly.
(3) Remove the steering knuckle. (Refer to 2 -
SUSPENSION/FRONT/KNUCKLE - REMOVAL)
(4) Remove the bolts fastening the power steering
cooler to the front suspension cradle crossmember
reinforcement (Fig. 21).
Fig. 20 Installing Ball Joint Seal Boot (Typical)
1 - SHIELD (NOT ON RG VEHICLE)
2 - SPECIAL TOOL 6758
3 - LOWER CONTROL ARM
4 - BALL JOINT SEAL BOOT
2 - 12 FRONT SUSPENSIONRS
LOWER BALL JOINT SEAL BOOT (Continued)
ProCarManuals.com

(12) Slowly release the tension from the coil spring
by backing off the compressor drive fully. As the ten-
sion is relieved, make sure the upper mount, pivot
bearing and upper seat are align properly. Remove
the clamp from the lower end of the coil spring and
strut. Push back the spring compressor upper and
lower hooks, then remove the strut assembly from
the spring compressor.
(13) Install strut assembly on the vehicle. (Refer to
2 - SUSPENSION/FRONT/STRUT - INSTALLA-
TION)
INSTALLATION - STRUT ASSEMBLY
CAUTION: Front strut coil springs are side-oriented.
When installing a strut assembly, make sure the
strut being installed has the correct coil spring for
that side of the vehicle. Springs on the left side of
the vehicle have a left-hand wind top-to-bottom
while springs on the right side have a right-hand
wind top-to-bottom (Fig. 49). Do not interchange the
two sides.
(1) Install strut assembly into strut tower, aligning
and installing the 3 studs on the upper strut mount
into the holes in shock tower. Install the 3 upper
strut mount attaching nut/washer assemblies (Fig.43). Then using a crow foot. tighten the 3 attaching
nuts to a torque of 28 N´m (250 in. lbs.).
CAUTION: The steering knuckle to strut assembly
attaching bolts are serrated and must not be turned
during installation. Install nuts while holding bolts
stationary in the steering knuckles.
NOTE: The strut clevis-to-steering knuckle bolts are
installed differently on each side of the vehicle. Left
hand side bolts are to be installed from vehicle rear
to front. Right side bolts are to be installed from
vehicle front to rear.
(2) Align strut assembly with steering knuckle.
Position arm of steering knuckle into strut assembly
clevis bracket. Align the strut assembly clevis
bracket mounting holes with the steering knuckle
mounting holes. Install the 2 strut assembly to steer-
ing knuckle attaching bolts (Fig. 42).If strut assem-
bly is attached to steering knuckle using a cam
bolt, the cam bolt must be installed in the lower
slotted hole on strut clevis bracket.Tighten the
strut clevis-to-steering knuckle attaching bolts to a
torque of 81 N´m (60 ft. lbs.) plus an additional 1/4
(90É) turn after specified torque is met.
(3) Install the stabilizer bar link mounting stud
through the bracket on the strut assembly (Fig. 41).
CAUTION: When installing the nut on the mounting
stud of the stabilizer bar link, do not allow the stud
to rotate in it's socket. Hold the stud from rotating
by placing an open-end wrench on the flat
machined into the stud (Fig. 41).
(4) Hand thread the nut on the end of the stabi-
lizer bar link stud. Hold the stud from turning by
placing an open-end wrench on the flat machined
into the link's mounting stud, then tighten the nut
while holding the wrench in place (Fig. 41). Tighten
the nut to a torque of 88 N´m (65 ft. lbs.).
(5) Install the hydraulic brake hose and speed sen-
sor cable routing brackets on the strut assembly
brackets (Fig. 40). Tighten the routing bracket
attaching bolts to a torque of 13 N´m (10 ft. lbs.).
(6) Install the wheel/tire assembly on the vehicle.
(7) Install and tighten the wheel mounting stud
nuts in proper sequence until all nuts are torqued to
half specification. Then repeat the tightening
sequence to the full specified torque of 135 N´m (100
ft. lbs.).
