DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE DIAGNOSIS - MECHANICAL
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
NOISY VALVES 1. High or low oil level in
crankcase.1. Check and correct engine oil
level.
2. Thin or diluted oil. 2. Change oil to correct viscosity.
3. Thick oil 3. (a) Change engine oil and filter.
(b) Run engine to operating
temperature.
(c) Change engine oil and filter
again.
4. Low oil pressure. 4. Check and correct engine oil
pressure problem.
5. Dirt in hydraulic lifters/lash
adjusters.5. Replace hydraulic lifters/lash
adjusters.
6. Worn rocker arms. 6. Inspect oil supply to rocker arms.
7. Worn hydraulic lifters/lash
adjusters.7. Replace hydraulic lifters/lash
adjusters.
8. Worn valve guides. 8. Replace cylinder head assembly.
9. Excessive runout of valve seats
on valve faces.9. Grind valve seats and valves.
CONNECTING ROD NOISE 1. Insufficient oil supply. 1. Check engine oil level.
2. Low oil pressure. 2. Check engine oil level. Inspect oil
pump relief valve and spring.
3. Thin or diluted oil. 3. Change oil to correct viscosity.
4. Thick oil 4. (a) Change engine oil and filter.
(b) Run engine to operating
temperature.
(c) Change engine oil and filter
again.
5. Excessive bearing clearance. 5. Measure bearings for correct
clearance. Repair as necessary.
6. Connecting rod journal
out-of-round.6. Replace crankshaft or grind
surface.
7. Misaligned connecting rods. 7. Replace bent connecting rods.
9 - 80 ENGINE 3.3/3.8LRS
ENGINE 3.3/3.8L (Continued)
ProCarManuals.com
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
MAIN BEARING NOISE 1. Insufficient oil supply. 1. Check engine oil level.
2. Low oil pressure. 2. Check engine oil level. Inspect oil
pump relief valve and spring.
3. Thin or diluted oil. 3. Change oil to correct viscosity.
4. Thick oil 4. (a) Change engine oil and filter.
(b) Run engine to operating
temperature.
(c) Change engine oil and filter
again.
5. Excessive bearing clearance. 5. Measure bearings for correct
clearance. Repair as necessary.
6. Excessive end play. 6. Check thrust bearing for wear on
flanges.
7. Crankshaft journal out-of-round
or worn.7. Replace crankshaft or grind
journals.
8. Loose flywheel or torque
converter.8. Tighten to correct torque.
OIL PRESSURE DROP 1. Low oil level. 1. Check engine oil level.
2. Faulty oil pressure sensor/switch. 2. Replace oil pressure sensor/
switch.
3. Low oil pressure. 3. Check oil pressure sensor/switch
and main bearing oil clearance.
4. Clogged oil filter. 4. Install new oil filter.
5. Worn parts in oil pump. 5. Replace worn parts or pump.
6. Thin or diluted oil. 6. Change oil to correct viscosity.
7. Oil pump relief valve stuck. 7. Remove valve and inspect, clean,
or replace.
8. Oil pump suction tube loose. 8. Remove oil pan and install new
tube or clean, if necessary.
9. Oil pump cover warped or
cracked.9. Install new oil pump.
10. Excessive bearing clearance. 10. Measure bearings for correct
clearance.
OIL LEAKS 1. Misaligned or deteriorated
gaskets.1. Replace gasket(s).
2. Loose fastener, broken or porous
metal part.2. Tighten, repair or replace the
part.
3. Misaligned or deteriorated cup or
threaded plug.3. Replace as necessary.
RSENGINE 3.3/3.8L9-81
ENGINE 3.3/3.8L (Continued)
ProCarManuals.com
(3) Remove torque converter or clutch housing
cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil.
Use a black light to check for the oil leak. If a leak is
present in this area, remove transmission for further
inspection.
(a) Circular spray pattern generally indicates
seal leakage or crankshaft damage.
(b) Where leakage tends to run straight down,
possible causes are a porous block, oil gallery cup
plug, bedplate to cylinder block mating surfaces
and seal bore. See proper repair procedures for
these items.
