HEADLAMP WASHERS -
EXPORT
DESCRIPTION
The headlamp washers (Fig. 3) work in conjunction
with the windshield washers. The headlamp washers
are enabled with the headlamps ON and the wind-
shield washers activated. With the windshield wash-
ers activated, the headlamp washers will spray twice
for a predetermined amount of time.
OPERATION
The headlamp washer system utilizes a separate
high pressure pump that is attached to the wind-
shield washer reservoir. The headlamp washer pump
feeds nozzles that are mounted in the front fascia of
the vehicle. The nozzle bodies have a telescopic
action that will extend the nozzles in front of the
headlamp assembly. These nozzles spray the head-
lamps when the system is activated.
To activate the headlamp washers, turn ON the
headlamps and them press the windshield washer
control knob (Fig. 4). The switch sends an input to
the Body Control Module (BCM), and then the BCM
will signal the windshield washers to operate and
direct two timed high pressure sprays onto the head-
lamp lens. When the criteria is met to activate the
headlamp washers (headlamps ON and windshield
washer control depressed), the headlamp washerswill spray its two timed pulses every fourth request
from the washer control.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HEADLAMP
WASHERS - EXPORT
The headlamp washer pump pick-up is located
above the low washer fluid level sensor. First of all
check the fluid level in the reservoir.
(1) Check fuse #30 for continuity. If no continuity,
go to Step 3.
(2) If the headlamp washers do not pop up when a
headlamp wash is requested, disconnect the head-
lamp washer hose. To disconnect the headlamp
washer hose, push down on the latch at any connec-
tor with slight force and pull apart. When reattach-
ing, push till you hear a snap. With a regulated 20
psi of air pressure, apply it to the washer hose. The
headlamp washers should pop up out of the front fas-
cia. If not, check for leaks/connections in the hose.
WARNING: IF MORE THAN 20 PSI IS APPLIED TO
THE WASHER HOSE, WASHER FLUID MAY SPRAY
OUT OF THE HEADLAMP WASHER. WEAR SAFETY
GLASSES AND DO NOT HAVE AIMING DIRECTLY
TOWARD FACE.
(3) If the hose and washer spray assembly are OK,
check the washer pump for ground and 12v power
during a washer request. If defective, repair circuit
as necessary.
Fig. 3 HEADLAMP WASHER LOCATION
Fig. 4 WINDSHIELD WASHER CONTROL
RSWIPERS/WASHERS8R-11
ProCarManuals.com
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative
cable.
(2) Hoist vehicle or support on jack stands.
(3) Disconnect the hose from the nozzle inlet. To
disconnect the headlamp washer hose, push down on
the latch with slight force and pull apart.
(4) Apply a regulated 20 psi of compressed air to
the inlet, so as to fully extend the telescopic unit.
WARNING: IF MORE THAN 20 PSI IS APPLIED TO
THE WASHER INLET, WASHER FLUID MAY SPRAY
OUT OF THE HEADLAMP WASHER. WEAR SAFETY
GLASSES AND DO NOT HAVE AIMING DIRECTLY
TOWARD FACE.
(5) Unsnap cover from telescopic assembly.
(6) Disconnect air supply from washer inlet to fully
retract the telescopic unit.
(7) Remove two screws holding the nozzle assem-
bly to the front fascia.
(8) Remove the nozzle assembly from behind fas-
cia.
INSTALLATION
(1) Place the nozzle assembly in behind the fascia.
(2) Install the two screws holding the nozzle
assembly to the front fascia.
(3) Snap cover onto telescopic assembly.
WARNING: IF MORE THAN 20 PSI IS APPLIED TO
THE WASHER INLET, WASHER FLUID MAY SPRAY
OUT OF THE HEADLAMP WASHER. WEAR SAFETY
GLASSES AND DO NOT HAVE AIMING DIRECTLY
TOWARD FACE.
On the new washer unit, there is a white tab with
pull ring holding the telescopic unit up approxi-
mately an inch. This is to ease the installation pro-
cess. Once cover is snapped on, you may either pull
up on the unit to remove the tab, or apply regulated
compressed air.