Fig. 50 Components Lined Up
1 - IMAGINARY VERTICAL LINE
2 - CLEVIS BRACKET
3 - END OF COIL SPRING
4 - NOTCH IN UPPER SPRING SEAT
RSFRONT SUSPENSION2-25
STRUT (Continued)
ProCarManuals.com

OPERATION
The hub and bearing has internal bearings that
allow the hub to rotate with the tire and wheel
assembly (and driveshaft on All-Wheel-Drive vehi-
cles). The five wheel mounting studs mount the tire
and wheel assembly, and disc brake rotor or brake
drum to the vehicle.
On All-Wheel-Drive vehicles, the splined mating of
the driveshaft stub axle and hub allows the drive-
shaft to rotate with the hub and wheel.
Front-Wheel-Drive vehicles equipped with antilock
brakes have a wheel speed sensor and tone wheel
mounted to the rear of the hub and bearing. The tone
wheel rotates with the hub which is sensed by the
wheel speed sensor.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HUB AND
BEARING
The bearing contained in the hub and bearing
assembly will produce noise and vibration when worn
or damaged. The noise will generally change when
the bearings are loaded. A road test of the vehicle is
normally required to determine the location of a
worn or damaged bearing.
Find a smooth level road surface and bring the
vehicle up to a constant speed. When vehicle is at a
constant speed, swerve the vehicle back and forth
from the left and to the right. This will load and
unload the bearings and change the noise level.
When bearing damage is slight, the noise is some-
times noticeable at lower speeds and at other times
is more noticeable at speeds above 105 km/h (65
mph).
REMOVAL
FRONT-WHEEL-DRIVE VEHICLES
(1) Raise vehicle. (Refer to LUBRICATION &
MAINTENANCE/HOISTING - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE)
(2) Remove wheel and tire. (Refer to 22 - TIRES/
WHEELS - REMOVAL)
(3) Remove brake drum or disc brake caliper and
rotor from hub and bearing. (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/
HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/DRUM - REMOVAL-
)(Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/
ROTOR - REMOVAL)
(4) If equipped with antilock brakes, perform the
following:
(a) Remove secondary (yellow) retaining clip at
rear of wheel speed sensor head (Fig. 8).
(b) Push up on metal retaining clip (Fig. 8) until
it bottoms. This will release wheel speed sensor
head from hub and bearing.
(c) While holding metal clip up, pull back on
wheel speed sensor head removing it from hub and
bearing.
(5) Remove the 4 bolts attaching the hub and bear-
ing to the rear axle.
CAUTION: Corrosion may occur between the hub
and bearing, and the axle. If this occurs the hub
and bearing will be difficult to remove from the
axle. If the hub and bearing will not come out of the
axle by pulling on it by hand, do not pound on the
hub and bearing to remove it from the axle. Damage
will occur. Use the following procedure.
Fig. 7 Hub And Bearing - FWD With ABS
Fig. 8 Sensor Connector At Hub And Bearing
1 - SECONDARY SENSOR RETAINING CLIP
2 - METAL SENSOR RETAINING CLIP
3 - HUB AND BEARING
RSREAR SUSPENSION2-31
HUB / BEARING (Continued)
ProCarManuals.com

(6) If hub and bearing cannot be removed from the
axle by hand, use Remover, Special Tool 8458 (Fig. 9)
and following procedure to press the hub and bearing
out of the axle.
(a) Thread Threaded Guide Pins into hub and
bearing mounting bolt holes.
(b) Remove the two outboard spring plate bolts.
(c) Using the spring plate bolts, install the
Screw Mount, Special Tool 8458±2, as shown (Fig.
9).
(d) Place Push Plate, Special Tool 8458±1, on
ends of Threaded Guide Pins
(e) Place a dab of grease in dimple of Push
Plate.
(f) Tighten the Forcing Screw, Special Tool
8458±3, up against dimple in Push Plate and press
hub and bearing out of axle by continuing to
tighten screw.
(g) Remove the tool.
(h) Reinstall the two outboard spring plate bolts.
Tighten the bolts to 102 N´m (75 ft. lbs.) torque.
(7) Remove the hub/bearing from the rear axle and
brake support plate.
