2002 CHRYSLER VOYAGER tow

AIR CLEANER ELEMENT
REMOVAL
(1) Unsnap 2 clips.
(2) Lift cover and pull toward the engine and
remove cover tabs from air box.
(3) Lift cover and remove the element (Fig. 11).
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the air filter element into air box (Fig.
11).
(2) Move cover so that the tabs insert into the air
box.
(3) Push cover down and snap the 2 clips.
AIR CLEANER HOUSING
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the negative battery cable.
(2) Disconnect the inlet air temperature sensor
(Fig. 12).
(3) Remove the inlet hose to throttle body (Fig. 11).
(4) Remove the bolt for air box at upper radiator
cross member.
(5) Pull air box up and off over the single locating
pin.
(6) Remove air box from vehicle
INSTALLATION
(1) Install air box into vehicle and onto the locat-
ing pin.(2) Install bolt to hold air box to the upper radia-
tor cross member.
(3) Install the inlet hose to the throttle body.
(4) Connect the inlet air temperature sensor (Fig.
12).
(5) Connect the negative battery cable.
CYLINDER HEAD
DESCRIPTION
The cross flow designed, aluminum cylinder head
contains dual over-head camshafts with four valves
per cylinder (Fig. 13). The valves are arranged in two
in-line banks. The intake valves face toward the
front of the vehicle. The exhaust valves face the dash
panel. The cylinder head incorporates powdered
metal valve guides and seats. The cylinder head is
sealed to the block using a multi-layer steel head
gasket and retaining bolts.
Integral oil galleries provide lubrication passages
to the hydraulic lash adjusters, camshafts, and valve
mechanisms.
OPERATION
The cylinder head closes the combustion chamber,
allowing the pistons to compress the fuel/air mixture
for ignition. The valves are actuated by the lobe pro-
files on the camshaft to open and close at specified
duration to either allow clean air in the combustion
chamber or the exhaust gases out; depending on the
stroke of the engine.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐCYLINDER HEAD
GASKET
A cylinder head gasket leak can be located between
adjacent cylinders or between a cylinder and the
adjacent water jacket.
Fig. 11 AIR BOX COVER
Fig. 12 IAT SENSOR 2.4L
9 - 24 ENGINE 2.4LRS
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(4) Using Tool 6771 to remove front crankshaft oil
seal (Fig. 58). Be careful not to damage the seal sur-
face of cover.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install new seal by using Special Tool 6780
(Fig. 59).
(2) Place seal into opening with seal spring
towards the inside of engine. Install seal until flush
with cover.
(3) Install crankshaft sprocket using Special Tool
6792 (Fig. 60).
(4) Install timing belt. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT/CHAIN AND
SPROCKETS - INSTALLATION)
(5) Install crankshaft vibration damper. (Refer to 9
- ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION DAMPER -
INSTALLATION)
CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL -
REAR
REMOVAL
(1) Remove transaxle. Refer to TRANSMISSION/
TRANSAXLE - REMOVAL for procedure.
(2) Remove flex plate.
(3) Insert a 3/16 flat bladed screwdriver between
the dust lip and the metal case of the crankshaft
seal. Angle the screwdriver (Fig. 61)through the dust
lip against metal case of the seal. Pry out seal.
CAUTION: Do not permit the screwdriver blade to
contact crankshaft seal surface. Contact of the
screwdriver blade against crankshaft edge (cham-
fer) is permitted.
Fig. 58 Front Crankshaft Oil Seal - Removal
1 - SPECIAL TOOL 6771
2 - REAR TIMING BELT COVER
Fig. 59 Crankshaft Front Oil Seal - Installation
1 - PROTECTOR
2 - SEAL
3 - SPECIAL TOOL 6780
Fig. 60 Crankshaft Sprocket - Installation
1 - SPECIAL TOOL 6792
2 - TIGHTEN NUT TO INSTALL
RSENGINE 2.4L9-43
CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL - FRONT (Continued)
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INSTALLATION
CAUTION: If burr or scratch is present on the
crankshaft edge (chamfer), cleanup with 400 grit
sand paper to prevent seal damage during installa-
tion of new seal.