(4) Apply a regulated 20 psi of compressed air the
inlet, so as to fully extend the telescopic unit.
(5) With unit extended, pull white tab out from the
bottom of the telescopic unit and discard.
(6) Remove the air supply from the washer unit.
(7) Connect the washer hose to the telescopic unit.
Press firmly until snap is heard.
(8) Remove vehicle from hoist or jack stands.
(9) Connect the battery negative cable.
(10) Verify vehicle and system operation.
HEADLAMP WASHER HOSE -
EXPORT
REMOVAL
The headlamp washer hose is a special high pres-
sure hose with specific fittings, and must be replaced
as a unit.
(1) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative
cable.
(2) Hoist vehicle or support on jack stands.
(3) Remove parts as necessary to replace high
pressure headlamp washer hose. When disconnecting
hose, press down firmly on latch at headlamp washer
pump motor and telescopic washer assembly and pull
apart.
INSTALLATION
The headlamp washer hose is a special high pres-
sure hose with specific fittings, and must be replaced
as a unit.
(1) Install the new high pressure headlamp
washer hose assembly. Push fitting on until a snap is
heard.
(2) Install the parts that were removed to replace
high pressure headlamp washer hose.
(3) Remove vehicle from hoist or jack stands.
(4) Connect the battery negative cable.
(5) Verify vehicle and system operation.
HEADLAMP WASHER PUMP
MOTOR - EXPORT
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative
cable.
(2) Remove the engine fresh air housing inside the
engine compartment (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/AIR
INTAKE SYSTEM/AIR CLEANER HOUSING -
REMOVAL).
(3) Disconnect the washer hose at the in-line con-
nector forward of the cowl grille so that the in-line
connector remains with the washer hose from the
fresh air plenum.
(4) Disconnect the washer hose from the hose clip
located on the front fender side shield.
(5) Remove the filler tube screw.
(6) Hoist and support vehicle on hoist or jack
stands.
(7) Remove the right front wheel and tire assembly
(Refer to 22 - TIRES/WHEELS - REMOVAL).
(8) Disconnect the left right front wheelhouse
splash shield and move aside (Refer to 23 - BODY/
EXTERIOR/WHEELHOUSE SPLASH SHIELD -
REMOVAL).
RSWIPERS/WASHERS8R-13
HEADLAMP WASHERS - EXPORT (Continued)
ProCarManuals.com
WARNING: ON VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH AIR-
BAGS, REFER TO RESTRAINTS BEFORE ATTEMPT-
ING ANY STEERING WHEEL, STEERING COLUMN,
SEAT OR INSTRUMENT PANEL COMPONENT DIAG-
NOSIS OR SERVICE. FAILURE TO TAKE THE
PROPER PRECAUTIONS COULD RESULT IN ACCI-
DENTAL AIRBAG DEPLOYMENT AND POSSIBLE
PERSONAL INJURY.
(1) Check the fused B(+) fuse in the Integrated
Power Module (IPM). If OK, go to Step 2. If not OK,
repair the shorted circuit or component as required
and replace the faulty fuse.
(2) Check for battery voltage at the fused B(+) fuse
in the IPM. If OK, go to Step 3. If not OK, repair the
open fused B(+) circuit to the IPM fuse as required.
(3)
Open the power outlet door. Check for continuity
between the inside circumference of the power outlet
receptacle and a good ground. There should be continu-
ity. If OK, go to Step 4. If not OK, go to Step 5.
(4) Check for battery voltage at the insulated con-
tact located at the back of the power outlet recepta-
cle. If not OK, go to Step 5.
(5) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative
cable. Remove the appropriate bezel. Check for conti-
nuity between the ground circuit cavity of the power
outlet wire harness connector and a good ground.
There should be continuity. If OK, go to Step 6. If not
OK, repair the open ground circuit to ground as
required.