(4) If no leaks are detected, pressurize the crank-
case as previously described.
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
(5) If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the
crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is
detected between the crankshaft and seal while
slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the
crankshaft seal surface is damaged. The seal area on
the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches
that can be polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft
polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks and
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is especially
machined to complement the function of the rear oil
seal.
(6) For bubbles that remain steady with shaft
rotation, no further inspection can be done until dis-
assembled.
(7) After the oil leak root cause and appropriate
corrective action have been identified, replace compo-
nent(s) as necessary.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CYLINDER
COMPRESSION PRESSURE TEST
The results of a cylinder compression pressure test
can be utilized to diagnose several engine malfunc-
tions.
Ensure the battery is completely charged and the
engine starter motor is in good operating condition.
Otherwise the indicated compression pressures may
not be valid for diagnosis purposes.
(1) Check engine oil level and add oil if necessary.
(2) Drive the vehicle until engine reaches normal
operating temperature. Select a route free from traf-
fic and other forms of congestion, observe all traffic
laws, and accelerate through the gears several times
briskly.
(3) Remove all spark plugs from engine. As spark
plugs are being removed, check electrodes for abnor-
mal firing indicators fouled, hot, oily, etc. Record cyl-
inder number of spark plug for future reference.(4) Remove the Auto Shutdown (ASD) relay from
the PDC.
(5) Be sure throttle blade is fully open during the
compression check.
(6) Insert compression gauge adaptor Special Tool
8116 or the equivalent, into the #1 spark plug hole in
cylinder head. Connect the 0±500 psi (Blue) pressure
transducer (Special Tool CH7059) with cable adap-
tors to the DRBIIIt. For Special Tool identification,
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE - SPECIAL TOOLS).
(7) Crank engine until maximum pressure is
reached on gauge. Record this pressure as #1 cylin-
der pressure.
(8) Repeat the previous step for all remaining cyl-
inders.
(9) Compression should not be less than 689 kPa
(100 psi) and not vary more than 25 percent from cyl-
inder to cylinder.
(10) If one or more cylinders have abnormally low
compression pressures, repeat the compression test.
(11) If the same cylinder or cylinders repeat an
abnormally low reading on the second compression
test, it could indicate the existence of a problem in
the cylinder in question.The recommended com-
pression pressures are to be used only as a
guide to diagnosing engine problems. An engine
should not be disassembled to determine the
cause of low compression unless some malfunc-
tion is present.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CYLINDER
COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE TEST
The combustion pressure leakage test provides an
accurate means for determining engine condition.
Combustion pressure leakage testing will detect:
²Exhaust and intake valve leaks (improper seat-
ing).
²Leaks between adjacent cylinders or into water
jacket.
²Any causes for combustion/compression pressure
loss.
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE PRESSURE CAP
WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER PRESSURE
BECAUSE SERIOUS BURNS FROM COOLANT CAN
OCCUR.
Check the coolant level and fill as required. DO
NOT install the pressure cap.
Start and operate the engine until it attains nor-
mal operating temperature, then turn the engine
OFF.
Clean spark plug recesses with compressed air.
Remove the spark plugs.
Remove the oil filler cap.
Remove the air cleaner.
RSENGINE 3.3/3.8L9-83
ENGINE 3.3/3.8L (Continued)
ProCarManuals.com
(20) Install the powertrain struts (Fig. 8).
(21) Install the engine rear mount bracket.
(22) Install the engine front mount and bracket
assembly.
(23)AWD equipped;Install the power transfer
unit (PTU) (Refer to 21 - TRANSMISSION/TRANS-
AXLE/POWER TRANSFER UNIT - INSTALLA-
TION).
(24) Install the axle shafts (Refer to 3 - DIFFER-
ENTIAL & DRIVELINE/HALF SHAFT - INSTALLA-
TION).(25) Connect exhaust pipe to manifold (Fig. 7).
(26) Install crossmember cradle plate (Fig. 6).