NOTE: When installing seal, no lube on seal is
needed.
(1) Place Special Tool 6926-1 Seal Guide on crank-
shaft (Fig. 62).
(2) Position seal over guide tool (Fig. 62). Guide
tool should remain on crankshaft during installation
of seal. Ensure that the lip of the seal is facing
towards the crankcase during installation.
CAUTION: If the seal is driven into the block past
flush, this may cause an oil leak.
(3) Drive the seal into the block using Special Tool
6926-2 and handle C-4171 (Fig. 63) until the tool bot-
toms out against the block (Fig. 64).
Fig. 61 Rear Crankshaft Oil SealÐRemoval
1 - REAR CRANKSHAFT SEAL
2 - ENGINE BLOCK
3 - ENGINE BLOCK
4 - REAR CRANKSHAFT SEAL METAL CASE
5 - PRY IN THIS DIRECTION
6 - CRANKSHAFT
7 - SCREWDRIVER
8 - REAR CRANKSHAFT SEAL DUST LIP
9 - SCREWDRIVER
Fig. 62 Rear Crankshaft Seal and Special Tool
6926-1
1 - SPECIAL TOOL 6926±1 PILOT
2 - SEAL
Fig. 63 Crankshaft Seal and Special Tools 6926-2 &
C-4171
1 - SPECIAL TOOL 6926±1 PILOT
2 - SEAL
3 - SPECIAL TOOL 6926±2 INSTALLER
4 - SPECIAL TOOL C-4171
9 - 44 ENGINE 2.4LRS
CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL - REAR (Continued)
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(4) Install flex plate. Apply MopartLock & Seal
Adhesive to bolt threads and tighten bolts to 95 N´m
(70 ft. lbs.).
(5) Install transaxle. Refer to TRANSMISSION/
TRANSAXLE - INSTALLATION for procedure.
PISTON & CONNECTING ROD
DESCRIPTION
The pistons are made of a cast aluminum alloy.
The pistons have pressed-in pins attached to forged
powdered metal connecting rods. The pistons pin is
offset 1 mm (0.0394 in.) towards the thrust side of
the piston. The connecting rods are a cracked cap
design and are not repairable. Hex head cap screws
are used to provide alignment and durability in the
assembly. The pistons and connecting rods are ser-
viced as an assembly.
OPERATION
The piston and connecting rod is the link between
the combustion force to the crankshaft.
REMOVAL
NOTE: Cylinder Head must be removed before Pis-
tons and Rods (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER
HEAD - REMOVAL).
(1) Remove top ridge of cylinder bores with a reli-
able ridge reamer before removing pistons from cyl-
inder block.Be sure to keep tops of pistons
covered during this operation.
(2) Pistons have a directional stamping in the
front half of the piston facing towards thefrontof
engine (Fig. 65).
(3) Remove oil pan (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRI-
CATION/OIL PAN - REMOVAL).
(4) Remove Balance Shaft Carrier Assembly (Refer
to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/BALANCE SHAFT
CARRIER - REMOVAL).
(5) Using a permanent ink or paint marker, iden-
tify cylinder number on each connecting rod cap (Fig.
66).
CAUTION: DO NOT use a number stamp or a punch
to mark connecting rods. Damage to connecting
rod could occur.
(6) Remove connecting rod bolts and cap. Care
should be taken not to damage the fracture rod and
cap surfaces.
NOTE: Do not reuse connecting rod bolts.
(7) Pistons and connecting rods must be removed
from top of cylinder block. Rotate crankshaft so that
each connecting rod is centered in cylinder bore.
(8) Push piston and rod assembly out of cylinder
bore.
NOTE: Be careful not to nick crankshaft journals.
Fig. 64 Rear Crankshaft SealÐInstallation
1 - SPECIAL TOOL 6926±2 INSTALLER
Fig. 65 Piston Markings
1 - DIRECTIONAL ARROW WILL BE IMPRINTED IN THIS AREA
RSENGINE 2.4L9-45
CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL - REAR (Continued)
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(9) After removal, install bearing cap on the mat-
ing rod.