(6) Connect the battery negative cable. Check for
battery voltage at the fused B(+) circuit cavity of the
power outlet wire harness connector. If OK, replace
the faulty power outlet receptacle. If not OK, repair
the open fused B(+) circuit to the IPM fuse as
required.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative
cable.
(2) Look inside and note position of the retaining
bosses (Fig. 5).
(3) Using external snap ring pliers with 90 degree
tips. Insert pliers with tips against bosses and
squeeze forcing bosses out of base.
(4) Pull out the base through mounting ring by
gently rocking pliers. A tool can be made to do the
same. Refer to (Fig. 6).
(5) Disconnect the base wires.
(6) Set base aside. Remove light ring and discon-
nect wire.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the mounting ring on the instrument
panel and feed the wires through the ring. Index the
cap and the mounting ring with the index tab at the9 o'clock position to the key in the instrument panel.
Install the ring.
(2) Connect the wires to the base. Orientate the
base alignment rib at the 11 o'clock position to mate
the groove in the mounting ring to the base.
(3) Push the base into the bezel until it locks in
place.
(4) Check operation of outlet or element and
install the 12 volt outlet cap.
Fig. 5 Outlet Base Removal
1 - RETAINING BOSSES-ENGAGE PLIERS HERE
2 - PARTIALLY REMOVED
3 - EXTERNAL SNAP-RING PLIERS
4 - PULL BASE OUT-THROUGH MOUNTING RING
Fig. 6 Tool For Outlet Removal
1 - 2.5MM (3/32 INS.)
2 - WELD
3 - 100MM (4 INS.)
4 - 22.25 TO 22.45MM (7/8 TO 57/64 INS.)
8W - 97 - 6 8W-97 POWER DISTRIBUTION SYSTEMRS
POWER OUTLET (Continued)
ProCarManuals.com
(3) Remove torque converter or clutch housing
cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil.
Use a black light to check for the oil leak. If a leak is
present in this area, remove transmission for further
inspection.
(a) Circular spray pattern generally indicates
seal leakage or crankshaft damage.
(b) Where leakage tends to run straight down,
possible causes are a porous block, oil gallery cup
plug, bedplate to cylinder block mating surfaces
and seal bore. See proper repair procedures for
these items.
(4) If no leaks are detected, pressurize the crank-
case as previously described.
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
(5) If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the
crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is
detected between the crankshaft and seal while
slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the
crankshaft seal surface is damaged. The seal area on
the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches
that can be polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft
polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks and
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is especially
machined to complement the function of the rear oil
seal.
(6) For bubbles that remain steady with shaft
rotation, no further inspection can be done until dis-
assembled.
(7) After the oil leak root cause and appropriate
corrective action have been identified, replace compo-
nent(s) as necessary.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CYLINDER
COMPRESSION PRESSURE TEST
The results of a cylinder compression pressure test
can be utilized to diagnose several engine malfunc-
tions.
Ensure the battery is completely charged and the
engine starter motor is in good operating condition.
Otherwise the indicated compression pressures may
not be valid for diagnosis purposes.
(1) Check engine oil level and add oil if necessary.
(2) Drive the vehicle until engine reaches normal
operating temperature. Select a route free from traf-
fic and other forms of congestion, observe all traffic
laws, and accelerate through the gears several times
briskly.
(3) Remove all spark plugs from engine. As spark
plugs are being removed, check electrodes for abnor-
mal firing indicators fouled, hot, oily, etc. Record cyl-
inder number of spark plug for future reference.(4) Remove the Auto Shutdown (ASD) relay from
the PDC.
(5) Be sure throttle blade is fully open during the
compression check.
(6) Insert compression gauge adaptor Special Tool
8116 or the equivalent, into the #1 spark plug hole in
cylinder head. Connect the 0±500 psi (Blue) pressure
transducer (Special Tool CH7059) with cable adap-
tors to the DRBIIIt. For Special Tool identification,
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE - SPECIAL TOOLS).
(7) Crank engine until maximum pressure is
reached on gauge. Record this pressure as #1 cylin-
der pressure.