(27) Lower vehicle.
(28) Connect transaxle shift linkage.
(29) Connect transaxle electrical connectors.
(30) Remove plugs from transmission cooler hoses
and install transaxle oil cooler line service splice kit.
Refer to instructions included with kit.
(31) Install transaxle dipstick tube and attach
electrical harness clip.
(32) Connect the A/C lines to compressor.
(33)
Connect the A/C compressor electrical connector.
(34) Evacuate and recharge A/C system.
(35) Connect crankshaft and camshaft position
sensors.
(36) Connect the fuel injector electrical harness
connector and engage clip to support bracket.
(37) Connect engine coolant temperature (ECT)
sensor and ignition coil electrical connectors.
(38) Connect the ground strap to rear of cylinder
head.
(39) Install power steering reservoir.
(40) Engage wire harness clip to engine right side
mount.
(41) Connect the brake booster and speed control
vacuum hoses.
(42) Connect the vacuum hoses to the throttle
body.
(43) Connect the EGR transducer electrical connec-
tor (if equipped).
(44) Connect the TPS, IAC, and MAP sensor elec-
trical connectors.
(45) Connect throttle cables to throttle body.
(46) Install the radiator fans (Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING/ENGINE/RADIATOR FAN - INSTALLATION).
(47) Connect the radiator upper hose.
(48) Connect the heater hoses. Remove pinch-off
pliers from the rear heater hoses (if equipped).
(49) Install the radiator upper support crossmem-
ber (Refer to 23 - BODY/EXTERIOR/GRILLE OPEN-
ING REINFORCEMENT - INSTALLATION).
(50) Install the wiper module (Refer to 8 - ELEC-
TRICAL/WIPERS/WASHERS/WIPER MODULE -
INSTALLATION).
(51) Connect the fuel line to fuel rail (Refer to 14 -
FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY/FUEL LINES -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(52) Install the air cleaner and hoses.
(53) Install new oil filter. Fill engine crankcase
with proper oil to correct level.
(54) Connect negative cable to battery.
(55) Fill the cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING
- STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(56) Start engine and run until operating temper-
ature is reached.
(57) Adjust transmission linkage, if necessary.
Fig. 13 Right Mount to Engine
1 - BOLT
2 - MOUNT BRACKET
3 - ENGINE RIGHT MOUNT ASSEMBLY
Fig. 14 LEFT MOUNT TO FRAME BRACKET
1 - FRAME BRACKET
2 - FRAME RAIL - LEFT
3 - BOLT
4 - TRANSAXLE MOUNT
RSENGINE 3.3/3.8L9-91
ENGINE 3.3/3.8L (Continued)
ProCarManuals.com
NOTE: The main cap bolts should be examined
before reuse. Bolt stretch can be checked by hold-
ing a scale or straight edge against the threads. If
all the threads do not contact the scale the bolt
must be replaced (Fig. 63).
(5) Install each main cap and tighten bolts finger
tight.
(6) Tighten number 1, 3 and 4 main cap bolts to 41
N´m + 1/4 Turn (30 ft. lbs.+ 1/4 Turn).
(7) Rotate the crankshaft until the number 6 pis-
ton is at TDC.
(8) To ensure correct thrust bearing alignment the
following procedure must be done:
a. Move crankshaft all the way to the rear of its
travel.
b. Then, move crankshaft all the way to the front
of its travel.
c. Wedge an appropriate tool between the rear of
the cylinder block and rear crankshaft counter-
weight. This will hold the crankshaft in it's most for-
ward position.
d. Tighten the #2 Thrust Bearing cap bolts to 41
N´m + 1/4 Turn (30 ft. lbs.+ 1/4 Turn). Remove the
holding tool.
(9) Install oil pan. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRI-
CATION/OIL PAN - INSTALLATION)
(10) Fill engine crankcase with proper oil to cor-
rect level.
CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL -
FRONT
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Raise vehicle on hoist. Remove right wheel and
inner splash shield.(3) Remove accessory drive belt. (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
REMOVAL)
(4) Remove crankshaft damper. (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION DAMPER -
REMOVAL)
(5) Position Special Tool 6341A on crankshaft nose.
Carefully screw the tool into the seal until it engages
firmly (Fig. 64). Be careful not to damage that crank-
shaft seal surface of cover
(6) Remove oil seal by turning the forcing screw
until the seal disengages from the cover (Fig. 65).
Fig. 63 Check for Stretched (Necked) Bolts
1 - STRETCHED BOLT
2 - THREADS ARE NOT STRAIGHT ON LINE
3 - THREADS ARE STRAIGHT ON LINE
4 - UNSTRETCHED BOLT
Fig. 64 Engaging Tool into Seal
1 - SEAL
2 - SPECIAL TOOL 6341A
Fig. 65 Crankshaft Front Seal Removal
1 - SEAL
2 - SPECIAL TOOL 6341A
9 - 122 ENGINE 3.3/3.8LRS
CRANKSHAFT MAIN BEARINGS (Continued)
ProCarManuals.com
(3) Install flex plate bolts (Fig. 70). Tighten bolts
to 95 N´m (70 ft. lbs.).
(4) Install the transaxle (Refer to 21 - TRANSMIS-
SION/TRANSAXLE/AUTOMATIC - 41TE - INSTAL-
LATION).
HYDRAULIC LIFTERS (CAM IN
BLOCK)
DESCRIPTION
The hydraulic lifters are a roller type design and are
positioned in the cylinder block. The lifters are aligned
and retained by a yoke and a retainer (Fig. 71).
Lifter alignment is maintained by machined flats
on lifter body. Lifters are fitted in pairs into six
aligning yokes. The aligning yokes are secured by a
yoke retainer (Fig. 71).
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HYDRAULIC
LIFTERS
HYDRAULIC LIFTERS DIAGNOSIS - PRELIMINARY
STEP
Before disassembling any part of the engine to cor-
rect lifter noise, check the engine oil pressure. (Refer
to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRICATION - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING)
Check engine oil level. The oil level in the pan
should never be above the MAX mark on dipstick, or
below the MIN mark. Either of these two conditions
could cause noisy lifters.
OIL LEVEL TOO HIGH
If oil level is above the MAX mark on dipstick, it is
possible for the connecting rods to dip into the oil
while engine is running and create foaming. Foam in
oil pan would be fed to the hydraulic lifters by the oil
pump causing them to become soft and allow valves
to seat noisily.
OIL LEVEL TOO LOW
Low oil level may allow pump to take in air which
when fed to the lifters it causes them to become soft
and allows valves to seat noisily. Any leaks on intake
side of pump, through which air can be drawn, will
create the same lifter noise. Check the lubrication
system from the intake strainer to the oil pump
cover, including the relief valve retainer cap. When
lifter noise is due to aeration, it may be intermittent
or constant, and usually more than one lifter will be
noisy. When oil level and leaks have been corrected,
the engine should be operated at fast idle to allow all
of the air inside of the lifters to be bled out.
VALVE TRAIN NOISE
To determine source of valve train noise, operate
engine at idle with cylinder head covers removed and
listen for source of the noise.
NOTE: Worn valve guides or cocked springs are
sometimes mistaken for noisy lifters. If such is the
case, noise may be dampened by applying side
thrust on the valve spring. If noise is not apprecia-
bly reduced, it can be assumed the noise is in the
tappet. Inspect the rocker arm push rod sockets
and push rod ends for wear.
Valve lifter noise ranges from light noise to a
heavy click. A light noise is usually caused by exces-
sive leak-down around the unit plunger which will
necessitate replacing the lifter, or by the plunger par-
tially sticking in the lifter body cylinder. A heavy
click is caused either by a lifter check valve not seat-
ing, or by foreign particles becoming wedged between
Fig. 71 Hydraulic Lifters
1 - YOKE RETAINER
2 - BOLT - YOKE RETAINER
3 - ALIGNING YOKE
4 - HYDRAULIC LIFTER
RSENGINE 3.3/3.8L9 - 125
FLEX PLATE (Continued)
ProCarManuals.com
(11) Install the cylinder heads. (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD - INSTALLATION)
(12) Install the oil pan. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL PAN - INSTALLATION)
(13) Fill engine crankcase with proper oil to cor-
rect level.