(10) Repeat procedure for each piston and connect-
ing rod assembly.
(11) Piston and connecting rods are serviced as an
assembly.
INSTALLATION
(1) Before installing pistons and connecting rod
assemblies into the bore, be sure that compression
ring gaps are staggered so that neither is in line with
oil ring rail gap (Fig. 67).
(2) Before installing the ring compressor, make
sure the oil ring expander ends are butted and the
rail gaps located as shown in (Fig. 67). As viewed
from top.
(3) Immerse the piston head and rings in clean
engine oil, slide the ring compressor, over the piston
(Fig. 68).Be sure position of rings does not
change during this operation.(4) The directional stamp on the piston should face
toward the front of the engine (Fig. 65).
(5) Rotate crankshaft so that the connecting rod
journal is on the center of the cylinder bore. Insert
rod and piston assembly into cylinder bore and guide
rod over the crankshaft journal.
(6) Tap the piston down in cylinder bore, using a
hammer handle. At the same time, guide connecting
rod into position on connecting rod journal.
NOTE: The connecting rod cap bolts should not be
reused.
(7) Before installing theNEWbolts the threads
should be coated with clean engine oil.
(8) Install each bolt finger tight then alternately
torque each bolt to assemble the cap properly.
CAUTION: Do not use a torque wrench for second
part of last step.
(9) Tighten the bolts to 27 N´m PLUS 1/4 turn (20
ft. lbs. PLUS 1/4 turn).
(10) Using a feeler gauge, check connecting rod
side clearance (Fig. 69).
(11) Install Balance Shaft Carrier Assembly (Refer
to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/BALANCE SHAFT
CARRIER - INSTALLATION).
(12) Install oil pan (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRI-
CATION/OIL PAN - INSTALLATION).
(13) Install cylinder head (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
CYLINDER HEAD - INSTALLATION).
Fig. 66 Identify Connecting Rod to Cylinder
Fig. 67 Piston Ring End Gap Position
1 - GAP OF LOWER SIDE RAIL
2 - NO. 1 RING GAP
3 - GAP OF UPPER SIDE RAIL
4 - NO. 2 RING GAP AND SPACER EXPANDER GAP
Fig. 68 PistonÐInstallation
9 - 46 ENGINE 2.4LRS
PISTON & CONNECTING ROD (Continued)
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LUBRICATION
DESCRIPTION
The lubrication system is a full-flow filtration,
pressure feed type. The oil pump is mounted in the
front engine cover and driven by the crankshaft.
OPERATION
Engine oil drawn up through the pickup tube and
is pressurized by the oil pump and routed through
the full-flow filter to the main oil gallery running the
length of the cylinder block. A diagonal hole in each
bulkhead feeds oil to each main bearing. Drilled pas-
sages within the crankshaft route oil from main bear-
ing journals to connecting rod journals. Balance shaft
lubrication is provided through an oil passage from
the number one main bearing cap through the bal-
ance shaft carrier support leg. This passage directly
supplies oil to the front bearings and internal
machined passages in the shafts that routes oil from
front to the rear shaft bearing journals. A vertical
hole at the number five bulkhead routes pressurized
oil through a restrictor (integral to the cylinder head
gasket) up past a cylinder head bolt to an oil galleryrunning the length of the cylinder head. The cam-
shaft journals are partially slotted to allow a prede-
termined amount of pressurized oil to pass into the
bearing cap cavities. Lubrication of the camshaft
lobes are provided by small holes in the camshaft
bearing caps that are directed towards each lobe. Oil
returning to the pan from pressurized components
supplies lubrication to the valve stems. Cylinder
bores and wrist pins are splash lubricated from
directed slots on the connecting rod thrust collars.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CHECKING
ENGINE OIL PRESSURE
(1) Disconnect and remove oil pressure switch.
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PRES-
SURE SENSOR/SWITCH - REMOVAL)
(2) Install Special Tools C-3292 Gauge with 8406
Adaptor fitting.
(3) Start engine and record oil pressure. Refer to
Specifications for correct oil pressure requirements.