(8) Repeat the previous step for all remaining cyl-
inders.
(9) Compression should not be less than 689 kPa
(100 psi) and not vary more than 25 percent from cyl-
inder to cylinder.
(10) If one or more cylinders have abnormally low
compression pressures, repeat the compression test.
(11) If the same cylinder or cylinders repeat an
abnormally low reading on the second compression
test, it could indicate the existence of a problem in
the cylinder in question.The recommended com-
pression pressures are to be used only as a
guide to diagnosing engine problems. An engine
should not be disassembled to determine the
cause of low compression unless some malfunc-
tion is present.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CYLINDER
COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE TEST
The combustion pressure leakage test provides an
accurate means for determining engine condition.
Combustion pressure leakage testing will detect:
²Exhaust and intake valve leaks (improper seat-
ing).
²Leaks between adjacent cylinders or into water
jacket.
²Any causes for combustion/compression pressure
loss.
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE PRESSURE CAP
WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER PRESSURE
BECAUSE SERIOUS BURNS FROM COOLANT CAN
OCCUR.
Check the coolant level and fill as required. DO
NOT install the pressure cap.
Start and operate the engine until it attains nor-
mal operating temperature, then turn the engine
OFF.
Clean spark plug recesses with compressed air.
Remove the spark plugs.
Remove the oil filler cap.
Remove the air cleaner.
RSENGINE 2.4L9-9
ENGINE 2.4L (Continued)
ProCarManuals.com
(3) Remove torque converter or clutch housing
cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil.
Use a black light to check for the oil leak. If a leak is
present in this area, remove transmission for further
inspection.
(a) Circular spray pattern generally indicates
seal leakage or crankshaft damage.
(b) Where leakage tends to run straight down,
possible causes are a porous block, oil gallery cup
plug, bedplate to cylinder block mating surfaces
and seal bore. See proper repair procedures for
these items.
(4) If no leaks are detected, pressurize the crank-
case as previously described.
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
(5) If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the
crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is
detected between the crankshaft and seal while
slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the
crankshaft seal surface is damaged. The seal area on
the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches
that can be polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft
polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks and
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is especially
machined to complement the function of the rear oil
seal.
(6) For bubbles that remain steady with shaft
rotation, no further inspection can be done until dis-
assembled.
(7) After the oil leak root cause and appropriate
corrective action have been identified, replace compo-
nent(s) as necessary.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CYLINDER
COMPRESSION PRESSURE TEST
The results of a cylinder compression pressure test
can be utilized to diagnose several engine malfunc-
tions.
Ensure the battery is completely charged and the
engine starter motor is in good operating condition.
Otherwise the indicated compression pressures may
not be valid for diagnosis purposes.
(1) Check engine oil level and add oil if necessary.
(2) Drive the vehicle until engine reaches normal
operating temperature. Select a route free from traf-
fic and other forms of congestion, observe all traffic
laws, and accelerate through the gears several times
briskly.
(3) Remove all spark plugs from engine. As spark
plugs are being removed, check electrodes for abnor-
mal firing indicators fouled, hot, oily, etc. Record cyl-
inder number of spark plug for future reference.(4) Remove the Auto Shutdown (ASD) relay from
the PDC.
(5) Be sure throttle blade is fully open during the
compression check.
(6) Insert compression gauge adaptor Special Tool
8116 or the equivalent, into the #1 spark plug hole in
cylinder head. Connect the 0±500 psi (Blue) pressure
transducer (Special Tool CH7059) with cable adap-
tors to the DRBIIIt. For Special Tool identification,
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE - SPECIAL TOOLS).
(7) Crank engine until maximum pressure is
reached on gauge. Record this pressure as #1 cylin-
der pressure.
(8) Repeat the previous step for all remaining cyl-
inders.
(9) Compression should not be less than 689 kPa
(100 psi) and not vary more than 25 percent from cyl-
inder to cylinder.
(10) If one or more cylinders have abnormally low
compression pressures, repeat the compression test.