(14) Connect negative cable to battery.PISTON RINGS
STANDARD PROCEDURE - PISTON RING
FITTING
(1) Wipe cylinder bore clean. Insert the ring and
push down with piston to ensure squareness in bore
to approximately 12 mm (0.50 in.) from top of cylin-
der bore. Check ring gap with a feeler gauge (Fig.
83). For clearance specification (Refer to 9 - ENGINE
- SPECIFICATIONS).
(2) Check piston ring to groove side clearance (Fig.
84). For clearance specification (Refer to 9 - ENGINE
- SPECIFICATIONS)
Fig. 82 Piston and Connecting Rod Positioning (Front View of Engine)
1 - MAJOR THRUST SIDE OF PISTON 2 - OIL SQUIRT HOLE
9 - 130 ENGINE 3.3/3.8LRS
PISTON & CONNECTING ROD (Continued)
ProCarManuals.com
OIL
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ENGINE OIL AND
FILTER CHANGE
Change engine oil at mileage and time intervals
described in the Maintenance Schedule. (Refer to
LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE/MAINTE-
NANCE SCHEDULES - DESCRIPTION)
WARNING: NEW OR USED ENGINE OIL CAN BE
IRRITATING TO THE SKIN. AVOID PROLONGED OR
REPEATED SKIN CONTACT WITH ENGINE OIL.
CONTAMINANTS IN USED ENGINE OIL, CAUSED BY
INTERNAL COMBUSTION, CAN BE HAZARDOUS TO
YOUR HEALTH. THOROUGHLY WASH EXPOSED
SKIN WITH SOAP AND WATER. DO NOT WASH
SKIN WITH GASOLINE, DIESEL FUEL, THINNER, OR
SOLVENTS, HEALTH PROBLEMS CAN RESULT. DO
NOT POLLUTE, DISPOSE OF USED ENGINE OIL
PROPERLY. CONTACT YOUR DEALER OR GOVERN-MENT AGENCY FOR LOCATION OF COLLECTION
CENTER IN YOUR AREA.
Run engine until achieving normal operating tem-
perature.
(1) Position the vehicle on a level surface and turn
engine off.
(2) Open hood, remove oil fill cap.
(3) Hoist and support vehicle on safety stands.
Refer to Hoisting and Jacking Recommendations.
(Refer to LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE/HOIST-
ING - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
(4) Place a suitable drain pan under crankcase
drain (Fig. 101).
(5) Remove drain plug from crankcase (Fig. 101)
and allow oil to drain into pan. Inspect drain plug
threads for stretching or other damage. Replace
drain plug and gasket if damaged.
(6) Remove oil filter. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRI-
CATION/OIL FILTER - REMOVAL)
(7) Install and tighten drain plug in crankcase.
(8) Install new oil filter. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL FILTER - INSTALLATION)
Fig. 100 Engine Oiling System
1 - OIL SUPPLY FOR BALL SOCKET THROUGH PUSH ROD 7 - OUTER ROTOR
2 - OIL SUPPLY PASSAGE FROM SHAFT TO ROCKER ARM 8 - INNER ROTOR
3 - ROCKER SHAFT 9 - RELIEF VALVE
4 - OIL FLOWS TO ONLY ONE PEDASTAL ON EACH HEAD; THIRD
FROM REAR ON RIGHT HEAD, THIRD FROM FRONT ON LEFT
HEAD10 - OIL PAN
5 - ROCKER SHAFT TOWER 11 - OIL SCREEN
6 - CRANKSHAFT 12 - OIL PUMP CASE
9 - 138 ENGINE 3.3/3.8LRS
LUBRICATION (Continued)
ProCarManuals.com