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE - SPECIFICATIONS)
CAUTION: If oil pressure is 0 at idle, do not perform
the 3000 RPM test
(4) If oil pressure is 0 at idle. Shut off engine,
check for pressure relief valve stuck open, a clogged
oil pick-up screen or a damaged oil pick-up tube
O-ring.
(5) After test is complete, remove test gauge and
fitting.
(6) Install oil pressure switch and connector. (Refer
to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PRESSURE
SENSOR/SWITCH - INSTALLATION)
OIL
STANDARD PROCEDURE
ENGINE OIL LEVEL CHECK
The best time to check engine oil level is after it
has sat overnight, or if the engine has been running,
allow the engine to be shut off for at least 5 minutes
before checking oil level.
Checking the oil while the vehicle is on level
ground will improve the accuracy of the oil level
reading. Remove dipstick and observe oil level. Add
oil only when the level is at or below the ADD mark
(Fig. 87).
Fig. 86 RIGHT MOUNT TO RAIL AND ENGINE
1 - BOLT - MOUNT TO RAIL 68 N´m (50 ft. lbs.)
2 - BOLT - MOUNT TO ENGINE 54 N´m (40 ft. lbs.)
3 - BOLT - MOUNT TO RAIL (HORIZONTAL) 68 N´m (50 ft. lbs.)
4 - RIGHT ENGINE MOUNT
5 - RIGHT FRAME RAIL
RSENGINE 2.4L9-53
RIGHT MOUNT (Continued)
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MOPARtGASKET MAKERis an anaerobic type
gasket material. The material cures in the absence of
air when squeezed between two metallic surfaces. It
will not cure if left in the uncovered tube. The
anaerobic material is for use between two machined
surfaces. Do not use on flexible metal flanges.
MOPARtBED PLATE SEALANTis a unique
(green-in-color) anaerobic type gasket material that
is specially made to seal the area between the bed-
plate and cylinder block without disturbing the bear-
ing clearance or alignment of these components. The
material cures slowly in the absence of air when
torqued between two metallic surfaces, and will rap-
idly cure when heat is applied.
MOPARtGASKET SEALANTis a slow drying,
permanently soft sealer. This material is recom-
mended for sealing threaded fittings and gaskets
against leakage of oil and coolant. Can be used on
threaded and machined parts under all tempera-
tures. This material is used on engines with multi-
layer steel (MLS) cylinder head gaskets. This
material also will prevent corrosion. MopartGasket
Sealant is available in a 13 oz. aerosol can or 4oz./16
oz. can w/applicator.
SEALER APPLICATION
MopartGasket Maker material should be applied
sparingly 1 mm (0.040 in.) diameter or less of sealant
to one gasket surface. Be certain the material sur-
rounds each mounting hole. Excess material can eas-
ily be wiped off. Components should be torqued in
place within 15 minutes. The use of a locating dowel
is recommended during assembly to prevent smear-
ing material off the location.
MopartEngine RTV GEN II or ATF RTV gasket
material should be applied in a continuous bead
approximately 3 mm (0.120 in.) in diameter. All
mounting holes must be circled. For corner sealing, a
3.17 or 6.35 mm (1/8 or 1/4 in.) drop is placed in the
center of the gasket contact area. Uncured sealant
may be removed with a shop towel. Components
should be torqued in place while the sealant is still
wet to the touch (within 10 minutes). The usage of a
locating dowel is recommended during assembly to
prevent smearing material off the location.
MopartGasket Sealant in an aerosol can should be
applied using a thin, even coat sprayed completely
over both surfaces to be joined, and both sides of a
gasket. Then proceed with assembly. Material in a
can w/applicator can be brushed on evenly over the
sealing surfaces. Material in an aerosol can should be
used on engines with multi-layer steel gaskets.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ENGINE GASKET
SURFACE PREPARATION
To ensure engine gasket sealing, proper surface
preparation must be performed, especially with the
use of aluminum engine components and multi-layer
steel cylinder head gaskets.