(11) If the same cylinder or cylinders repeat an
abnormally low reading on the second compression
test, it could indicate the existence of a problem in
the cylinder in question.The recommended com-
pression pressures are to be used only as a
guide to diagnosing engine problems. An engine
should not be disassembled to determine the
cause of low compression unless some malfunc-
tion is present.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CYLINDER
COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE TEST
The combustion pressure leakage test provides an
accurate means for determining engine condition.
Combustion pressure leakage testing will detect:
²Exhaust and intake valve leaks (improper seat-
ing).
²Leaks between adjacent cylinders or into water
jacket.
²Any causes for combustion/compression pressure
loss.
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE PRESSURE CAP
WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER PRESSURE
BECAUSE SERIOUS BURNS FROM COOLANT CAN
OCCUR.
Check the coolant level and fill as required. DO
NOT install the pressure cap.
Start and operate the engine until it attains nor-
mal operating temperature, then turn the engine
OFF.
Clean spark plug recesses with compressed air.
Remove the spark plugs.
Remove the oil filler cap.
Remove the air cleaner.
RSENGINE 3.3/3.8L9-83
ENGINE 3.3/3.8L (Continued)
ProCarManuals.com
INSPECTION
WARNING: THE NORMAL OPERATING TEMPERA-
TURE OF THE EXHAUST SYSTEM IS VERY HIGH.
THEREFORE, NEVER ATTEMPT TO SERVICE ANY
PART OF THE EXHAUST SYSTEM UNTIL IT IS
COOLED. SPECIAL CARE SHOULD BE TAKEN
WHEN WORKING NEAR THE CATALYTIC CON-
VERTER. THE TEMPERATURE OF THE CONVERTER
RISES TO A HIGH LEVEL AFTER A SHORT PERIOD
OF ENGINE OPERATION TIME.
Check catalytic converter for a flow restriction.
(Refer to 11 - EXHAUST SYSTEM - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING) Exhaust System Restriction Check
for procedure.
Visually inspect the catalytic converter element by
using a borescope or equivalent. Remove oxygen sen-
sor(s) and insert borescope. If borescope is not avail-
able, remove converter and inspect element using a
flashlight. Inspect element for cracked or melted sub-
strate.
NOTE: Before replacing a catalytic converter, deter-
mine the root cause of failure. Most catalytic con-
verter failures are caused by air, fuel or ignition
problems. (Refer to Appropriate Diagnostic Informa-
tion) for test procedures.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position new gasket onto the manifold flange
and install catalytic converter (Fig. 5). Tighten fas-
teners to 37 N´m (325 in. lbs.).
NOTE: Be careful not to twist or kink the oxygen
sensor wires.
(2) Install (if removed) and connect the down-
stream oxygen sensor (Fig. 4).
(3) Install the muffler/resonator assembly. (Refer
to 11 - EXHAUST SYSTEM/MUFFLER - INSTALLA-
TION)
CROSS-OVER PIPE - 3.3/3.8L
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Remove the fasteners attaching the left bank
manifold connection to cross-over pipe (Fig. 6).
(3) Raise vehicle and remove the left front wheel.
(4) Access the lower right bank pipe connection
fastener through the left front wheel opening using a
long ratchet extension. Loosen and remove the lower
fastener.(5) Remove the upper right bank pipe connection
fastener by accessing though the catalytic converter
floor pan tunnel.
(6) Lower the vehicle.
(7) Remove the cross-over pipe (Fig. 6).
(8) Remove gaskets and discard (Fig. 6).
INSTALLATION
(1) Position cross-over pipe to the manifold connec-
tions (Fig. 6).
(2) Position new gasket on left bank (front) pipe
connection and loosely install fasteners (Fig. 6).
(3) Raise the vehicle.
(4) Position new gasket on the right bank pipe con-
nection and install fasteners.
(5) Tighten right bank upper fastener to 41 N´m
(30 ft. lbs.).
(6) Tighten right bank lower fastener to 41 N´m
(30 ft. lbs.) using a long ratchet extension accessing
through the left wheel opening.