ALL-WHEEL-DRIVE VEHICLES
(1) Set the parking brake.The parking brake is
set to keep the hub and bearing, and axle shaft
from rotating when loosening the hub nut.(2) Raise vehicle. (Refer to LUBRICATION &
MAINTENANCE/HOISTING - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE)
(3) Remove the wheel/tire assembly. (Refer to 22 -
TIRES/WHEELS - REMOVAL)
(4) Remove the cotter pin and nut retainer (Fig.
18) from the stub shaft of the outer C/V joint.
(5) Remove the spring washer (Fig. 17) from the
stub shaft of the outer C/V joint.
(6) Remove the hub nut and washer (Fig. 16) from
the stub shaft of the outer C/V joint.
(7) Remove the 6 bolts mounting the driveshaft
inner joint to the output shaft of the rear drive line
module.
(8) Remove the rear wheel speed sensor (Fig. 19)
from the rear hub/bearing.
(9) Release the parking brake.
(10) Remove the disc brake caliper to adapter
guide pin bolts (Fig. 15).
(11) Remove rear caliper from adapter using the
following procedure. First rotate front of caliper up
from the adapter. Then pull the rear of the caliper
and the outboard brake shoe anti-rattle clip out from
under the rear abutment on the adapter (Fig. 14).
(12) Support caliper to prevent the weight of the
caliper from damaging the flexible brake hose (Fig.
10).
(13) Remove the rotor from the hub/bearing.
(14) Remove driveshaft from rear drive line mod-
ule and hub/bearing. Driveshaft is removed by first
compressing the inner joint on the driveshaft and
removing it from the drive line module. Then, slide
Fig. 9 Removal Using Special Tool 8458
1 - THREADED GUIDE PINS 8458-4
2 - HUB AND BEARING
3 - LEAF SPRING PLATE
4 - FORCING SCREW 8458-3
5 - SCREW MOUNT 8458-2
6 - PUSH PLATE 8458-1
Fig. 10 Correctly Supported Caliper
1 - WIRE
2 - CALIPER
3 - ADAPTER
4 - ROTOR
5 - INNER FENDER
2 - 32 REAR SUSPENSIONRS
HUB / BEARING (Continued)
ProCarManuals.com

the outer joint of the driveshaft out of the hub/bear-
ing.
(15) Remove the hub/bearing to axle mounting
bolts (Fig. 13).
CAUTION: Corrosion may occur between the hub/
bearing and the axle. If this occurs the hub/bearing
will be difficult to remove from the axle. If the hub/
bearing will not come out of the axle by pulling on
it by hand, do not pound on the hub/bearing to
remove it from the axle. Pounding on the hub/bear-
ing to remove it from the axle will damage the hub/
bearing. This damage will result in noise or failure
of the hub/bearing. To remove a hub/bearing which
is corroded to the axle, lightly tap the disc brake
caliper adapter using a soft faced hammer. This will
remove both the disc brake caliper adapter and
hub/bearing from the axle. The hub/bearing will
then need to be removed from the caliper adapter.
(16) Remove the hub/bearing from the axle. (Fig.
12).
(17) If the disc brake caliper adapter and hub/
bearing were removed as an assembly from the axle
and the hub/bearing cannot be removed from the
adapter by hand, use the following procedure to
remove it from the adapter. With a helper supporting
the caliper adapter in his hands, position Remover,
Special Tool 8214-1 on the cast housing of hub/bear-
ing (Fig. 11).Do not position special tool on
inner race of hub/bearing.Lightly strike Remover,
Special Tool 8214-1 with a hammer to remove the
hub/bearing from the caliper adapter.INSTALLATION
FRONT-WHEEL-DRIVE VEHICLES
(1) Install the 4 hub and bearing to axle mounting
bolts into the holes in the flange of the rear axle.
(2)
Install the rear brake support plate on the 4
mounting bolts installed in the flange of the rear axle.
(3) Align the rear hub and bearing with the 4
mounting bolts and start mounting bolts into hub
and bearing. Tighten the 4 bolts in a crisscross pat-
tern until the hub and bearing and brake support
plate is fully and squarely seated onto flange of rear
axle. Tighten the 4 mounting bolts to a torque of 129
N´m (95 ft. lbs.)
NOTE: If equipped with antilock brakes, make sure
wheel speed sensor stays clean and dry as it is
installed into the hub and bearing cap.