Neveruse the following to clean gasket surfaces:
²Metal scraper
²Abrasive pad or paper to clean cylinder block
and head
²High speed power tool with an abrasive pad or a
wire brush (Fig. 4)
NOTE: Multi-Layer Steel (MLS) head gaskets require
a scratch free sealing surface.
Only use the following for cleaning gasket surfaces:
²Solvent or a commercially available gasket
remover
²Plastic or wood scraper (Fig. 4)
²Drill motor with 3M RolocŸ Bristle Disc (white
or yellow) (Fig. 4)
CAUTION: Excessive pressure or high RPM (beyond
the recommended speed), can damage the sealing
surfaces. The mild (white, 120 grit) bristle disc is
recommended. If necessary, the medium (yellow, 80
grit) bristle disc may be used on cast iron surfaces
with care.
Fig. 4 Proper Tool Usage For Surface Preparation
1 - ABRASIVE PAD
2 - 3M ROLOCŸ BRISTLE DISC
3 - PLASTIC/WOOD SCRAPER
RSENGINE 3.3/3.8L9-85
ENGINE 3.3/3.8L (Continued)
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STANDARD PROCEDURE - HYDROSTATIC
LOCKED ENGINE
When an engine is suspected to be hydrostatically
locked, regardless of what caused the problem, the
following steps should be used.
CAUTION: DO NOT use starter motor to rotate the
engine, severe damage may occur.
(1) Inspect air cleaner, induction system and
intake manifold to insure system is dry and clear of
foreign material.
(2) Remove negative battery cable.
(3) Place a shop towel around the spark plugs
when removing them from the engine. This will catch
any fluid that may possibly be in the cylinder under
pressure.
(4) With all spark plugs removed, rotate engine
crankshaft using a breaker bar and socket.
(5) Identify the fluid in the cylinder(s) (i.e., cool-
ant, fuel, oil or other).
(6) Make sure all fluid has been removed from the
cylinders. Inspect engine for damage (i.e., connecting
rods, pistons, valves, etc.)
(7) Repair engine or components as necessary to
prevent this problem from re-occurring.
CAUTION: Squirt approximately one teaspoon of oil
into the cylinders, rotate engine to lubricate the cyl-
inder walls to prevent damage on restart.
(8) Install new spark plugs.
(9) Drain engine oil and remove oil filter.
(10) Install a new oil filter.
(11) Fill engine with specified amount of approved
oil.
(12) Connect negative battery cable.
(13) Start engine and check for any leaks.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - REPAIR OF
DAMAGED OR WORN THREADS
Damaged or worn threads (excluding spark plug
and camshaft bearing cap attaching threads) can be
repaired. Essentially, this repair consists of drilling
out worn or damaged threads, tapping the hole with
a special Heli-Coil Tap, (or equivalent) and installing
an insert into the tapped hole. This brings the hole
back to its original thread size.CAUTION: Be sure that the tapped holes maintain
the original center line.
Heli-Coil tools and inserts are readily available
from automotive parts jobbers.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ENGINE CORE AND
OIL GALLERY PLUGS
Using a blunt tool such as a drift and a hammer,
strike the bottom edge of the cup plug. With the cup
plug rotated, grasp firmly with pliers or other suit-
able tool and remove plug (Fig. 5).
CAUTION: Do not drive cup plug into the casting as
restricted cooling can result and cause serious
engine problems.
Thoroughly clean inside of cup plug hole in cylin-
der block or head. Be sure to remove old sealer.
Lightly coat inside of cup plug hole with Mopart
Stud and Bearing Mount. Make certain the new plug
is cleaned of all oil or grease. Using proper drive
plug, drive plug into hole so that the sharp edge of
the plug is at least 0.5 mm (0.020 in.) inside the
lead-in chamfer.
It is not necessary to wait for curing of the sealant.
The cooling system can be refilled and the vehicle
placed in service immediately.
Fig. 5 Core Hole Plug Removal
1 - CYLINDER BLOCK
2 - REMOVE PLUG WITH PLIERS
3 - STRIKE HERE WITH HAMMER
4 - DRIFT PUNCH
5 - CUP PLUG
9 - 86 ENGINE 3.3/3.8LRS
ENGINE 3.3/3.8L (Continued)
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