(7) Install the left front wheel and lower vehicle.
(8) Tighten the left bank pipe connection fasteners
to 41 N´m (30 ft. lbs.) (Fig. 6).
HEAT SHIELDS
DESCRIPTION
The exhaust system heat shields (Fig. 7), (Fig. 8),
or (Fig. 9) are attached to the under body of the vehi-
cle. On vehicles equipped with All Wheel Dive
(AWD), an additional heat shield is mounted to the
catalytic converter.
Fig. 6 CROSS-OVER PIPE
1 - CROSS-OVER PIPE
2 - BOLT
3 - GASKET
4 - FLAG NUT
11 - 6 EXHAUST SYSTEMRS
CATALYTIC CONVERTER (Continued)
ProCarManuals.com
enter the passenger compartment during high pres-
sure washing or hard driving rain (severe) condi-
tions. Overcompensating on door or glass
adjustments to stop a water leak that occurs under
severe conditions can cause premature seal wear and
excessive closing or latching effort. After completing
a repair, water test vehicle to verify leak has stopped
before returning vehicle to use.
VISUAL INSPECTION BEFORE WATER LEAK TESTS
Verify that floor and body plugs are in place, body
drains are clear, and body components are properly
aligned and sealed. If component alignment or seal-
ing is necessary, refer to the appropriate section of
this group for proper procedures.
WATER LEAK TESTS
WARNING: DO NOT USE ELECTRIC SHOP LIGHTS
OR TOOLS IN WATER TEST AREA. PERSONAL
INJURY CAN RESULT.
When the conditions causing a water leak have
been determined, simulate the conditions as closely
as possible.
²If a leak occurs with the vehicle parked in a
steady light rain, flood the leak area with an open-
ended garden hose.
²If a leak occurs while driving at highway speeds
in a steady rain, test the leak area with a reasonable
velocity stream or fan spray of water. Direct the
spray in a direction comparable to actual conditions.
²If a leak occurs when the vehicle is parked on an
incline, hoist the end or side of the vehicle to simu-
late this condition. This method can be used when
the leak occurs when the vehicle accelerates, stops or
turns. If the leak occurs on acceleration, hoist the
front of the vehicle. If the leak occurs when braking,
hoist the back of the vehicle. If the leak occurs on left
turns, hoist the left side of the vehicle. If the leak
occurs on right turns, hoist the right side of the vehi-
cle. For hoisting recommendations (Refer to LUBRI-
CATION & MAINTENANCE/HOISTING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
WATER LEAK DETECTION
To detect a water leak point-of-entry, do a water
test and watch for water tracks or droplets forming
on the inside of the vehicle. If necessary, remove inte-
rior trim covers or panels to gain visual access to the
leak area. If the hose cannot be positioned without
being held, have someone help do the water test.
Some water leaks must be tested for a considerable
length of time to become apparent. When a leak
appears, find the highest point of the water track or
drop. The highest point usually will show the point of
entry. After leak point has been found, repair theleak and water test to verify that the leak has
stopped.
Locating the entry point of water that is leaking
into a cavity between panels can be difficult. The
trapped water may splash or run from the cavity,
often at a distance from the entry point. Most water
leaks of this type become apparent after accelerating,
stopping, turning, or when on an incline.
MIRROR INSPECTION METHOD
When a leak point area is visually obstructed, use
a suitable mirror to gain visual access. A mirror can
also be used to deflect light to a limited-access area
to assist in locating a leak point.
BRIGHT LIGHT LEAK TEST METHOD
Some water leaks in the luggage compartment can
be detected without water testing. Position the vehi-
cle in a brightly lit area. From inside the darkened
luggage compartment inspect around seals and body
seams. If necessary, have a helper direct a drop light
over the suspected leak areas around the luggage
compartment. If light is visible through a normally
sealed location, water could enter through the open-
ing.