(4) If the vehicle is equipped with antilock brakes,
perform the following:
(a) If metal sensor retaining clip is not in the
neutral installed position on hub and bearing cap,
install from the bottom, if necessary, and push clip
upward until it snaps into position.
(b)
Install wheel speed sensor head into rear of
hub and bearing aligning index tab with the notch in
the top of the mounting hole. Push the sensor in until
it snaps into place on the metal retaining clip.
(c) Install secondary (yellow) retaining clip over
wheel speed sensor head and engage the tabs on
each side (Fig. 8).
(5) Install brake drum or disc brake rotor and
brake caliper. (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/
MECHANICAL/DRUM - INSTALLATION)(Refer to 5
- BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/ROTOR -
INSTALLATION)
(6) Install wheel and tire (Refer to 22 - TIRES/
WHEELS - INSTALLATION). Tighten the wheel
nuts in the proper sequence to a torque of 135 N´m
(100 ft. lbs.).
(7) Adjust the rear brakes as necessary. (Refer to 5
- BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/BRAKE
PADS/SHOES - ADJUSTMENTS)
(8) Lower vehicle.
(9) Road test vehicle to ensure proper operation of
brakes.
ALL-WHEEL-DRIVE VEHICLES
(1) Install hub/bearing on end of axle. (Fig. 12).
(2) Install the hub/bearing mounting bolts. In a
progressive crisscross pattern, tighten the 4 hub/
bearing mounting bolts (Fig. 13) until the disc brake
caliper adapter and hub/bearing are squarely seated
against the axle. Then tighten the hub/bearing
mounting bolts to a torque of 129 N´m (95 ft. lbs.).Fig. 11 Hub/Bearing Removal From Caliper Adapter
1 - SPECIAL TOOL 8214-1
2 - PARK BRAKE CABLE
3 - DISC BRAKE CALIPER ADAPTER
4 - HUB/BEARING
RSREAR SUSPENSION2-33
HUB / BEARING (Continued)
ProCarManuals.com

BI-DIRECTIONAL
OVERRUNNING CLUTCH
DESCRIPTION
The bi-directional overrunning clutch (BOC) (Fig.
28) works as a mechanical disconnect between the
front and rear axles, preventing torque from being
transferred from the rear axle to the front. The BOC
is a simply an overrunning clutch which works in
both clockwise and counter-clockwise rotations. This
means that when the output (the rear axle) is rotat-
ing faster in one direction than the input (front axle),
there is no torque transmission. But when the input
speed is equal to the output speed, the unit becomes
locked. The BOC provides significant benefits regard-
ing braking stability, handling, and driveline durabil-
ity. Disconnecting the front and the rear driveline
during braking helps to maintain the braking stabil-
ity of an AWD vehicle. In an ABS/braking event, the
locking of the rear wheels must be avoided for stabil-
ity reasons. Therefore brake systems are designed to
lock the front wheels first. Any torque transfer from
the rear axle to the front axle disturbs the ABS/brak-
ing system and causes potential instabilities on aslippery surface. The BOC de-couples the rear driv-
eline as soon the rear wheels begin to spin faster
than the front wheels (front wheels locked) in order
to provide increased braking stability. Furthermore
the BOC also reduces the likelihood of throttle off
over-steer during cornering. In a throttle off maneu-
ver, the BOC once again de-couples the rear driveline
forcing all the engine brake torque to the front
wheels. This eliminates the chance of lateral slip on
the rear axle and increases it on the front. The vehi-
cle will therefore tend to understeer, a situation
which is considered easier to manage in most circum-
stances. During this maneuver, and during the ABS
braking event, the BOC does not transmit torque
through to the rear wheels. The rear driveline mod-
ule, with the BOC, will perform the same as a front
wheel drive vehicle during these events. The gear
ratio offset between the front and rear differentials
force the BOC into the overrunning mode most of the
time. This allows BOC to significantly reduce the
rolling resistance of the vehicle, which improves fuel
consumption, allows the downsizing of the driveline
components, and prevents the PTU and propshaft
joints from overheating.
3 - 36 REAR DRIVELINE MODULERS
ProCarManuals.com