PRESSURIZED LEAK TEST METHOD
When a water leak into the passenger compart-
ment cannot be detected by water testing, pressurize
the passenger compartment and soap test exterior of
the vehicle. To pressurize the passenger compart-
ment, close all doors and windows, start engine, and
set heater control to high blower in HEAT position. If
engine can not be started, connect a charger to the
battery to ensure adequate voltage to the blower.
With interior pressurized, apply dish detergent solu-
tion to suspected leak area on the exterior of the
vehicle. Apply detergent solution with spray device or
soft bristle brush. If soap bubbles occur at a body
seam, joint, seal or gasket, the leak entry point could
be at that location.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - WIND NOISE
Wind noise is the result of most air leaks. Air leaks
can be caused by poor sealing, improper body compo-
nent alignment, body seam porosity, or missing plugs
in the engine compartment or door hinge pillar areas.
All body sealing points should be airtight in normal
driving conditions. Moving sealing surfaces will not
always seal airtight under all conditions. At times,
side glass or door seals will allow wind noise to be
noticed in the passenger compartment during high
cross winds. Over compensating on door or glass
adjustments to stop wind noise that occurs under
severe conditions can cause premature seal wear and
excessive closing or latching effort. After a repair pro-
23 - 2 BODYRS
BODY (Continued)
ProCarManuals.com
PAINT CODE
DESCRIPTION
Exterior vehicle body colors are identified on the
Body Code plate. (Refer to VEHICLE DATA/VEHI-
CLE INFORMATION/BODY CODE PLATE -
DESCRIPTION). The paint code is also identified on
the Vehicle Safety Certification Label which is
located on the drivers door shut face. The first digit
of the paint code listed on the vehicle indicates the
sequence of application, i.e.: P = primary coat, Q =
secondary coat. The codes listed in the Color Code
Chart are used for manufacturing purposes.
PAINTED TOUCH-UP
DESCRIPTION
When a painted metal surface has been scratched
or chipped, it should be touched up as soon as possi-
ble to avoid corrosion. For best results, use Mopart
Scratch Filler/Primer, Touch Up Paints and Clear Top
Coat. (Refer to VEHICLE DATA/VEHICLE INFOR-
MATION/BODY CODE PLATE - DESCRIPTION).
WARNING: USE A OSHA APPROVED BREATHING
MASK WHEN SPRAYING PAINT OR SOLVENTS IN A
CONFINED AREA. PERSONAL INJURY CAN
RESULT.
TOUCH UP PROCEDURE
(1) Scrape loose paint and corrosion from inside
scratch or chip.
(2) Clean affected area with MopartTar/Road Oil
Remover, and allow to dry.
(3) Fill the inside of the scratch or chip with a coat
of filler/primer. Do not overlap primer onto good sur-
face finish. The applicator brush should be wetenough to puddle-fill the defect without running. Do
not stroke brush applicator on body surface. Allow
the filler/primer to dry hard.
(4) Cover the filler/primer with color touch up
paint. Do not overlap touch up color onto the original
color coat around the scratch or chip. Butt the new
color to the original color, if possible. Do not stroke
applicator brush on body surface. Allow touch up
paint to dry hard.
(5) On vehicles without clearcoat, the touch up
color can be lightly finesse sanded (1500 grit) and
polished with rubbing compound.
(6) On vehicles with clearcoat, apply clear top coat
to touch up paint with the same technique as
described in Step 4. Allow clear top coat to dry hard.
If desired, Step 5 can be performed on clear top coat.
WARNING: AVOID PROLONGED SKIN CONTACT
WITH PETROLEUM OR ALCOHOL ± BASED CLEAN-
ING SOLVENTS. PERSONAL INJURY CAN RESULT.
FINESSE SANDING/BUFFING &
POLISHING
DESCRIPTION
Minor acid etching, orange peel, or smudging in
clearcoat or single-stage finishes can be reduced with
light finesse sanding, hand buffing, and polishing.If
the finish has been finesse sanded in the past,
it cannot be repeated. Finesse sanding opera-
tion should be performed by a trained automo-
tive paint technician.
CAUTION: Do not remove clearcoat finish, if
equipped. Basecoat paint must retain clearcoat for
durability.
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